McQueen – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Pre LFW interview: Jacob Kimmie

The first designer tipped for great things later this week is Louise Goldin, stuff drugs who last month was named as the winner of the illustrious Fashion Forward sponsorship scheme. Renowned for her innovative knitwear designs including; short figure enhancing knitted dresses, pharm separates and swimwear, shop Louise often incorporates both unusual weaving techniques and futuristic patterns earning her the epithet ‘Queen of Knits’.

Whilst busily producing designs for her eponymous label Louise also finds to work on her esteemed collections for Topshop, with this spring seeing her debut a capsule footwear range of studded court shoes set to put the fierce back into fashion week.
Louise Goldin is showing at LFW at 3:15pm on Sunday 21st Feb in the Topshop space.

Bryce Aime

One of my favourite designers of recent seasons has to be Bryce Aime, who launched his self named label back in 2006. A designer who understands the difference between conceptual and commercial design, Bryce’s unique combination offers his customers sexy and understated garments with a twist of edgy and dramatic tailoring.

Bryce’s current SS10 collection channels 50’s Parisian Chic, combining his classic tailoring techniques with futuristic body con structures to great effect.
Bryce Aime is showing at LFW at 11:30am on Saturday 20th Feb as part of On|Off.

Georgia Hardinge

Another great designer looking to make her stamp on the British fashion industry next season is that of Georgia Hardinge. Best known for her figure enhancing dresses, each garment is specifically designed to ‘map the silhouette and curves of the female line’.
With a penchant for avant-garde tailoring Georgia produces highly controlled yet progressive pieces which successfully juxtapose the futurism of sculptural design with femininity, empowering the her legion of customers without being overtly sexual.

Belle Sauvage

A relatively new label, having emerged on the scene in 2008, Belle Sauvage is the brainchild of design duo Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman. Best known for their eye-popping digital prints and electric use of colour, this is one brand who look set to achieve the unachievable, having the fashion world eating out of the palm of their hands.

Fresh for SS10 the enigmatic duo have sampled block colouring in shocking scarlet and electric blues creating a contrast to the clashing primary hues of the geometric graphic prints and trademark lipstick detailing visible throughout. With a subtle nod to futurism referenced throughout the collection you’ll see conical shaped breasts, origami-inspired directional cuts across the hips and the occasional boxy shoulder.
Belle Sauvage is showing at LFW at 5:00pm on Saturday 20th Feb as part of On|Off.

Gemma Slack

The last designer I’m tipping for greatness at LFW is the one and only Gemma Slack. Having graduated last year, SS10 sees Gemma’s second post-graduate collection inspired by fetishised super heroines and metal girls. Never one to toe-the-line with conventional designs this season sees Gemma experimenting with leather, suede, aluminium and steel to produce a highly unique and futuristic collection.

The first designer tipped for great things later this week is Louise Goldin, ampoule who last month was named as the winner of the illustrious Fashion Forward sponsorship scheme. Renowned for her innovative knitwear designs including; short figure enhancing knitted dresses, separates and swimwear, Louise often incorporates both unusual weaving techniques and futuristic patterns earning her the epithet ‘Queen of Knits’.

The first designer tipped for great things later this week is Louise Goldin, visit who last month was named as the winner of the illustrious Fashion Forward sponsorship scheme. Renowned for her innovative knitwear designs including; short figure enhancing knitted dresses, more about separates and swimwear, erectile Louise often incorporates both unusual weaving techniques and futuristic patterns earning her the epithet ‘Queen of Knits’.

The first designer tipped for great things later this week is Louise Goldin, decease who last month was named as the winner of the illustrious Fashion Forward sponsorship scheme. Renowned for her innovative knitwear designs including; short figure enhancing knitted dresses, separates and swimwear, Louise often incorporates both unusual weaving techniques and futuristic patterns earning her the epithet ‘Queen of Knits’.

