Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Esthetica Review


Illustration by Annejkh Carson
Partimi Dress by Joana Faria
Partimi by Joana Faria.

I probably shouldn’t do this because I actually don’t believe the ghettoisation of ethical designers is a particularly good thing, more about but for ease of storytelling in the grand scheme of things it makes sense to cover the interesting stuff I came across at Esthetica altogether. This is by no means all the stuff I loved, purchase but I’ll be covering others in my upcoming book Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration (with an ethical bent) so for now I’ll just stick to a few that may not have been covered on this blog before….

Martina Spetlova
The Centre for Sustainable Fashion were promoting the work of Martina Spetlova, prescription another MA graduate of Central Saint Martins who has a first degree in chemistry and has set up a fair trade embroidery network between women in Pakistan and designers in the UK. She creates clothes made of interchangeable panels and her recent collection features some interesting garments sponsored by waste from the YKK zip company. She is currently building relationships with mills to use more end of line products that are well suited to the small runs of high end designers, but I do wonder what happens once all that waste has been scooped up.

Somerset House SS2011 Martina Spetlova
Somerset House SS2011 Martina Spetlova
Somerset House SS2011 Martina Spetlova
Octavi Navarro - Martina Spetlova
Martina Spetlova by Octavi Navarro.

Little Glass Clementine
I was really pleased to see my friend Clemmie from Little Glass Clementine exhibiting at Esthetica for the first time. We’ve covered Clemmie before, both for her work drawing attention to the imperilled island of Tuvalu and for her beautifully made jewellery.

LFW SS2011 Little Glass Clementine

I feel quite proud that her necklaces, constructed from found objects and lovingly sourced vintage items, are now finding a much wider audience. Read an interview with her here.

LFW SS2011 Little Glass Clementine
LFW SS2011 Little Glass Clementine
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Sägen
Over in the Scandinavian corner I was most intrigued to discover the finely detailed work of Sägen, also showing at Esthetica for the first time. This is upcycling at it’s best – taking shards of old porcelain and reinvigorating them for a new life as a piece of delightful one off jewellery.

Somerset House SS2011 Sagen

Choose from twee rose patterns or more modern classic Scandinavian leaf designs, all set in nickel free silver. One massive downside: the website does not seem to cater to the English speaking customer, so one can only hope some UK based buyers have bought into the range.

sagen-katie-harnett
Sägen by Katie Harnett.

Nina Dolcetti
I tried on a pair of Nina Dolcetti bouncy platform shoes at Esthetica, and instantly fell in love… perhaps I could even ride a bike in a pair of these?? Inexplicably the head designer is not called Nina Dolcetti. Elisalex de Castro Peake is a Cordwainers graduate who launched her first upcycled shoe in September 2008 and the brand name Nina Dolcetti – meaning Little Sweets – comes from a combination of her nickname and her grandmother’s maiden name.

Somerset House SS2011 nina dolcetti
Somerset House SS2011 nina dolcetti
Somerset House SS2011 nina dolcetti

All shoes are made in a small factory run factory in East London from off cuts and pre-consumer waste, and she utilises only vegetable tanned leather and sustainably sourced cork and wood. So want a pair to bounce around in, but they’re a leetle bit pricey for me. Well worth it if you earn a decent wage though: I urge you to check them out.

LFW-Nina Dolcetti by Chris Morris
Nina Dolcetti by Chris Morris.

Partimi and Joanna Cave
I love Partimi‘s clean simple designs. Designer Eleanor Dorrien-Smith named her label after the architectural term parti, meaning the conceptual starting point for a project, and she makes beautiful wearable dresses adorned with simple graphic prints.

emma_block_partimi
Partimi by Emma Block.

This season she paid homage to costumes from Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes that her mother had collected at auction. I particularly loved her collaboration with ethical jewellery designer Joanna Cave, and am lusting after a pair of graphic cut out dangly earrings.

LFW SS2011 Partimi
Partimi Long dress by Joana Faria
Partimi earing by Joana Faria
Partimi by Joana Faria.

