Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Alice Palmer


Illustration by Jo Cheung

So after a rollercoaster six days, capsule for sale Menswear Day and London Fashion Week drew to a close with hip-store Kokon To Zai’s label, KTZ, and what would be my final show of this season. I absolutely loved what they did last season, and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d come up with next.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A heavily policed front row meant me and illustrator Gareth took seats on the second, but I managed to get on the end so that my pictures would make it look like I was Frowing all along. I was bloody exhausted and feeling very sorry for myself, and I couldn’t help but wish that they’d just get on with it and stop papping people wearing pig masks. My legs wobbled and I struggled to keep my eyes open, but when the music started and the first look appeared, I quickly forgot my woes.


Illustration by June Chanpoomidole


Illustration by Thomas Leadbetter

Memphis-inspired fashion? I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. A pumpin’ soundtrack blasted from the PA system as gorgeous models (more women than men, but who cares?) sashayed up and down the length of the BFC tent. Stripes were a plenty on figure-hugging dresses with sweetheart necklines that feature extra flaps in that Pop Art/Memphis splatter pattern. Vibrant primary colours made black dresses playful: such a sophisticated, considered collection expertly styled by wonder-styilst Anna Trevelyan.

A whole load of other influences filtered into this power collection – the womenswear referenced power dressing from the 1980s (think Dynasty) and Mondrian’s prints; the menswear also digging up the eighties with (faux!) fur lapels and broad shoulders.


Illustration by Abby Wright

I have to admit, I did prefer the womenswear – it was far more wearable for fashion-forward ladies and it oozed sex appeal with dresses cut above the knee and details in all the right places to emphasise the curves. The menswear featured striped balaclavas topped with pom-poms, acrylic brooches which referenced the womenswear, over-sized imposing puffa jackets and graphic-print trousers. But it’ll be the womenswear that cements Kokontozai’s place as one of London’s hottest design duos.


Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Huge orb-like creations were worn on wrists, picking out patterns from lapels. And, oh, the cuts! Dynamic pieces of fabric were layered onto classic tailored pieces to give them a seriously sexy aesthetic. This was a collection that was playful but sophisticated at the same – a really difficult challenge to pull off.


Illustration by Valerie Pezeron

I loved EVERYTHING about it. I can’t put it into words, so just have a look at the pictures. Oh, and read Amelia’s more comprehensive and articulate review here!

You can see more from Jo Cheung, June Chanpoomidole, Abby Wright and Lesley Barnes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!


Marnie for Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Tigz Rice
Marnie Scarlet for Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Tigz Rice.

Ziad Ghanem‘s Never End, salve Never End, troche Never End was one of those hotly tipped shows that all my contributors were desperate to go to so I was promised performance catwalking at its best. What I hadn’t expected was to land a prime seat right opposite Boy George, looking remarkably svelte next to Daniel Lismore.

Boy George and Daniel Lismore. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Boy George and Daniel Lismore. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

I remember the allure of Karma Chameleon, back when a dodgy video was sufficient accompaniment for pop songs of such genius. Colour by Numbers was actually the VERY FIRST album that I owned, given to me by my aunt on good old cassette tape.

YouTube Preview Image

But then, ah, the show!!! This collection was inspired by a horror video game called Silent Hill and the work of Romantic painter John Henry Fuseli, and it explored themes of gothic romance. The press release states that the same garment viewed in a dark, gothic context by one viewer will be interpreted as romantic and liberating by the next.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jessica Holt
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jessica Holt.

The show opened with a stunning piece of performance, as a red-headed model appeared in gothic Tim Burton-esque make up, black skirts tumbling as she grew before our eyes into a 12 foot monster burlesque bride waving great green feathered fans. Thereafter followed a series of printed, billowing capes and tightly corseted dresses, all accessorised with veils, reddened eyes, cracked cheeks and Joker smiles. Apparently Ziad asked each model to choose their own favourite horror film make up for the show.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jamie McGregor
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jamie McGregor.

