Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with legendary fashion illustrator David Downton

David Downton is one of the most prolific living fashion illustrators, sickness and by far my favourite (no offence, healing contributors!) His loose, dosage visionary style seems so effortless and radiates elegance and beauty. Beginning his career as a commercial illustrator, it wasn’t until he attended Paris couture shows over a decade ago that he really began to explore fashion illustration. Since then, he’s created images of the world’s most groundbreaking fashion and its most beautiful women. From Dior to Dita Von Teese, he’s captured the essence and spirit of women and fashion like no other image maker before him. His images are everywhere, in books, in magazines, on billboards, on the walls of illustration students’ bedrooms and hell – even M&S tote bags.

This month sees the launch of Downton’s first solo book – Masters of Fashion Illustration. Inside, it explores the work of the greatest fashion illustrators of the twentieth century as well as a good look at his own work. You’re in for a treat here – page after page of lavish images celebrate the genre, featuring the greats of fashion illustration as well as looking at the influence of other artists and designers.

In the run up to the publication of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, I spoke to David about his illustrious career and the new book…

Hi David! I’m worried about asking all the questions you’ve been asked already… but… How did you become a fashion illustrator?
In a way, I was ‘mugged’ by fashion. I was fairly well established as an all-round commercial illustrator – who occasionally took on  fashion commissions –  when the FT sent me to Paris to draw at the couture shows. That was in July 1996 and I felt like I’d been given the keys to a magic kingdom.

How do your pieces come together?
Surprisingly slowly. I keep working until it looks effortless, which means doing a lot of drawing. I am looking for a kind of controlled spontaneity.

What techniques do you use?
It really depends on the brief, my mood and what I am trying to convey. I love using Rotring ink, because it is such a rich black and Dr. Marten’s black ink, because it has a velvety, violet cast to it. I also use gouache, watercolour, oil stick, occasionally acrylics… really anything that seems appropriate or inspiring at a given moment.

What qualities do fashion illustrations have that photographs or film don’t?
A personal sensibility (very few illustrations are the result of a team effort). A sense of the moment, fluidity, dexterity. Drawings tell the truth without needing to be accurate. The camera is a gadget (and we all love gadgets), but we have been saturated by photographic imagery. It’s a point and shoot world.

Who has been your favourite subject to draw, portrait-wise?
In no particular order: Cate Blanchett, Dita Von Teese, Erin O’ Connor, Paloma Picasso, Lady Amanda Harlech, Linda Evangelista and Carmen. I’ll stop there, but the truth is, everyone I’ve drawn has been inspiring.

Which designers are your favourites to illustrate?
Lacroix, Dior, Gaultier, Chanel, Valentino…. the masters.

Which other image makers have inspired you/do you admire?
Again, too many to list fully. How about Matisse, Boldini, Picasso, Francis Bacon, Euan Uglow, Réne Gruau, Mats Gustafsson, Tony Viramontes, Abraham Ganes, Al Hirshfield and Bob Peak to kick off with?

How do your collaborations come around?
It depends – sometimes I think of a project I’d love to do and pursue it….  At other times it comes to me, either directly, or via my agent. There are no hard and fast rules, but I’m always trying to scare something up.

Here at Amelia’s Magazine, we love fashion illustration and Amelia’s next book will be a celebration of the genre. What advice would you give to our army of up-and-coming illustrators?
My advice would be simple; keep drawing. You can’t be too good at it. And when you’re not drawing, keep looking, training your eye. Be professional. Fashion illustration is a profession, as well as a passion. Most of all enjoy it; you have the whole world at your fingertips.

There seems to be a real revival of fashion illustration at the moment – magazines and websites are showcasing sketchbooks and commissioning more and more illustrators and exhibitions are popping up everywhere. Why do you think illustration excites people?
I was once working backstage at Dior and a model said “Drawing… wow, that’s new!” I thought, ‘drawing is now so old, it’s new!’ In other words, like everything else it’s cyclical. I think a lot of people just forgot about it. But, to be honest, although everyone talks about a revival, fashion illustration never really went anywhere. Perhaps you just needed to look harder.

