It’s not often that a support band makes your ears prick up and pay attention; too often I’ve been to gigs where sub-standard support acts make the wait for the headliners feel that little bit longer. I doubt in their short career that Little Comets have ever had that problem.
They caught my attention when they supported the Noisettes on their national tour last year, and so it was exciting to see the band headline the Joiners in Southampton last week.
Little Comets are already favourites with the music press after a few well publicised stunts such as playing on the Metro, purchase or in the bakery isle of the local Marks & Spencer store, sales in their hometown of Newcastle. Their single ‘One Night In October’ reached No. 1 in the independent singles chart, so they’ve already got a relatively huge following.
It was the busiest I’ve seen the Joiners; it was a room full of sweaty, drunk lads who were all pretty excited for the band to start. When Little Comets play live they breathe life into their bouncy, poppy songs. It’s impossible not to get caught up in the fun of their live sets. At such an intimate venue, the gig really felt like we were watching something special.
Yes, Little Comets are a guitar band and that’s nothing new, but their songs and the way they approach them really are. In a genre that’s been done to death already, Little Comets are unexpectedly unique. In half an hour they convinced me that there is a future for guitar bands; something that no one has been able to do for a good year or so.
The audience sang along to pretty much every song as the band bounced their way through their perfectly formed pop-tracks such as ‘Friday Don’t Need It’ and ‘Adultery’, but it was ‘Joanna’ that really stood out. Unlike their other guitar-pop tunes, this a capella track quietened the room. It’s the song that sets them above their contemporaries and proves they’re not just four guys playing poppy lad-rock. They’re not a grown-up version of McFly, they’re a group of proper musicians who write proper lyrics and know how to engage the crowd.
Someone in the crowd shouted up to singer Rob, confessing that his girlfriend loved him. Rob got a lot of love that night; a couple of tracks in someone shouted that they loved him too. His witty responses, which were quicker than a heartbeat, had the crowd laughing throughout the set. Little Comets are the kind of band that will do well during the festival season. The fun they radiate is infectious and I can imagine nothing nicer than dancing in the afternoon to one of their sets.
They won over my friend whose CD collection extends to a collection of Now albums and the Glee soundtrack If they can do that, I have no doubt they’ll charm their audiences on the rest of the tour, and wherever else they get to play this summer.
Illustration by Aniela Murphy
The other Saturday I took a little trip down to The Wapping Project to see the rather splendid Ally Capellino exhibition. Completely under-publicised, drugs I have to thank Susie over at Style Bubble for bringing it to my attention. I’m a huge fan of this understated label, and I often pop into their store on Calvert Avenue in Shoreditch to salivate over their rather wonderful bags, rewarding myself with a coffee at Leila’s afterwards.
Turns out I’m a mere moment from The Wapping Project too, so I popped down with a couple of pals, only to be told by a florist, who shall remain nameless, that the exhibition was closed due to a wedding. Saddened, we stood outside hoping that we could at least get a glimpse through the window. LUCKILY, the director of the WP ushered us in. The wedding wasn’t due to start for a while (the International Sales Director of Topshop’s wedding, none-the-less, lah-de-dah) so we had twenty-two minutes to zip round.
The Wapping Project is ‘an idea consistently in transition’ and is set in the Wapping Hydraulic Power Station. Its interior remains pretty much as it would have done when in commercial use, with power hydrants and various power station ephemera still clinging solidly to the floors, around which the space is managed. During the evenings, the main room is transformed into an a la carte restaurant, and said wedding looked pretty incredible.
In the lower, darker, damper room, the Ally Capellino exhibition occupies the entire space. The central exhibition, made from recycled doors and different types of wood, tells the story of this intriguing brand, encircled by portraits of various fashionistas modelling different luggage and apparel.
Ally Capellino is the baby and brainchild of Alison Lloyd, began in 1980 (obv, being its thirtieth birthday). It’s gone from being a very small operation to an acclaimed British leather label. In her own words, she’s gone from ‘young designer to old bag lady’ and this exhibition sees Alison take a nostalgic and sometimes ‘embarrassing’ trip down memory lane.
The essence of Ally Capellino is predominantly British, with sneaky and slight European influences – often the simple style of the Scandinavians. The choronilogical exhibition explains, in just the right amount of detail, the progression of the label year-on-year.. The focus is it’s creative bag and luggage range, with clothing peppered here and there.
The label was originally set up as a clothing brand, and some of the examples on display of early garments are a total treat. It’s only been the past ten years where the accessories have shone through and become the stronghold, but the label has produced some exciting and innovative clothing throughout its existence.
There were graphic patterns, floral prints and neat tailoring in the 1980s:
…While a more futuristic style came through in 1990s with clean lines and masculine shapes:
…and childrenswear has remained fun and hip, reflecting the styles of the mens and womenswear whilst remaining playful:
The focus of the exhibition is the ‘bag wall’ – a huge wall dedicated to said bags – a mixture of new styles and vintage examples sent in by dedicated followers of the brand. Each bag has it’s only story to tell and numbers attached to the bag link to a wall of numbered stories. The essence of the brand is it’s focus on quality – some of these bags, which appear relatively new, are twenty years old for God’s sake!
