Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011, Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode No.1 Florian Jayet (by Helen)

Presentations are funny things; done badly they can leave you feeling a bit underwhelmed, price but done well they can be even more effective than a big catwalk show. Craig Lawrence’s A/W 2011 presentation fell into the latter category for me;a series of presentations meant that there was plenty of room to find a seat, viagra 40mg but still impressive front row faces like Susie Bubble and Fred Butler.A voiceover narrated the details of each outfit which really shed a lot of light on the intricacies of the designs that might have been lost on me otherwise; like garments being turned inside out to expose filigree textures beneath the surface.

The shoes were also real show-stoppers,the result of a collaboration between Craig and Crisian & McCaffrey, featuring killer heels and knitted panels.The colours of the collection were inspired by the night; dark blues, purples and navy blues; a brilliant alternative to the blacks and greys autumn/winter collections often resort to. Craig’s alternative textiles like cellophane and Kyototex give a shimmery finish to evening wear, whilst knitted tights worn underneath sheer knits created striking, layered patterns. Some pieces were made up of large circles and stripes woven into the fabric, subtle details which only really showed up in the texture of the garments.

In striking contrast to the dark clothes, the models’ eyes were accentuated with a neon orange stripe on each eyelid; in keeping with the ‘brights’ make-up trend. Statement tights were also omnipresent in the LFW crowd and Craig’s offerings imply they’re going nowhere.

When the presentation finished, Craig didn’t seem to be making an appearance, until his mum left her place on the front row to drag him out to much applause. He certainly deserves it for pioneering a totally innovative approach to textiles and knitwear which has made him a firm fixture on the London fashion scene.

Presentations are funny things; done badly they can leave you feeling a bit underwhelmed, viagra but done well they can be even more effective than a big catwalk show. Craig Lawrence’s A/W 2011 presentation fell into the latter category for me;a series of presentations meant that there was plenty of room to find a seat, pharm but still impressive front row faces like Susie Bubble and Fred Butler.A voiceover narrated the details of each outfit which really shed a lot of light on the intricacies of the designs that might have been lost on me otherwise; like garments being turned inside out to expose filigree textures beneath the surface.

The shoes were also real show-stoppers,the result of a collaboration between Craig and Crisian & McCaffrey, featuring killer heels and knitted panels.The colours of the collection were inspired by the night; dark blues, purples and navy blues; a brilliant alternative to the blacks and greys autumn/winter collections often resort to. Craig’s alternative textiles like cellophane and Kyototex give a shimmery finish to evening wear, whilst knitted tights worn underneath sheer knits created striking, layered patterns. Some pieces were made up of large circles and stripes woven into the fabric, subtle details which only really showed up in the texture of the garments.

In striking contrast to the dark clothes, the models’ eyes were accentuated with a neon orange stripe on each eyelid; in keeping with the ‘brights’ make-up trend. Statement tights were also omnipresent in the LFW crowd and Craig’s offerings imply they’re going nowhere.

When the presentation finished, Craig didn’t seem to be making an appearance, until his mum left her place on the front row to drag him out to much applause. He certainly deserves it for pioneering a totally innovative approach to textiles and knitwear which has made him a firm fixture on the London fashion scene.

Illustration by Jo Cheung

Presentations are funny things; done badly they can leave you feeling a bit underwhelmed, viagra order but done well they can be even more effective than a big catwalk show. Craig Lawrence’s A/W 2011 presentation fell into the latter category for me;a series of presentations meant that there was plenty of room to find a seat, thumb but still impressive front row faces like Susie Bubble and Fred Butler. A voiceover narrated the details of each outfit which really shed a lot of light on the intricacies of the designs that might have been lost on me otherwise; like garments being turned inside out to expose filigree textures beneath the surface.

