Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Press Day

I don’t normally relate to Ronit Zilka that much, but she had some very cute little tie-waisted dresses and a lively little 70s bird-meets- japonoiserie print. Clarks Originals gets better every season. Accompanied by a very quirky catalogue where the shoes are related to a variety of very English food fare, I particularly liked the embroidered patchwork wedges. For men, there is a very dashing pair of gingham brogues.

Fred Perry are also going great guns with all their different collaborative projects. The main collection gets stronger with each passing season too. Even a simple tennis dress is elevated to new heights in the simplicity of its blackness, and men’s tops with reversed seaming and different coloured stripes on each arm are a beautiful reworking of the classic for the boys. Their shoe range has grown astronomically and the women’s pumps in particular are absolutely adorable – coming in a range of sweetie colours in lots of sweet patterns too. Apparently Paul Weller’s classic limited edition polos are eliciting a ridiculous amount of interest online and are set to be issued in a whole range of colourways. Comme have done some wonderful great big rough prints in spots and stripes. With Peter Jensen they have done a small but perfectly formed capsule collection of pieces in yellow, red and forest green, with lovely little bows and ties at the neck. But it is Jessica Ogden’s collection which is the star of the show. She has produced the most adorable range of clothing in her own inimitable style and muted colour range. Low v-neck quilted cardis sit alongside flared reworkings of the polo shirt staple, and even her hand tie-dyed pumps look set to join the clothes in the shops, such was their popularity on the shoot.

Puma have also got in on the act with cute suede shoes, and some peculiarly shaped affairs by Alexander McQueen. But quite the best thing that they have to offer for next season is some glorious gold hi-tops from their collaboration with Mihara (who sadly is no longer working on a clothes range for them.) They are big and lairy, and did I say they were GOLD – just how I like ‘em.

Lacoste is also getting in on the really cute bright look. Their belts are covered in mini crocs and rainbow stripes, and they have taken the 80s to heart with wristbands and hair bands in bulky quilted cyan and magenta shades.

Paul & Joe do wonderful things with menswear all the time – forerunners of the current peacocks, they have been doing great prints on shirts since, well, forever. I love their packaging on their make-up range too. There was also a nutty cape-cum-dress for the more eccentric ladies – could well be worn around the house if you were going through a particularly demented phase, and would surely scare the neighbours a treat.

Diesel have got some lovely shapes for next season – in what I think is the strongest collection I have seen from them too – they seem to be gaining more and more of their own identity. Sci-fi inspired big shoulders and cinched waists are rendered in creams and denims and work well with Diesel’s signature love of zips on all things. I loved the barrel bag as well – all curvy, seductive-shaped redness.

Paul Smith have a new accessories designer and it shows. Their bag collection is much better now – check out these wonderful heart- shaped studded bags. Loving the flower print pumps too.

55 DSL are repositioning themselves in the light of Diesel’s bid for a more high range positioning in the fashion world. 55DSL’s subterranean themed collection features some very cute prints – swirling lines and splattered splodges reminiscent of waving seaweed – camo for underwater divers. They have done a wonderful hoodie jacket with a comic-novel inspired print that falls under the hood – this is an item that could be worn and worn but would still look original and wonderful. Womenswear is also as cute as hell – lots more madras style checks and vaguely nautical colour schemes of blues, whites and reds.

J. Lindeberg are also in the process of repositioning – they are now fully located in their London offices, despite being originally fully from Scandinavia. Stand out in their JL range was this lovely white cardigan for men – slightly at odds with the more sportswear feel of the range, it wouldn’t look out of place at a horsey outdoor function – until someone spills their wine on you, that is! Their mainline range is full of lovely little wearable shapes in greys, creams and aubergines.

Antoni & Alison are also getting better and better with their prints – lots of bugs here, on clothing and bags wasps feature – unlike with new Russian label Emperor Moth which is covered with mosquitoes and ants.

Emperor Moth is my new favourite thing! I have no idea where this label comes from, but judging by the gold edged brochure featuring Devon Aoki, and by their website that features Kate Moss, there is some money behind this particular venture. And I LOVE IT! Wowser – I was in heaven. Think sequinned sharks and velour foiled mosquitoes scrambling over leggings, high-ruche-necked zipped cardis. Think jumpsuits and batwings, neon and pastel candy stripes. Ohmigod, it is my new favourite thing – I just hope the backers aren’t the Russian mafia. But I can’t quite imagine the new jetset wearing this – it would look more at home on a member of the wowow crew, so goodness knows who Emperor Moth’s target market is! Me? In an alternate universe where I actually have money and am uber slim…

Tarina Tarantino is fairly new to the UK. She makes jewellery for the rich and famous in LA, and it is certainly individual. Little pussycat vignettes nestle amongst Swarovski crystals and chunky beadings – it’s daring enough to make you stand out in the crowd without being dangerously unique.

Manish Arora specialises in bright embroidered shapes – rainbow appliquéd swing skirts and tulip shaped sunset silhouette dresses. Bonkers, and probably not that wearable, but nonetheless great.

Kind is from Amsterdam and they do cute quirky images on cashmere and t-shirts. Check out the mouse with cheese and the cat’s eye – abstract, but a story too!

Caterina Zangrando has worked with the Powerpuff girls on her Perspex collection – kitsch, young and all great fun.

Which is what it should all be about, really. Fun, young, bright and brilliant prints, styles and shapes. Bring it on.

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