Philipp Schueller by Casey Otremba.
Hao Feng Li by Kristina Vasiljeva.
Amelie Marciasini did the fur thing, this time in a riot of over-dyed fluorescent colours. Which once again begs the question, why? Surely fake does the job just as well, especially in a collection that pushed the boundaries of good taste. Just because Russian oligarchs have a lot of money does not make it a good idea to pander to their sense of style…
Katie Hildebrand collaborated with textiles designers Amelia Mullins and Andrew Kenny on a sophisticated collection that featured sheer wrap tops in shimmering greens or encrusted with tumbling beads. She has the basics of a web presence – find her here.
Nicola Morgan produced a very interesting collection focused on svelte tailoring techniques and integral beaded shaping. Nicola Morgan has the beginnings of a nice website where you can see previous collections.
Abbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras.
Abnit Nijjar explored the layering of fabrics, sometimes in different block shades and with protruding patterns of overlaid perspex.
I really liked Saskia Schijen‘s relaxed approach: sheer tops worn with wide legged trousers and big belts, oversized cardigans floating on top.
April Schmitz by Karolina Burdon.
April Schmitz used leather to create knotted fringing that swooshed from shoulders and dangled from waists in deep jewel colours.
Philipp Schueller by Katie Woodger.
Philipp Schueller by Sarah Harman.
Philipp Schueller apparently took inspiration from the psychedelic 60s and the rave-tastic 80s to produce his phosphorescent collection of plastic, sheer, fake fur, ruffled, over the top, eye catching garments… fit for the most extravert of songstrels.
Sarah Seaton-Burridge by Katie Woodger.
Sarah Seaton-Burridge also used fringing alongside laser cut layers and monochrome prints evocative of wild animal pelts.
Anna Smit produced a series of round shouldered coats and dresses with an intriguing print that merged contrasting colours in the manner of an airbrush. This was a seriously beautiful and original collection. Visit Anna Smit on her website here.
Last but very much not least Itziar Vaquer showed an astonishing collection of pearlised plastic slouch shoulder capes and dresses. It shouldn’t have worked but it did, with bells on.
Like I said, your guess is as good as mine…
All photography by Amelia Gregory.
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