Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Kelly Goss, aka Rock ‘n’ Needle


Illustration by Pieter de Groot

When did you found Rock ‘n’ Needle and why? 
It was in 2008. I started designing and making clothes alongside studying at The Fashion Retail Academy. Although I was studying fashion retailing I still had a passion for making clothes. I wanted to design under a name and came up with Rock ‘n’ Needle. I started organising photoshoots in London through Model Mayhem and received a great response. This inspired me to develop the clothing into a brand. I took part in a fashion show in Mayfair which led to exhibiting at FaCshion exhibition. I really enjoyed taking part in these events and decided to set up the brand full time once I’d finished my course.  


What insires you, then?
I love tattoos, although I don’t have any! Tattoo designs work really well with embroidery and there’s so much inspiration from different styles. I am also inspired by music- I’m a huge rock fan, my favourite band being Motley Crue. I love musicians who have an extravagant and iconic image. I also enjoy seeing what’s happening on the streets. To me this is the biggest inspiration – to see what people are wearing now.



Photograph by Marta F. Andrés

How do you create these tattoo-tastic designs?
 I machine embroider all the designs. It starts with a drawing and develops on the computer until it is ready to be embroidered. There is a lot of sampling involved with the imagery. I use pretty basic fabrics for the clothing, using mainly cotton; the fabric needs to be suitable for embroidery. With the bows I can experiment a bit more, adding PVC, denim and all kinds of colours!  


Does your label consider the environment?
 Yes. Any material left over I try and create into the bows and brooches. I hate fabric waste, although it isn’t always easy to incorporate it into something new. I am currently in the process of re-designing the bags, for events such as Clothes Show Live. I’m also designing Rock ‘n’ Needle tote bags which will be available to buy online soon. They will have the embroidered designs on and will use environmentally-friendly cotton.  
 


Photograph by Ryan Bater

Which other designers or creatives do you admire?
My biggest admiration has been for Vivienne Westwood. I was absolutely delighted that Rock ‘n’ Needle’s first stockist was Ad Hoc on the Kings Road, near her iconic shop. The last couple of years I have been inspired by Henry Holland, who has exploded into the fashion industry – it’s really inspiring considering he started with slogan t-shirts and now has concessions Debenhams. To me, these designers have broken so many boundaries and to have such an incredible influence on people’s wardrobes. 


What has been your proudest moment so far?
 Last year I was delighted to win ‘VQ Young Learner of the Year’ for Wales: with over 500 entries it was a tough competition! I was nominated by Swansea College and the event took place at The Senedd in Cardiff with the Welsh Assembly Government. Most recently I was in the top 100 of future fashion retail leaders with Drapers Magazine. I entered the competition online and won a place at their Next Generation Academy in London, which was a one day event with industry experts. I felt honoured to be part of it. 
 

What did you get out of your time at the Next Generation Academy?
It was an invaluable day which covered a variety of topics including e-commerce, new technologies and self promotion. Henry Holland gave an interview which was a great insight for me as a designer. I met some lovely people from Success Appointments, and witnessed inspirational talks from Drapers ‘30 under 30′ feature. There was a lot of networking opportunities which was really useful as you don’t meet people as influential as this every day!


Illustration by Pieter de Groot

How do you see your collections developing in the future?
I will soon be introducing new-style tops comprising of short sleeved t-shirts and vests. I have also designed a couple of cropped tees for Summer. Next month Rock ‘n’ Needle tote bags will be available to buy, and this Winter I am launching Rock ‘n’ Needle hoodies which will carry the signature embroidered motifs. In the future I’d love to create Rock ‘n’ Needle jeans and lingerie, and maybe even menswear!
 


Do you have any other projects on the go?
Currently I am concentrating on developing the Rock ‘n’ Needle product range to expand from t-shirts and sweaters. I would love to collaborate with a fellow designer or musician/artist. I am extremely interested in the environment and animal welfare and I’d like to develop my work with these considerations. In the early stages of Rock ‘n’ Needle I have had to be fully focused on the brand, but I’m excited about broadening my scope in the future.


Photograph by Ryan Bater

What do you do in your spare time?!
 I don’t have much spare time at the moment as I’m exhibiting at Clothes Show Live London in June! There’s so much to prepare and I am launching new products which will be available to buy at the show, and then online on my website afterwards. When I do have spare time I love music and could quite happily spend hours on YouTube! I enjoy going to gigs, reading, going out for coffee and browsing in shops. Most recently I have been reading blogs – and I love Audrey Kitching’s. Her style is awesome and I always feel motivated to create when I have been reading her work!
 

I have to ask – would you ever get a tattoo?
Not in the near future, I love them but I couldn’t imagine picking a design and being happy with it for the rest of my life! I really like Fearne Cottons’ tattoos and I once worked with Ann French, who has some pretty cool ones, which can be seen in some of the Rock ‘n’ Needle pictures. I think you have to be quite a decisive person to have one and when it comes to what I wear or look like I am very indecisive.
  