Will you ever use a computer as part of your imagemaking?!
Never say never, as they say.

What can we expect from the new book?
It’s beautiful! Gorgeous! A celebration of my favourite fashion illustrators from the turn of the 20th century up until the late 80s, followed by a portfolio of my own work.

How did the book come together? Did you enjoy creating it?
I worked very closely with the designer, Karen Morgan, and loved every agonising minute of it! It was a big leap for me. I’d done 2 issues of my own fashion illustration magazine Pourquoi Pas? and I thought I knew what I was doing, nevertheless it was daunting to do a 240 page book in my ‘spare’ time. But it was a labour of love; I got to look at the the work of the artists I most love; I met  Tony Viramontes’ brother and  René Bouché’s widow; I had access to the Vogue archive. I have to say, the publishers (Laurence King) were brilliant, very indulgent and I think we are all proud of what we achieved.

So, what else do you get up to?
I have two teenage children (actually my daughter’s 20, now), so all the usual things. I’m a lazy workaholic. When I’m not working I am very happy doing ‘nothing’. I live in the countryside an hour from London; a long way from the world of fashion.

David will be giving a talk at the London College of Fashion on Thursday 9th December. Keep an eye on our listings section for details soon!

Masters of Fashion Illustration by David Downton is out now, published by Laurence King. All images courtesy of David Downton.

Categories ,Abraham Ganes, ,acrylics, ,Al Hirshfield, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Bob Peak, ,Boldini, ,Carmen, ,Cate Blanchett, ,chanel, ,couture, ,David Downton, ,Dior, ,Dita Von Teese, ,Dr. Martens, ,Erin O’ Connor, ,Euan Uglow, ,fashion, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Francis Bacon, ,Gaultier, ,gouache, ,Lacroix, ,Lady Amanda Harlech, ,Linda Evangelista, ,london, ,M&S, ,matisse, ,Mats Gustafsson, ,oil stick, ,Paloma Picasso, ,paris, ,picasso, ,Pourquoi Pas, ,René Bouché, ,Réne Gruau, ,Rotring ink, ,Tony Viramontes, ,Valentino, ,watercolour

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with legendary fashion illustrator David Downton

David Downton is one of the most prolific living fashion illustrators, sickness and by far my favourite (no offence, healing contributors!) His loose, dosage visionary style seems so effortless and radiates elegance and beauty. Beginning his career as a commercial illustrator, it wasn’t until he attended Paris couture shows over a decade ago that he really began to explore fashion illustration. Since then, he’s created images of the world’s most groundbreaking fashion and its most beautiful women. From Dior to Dita Von Teese, he’s captured the essence and spirit of women and fashion like no other image maker before him. His images are everywhere, in books, in magazines, on billboards, on the walls of illustration students’ bedrooms and hell – even M&S tote bags.

This month sees the launch of Downton’s first solo book – Masters of Fashion Illustration. Inside, it explores the work of the greatest fashion illustrators of the twentieth century as well as a good look at his own work. You’re in for a treat here – page after page of lavish images celebrate the genre, featuring the greats of fashion illustration as well as looking at the influence of other artists and designers.

In the run up to the publication of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, I spoke to David about his illustrious career and the new book…

Hi David! I’m worried about asking all the questions you’ve been asked already… but… How did you become a fashion illustrator?
In a way, I was ‘mugged’ by fashion. I was fairly well established as an all-round commercial illustrator – who occasionally took on  fashion commissions –  when the FT sent me to Paris to draw at the couture shows. That was in July 1996 and I felt like I’d been given the keys to a magic kingdom.

How do your pieces come together?
Surprisingly slowly. I keep working until it looks effortless, which means doing a lot of drawing. I am looking for a kind of controlled spontaneity.

