Amelia’s Magazine | Treasure Jewellery Show 2013: Review

Treasure jewellery show review
This year I got my first taste of the Treasure jewellery show at Somerset House, a vast showcase now on its sixth outing during Jewellery Week. Here’s the familiar talents and hot new jewellery discoveries that caught my eye.

Ostrich little finger ring in rose gold with iolite gemstone by Dominique Lucas
The first thing to grab my attention was this unusual ostrich little finger ring in rose gold with an iolite gemstone by Dominique Lucas. Dominique trained with master craftsmen in Italy, Mexico and London. She’s created some bold pieces based on animals, and I love her current collection, featuring big bullet gem rings.

A clever neon lot display for silicone bracelets by #brazelights
Brazelights had created this clever neon lit display to show off modern silicone bracelets.

Ros Millar Nugget_Stud_Earrings
I couldn’t get close to Ros Millar‘s stand – an young award winning designer from Northern Ireland, who creates on trend organic metal jewels with a ‘Gothic Luxe‘ feel.

Tessa Metcalfe jewellery

Jeweller Tessa Metcalfe looked amazing in her own jewels. This young jeweller trained as an illustrator and has been championed by the Secret Emporium for some time. Now I see why her bold bird claw rings and necklaces are fast gaining a loyal following. Check out her innovative video look book above.

Rosita Bonita jewellery
Beautiful Rosita Bonita looked gorgeous sporting her new embossed leather collection (inspired by a combination of Japanese and Spanish styles) at her fabulously appointed stand. She’s another jeweller who trained as an illustrator before settling on her profession – read our recent interview with Rosita Bonita here.

An outsized showpiece ring containing fruit Atelier Laibach
This outsized showpiece ring containing fruit was worn by Kerstin Laibach of Atelier Laibach. She is an entirely ethical jeweller, so nothing is newly mined and her collection is vegan friendly. This wasn’t something I have ever considered before, but apparently many of the items used in the day to day production of jewellery feature animal products.

Pretty necklace of found objects by Sarah Drew with ecoluxe london
Ecoluxe London has recently launched a shopping site to compliment its trade fair presence during London Fashion Week, and their stand featured a variety of represented designers. This pretty necklace of found objects is by Sarah Drew, who finds all sorts of interesting things to work with on the beach where she lives in Cornwall.

Öhlund silver mens jewellery
These recycled sterling silver pendants are by men’s jewellery designer Öhlund and are inspired by aviation and industrial design. I think the shapes in the Boneyard 13 collection look like bullets or cartridges.

Myia Bonner
Jeweller Myia Bonner builds on her deconstruction of the traditional diamond shape with these dangly earrings. As one part of the Metric Collective she’ll be showcasing new work at their annual pop up store between 7th July – 1st September on Columbia Road.

It’s not often that I am gobsmacked. But three quarters of my way around Treasure this is what I stumbled upon: astonishing moving stainless steel rings by Atelier Michael Berger. His kinetic jewels swing around the finger on invisible mechanisms as if by magic.

Abby Carnevale jewellery New York
abby carnevale
Another beautiful jeweller wearing her wares was New York based Abby Carnevale, who solders fine chains together with gems to create intricate waterfall designs. This was her first visit to London, but she hopes to return again.

Michele White jewellery
Without a doubt the most fabulous person I met at Treasure was Michele White, sporting amazing thigh length hair that was dip dyed purple to match her clothes. It was a delight to talk to this former ceramics teacher turned master jeweller and gemologist based in the famous Birmingham jewellery quarter. Her timeless art nouveau inspired designs (below) make the most of the natural beauty of opals and other gems, and really stood out amongst a sea of very similar jewels.

michele white gold opal ring
Michele White opal earrings
Now I can’t wait to discover more graduate talent at the New Designers shows!

Categories ,Abby Carnevale, ,Atelier Laibach, ,Atelier Michael Berger, ,Birmingham, ,Boneyard 13, ,Brazelights, ,Cornwall, ,Dominique Lucas, ,Ecoluxe London, ,Gothic Luxe, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Week, ,Kerstin Laibach, ,Metric Collective, ,Michele White, ,Myia Bonner, ,Öhlund, ,review, ,Ros Millar, ,Rosita Bonita, ,Sarah Drew, ,Secret Emporium, ,Somerset House, ,Tessa Metcalfe, ,Treasure

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Amelia’s Magazine | Metric Collective Jewellery Pop Up Exhibition at 94 Columbia Road

Metric Collective show 2011-Myia Bonner
Jewellery by Myia Bonner.