The shoes were also real show-stoppers, seek the result of a collaboration between Craig and Crisian & McCaffrey, featuring killer heels and knitted panels.The colours of the collection were inspired by the night; dark blues, purples and navy blues; a brilliant alternative to the blacks and greys autumn/winter collections often resort to. Craig’s alternative textiles like cellophane and Kyototex give a shimmery finish to evening wear, whilst knitted tights worn underneath sheer knits created striking, layered patterns. Some pieces were made up of large circles and stripes woven into the fabric, subtle details which only really showed up in the texture of the garments.


Illustration by Jo Cheung

In striking contrast to the dark clothes, the models’ eyes were accentuated with a neon orange stripe on each eyelid; in keeping with the ‘brights’ make-up trend. Statement tights were also omnipresent in the LFW crowd and Craig’s offerings imply they’re going nowhere.

When the presentation finished, Craig didn’t seem to be making an appearance, until his mum left her place on the front row to drag him out to much applause. He certainly deserves it for pioneering a totally innovative approach to textiles and knitwear which has made him a firm fixture on the London fashion scene.

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Illustration by Jo Cheung

Presentations are funny things; done badly they can leave you feeling a bit underwhelmed, visit this site but done well they can be even more effective than a big catwalk show. Craig Lawrence’s A/W 2011 presentation fell into the latter category for me;a series of presentations meant that there was plenty of room to find a seat, but still impressive front row faces like Susie Bubble and Fred Butler.A voiceover narrated the details of each outfit which really shed a lot of light on the intricacies of the designs that might have been lost on me otherwise; like garments being turned inside out to expose filigree textures beneath the surface.

The shoes were also real show-stoppers,the result of a collaboration between Craig and Crisian & McCaffrey, featuring killer heels and knitted panels.The colours of the collection were inspired by the night; dark blues, purples and navy blues; a brilliant alternative to the blacks and greys autumn/winter collections often resort to. Craig’s alternative textiles like cellophane and Kyototex give a shimmery finish to evening wear, whilst knitted tights worn underneath sheer knits created striking, layered patterns. Some pieces were made up of large circles and stripes woven into the fabric, subtle details which only really showed up in the texture of the garments.

Illustration by Jo Cheung

In striking contrast to the dark clothes, the models’ eyes were accentuated with a neon orange stripe on each eyelid; in keeping with the ‘brights’ make-up trend. Statement tights were also omnipresent in the LFW crowd and Craig’s offerings imply they’re going nowhere.

When the presentation finished, Craig didn’t seem to be making an appearance, until his mum left her place on the front row to drag him out to much applause. He certainly deserves it for pioneering a totally innovative approach to textiles and knitwear which has made him a firm fixture on the London fashion scene.

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Illustration by Artist Andrea

Charlie Le Mindu’s ‘Berlin Syndrome’ catwalk show was packed with journalists, viagra photographers and front row candy like Daphne Guinness and Diane Pernet, remedy lots of people were left outside, disappointed. Such is the draw of the promise of nudity.

And Charlie didn’t let us down- first up on the catwalk was a naked model drenched in fake blood, wearing only a headpiece adorned with the word ‘Violence’. Profound, eh?The ‘Carrie’ theme ran through the whole show, with a number of the pieces being blood-splattered or drenched,a gimmick I’d have got pretty bored of if it weren’t for the nod to second world war Berlin. Vintage style lace and lots of military influences from gasmarks to metal cases meant that my interest was definitely peeked. Some of this stuff WAS wearable- have a look at this fantastic robe.

The shoes were a result of a collaboration between Charlie and Underground Shoes, I’m really disappointed that I didn’t get a better picture of any of them, because they were fantastic; stunning platforms covered in lace and Charlie’s signature hair.


Beginning life as a hairdresser, Charlie has gone on to work human hair into his clothing designs, now worn by the likes of Lady Gaga. In this show, hair fringing was often daubed in Graffiti, as were the model’s own hairstyles.

Illustration by Artist Andrea

The return of a darkly rebellious nod to the Punk era was evident in a number of shows this year,evidence of the current economic climate, dissatisfaction with the government; certainly Charlie was out to shock, provoke and disturb, with the final walk through set to a soundtrack of pigs being slaughtered. Whilst maintaining his artistic integrity, I do think Charlie was thinking of potential buyers when he designed this collection, as a lot of it is much more wearable than his previous pieces, despite the avant garde presentation.Get ready to see these looks on many a celeb; though probably without the fake blood.

