Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Yang Du, Surrealist Fashion Designer.

No rest for the wicked or the socially and politically minded, seek this week ends with another action packed weekend with the anarchist bookfair and the 350: International Day of Climate Action as well as plenty to keep you occupied during the week.

October Wind Farm copy
All Illustrations by Hannah Lewis

Positive Change
Tuesday 20th October 2009 ?

Positive Change is a careers seminar for people interested in environmental, order conservation and sustainable development careers. You’ll also learn about the fair trade movement and just where the opportunities lie.

Venue: SOAS, erectile University of London
Time: 5:30pm
Website: http://www.forum3.co.uk/positivechange/

Wild Law in Action at Gaia Foundation
Wednesday 21st October 2009

A talk held at the Gaia Foundation by Polly Higgins about a journey to the United Nations to deliver the ‘hard law’ – the Universal Declaration of Planetary Rights. The rolling out of the ‘soft law’ – the Universal Declaration of All Beings, more commonly referred to as the Peoples’ Declaration will also be highlighted.
?
Venue: Gaia Foundation, 6 Heathgate Place, Agincourt Road, London NW3 2NU?
Time: 6.30pm?
Tickets: £10
Website: http://www.gaiafoundation.org/

Climate Change Academy
Wednesday 21st October 2009

A one day workshop for all the family to help encourage families to learn more about living low carbon lives as well as give them handy advice on how to save energy in their own home. The workshop is free and includes lunch.

Venue: The Window 13 Windsor Street
Time: 10am until 3.30pm
Website: www.energysavingtrust.org.uk

October Cycling copy

Get involved in Guerilla Gardening
Thursday 22nd October and Saturday 24th October

Help to enhance a community nature garden, create a nature trail and plant a monster hedge in Markfield Park, N15. The group meets fortnightly Thursdays and monthly Saturdays. Wear appropriate clothing for outdoor work and weather conditions.

Venue: Markfield Park cafe, N15?Located on River Lee, between Tottenham Hale station and Springfield Park, just off Seven Sisters High Road.
Date: Thursday -?Starts 1-4pm, & fourtnightly Saturdays -?2-4pm

A workshop on Pedal-powered generators
Saturday 24th October

Want to make your own emissions-free electricity, independent of fossil fuels and expensive solar arrays and wind turbines? Discover how to use your own bike as part of a small power station, capable of powering computers, stereos, TVs and other small household appliances. This method makes a great use of your bike when you’re not riding it around town. In just one day find out all you need to know to assemble a bike-powered generator. The classroom will be bike-powered throughout the day.

Venue: Hackney City Farm, London
Address: http://www.lowimpact.org/

Recycling October copy copy

Anarchist Bookfair 2009
Saturday 24th October 2009 ?

For all your anarchist requirements: books, pamphlets, t-shirts, videos, badges, posters and the rest. Veggies will be doing vegan food from outside the venue; a huge selection of groups and individuals will be holding talks, sure to be a very informative day.

Venue: Queen Mary & Westfield College, Mile End Rd. E1 4NS
Time: 10-7pm
Website: http://www.anarchistbookfair.org/

March Against the War in Afghanistan
Saturday 24th October 2009

?The march is called by Stop the War Coalition, CND and BMI?.The march will be lead by anti-war military families & soldiers and will include speakers Peter Brierley, who recently refused to shake Tony Blair’s hand because it had his sons blood on it; Lance Cpl Joe Glenton, serving soldier facing court martial for refusing to return to Afghanistan and George Galloway MP; musician and poet

Assemble 12 noon Hyde Park: March to Trafalgar Square
Website: http://www.stopwar.org.uk/

The Bigger Picture: Festival of Interdependence
Saturday 24th October 2009

Festival of Interdependence is a free interactive, living exhibition staged in the dramatic post-industrial setting of the Bargehouse on London’s South Bank. There is 3 floors of talks, workshops and exhibitions as well as a talk on Copenhagen from 2pm and a report from the swoop at 5pm.
The main exhibition will be opened for one day only. The event coincides with 350: an International Day of Climate Action which aims to highlight the importance of getting back to 350 ppm carbon dioxide he safe limit for humanity.