Androgynous models wore chiffon and beaded dresses, a spooky ghost couple trailed still more netting behind as they faced the photographers together. Amidst the drama cleverly made outfits showcased traditional haute couture skills using bias cut vintage silk chiffons and duchess satin that flowed around the body.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A white faced creature smeared its face with black paint and make up took a turn towards our feathered friends: blue winged eyes echoing the giant bird prints on winged dresses. Out stepped a ballet dancer on pointe, edging down the catwalk in frilled lilac, her skull face shrouded in grey. As she retreated backwards a series of busty ladies swept down the catwalk in eminently wearable multi coloured chiffon dresses: amongst them walked transvestites, burlesque artists and a giant lady in grey. I particularly adored the bustle backed electric fuchsia number that emphasised every womanly curve.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

Taking the art of the catwalk to fantastical heights, Ziad Ghanem proved that his shows really are worth the hype, with or without the added bonus of an 80s pop idol in a fabulous yellow fedora. You can read more about his unique selection of models here.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can also read Florence Massey’s review of the Ziad Ghanem show here.

Alice Palmer A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Alice Palmer A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Glaswegian Alice Palmer makes extravagantly shaped knitwear. Now based in London, medical she demonstrated her ‘polyhedra knitting’ skills to the max with her Into the Void collection. The press release cites the minimalism of Anish Kapoor, side effects the eccentric dreams of flying machine enthusiast Gustav Mesmer, who invented an Umbrella Helicopter, and Black Sabbath as diverse influences, but you’d be hard pushed to identify them in anything more than the loosest of contexts.

Alice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 by Gilly RochesterAlice Palmer A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester
Alice Palmer A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester.

Abstracted shapes in monochrome and muted gold were the basis of Into the Void, extended and furled from the body in stunning 3D folds like the skin of an exotic ridged lizard. Large dangling flaps resembled the armoured scales of a dinosaur as they capsized down low cut backs, or heaved forwards like ruptured innards. Hair was layered high on top of the head, and eyes pronounced with winged eyebrows in severest black. Tight fitting dresses with a geometric pattern like rippling water were amongst the most desirable in terms of wearability.

Alice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void All photography by Amelia Gregory.Alice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void Daniel Lismore photography by Amelia Gregory.Alice Palmer A/W 2011 by Emmi OjalaAlice Palmer A/W 2011 by Emmi Ojala
Alice Palmer A/W 2011 by Emmi Ojala.

I was particularly captivated by the amazing spike jewellery which came bobbing seductively past me at eye level on wrists, and around necks, and dangling in great stacked globes off fingers. It was created by Karen-Ann Dicken of Oread Jewellery, a fellow Glaswegian who trained at the Royal College of Art. For this catwalk show she lent her Geo designs, made from steel, silver, semi-precious stones and cubic zirconia.

Alice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryAlice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Photography by Amelia GregoryKaren-Ann Dicken geo necklaceKaren-Ann Dicken geo necklace in steel
Geo necklace images courtesy of Karen-Ann Dicken.

Alice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void. Rebekah Roy. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Alice Palmer A/W 2011 Into the Void stylist, the lovely Rebekah Roy. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can view more work by Emmi Ojala in my first book, Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, available here.

Categories ,Alice Palmer, ,Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, ,Anish Kapoor, ,architectural, ,Black Sabbath, ,Cubic Zirconia, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Emmi Ojala, ,Fashion Scout, ,Geo Designs, ,Geo Necklace, ,geometric, ,Gilly Rochester, ,glasgow, ,Gustav Mesmer, ,Into the Void, ,Karen-Ann Dicken, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,minimalism, ,monochrome, ,Oread Jewellery, ,Polyhedra Knitting, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Royal College of Art, ,Silver, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Steel, ,Umbrella Helicopter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Joanna Klimas

Joanna-Klimas_by Alison Day
Joanna Klimas by Alison Day.

Joanna Klimas has had an interesting career to date: initially trained as a psychologist before turning to fashion a decade later. She was one of the first Polish designers to embrace a new minimalism in the 1990s, generic appearing in the first issue of Polish Elle. In 2001 she began to design costumes for the opera but returned to fashion design recently.

Joanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

This collection was dominated by black and tasteful neutrals such as beige, cheap creamy yellow, order nude and camel. There was a lot of asymmetric shaping, floaty maxi dresses mixed with leather swing crop tops, overlong collars – all accessorised with boyish black oxfords and short socks. I wasn’t convinced by an unflattering sheer plastic skirt or a weird grey printed skin fabric and I was starting to recognise each model’s individual walk, which is never a good point in the proceedings. By the time the turquoise chiffon hit the catwalk I had also lost track of the number of floaty maxi dresses I had seen at Fashion Week Poland. Truth be told Joanna Klimas left me underwhelmed.

Joanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Joanna Klimas A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,asymmetric, ,Chiffon, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Joanna Klimas, ,leather, ,Lodz, ,Maxi dresses, ,minimalism

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Amelia’s Magazine | A Conversation with Jordan McKenzie

‘Spent’ All images courtesy of Jordan McKenzie

Within the opulent walls of The Courtauld Institute lies a mirage of great artwork; from the classical to contemporary, erectile Da Vinci to, order now, McKenzie. But Jordan McKenzie’s artwork is slightly different.

Spent is a series of works, which are the artist’s semen on litmus paper. Some might call it his ‘semenal’ work. Ha ha. Oh dear. Anyway, aside from Spent, McKenzie is a well established performance artist who has worked nationally and internationally on a variety of performance pieces which have included exploring minimalism in New York, termites in London and coming up late this month, Barbara Cartland. I sit down to chat to Jordan McKenzie about his unorthodox career path in the Arts.

How did you initially get into art? Where did it all begin?

Good Lord that was a long time ago! I had quite a circuitous route into art. My first degree was in literature; I started doing literary theory at Nottingham University. Which got me very involved critical theory, so I got into art through a theoretical basis. But at the same time I was doing street performance. From that point on I realised that was what I wanted to do. I then secured a teaching job after graduation and from there continued making work with the support of the institution I was in. After that I went on to do an MA but throughout a lot of my art career I had no formal training.

For the initial performances, coming from a theoretical background, how did the theory manifest itself within the performance?

Well, although I was looking at theoretical positions, I was also studying the history of performance. Looking at people like Allan Kaprow and ‘Happenings’ which were taking place in the sixties, so a lot of my early work was quite derivative from those, as I didn’t have discourse around it, I was just in the street by myself. So they probably were quite illustrative of that time, of theory, but it seemed like a relevant place to start. I think it’s important that performance practitioners work on the street, as a lot of performers now have no knowledge about audience. I learnt how to structure performances and encounters from working on the street with non-art aware audiences. I think that’s important, that you work in different context from an art institution.

But then when you moved onto a project like ‘Spent’ it’s not so performance based, or is it? Turning a private performance at an earlier date into a static artwork? How did one turn into the other?

Well, what I’d been doing was a series of works with cubes and graphite which were called ‘Interior Die’ which were based on a piece of work called ‘Die’ by Tony Smith, who made a 6ft by 6ft steel cube, and I wanted to make a performative intervention into minimalism. So I started doing performative drawings, and looking at drawings of performative acts. I thought about different ways the body could draw, not just the hand-eye brain co-ordination. So through that, I started investigated sonic drawing as well as the way other parts of my body could draw, so ejaculation seemed a logical progression. It’s performative and in a way, a gentle satire on conceptual art from the late sixties and early seventies.

It’s also a way of exploring the relationship between the artist and his materials, in the theme of using the body as the tool; artists have painted in their own blood before, is it a progression of using the self as a totally independent source of Art?

There’s a sort of implosion of process; the new ‘Spent’ works are on orange litmus paper, so they’ve come out green. I like that it bleeds into the paper, and the artwork continues to develop even once I’ve finished. It’s self-evolving artwork; the paper is very sensitive to moisture so it changes depending on the environment. I love the fact it’s intrinsically unstable.


Do you get a kick out of the fact that people buy you’re artwork, and they’re hanging a £900 wank in their front room? Is it a comment on the art community?

Well, you could say that if you were cynical! There is something very interesting about the kind of work I do being shown in somewhere like the Coutauld; but it’s great that the Coutauld have acknowledged the importance of the work and placed it in a wider art historical trajectory, which I work in that trajectory. I mean, Duchamp have worked with semen, many artists have worked with semen.

There’s almost a Duchamp element to it; he was making a point whilst being tongue in cheek, but still the end result is still authentic art without looking down on the art community, embracing it whilst making a comment on it…

Exactly. I think my work engages with post minimalism and gently pokes fun at that; there is a certain level of critique, but also an acknowledgement of other identities at the same time. Constantly coming from a queer position and being given a place in the academy.

Did you integrate a lot of queer theory into the production of the pieces?

(Pause)

Um, not quite the production of it –

Ha! Well the usual gay porn, perhaps!