Rupert Blanchard is behind the recycled, industrial look of the exhibition, and he shares Alison’s ‘passion for salvage and dread of waste’ and nothing looks out of place in this historical landmark.
There’s also a great selection of press material and advertising spanning the whole Ally Capellino era, with some great menswear advertisements, photographic thumbnails, and Vogue featured-in cards:
What does the future hold for the brand? Well, more of the same, please. With a host of collaborations with the likes of the Tate galleries and Apple, I expect there’ll be more of this in the pipeline. And what to say of the bags? Well, hopefully these beautiful creations, in a variety of subtle leathers and complimentary materials, will be produced for years to come.
Head down to the exhibition fast because it’s not on for long – go on, you’ll have a whopping time, even if fashion’s not necessarily your bag. (With puns like these, I should really work in Wapping for a certain tabloid newspaper.)
If Laura Duret were to open a shop, buy Powder Room Vintage would be it’s name. At present, Laura holds the key to a vast collection of vintage clothing, accessories and small antiques, but hasn’t quite yet acquired the shop to display all her wares. So, in the meantime, Ms Duret is putting on events in glamorous locations, inviting local vintage dealers (including Gently Worn Vintage and Tizzy’s Vintage and Art) along to hold stalls and create evenings full of vintage splendour…
Rows upon rows of rails of ravishing dresses glittered the aisles of the grand hall at Hotel Du Vin. Tables full of delicately embroidered clutch-bags, clusters of diamante earrings and brooches steeped in sentiment lined the hall. Ladies of all ages eyed-up outfits from eras past, some held them up to their bodies and twirled in front of mirrors. Other younger fashion-conscious students plucked at pieces lost and found, content in the knowledge that their buys were unique, making them hungry for more…
‘There is not that much going on in the way of events that is open to every woman and appealing to all ages, so this seems to strike a cord with the subject of glamour as at the back of every womans’ mind is the desire to feel and look special,’ Laura explains.
A catwalk ensued, with delicately curved models sporting fabulously set victory curls and wearing demure dresses from the 40s and 50s. ‘My favourite eras are the 40s through to the early 50s, I love the whole look of the done hair, the fabulous rouge lips, the matching hat, bag and gloves, and the shapes that accentuated women in the most flattering of ways’, Laura says. ‘There are other eras I love but going back much further as a vintage dealer is difficult as pieces are less accessible as have not weathered so well with age.’
To top the evening off, a jaw- dropping performance from Burlesque dancer Felicity Fox left the crowds hot and woo-ing.
The next event will be held again at Hotel Du Vin in Tunbridge Wells on November 18th, so put it in your diaries and make sure you get down to Kent – (it’s not all doom and gloom down here) for some seriously fabulous vintage buys! For more information, email Laura here.
Photographs by Sophie Hill
Written by Sophie Hill on Monday July 12th, 2010 4:29 pm
This September London Fashion Week enters it’s third season within the courtyard of Somerset house. To enter the spirit of things Amelia’s Magazine will previewing on, sildenafil off schedules and the presentations, abortion naming the designers we think you should be keeping your eyes firmly on.
Here are Amelia’s Magazine’s ‘on schedule’ ones to watch.
Hannah Marshall – dark bold shapes, holding the tickets in our hands to HM’s SS10 collection (September 09) my colleague and I could barely contain our glee. Sitting down in the old post office building in Holborn Hannah’s models stalked through the space the inky blue errevensent in the dim lighting. AW 10 saw …. and …
Mary Katrantzou
Meeralee
Michael Van Der Haam’s Andy Warhol inspired designs influence were easily spotted in some of this year’s MA crop. For SS 11 Van Der Haam is presenting at ….
Louise Gray
I love Louise Gray – I love how her stalls in the New Gen exhibition section start off almost bare and before you know are infected with riotious colour as the exquisite detritus from her presentations take their place. For SS10 Gray presented both women and menswear occupying a small vault in Fashion East’s installation spaces. I am more than excited for her SS11 Catwalk Show.
Holly Fulton sharing a catwalk at … with David Koma, a designer Amelia’s Magazine was privy to his first two seasons presenting off schedule at ones to watch. (see previous coverage here and here)
Fashion East
Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha by Gareth A Hopkins
For the last six years Fashion East has reliably spotted recent graduates who go one to become sought after designers. This year’s crop sees Heikke Salone, Simone Rocha and Felicity Brown.
When my oldest pal Lydia announced her engagement and subsequent wedding, I struggled to imagine her having a generic do with a meringue dress and posed pictures. Her list of likes include folk and rock music, vintage fashion and living a sustainable day-to-day life. So it was no surprise when she declared that her wedding would take place in the woods.