Time: 10.30 – 19.30
?Venue: Bargehouse, South Bank
Website: http://thebiggerpicture2009.org/

No rest for the wicked or the socially and politically minded, medical this week ends with another action packed weekend with the anarchist bookfair and the 350: International Day of Climate Action as well as plenty to keep you occupied during the week.

October Wind Farm copy
All Illustrations by Hannah Lewis

Positive Change
Tuesday 20th October 2009 ?

Positive Change is a careers seminar for people interested in environmental, visit conservation and sustainable development careers. You’ll also learn about the fair trade movement and just where the opportunities lie.

Venue: SOAS, University of London
Time: 5:30pm
Website: http://www.forum3.co.uk/positivechange/

Wild Law in Action at Gaia Foundation
Wednesday 21st October 2009

A talk held at the Gaia Foundation by Polly Higgins about a journey to the United Nations to deliver the ‘hard law’ – the Universal Declaration of Planetary Rights. The rolling out of the ‘soft law’ – the Universal Declaration of All Beings, more commonly referred to as the Peoples’ Declaration will also be highlighted.
?
Venue: Gaia Foundation, 6 Heathgate Place, Agincourt Road, London NW3 2NU?
Time: 6.30pm?
Tickets: £10
Website: http://www.gaiafoundation.org/

Climate Change Academy
Wednesday 21st October 2009

A one day workshop for all the family to help encourage families to learn more about living low carbon lives as well as give them handy advice on how to save energy in their own home. The workshop is free and includes lunch.

Venue: The Window 13 Windsor Street
Time: 10am until 3.30pm
Website: www.energysavingtrust.org.uk

October Cycling copy

Get involved in Guerilla Gardening
Thursday 22nd October and Saturday 24th October

Help to enhance a community nature garden, create a nature trail and plant a monster hedge in Markfield Park, N15. The group meets fortnightly Thursdays and monthly Saturdays. Wear appropriate clothing for outdoor work and weather conditions.

Venue: Markfield Park cafe, N15?Located on River Lee, between Tottenham Hale station and Springfield Park, just off Seven Sisters High Road.
Date: Thursday -?Starts 1-4pm, & fourtnightly Saturdays -?2-4pm

A workshop on Pedal-powered generators
Saturday 24th October

Want to make your own emissions-free electricity, independent of fossil fuels and expensive solar arrays and wind turbines? Discover how to use your own bike as part of a small power station, capable of powering computers, stereos, TVs and other small household appliances. This method makes a great use of your bike when you’re not riding it around town. In just one day find out all you need to know to assemble a bike-powered generator. The classroom will be bike-powered throughout the day.

Venue: Hackney City Farm, London
Address: http://www.lowimpact.org/

Recycling October copy copy

Anarchist Bookfair 2009
Saturday 24th October 2009 ?

For all your anarchist requirements: books, pamphlets, t-shirts, videos, badges, posters and the rest. Veggies will be doing vegan food from outside the venue; a huge selection of groups and individuals will be holding talks, sure to be a very informative day.

Venue: Queen Mary & Westfield College, Mile End Rd. E1 4NS
Time: 10-7pm
Website: http://www.anarchistbookfair.org/

March Against the War in Afghanistan
Saturday 24th October 2009

?The march is called by Stop the War Coalition, CND and BMI?.The march will be lead by anti-war military families & soldiers and will include speakers Peter Brierley, who recently refused to shake Tony Blair’s hand because it had his sons blood on it; Lance Cpl Joe Glenton, serving soldier facing court martial for refusing to return to Afghanistan and George Galloway MP; musician and poet

Assemble 12 noon Hyde Park: March to Trafalgar Square
Website: http://www.stopwar.org.uk/

The Bigger Picture: Festival of Interdependence
Saturday 24th October 2009

Festival of Interdependence is a free interactive, living exhibition staged in the dramatic post-industrial setting of the Bargehouse on London’s South Bank. There is 3 floors of talks, workshops and exhibitions as well as a talk on Copenhagen from 2pm and a report from the swoop at 5pm.
The main exhibition will be opened for one day only. The event coincides with 350: an International Day of Climate Action which aims to highlight the importance of getting back to 350 ppm carbon dioxide he safe limit for humanity.

