Amelia’s Magazine | British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: James Long

James Long A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
James Long A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

As part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia and in tandem with the British Council initiative that brought us over to Moscow three British fashion designers were invited to put on catwalk shows on Sunday 3rd April 2011.

Lulu Kennedy, <a target=about it Marios Schwab, try James Long and Louise Gray” title=”Lulu Kennedy, cure Marios Schwab, James Long and Louise Gray” width=”480″ height=”320″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-39594″ />
Lulu Kennedy, Marios Schwab, James Long and Louise Gray. Photograph by Maxim Emelyanov.

Although we shared a hotel with Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East and a selection of her star designers we didn’t spend much time with them – whilst we were networking and lecturing they were busy casting models and organising their shows. I haven’t seen any of these designers on the catwalk before so it was a really great chance to see them up close for the first time, in a totally different environment to London Fashion Week.

James Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russian Fashion Week by Sam Parr
James Long A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

James Long was the newest featured designer, about whom I knew very little, and was the first to show on Sunday afternoon. He graduated from the RCA in 2007 as a designer of menswear, but this show was all about monochromatic knitwear for women, accessorised with some wonderful geometric patterned colourful belt bands and lifted with the midway appearance of a very cute bright red mini dress. Most successful was the juxtaposition of different textures: large knit cabling and fine gauge maxi dresses, fluffy gillets, sweeping shawls and ground grazing skirts with layers of wispy fabric floating free. I was particularly enamoured of his knitted cream clutch bag, though I’m not sure how practical it would be. This was a very confident collection: here’s hoping I don’t have to go all the way to Russia to see his next show.

James Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia GregoryJames Long A/W 2011 by Jane Young
James Long A/W 2011 by Jane Young.

You can read Lulu Kennedy’s blog about the trip right here. They were indeed having a super fun time on the flight home, whilst I was busy gossiping with Toby Meadows.

All catwalk photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,British Council, ,catwalk, ,Congress Centre, ,Fashion East, ,James Long, ,Jane Young, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Kills Me, ,Louise Gray, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Marios Schwab, ,Maxim Emelyanov, ,menswear, ,Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, ,monochrome, ,Moscow, ,Practicum: British Fashion, ,Royal College of Art, ,Russia!, ,Sam Parr, ,Toby Meadows, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review and Interview

Dans La Vie by Sarah Underwood
Dans La Vie A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood

For Dans La Vie’s new A/W 2013 collection Invisible Enemy, Threat Found Japanese designer Rira Sugawara revelled in a mish-mash of fabric textures and the bold yet intricate prints that she has become known for. But this time she eschewed the brightness of previous catwalk shows, choosing instead a sombre theme inspired by cyber attacks: the head of the Mona Lisa appeared in swirling prints, but models sported sinister balaclavas, gothic black lips and giant crosses as they stomped down the catwalk to a suitably dark soundtrack.

Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie by Chloe Douglass
Dans La Vie A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass

With an academic background in both print design and art history Dans la Vie takes inspiration from Pop Art and traditional Japanese printing techniques to create collections centred on the concept of ‘Clash Beauty’. A few days before her catwalk show Rira Sugawara answered these questions.

Dans la Vie London Fashion Week AW 2013
Dans la Vie London Fashion Week AW 2013
Dans La Vie by Angela Lamb
Dans La Vie A/W 2013 by Angela Lamb

Your collections are certainly not for shrinking violets, what are the main characteristics of the women who wear your clothes?
Intellectual, independent and strong woman who have a strong outlook on life I can see wearing my clothes.

Which public figure do you dream of dressing?
When I was growing up Madonna was a huge inspiration to me, so to dress her would be a dream come too. I’d also like to dress Azealia Banks, Jessie J and Rihanna: they would also be great.

Dans la Vie London Fashion Week AW 2013
Dans la Vie London Fashion Week AW 2013
Dans La Vie by Claire Kearns
Dans La Vie A/W 2013 by Claire Kearns

You’re from Japan but have lived in France and have traveled a lot- which place has influenced you the most?
I find inspiration in every city and every street I visit. Paris brought me fashion intelligence based on the philosophical spirit to be liberated through culture and diversity. In New York I experienced the exciting energy, and in Milan, an abundance of new techniques

What led you to move to France? How easy was it for you to get used to the classic French style compared to typically edgy Japanese fashion?
I moved to France to gain experience in a fashion atelier, I feel it was one of the best moves I ever made as it was after this that I set up Dans La Vie. I think the French style influenced me a lot, it wasn’t hard to get used to at all.

Dans la Vie  London Fashion Week AW 2013
Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie by Sarah Underwood
Dans La Vie A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood

Would you ever consider taking part in any of the main Fashion Weeks other than London? How about Tokyo, since your collections seem to reflect the city’s renowned street style?
One of the key elements of my collection is ‘Clash Beauty’: pushing the boundaries of conventional beauty. London enables me to push these boundaries, I would consider showing at other Fashion Weeks including Tokyo as the Street Style is like no other. However I want to concentrate on London for the time being.

Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie by Isher Dhiman
Dans La Vie A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

Which other designers inspire you?
Alexander McQueen was such an inspiring designer: I love the structure of his pieces and the way they were made.

Do you ever incorporate current trends into your collections?
Yes, I try to incorporate current trends into my collections as much as possible, at the moment everywhere you look is print!

Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans la Vie AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans la Vie A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Last season you used prints from Jasper Jones’ ‘Target’ painting from the late 60s, and Roy Lichtenstein’s ‘Brush Stroke’ and ‘Explosion’. What artwork has inspired or will be included in A/W 2013?
The new collection entitled Invisible Enemy, Threat Found is an altogether darker collection and has older influences such as Italian Renaissance Art, with inspiration being drawn from Botticelli.

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Angela Lamb, ,Azealia Banks, ,Botticelli, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Claire Kearns, ,Clash Beauty, ,Cyber Attacks, ,Dans La Vie, ,gothic, ,Invisible Enemy Threat Found, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Italian Renaissance Art, ,japanese, ,Jessie J, ,Madonna, ,Milan, ,Mona Lisa, ,new york, ,paris, ,Pop Art, ,print, ,Rihanna, ,Rira Sugawara, ,Sarah Underwood, ,Street Style

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