Amelia’s Magazine | Alternative Fashion Week 2010 at Spitalfields Market: more from Day 4

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Nicole Gill
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

By Day 4 at Alternative Fashion Week things start to go a little hazy – and the other bloggers who were so keen earlier in the week seem to have all gone quiet so it’s much harder for me to cross check my facts and be sure that I have the right credits for the right designers. Do let me know if I’ve got it wrong or I’ve missed out a link.

As I arrived a bevy of scantily clad beauties were lining up for a photo call at the back of one of the dressing tents. They were modelling the lingerie designs of Nicole Gill, approved cure whose collection was described as being inspired by the Balinese Barong dance, symptoms whatever that is. Now, I’m no specialist on Balinese culture but I’m fairly certain that they don’t dance in their underwear or wear corsets. Non obvious influences aside, these were sexy pieces for sure. Bemused labourers looked on.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Nicole Gill
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Nicole Gill
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Nicole Gill
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Nicole Gill
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Nicole Gill
Lingerie by Nicole Gill.

Inside Crispin Place Alex Seroge was ready to go, lined up with his models in an imposing group. Apparently an amalgamation of middle eastern and Persian influences, there was also something of the Edwardian country squire-ess to this collection, which mixed tweeds with exotic head wraps and prints in every shade of spice.

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Alex Seroge
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Alex Seroge
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Alex Seroge
Alex Seroge.

Next up with a fabulously-over-the-top-despite-being-all-cream collection of big knitwear was George Strood; props to her models for posing so perfectly with the shaggy knitted bag. And loving the shaggy trousers, inspired by Mr Tomlinson, the fawn in Narnia?

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 George Strood
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 George Strood
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 george Strood
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 George Strood
Knitwear by George Strood.

The University of Derby passed by without me particularly noticing – apart from this one fabulous piece, like a wearable lampshade made from a giant spidersweb. Judging by the silver make up I think the boy in the pink may have been part of the collection too.

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Derby
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Derby
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Derby

Barnet College also showed with Zero Waste – from the title I can only presume it was all recycled. I liked this lady because as she was standing on the steps waiting to go onto the catwalk I realised that she had a cupcake tattoo on her bum. Taking the fetishising of cupcakes to a whole new level!

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Barnet
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Barnet
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Barnet
Check the cupcake on arse!

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Barnet
Barnet College.

I found the sports menswear collection by Thomas Lovegrove unoriginal. When Kim Jones first put the bright back into menswear a decade ago it was smart and new, but now it just looks tired and done. You can find sportswear like this in any high street shop these days.

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Thomas Lovegrove

Alice Barcham paraded a collection of tailored whites inspired by the Sydney Opera House crossed with Audrey Hepburn and LuaSarcy showed some dreadful wedding wear. Well, not dreadful, but just weddingy. i.e. not very exciting. Certainly not what I would call fashion at any rate.

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Alice Barcham
Alice Barcham.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 LuaSarcy
LuaSarcy.

On the knitwear front Gemma Maher showed a delightfully understated collection called Firebird, inspired by the ballet apparently. Can you see the connection? Not sure I can but anyhoo.

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Gemma Maher
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Gemma Maher
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Gemma Maher
Gemma Maher.

At the nearby Brady Centre in Tower Hamlets a team of designers had been beavering away under the name A Team Arts and for awhile it all went a little crazy backstage. What I could deduce was theirs was quite frankly bonkers. A tiny innocuous looking blonde girl stood by her three crazy orange and brown outfits featuring pop-sock festooned polystyrene balls growing carbuncle-like in every direction.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

To continue the costume design theme someone had decided to turn men into dragons, with one poor model entirely covered in what can only be described as a large knitted spotty body sock. The poor fella inside mumbled something to me about having been street cast and not knowing what he had let himself in for, but hey what the heck no one was going to see his face.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

This wee girl was not so keen on having her picture taken, but she’d created some pretty amazing jewellery/accessory pieces out of laser cut shapes.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

Someone chose to subvert traditional English tailoring, another designer created some stunning purple and green tailored dresses, and Lorraine’s batik Afrochic outfit was worn by the most amazing model – check out her absolutely loving up the camera. A photographer’s dream. Below are a few more shots too that I presume come from that creative Brady Centre bunch.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

Elif Muzaffer hails from Turkey, but graduated from Ravensbourne last year having specialised in womenswear and textiles. Titled A Struggle Within, a love of print was obvious in this elegantly presented collection of tailored coats and long ballgowns worn by willowy models. I loved the colour range, all deep juicy oranges and sultry shades of deep blue and violet. Elif emailed me to thank me for my interest that evening and wisely set up a blog last week after I queried how I could link to more of her work. Take note, other designers that I am struggling to write about!