Time: 10.30 – 19.30
?Venue: Bargehouse, South Bank
Website: http://thebiggerpicture2009.org/

yangdu4

Amelia’s Magazine interviews CSM MA Womenswear Graduate Yang Du about the research and process behind producing a runway collection. Unsurprisingly for one who has studied with Vivienne Westwood, ailment Giles Deacon and John Galliano and whose inspirations are Victor & Rolf and Castelbajac, cialis 40mg Yang Du’s collections are the epitome of surrealist fashion design.

Yang Du presented her SS10 collection as part of On|Off (see previous Amelia’s Magazine coverage at London Fashion Week). The collection of bold coloured oversized dresses are an eclectic interpretation of everyday clothes, this whilst representing the possibility of fun to be had when adorned in the following garmets.

yangdu2

The press release mentions that her “previous two collections are like my travel diaries…” Subsequently this interview started with the following question:

What was the inspiration behind the new collection and did it involve an aspect of your recent travels?

In April I visited Ecuador for three weeks; I spent a few days in the rainforest and hung out with the local children. We sang, danced and drew together, it was wonderfully peaceful. Those kids live in very basic condition; they all were these over-sized T-shirts which were left by previous visitors. These discarded and re-used t-shirts were the starting point of my collection. They are fun designs that I see people wearing.

How was London Fashion Week as part of On|Off?

It was a great experience to work with OnlOff and they have been incredibly supportive through the whole process of Fashion Week, I was able to go to Paris as of the On|Off showroom. There has been great encouragement to work with someone who are special and inspirational to you.

How was Paris?

The high light for me would be going to the JCDC Show, and meeting Castelbajac back stage.

yangdu5

Can you expand on the influence of Franco Moschino for me?

I love the idea of fashion sending a message into life, the possibility of it it making a statement.

How did the exhibition Soho happen?

A friend of mine Tian Tian Zhu, a sound artist who runs the organisation TIEN, who I had met a few times accidently as we both went to the same gigs, the last being Yoko Ono. We started to talk about working together at the some point in the future and now she is curating my solo exhibition at Assembly Room, it is a very sweet place.

yangdu

You were previously a Painter, studying at Central Saint Martins, how was the transition to Fashion Design?

Like many designers I trained at art school first, but I have always been interested in fashion. My mum studied pattern cutting, and made all my clothes when I was young.

Where did the ideas of the hats in the SS10 Collection spring from?

I was in the flower market, taking photos of everyday people and there was suddenly a moment where carton images appeared in my head. Everyone became a different kind of plant according to their look and what they wearing. It is from this place of imagination, that the cacti hats came from.

yangdu7

May I ask about your design ideology?

My ideology… I am very open-minded to new things, and mostly, look at things from a very different angle. I often go on trips, where I take lots of photos and meet lots of people. When I come back to London, I always have so much in my mind, some of them like stories which I really want to share through the clothes I design.

yangdu6

How did you decide to produce your designs through knitwear?

It was the right material to work with at the time according to the concept. The use of wool produced the right mood for that collection. I want to find a media that translates my painting without literally knowing what it is that is being translated.

yangdu3

Yang Du currently has an exhibition titled “Falling in Love is a Risk” at the Assembly Rooms in Soho, I thoughly recommend a trip that provides the opportunity to view her sketchbooks and most recent designs. The exhibition runs until November 27 2009.

yangdu8

All photographs (except the last image) are from the SS10 collection: Mr Right Town. Look book by Bella Howard and styled by Grace Woodward, make-up, Andrew Gallimore, hair, Bianca Tuovi and was produced by Platform

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,Falling in Love is a Risk, ,Giles, ,JCDC, ,John Galliano, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff, ,painting, ,surrealism, ,surrealist, ,The Assembly Rooms, ,TIEN, ,Victor & Rolf, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Yang Du

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with award-winning typeface designer and Royal College of Art lecturer Henrik Kubel


Fifteen typefaces designed for commercial use, seek 2010 (A2-TYPE, doctor London)