I apologise in advance if this article may seem a little self-indulgent, and the truth is, it probably is. Well, sod it.
Lydia and Nathan’s day began at the local town hall, with a low key ceremony. I had been so nervous about my continous blubbing throughout, but as The Beatles’ Love Me Do skipped on an old portable CD player, my tears turned to laughter. Lydia entered in a floor length Grecian-inspired dress with an artificial pose of sunflowers. Blimey, these civil ceremonies don’t last long do they? Before I knew it, they were Mr and Mrs Collingham and we were ushered outside to pose on the lawn. (Is it a civil ceremony when you get married at a registry office? I hope so).
Anyway, the festivities began. Car-sharing had been arranged prior to the day (unfortunately there isn’t any easier way of getting around our small network of tiny villages) and guests had been discouraged from travelling from overseas. We arrived at the reception, set in our friend Alice’s beautiful garden. Lydia and Nathan are really fortunate to have such lovely friends who already take sustainability and climate change very seriously. The newlyweds had tried to create a festival vibe, whilst keeping carbon emisions to a minimum. We were all camping! A little camping area had been set up at the entrance to the woods, where tents had been pitched, and for a split second I could have been at any of the summer festivals – coloured tapers adorned the trees and homemade signs with directions had been painted.
Next up – food and booze. The food was incredible, and all locally sourced to reduce environmental impact. Organic elderflower champagne was provided as a reception drink, served with delicious vegan canapés. A delicious hog roast, provided by local butchers, was layed on for the meat eaters, but the menu was, by and large, vegan. Lydia’s mum had made a gorgeous mushroom en croute to accompany Ecoworks’ delicious selection of salads and nut roasts, and some of the vegatables had been sourced right here from the gardens!
Ecoworks is a community organisation based in Nottinghamshire with ‘the interests of people and the environment at its heart’. They work on conservation and restoration projects and run the FRESH project, which champions regeneration, education in sustainability and health.
They also run courses that encourage people to grow the good stuff and eat sustainably. Their Harvest Café van (a gorgeous converted vintage Citroën H van, no less) caters at festivals and events and specialises in vegetarian and vegan food, They provided spuds in the evening, with chilli or dahl, and a veggie breakfast the following day. I didn’t manage any of the latter because I had the world’s worst hangover, but I’m told it was a delight…
Lydia and Nathan’s dog Polly even managed to get in on the action, dressed to the nines in a ruffle of sunflowers…
Illustration of Polly by Naomi Law
I’m always hot for a Stella McCartney shoe – especially sourced on eBay at a bargain price. You can put the girl in the woods, but she’ll still wear hot shoes. AND Stella would have been proud. Sorry, I couldn’t resist… arrrrr!
And so, very quickly, the afternoon turned to the evening and it was time to party, after taking a visit to one of the garden’s many eco loos. A total shock for many, this was. Wails of ‘Is that really where I go to the bloody lav?’ could be heard in the camping area, but just about everybody got used to it pretty quickly. One guest, who shall remain nameless, was even caught photographing down one…
Hay bales covered in vintage blankets created space for guests to mingle, while the epicentre was The Dome.
This recycled space appeared like a vision of the future from the 1960s, and Alice’s mum kindly informed me that it used to operate as a swimming pool cover. It was in here that local live bands played, including the wonderful 10 O’clock Horses – a suitable blend of folk, rock, roots and punk. Lydia and Nathan had their first dance to this band’s first song (as I stood aghast) and then we all had a good ol’ jig.
Candles lit the gardens, which was a bit of a struggle to begin with but we all soon got used to it and danced into the small hours. And so after a few too many organic beers and far too much shameful dancing on my behalf, it was time for bed. What a fabulous, fabulous day.
We retired to our tents, and Lydia and Nathan skipped off to their tepee to consumate their marriage…
Lydia and Nathan in front of their teepee, photographed by Paul Saxby
I have no idea if they did or not.
Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday September 16th, 2010 2:04 pm
This September London Fashion Week enters it’s third season within the courtyard of Somerset house. To enter the spirit of things Amelia’s Magazine will previewing on, sildenafil off schedules and the presentations, abortion naming the designers we think you should be keeping your eyes firmly on.
Here are Amelia’s Magazine’s ‘on schedule’ ones to watch.
Hannah Marshall – dark bold shapes, holding the tickets in our hands to HM’s SS10 collection (September 09) my colleague and I could barely contain our glee. Sitting down in the old post office building in Holborn Hannah’s models stalked through the space the inky blue errevensent in the dim lighting. AW 10 saw …. and …
Mary Katrantzou
Meeralee
Michael Van Der Haam’s Andy Warhol inspired designs influence were easily spotted in some of this year’s MA crop. For SS 11 Van Der Haam is presenting at ….