Categories ,30 under 30, ,Ad Hoc, ,Ann French, ,Bags, ,Bows, ,Brooches, ,Clothes Show Live, ,Drapers, ,embroidery, ,Fearne Cotton, ,Henry Holland, ,Kelly Goss, ,Kings Road, ,london, ,Next Generation Academy, ,PVC, ,Rock ‘n’ Needle, ,Success Appointments, ,Swansea College, ,Tattoos, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,VQ Young Learner of the Year

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio

Prose Elizabeth A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson
Prose Elizabeth A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

Prose is a literary genre. Novels are prose, click as are novellas, pharm letters and even newspaper articles. Miriam Lehle has named her label Prose to express diversity and openness in the fashion statements she makes. Prose.

Prose_Elizabeth dress

The minute that the Prose mail out landed in my inbox I knew I’d chanced upon something special. Prose was founded in Schorndorf, find Germany in 2008 by Miriam Lehle, who after graduating in fashion design from the School of Design at Pforzheim University in 2007 was accepted onto the much lauded MA at Central Saint Martins in London. But she didn’t go, instead deciding to launch her own label straight away, and thus Prose was born. No need to rest!

Prose AW 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Prose A/W 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

She must have made the right decision because her achievements so far have been inspiring: In 2008 she made the final selection of the Festival International de Mode et de Photographie in Hyères, France and in the following year, together with textile designer Sabine Egler, she made it to the final of the Mango Fashion Awards in Barcelona. In January 2009 she showed her collection at the Beck’s Fashion Experience in Berlin as one of seven emerging German talents and in September 2009 Prose sold selected pieces in Topshop’s Edit Boutique. During the same month Prose presented the Biotopia collection for the first time on the catwalk at London Fashion Week as part of the On/Off showcase, and selected pieces were then sold at Topshop in 2010. The current S/S 2011 collection Spiracles was shown at Modefabriek in Amsterdam and at Tranoi Femme in Paris. Prose now presents its creations in both London and Paris. Phew!

I spoke to Miriam Lehle.

Prose_Elizabeth black ruffle

Where are you based?
Our studio is placed in Schorndorf, a small town close to Stuttgart. The building used to be an old leather manufacturer and everywhere you look the building tells you stories of the past. Here I feel comfortable and that is when I’m most productive and creative, so it has been a very instinctual choice to stay here, not a very logical one. 

Prose by Fawn Carr
Prose by Fawn Carr.

What inspired your A/W collection? Who is Elizabeth? 
The source of inspiration for our A/W 2011 collection was an old yellowed book from the 40s titled Letters of a Young Girl, by Ruk Mika. It is a collection of love letters and thoughts of the young girl, Elizabeth, addressed to her first big love, Sergej. Most inspiring was the the girl’s character between the pages: delicate, melancholic and yet so keen and hungry for life.

Prose_Elizabeth wide dress

How do you make your incredible 3D rose artworks?
Everything started with an old, ragged bedcover with a floral print that I was given by my grandmother and have kept for many years. I felt the time was right to make use of it because it perfectly corresponded to the mood of the book and my personal mood. Several of the floral print pieces are padded and also have padded floral appliques so it looks like the flowers sprawl out of the garment. It was a very handcrafted process, because the flower appliques are all handstitched.

Prose AW'11 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Prose AW 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Who do you hope will wear these clothes?
Someone that likes to dress with attitude!

Prose_Elizabeth black top skirt

What was the process of making your video and look book like?
The A/W 2011 video was shot on the banks of the river that flows in front of our studio. A few weeks before I finished the collection there was a great flood so that is how the ailing beach-like atmosphere came up… whenever I looked out of the window my attention was drawn to that place, so obviously it needed to be part of something! The hardest part was probably the cold. Yannah, the model in the movie, had to be so brave. She had to stand on an electric power wheel and it took one minute for one rotation. As you can guess it was not always perfect in the first place, so we had to do it over and over again. At the end she was frozen stiff to the wheel so that we had to free her with a hammer and an anvil ; ))…. Well, shooting the clothes is always the fun part at the end of the collection process.

YouTube Preview Image

You sent a lovely Easter email that featured an Eduard Mörike poem. What was the thinking behind that?
I always liked this particular Eduard Mörike poem and I thought it would be a nice way to send out some Easter greetings. I always work very instinctively and if you ask me why I do things my answer often will be: because I felt that way…

Prose AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Prose AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.
 
What other projects are you working on and what can we expect in the future?
I am currently working on the next collection, which we plan to present at LFW once again. We are still sketching, draping and stitching. I hope you are looking forward to see the result.

