Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

It wasn’t until the Jena.Theo show that I got my first hit of fashion adrenaline this LFW. The design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have created a Spring Summer 2011 collection that combines both the theatrical and the wearable in draped layers of silk and jersey, information pills more about shot through with the Midas Touch. Gold leaf was applied not only to models’ eyelids and nails, but also to wrists, ankles, collarbones and occasionally a breast or belly button that happened to be exposed.

Though this would undoubtedly not go down well in the Muslim world today, culturally the show was a mix of the old Arabian Nights- or Prince of Persia to the computer game generation- meets 19th century British colonialism; models’ heads swathed in oversized turbans or hair backcombed into huge Victorian updos.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The winners of Fashion Fringe 2009 struck a perfect balance between catwalk creativity and clothes with the potential to actually be worn in real life; with a wonderful take on a Victorian hoop skirt to finish the show. This is what I want from an LFW show; something fun and inventive as well as wearable clothes.

I sat with the team behind the new Young British Designers website, which champions the likes of Jena.Theo; keep an eye out on Amelia’s for an interview with them coming soon. Adriana was in fact loyally wearing an outfit by the design duo.

We were in the second row but got bumped forward into the front row when there were a few spaces at the last minute; which meant I managed to get a really good, close up look at the raw painted gold leaf stiletto platform shoes.

It also of course, meant goody bag ahoy!Ironically, for a fashion gift, this included one of the best brownies I’ve ever eaten; in fact many of the stalls in the LFW exhibitions have sweets or cakes on their stands, though you never see anyone eating them. Except me.Which is why you won’t see me bearing my gilded navel in an Aladdin-esque ensemble anytime soon.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

It wasn’t until the Jena.Theo show that I got my first hit of fashion adrenaline this LFW. The design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have created a Spring Summer 2011 collection that combines both the theatrical and the wearable in draped layers of silk and jersey, pharm shot through with the Midas Touch. Gold leaf was applied not only to models’ eyelids and nails, but also to wrists, ankles, collarbones and occasionally a breast or belly button that happened to be exposed.

Though this would undoubtedly not go down well in the Muslim world today, culturally the show was a mix of the old Arabian Nights- or Prince of Persia to the computer game generation- meets 19th century British colonialism; models’ heads swathed in oversized turbans or hair backcombed into huge Victorian updos.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The winners of Fashion Fringe 2009 struck a perfect balance between catwalk creativity and clothes with the potential to actually be worn in real life; with a wonderful take on a Victorian hoop skirt to finish the show. This is what I want from an LFW show; something fun and inventive as well as wearable clothes.

I sat with the team behind the new Young British Designers website, which champions the likes of Jena.Theo; keep an eye out on Amelia’s for an interview with them coming soon. Adriana was in fact loyally wearing an outfit by the design duo.

We were in the second row but got bumped forward into the front row when there were a few spaces at the last minute; which meant I managed to get a really good, close up look at the raw painted gold leaf stiletto platform shoes.

It also of course, meant goody bag ahoy!Ironically, for a fashion gift, this included one of the best brownies I’ve ever eaten; in fact many of the stalls in the LFW exhibitions have sweets or cakes on their stands, though you never see anyone eating them. Except me.Which is why you won’t see me bearing my gilded navel in an Aladdin-esque ensemble anytime soon.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Opposite me on the front row the great and the good of sustainable fashion gathered for the opening show at the Freemasons’ Hall: Nicola Woods of Beautiful Soul, ambulance Safia Minney of People Tree, viagra order Joe Oliver of Bash. It could only be Prophetik.

Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Prophetik by Chris Morris
Prophetik by Chris Morris.

Last season it was a rock ‘n’ roll band, sickness this time we got pure bluegrass from the Hogslops of Leipers Fork, Tennessee.
Prophetik-by suzie winsor hogslops
The Hogslops by Suzie Winsor.

A hooded girl stood bathed in the glow of the spotlight, gazing demurely into the distance as a series of models took to the grassy turf of the catwalk in a collection of beautiful dip dyed gowns and bloomers made from sustainable fabrics. All were dyed with natural plant and earth based dyes made from the likes of indigo, madder root, marigold and cochineal. The men followed in sweet little waistcoats decorated with antique buttons, ruffled shirts and jaunty neckerchiefs.

Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

This was a far more coherent collection than last season’s, and I liked it very much this time around. You’ve got to admire Jeff Garner‘s dedication to sustainability – which undoubtedly goes above and beyond the average fashion designer… but I still feel somewhat uncomfortable that this is all we have in terms of a radical rethinking of fashion. Once again we were given copious gifts; a glass bangle made from a bottle by Smart Glass (love their chandeliers!), some products by Burt’s Bees, seeds, hand balm from Pat&Rub (quite happy about all that), and an Envirosax bag “Encourage impulse purchases by placing the bags as close to the register as possible.” Much as I love them my house is going under in a sea of fabric bags right now – how many more do we need before they themselves become a problem?

Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Prophetik by Chris Morris
Prophetik by Chris Morris.

We were also given an iphone case made in association with Griffin, admirably made by artisans in Jeff’s native Tennessee, but from “reclaimed leather, taken as byproduct from existing manufacturing processes and upcycled for use in the case.” Really?? And how is a lifestyle that gleefully spans two continents sustainable? Jeff Garner is described as “surfing from his second home in Malibu California, and horse-riding in London’s Hyde Park.”

Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

There’s a fine line between trying to create a truly sustainable world and encouraging the consumption of “ecojunk” by creating more products than we actually need. It’s a problem that I struggle with constantly as I try to bridge the worlds of fashion and sustainability. I have so many questions to ask… I really do think that a proper interview is in order soon. Are you up for it Jeff?

Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik-S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Burts Bees, ,Chris Morris, ,Ecofashion, ,Ecojunk, ,Envirosax, ,Jeff Garner, ,Pat&Rub, ,Prophetik, ,Smart Glass, ,Suzie Winsor, ,Tennessee, ,The Hogslops

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