Louise Gray
I love Louise Gray – I love how her stalls in the New Gen exhibition section start off almost bare and before you know are infected with riotious colour as the exquisite detritus from her presentations take their place. For SS10 Gray presented both women and menswear occupying a small vault in Fashion East’s installation spaces. I am more than excited for her SS11 Catwalk Show.
Holly Fulton sharing a catwalk at … with David Koma, a designer Amelia’s Magazine was privy to his first two seasons presenting off schedule at ones to watch. (see previous coverage here and here)
Fashion East
Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha by Gareth A Hopkins
For the last six years Fashion East has reliably spotted recent graduates who go one to become sought after designers. This year’s crop sees Heikke Salone, Simone Rocha and Felicity Brown.
When my oldest pal Lydia announced her engagement and subsequent wedding, I struggled to imagine her having a generic do with a meringue dress and posed pictures. Her list of likes include folk and rock music, vintage fashion and living a sustainable day-to-day life. So it was no surprise when she declared that her wedding would take place in the woods.
I apologise in advance if this article may seem a little self-indulgent, and the truth is, it probably is. Well, sod it.
Lydia and Nathan’s day began at the local town hall, with a low key ceremony. I had been so nervous about my continous blubbing throughout, but as The Beatles’ Love Me Do skipped on an old portable CD player, my tears turned to laughter. Lydia entered in a floor length Grecian-inspired dress with an artificial pose of sunflowers. Blimey, these civil ceremonies don’t last long do they? Before I knew it, they were Mr and Mrs Collingham and we were ushered outside to pose on the lawn. (Is it a civil ceremony when you get married at a registry office? I hope so).
Anyway, the festivities began. Car-sharing had been arranged prior to the day (unfortunately there isn’t any easier way of getting around our small network of tiny villages) and guests had been discouraged from travelling from overseas. We arrived at the reception, set in our friend Alice’s beautiful garden. Lydia and Nathan are really fortunate to have such lovely friends who already take sustainability and climate change very seriously. The newlyweds had tried to create a festival vibe, whilst keeping carbon emisions to a minimum. We were all camping! A little camping area had been set up at the entrance to the woods, where tents had been pitched, and for a split second I could have been at any of the summer festivals – coloured tapers adorned the trees and homemade signs with directions had been painted.
Next up – food and booze. The food was incredible, and all locally sourced to reduce environmental impact. Organic elderflower champagne was provided as a reception drink, served with delicious vegan canapés. A delicious hog roast, provided by local butchers, was layed on for the meat eaters, but the menu was, by and large, vegan. Lydia’s mum had made a gorgeous mushroom en croute to accompany Ecoworks’ delicious selection of salads and nut roasts, and some of the vegatables had been sourced right here from the gardens!
Ecoworks is a community organisation based in Nottinghamshire with ‘the interests of people and the environment at its heart’. They work on conservation and restoration projects and run the FRESH project, which champions regeneration, education in sustainability and health.
They also run courses that encourage people to grow the good stuff and eat sustainably. Their Harvest Café van (a gorgeous converted vintage Citroën H van, no less) caters at festivals and events and specialises in vegetarian and vegan food, They provided spuds in the evening, with chilli or dahl, and a veggie breakfast the following day. I didn’t manage any of the latter because I had the world’s worst hangover, but I’m told it was a delight…
Lydia and Nathan’s dog Polly even managed to get in on the action, dressed to the nines in a ruffle of sunflowers…
Illustration of Polly by Naomi Law
I’m always hot for a Stella McCartney shoe – especially sourced on eBay at a bargain price. You can put the girl in the woods, but she’ll still wear hot shoes. AND Stella would have been proud. Sorry, I couldn’t resist… arrrrr!
And so, very quickly, the afternoon turned to the evening and it was time to party, after taking a visit to one of the garden’s many eco loos. A total shock for many, this was. Wails of ‘Is that really where I go to the bloody lav?’ could be heard in the camping area, but just about everybody got used to it pretty quickly. One guest, who shall remain nameless, was even caught photographing down one…
Hay bales covered in vintage blankets created space for guests to mingle, while the epicentre was The Dome.
This recycled space appeared like a vision of the future from the 1960s, and Alice’s mum kindly informed me that it used to operate as a swimming pool cover. It was in here that local live bands played, including the wonderful 10 O’clock Horses – a suitable blend of folk, rock, roots and punk. Lydia and Nathan had their first dance to this band’s first song (as I stood aghast) and then we all had a good ol’ jig.
Candles lit the gardens, which was a bit of a struggle to begin with but we all soon got used to it and danced into the small hours. And so after a few too many organic beers and far too much shameful dancing on my behalf, it was time for bed. What a fabulous, fabulous day.
We retired to our tents, and Lydia and Nathan skipped off to their tepee to consumate their marriage…
Lydia and Nathan in front of their teepee, photographed by Paul Saxby
I have no idea if they did or not.
Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday September 16th, 2010 2:04 pm
From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, here Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.
Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label.
Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!”
Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them!
Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech.
