Amelia’s Magazine | Bobby Abley, MAN: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review


Bobby Abley A/W 2014 by Krister Selin

Ethereal Mickey Mouse lyrics played as it was time to welcome latest L’Enfant Terrible to the MAN stage: Bobby Abley. The crashing and banging of M.I.A.‘s equally terrifying Meds and Feds from album // / Y / (that’s harder to type than it looks) soon interrupted Mickey as his first model appeared…


All photography by Matt Bramford

First up: an oversized white jacket, synched at the waist, with the designer’s name printed down the sleeves. I could tell there was something going on with this guy’s mouth, but it wasn’t until the model walked to our side of the room that I clocked the metal mouthpieces, forcing open the mouth in a sinister, dominant fashion as he gripped a trademark Bobby Abley bear.

This was quickly followed by a whole load of visual treats, as much a delight as they were disturbing. Pink baseball caps featured Mickey Mouse ears, XXL tops carried slogans such as ‘Abley Ever After’ ‘R.I.P.’ and ‘Dream On’ in the Disney font and would probably have Walt spinning in his grave. A pink brain motif was used to great effect on trousers and rucksacks and had the tabloids asking ‘Is this what your boyfriend will be wearing’ in the way they know best. Grotesque cartoon crows and a barbed wire motif adorned t-shirts; knuckle dusters completed the looks.

Take away the Piers Atkinson Disney villain millinery and the gothic grills and what you’re left with is a pretty amazing collection of wearable pieces that it would be foolish to mock. His comic and cartoon influences might not be to every man’s taste, but his sportswear aesthetic and innovative and varied approach to materials (jersey, faux fur, translucent sheers) will satisfy a wide range of fashion dressers.

Categories ,AW14, ,Bobby Abley, ,Disney, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Krister Selin, ,LCMAW2014, ,M.I.A, ,Man, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Mickey Mouse, ,piers atkinson

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Confessions of a Vegetarian

‘So why are you vegetarian?’ I seem to have been asked this question a lot in the last two months since I stopped eating meat. It makes for quite entertaining pub chat as everyone is vehement in the expression of their beliefs. The aspect I find fascinating is the high levels of animosity that are present in these discussions. It appears to me that the average meat eater is a lot more militant than the average vegetarian. I’m not entirely sure why it is though I have a couple of guesses. It might be that it genuinely seems ridiculous to them, order they’ve never thought about it much or the reasons I give just don’t register on their world view. The view I’m more inclined towards is that my decision to become a vegetarian feels threatening. By not eating meat it is as if I’m making a moral judgment on those that do.

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All illustrations by Kaye Blegvad

I would like to begin by saying I’m not a militant vegetarian. I might sound like one if people ask my reasons, sildenafil but I don’t try and impose it on people, dosage but it’s nice to be able to justify your reasons, whether to others or just to yourself.

First I’ll rule out the reasons that weren’t factors for me: the possible financial benefit had little influence on my decision, and it has nothing to do with not liking the taste of meat, as, unfortunately I really, really do (to the point that at first I had recurring dreams where I was guiltily biting into a chicken drumstick or lamb chop). Instead my motivations to stop eating meat rest on more ethical (to use that wonderfully vague word) foundations.

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One of the main reasons that motivated me to become vegetarian is the environmental impact of the meat and livestock industry. The statistics of the livestock industry, they are quite staggering. A UN report released in 2006 entitled ‘Livestock’s Long Shadow: Environmental Issues and Options’ stated that ‘the livestock sector emerges as one of the top two or three most significant contributors to the most serious environmental problems, at every scale from local to global’.
The livestock sector is responsible for 18% of green house gases, which is greater than the amount caused from transport. It is also accounts for 8% of global human water use and is suspected to be the largest source of water pollution. It is estimated to take 100,000 litres of water to produce 1kg of beef. As it stands livestock production (including feedcrop production) accounts for 30% of the land surface of the planet, and 70% of all agricultural land. The expansion of livestock production is accountable for a large amount of deforrestation. It is projected that global production of meat will continue to rise rapidly, with estimates that it will double by 2050. It seems clear that the livestock industry as it stands is both highly damaging to the environment and not sustainable.
These are just basic figures, to see far more and a wider range of the impacts I recommend doing additional reading, including looking at the report. But nonetheless these seem to provide a strong incentive, provided one sees sustainability and climate change as problems, to at the very least reduce ones meat consuption. Knowing this led me to have a nagging, guilt-ridden feeling every time I ate meat.

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I suppose that nagging feeling is perhaps the real reason I’ve become a vegetarian. As I’ve become older, increasingly things are less black and white and morality and ethics becomes a blur. I’ve retained that ‘catholic guilt’ from my upbringing that means I tend to feel guilty about ridiculous things, often beyond my control. There are problems all around us from climate change to discrimination, from sweat shops to war. It can be all too easy to give up and admit defeat. By no means am I an exception to this. I still get flights to go on holiday despite knowing the environmental impact. I don’t check that every item of clothing I wear has been ethically sourced. These things nag at me, and I repeatedly fail to do anything about it. Similarly the thought of not eating meat dragged at me, wearing me down, sucking the fun out of eating meat, even if on another level I enjoyed the taste. It feels like by giving up meat I’ve taken an active decision, and one that I can manage. It feels empowering and though it might not last forever, and although I still have a leather wallet and belt, it gives me something to feel good about even if it’s only a small thing. It’s a beginning.

Categories ,Climate Change, ,confessions, ,Ethics, ,green house gasses, ,meat, ,meat industry, ,turning weggie, ,UN, ,veg, ,vegetarian

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Amelia’s Magazine | Spotlight: Jasiminne Yip

All images courtesy of Jasiminne Yip

Born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, more about Malaysia and sprung out of  Central Saint Martins over here, hospital illustrator Jasminne Yip is my find du jour. Her work has been featured in Selfridges and her controversial subject areas reference her social commentary on the subjects at hand.

‘Beneath The Veil’ seeks to reeducate the viewer about Western understandings of Islamic sexuality. According to Yip, site her work expresses the sensuality and openness of Islamic sexuality before the fundamentalist aspect of the religion shaped many of our preconceptions about Islam. With a graphic style that is reminiscent of a graphic novel, Yip launches bravely into the subject area with a candid, insightful and feminine perspective that has been lacking in contemporary art practice.

In her other work, the backbone of sexuality, social commentary and wit is a constant theme. She explores society, and sometimes herself with an open bravery. No subject seems to be off limits, and no area is unexplored. Her photography project ‘Day, Noon and Night’ explores the cultural and identity shift that she experienced as ‘a wide-eyed ingénue fresh-off-the boat to the gutter-whore of Shoreditch’

Following along with the narrative of self examination pertaining to sexuality ‘MEAT’ is conceived as a summer of ‘trophy fucks’, a post feminist introspective on using men for pleasure based only on their looks, then documenting the experiences into illustrations.

What I like most about Jasminne Yip is her openness and her questioning of her environment about her. There is a real bravery to her work that is uncommon, and quite special.

Her website is located here.

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,jasiminne yip, ,meat, ,religion, ,sexuality

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