Oria
This jewellery range is the baby of creative duo Tania Kowalski and Synnove Saelthun, who have worked in the jewellery industry for a combined 25 years. Increasingly concerned wih the social and environmental impact of mining they created Oria in 2007 with an intention to make the supply chain transparent.

Somerset House SS2011 Oria

They source from fair-trade companies, all materials are traceable to point of origin and then the jewellery is made in their London studio. I love the delicate dangly cutout earrings featuring bees and birds.

Oria by Faye West
Oria by Faye West.

Michelle Lowe-Holder
I knew Michelle Lowe-Holder as a clothing designer, but after a break from the industry she’s decided to make a come back as an accessory designer. This was prompted by the realisation that she was always most interested in the details so she decided to be more sustainable and make use of the oodles of waste fabric from old collections – that she still has lying around in her studio – to create some stunning accessories: giant arm, neck and leg pieces are stacked to create dramatic silhouettes.

LFW SS2011 Michelle Lowe-Holder
LFW SS2011 Michelle Lowe-Holder
Michelle Lowe by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Michelle Lowe-Holder by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

From Somewhere
From Somewhere has been upcycling waste luxury materials since 1997, and as a bastion of sustainable fashion it was to designer Orsola de Castro that the BFC came when they wanted to set up Esthetica in 2006.

LFW SS2011 Orsola From Somewhere
Orsola de Castro.

This season she has been working with offcuts from Speedo to create a lovely limited edition capsule collection.

speedo_by Alia Gargum
Speedo From Somewhere collaboration by Alia Gargum.

Made
Having just returned from a Fashion Business Club get together with the unexpectedly lucid Laura Bailey I thought I would also mention Made, a jewellery brand “by the people for the people” that is reasonably well known thanks to some high profile branding and wide distribution. They are big on their “designer” collaborations, though not designers I’ve ever heard of: since when was Laura Bailey a jewellery designer anyway? Boy do I want her job. I’m not a massive fan of a lot of their stuff (looks wise), but they do undeniably good things by providing trade for impoverished communities in Africa.

made by natsuki otani
Made by Natsuki Otani.

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Centre for Sustainable Fashion, ,Cordwainers, ,Ecofashion, ,Elisalex de Castro Peake, ,Emma Block, ,esthetica, ,ethical design, ,Fashion Business Club, ,Faye West, ,From Somewhere, ,jewellery, ,Joanna Cave, ,Katie Harnett, ,Laura Bailey, ,Little Glass Clementine, ,MADE, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Michelle Lowe-Holder, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Octavi Navarro, ,Oria, ,Orsola De Castro, ,Partimi, ,recycling, ,Sägen Butik, ,scandinavia, ,shoes, ,Speedo, ,sustainability, ,Synnove Saelthun, ,Tania Kowalski, ,Tuvalu, ,Upcycling, ,YKK

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Esthetica Review


Illustration by Annejkh Carson
Partimi Dress by Joana Faria
Partimi by Joana Faria.

I probably shouldn’t do this because I actually don’t believe the ghettoisation of ethical designers is a particularly good thing, more about but for ease of storytelling in the grand scheme of things it makes sense to cover the interesting stuff I came across at Esthetica altogether. This is by no means all the stuff I loved, purchase but I’ll be covering others in my upcoming book Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration (with an ethical bent) so for now I’ll just stick to a few that may not have been covered on this blog before….

Martina Spetlova
The Centre for Sustainable Fashion were promoting the work of Martina Spetlova, prescription another MA graduate of Central Saint Martins who has a first degree in chemistry and has set up a fair trade embroidery network between women in Pakistan and designers in the UK. She creates clothes made of interchangeable panels and her recent collection features some interesting garments sponsored by waste from the YKK zip company. She is currently building relationships with mills to use more end of line products that are well suited to the small runs of high end designers, but I do wonder what happens once all that waste has been scooped up.

Somerset House SS2011 Martina Spetlova
Somerset House SS2011 Martina Spetlova
Somerset House SS2011 Martina Spetlova
Octavi Navarro - Martina Spetlova
Martina Spetlova by Octavi Navarro.

Little Glass Clementine
I was really pleased to see my friend Clemmie from Little Glass Clementine exhibiting at Esthetica for the first time. We’ve covered Clemmie before, both for her work drawing attention to the imperilled island of Tuvalu and for her beautifully made jewellery.