What techniques do you use?
It really depends on the brief, my mood and what I am trying to convey. I love using Rotring ink, because it is such a rich black and Dr. Marten’s black ink, because it has a velvety, violet cast to it. I also use gouache, watercolour, oil stick, occasionally acrylics… really anything that seems appropriate or inspiring at a given moment.

What qualities do fashion illustrations have that photographs or film don’t?
A personal sensibility (very few illustrations are the result of a team effort). A sense of the moment, fluidity, dexterity. Drawings tell the truth without needing to be accurate. The camera is a gadget (and we all love gadgets), but we have been saturated by photographic imagery. It’s a point and shoot world.

Who has been your favourite subject to draw, portrait-wise?
In no particular order: Cate Blanchett, Dita Von Teese, Erin O’ Connor, Paloma Picasso, Lady Amanda Harlech, Linda Evangelista and Carmen. I’ll stop there, but the truth is, everyone I’ve drawn has been inspiring.

Which designers are your favourites to illustrate?
Lacroix, Dior, Gaultier, Chanel, Valentino…. the masters.

Which other image makers have inspired you/do you admire?
Again, too many to list fully. How about Matisse, Boldini, Picasso, Francis Bacon, Euan Uglow, Réne Gruau, Mats Gustafsson, Tony Viramontes, Abraham Ganes, Al Hirshfield and Bob Peak to kick off with?

How do your collaborations come around?
It depends – sometimes I think of a project I’d love to do and pursue it….  At other times it comes to me, either directly, or via my agent. There are no hard and fast rules, but I’m always trying to scare something up.

Here at Amelia’s Magazine, we love fashion illustration and Amelia’s next book will be a celebration of the genre. What advice would you give to our army of up-and-coming illustrators?
My advice would be simple; keep drawing. You can’t be too good at it. And when you’re not drawing, keep looking, training your eye. Be professional. Fashion illustration is a profession, as well as a passion. Most of all enjoy it; you have the whole world at your fingertips.

There seems to be a real revival of fashion illustration at the moment – magazines and websites are showcasing sketchbooks and commissioning more and more illustrators and exhibitions are popping up everywhere. Why do you think illustration excites people?
I was once working backstage at Dior and a model said “Drawing… wow, that’s new!” I thought, ‘drawing is now so old, it’s new!’ In other words, like everything else it’s cyclical. I think a lot of people just forgot about it. But, to be honest, although everyone talks about a revival, fashion illustration never really went anywhere. Perhaps you just needed to look harder.

Will you ever use a computer as part of your imagemaking?!
Never say never, as they say.

What can we expect from the new book?
It’s beautiful! Gorgeous! A celebration of my favourite fashion illustrators from the turn of the 20th century up until the late 80s, followed by a portfolio of my own work.

How did the book come together? Did you enjoy creating it?
I worked very closely with the designer, Karen Morgan, and loved every agonising minute of it! It was a big leap for me. I’d done 2 issues of my own fashion illustration magazine Pourquoi Pas? and I thought I knew what I was doing, nevertheless it was daunting to do a 240 page book in my ‘spare’ time. But it was a labour of love; I got to look at the the work of the artists I most love; I met  Tony Viramontes’ brother and  René Bouché’s widow; I had access to the Vogue archive. I have to say, the publishers (Laurence King) were brilliant, very indulgent and I think we are all proud of what we achieved.

So, what else do you get up to?
I have two teenage children (actually my daughter’s 20, now), so all the usual things. I’m a lazy workaholic. When I’m not working I am very happy doing ‘nothing’. I live in the countryside an hour from London; a long way from the world of fashion.

David will be giving a talk at the London College of Fashion on Thursday 9th December. Keep an eye on our listings section for details soon!

Masters of Fashion Illustration by David Downton is out now, published by Laurence King. All images courtesy of David Downton.