On a bitingly chilly but sunny Saturday afternoon, sildenafil I sauntered down to the A2/SW/HK design studio in the heart of Hoxton to meet Henrik Kubel, one half of the talented A2/SW/HK duo. With a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it entrance, the studio is housed on the third floor of an old textile warehouse, exuding understated coolness. On entering, I feel as if I have reached some kind of design nirvana where the huge windows splash a radiant bright light onto the pristine white walls, furniture and Macs. I quickly glance around the room to see work tops sprawled with rolled up papers and intricate-looking sketches; a vintage Remington Standard typewriter nestles comfortably amongst a collection of art titles on the glossy white shelves – the mother of type. Standing tall and smart-nonchalantly dressed in a well-fitted navy blue jacket with a thin red trimming, off-white shirt and faded blue jeans, Kubel looks picture-perfect in his surroundings.


Zadie Smith: On Beauty, 2005—06 (Penguin Books, New York); hardback and paperback cover designs including bespoke typefaces

For typography and branding enthusiasts, viewing the latest A2/SW/HK typeface collection that recently launched online is the equivalent of setting a restrained, hyperactive child free in a sweet shop. Spanning over 15 years of work, the array of fonts range from the delicate, swirling Zadie, commissioned by Penguin Books New York for the US version of the novel On Beauty by Zadie Smith (hence the name), to the heavier, more robust Impacto, which cuts a dashing and authorative figure, as its name suggests. Similar to walking into a department store to choose an appropriate outfit for a function, A2/SW/HK have meticulously crafted a typeface for every occasion, depending on the message and feeling the consumer would like to convey.


Impacto typeface, 2010 (A2-TYPE, London); bespoke typefaces

The impressive collection comprises of 15 typefaces, many of which have multiple weights (fonts), with each font containing 256 characters. Overall, there are 53 fonts to marvel at totaling 13,568 individual glyphs (these include all members of the alphabet, diacritics, numbers, symbols and punctuations).


Psycho Buildings, 2008 (Hayward Gallery, London); art direction, bespoke typefaces and design

The typefaces were previously designed for bespoke projects across various media platforms including print, screen and interiors, however, the launch of the collection in their entirety means that, for the first time ever, the fonts are available for general use. “The typefaces can be used for any type of advertising now; even by two different fashion brands if they want,” says Kubel. “A typeface can work for many people in different ways, depending on who the creative director is and how they choose to use it. You’d be surprised at how many times a single typeface can be used to present different meanings for different jobs.”



Lisson Gallery, 2008 (Lisson Gallery, London); redesign of existing identity

Although A2/SW/HK is essentially a two-man strong team, don’t be fooled by their size. Formed in 2000, the pair have worked with a number of leading national and international clients, providing design consultancy, art direction, brand identity, website design and bespoke typography. Their recent client list includes Hayward Gallery, Lisson Gallery, Tate, Design Museum London, Phaidon Press, Faber & Faber, Penguin Press New York, Royal Mail, Danish Post, Vogue UK and MoMA. “I don’t see ourselves in the category of a small business,” says Kubel. “We are a creative design studio and it doesn’t matter whether we are ten people or two people. If you look at big businesses, they might have a work force of fifteen people but from a creative point of view there’s only two. We’re very self-sufficient.”


Fabric of Fashion, 2001 (British Council, London); bespoke typefaces and design

Born in Denmark, Kubel was exposed to art from an early age (his mother was an artist and encouraged painting) and developed a passion for type at the age of eleven when he discovered graffiti. In 1997, after graduating from Denmark’s Design School in Copenhagen, Kubel moved to London to do his Masters at the Royal College of Art where he met his design and business partner Scott Williams. “When Scott and I graduated, we just thought ‘lets do our own thing’ which is ridiculous now come to think of it. We had no network, no clients, no idea of anything – all we had was our creativity.” Yet following their graduation, with minimal resources, their gritty determination and hard work led to them being selected by highly acclaimed visual communications magazine Creative Review to feature in their annual ‘Creative Futures’ show, an initiative showcasing the most promising graduates to watch from across the country.