LFW SS2011 Little Glass Clementine

I feel quite proud that her necklaces, constructed from found objects and lovingly sourced vintage items, are now finding a much wider audience. Read an interview with her here.

LFW SS2011 Little Glass Clementine
LFW SS2011 Little Glass Clementine
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Sägen
Over in the Scandinavian corner I was most intrigued to discover the finely detailed work of Sägen, also showing at Esthetica for the first time. This is upcycling at it’s best – taking shards of old porcelain and reinvigorating them for a new life as a piece of delightful one off jewellery.

Somerset House SS2011 Sagen

Choose from twee rose patterns or more modern classic Scandinavian leaf designs, all set in nickel free silver. One massive downside: the website does not seem to cater to the English speaking customer, so one can only hope some UK based buyers have bought into the range.

sagen-katie-harnett
Sägen by Katie Harnett.

Nina Dolcetti
I tried on a pair of Nina Dolcetti bouncy platform shoes at Esthetica, and instantly fell in love… perhaps I could even ride a bike in a pair of these?? Inexplicably the head designer is not called Nina Dolcetti. Elisalex de Castro Peake is a Cordwainers graduate who launched her first upcycled shoe in September 2008 and the brand name Nina Dolcetti – meaning Little Sweets – comes from a combination of her nickname and her grandmother’s maiden name.

Somerset House SS2011 nina dolcetti
Somerset House SS2011 nina dolcetti
Somerset House SS2011 nina dolcetti

All shoes are made in a small factory run factory in East London from off cuts and pre-consumer waste, and she utilises only vegetable tanned leather and sustainably sourced cork and wood. So want a pair to bounce around in, but they’re a leetle bit pricey for me. Well worth it if you earn a decent wage though: I urge you to check them out.

LFW-Nina Dolcetti by Chris Morris
Nina Dolcetti by Chris Morris.

Partimi and Joanna Cave
I love Partimi‘s clean simple designs. Designer Eleanor Dorrien-Smith named her label after the architectural term parti, meaning the conceptual starting point for a project, and she makes beautiful wearable dresses adorned with simple graphic prints.

emma_block_partimi
Partimi by Emma Block.

This season she paid homage to costumes from Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes that her mother had collected at auction. I particularly loved her collaboration with ethical jewellery designer Joanna Cave, and am lusting after a pair of graphic cut out dangly earrings.

LFW SS2011 Partimi
Partimi Long dress by Joana Faria
Partimi earing by Joana Faria
Partimi by Joana Faria.

Oria
This jewellery range is the baby of creative duo Tania Kowalski and Synnove Saelthun, who have worked in the jewellery industry for a combined 25 years. Increasingly concerned wih the social and environmental impact of mining they created Oria in 2007 with an intention to make the supply chain transparent.

Somerset House SS2011 Oria

They source from fair-trade companies, all materials are traceable to point of origin and then the jewellery is made in their London studio. I love the delicate dangly cutout earrings featuring bees and birds.

Oria by Faye West
Oria by Faye West.

Michelle Lowe-Holder
I knew Michelle Lowe-Holder as a clothing designer, but after a break from the industry she’s decided to make a come back as an accessory designer. This was prompted by the realisation that she was always most interested in the details so she decided to be more sustainable and make use of the oodles of waste fabric from old collections – that she still has lying around in her studio – to create some stunning accessories: giant arm, neck and leg pieces are stacked to create dramatic silhouettes.

LFW SS2011 Michelle Lowe-Holder
LFW SS2011 Michelle Lowe-Holder
Michelle Lowe by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Michelle Lowe-Holder by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

From Somewhere
From Somewhere has been upcycling waste luxury materials since 1997, and as a bastion of sustainable fashion it was to designer Orsola de Castro that the BFC came when they wanted to set up Esthetica in 2006.

LFW SS2011 Orsola From Somewhere
Orsola de Castro.

This season she has been working with offcuts from Speedo to create a lovely limited edition capsule collection.

speedo_by Alia Gargum
Speedo From Somewhere collaboration by Alia Gargum.

