Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bora Aksu (more)


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

It wasn’t until the Jena.Theo show that I got my first hit of fashion adrenaline this LFW. The design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have created a Spring Summer 2011 collection that combines both the theatrical and the wearable in draped layers of silk and jersey, treat side effects shot through with the Midas Touch. Gold leaf was applied not only to models’ eyelids and nails, view but also to wrists, ankles, collarbones and occasionally a breast or belly button that happened to be exposed.

Though this would undoubtedly not go down well in the Muslim world today, culturally the show was a mix of the old Arabian Nights- or Prince of Persia to the computer game generation- meets 19th century British colonialism; models’ heads swathed in oversized turbans or hair backcombed into huge Victorian updos.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The winners of Fashion Fringe 2009 struck a perfect balance between catwalk creativity and clothes with the potential to actually be worn in real life; with a wonderful take on a Victorian hoop skirt to finish the show. This is what I want from an LFW show; something fun and inventive as well as wearable clothes.

I sat with the team behind the new Young British Designers website, which champions the likes of Jena.Theo; keep an eye out on Amelia’s for an interview with them coming soon. Adriana was in fact loyally wearing an outfit by the design duo.

We were in the second row but got bumped forward into the front row when there were a few spaces at the last minute; which meant I managed to get a really good, close up look at the raw painted gold leaf stiletto platform shoes.

It also of course, meant goody bag ahoy!Ironically, for a fashion gift, this included one of the best brownies I’ve ever eaten; in fact many of the stalls in the LFW exhibitions have sweets or cakes on their stands, though you never see anyone eating them. Except me.Which is why you won’t see me bearing my gilded navel in an Aladdin-esque ensemble anytime soon.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

London Fashion Week has begun (NB: at the time of writing, order it was the end of the second day) and apart from the excitement at spotting various London boutique owners, try mild celebrities and the increasing chances of seeing a model stumble from the heady heights of unstable shoes, information pills the week is of course about FASHION. From the stalwarts of Simon Rocha and Betty Jackson to the increasing number of designers who are the”ones to watch,” it is a to put it mildly a frantic dash from venue to queue to venue to queue and back to the BFC for a quick cuppa before starting all over again. An incredibly enjoyable dash, but a dash none the less.

On Friday (17th September 2010) Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of touching base with Eun Jeong’s S/S 11 static presentation in the alcoves of the Russell Chambers, Covent Garden. The designers studio presentation was set amid the odd jumble of relics frequently obtained during the industrious weeks leading up to LFW. Exceptionally pretty models were positioned around the fringes of the room and the press pack moved in hapazadly through the three rooms of the exhibition documenting the clothes positioned on mannikins and on seated or standing models.

One room consisted entirely of props painted white, which rather effectively set off the crystal-embellished shoes, whilst drawing attention to Eon Jeung’s attention to draping. From looking at the shoes, the inspiration for the sewing basket may have come from Jeong’s shoe designs, rather than the other way round. The middle room consisted of a beautiful floral pattern that was reminiscent of Future Classics in cut.

The final room was occupied solely by mannikins dressed in an assortment of designs including a beautifully simple dress embellished with a touch of bright colour on the shoulders. Quickly reflecting on the first two days of the designers this reviewer has seen at the September 2010 edition of London Fashion Week. Many appear to be playing it safe and producing clothes fit for the boutique market.

Looking at the standard of Eon Jeung’s designs for S/S 2011, it is hard to believe that this is the designer’s third season since graduating from THAT Central Saint Martin’s MA.

The organised chaos of London Fashion Week has begun (NB: at the time of writing, approved it was the end of the second day) and apart from the excitement at spotting various London boutique owners, online mild celebrities and the increasing chances of seeing a model stumble from the heady heights of unstable shoes, web the week is of course about FASHION. From the stalwarts of Simon Rocha and Betty Jackson to the increasing number of designers who are the”ones to watch,” it is a to put it mildly a frantic dash from venue to queue to venue to queue and back to the BFC for a quick cuppa before starting all over again. An incredibly enjoyable dash, but a dash none the less.

On Friday (17th September 2010) Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of touching base with Eun Jeong’s S/S 11 static presentation in the alcoves of the Russell Chambers, Covent Garden. The designers studio presentation was set amid the odd jumble of relics frequently obtained during the industrious weeks leading up to LFW. Exceptionally pretty models were positioned around the fringes of the room and the press pack moved in hapazadly through the three rooms of the exhibition documenting the clothes positioned on mannikins and on seated or standing models.