Radical Fashion, 2001 (V&A Museum, London); art direction, bespoke typefaces and design

Although Kubel downplays his and Williams’ achievement, attributing their selection by Creative Review to ‘just luck’, it is clear the raw talent that the duo possessed was enough to capture the attention of a representative at the British Council who subsequently signed them up to their first ever commission. “We ran a very successful project called Fabric of Fashion in 2001 and at the opening of the show, we met one of the editors who worked at the V&A so landed our next stint, which was about radical fashion – it was all very exclusive.” Post-radical fashion, more commissions ensued and as word got out of the duo’s work and their creative circles widened, their client list began to grow.


Samuel Beckett, complete works, 2009—2010 (Faber & Faber, London); cover design & bespoke typefaces

With an eclectic (and damn cool) portfolio which includes the cover design and bespoke typefaces for the complete works of Samuel Beckett (2009-2010; commissioned by Faber and Faber), sheet and typeface designs for Ian Fleming’s James Bond limited edition stamps (2008; commissioned by Royal Mail UK), and the ‘Reading Room’ exhibition design and print campaign for the Turner Prize Exhibition (2002-2007; commissioned by Tate Britain), which also made the front page of The Independent, to name a few, it is a collaboration with Margaret Calvert, an old tutor of Kubel’s at the Royal College of Art, on the New Rail Alphabet, which he names as being one of his career highlights. A revival of the British Rail alphabet originally designed by Calvert in 1965, which was used nationwide with British Rail, BAA and the NHS, was digitised, updated and re-launched in 2009 with a family of six weights.


New Rail Alphabet, 2009 (A2-TYPE, London); typeface in six weights; designed in close collaboration with Margaret Calvert

In the higher echelons of the graphic design industry, A2/SW/HK’s work has not gone unnoticed. They have picked up a plethora of global accolades along the way including awards from The International Society of Typographers, British Design & Art Directors and Art Directors Club of New York. In 2007, Kubel and Williams received recognition as members of the prestigious Alliance Graphique Internationale, which is a testament to years of tireless dedication to their craft, talent and skill.

Despite a well-decorated mantelpiece, complacency is not something that festers within the fabric of Kubel’s work ethic. “We may have achieved a lot but it doesn’t get any easier. You’re always judged by your last piece of work and I’m worried about looking back at my career and not being happy with the work I’ve produced.” He pauses briefly before calmly adding: “But there are only a few pieces that I feel this way about. Overall, I’m pretty happy with the work we’ve done and don’t mind looking back.”


Ian Fleming’s James Bond, 2008 (Royal Mail, UK); miniature sheet design and bespoke typeface

The weekend that I meet Kubel, he is in particularly fine form. Earlier in the week, he received news that he had been awarded a three-year working grant by the Danish Art Foundation, which is one of the most sought for and prestigious working grants awarded by the Nordic country for exceptional quality of artistic production and artistic talent. Kubel has worked almost non-stop over the past decade, and the grant means that he can now afford to invest some time in himself, creating more headspace for new ideas. “I shed a tear when I found out and called my mom; imagine how proud she is?” he says with a content but tired smile.


Turner Prize Exhibition design, 2002—07 (Tate Britain, London); art direction, design and bespoke typeface

In an industry which constantly strives to be ‘achingly hip’ and ‘cutting-edge’, A2/SW/HK’s approach to their work is refreshingly non-pretentious, which is what many of their clients may find appealing. “It’s the thinking and sensibility behind the solutions that makes us strong. I don’t see us as being ‘trendy’ but I don’t see us as being ‘old fashioned’ either – we are probably somewhere in between,” Kubel expresses. “We don’t work to trends, we work on what we feel best complements our clients’ brand values.”



Ergonomics — Real Design, 2009—2010 (Design Museum, London); exhibition identity, applied graphics and brochure including bespoke display typeface; exhibition design by Michael Marriot; photography courtesy of Luke Hayes & A2/SW/HK

In the design and communication industries, the choice of type may have many different connotations and certain typefaces are chosen to represent a brand because they effectively embody the product’s philosophy. This may, in turn, help to explain why we have a certain affinity for some brands more than others. For A2/SW/HK, understanding this psychological aspect of branding is the crux of their trade. “Typography is hugely important. Everything you look at contains letters – it’s used for direction, it’s used for instruction, it’s everywhere. If you can’t read and write you’re lost, aren’t you? That’s what binds society together, it’s communication.”