Made
Having just returned from a Fashion Business Club get together with the unexpectedly lucid Laura Bailey I thought I would also mention Made, a jewellery brand “by the people for the people” that is reasonably well known thanks to some high profile branding and wide distribution. They are big on their “designer” collaborations, though not designers I’ve ever heard of: since when was Laura Bailey a jewellery designer anyway? Boy do I want her job. I’m not a massive fan of a lot of their stuff (looks wise), but they do undeniably good things by providing trade for impoverished communities in Africa.

made by natsuki otani
Made by Natsuki Otani.

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Centre for Sustainable Fashion, ,Cordwainers, ,Ecofashion, ,Elisalex de Castro Peake, ,Emma Block, ,esthetica, ,ethical design, ,Fashion Business Club, ,Faye West, ,From Somewhere, ,jewellery, ,Joanna Cave, ,Katie Harnett, ,Laura Bailey, ,Little Glass Clementine, ,MADE, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Michelle Lowe-Holder, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Octavi Navarro, ,Oria, ,Orsola De Castro, ,Partimi, ,recycling, ,Sägen Butik, ,scandinavia, ,shoes, ,Speedo, ,sustainability, ,Synnove Saelthun, ,Tania Kowalski, ,Tuvalu, ,Upcycling, ,YKK

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Amelia’s Magazine | Christmas Gift Ideas 2012: Best Design Gifts For Women

by hand london elisalex dress
The Elisalex dress from By Hand London.
Looking for some last minute gift ideas to please the lady who loves good design, handmade goods and occasionally creating her own? Well go no further…

It was with much happiness that I ran into Elisalex de Castro Peake at the recent East London Design Show – daughter of ethical fashion doyenne Orsola de Castro and one time creator of ethical shoe brand Nina Dolcetti – Elisalex is back with a brand new project based on her love of hand sewing. Easy to follow patterns come in a lovely box designed by business partner Charlotte Hintzen.

by hand london charlotte skirt
The first two patterns available are classic shapes named after the founders, and they will be adding to these soon. In the meantime if someone is kind enough to buy you the fab peplum skirt pattern, then why not join the Charlotte skirt sewalong in the New Year? For those who are novices to sewing the site includes ace tutorials such as how to make a DIY skirt.

Lauren Baker skull Frankie
Some of Lauren Baker‘s more extravagant creations might require you to remortgage your home, but this artwork is reasonably priced. Frankie, above, was inspired by the Mexican Day of the Dead. He is cast from a human skull and then painstakingly hand decorated with beads and acrylic.

TOFT crochet_hippo_amigurumi_pattern
At the Toft Alpaca Shop find a one stop shop to buy the yarns and the designs to create cute crocheted Amigurumi toys – or commission their crafters to make one of the little guys for you.

Bianca Green BOLD iphone cover
On the gadget front this gorgeous abstract BOLD design by Bianca Green fits perfectly into our ongoing love affair with all things tribal.

dom and ink iphone skin ophelia
Or go for something a bit more illustrative: how about contributor Dom & Ink‘s fabulous portrait of Ophelia on an iphone skin? It’s bound to be a talking point.

Batter My Heart Dom and Ink
dom and ink batter my heart zine
dom and ink batter my heart zine
I’m also loving Dom & Ink‘s Batter My Heart zine – chock full of great illustrations, wry observations and insights on the theme of relationships. It’s guaranteed to appeal to anyone who is or has been heartbroken.

Rebecca Desnos Petal Scarf Wrapped
On an eco conscious tip take a look at these beautifully crafted bamboo scarves by Rebecca Desnos: each geometric design is handmade with plant dyes using a Japanese technique called Shibori.

lowie fingerless gloves
And I adore these eye catching merino wool fingerless gloves by ethical woollen brand Lowie. They are decorated with an interesting thistle design and are long enough to cover your entire wrist area for extra warmth.

chelsea doll Red Heart Bobble Trapper Hat
On the more affordable front, I really love this cute woollen trapper hat with fleecy lining at Chelsea Doll.

thriftola lola hanger
Leona runs Thriftola, a website dedicated to bringing you the best in vintage gems. She was formerly the brains behind much loved jewellery brand Lady Luck Rules OK and she has finally decided to make a new product: meet Lola. Lola is a stylish hand illustrated clothes hanger designed to showcase your favourite garment to perfection.