Illustration by Artist Andrea

Photographs by Katie Antoniou

Ziad Ghanem by Avril Kelly

What an amazing show; Ziad Ghanem has trumped everything else I’ve seen this week. Opening with a model dressing in a dark, doctor dramatic floor length strapless gown, price with green feathers, stilts and skull makeup the audience were cheering from the off.

The front row was packed out with the eccentrically dressed – Boy George almost blended into the background in a bright yellow hat and full face of makeup. Special mention has to go to the PVC clad, (and complete with blow up hair), London artist Pandemonia, sitting opposite me. Together with a matching blow up dog, she must have been boilin’!

Ziad Ghanem by Alison Day

The loud show, with music changes more frequent than model changes provided clapping, laughing and unanimous approval – so much so that no one seemed to care that the show started an almost an hour late. Male and female models took to the catwalk in stunning creations – capes, gigantic earrings and tremendously tight dresses were wriggled, danced and glided down the runway on joker-style made-up faces.

The models came in all shapes and sizes but voluptuous curves and a heaving bosom was the order of the evening. Corset dresses that pushed said bosoms up and out were so tight that somewhere Scarlett Johansen was blushing. Full length floaty gowns in pale hues of blue, deep reds, sparkling gold and matte grey also allowed for plenty of swishing, and cloak spinning as the models made their way towards the waiting photographers.

Ziad Ghanem by Madi

My favourite dress was the bright fuschia deep cut and backless cocktail dress that nipped in perfectly at the waist. The shiny nature of the material was so unashamedly trashy that it avoided (I think) being either tacky or quality street wrapper-esque. Other notable highlights of the show include a deathly bride and groom, solemnly showering the crowd with petals at the end of the show, and the model who pirouetted her way backwards after walking down the catwalk. All in all, a brilliant show – exciting, entertaining and some truly beautiful clothes.
LFW2_FlorianJayet_by_AlisonDay

LFW A/W 2011, viagra sale Florian Jayet. Illustration by Alison Day

I spent London Fashion Week staying at my parent’s house. My childhood home with a new kitchen, order dog ‘brother’, central heating that works and a bath. I’m not going to lie, I enjoyed having my porridge made in the morning. Maple syrup on the side, and a herbal tea, packed lunch filled with snacks. That’s right, I lapped it up. Although Charlie is an excellent boy/man, there is nothing quite like the mother. However they live a few miles outside of Brighton, in a village. Thus the trek to London, the long days and write ups – intense. All because I LOVE it. Love words, fashion, and obviously, this mighty magazine. Yet I deliberated with coming to London for one show on Sunday. Day of rest day normally means Roast dinner. But I have in my mind, ‘NO HELS! SAY NOT TO NOTHING!’ at all times. I’m following my writing dream after all. This causes me great pleasures and enormous pains. So, of course, one show or not, I was on that train to London Victoria. And am I glad I made the effort for Fashion Mode?

Yes. Three shows in one; three excellent shows. I’m going to split Fashion Mode into three posts, because each designer deserves the love. So we will start with Florian Jayet.

LFW3_FlorianJayet_by_AlisonDay

LFW A/W 2011, Florian Jayet. Illustration by Alison Day

Initially I was slightly terrified and in awe of the models coming out. Nothing different to every show you might say. But, this was different, because the models had metal contraptions of their heads that made them look like a cross between special aliens and orthodontic patients. Four strips of silver metal came over their heads from the back, to touch their faces, with an enormous roller at the back. After my initial fear, I decided that they looked cool, as inevitably happens at LFW. See: ‘Urg… ahhh.. yah, I totally get that now. I want one.’ Although I’m not sure I would wear one of these creations, I would certainly consider wearing the dresses, which the metal complimented perfectly. Wiggle space lady, that’s what you are. With lasers from your eyes and hips.