Categories ,Abraham Ganes, ,acrylics, ,Al Hirshfield, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Bob Peak, ,Boldini, ,Carmen, ,Cate Blanchett, ,chanel, ,couture, ,David Downton, ,Dior, ,Dita Von Teese, ,Dr. Martens, ,Erin O’ Connor, ,Euan Uglow, ,fashion, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Francis Bacon, ,Gaultier, ,gouache, ,Lacroix, ,Lady Amanda Harlech, ,Linda Evangelista, ,london, ,M&S, ,matisse, ,Mats Gustafsson, ,oil stick, ,Paloma Picasso, ,paris, ,picasso, ,Pourquoi Pas, ,René Bouché, ,Réne Gruau, ,Rotring ink, ,Tony Viramontes, ,Valentino, ,watercolour

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Amelia’s Magazine | Peek-a-Boo! Boo Saville: Trolley Gallery

3

All artworks courtesy of Boo Saville. Indefinate series, clinic Oil on canvas, no rx 2008

Boo Saville’s show at the Trolley Gallery on Redchurch Street isn’t the kind of thing that tomes and volumes can be written about. But I’ll see how far I get. This is certainly her most confident work yet.

2

How do we feel?, Bleach on black cotton, 2010

The white backgrounds are gone, so has the ball-point pen. Instead we have richly dark spaces that exert magnetic and religious forces on the viewer. Where once we were separated from the subjects by a very stark distancing, we are now fully empathetic.

5Bog man, Biro on paper, 2006

Subject has become self for Saville. But there’s more than just one idea here. The imagery that might zip through your mind ranges from the intensity of being buried alive to the irreverent madcap guffaws of Noel Fielding. Sometimes it’s like finding a number and jet Francis Bacon in an archaeological dig. But that’s really about it for wordy analysis; this is simply work you have to look at (unlike most of Redchurch Street at the moment).

4

Ghost, Monoprint, 2009

It’s great to see Saville’s CV getting better and better. Boo Saville studied at the Slade School of Art, London. From 2003 she formed part of the WOWOW! collective in south London with the artist Matthew Stone. In 2007 she was a nominee for the Sovereign Painting Prize, and in the summer of 2008 she worked on a residency in Paris at the Cite des Arts. Her first solo show was at Martin Summers Fine Art in 2008.

lr_boo_saville_3_1The Explorer, Bleach on black cotton, 2009

Her work has recently been acquired by the forthcoming Museum of New and Old Art, Tazmania. She was recently featured in Francesca Gavin’s book ‘Hell Bound: New Gothic Art’ and her forthcoming book on British artist under 35 years old. In January 2010 she was featured in Vogue’s ‘British talent’ special, ES Magazine, The Times and The Independent. After Trolley her next solo show will be at Studio Visconti, Milan in September 2010. She lives and works in London. Definitely tipped for the top. Three of these six canvases are stunning. Go see. For a virtual tour, visit here.

6

Shi, Biro on paper, 2008

The Boo Saville exhibition runs from Fri 05 Feb 2010 – Sat 13 Mar 2010

The address is Trolley Books, 73a Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ  tel +44(0)20 7729 6591   fax +44(0)20 7739 5948

1

Categories ,Boo Saville, ,contemporary art, ,exhibition, ,Exhibition Review, ,Francis Bacon, ,london, ,Monoprint, ,painting, ,print, ,Saatchi Gallery, ,Slade School Of Fine Art, ,Trolley Gallery

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Amelia’s Magazine | Change Your Mind: 57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self – Book Review

Change your mind by Rod Judkins book review
Are you a creative person? Given the nature of my website I suspect that almost all my readers would regard themselves as creative in some way – and if not actively creating themselves, then appreciating, encouraging and inspiring the creations of others. Otherwise you wouldn’t be here, right? In fact I agree with Rod Judkins when he says that we all of us have the potential to be creative. I would go even further and say that humans are instinctively creative or we would not be where we are today, with an advanced society that generates so many amazing ideas in every area of life.