COCO BOHEME RECYCLED CARDBOARD ANIMAL HANGER
Or if you fancy something a bit sillier you could look to these Coco Boheme hangers, made out of strong recycled cardboard and printed in environmentally friendly ink.

emma hamshare
Fashion brand äelska specialises in beautifully made collars, and I absolutely adore this buttery soft sequinned version that would look great with a party outfit, here modelled by creator Emma Hamshare, who once upon a time helped make Amelia’s Magazine in print.

carmen woods clutch
For bag fans look no further than the new range of British made goods by Carmen Woods, all made using the finest leathers. I love the bright pattern on this clutch.

Kelly Moore Libby Camera Bag
And for the serious photography fan, check out these newly discovered Kelly Moore camera bags: incredibly stylish totes to keep your equipment safe. Above is the Kelly Moore Libby Camera Bag. So want one to cart my SLR around in during LFW!

pumpkin sputnk notebook betty
Thinking about some luxury stationery? How about this gorgeous hand stitched journal, which comes with a timeless photographic hydrangea design, by Pumpkin Sputnik.

Melly bee notebookswrapped
Or something simpler: Mellybee makes slim pocket-sized notebooks, screenprinted by hand onto 100% recycled card with a delightful anchor design.

Who Runs the World Girls by Studio Her
Finally and by no means least, may I draw your attention to this genius screenprint from Studio Her? It first caught my eye at Sarah Julia Clark‘s graduate exhibition and she was kind enough to send me one in all its golden feminist glory: now you or your loved one can own your very own version for she has finally set up an online Studio Her shop. Hell yeah: Beyonce for the wall!

Categories ,2012, ,äelska, ,Amigurumi, ,art, ,Batter My Heart, ,beyonce, ,Camera Bags, ,Carmen Woods, ,Charlotte Hintzen, ,Chelsea Doll, ,Christmas, ,Coco Boheme, ,Day of the Dead, ,design, ,Dom & Ink, ,East London Design Show, ,Elisalex de Castro Peake, ,Emma Hamshare, ,fashion, ,Frankie, ,gifts, ,Kelly Moore, ,Lady Luck Rules OK, ,Lauren Baker, ,Leona, ,Lola, ,Lowie, ,Mellybee, ,Mexican, ,mosaic, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Ophelia, ,Orsola Castro, ,Orsola De Castro, ,Pumpkin Sputnik, ,Rebecca Desnos, ,Sarah Julia Clark, ,Shibori, ,SLR, ,Studio Her, ,Thriftola, ,Toft Alpaca Shop

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Amelia’s Magazine | Christmas Gift Ideas 2012: Best Design Gifts For Women

by hand london elisalex dress
The Elisalex dress from By Hand London.
Looking for some last minute gift ideas to please the lady who loves good design, handmade goods and occasionally creating her own? Well go no further…

It was with much happiness that I ran into Elisalex de Castro Peake at the recent East London Design Show – daughter of ethical fashion doyenne Orsola de Castro and one time creator of ethical shoe brand Nina Dolcetti – Elisalex is back with a brand new project based on her love of hand sewing. Easy to follow patterns come in a lovely box designed by business partner Charlotte Hintzen.

by hand london charlotte skirt
The first two patterns available are classic shapes named after the founders, and they will be adding to these soon. In the meantime if someone is kind enough to buy you the fab peplum skirt pattern, then why not join the Charlotte skirt sewalong in the New Year? For those who are novices to sewing the site includes ace tutorials such as how to make a DIY skirt.

Lauren Baker skull Frankie
Some of Lauren Baker’s more extravagant creations might require you to remortgage your home, but this artwork is reasonably priced. Frankie, above, was inspired by the Mexican Day of the Dead. He is cast from a human skull and then painstakingly hand decorated with beads and acrylic.

TOFT crochet_hippo_amigurumi_pattern
At the Toft Alpaca Shop find a one stop shop to buy the yarns and the designs to create cute crocheted Amigurumi toys – or commission their crafters to make one of the little guys for you.

