João Melo Costa – AmeliasMagazine

Jaoa Melo Costa S/S 2014 by Elisa Mac
João Melo Costa S/S 2014 by Elisa Mac.

It is becoming more and more common to find showcases for other countries on the catwalks during LFW, presumably because London is considered the pinnacle of creativity… if not sales. And then labels can return to their home countries and boast of their success in London, thereby impressing their local fans. Still, it’s not cheap to bring a designer and their collection to these shores, which is why journalists are frequently invited over to cover fashion weeks in home lands (I was flown out to Poland for several seasons, and know many who do the rounds of European fashion weeks).

With this in mind it helps to have a bit of sponsorship at hand, which is clearly why two Portuguese designers were showing in the embassy headquarters at Belgrave Square. Since I always get excited about seeing inside a posh venue I jumped at the chance to attend: the paintings and champagne were lovely but unfortunately the lighting was petty dismal so it wasn’t the best place to take great photos. You win some, you lose some. Here’s how it went:

Joao Melo Costa SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

The two designers were shown back to back, with the younger of the two first up. João Melo Costa showed a youthful collection that featured some interesting round optical designs translated into yummy orange and white prints on boxy shaped separates. He played with different fabrics, layering see-through chiffon and pearlescent materials, and echoes of the print appeared in metal embellishments on slate grey versions.

Luis Buchinho SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Luís Buchinho is a stalwart of Portuguese fashion and put together an elegant but instantly forgettable collection that featured a series of panelled dresses; his only concession to current trends being the ear cuffs worn by one model.