Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.
Emilio de la Morena really took this season’s colour to heart, page and then some. His sleekly elegant aesthetic was emphasised by models with loosely scraped back long hair and tomato red lips, their svelte calves encased in mid length dresses with a slight lingerie flavour in the tight ridging, dangling ribbons and sheer panels – proof that sexy doesn’t have to mean revealing. Each individual panel was painstakingly stitched together to create a grid-like design, sometimes bordered with spaghetti thin leather tubing, and then with tiny beads.
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.
Delightful reds and orange were counter-balanced with the introduction of pale pink, ivory and plum. Swirling zig-zag ribbon details appeared in organza bib panels that layered over calf length skirts. Severe black wool suits were broken with bands of silvery lurex and metallic red threads. Shoes by Charlotte Olympia were particularly delicious: suede platforms tied tightly with silky ribbons, very high and very red.
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.
The collection was partly inspired by the tragic photos of Francesca Woodman, who killed herself at the age of 22, but also by the stoic elegance of Victorian ladies on film, which was most revealed in the necks, which were almost ubiquitously high and ruffled.
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.
I profiled Emilio de la Morena in issue 08 of Amelia’s Magazine (still available here) many years ago, and this collection reminded me exactly why I had been attracted to him in the first place: he makes beautiful, sexy and wearable clothes with an elegant hand-crafted twist. This was an absolutely stunning collection. If only I were tall and graceful enough to wear such creations myself.
Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Emilio de la Morena by Sandra Contreras.
You can see more of Joana Faria’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion, and read Helen Martin’s rather more eloquent review of this show here.
Just off Brick Lane, pharm past the curry houses and down a side street, stomach is where Hinshelwood de Borman have set up their newest pop-up shop. My only complaint after spending an hour leafing through the curiosities of ‘Field Work’ is that this isn’t a permanent shop – because it is absolutely lovely.
The selection by Caitlin Hinshelwood and Rose de Borman offers steep competition when it comes to picking a favourite, viagra buy but I think the printed textiles from shop founders Caitlin and Rose are the stars of the show. Stacks of cotton and silk cushions are adorned with animal prints – one with giraffes, lions and bears, the next with frogs and snakes, and so on. The patterns are repeated on post cards, purses and on dresses for sale at the back. Soft colours and gorgeous, subtle patterns make for unorthodox and brilliant little outfits – like the dress covered in prints of root vegetables.
Cushions by Caitlin Hinshelwood and Rose de Borman
Kitty Farrow Press has created a special range of notebooks for Field Work, all marked with an antlers logo. Continuing the animal theme are spoons cut from antlers by Kirsten Hecktermann – if that sounds like too much the shop also has some carved wooden spoons on offer.
Other treats include some very cute medieval replica pewter brooches, papier-mâché masks, and lovely old-style screwdriver sets from Elementary Design. The taxidermy is the work of Jazmine Miles-Long, an ethical taxidermist who only uses animals that have died from natural causes. Shipping Forecast Knitwear has some fantastic wooly hats on display, made in the UK from Aran wool but bringing to mind windswept isles in Nordic waters.
Neal Jones
Down the stairs is the gallery, and the show is entitled ‘Weird Folk’ with art by Betsy Dadd, Neal Jones and Max Wade. The warm and playful paintings almost beg to be touched, especially the smeared brush-strokes and rough edges of some of the art – which makes me want to start painting again as the artists make it look like so much fun.
Betsy Dadd
Field Work runs between 15th and 20th March in Spitalfields, at 65 Hanbury Street, London E1 5JP. For more information see our listing. If you miss it there’s an online shop here.
Categories ,art, ,Betsy Dadd, ,Brick Lane, ,Caitlin Hinshelwood, ,Elementary Design, ,Field Work, ,Gallery, ,Hinshelwood de Borman, ,Jazmine Miles-Long, ,Kirsten Hecktermann, ,Kitty Farrow Press, ,london, ,Max Wade, ,Neal Jones, ,Pop-up Shop, ,Rose de Borman, ,Shipping Forecast Knitwear, ,spitalfields, ,textile print, ,vintage, ,Weird Folk
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