You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made.
Illustration by Matilde Sazio
Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds.
You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones.
Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well!
Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see!
What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A.
What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…
Illustration by Emma Block
From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, more about Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.
Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, approved Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label.
Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, visit this how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!”
Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them!
Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech.
You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made.
Illustration by Matilde Sazio
Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds.
You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones.
Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well!
Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see!
What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A.
What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…
Illustration by Emma Block
From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, dosageDaisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.
Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label.
Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!”
Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them!
Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech.
You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made.
Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds.
You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones.
Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well!
Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see!
What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A.
What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…
If you’re feeling a bit delicate and would quite like to be wafted by a soft feathery fan type device, no rx as you contemplate, viagraMartha Tilston is for you. With songs entitled; Wild Swimming, Rockpools, Space and Firefly, she is all about sweet country and looking out from under the covers. But with the protection of delicate notes and kindness.
I first discovered Martha Tilston a few years ago and to be honest, I didn’t really want to tell anyone about her. She is my safety blanket and makes me feel at home. Back when she and I met, I had just left University in Cornwall and was at a loss as to what the hell to do next. My boyfriend and I moved to Bristol and temped for a hideous agency. All winter we were stuck working together inputting money off coupons for Tena Lady. Fabulous for any relationship. We’d cycle there, numb ourselves for eight hours, then cycle home. I kept a notebook by my desk and had my i pod streaming Tilston. I wrote loads in those endless, dark hours.
Then our bikes got stolen, we were laid off Tena Lady, our rented flat was put up for sale and I wrote even more. Tilston is good as a background to “Why is the world doing this to me?!” She restores faith. I give you Lucy:
Literally surrounded by art, Martha Tilston must have found it hard not be inspired as she grew up. She was born in the West Country and is the daughter of English folk singer, Steve Tilston. When her parents split, she moved to somewhere just outside London with her artist mother, who remarried a theatre director. As a teenager she would play the piano every night to the family. This led to Tilston writing songs and then picking up the guitar. Throughout she also visited Bristol, where her father and stepmother, Maggie Boyle– also a folk singer – lived. There she would spend time with folk legends like John Renbourn and Bert Jansch. Imagine! How could she not be arty?
In 2000, she formed a duo, Mouse, with guitarist Nick Marshall. Releasing two albums, they became extremely popular with the more underground loving, festival goers. However, Tilston decided to go solo in 2002, supporting Damien Rice on a tour in Ireland. Then in 2005, she released her first full length album, Blimbling on her own label Squiggly. This album holds Brighton Song, (which is where she was living at the time) a song I adore and makes me think about my years growing up in the hills next to the coastal city. Ah – nostalgia. Bimbling was funded by selling the original canvases she had painted to provide the artwork for the CD.
Tilston was nominated for Best New Act at the BBC Folk Awards in 2007. She has since become increasingly popular and has opened the Acoustic Stage at Glastonbury. However, she still loves impromptu and small shows. Her love of music outshining any desire for glitz. Her latest album Lucy and The Wolves, (Squiggly Records through Proper) is out now. It features her glorious band; The Woods, comprising of a host of instruments, including the mandolin, cello, violin and double bass. They truly add and compliment the atmospheric, delicate sound. Favourites include the aforementioned; Wild Swimming and Rockppols. The former, a slow, purposeful song full of delicious lust and feeling. The simile of liberating and beautiful night swimming, illustrating the purity of her love. Whilst Rockpools is also dedication to love and nature, it is centered more on her comfort found in the landscapes and nuggets of beauty. Eyes clapping on a tiny piece of peace, that at that second is shining only for you to see.
To summarise; Tilston is thought out, dancing on the hills, living in yurts complete with outdoor fires, English folk. If you like artists like Mary Hampton, Alela Diane and gentle Bellowhead, and you don’t know about Martha Tilston already, then you really should listen. If you don’t like folk, listen anyway, as she will make you feel wrapped up and safe on a blustery January day. Like today.
If you’re feeling a bit delicate and would quite like to be wafted by a soft feathery fan type device, look as you contemplate, adiposity Martha Tilston is for you. With songs entitled; Wild Swimming, more about Rockpools, Space and Firefly, she is all about sweet country and looking out from under the covers. But with the protection of delicate notes and kindness.
I first discovered Martha a few years ago and to be honest, I didn’t really want to tell anyone about her. She is my safety blanket and makes me feel at home. Back when she and I met, I had just left University in Cornwall and was at a loss as to what the hell to do next. My boyfriend and I moved to Bristol and temped for a hideous agency. All winter we were stuck working together inputting money off coupons for Tena Lady. Fabulous for any relationship. We’d cycle there, numb ourselves for eight hours, then cycle home. I kept a notebook by my desk and had my i pod streaming Martha. I wrote loads in those endless, dark hours.
Artifcial:
Then our bikes got stolen, we were laid off Tena Lady, our rented flat was put up for sale and I wrote even more. Martha is good as a background to “Why is the world doing this to me?!” She restores faith.