One room consisted entirely of props painted white, which rather effectively set off the crystal-embellished shoes, whilst drawing attention to Eon Jeung’s attention to draping. From looking at the shoes, the inspiration for the sewing basket may have come from Jeong’s shoe designs, rather than the other way round. The middle room consisted of a beautiful floral pattern that was reminiscent of Future Classics in cut.

The final room was occupied solely by mannikins dressed in an assortment of designs including a beautifully simple dress embellished with a touch of bright colour on the shoulders. Quickly reflecting on the first two days of the designers this reviewer has seen at the September 2010 edition of London Fashion Week. Many appear to be playing it safe and producing clothes fit for the boutique market.

Looking at the standard of Eon Jeung’s designs for S/S 2011, it is hard to believe that this is the designer’s third season since graduating from THAT Central Saint Martin’s MA.

The organised chaos of London Fashion Week has begun (NB: at the time of writing, advice it was the end of the second day) and apart from the excitement at spotting various London boutique owners, pills mild celebrities and the increasing chances of seeing a model stumble from the heady heights of unstable shoes, the week is of course about FASHION.

From the stalwarts of Simon Rocha and Betty Jackson to the increasing number of designers who are the”ones to watch,” it is a to put it mildly a frantic dash from venue to queue to venue to queue and back to the BFC for a quick cuppa before starting all over again. An incredibly enjoyable dash, but a dash none the less.

On Friday (17th September 2010) Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of touching base with Eun Jeong’s S/S 11 static presentation in the alcoves of the Russell Chambers, Covent Garden. The designers studio presentation was set amid the odd jumble of relics frequently obtained during the industrious weeks leading up to LFW.

Exceptionally pretty models were positioned around the fringes of the room and the press pack moved in hapazadly through the three rooms of the exhibition documenting the clothes positioned on mannikins and on seated or standing models.

One room consisted entirely of props painted white, which rather effectively set off the crystal-embellished shoes, whilst drawing attention to Eon Jeung’s attention to draping. From looking at the shoes, the inspiration for the sewing basket may have come from Jeong’s shoe designs, rather than the other way round. The middle room consisted of a beautiful floral pattern that was reminiscent of Future Classics in cut.

The final room was occupied solely by mannikins dressed in an assortment of designs including a beautifully simple dress embellished with intricate black beading across the breadth of the dress. Looking at the standard of Eon Jeung’s designs for S/S 2011, it is hard to believe that this is the designer’s third season since graduating from THAT Central Saint Martin’s MA.

Quickly reflecting on the first two days of the designers this reviewer has seen at the September 2010 edition of London Fashion Week. Many appear to be playing it safe and producing clothes fit for the boutique market.

naomi-law-bora-aksu
Bora Aksu by Naomi Law.

Oh how I do love a bit of Bora Aksu. As well as being a one of a kind creative genius he is surely the nicest man in fashion – as you will know if you’ve read my pre LFW interview. I attended his show at Victoria House with Sally yesterday, sildenafil and she has also written up her review of it here.

Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

It was a far more intimate venue than last season’s show in the BFC tent, about it which meant that I got a brilliant view of Bora’s extraordinary artistry up close. Merely a hands reach away the models strode past in bulging loose bun beehives accessorised with giant ants (the loosely backcombed up-do is becoming a bit of a theme this fashion week) and tangled spiders web lacy tights.

Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
naomi-law-bora-aksu-1
Bora Aksu by Naomi Law.

This season the palette took a darker turn, consisting of steely greys, navy and a gorgeous deep red. Taking his alienesque styling of last season to its next *logical* step, the protrusions seemed to curl ever further out of dresses, or perhaps it was just my new proximity which made it seem so. For more commercial effect ruffles, brocade and lace also made an appearance in creative mashups.

Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

After the show I was hastily approached by Blow PR to see if one of my photos could be whisked off to the newspapers – something to do with an urgent request for “harem pants” – so I spent the next half an hour in the frantic press room, where I managed to say hello to Bora as he was giving interviews in the corner. He was utterly delightful of course: as I said, the nicest man in fashion. And as innovative as ever.

Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Alienesque, ,Blow PR, ,Bora Aksu, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Law, ,onoff, ,Sally Mumby-Croft, ,Victoria House

Similar Posts: