Amelia’s Magazine | Holly Fulton: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Holly Fulton S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Holly Fulton S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

I visited the brand new tented showspace in the courtyard of Somerset House just once this season, for Holly Fulton. The new runway allows for just one turn on the catwalk, meaning that you have to drink in the view far faster than previously. Models stomped out at the base of one tent, turned down to strut across at a 90 degree angle, and then posed against a patterned wall on the last leg out. Against a far busier environment and inside a brighter space it was much harder to take evocative photos like those of seasons past, when strong stage lights ensured that models floated alluringly against a blackened backdrop.

Holly Fulton S/S 2014 by Elisa Mac
Holly Fulton S/S 2014 by Elisa Mac.

But for Holly Fulton it was well worth getting to know the vagaries of the new tent. Her beautiful new collection perfectly showcased all the design foibles for which she has become so well known: deco inspired patterns, perspex decorative embellishments and her trademark sense of fun. Models wore 80s inspired side swept hair dos, accessorised with big flower stud earrings. Matching casual printed separates were interspersed with 70s inspired floaty shirt dresses, and flared chiffon skirts were worn high waisted with simple printed tees. Patterns mixed the geometric and the Oriental with ease – I particularly liked an on trend dusky pink and grey print featuring cranes. Silken lounge suits could be mistaken for fancy pyjamas but the heels and clutch bags suggested a more dressy intention. Embellishments included ribbon embroidery on a sweatshirt and an intriguing manipulation of textured cork that featured cut outs and appliqué. Alongside the experimentation this Spring/Summer collection was full of eminently wearable pieces, so it’s no wonder that Holly Fulton has managed to create such a hot brand in so little time. Feast your eyes on the photos below…

Holly Fulton Spring Summer 14 Illustration by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Holly Fulton S/S 2014 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton SS 2014- photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fulton S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Elisa Mac, ,Holly Fulton, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Somerset House, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | João Melo Costa and Luís Buchinho: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Jaoa Melo Costa S/S 2014 by Elisa Mac
João Melo Costa S/S 2014 by Elisa Mac.

It is becoming more and more common to find showcases for other countries on the catwalks during LFW, presumably because London is considered the pinnacle of creativity… if not sales. And then labels can return to their home countries and boast of their success in London, thereby impressing their local fans. Still, it’s not cheap to bring a designer and their collection to these shores, which is why journalists are frequently invited over to cover fashion weeks in home lands (I was flown out to Poland for several seasons, and know many who do the rounds of European fashion weeks).

With this in mind it helps to have a bit of sponsorship at hand, which is clearly why two Portuguese designers were showing in the embassy headquarters at Belgrave Square. Since I always get excited about seeing inside a posh venue I jumped at the chance to attend: the paintings and champagne were lovely but unfortunately the lighting was petty dismal so it wasn’t the best place to take great photos. You win some, you lose some. Here’s how it went:

Joao Melo Costa SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Joao Melo Costa SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Joao Melo Costa SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Joao Melo Costa SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Joao Melo Costa SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
The two designers were shown back to back, with the younger of the two first up. João Melo Costa showed a youthful collection that featured some interesting round optical designs translated into yummy orange and white prints on boxy shaped separates. He played with different fabrics, layering see-through chiffon and pearlescent materials, and echoes of the print appeared in metal embellishments on slate grey versions.

Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Luís Buchinho is a stalwart of Portuguese fashion and put together an elegant but instantly forgettable collection that featured a series of panelled dresses; his only concession to current trends being the ear cuffs worn by one model.

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Belgrave Square, ,catwalk, ,Elisa Mac, ,João Melo Costa, ,Luís Buchinho, ,Portugal, ,Portuguese, ,Portuguese Embassy, ,review, ,S/S 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | Christmas Guide 2012: Artist & Designer Christmas Cards

Matthew Land Christmas Cards
Christmas card by Matthew Land.

Christmas is nearly upon us, yes really. And to start my lengthy round up of gift recommendations for the entire family I firstly give you a fab selection of artist cards: available to buy (more or less) direct from the artist.

Matthew Land Christmas Cards
First up, it was hard to choose which of Matthew Land‘s cards to include as thy are all so pretty but I settled on this one (and the opener) as the family scene resonates with me these days. Matthew was indeed inspired by ‘the joy, innocence and excitement of the festivities we recall from childhood.‘ In his designs he has ignored the tawdry trappings of a modern Christmas, simplifying things and concentrating on the best bits of Christmas in a traditional way. Here here!

madi illustration bahhumbug
Madi Illustration has gone for a cute yet contemporary look, incorporating hand-created typography. Her Bah Humbug card was created for those who don’t really enjoy Christmas; something that might appeal to them a little more than the usual card, and putting a smile on their face.

