Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Christian Blanken


Illustration by Gareth A. Hopkins

As I have found with all the Portico Rooms shows, this site pills they never start on time. I arrived too early again but on this occasion, had the pleasure of watching Blanken being interviewed outside on the balcony, and the models (slightly last minute?!) being taught the walk timings.

Christian Blanken’s sport luxe approach to fashion has always intrigued me – before this weird jogging bottoms with heels trend came along, I thought him very clever to be able to make casual(ish) clothes look very special. However, therein lies the problem – its still just very sports luxe. He followed the trend this season of sticking to neutral and block colours – white, grey, black and the occasional gold lame looking dress or top. Favourite pieces for me included the floor length white dress with silver edging, and all the gold spangly numbers.


Illustration by Gareth A. Hopkins

True to form, innovative and technologically advanced fabrics featured at the forefront of his designs. Using inspiration from 1920s and 1930s (although I couldn’t see it) and designer Claire McCardell (famed for clean, functional designs), I feel that the collection played it very safe. His signature clean lines, and the mixture of luxury fabrics and textures with a sportsy feel are all there, but nothing earth shattering.





Interestingly, for ‘Nine’ he included three of Britain’s most prominent Olympic hopefuls – Jodie Williams, Tasha Danvers and Vicki Barr who all did a sterling job at modeling the clothes.


All photography by Amelia Gregory

To be honest, I am slightly disappointed. I expected more from the designer. As you can see from the photograph above, it was a very neutral colour scheme with the odd pair of black sequinned leggings (I like very much) and gold lame dresses/playsuits.

The stains which myself and others in the front row noticed on some of the clothes, and the typos in the press release didn’t help.

Categories ,Amelia Gregory, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,Christian Blanken, ,Claire McCardell, ,fashion, ,Florence Massey, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,illustration, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,neutral, ,Olympic hopefuls, ,Portico Rooms, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,Sports Luxe, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Christian Blanken

Christian Blanken SS12 by Gareth A Hopkins

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

This presentation in particular was enjoyable from the start. Away from the rush and fuss of the main tent, pharmacy I went to explore the bright and beautiful Portico Rooms of Somerset House to find the Christian Blanken show. As I lined up, I got a peek at the other designer exhibitions and took in the quiet calm of the wooden floors and neo-classical architecture.

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta

All photography by Rosa & Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard

I was ushered inside a room set up with some impressive-looking mirrored panels, I took a seat and got my sketchbook and pens ready for what Mr Blanken had to show us. As the lights slightly dimmed and the music began to start I got my third compliment of the day on my Bora Aksu patterned ‘Angel’ tights which were a front-row goody bag gift and have left me wanting more from his new hosiery and accessory range.

Christian Blanken SS 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Christian Blanken has a very clean and cool vision for Spring/Summer 2012, defined by shades of grey, mink, and black and occasional shots of soft coral. He really developed his sharp and luxe look with an artful use of heavy ruching and sportswear-like silhouettes.

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 illustrated by Kate Eldridge

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Kate Eldridge

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta
Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta
It was all undoubtedly feminine, but not as you’d recognise it. Ruching? Sparkle? Soft silks and pale colours? Sweet, but not in the hands of Christian Blanken. I have never been a big fan of sweet, and like Christian count strong-silhouette designers like Azzedine Alaia and Helmut Lang as two of my favourites, but would most definitely embrace this wearable version of it for S/S 2012.

Christian-Blanken S/S 2012 illustrated by Alia Gargum

Christian-Blanken S/S 2012 by Alia Gargum

Inspired by the new Swarovski Elements ceramics collection, stingrays (which worked beautifully in print), bonded textiles and leathers, this collection is for those that appreciate tailoring, detail, and good fabrics. Christian sourced materials from Italy to get the best he could while following his aim of creating the ideal modern wardrobe without an impossible price range.

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 illustrated by Ada Jusic

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 illustrated by Ada Jusic

The show itself was even relaxing to draw; the clean lines, slicked-back hair and sharp tailoring flowed easily along the page. Even the latecomers that kept walking into the show space and were momentarily reflected in the cleverly designed set along with the models didn’t disrupt the calm.

Christian Blanken S/S 2012 by Rosa & Carlotta Crepax
As the show ended and I left the room, I felt curious to see what this Dutch-born designer comes up with next. Anyone who can make ruching and sparkle also behave in such a strong and structured way deserves attention, which he seemed to be in for as I strolled past the long line already patiently waiting for the next show.

Categories ,Ada Jusic, ,Alia Gargum, ,Azzedine Alaia, ,Bora Aksu, ,Christian Blanken, ,Clean Lines, ,Coral, ,Feminine, ,Front Row, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Goddy Bag, ,Helmut Lang, ,Hoisery, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Kate Eldridge, ,London Fashion Week, ,Rosa & Carlotta Crepax, ,Set Design, ,Sparkle, ,Sportwear, ,Spring/Summer 2012, ,Swarovski, ,Sweet

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