I give you Silver Dagger:
Literally surrounded by art, Martha Tilston must have found it hard not be inspired as she grew up. She was born in the West Country and is the daughter of English folk singer, Steve Tilston. When her parents split, she moved to somewhere just outside London with her artist mother, who remarried a theatre director. As a teenager she would play the piano every night to the family. This led to Martha writing songs and then picking up the guitar. Throughout she also visited Bristol, where her father and stepmother, Maggie Boyle- also a folk singer – lived. There she would spend time with folk legends like John Renbourn and Bert Jansch. Imagine! How could she not be arty?
In 2000, she formed a duo, Mouse, with guitarist Nick Marshall. Releasing two albums, they became extremely popular with the more underground loving, festival goers. However, Martha decided to go solo in 2002, supporting Damian Rice on a tour in Ireland. Then in 2005, she released her first full length album, Blimbling on her own label Squiggly. This album holds Brighton Song, (which is where she was living at the time) a song I adore and makes me think about my years growing up in the hills next to the coastal city. Ah – nostalgia. Bimbling was funded by selling the original canvases she had painted to provide the artwork for the CD.
Martha was nominated for Best New Act at the BBC Folk Awards in 2007. She has since become increasingly popular and has opened the Acoustic Stage at Glastonbury. However, she still loves impromptu and small shows. Her love of music outshining any desire for glitz.
Her latest album Lucy and the Wolves, (Squiggly Records through Proper) is out now. It features her glorious band; The Woods, comprising of a host of instruments, including the mandolin, cello, violin and double bass. They truly add and compliment the atmospheric, delicate sound. Favourites include the aforementioned; Wild Swimming and Rockppols. The former, a slow, purposeful song full of delicious lust and feeling. The simile of liberating and beautiful night swimming, illustrating the purity of her love. Whilst Rockpools is also dedication to love and nature, it is centered more on her comfort found in the landscapes and nuggets of beauty. Eyes clapping on a tiny piece of peace, that at that second is shining only for you to see.
To summarise; Martha is thought out, dancing on the hills, living in yurts complete with outdoor fires, English folk. If you like artists like Mary Hampton, Alela Diane and gentle Bellowhead, and you don’t know about Martha Tilston already, then you really should listen. If you don’t like folk, listen anyway, as she will make you feel wrapped up and safe on a blustery January day. Like today.
She is touring in May
If you’re feeling a bit delicate and would quite like to be wafted by a soft feathery fan type device, more about as you contemplate, look Martha Tilston is for you. With songs entitled; Wild Swimming, Rockpools, Space and Firefly, she is all about sweet country and looking out from under the covers. But with the protection of delicate notes and kindness.
I first discovered Martha a few years ago and to be honest, I didn’t really want to tell anyone about her. She is my safety blanket and makes me feel at home. Back when she and I met, I had just left University in Cornwall and was at a loss as to what the hell to do next. My boyfriend and I moved to Bristol and temped for a hideous agency. All winter we were stuck working together inputting money off coupons for Tena Lady. Fabulous for any relationship. We’d cycle there, numb ourselves for eight hours, then cycle home. I kept a notebook by my desk and had my i pod streaming Martha. I wrote loads in those endless, dark hours.
Artifcial:
Then our bikes got stolen, we were laid off Tena Lady, our rented flat was put up for sale and I wrote even more. Martha is good as a background to “Why is the world doing this to me?!” She restores faith.
I give you Silver Dagger:
Literally surrounded by art, Martha Tilston must have found it hard not be inspired as she grew up. She was born in the West Country and is the daughter of English folk singer, Steve Tilston. When her parents split, she moved to somewhere just outside London with her artist mother, who remarried a theatre director. As a teenager she would play the piano every night to the family. This led to Martha writing songs and then picking up the guitar. Throughout she also visited Bristol, where her father and stepmother, Maggie Boyle- also a folk singer – lived. There she would spend time with folk legends like John Renbourn and Bert Jansch. Imagine! How could she not be arty?
In 2000, she formed a duo, Mouse, with guitarist Nick Marshall. Releasing two albums, they became extremely popular with the more underground loving, festival goers. However, Martha decided to go solo in 2002, supporting Damian Rice on a tour in Ireland. Then in 2005, she released her first full length album, Blimbling on her own label Squiggly. This album holds Brighton Song, (which is where she was living at the time) a song I adore and makes me think about my years growing up in the hills next to the coastal city. Ah – nostalgia. Bimbling was funded by selling the original canvases she had painted to provide the artwork for the CD.
Martha was nominated for Best New Act at the BBC Folk Awards in 2007. She has since become increasingly popular and has opened the Acoustic Stage at Glastonbury. However, she still loves impromptu and small shows. Her love of music outshining any desire for glitz.