Metric Collective describes itself as a ‘collective of thinkers and doers, troche designers and makers who use co-creativity to engage and empower.’

Metric Collective show 2011-Myia Bonner
Pendant from The Diamond Collection by Myia Bonner.

I went along to the opening event a few weeks back, but the first Metric Collective pop up exhibition runs till 28th August so you still have plenty of time to pop on down. The exhibition has been made possible by Simon, a long time jeweller and owner of the store at 94 Columbia Road, who wants to encourage fresh young talent as well as invigorate interest in his own work. Metric Collective was put together primarily by jewellers Emma Madden and Myia Bonner.

Metric Collective show 2011-Emma Madden and Myia Bonner
Metric Collective creators, Emma Madden and Myia Bonner.

Shimell and Madden are showcasing some delicious gold and silver jewellery that play on the patterns created by gem facets and traditional stone setting skills. Luke Shimell provides the technical diamond cutting brains whilst Emma Madden provides the creative know how – by day she’s a PR for another jeweller in the local area and for the Metric Collective project she brings those skills to the fore.

Shimmell and Madden
Metric Collective show 2011-Emma Madden and Luke Shimmell
Emma Madden and Luke Shimmell.

Myia Bonner graduated from the brilliant Jewellery degree at Middlesex in 2010 and The Diamond Collection is an accomplished series of large diamond inspired cutwork rings and necklaces. Each piece has been hand finished to make it unique. You can also see Myia Bonner at New Designers this weekend.

Metric Collective show 2011-Myia Bonner
Myia Bonner in front of her collection.

As well as jewellery from Shimell and Madden there is also abstract wallpaper and illustrations from Jake Ambridge and a string window installation from Lora Avedian, all based on the geometric theme.

Jake Ambridge Metric Collective
Artwork by Jake Ambridge.

Perhaps most interesting of all are the collaborations – Emma Madden has worked with local school children to come up with some interesting geometric designs which are shown on the wall and the best of which will soon be made up into a piece of jewellery. Metric Collective is also providing a space for work by the Esther Benjamins Trust, set up to help disadvantaged girls in Nepal to make a living.

Metric Collective show 2011-Esther Benjaimins trust
Jewellery by the Esther Benjaimins Trust.

It’s a great idea to pull together creatives from different disciplines so that they can aid and encourage each other in the form of a collective, and it’s one of the first times that I’ve discovered a PR and journalist included in such a line up, their valuable expertise acknowledged for the part they play in promoting small events. You can never have enough help from those who specialise in these subjects, and for those of you still at college it’s well worth bearing in mind – when I teach I always encourage my students to make the most of the varied art and design networks they have available to them at university… contacts that it can be hard to come by once the big bad world beckons.

Metric Collective show 2011-Shimmell and Madden
Metric Collective show 2011

If you find yourself in Columbia Road anytime soon make sure you take a trip down to 94 Columbia Road and check out the talent for yourself. The Metric Collective pop up exhibition runs between 5th June – 28th August 2011. I warn you though… you are likely to want it all. But if you do splash the cash you will be safe in the knowledge that you’ll be supporting some great new talent in the process.

Categories ,Cerise, ,collective, ,Columbia Road, ,craft, ,Diamonds, ,Emma Madden, ,Esther Benjamins Trust, ,Given, ,illustrations, ,installation, ,Jake Ambridge, ,jewellery, ,Lora Avedian, ,Luke Shimmell, ,Metric Collective, ,Myia Bonner, ,New Designers, ,Precious Stones, ,Simon, ,The Diamond Collection, ,Wallpaper

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Amelia’s Magazine | Middlesex University: Ba Hons Jewellery and Accessories Design Graduate Show 2011 Review