In a market that already contains 200,000 typefaces, does Kubel think there will be a day when the typeface market will be saturated and there will be no more typefaces to explore? “It’s already saturated but that doesn’t mean you should stop designing. It’s been said many times before, we need new films, new music, new exhibitions, new chairs, new painters and we need new typefaces.”


Summer of Love: Art of the Psychedelic Era, 2005 (Tate Liverpool); art direction, design and bespoke typeface

During the course of the interview, Kubel shows me some of his sketch books, a collection of sketches and scribbles, images torn out of newspapers/magazines, and various other eclectic items which looks like an art project in itself. “It’s very personal but this is how I keep my inspiration and ideas,” he says. As we talk at his spotless white ‘consultation’ table, there is a moment when I mentally take a snapshot of him casually drawing a letter ‘R’ with a graphite pencil on a sheet of paper in front of him. The letter is so perfectly formed that it looks as if it has been produced with a Letraset font style pack, with angles and lines drawn like a ruler has been pressed against their edges – I couldn’t help but comment. “People say that if you spend 10,000 hours on something, you become a master…,” he coolly replies. “…I’ve probably spent 8,000 drawing typefaces.”


A2/SW/HK Process AGI Poster, 2010


Typography Workshop Posters, 2000—06 (Buckinghamshire Chilterns University College); posters (40+ in series)

Kubel strikes me as somewhat of a paradoxical figure, humble yet self-assured, content yet massively ambitious. Speaking of his life prior to London, he says: “I remember when I was at the Danish Design School and we visited the Royal College (of Arts) and I knew I wanted to get in. I knew I wanted to go to London, learn the language and find someone to set up a design studio with. I was very naïve.” Naïve he may have been but in effect, he has achieved everything he set out to do – and then some. Having realised his dream of studying at the Royal College of Arts, he now teaches at the world-renowned institution twice a month. “My students are scarily talented – I am teaching my competitors of the future but I was taught there myself. The Royal College means a lot to me and I will give back as much as I can for as long as I can.”


Cold War Modern, Design 1945—1970, 2008 (V&A Museum, London); art direction and bespoke typefaces

As our interview draws to a close, and my mind is buzzing with more questions about typefaces and I entertain myself with the thought that on some level, humans and fonts are quite similar in relation to their variety, heritage and what they stand for, I ask Kubel which font he thinks would best describe him. He ponders for a moment, cocking his head to one side and glances out of the window onto the terrace, which is beginning to speckle with raindrops, to gather his thoughts. “You’d have to put a lot of typefaces together to describe me; I’m not one, I’m very broad,” he says with a glimmer of mischief in his eye. “I draw all styles, from very eclectic to very bland; it’s me and my personality. I’m a chameleon typeface.”

The new A2/SW/HK typeface collection is now available online and can be found here.

A2/SW/HK have also teamed up with Playtype who will releasing additional fonts from the A2/SW/HK library in December 2010.

Categories ,A2/SW/HK, ,Alliance Graphique Internationale, ,Art Directors Club of New York, ,baa, ,British Design & Art Directors, ,British Rail, ,British Rail Alphabet, ,Creative Futures, ,Creative Review, ,Danish Art Foundation, ,Denmark’s Design School, ,Design Museum London, ,Faber & Faber, ,Hayward Gallery, ,Henrik Kubel, ,Ian Fleming, ,James Bond, ,Kat Phan, ,Lisson Gallery, ,Margaret Calvert, ,New Rail Alphabet, ,NHS, ,On Beauty, ,Penguin Books, ,Phaidon Press, ,Playtype, ,Remington Standard, ,Royal College of Art, ,Royal Mail, ,Scott Williams, ,Tate, ,The Independent, ,The International Society of Typographers, ,Turner Prize Exhibition, ,Vogue UK, ,Zadie Smith

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