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LFW A/W 2011, Florian Jayet. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Florian Jayet is a graduate in Biology which explains his science appreciative designs. The pieces featured strong shoulders, midi length skirts and padded fabrics. The shape of the woman has been celebrated and appreciated as if it is meant to be seen and not covered – raw biology. The models reminded me of those in Huxley’s; Brave New World. Perfect, angular and although feminine, minus the romanticism and emotional sentimentality, that are sometimes conjured by designs. In a sense Jayet‘s pieces are actually a mix of previous, and our vision of future, ideologies. The restricted, but beautiful shapes of the 20s, 30s and 40s appear to have been fused with modern and excessive details; i.e. the shoulders. The contemporary complimenting the past, and particularly with reference to French houses; Chanel and Dior. This makes for a very sophisticated and composed look. It made me want to look closer, at every detail, and know more. As opposed to held within the ruffles, the corset and the red heels, everything seemed so wrapped up, with the story inside. It was whimsical in its own way, and also impenetrable. These outfits are those that I would hope to find in the corner of a cafe in Paris, smoking, mysterious, alone – with a steely, but far away look.

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LFW A/W 2011, Florian Jayet. Photography by Amelia Gregory

I adored the padding details and the shrug wraps. Space lady, dressed for dinner. The long dresses had a Japanese feel to them, geisha like and graceful. Florian Jayet said that the focus for him, is to create; ‘a fetish wardrobe, pieces that a woman can keep forever, bringing them out on special occasions when she needs to be propelled into confidence and strength.’ It’s fair to say that you would feel empowered wearing Jayet’s pieces. The creams and blacks, shoulders, padding and midi length skirts would have me stomping and demanding like a glossy magazine Editor with somewhere to be. However at the moment it’s more probable I would be the space lady in the cafe, with a triple americano (having no affect), internally reliving or hoping for something. With an unreadable face, it’s unclear as to what scene could be playing in the mind of this space femme, but in a way it’s romantic – because for me, everything always is. This includes Jayet, of course.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Biology, ,chanel, ,Dior, ,Fahsion, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Florian Jayet, ,Forward PR, ,lfw, ,LFW A/W, ,Space

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vostok 5 at The Outside World Gallery: an interview with Darren Hayman

Bobik (Big Bull) by Darren Hayman.png
Bobik (Big Bull) by Darren Hayman.

Vostok 5 officially opens at The Outside World Gallery today. The exhibition pays respects to the animals and humans who have been into space, what is ed so I asked Darren Hayman what prompted him to explore such intriguing subject matter.

Malyshka (Little One) by Darren Hayman.png
Malyshka (Little One) by Darren Hayman.

How did you get together with your fellow Vostok 5 artists to create the concept of your new exhibition? 
I had thought of doing an exhibition for some time but didn’t have the courage to do it on my own. I wanted to share the risk with other musicians who do painting on the side. Although Sarah is perhaps an artist who does music on the side.

Can you tell us a little bit about each of the Vostok 5? Who are they and what was their specific area of interest in putting this exhibition together?

Paul Rains
Paul Rains is the guitarist in Allo Darlin and a songwriter in his own right in Hexicon. For the exhibition he has done bright, bold artwork about Alexei Leonov, a Russian Cosmonaut who took his drawing pencils into Space with him.

Vostok 5 duncan barrett
Earth by Duncan Barrett
moon Wernher Von Braunby Duncan Barrett
Duncan Barrett is from Tigercats. Tigercats play guitar music that you can dance to, honestly. Duncan has made beautiful lino cut prints of Wernher von Braun and Sergei Korolev, the US and Russian chief rocket designers.

Sam Vostok 5
Robert Rotifer space canteen
Robert Rotifer is a big deal in Austria and he might be one here soon. His new album was recorded by Wreckless Eric and is being released by Edwyn Collins in the Autumn. He painted Space monkeys.

Sarah Lippett Vostok 5
Sarah Lippett Vostok 5
Sarah Lippett is the best artist amongst us and her comic about the life of Yuri Gagarin is the most impressive piece in the exhibition. We all agree on that. She also plays bass in the dark, dense Fever Dream.