Bianca Green BOLD iphone cover
On the gadget front this gorgeous abstract BOLD design by Bianca Green fits perfectly into our ongoing love affair with all things tribal.

dom and ink iphone skin ophelia
Or go for something a bit more illustrative: how about contributor Dom & Ink’s fabulous portrait of Ophelia on an iphone skin? It’s bound to be a talking point.

Batter My Heart Dom and Ink
dom and ink batter my heart zine
dom and ink batter my heart zine
I’m also loving Dom & Ink’s Batter My Heart zine – chock full of great illustrations, wry observations and insights on the theme of relationships. It’s guaranteed to appeal to anyone who is or has been heartbroken.

Rebecca Desnos Petal Scarf Wrapped
On an eco conscious tip take a look at these beautifully crafted bamboo scarves by Rebecca Desnos: each geometric design is handmade with plant dyes using a Japanese technique called Shibori.

lowie fingerless gloves
And I adore these eye catching merino wool fingerless gloves by ethical woollen brand Lowie. They are decorated with an interesting thistle design and are long enough to cover your entire wrist area for extra warmth.

chelsea doll Red Heart Bobble Trapper Hat
On the more affordable front, I really love this cute woollen trapper hat with fleecy lining at Chelsea Doll.

thriftola lola hanger
Leona runs Thriftola, a website dedicated to bringing you the best in vintage gems. She was formerly the brains behind much loved jewellery brand Lady Luck Rules OK and she has finally decided to make a new product: meet Lola. Lola is a stylish hand illustrated clothes hanger designed to showcase your favourite garment to perfection.

COCO BOHEME RECYCLED CARDBOARD ANIMAL HANGER
Or if you fancy something a bit sillier you could look to these Coco Boheme hangers, made out of strong recycled cardboard and printed in environmentally friendly ink.

emma hamshare
Fashion brand äelska specialises in beautifully made collars, and I absolutely adore this buttery soft sequinned version that would look great with a party outfit, here modelled by creator Emma Hamshare, who once upon a time helped make Amelia’s Magazine in print.

carmen woods clutch
For bag fans look no further than the new range of British made goods by Carmen Woods, all made using the finest leathers. I love the bright pattern on this clutch.

Kelly Moore Libby Camera Bag
And for the serious photography fan, check out these newly discovered Kelly Moore camera bags: incredibly stylish totes to keep your equipment safe. Above is the Kelly Moore Libby Camera Bag. So want one to cart my SLR around in during LFW!

pumpkin sputnk notebook betty
Thinking about some luxury stationery? How about this gorgeous hand stitched journal, which comes with a timeless photographic hydrangea design, by Pumpkin Sputnik.

Melly bee notebookswrapped
Or something simpler: Mellybee makes slim pocket-sized notebooks, screenprinted by hand onto 100% recycled card with a delightful anchor design.

Who Runs the World Girls by Studio Her
Finally and by no means least, may I draw your attention to this genius screenprint from Studio Her? It first caught my eye at Sarah Julia Clark’s graduate exhibition and she was kind enough to send me one in all its golden feminist glory: now you or your loved one can own your very own version for she has finally set up an online Studio Her shop. Hell yeah: Beyonce for the wall!

Categories ,2012, ,äelska, ,Amigurumi, ,art, ,Batter My Heart, ,beyonce, ,Camera Bags, ,Carmen Woods, ,Charlotte Hintzen, ,Chelsea Doll, ,Christmas, ,Coco Boheme, ,Day of the Dead, ,design, ,Dom & Ink, ,East London Design Show, ,Elisalex de Castro Peake, ,Emma Hamshare, ,fashion, ,Frankie, ,gifts, ,Kelly Moore, ,Lady Luck Rules OK, ,Lauren Baker, ,Leona, ,Lola, ,Lowie, ,Mellybee, ,Mexican, ,mosaic, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Ophelia, ,Orsola Castro, ,Orsola De Castro, ,Pumpkin Sputnik, ,Rebecca Desnos, ,Sarah Julia Clark, ,Shibori, ,SLR, ,Studio Her, ,Thriftola, ,Toft Alpaca Shop

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