Not quite the production of it, but the nature of ‘Spent’ engages with an idea of sexuality and queer theory

Yes, I do that all the time. I think the ability of queer theory to satirise, disrupt, play and effect are incredible. I’m very interested in the idea of intervention, guerrilla interventions in art. Especially with minimalism, and those accepted art forms. I have a love hate relationship with it. It’s very monumental, it’s very butch, and it could have only really come from NYC. So last year I commented on that. I revisited classic minimalist works in Manhattan; and I think minimalism could have only really come from Manhattan; the use of the grid, glass, steel etc. So I was interested in the way artists commissioned the work, but it would be sent out of the city to be made in steel factories by blue-collar workers. So I was interested in the relationship between that. So what I did was make a cube, and for three hours I pushed it over the Williamsburg Bridge dressed as a blue collar worker, deer hunter meets Bruce Springsteen; pushing it away from Manhattan and into Brooklyn, until it fell apart and became part of the street detritus. The idea of taking something out of a gallery and letting it pick up elements of the street itself.

I know you’re dressing up as Barbara Cartland in a few weeks for scriptuacontinua, so how did you arrive at that? Babs Cartland is the opposite of blue-collar steel workers…

One thing that happened was very important. I think there’s an expectation from academy’s to stay on the same path; I could have carried on in that trajectory with cubes and minimalism but one great thing happened. It was a great thing; I only felt bad about it for a day and then felt really liberated. An arsonist broke into my studio and torched the place to the ground. Obviously not an art lover. Or maybe he was and decided to take action against me!

Same one who got Emin’s tent perhaps. A vigilante art critic.

It was great, because I was a prisoner of my own success with drawing, and once that got torched I realised I could start anywhere and go in a new direction. I also got a yearlong residency at Studio 1.1, where I collaborated with other artists and worked on collaborated pieces, which really took my art into different places. My early art was theoretical, and fun. Somewhere along the way I got lost in it’s austerity and being theoretically rigorous that I forgot that it was also supposed to be fun. It should also be fun; otherwise it becomes a masochistic odd endeavour. For one piece, I worked with Edwina Ashton where we dressed up as termites and systematically destroyed a gallery over four hours, which I loved! From then on, we formed a group, which engage in performance. It’s fun and satirical; using irreverence to question the constructs of art and make guerrilla interventions. I like the idea of artists doing work, and then other artists taking it further. There’s a piece I did called Andredance, where I walked into Tate Britain and disco danced on Carl Andre’s tiles; filming it. I’m calling it minimal interventions, a slacker’s way of making new art.

Would you also say, it’s a way of literally deconstructing art; from termites to disco dancing – taking a pre existing piece of art and recontextualizing the idea of it?

Yes, and while I say satire, it’s not completely true. I do it because I really love those pieces of art. I have a love hate relationship with it; the big butchness of minimalism I really love, but it’s also what I don’t like about it. It’s negotiating this indefinable stance I have on it, which I really enjoy because it stops the work becoming didactic.

So can you tell me about your upcoming performance at KALEID?

It’s based on a quote by Umberto Eco, that you can’t say I love you madly anymore because that’s a cliché within postmodernism, so to get around that you have to acknowledge the irony of it by saying ‘As Barbara Cartland would say, I love you madly’. So I thought about the idea of sincerity within postmodernism. And I thought about all the great love songs, which describe love, either temporarily ‘I love you eternally etc’ or they describe them spatially, ‘Ain’t no river deep enough, high as a mountain etc’, so I’m trying to connect the two ideas between sincerity and temporal or spatial idea of love in popular culture. So I thought about Barbara Cartland, and then the duet between Diana Ross and Lionel Richie ‘Endless Love’. So as you know, Barbara Cartland dictated her novels to a secretary, so in a reversal I’m transcribing the lyrics of the song onto Möbius strip, to create an idea of eternal love. Physics and mathematics, meets Barbara Cartland.

Jordan McKenzie’s Spent series can be viewed at The Courtauld Institute, details of which can be found here

And the upcoming performance at Kaleid is on the 23rd March at 6pm. Details of which can also be found here.

Categories ,amica lane, ,barbara cartland, ,carl andre, ,courtauld institute, ,critical theory, ,edwina ashton, ,jordan mckenzie, ,kaleid, ,minimalism, ,nottingham university, ,Performance Art, ,spent

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