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Elif Muzzafer with her girls. Definitely one to watch.

Renata Suchanova not only has a wonderful name but her website sports a pretty fabulous collection of purple clothing. It’s a shame I can’t find any snaps of her collection at Alternative Fashion Week – did I miss it? Was it incredibly different? I’ll probably never know…

Serbian Mila Popovic was found cursing the volcano – she had travelled overland to make the catwalk on time and was sounding harassed. Next to her the make up artist Maya was sporting the most fabulous henna arm tattoos. I liked Mila’s eclectic collection The Flowers of Romance which is co-designed with sister Tijana, and featured bright patterns mixed with traditional tailoring. According to the little booklet she raced off to find for me their Cash for Trash showroom promotes “eko design” though I am not sure in what way.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Popovic
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 make up designer maya

UCreative from the University for the Creative Arts in Rochester closed the day with Metamorphosis/Transformation and another flurry of young girls in a melange of creamy ruffles. Make up artist Phoebe Dalziel explained that she used lace to spray paint directly onto the faces of the models.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Rochester
Rochester Girls. I used to teach down there. Once upon a time.
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

At the nearby Brady Centre in Tower Hamlets a team of designers have been beavering away under the name A Team Arts and for awhile it all went a little crazy backstage on day 4 of Alternative Fashion Week. What I could deduce was theirs was quite frankly bonkers. A tiny innocuous looking blonde girl stood by her three crazy orange and brown outfits featuring pop-sock festooned polystyrene balls growing carbuncle-like in every direction.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

To continue the costume design theme someone had decided to turn men into dragons, cialis 40mg with one poor model entirely covered in what can only be described as a large knitted spotty body sock. The poor fella inside mumbled something to me about having been street cast and not knowing what he had let himself in for, but hey what the heck no one was going to see his face.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

This wee girl was not so keen on having her picture taken, but she’d created some pretty amazing jewellery/accessory pieces out of laser cut shapes.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Gemma Maher

Lorraine’s batik Afrochic outfit was worn by the most amazing model – check out her absolutely loving up the camera. A photographer’s dream.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

I presume the pieces below all come from that creative Brady Centre bunch. From subverted English tailoring to bold fitted dresses, there was much to admire in this group.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Brady Centre

Elif Muzaffer hails from Turkey, but graduated from Ravensbourne last year having specialised in womenswear and textiles. Titled A Struggle Within, a love of print was obvious in this elegantly presented collection of tailored coats and long ballgowns worn by willowy models. I loved the colour range, all deep juicy oranges and sultry shades of deep blue and violet. Elif emailed me to thank me for my interest that evening and wisely set up a blog last week after I queried how I could link to more of her work. Take note, other designers that I am struggling to write about!

Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 Elif Muzzafer
Elif Muzzafer with her girls. Definitely one to watch.

Renata Suchanova not only has a wonderful name but her website sports a pretty fabulous collection of purple clothing. It’s a shame I can’t find any snaps of her collection at Alternative Fashion Week – did I miss it? Was it incredibly different? I’ll probably never know…

Serbian Mila Popovic was found cursing the volcano – she had travelled overland to make the catwalk on time and was sounding harassed. Next to her the make up artist Maya was sporting the most fabulous henna arm tattoos. I liked Mila’s eclectic collection The Flowers of Romance which is co-designed with sister Tijana, and featured bright patterns mixed with traditional tailoring. According to the little booklet she raced off to find for me their Cash for Trash showroom promotes “eko design” though I am not sure in what way.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Popovic
Alternative Fashion Week day 4 2010 make up designer maya

UCreative from the University for the Creative Arts in Rochester closed the day with Metamorphosis/Transformation and another flurry of young girls in a melange of creamy ruffles. Make up artist Phoebe Dalziel explained that she used lace to spray paint directly onto the faces of the models.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 UCreative Rochester
Alternative Fashion Week Day 4 2010 Rochester
Rochester Girls. I used to teach on the fashion promotion course down there. Once upon a time.

Day 4 got so out of control that I have split it into two parts: you can read part one of this post here.
You can read up on day 2 here and day 3 here.