But maybe you are reading this and thinking ‘Pah, I don’t feel very creative. At least, not as creative as I’d like to be.‘ Well, fear not for help is at hand with the aid of Change Your Mind: 57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self from Hardie Grant, a nifty little yellow book by the aforementioned RCA fine arts graduate Rod Judkins, who lectures in creative thinking at places such as Central Saint Martins. According to Judkins self belief accounts for 90% of success, and this book is here to bolster just such a positive outlook when it comes to creative thinking.

Change Your Mind by Rod Judkins book review
I must admit when I first saw this book I thought it might just be a lot of hot air like so many others of this ilk, but it proved me wrong. Sure, it’s petite, pretty to look at and easy to digest, either by dipping in and out of for inspiration, or in just an hour or two wholesale. But it also contains plenty of great ideas backed up by handy quotes from famous people and interesting historical facts.

‘Do not see failure as a sign of defeat, but one of many stepping-stones to success.’

Some ideas are more controversial than others, for instance Judkins implores us to embrace technology – or risk being overwhelmed by it. There are probably many determinedly luddite artists who disagree with him. He also says that ‘People will support someone with a passion. They will want to help you and money will be part of that help.‘ Having run Amelia’s Magazine for nigh on ten years, during which time I’ve had no great offers of financial worth, and indeed have barely scraped together a living, I’m not sure I wholly agree with this postulation: it might give people false hope. But then again, I am a living breathing example of passion driving someone forward or I wouldn’t be writing this today: I run Amelia’s Magazine because I can’t help myself.

Change Your Mind by Rod Judkins book review amateurs
‘Don’t look for fashion in a clothes store or history in a museum. Look for fashion in a grocer and history in a funfair.’

Many of the snappily titled mini chapters undoubtedly offer good advice: creatives are urged to Live the Dream, to let their minds wander to create the stuff that our world is made of. Collaborate, innovate, don’t find excuses for why you can’t create, make sure you hang out with people who encourage you, not those who pull you down. Don’t strive to be original, when producing imitations often sparks the creation of brand new work. One of the most fascinating elements of this book are the little details such as the fact that Francis Bacon copied Picasso: you can imagine Judkins entrancing his students as he metes out these tidbits in his lectures.

‘To live creatively you have to surround yourself with things that interest you…Most creative thinkers are collectors, often of esoteric object.’

I particularly like this quote: manna to someone like me, an inveterate hoarder who has a house full of stuff that I’ve collected just in case I may need to use it in a project one day. In the next breath though, we are urged to make our workplaces streamlined… that one I could do with working on. The book ends with the comment that ‘While everyone else is thinking of reasons why a task is too difficult, impossible, the creative are thinking of reasons why it’s possible.’ So, what are you waiting for?

Change Your Mind by Rod Judkins book review creativity
If you need anymore persuasion why not pick up a copy of Change Your Mind for yourself? It’s a pleasure to read and I’m fairly sure it will get those creative juices flowing. And if you are in need of more practical help, there’s always the Startup Showcase from the School for Creative Startups: on this weekend at Somerset House. There’s a fascinating array of speakers including my mentor Patricia van den Akker of The Design Trust.

All images courtesy of Change Your Mind: 57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self, published by Hardie Grant.

Categories ,57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Change Your Mind, ,Francis Bacon, ,Hardie Books, ,Live the Dream, ,Patricia van den Akker, ,picasso, ,rca, ,review, ,Rod Judkins, ,School for Creative Startups, ,Somerset House, ,Startup Showcase, ,The Design Trust

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Amelia’s Magazine | Change Your Mind: 57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self – Book Review

Change your mind by Rod Judkins book review
Are you a creative person? Given the nature of my website I suspect that almost all my readers would regard themselves as creative in some way – and if not actively creating themselves, then appreciating, encouraging and inspiring the creations of others. Otherwise you wouldn’t be here, right? In fact I agree with Rod Judkins when he says that we all of us have the potential to be creative. I would go even further and say that humans are instinctively creative or we would not be where we are today, with an advanced society that generates so many amazing ideas in every area of life.

