Amelia’s Magazine | SANKUANZ presented by GQ China: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Sankuanz-SS-2015 by Gareth A Hopkins
SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Gareth A Hopkins

After two seasons representing Kay Kwok, GQ China switch their attentions to Xiamen-based designer Shangguan Zhe, better known as SANKUANZ. As is often the case, I knew nothing about this up-and-coming label, but a debut London Collections: Men showcase is probably a good place to start.


SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Chris Sav

A combination of an exodus to Milan and a debut catwalk show meant that inside Victoria House wasn’t exactly heaving. Staff rushed to seat everybody as near to the front as possible, so I took a spot on the front row despite having a standing ticket.





All photography by Matt Bramford

The first dozen or so looks were strong, but I felt like I’d seen it before. Long white lab coats had been embellished with embroidered black designs, inspired by Russian prison tattoos, ranging from obscure slogans to graphic phalluses. These coats were a fusion between 18th century frock coats and modern day sportswear. Translucent crew neck tops, crisp shirts and mesh hoodies, all in white, were styled underneath, flashing mouthpieces were used and Raf Simons-esque futuristic footwear completed the looks. Some pretty silly brightly-coloured fur shorts were the only break from white.






During a short pause afterwards I thought, ‘yes, I quite like it, some wearable pieces, a bit small as a collection perhaps’ and some other nonsense. Then, almost from nowhere, a model appeared wearing what I can only describe as a giant pair of brightly coloured papier-mâché claw hands. ‘Oh, here we go’ I thought to myself as I frantically tried to take pictures and pick my jaw up from the floor.






Without visual aids I couldn’t tell you a single item of clothing that the models were wearing during this ‘latter stage’ of the show, but I could remember enormous polka-dot lobster claws, Popeye-like forearms and gigantic acid-painted hands making an ‘OK’ sign. It was like a ludicrous tribute to Emoji and I enjoyed every bloody minute.





Looking back on the collection, these gimmicks were paired with some pretty decent garments. Black sweatshirts made more of the Russian criminal emblems and the frock coat in black was less lab-coat and more wearable, but that isn’t what I’ll remember this collection for.



Categories ,catwalk, ,Chris Sav, ,fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,GQ China, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Popeye, ,Raf Simons, ,review, ,SANKUANZ, ,Shangguan Zhe, ,SS15, ,Style, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Happy Birthday Dr. Martens

Happy Birthday to you
Happy Birthday to you
Happy Biiiiiirthday Dr. Martens
Happy Birthday to you!

Today iconic footwear brand Dr. Martens celebrates its 50th birthday! From humble beginnings in Germany to global fashion brand, rx Dr. Martens’ history is an illustrious one.

Originally developed as a replacement for World War II footwear which was deemed uncomfortable and restrictive, this the Dr. Martens boot was developed by its loving creator, cialis 40mg Klaus Märtens, in to what we know and love today. A pioneer of recycled materials, long before today’s eco-friendly brands, Märtens used discarded rubber from Luftwaffe airfields to produce the boots.

Like David Hasselhoff, Dr. Martens boots were originally a hit with German housewives, and it was only in 1960 when the footwear brand was launched internationally that they became a fashion statement.

There’s no other such iconic footwear that so instantly represents so many subcultures; skinheads, punks, emos and grungers all claim them as their emblem, and now the East End gliterrati are pumping them back into fashion – albeit in this season’s colours.

Most recently the brand ventured into designer collaborations, with Raf Simons notoriously treading dangerously by changing the Dr. Marten’s staple yellow stitching to red. The result, however, teamed with patent leather, was a real winner.

To celebrate their birthday Dr. Marten’s flagship store in Covent Garden is selling it’s most famous 1460 boot (so called because it was first produced 50 years ago, on 1st of April 1960) for only £14.60. Yeah, that’s right. So head down there today and buy yourself a piece of history.

Categories ,1460, ,Agyness Deyn, ,Boots, ,Dr. Martens, ,East End, ,Grungers, ,Happy Birthday, ,Punks, ,Raf Simons, ,shoes, ,Skinheads

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