Livi Gosling foodie christmas cards
Livi Gosling has created a stunning collection of 6 cards themed around edible Christmas treats.

Nicholas Darby Holly Card
Nicholas Darby combines bold shape and detailed line work with hand produced textures. The cards themselves are then printed using 100% recycled Mohawk stock. I particularly like this dashing set of Holly leaves and berries, but he also does a fine line in the ever popular Matryoshka dolls.

JoanneHawker-RedBirdHouse
Forget santa and his reindeers, send something a little different this Christmas! Joanne Hawker‘s Pack of 6 Bird House Christmas Cards show little birds with perfectly decorated little homes, patiently waiting for their stockings to be filled full of presents! She has also produced a range of line art cards, designed for bespoke kiddie colouring in.

stacie swift xmas cards
Christmas cards by Stacie Swift were inspired by traditional motifs and imagery; hand drawn illustration combined with a simple colour palette give them modern appeal.

elisa mac christmas card
Elisa Mac was inspired by seasonal imagery and festive colour schemes to produce a collection of traditional cards with a contemporary twist.

rebecca rawlings
Rebecca Rawlings‘ bright cards have been finished off by hand with glitter to add a bit of extra Christmas sparkle.

Emma Cowlam Anna at the Rink
Emma Cowlam‘s illustrated Christmas cards are currently stocked at the Rizzoli Bookshop, Somerset House where she is showing her original stitched illustrations as well as prints. The Somerset House Christmas Arcade pop-up shop also stocks her illustrated ceramic tableware which was a result of her successful application to a Handmade in Britain open call out.
 
louise jenkins artic animals
Illustrations of the mystical Arctic Fox and Polar Bear by Louise Jenkins have been hand painted in beautiful decorative style using water colour and Gouache.

Jenny Robins xmas cards
Jenny Robins has created a collection of colourful Christmas cards inspired by Christmas carol lyrics.

Chloe Bonfield christmas cards
Chloe Bonfield is offering a range of tasteful watercolour Christmas cards, and a personalised service for that special someone.

Why not pick your favourite cards and shop straight from your artist of choice this year? Just think how much your friends and family will appreciate such an individual choice.

Categories ,Arctic Fox, ,Bah Humbug, ,birds, ,ceramics, ,Chloe Bonfield, ,Christmas, ,Christmas cards, ,Elisa Mac, ,Elisa MacDougall, ,Emma Cowlam, ,etsy, ,Guide, ,Handmade in Britain, ,Holly, ,illustration, ,Jenny Robins, ,Joanne Hawker, ,Livi Gosling, ,Louise Jenkins, ,Madi Illustration, ,Matryoshka dolls, ,Matthew Land, ,Nicholas Darby, ,polar bear, ,Rebecca Rawlings, ,Rizzoli Bookshop, ,Somerset House, ,Somerset House Christmas Arcade, ,Stacie Swift

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mediaeval Baebes, The Huntress double album: review and interview with founder Katharine Blake

Mediaeval Baebes by Elisa Macdougall
Mediaeval Baebes by Elisa Mac.

I’ve never paid much attention to the Mediaeval Baebes before, but then new album The Huntress landed on my doormat and I listened, and was won over: look past the frou frou faux mediaeval stylings and this is great fun. Across two packed CD’s worth of tracks, both old tunes and ancient texts set to self-penned music get the Baebes treatment – intriguing stories, atonal melodies, folk noodlings and plenty of glorious harmonies. For anyone interested in the intersection of classical music and mediaeval folk this will make an intriguing purchase. Founding Baebe Katharine Blake answers some questions about the creation of and inspiration behind The Huntress.

Mediaeval Baebes The Huntress
How have the Baebes changed over the years?
The Mediaeval Baebes started out as a raucous, hedonistic bunch of girls who initially started out singing together on a purely recreational basis. Over the years, I suppose things have calmed down a bit in the non-stop partying department to be replaced by a much more professional and slick operation…. On a musical level the band favors setting ancient and romantic verse to their own diverse compositions rather than the more traditional slant of some of their earlier material.

Mediaeval Baebes by Rhiannon Fraser
Mediaeval Baebes by Rhiannon Fraser.