Prose_Elizabeth waistcoat

Miriam Lehle’s Prose collection can be bought online at Miosato and yes, I am very much looking forward to the next catwalk collection. Roll on LFW!

Categories ,amsterdam, ,Appliqué, ,Beck’s Fashion Experience, ,berlin, ,Biotopia, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Easter, ,Eduard Mörike, ,Elizabeth, ,Fawn Carr, ,Festival International de Mode et de Photographie, ,Germany, ,Handcrafted, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Letters of a Young Girl, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,ma, ,Mango Fashion Awards, ,Michalis Christodoulou, ,Miosato, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Modefabriek, ,onoff, ,paris, ,Pforzheim University, ,Prose, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Ruk Mika, ,Sabine Egler, ,School of Design, ,Schorndorf, ,Spiracles, ,Stuttgart, ,Topshop’s Edit Boutique, ,Tranoi

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Very Best Scented Christmas Candles

Willow candle by daria hlazatova
Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

I don’t know what it is about candles that gets me so excited. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that I love beautiful smells. My house may be a mess but I quite often spritz my office with a sweetly scented room spray or light a candle to imbue a relaxing mood. I think that this is the nub of what is so brilliant about candles, viagra especially the really high quality ones that contain high quantities of essential oils – they are the simplest way to create a delightfully relaxing and cosy feeling within a space.

willow organics candle

And of course Christmas is all about candles. Since I lived in Sweden as a little girl my family has had a tradition of lighting advent candles during the month of December – and whilst I don’t spend much time at my parent’s home anymore, rx I always look forward to candlelit dinners when I return for Christmas. Candles impart a certain cosiness which the Danish call “hygge” – and during these bitterly cold dark winter months is most sorely appreciated.

Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova
Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

This year my favourite discovery is the Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle. It comes beautifully presented in a beribboned fold out box and utilises the naturally healing and calming effects of precious oils that have been synonymous with Christmas since biblical times.

Willow candle box
willow candle box open

From the wonderful scents to the gold leaf that floats glittering in the top of the wax, it doesn’t get more christmassy than this. The Willow Organic shop in Kings Road, Chelsea is open until the 23rd December, so there’s still time to grab a fabulous Christmas candle before the big day.

Cire_Trudon_by_Megan_Piontkowski
Cire Trudon by Megan Piontkowski.

Earlier this year I discovered the French Cire Trudon brand, which has been in operation in various guises since 1643. Alongside very high quality candles presented in beautiful glass pots with heraldic shields, they also produce stunning room sprays in statement bottles and a boxed set containing a room spray, candle and illustrated fairy tale – the idea being to encourage children to enjoy evocative scents from a very young age. Not for the hard up these boxed sets don’t come cheap, but I love the idea and the illustrated booklets are a delight.

Sinbad the Sailor - Fairy Tale Box - Cire Trudon

Recently discovered: the Albam independent menswear clothing store in Spitalfields stocks three yummy varieties of candle, my favourite being the figgy one. When I went in they were also testing out a new scent called Library, which was suitably masculine. Unfortunately I don’t think you can buy these online but it’s definitely worth taking a trip down to this great little store. I have since discovered that these candles are made by ecological candle makers True Grace. You can find a whole host of flavours online for a very reasonable price here.

Spitalfields Candle Co by ellie sutton
Spitalfields Candle Co and Tocca candles by Ellie Sutton.

There is also the Spitalfields Candle Co. which uses sustainably sourced soya wax in all candles. It was hard to choose my favourite from such a yummy range only briefly sniffed in the Inspitalfields gift store, but I think it has to be Lemon Verbena – I just love that clean bright scent.

Diptyque Candle - The Cloud Commission
Diptyque Candle by The Cloud Commission.

Tocca are a high end scent company that stock in Liberty – I particularly like the sound of the Bianca candle which contains Green Tea and Lemon. Each year the Parisian brand Diptyque creates a special Christmas range, in beautifully decorated coloured glass jars. The Orange Epicee sounds yummy, as does the Canelle.

Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins
Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lastly but no means least Jo Malone offers incredibly classy scents, all tastefully presented in cream boxes with crisp branding. The limited edition Pine & Eucalyptus Collection sounds glorious, and how about a giant candle with not one but four wicks to make a major statement?

Right, I’m off to get on with my present wrapping by the scent of my Willow Organic candle. Have a glorious Christmas everyone.

Categories ,Advent, ,Albam, ,Beauty, ,candle, ,Christmas, ,Cire Trudon, ,Danish, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Diptyque, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Essential Oils, ,Fig, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,gifts, ,Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle, ,hygge, ,Jo Malone, ,Kings Road, ,liberty, ,Megan Piontkowski, ,organic, ,Pine & Eucalyptus Collection, ,spitalfields, ,Spitalfields Candle Co., ,sweden, ,The Cloud Commission, ,Tocca, ,True Grace, ,Village Classic Candle, ,Willow Organic

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