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Louise McKay photo by Amelia Gregory
Ceramic pendant by Louise McKay. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The Middlesex Ba Hons Jewellery and Accessories display at Free Range Art and Design Show was by far the most impressive part of the exhibition held on the weekend of the 4-5th June at the Truman Brewery. It’s no wonder that this is one of the most respected jewellery degrees in the country, order with an extremely high quality of work on display throughout. Only a few weeks back I met Myia Bonner, a recent Middlesex graduate who is already producing some brilliant work with the Metric Collective just one year out of college. Here are some of my favourite finds:

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Joys Cheung photo by Amelia Gregory
Joys Cheung had produced some clever acrylic bangles – I particularly liked their use as plastic bag holders, the bright colours of the disposable bags becoming something beautiful in themselves, and ever ready to be used down the shops.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Samira Mazloom photo by Amelia Gregory
Samira Mazloom had some lovely chunky shell shaped rings with gems in the spikes. How I would love one of those on my hands.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Jenny Konnaris photo by Amelia Gregory
Jenny Konnaris used metallic leather to create flat laser cut neck accessories. During 2010 Jenny worked alongside Hussein Chalayan to produce jewellery and eyewear for his Mirage A/W 2010 collection which might explain why she has a website showcasing her work. Her final degree collection was inspired by Narcissus, questioning the idea of perfection through conscious asymmetry.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Kirstie Maclaren photo by Amelia GregoryMiddlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Kirstie Maclaren photo by Amelia Gregory
Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Kirstie Maclaren photo by Amelia Gregory
The stunning work of Kirstie Maclaren crossed the boundaries of jewellery and fashion, with origami influenced cascading folded garments that move position to change shape. Simply gorgeous. The images of a model were taken from Kirstie Maclaren’s blogspot. Keep an eye on this one!

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Rebecca Ng photo by Amelia GregoryMiddlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Rebecca Ng photo by Amelia Gregory
Rounded button hats in softly tactile stingray leathers and felt were rendered in berry colours from Rebecca Ng. Yummy indeed.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Louise McKay photo by Amelia Gregory
Huge metallic ceramic glazed balls hung on an oversized chain from Louise McKay. Wonderful.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Dino Wear By Kali Clever photo by Amelia Gregory
Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Dino Wear By Kali Clever photo by Amelia Gregory
Dino Wear By Kali Clever was a range of interlocking jigsaw necklaces that can be remade in different shapes, created by Kali Ratcliffe. She has a wonderful website which plays on her name – multiple hands show the way to some even more avante garde Dino inspired designs (see above). Go check it out.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Esme Newdick photo by Amelia Gregory
Latex collars were etched with dark circles by Esme Newdick, then decorated with brass and zinc.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Kerry Howley photo by Amelia Gregory
Winner of MoDA’s Arthur Silver Award prize, Kerry Howley had created bizarre necklaces out of human hair – they drew a gasp of disgust from the person next to me but were certainly very clever and innovative. She is inspired by emotional responses from the wearing of jewellery and frequently uses biotic materials in her jewellery such as bone, teeth and hair. Hair is already familiar in jewellery but is more usually found in lockets, rather than in intricate patterns inspired by wallpaper designs.

Middlesex University Jewellery graduate show 2011-Francesca Samels photo by Amelia Gregory
Francesca Samels showed her delicate jewellery on a beautiful dressing table installation. She was inspired by the mystery of objects that retain memories, thinking of ways to give life to forgotten jewels.

This was a really quite magical selection of new jewellery design but I have one major gripe – no websites on promotional postcards AT ALL. Luckily I found a few designers online anyway. The others, nowhere to be found at all. What were they thinking?!!!!

Categories ,ceramics, ,Dino, ,Dino Wear By Kali Clever, ,Esme Newdick, ,Francesca Samels, ,Free Range, ,Free Range Art and Design Show, ,freerange, ,Gold, ,Graduate Shows, ,Hair, ,Hussein Chalayan, ,Jenny Konnaris, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery and Accessories, ,Joys Cheung, ,Kali Jewellery, ,Kali Ratcliffe, ,Kerry Howley, ,Kirstie Maclaren, ,Latex, ,London Jewellery Week, ,Louise McKay, ,Memories, ,Metric Collective, ,middlesex university, ,millinery, ,MoDA’s Arthur Silver Award, ,Myia Bonner, ,Necklaces, ,Rebecca Ng, ,Samira Mazloom, ,shells, ,Stingray leather

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