But maybe you are reading this and thinking ‘Pah, I don’t feel very creative. At least, not as creative as I’d like to be.‘ Well, fear not for help is at hand with the aid of Change Your Mind: 57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self from Hardie Grant, a nifty little yellow book by the aforementioned RCA fine arts graduate Rod Judkins, who lectures in creative thinking at places such as Central Saint Martins. According to Judkins self belief accounts for 90% of success, and this book is here to bolster just such a positive outlook when it comes to creative thinking.

Change Your Mind by Rod Judkins book review
I must admit when I first saw this book I thought it might just be a lot of hot air like so many others of this ilk, but it proved me wrong. Sure, it’s petite, pretty to look at and easy to digest, either by dipping in and out of for inspiration, or in just an hour or two wholesale. But it also contains plenty of great ideas backed up by handy quotes from famous people and interesting historical facts.

‘Do not see failure as a sign of defeat, but one of many stepping-stones to success.’

Some ideas are more controversial than others, for instance Judkins implores us to embrace technology – or risk being overwhelmed by it. There are probably many determinedly luddite artists who disagree with him. He also says that ‘People will support someone with a passion. They will want to help you and money will be part of that help.‘ Having run Amelia’s Magazine for nigh on ten years, during which time I’ve had no great offers of financial worth, and indeed have barely scraped together a living, I’m not sure I wholly agree with this postulation: it might give people false hope. But then again, I am a living breathing example of passion driving someone forward or I wouldn’t be writing this today: I run Amelia’s Magazine because I can’t help myself.

Change Your Mind by Rod Judkins book review amateurs
‘Don’t look for fashion in a clothes store or history in a museum. Look for fashion in a grocer and history in a funfair.’

Many of the snappily titled mini chapters undoubtedly offer good advice: creatives are urged to Live the Dream, to let their minds wander to create the stuff that our world is made of. Collaborate, innovate, don’t find excuses for why you can’t create, make sure you hang out with people who encourage you, not those who pull you down. Don’t strive to be original, when producing imitations often sparks the creation of brand new work. One of the most fascinating elements of this book are the little details such as the fact that Francis Bacon copied Picasso: you can imagine Judkins entrancing his students as he metes out these tidbits in his lectures.

‘To live creatively you have to surround yourself with things that interest you…Most creative thinkers are collectors, often of esoteric object.’

I particularly like this quote: manna to someone like me, an inveterate hoarder who has a house full of stuff that I’ve collected just in case I may need to use it in a project one day. In the next breath though, we are urged to make our workplaces streamlined… that one I could do with working on. The book ends with the comment that ‘While everyone else is thinking of reasons why a task is too difficult, impossible, the creative are thinking of reasons why it’s possible.’ So, what are you waiting for?

Change Your Mind by Rod Judkins book review creativity
If you need anymore persuasion why not pick up a copy of Change Your Mind for yourself? It’s a pleasure to read and I’m fairly sure it will get those creative juices flowing. And if you are in need of more practical help, there’s always the Startup Showcase from the School for Creative Startups: on this weekend at Somerset House. There’s a fascinating array of speakers including my mentor Patricia van den Akker of The Design Trust.

All images courtesy of Change Your Mind: 57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self, published by Hardie Grant.

Categories ,57 Ways To Unlock Your Creative Self, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Change Your Mind, ,Francis Bacon, ,Hardie Books, ,Live the Dream, ,Patricia van den Akker, ,picasso, ,rca, ,review, ,Rod Judkins, ,School for Creative Startups, ,Somerset House, ,Startup Showcase, ,The Design Trust

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