Categories ,Alternative Fashion Week, ,Brady Centre, ,Elif Muzaffer, ,ravensbourne, ,Renata Suchanova, ,Rochester, ,spitalfields, ,Tijana and Mila Popovic, ,Tower Hamlets, ,UCreative, ,University for the Creative Arts

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Amelia’s Magazine | Little Dragon – ‘Test’

A friend of mine recently asked me, stomach story “What is it with Swedish bands and ‘heartbeat’? Both Annie and Robyn have tracks called ‘Heartbeat’, stuff while The Knife wanted to be different and called a track ‘Heartbeats’.” Now, obviously the track I’m about to review is not called ‘Heartbeat’ or even ‘Heartbeats’, but the fact that my British friend could not only name three contemporary Swedish groups but also three of their songs without feeling as if he was exposing a guilty pleasure indicates how much our opinion Swedish music has changed (Ace of Base, anyone?).

Little Dragon
are more Dance-orientated and a good deal less retro than the ‘Heartbeat-ers’, but still know how to craft a Pop song you can be proud to love. ‘Test’ opens with a clanging not dissimilar to the 1950s musique concrete of Stockhausen, as if to remind the listener of electronica’s avant-garde origins, before immediately introducing today’s most irreverent application of such Classical techniques: the 4/4 Dance beat. Punctuated by the most minimal Ska-styled guitar/keyboard I’ve ever encountered (is that just one note?), driven by a Dub-bassline that becomes beautifully indistiguishable from the kick drum and featuring a Jazz interlude, like all great Pop songs ‘Test’ shamelessly steals from the best.

However, the undeniable highlight of the track is singer Yukimi. Recalling Matthew Herbert’s work with Dani Siciliano, her multitracked laidback delivery effortlessly transports the listener to the centre of a dancefloor at an indeterminate post-midnight hour. Soulful without forced vocal gymnastics and Bluesy without being cliched, much like the music itself, her voice is able to take in all that 20th century music had to offer and exhale something cohesive, contemporary and copious.

A chic dancefloor-filler.

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration: Open Design Brief

BoraAksu_gemma-milly
Bora Aksu A/W 2010 by Gemma Milly. See original post here.

***Please note that this brief is now closed: you can now order a copy of this book online by clicking here***

Well, what is ed it’s that time of year. I’m about to put together another book, more about which will hopefully hit the bookshops shortly before Christmas 2010. In the spirit of my last book, Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, my new book will take a look at two things: inspired by some of the fantastic work that illustrators have been producing for the fashion section of Amelia’s Magazine online it will be a must-buy guide to the best up and coming fashion illustrators working today, and it will also, to a lesser degree, be a guide to the best new ethical fashion designers currently working in the UK WORLDWIDE.

So, read on to find out more about how you can be included in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration:

I will be looking for a variety of styles of fashion illustration, but the final choice of who is included in the book will depend on a number of factors:

* Those illustrators who can demonstrably show that they are engaged with editorial fashion illustration. Priority will be shown to illustrators already contributing to Amelia’s Magazine online. If you aren’t already doing so then what are you waiting for? Get on twitter and start offering your services to myself @ameliagregory and to @MattBramf next time there is an open callout for illustrations.

* Those illustrators who can show that they have a good body of professional quality material. This does not mean that you have to be a professional (yet) so if you are still at college or only work on illustration in your spare time do not let this put you off. I will give your work the same chance as anyone else’s if you can demonstrate a good commitment to fashion illustration.

j_maskrey_lfw2010_03_bex_glover
J Maskrey A/W 2010 by Bex Glover. See original post here.

The way that you can demonstrate commitment is by submitting the following things to the open brief:

1. Six illustrations that you have done for fashion editorial purposes over the past year. These should include work for Amelia’s Magazine online, and for other companies if possible. You can also submit work done for your own personal use. Choose the 6 pieces that best reflect your style and please label the artwork accordingly when you submit lo res versions for the initial decision making process. You can include one or two pieces that aren’t strictly fashion as long as they show a similar style: e.g. illustrations of a band or other people based illustrations.

2. Three illustrations (exclusively for this open brief) depicting clothing from recent collections from your choice of one ethical fashion designer. Below are listed some of the designers that we will be considering for inclusion in the book (not yet definitive, and subject to change, so do check back in for an update) And please do go and research your own ideas wherever you live. Feel free to be as creative as you like – these aren’t going to be used commercially! These should showcase your favourite style of working to the best possible advantage. Please note that you may be asked to do some more illustrations of another ethical designer if the one you have chosen has been covered by more than one illustrator that I want to feature.