Her latest album Lucy and the Wolves, (Squiggly Records through Proper) is out now. It features her glorious band; The Woods, comprising of a host of instruments, including the mandolin, cello, violin and double bass. They truly add and compliment the atmospheric, delicate sound. Favourites include the aforementioned; Wild Swimming and Rockppols. The former, a slow, purposeful song full of delicious lust and feeling. The simile of liberating and beautiful night swimming, illustrating the purity of her love. Whilst Rockpools is also dedication to love and nature, it is centered more on her comfort found in the landscapes and nuggets of beauty. Eyes clapping on a tiny piece of peace, that at that second is shining only for you to see.
To summarise; Martha is thought out, dancing on the hills, living in yurts complete with outdoor fires, English folk. If you like artists like Mary Hampton, Alela Diane and gentle Bellowhead, and you don’t know about Martha Tilston already, then you really should listen. If you don’t like folk, listen anyway, as she will make you feel wrapped up and safe on a blustery January day. Like today.
She is touring in May
All Hipstamatic photography by Matt Bramford
For anybody that’s been under a rock for the past year, medicineHipstamatic is an iPhone app(lication) that converts your terrible phone camera into an analogue wonder (sort of). For the past year, no rx it has transformed the way we use phone cameras. Once a means of taking quick snaps of your mates having a pint, mind the Hipstamatic app has allowed everybody from Joe Public to professional photographers to capture beautiful images with speed and ease. Hipstamatic pictures now appear everywhere – on the front page of the New York Times, in fashion stories in magazines and on countless websites.
It was only a matter of time, then, that somebody would present an exhibition of Hipstamatic pictures (Jeez that H word is hard to type). The ‘Hipstamatics’ blog allows users from all over the world to submit their photographs and 157 of those submitted have been selected for this unique exhibition. 157, coincidentally, is the number of Hipstamatic 100 analogue cameras that were first produced by Bruce and Winston Dorbowski in the 1980s.
It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of Hipstamatic. It’s transformed the way I take photographs. I would never use the standard camera on the iPhone for photographs to use in posts here, but Hipstamatic allows myself and other contributors to take aesthetically pleasing photographs that perfectly capture whatever it is we’re talking about. There’s also Autostitch, but that’s another story/blog/exhibition…
So what to say of the exhibition? It’s certainly presented brilliantly. Small prints of 6″x6″ cover the walls of the intimate gallery, held up pegged to string. There’s a huge variety of photographs, including obligatory cat portraits, cityscapes, beach scenes, cups of tea, fashion portraits and everything in between. All 157, presented side by side, taken by 157 different people in 157 different places, look fantastic. The problem I have (and I’m aware that I’m bitter for not submitting any of my own) is that everybody can take a great picture with Hipstamatic. That’s the beauty of it. Of course, there’s a certain amount of skill involved and there are some great pictures here that I assume are by professional photographers, or at least people with a damn good eye. Cropping, lighting and subject have all been considered. They’re all brilliant. But I could have done that! Anybody could have!
The best way for me to judge the exhibition is get over myself and ignore the fact that I could have been one of the featured artists. Instead, I’m genuinely pleased that somebody decided to do it. It cements the phenomenon that Hipstamatic has generated. I also think it’s a bit of a social experiment as well as an exhibition. It’s a modern day Duchamp’s Readymades; it questions who and what we should put in a gallery. This is ordinary people using a revolutionary app to create stunning photographs that don’t look out of place at the side of some of the world’s greatest photographers. Of course, I’m sure the exhibition hasn’t launched to be taken so seriously. It’s wonderful to see so many images of a similar nature, from all over the world, side by side.
You do have to wonder though. Can you imagine going to a gallery to see a collection of phone camera pictures? I mean, I’m sure if Hirst or Emin or some other famous wally at the Saatchi Gallery did it we’d all flock to it, but can you really imagine what that might be like? Without the vintage quality of the app – its ghostly vignetting, chromatic aberration, muted colours and film-like texture, the majority of these would just be ordinary personal photographs.
It’s retinal art. There are no hidden meanings or artist’s thought processes, they’re a selection of beautiful pictures and it’s interesting to see how people have used the app in a number of different ways. You can also see, clearly, that each photograph has been considered much more than your typical holiday snap. Many are posed (including the reclining cat – one of my favourites) while others make use of unusual light or extraordinary objects.
The problem I have with Hipstamatic, which becomes clear from the exhibition when you print the images, is that the resolution isn’t wonderful. Some of them had obviously been shot on the lower setting (there are two, and the high-res images aren’t great either) and some images are a little pixelated when you get close up. As a collection, though, this isn’t such a problem – but in a way it reminds us that these are ephemeral photographs and, really, they wouldn’t stand up at the side of traditional film images.
In terms of artist integrity, the exhibition isn’t going to win any awards. But as a Hipstamatic fan, thank God the Hipstamatics have cemented, in this small but effective way, the power and phenomenon of Apple’s App of the Year 2010 in this mesmerising and thought-provoking exhibition. Long may it reign!