What is the process for choosing a new Baebe?
Every new Baebe has been through word of mouth rather than an open audition process. The audition consists of singing with the choir to make sure that their voice blends well, performing a song of their choice, sight reading some music (usually in an ancient language), and trying out some of our dance routines…. It’s not easy being a Baebe.

Mediaeval baebes huntress
Why did you decide to place such a strong emphasis on looks?
The band is very much about fantasy and escapism… If we all turned up on stage in our jeans the spell would be broken. The reason people like our music is because it is deeply romantic and other-wordly. Enhancing this with a faerie-tale image heightens the experience for the audience.

YouTube Preview ImageMediaeval Baebes – Veni Veni Bella

What is the strongest thread running through all your music?
The timeless and romantic themes which are expressed in the texts that we use. I love to take an ancient poem by an anonymous poet and breathe life into it. This feels like a very magical process to me. It is an honour to help keep the spirit of our ancestors alive within a fanciful environment.

Mediaeval baebes huntress
There are lots of references to the moon on your new album… where did you look for moon inspiration?
The moon just keeps cropping up in romantic and ancient poetry. We never get bored of her though, due to her infinite mystery. The control she has over us is enormous. Being organisms comprising mainly of water, we are sensitive to her cycles in the same way that the tide is.

What other feminine energy should listeners listen out for?
There is a track on the album in Arabic called Clasp of a Lion which was written by the Andalusian Arab poetess Nazhun al-Garnatiya (Very little is known of her origins, except that they were lower class, and that she may have been a slave. By the time of her death in 1100, however, she had risen to notoriety on account of her sexual reputation and her fearlessly sensual and erotic verse. One of her many lovers, Abu Bakr ibn Sa’id, the Vizier of Andalusia, exchanged verses with her, complaining about her other ‘thousand admirers’. She is now regarded as perhaps the most outrageous and outspoken female Arab poet of the Mediaeval period.) The lyrics to this particular poem describe her and her lover as ‘The Sun in the arms of the Moon‘, or a panting gazelle in the clasp of a lion.

Mediaeval Baebes by Bhulla Beghal
Mediaeval Baebes by Bhulla Beghal.

The album is equally folk and classical inspired – what inspired the more esoteric songs?
All the songs on the album apart from Cruel Sister and She Moves Through the Fayre are original compositions. Dies Irae, and Dianae (two of the more esoteric numbers) both use text from the manuscript of Benediktbeuern which was the Mediaeval Latin source of Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana. Other texts which have been set to music in an ethereal and whimsical style in include the Elizabethan poet Ben Jonson’s Queen and Huntress (an ode to the moon) and the 17th century poet William Broome’s The Rose-Bud (a meditation on the tragedy of withering beauty and mortality).

For those readers more used to discovering indie and folk bands who are under the mainstream radar, how would you persuade them to try out the Mediaeval Baebes‘ new album?
Fans of folk music might be interested in delving further back in time to experience music using languages such as 12th Century Irish, 14th Century Middle English, 13th Century Latin and 11th Century Arabic. In the ancient tradition of folk music it is our aim to popularize and keep alive the spirit of ancient languages and traditions.

Mediaeval Baebes by Jhinuk Sarkar
Mediaeval Baebes by Jhinuk Sarkar.

The Huntress by Mediaeval Baebes is out now. The Mediaeval Baebes are currently on tour around the UK: catch them at these cathedrals and churches in the run up to Christmas: buy tickets here.
Saturday 8th Dec – Norwich Cathedral
Thursday 13th Dec – Gloucester Cathedral
Friday 14th Dec – Ely Lady Chapel
Saturday 15th Dec – Peterbourough Cathedral
Friday 21st Dec – St Sepulchre Without Newgate

Categories ,Abu Bakr ibn Sa’id, ,Ben Jonson, ,Benediktbeuern, ,Bhulla Beghal, ,Carl Orff, ,Carmina Burana, ,Cathedrals, ,Clasp of a Lion, ,classical, ,Cruel Sister, ,Dianae, ,Dies Irae, ,Double Album, ,Elisa Mac, ,Elisa MacDougall, ,folk, ,interview, ,Jhinuk Sarkar, ,Katharine Blake, ,Mediaeval Baebes, ,Nazhun al-Garnatiya, ,Queen and Huntress, ,review, ,Rhiannon Fraser, ,She Moves Through the Fayre, ,The Huntress, ,The Rose-Bud, ,Tour Dates, ,Veni Veni Bella, ,Vizier of Andalusia, ,William Broome

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