Amelia’s Magazine | Fifi Bijoux: an interview with luxury ethical jewellery designer Vivien Johnston

Abby Wright Fifi Bijoux rutile quartz
Rutile quartz jewellery by Fifi Bijoux. Illustrated by Abby Wright.

I first encountered Fifi Bijoux at London Fashion Week a few years ago, look symptoms and we subsequently interviewed her for the print version of Amelia’s Magazine. Since then she’s achieved an amazing amount in ethical jewellery production…

You were one of the first jewellery designers to take an ethical stance on manufacturing of high end jewellery in the UK. What have you achieved?
I set up the British Ethical Jewellery Association to create a set of auditable ethical standards for the industry. This has since been superseded by the ethics working committee of the National Association of Goldsmiths which has adopted the same aims, approved medications helping to enable relationships between jewellers and small-scale mining projects. NAG has nearly a thousand members, pills so it is the perfect platform to achieve our aim of supporting jewellers in the UK to lead the way in adopting ethical sourcing as a core business value. In the UK there is a real will to embrace better ethical practices and a fairtraded logo for jewellery will be agreed on shortly.

Have you seen much change in the industry since you started Fifi Bijoux?
The most remarkable change has come from gem and diamond-producing countries such as Tanzania, Madagascar and Namibia, who are now cutting and polishing the gems before export. This represents a huge shift in technical skills and economics since a large percentage of a gem’s value is added at this stage. The lapidary art of stone cutting requires a high degree of technical and scientific expertise in order to create the sophisticated facets expected by western customers, and this can be provided by modern lasers. Gravity mining provides a relatively low impact solution for gold extraction. It is really important that producers in developing countries are able to access markets and this is where organisations such as the Fairtrade Foundation and membership bodies like NAG can create quantum shifts; an individual jeweller may struggle with the process of sourcing gold, exporting it from a developing country, refining it and processing it into a usable material to create jewellery. However, by acting collectively with support resources in place, this becomes considerably less daunting.

Read the rest of this interview with Fifi Bijoux in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,British Ethical Jewellery Association, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Fairtrade Foundation, ,Fifi Bijoux, ,Gold, ,Gold Mining, ,Gravity Mining, ,jewellery, ,Madagascar, ,NAG, ,Namibia, ,National Association of Goldsmiths, ,Rutile quartz, ,Tanzania, ,Vivien Johnston

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Amelia’s Magazine | Free Range Graduate Shows 2012: Middlesex University Jewellery Ba Hons Review

Middlesex Uni -Chaca Jacobsen
Chaca Jacobsen.

The jewellery design course at Middlesex University habitually turns out some wonderful artisans and this year was no exception, with collections inspired by themes of tradition, adornment, religion, memory, value and social identity. I visited their workshops at the Hendon campus a few months ago and was incredibly impressed by their new facilities.

Francesca Tring
Francesca Tring
Francesca Tring was inspired by Memento Mori to create these curious, dark wooden brooches… sprouting tufts of fur.

Franziska Lusser
Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Franziska Lusser
Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Franziska Lusser
I’m a sucker for big jewellery such as Franziska Lusser‘s designs, which made clever use of common materials (plastic combined with metal dust) to create precious looking pendants on industrial chains.

Helen Maria Faliveno
Helen Maria Faliveno
Helen Maria Faliveno
I also love delicate jewellery. Helen Maria Faliveno remembers childhood obsessions in her Polly Pocket inspired charms.

Mesh Doganay
Mesh Doganay displayed dipped neon rings which she creates quickly in one sitting, improvising the design process as she progresses.

Louise Payjack-Guillou
Louise Payjack-Guillou
Louise Payjack-Guillou fossilised sea urchins into lockets and brooches.

Lydia Miriam Jones
Lydia Miriam Jones
Lydia Miriam Jones
Lydia Miriam Jones worked at the Neema Crafts Centre in Tanzania, which totally altered her attitudes to creating material goods. Her stunning display was created using a ‘bottle to beads’ recycling process. She collects materials and then transforms them through low-tech production such as slip casting, embracing inherent imperfections from the process.

Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Tanya Garfield
Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Tanya Garfield
He loves me, he loves me not…

Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Tanya Garfield
Delicate necklaces by Tanya Garfield were one of my stand out favourites in the show. By combining common sayings and the intricacies of Morse Code she has produced beautiful and desirable necklaces – something which is often difficult to do with more conceptual work.

Christiana Christoforou
Christiana Christoforou
Christiana Christoforou began her final work by leaving clay at the entrance to stranger’s homes in London, with a message inviting them to imprint something of their identity into the material. From this she had created intriguing medallions which encompass the abstract and the recognisable (a Lego figurine, Donald Duck.)

Lydia Wood-Power
Lydia Wood-Power mixed past and present in her colourful formica collection. Alongside creating jewellery she also runs a ‘vintage’ 1950s style tea room in Streatham Hill, which she opened in her year out. She works in a studio behind it: what a wonderful idea!

Samantha Cobb
Samantha Cobb‘s tiny metal amulets reminded me of paper boats or paper hats.

Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Middlesex Uni -Chaca Jacobsen
Middlesex University jewellery graduate show 2012-Middlesex Uni -Chaca Jacobsen
Using an eclectic mix of high gloss acrylic and a touch of gold, Chaca Jacobsen had created decorative yet functional necklaces with an elegant finish. ‘A ninja necklace awakes the spy; a Samurai sword-handle necklace our inner power and a police baton reflects a desire for control.

There is no doubt that this was a showcase for incredible techniques and thought process in jewellery making – I’d also love to see more collaboration with fashion, melding these skills with catwalk trends and influences. You can read my review of the 2011 graduate show here.

Categories ,2012, ,Chaca Jacobsen, ,Christiana Christoforou, ,Francesca Tring, ,Franziska Lusser, ,Free Range, ,Helen Maria Faliveno, ,Hendon campus, ,jewellery, ,Louise Payjack-Guillou, ,Lydia Miriam Jones, ,Lydia Wood-Power, ,Memento Mori, ,Memory, ,Mesh Doganay, ,middlesex university, ,Morse Code, ,Neema Crafts Centre, ,Polly Pocket, ,recycled, ,religion, ,review, ,Samantha Cobb, ,Social Identity, ,Tanya Garfield, ,Tanzania, ,Vintage tea room

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