Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Presentation Review: Jacob Kimmie

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

It wasn’t until the Jena.Theo show that I got my first hit of fashion adrenaline this LFW. The design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have created a Spring Summer 2011 collection that combines both the theatrical and the wearable in draped layers of silk and jersey, cost shot through with the Midas Touch. Gold leaf was applied not only to models’ eyelids and nails, rx but also to wrists, illness ankles, collarbones and occasionally a breast or belly button that happened to be exposed.

Though this would undoubtedly not go down well in the Muslim world today, culturally the show was a mix of the old Arabian Nights- or Prince of Persia to the computer game generation- meets 19th century British colonialism; models’ heads swathed in oversized turbans or hair backcombed into huge Victorian updos.

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The winners of Fashion Fringe 2009 struck a perfect balance between catwalk creativity and clothes with the potential to actually be worn in real life; with a wonderful take on a Victorian hoop skirt to finish the show. This is what I want from an LFW show; something fun and inventive as well as wearable clothes.

I sat with the team behind the new Young British Designers website, which champions the likes of Jena.Theo; keep an eye out on Amelia’s for an interview with them coming soon. Adriana was in fact loyally wearing an outfit by the design duo.

We were in the second row but got bumped forward into the front row when there were a few spaces at the last minute; which meant I managed to get a really good, close up look at the raw painted gold leaf stiletto platform shoes.

It also of course, meant goody bag ahoy!Ironically, for a fashion gift, this included one of the best brownies I’ve ever eaten; in fact many of the stalls in the LFW exhibitions have sweets or cakes on their stands, though you never see anyone eating them. Except me.Which is why you won’t see me bearing my gilded navel in an Aladdin-esque ensemble anytime soon.

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

Jacob Kimmie S/S 2011, find illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

I’d really wanted to catch Jacob Kimmie’s S/S 2011 presentation at The Studio (wherever that was) but time was running out after Ashley Isham’s late runner and I didn’t think I was going to make it. Luckily, ed on my way to Kingston MA’s somewhat uninspiring show (more of that later) I managed to bumble past ‘The Studio’ which was moments from Freemason’s Hall.

On the door I was greeted by the smiliest person I had seen all day, and when you’re so exhausted that you fear you may slip into a coma at anytime, it’s a welcome break to meet somebody like this when you’re surrounded by miserable morons. I demand that this lovely girl, who I don’t know the name of, starts a School for Smiling and signs up half the PR girls at fashion week immediately.

The Studio happened to be at the top of 1001 stairs, which I was in no way prepared for. Luckily an equally smiley girl was poised at the top and provided water, which I assume was a condition set by the Health and Safety Executive.

The studio really needs to get its ceiling looked at. Tut, tut.

Anyway, inside the maze of rooms had been organised to take a one-way-system approach, and relatively normal looking models were perched in each room wearing Kimmie’s S/S 2011 collection. This was a far cry from his A/W 2010 collection of bold monochrome pieces. There was plenty of colour, the fabrics were more forgiving, and there was less emphasis on harsh shapes – but die cut sculptural accessories, created in collaboration with Alice Welsh and Fiona Ross, covered heads and arms and added a futuristic twist.

Silk trapeze dresses, graphic prints and floaty maxi numbers stood side by side with masculine tailoring with a futuristic aesthetic, tailored in wool crepe for that oh-so-luxurious look and feel. Sounds a bit odd ball but it actually worked – and the colour palette, of mint green, fiery florals and, of course, monochrome, brought the collection together.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

I particularly enjoyed this woman-of-the-future look, and actually if you strip away the conceptual accessories (if they’re not your bag) what you’re left with is exemplary and contemporary tailoring that is totally wearable but still fashion forward.

Menswear was on offer too, although this saw Kimmie go back to his grayscale ideals and didn’t stand out amongst blasts of vivid colour. I expect that, with a bit of work, this can be as satisfying as his well-received womenswear.

I’m still worrying about this model two days later. I think if I had pushed her, she would have fallen over straight up like a domino. I worry she’s still standing there right now.

Some perv filming up somebody’s skirt.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Alice Welsh, ,Convent Garden, ,Felicities PR, ,Fiona Ross, ,florals, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,London Fashion Week, ,monochrome, ,S/S 2011, ,Smile, ,Stairs, ,The Studio, ,Trapeze dresses

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