What was it that first fascinated you about space flight and how old were you? was there a seminal book that you read or movie that inspired your obsession and if so what?
I think for my age, being born in the 1970s it was the most natural thing to be excited about space travel. I can’t remember ever not knowing how the different sections of how an Apollo rocket worked. Star Wars in 1977 probably helped. The definitive book about space flight when I was growing up was Andrew Chaikin‘s A Man on the Moon.

Soviet stamp vostok 5
Do you collect space ephemera? and if so what kind of stuff do you have?
I have a lot of Russian Space Dog stamps that are in the exhibition but I lack the patience and stamina to be a proper collector.

Krasavka by Darren Hayman
Over the course of your research has there been any one story of an animal in space that has stood out and if so what was it?
Krazavka (Little Beauty) had a hell of a mission with Damka in 1960. Their mission was plagued with system failures and eventually their space flight was orbited but on decent their ejection seat device also failed and they landed with their capsule set to a 60 hour self-destruct. When their frozen capsule was discovered there were no signs of life and the rescuers were unable to gain access. The next morning however barks were heard and the dogs were freed.

Space dog stamp
What makes you most mad, on hearing the stories of these animals who were unable to make any decisions of their own?
Probably, the fact that in historical accounts you are told over and over again how much Korolev and the scientists loved the dogs. Coupled with the statues, stamps and tributes it strikes me that they are looking for justifications themselves.

Space dog stamp
You’ve been a vegetarian for many years, are there any other conscious decisions that you make in every day life which are affected by how you feel about animal cruelty? 
Actually it’s only two years. I became a vegetarian when I was 39 and as such this prevents me from being overly pious. I enjoy it though. I like having something to believe in but I hope my meat eating friends will confirm that I haven’t become a nag.

Belyanka and Pestraya by Darren Hayman
Belyanka and Pestraya by Darren Hayman.

I seem to remember that you have a dog: do you still have a dog? And do you have any other animals in your life at the moment, if so who?
Beulah is ten now but still seems very much like a young dog. She is the only animal in my life.

What can listeners expect to hear on the Vostok 5 commemorative album?
Despite having 5 different artists on it, it doesn’t sound like a compilation album. The shared subject matter provides a fragmented narrative. It’s sadder and more emotional than you might expect.

You have said that the exhibition is ‘for people who love rockets and animals‘. What is your hope for the future of animals in science?
Despite what I said earlier about not wanting to bug my meat eating friends my personal feelings about animal experimentation etc. have become increasingly hardline. I’m still finding my way through the ethics but I find it tough to see why human’s ever thought they were entitled to these assumed rights.

Space dog stamp purple
My thoughts about what we do in Space have changed a lot as I’ve gotten older as well. I can still access my childhood wonder but really I don’t care if we never go up there again now. Human’s, en masse, are such horrible creatures with what we do to each other. We don’t deserve the right to escape Earth and we certainly can’t afford it.

What else are you currently working on? Any exciting plans for the rest of the year?
The Ship’s Piano an album of piano ballads for people who can’t stand loud noises. Out in October. Christmas in Haworth, a six track mini Christmas album. The physical release of January Songs. It’s all go.

You can visit Vostok 5 until the 7th of September, and here’s my full listing.

Categories ,Alexei Leonov, ,Allo Darlin, ,Andrew Chaikin, ,Bobik, ,Damka, ,Darren Hayman, ,Dogs, ,Edwyn Collins, ,exhibition, ,Fever Dream, ,Hexicon, ,Krazavka, ,Malyshka, ,Monkeys, ,Paul Rains, ,Robert Rotifer, ,Rockets, ,Russian Cosmonaut, ,Sarah Lippett, ,Sergei Korolev, ,Space, ,Space Dogs, ,Stamps, ,Star Wars, ,The Outside World Gallery, ,Tigercats, ,Vostok 5, ,Wernher von Braun, ,Wreckless Eric, ,Yuri Gagarin

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Designer Laszlo Tompa

Lazlo Tompa

The title of this post is a little misleading as Laszlo Tompa is more than just a Designer. Not just a Ceramist or a Craftsman, he is more like a materials ‘magician’. His creations are half homeware item and half magic trick, and his Spiral Puzzle Box is particularly enchanting.

Having studied at Moholy-Nagy University of Art and Design in Budapest, Hungary, Laszlo has a real knack with clay and wood as well as a killer eye for design. Geometric shapes and space are his obsessions, and his wood pieces are all sensually smooth and designed right down to the smallest detail.

Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa

His wooden pieces fall into the following categories: Flower Hanging Lamps, Hydro Lamps, Cube Illusion and Spiral Box. The Flower Hanging Lamps are made from solid cherry wood with hexagonal and pentagonal pyramids forming the main structure. Light only points downwards in these nifty little ceiling lovers. His Hydro Lamps, inspired by ocean creatures that emit light, are made from solid wood, but have more of a deep sea vibe than than their flowery counterparts. These beauties let shards of light out in the main body of the lamp, unlike their floral brothers and sisters.

Cube Illusion is a wooden box with a lid, and looks a bit like a giant Ferrero Rocher (minus the golden foil). It’s a design sculpture and homeware piece made of complex shapes that appears to house a small space, but in actual fact is surprisingly roomy. The Spiral Box is part gargantuan snail, part labyrinth; at first impossible to open, patience and persistence lead to the discovery of a hidden drawer. I spoke to Laszlo about his talent for materials, his amazing creations and how he knew these nifty concepts would work.

Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa

How did you become interested in ceramics?
I had no special influence in my childhood. I encountered clay for the first time in a school workshop and I loved its limitless ductility. At Art High-School I spent time in the Department of Ceramics. After this I learned everything I know about clay at university.

Laszlo Tompa
Laszlo Tompa

You also work with wood, how did you first develop a love for this material?
Both my grandfather and my father were Craftsmen who did a lot of woodwork in their free time. As a child, I was delighted to see them shape wood and create new objects. Through several generations in our family, the wood-turning lathe was as common as a refrigerator in other families. Despite this, I was more attracted to ceramics, though I have enjoyed rediscovering wood during the past two years.

Laszlo Tompa

Do you find you find switching between materials difficult?
My starting point is the form, and I choose the material based on that. I think all Designers have to know the properties of the materials. I have no problem with changing materials.

Geometric shapes are a big feature of your work, have you always been interested in space and shape?
I’ve always liked Maths. While studying Ceramics I realised that tile geometry and tessellation is really interesting. After I realised this, I spend years studying it, and later I turned to designing 3D tiles.

Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa

Your work is really well thought out, what process do you go through to get to a finished piece?
Luckily I have a lot of ideas. Out of these I choose some that are worth pursuing. I make several 3D models on computer. When they are good enough I produce a prototype and I refine the ratios. For example this is how the computer version of Cube Illusion was created.

Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa

What kind of furniture is your own home filled with?
I prefer Scandinavian-style furniture.

How did you get the idea for Spiral Box?
I was interested in spiral forms at university and I studied all kinds of twisted plant shapes. Spiral Box was designed long after these. The idea came to my mind after studying the form of a worm. Preparation of the prototype was very difficult and complicated.

Lazlo Tompa
Lazlo Tompa

What have you got lined up for the year ahead?
I would like to return to tile geometry and make wooden wall tiles. I plan to exhibit them at the end of the summer and I have confidence that they will have similar success to my former works.

Lazlo Tompa

To see more of Laszlo‘s work check out his site www.tompakeramia.hu. All photos were provided by Laszlo Tompa.

Categories ,ceramics, ,Clay, ,copying lathe, ,craft, ,design, ,form, ,Furniture, ,geometry, ,jessicasrcook, ,Lazlo-Tompa, ,Moholy-Nagy University of Art and Design, ,shapes, ,Space, ,Spiral box, ,tile, ,wood, ,Woodcraft, ,woodturner

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