Written by Matt Bramford on Friday January 14th, 2011 6:13 pm
For anybody that’s been under a rock for the past year, Hipstamatic is an iPhone app(lication) that converts your terrible phone camera into an analogue wonder (sort of). For the past year, it has transformed the way we use phone cameras. Once a means of taking quick snaps of your mates having a pint, the Hipstamatic app has allowed everybody from Joe Public to professional photographers to capture beautiful images with speed and ease. Hipstamatic pictures now appear everywhere – on the front page of the New York Times, in fashion stories in magazines and on countless websites.
It was only a matter of time, then, that somebody would present an exhibition of Hipstamatic pictures (Jeez that H word is hard to type). The ‘Hipstamatics’ blog allows users from all over the world to submit their photographs and 157 of those submitted have been selected for this unique exhibition. 157, coincidentally, is the number of Hipstamatic 100 analogue cameras that were first produced by Bruce and Winston Dorbowski in the 1980s.
It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of Hipstamatic. It’s transformed the way I take photographs. I would never use the standard camera on the iPhone for photographs to use in posts here, but Hipstamatic allows myself and other contributors to take aesthetically pleasing photographs that perfectly capture whatever it is we’re talking about. There’s also Autostitch, but that’s another story/blog/exhibition…
So what to say of the exhibition? It’s certainly presented brilliantly. Small prints of 6″x6″ cover the walls of the intimate gallery, held up pegged to string. There’s a huge variety of photographs, including obligatory cat portraits, cityscapes, beach scenes, cups of tea, fashion portraits and everything in between. All 157, presented side by side, taken by 157 different people in 157 different places, look fantastic. The problem I have (and I’m aware that I’m bitter for not submitting any of my own) is that everybody can take a great picture with Hipstamatic. That’s the beauty of it. Of course, there’s a certain amount of skill involved and there are some great pictures here that I assume are by professional photographers, or at least people with a damn good eye. Cropping, lighting and subject have all been considered. They’re all brilliant. But I could have done that! Anybody could have!
The best way for me to judge the exhibition is get over myself and ignore the fact that I could have been one of the featured artists. Instead, I’m genuinely pleased that somebody decided to do it. It cements the phenomenon that Hipstamatic has generated. I also think it’s a bit of a social experiment as well as an exhibition. It’s a modern day Duchamp’s Readymades; it questions who and what we should put in a gallery. This is ordinary people using a revolutionary app to create stunning photographs that don’t look out of place at the side of some of the world’s greatest photographers. Of course, I’m sure the exhibition hasn’t launched to be taken so seriously. It’s wonderful to see so many images of a similar nature, from all over the world, side by side.
You do have to wonder though. Can you imagine going to a gallery to see a collection of phone camera pictures? I mean, I’m sure if Hirst or Emin or some other famous wally at the Saatchi Gallery did it we’d all flock to it, but can you really imagine what that might be like? Without the vintage quality of the app – its ghostly vignetting, chromatic aberration, muted colours and film-like texture, the majority of these would just be ordinary personal photographs.
It’s retinal art. There are no hidden meanings or artist’s thought processes, they’re a selection of beautiful pictures and it’s interesting to see how people have used the app in a number of different ways. You can also see, clearly, that each photograph has been considered much more than your typical holiday snap. Many are posed (including the reclining cat – one of my favourites) while others make use of unusual light or extraordinary objects.
The problem I have with Hipstamatic, which becomes clear from the exhibition when you print the images, is that the resolution isn’t wonderful. Some of them had obviously been shot on the lower setting (there are two, and the high-res images aren’t great either) and some images are a little pixelated when you get close up. As a collection, though, this isn’t such a problem – but in a way it reminds us that these are ephemeral photographs and, really, they wouldn’t stand up at the side of traditional film images.
In terms of artist integrity, the exhibition isn’t going to win any awards. But as a Hipstamatic fan, thank God the Hipstamatics have cemented, in this small but effective way, the power and phenomenon of Apple’s App of the Year 2010 in this mesmerising and thought-provoking exhibition. Long may it reign!
Written by Matt Bramford on Friday January 14th, 2011 6:13 pm
Georgina Woolford is clearly a lady after my own heart, for her degree show exhibition was all hipstamatic shots: the strongest of which was a candid shot of her elderly grandma, which also inspired the name, Reminiscing. Of course documentary photos of this type play to the strengths of shooting with a hipstamatic – it’s much easier to catch people off guard in natural repose when they haven’t got a great big lens shoved up in their face. I’m no photography snob so I’m all for choosing a certain format depending on the occasion or subject matter. Follow Georgina Woolford on twitter here.
I also liked a triptych shown by Stephanie Gilbert which showed some fairly mundane domestic scenes over the top of which there was overlaid some ominous creeping shadows, as if something not quite obvious was lurking just beyond reach in Family Affairs.
Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday June 20th, 2011 4:32 pm
