Amelia’s Magazine | Jamie Wei Huang: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Jamie Wei Huang SS15 by Gaarte
Jamie Wei Huang SS15 by Gaarte.

Jamie Wei Huang is fast becoming one of my favourite new designers, adept at delivering sleekly wearable clothing with clever signature detailing. Her SS15 collection was titled Metaphysics; inspired by myriad forms of urban life, from bike courier to banker. Slouchy tops were paired with A-line skirts and wide culottes, with contrasting elements such as leather shoulder straps and feature pockets used with delicate geometric monochromes, silk jacquards, soft leathers and sheep skins. Of particular note were the glorious saturated moss greens, royal blues and silvery reflective hues pared with crisp white detailing.

Bags were slung low on hips or clutched lightly in hands, whilst models wore casually slicked back hair, simple wristbands and clunky low heeled sandals, a reflection of the new everyday aesthetic which currently reigns supreme on the catwalks.

Scroll down to watch a video of the catwalk show.

Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryJamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jamie Wei Huang SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Jamie Wei Huang, ,London Fashion Week, ,metaphysics, ,S/S 2015, ,SS15

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Amelia’s Magazine | The eye at the centre: An interview with artist Sam Knowles

Portrait of the Artist (manipulated found book page)

I’m a little early for my meeting with Sam Knowles, look giving me a chance to wander the rooms of the Simon Oldfield Gallery by myself for a while. This means I’m all immersed by the time the artist arrives, cheapest slightly shy as he asks me what I think. For a moment I feel self-conscious at sharing my thoughts; this is a public gallery but what happens on the walls feels oddly private. But however personal the experience of viewing the art may be to the audience, viagra order this is Knowles’ first solo exhibition so it’s probably infinitely more precious to him.

The fact that the artwork is quite small in scale means you have to get quite close to take it in, adding to the sense of intimacy. But there’s something else to it as well, it’s a feeling that comes as you’re standing there, squinting, craning, wondering. The title of the exhibition is a reference to a quote by Pascal: ‘Nature is an infinite sphere, whose centre is everywhere and whose circumference is nowhere.’ It was Borges who called it a ‘Fearful Sphere’ in an essay discussing Pascal – just as Knowles makes his art from found materials, all these different elements are pieced together and subtly manipulated to hint at something else, something bigger, to some sort of truth we think is there but we can’t see or touch.

The Prisoner (gold leaf on found book page)

It’s the grand themes of metaphysics, philosophy and science that lie at the core of Knowles’ practice. ‘Metaphysics has to do with universal principles that helps you understand the world. While metaphysics is concerned with science, it also has a lot to do with God, as in, the idea that there are pre-ordained rules for things. That is how I see it, although others may not agree,’ Knowles explains as we sit down for a chat. Knowles is a keen reader of philosophy, and as we talk it becomes clear how the art incorporates many layers of meaning. Still, Knowles stresses how he wants the audience to feel free to interpret what they see in their own way: ‘I like leaving things to interpretation, and not give people strict ideas of what to think.’

Knowles’ titles are usually drawn from the topics in the old books that provide the base for the artwork, such as ‘Orbit’, ‘The Great Enterprise’ and ‘On the Nature of the Universe’. The common thread is a reference to a centre – it’s there as a halo around the ballerina’s head, it’s the point from which gold rays emerge, it’s the eye that remains still in the middle of swirled-paper vortex. ‘In Byzantine portraits, you’ll find that halos are perfectly centred on the right eye. There’s this idea that the eye is taking everything in, and it’s a bit arrogant, really. I wanted to contradict this idea.’

On the Nature of the Universe (manipulated found book, gold pin, wood and acrylic)

While Knowles is happy to explain the theoretical concepts when prompted, I should point out there is actually very little about the 27-year-old that suggests stuffy professor. While he’s eager to talk about his work, he asks me almost as many questions as I ask him. As we get sidetracked from talking about inspiration, Knowles breaks out of the artist-slash-philosopher mode for a moment when he tells me a story about his girlfriend; ‘Oh but don’t put that in!’

Back to the topic of inspiration, he admits to borrowing from many sources: ‘I take a lot of different things from different people, in fact a tutor once described me as a magpie,’ says Knowles, who graduated from Wimbledon College of Art in 2009. ‘But most of my inspiration comes from reading, fundamentally. I find objects, mainly books, and I spend ages searching for the right ones, looking for imagery that will work and then coming up with an idea. I sit endlessly in my studio, a tiny room with stacks and stacks of books, and go through piles of images. Sometimes it doesn’t work at all, it needs to be in that moment.’

One of the largest pieces in the show is called ‘Fundamental Principals of Metaphysics of Ethics’, where Knowles has laid out all the pages of a book by this name: ‘I absolutely loved that title.’ Painted in gold is a reproduction of Gustave Doré’s White Rose, an illustration from Dante’s Divine Comedy. Knowles has fractured the image so it’s up to the viewer’s to make a judgment about what it is, but in the right light you can still see the angels, circling the sun. ‘Sometimes a piece can come really quickly, but this one took time as I kept changing the idea,’ says Knowles, as we’re crouching down to catch the light reflecting off the gold. ‘I wanted the artworks in this exhibition to interact with each other. That was very important to me; the circle, the eye at the centre.’

Fundamental Principals of the Metaphysic of Ethics (gold leaf on found book pages)

Sam Knowles’ Fearful Sphere is showing until 11th June at the Simon Oldfield Gallery in Covent Garden, London. For more information see our listing.

Sam Knowles is also part of Beyond Ourselves, an exhibition showing at the Royal Society until 22 June. Read our review here.

Categories ,art, ,Beyond Ourselves, ,Borges, ,Covent Garden, ,Dante, ,Doré’s White Rose, ,Fearful Sphere, ,london, ,metaphysics, ,Pascal, ,philosophy, ,royal society, ,Sam Knowles, ,science, ,Simon Oldfield Gallery, ,Wimbledon college of art

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