3. An illustration of yourself. Which will accompany your pages should you be chosen, obviously.

4. Proof of your commitment to professionalism in the form of your online presence: this should include a website, blog, facebook and twitter feed or similar. I feel that it’s so important for illustrators to network themselves on the internet that I am only going to include in my book those who demonstrably engage with social media in a major way. If you still aren’t doing so, well, you’ve got time! Quick, set up your online presence and get going for a few months before you send me your submission. It’s likely that I won’t be featuring anyone who isn’t following me on twitter.

5. A written piece describing how you work, why you chose the ethical designer you did and anything else you think is relevant to your pitch. This doesn’t need to be an example of perfect journalism, but I want to know that you have something interesting to say about your profession because I will be interviewing the chosen finalists. You should include a biography of current and future plans, the ways in which you engage with social networking and reasons for why I should include you in the book.

Pam-Hogg-white-dress-Lfw2010-Etiene Del Monte
Pam Hogg A/W 2010 by Etiene Del Monte. See original blog post here.

Other key things you need to know are:

You should always work to a large scale. The book will be the same proportions as my previous books, so it’s always a good idea to keep in your head the scale and proportions of my pages when working on new pieces for submission. I will run a mixture of double pages, single pages and pages with multiple images. For your main pieces please keep page dimensions in mind. A single page is 20cm x 24.5cm. Always work to 300 dpi at a large scale to ensure the best print quality.

The closing date for submissions is midnight on Sunday 18th July. Please send all submissions as lo res images at 72 dpi attached to an email titled SUBMISSION FOR AMELIA’S COMPENDIUM OF FASHION ILLUSTRATION as you really don’t want to risk me losing it in the flood of emails I receive daily.

You should also expect there to be a short list process for applicants who I am finding it hard to choose between. This may involve a second series of questions to answer, and you may have to produce a more specific piece of commissioned work to show you can respond to art direction well. It is more than likely that I will ask the chosen illustrators to produce more work for the book so that all the ethical designers I wish to feature are covered.

If you have found a new ethical designer that I don’t know about but are unsure as to whether they would be right for my book, then please do send me an email with a link to their website using this link, and do make sure that you join the accompanying facebook event so that you can keep up with my latest news, and because you’re down with social networking, right? I will be checking who joined the group when it comes to decision time… so don’t say I didn’t tell you.

Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration will be distributed internationally and available in all the best art bookshops. It’s the most fantastic way for you to get your work seen. So, what are you waiting for? I can’t wait to see what amazing creations you come up with….

Fashion Designers:
Ada Zanditon
Emesha
Beautiful Soul
Christopher Raeburn
Goodone
Tara Starlet
Ivana Basilotta
Anatomy
Henrietta Ludgate
Lu Flux
The North Circular
Julia Smith
Noir
People Tree designer collaborations
Wilfried Pletzinger
Tijana and Mila Popovic
Fin
Ciel
Makepiece
Minna
Edun
Izzy Lane
Junky Styling
By Stamo
From Somewhere
Max Jenny
Joy French
Wildlife Works
Viridis Luxe
Unicorn
Trash Couture
Prancing Leopard
Andrea Crews
Dem Collective
Howies
Righteous Fashion
Reflective Circle
Johanna Hofring
Anja Hynynen
Pia Anjou
Camilla Norrback

Jewellery (good for beauty/fashion illustration)
Oria
Fifi Bijoux
Ingle & Rhode designer collaborations
Cred designer collaborations
Joanna Cave

A good place to look for interesting new fashion designers is within the pages of this ‘ere Amelia’s Magazine, funnily enough. Remember, the chances of you appearing in this book are slim if you have never contributed to Amelia’s Magazine. That’s easy to remedy though – you’ve got nearly two months and we need illustrations all the time.
Start reading my Alternative Fashion Week series here.
For good examples of how we have used fashion illustration in Amelia’s Magazine already and to find other new designers start reading recent London Fashion Week blogs here.

Categories ,Ada Zanditon, ,Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Bex Glover, ,Blogging, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,ciel, ,Emesha, ,Etiene Del Monte, ,Facebook, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Gemma Milly, ,goodone, ,Julia Smith, ,Lu Flux, ,noir, ,Open brief, ,People Tree, ,Social Media, ,Tara Starlet, ,Tijana and Mila Popovic, ,twitter, ,Wilfried Pletzinger

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