Illustration by Gemma Milly
The shows at On|Off this year have so far been outstanding. While most of the designers rightfully deserve a place on the BFC stage, pharmacy the On|Off team and it’s venue is the most creative by far.
When you get four designers in one of their shows, page you know you’re on to a winner. On|Off presents… was a handpicked selection of the most hip and contemporary talent, dosage deserving a showcase.
In hindsight, with the fashion we were about to see, we really didn’t need sweetening up, but On|Off had laid on a rather fruity cocktail that went down far too well, particularly when you have nothing better to do than drink. Well, and look at their small static exhibition of even MORE designers they wanted to showcase. These were Michela Carraro, where a seventies colour palette and flattering shapes were a treat;
Prose Studio, whose vibrant graphic duvet jacket made me want to commit theft;
…and Yang Du, renowned for outrageous knitwear. Sadly I couldn’t get anywhere near the latter’s designs as the room was packed full!
Onto the catwalk show. Opening the spectacle was Samantha Cole, where models appeared like statues wearing quilted sculptural numbers.
Geometric shapes toyed with the female silhouette, giving exaggerated hips and shoulders. Channelling Inuits with hair made to look frozen and huge hoods, this was a really polished collection; there’s no wonder Cole has already won the accolade of Best Womenswear Designer at New York Fashion Week.
Next up, in a stark contrast, Txell Miras’ was a collection consisting only of black. Some incredible craftsmanship here; beautiful sweeping shapes, layers and diagonal cuts, finished with racy PVC boots.
Derek Lawler’s was also a collection of dark monochromatic hues. Elements of tailoring were combined with sleek feminine forms, and outfits were body-con and very, very sexy. Each piece included masses of shiny woven loops, with the appearance of telephone wires.
These highlighted specific parts of the body, including the hips and bust, before Lawler threw caution to the wind and created pieces entirely made up of this strange, yet mesmerising, technique.
Mister + Mister were, for me, undoubtedly the stars of the show.
Illustration by Gemma Milly
Bravely stepping into menswear with their bespoke contemporary jewellery label, theirs was a collection of outstanding innovation. Elements of typical menswear design were given the Mister + Mister treatment, reproducing bib shirts and bow ties in leather and PVC and even teddy-bear fur.
All-in-one leather pieces were dark, moody and rather severe, and if I could pull them off, I most certainly would.
They also win the award for most tit-tastic male model of London Fashion Week so far…
Yeah, so we didn’t get a ticket to Westwood or Mark Fast. Who cares when the London Fashion Week scene is jam-packed with fabulous, innovative and fresh new talent?
Categories ,Derek Lawler, ,London Fashion Week, ,menswear, ,Mister + Mister, ,new fashion, ,Ones To Watch, ,onoff, ,Samantha Cole, ,Txell Miras, ,Womenswear
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