Looking to empower women across the nation, Gemma’s collections tend to be bold, brash and above all strong. By using biomechanics to combine body and science, Gemma successfully replicates the ideology of transformation through costume.
Gemma Slack is showcasing a presentation at LFW between 5-8pm on Friday 19th Feb.
I recently came across your designs for the first time at the Felicities press day and was amazed that your SS10 collection, treat ‘La Ville Sauvage’ was themed entirely around orchids. What made you choose this flower as your inspiration?
The “prettiness” of my clothes is a fervent revolt against mainstream ideology, doctor especially when so much in fashion looks same. I recently read Vivienne Westwood’s biography and was particularly taken by the idea that she champions “an outsider” in her work- the hooker, what is ed the dandy, and so on. It struck me how mainstream and boring these archetypes that she, and many others still – like McQueen and Galiano – often use to challenge and revolt the conservative mainstream elite. Unlike anywhere else, British fashion is foremost about being radical. As a foreigner with colonialist roots to Britain, Indonesia, Holland and Cape Malay slaves, it dawned on me that many of the themes that I toy with are about the new challenges to a conservative British society in retreat: globalisation and the encompassing neo-imperialist ideas of “being foreign, the exotic, and the savage”. The orchid is a metaphor for the exotic “otherliness” of my muse; both the contempt and perverted desire for the “savage”. Or, maybe I was just a little curious to see what an exotic English summer landscape would look like.

Imagery throughout courtesy of Jacob Kimmie

I read the biography on your website which states that you haven’t had any official fashion training, which is quite remarkable. When did you realise that you already possessed the skills (that others spend a lot of time and money learning) to produce such breathtakingly feminine collections?
I can’t remember the first time I picked up a needle and thread! I grew up in the townships of South Africa during its apartheid hey-day when we used to toyi-toyi (the protest dance you used to see in SA) in the streets to protest against the fascist establishment. It was during this time that, as a child, I used to make clothes for my cousin’s dolls (underneath the table) with the off-cut fabric while my aunts were making dresses for bridesmaids and dancers! They used to work in dress factories and would later buy fabric remnants to re-create the dresses to go dancing in. I guess my love for a type of narrative and decorative mood in fashion developed then alongside a desire to create clothes that celebrates femininity, a hyper-femininity against all odds maybe. You can’t really achieve that without knowing how to fit a dress on somebody, that instinctive way you handle fabric at your finger tips. I can’t design clothes from a self-expression point of view. It’s so self indulgent and boring in context of moving fashion forward! I used to be embarrassed that I didn’t go to university (I couldn’t afford to) to develop the “vocabulary” that seems to be the most important thing in fashion today. I sometimes wonder what I would have been like if I did…
A master’s degree in fashion means nothing to me. If you can make a dress you can eat. Why are so many fashion graduates not in work?

How did you break into the fashion industry, and do you have any advice for our readers on things they can do to stand out in the industry?
I don’t believe that you can break into fashion in that way. Yet so much of it does. You don’t suddenly realise one morning that you want to be dress maker or tailor, let alone a designer. My look comes across as that of a very established designer. There seems to be this thing in British fashion that when you start, you’ve got to be all angles, tucks and pleats. And hang out with cool fashion people at cool fashion places waiting to be discovered and be included on style.com to be seen as successful. I think this is because I know what my vision is, and what I’m trying to achieve together with a team who “gets” it. Having PR who believes in you is critical. I grew up in SA where you don’t get breaks. You have to work to achieve, let alone have a voice. Having a voice in fashion is pure indulgence. To be asked questions like these are a privilege. I have the good fortune being able to show off-schedule, which I love, because it’s smaller and edgier. I don’t believe in working hard. Work smart! Don’t for once believe that a degree gives you the tools to cut it. Doing fashion without skills is like looking for an extraordinary treasure without a map.

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show/presentation?
My studio is notorious for not having any pictures or mood boards up for collections which might seem bizarre for some considering that what I do is almost storybook like. My collections start with a mood, and I always seem to search for that in music. For FW10 I came across a funky remix of “It’s Yours”. It made me think of temples and religion! So I guess I’m going spiritual this season (smiles). I’m also collaborating with Ginta Siceva, a brilliant leather artist who’s designing breath taking accessories for the show and Aspinals Of London who supplies us with awesome leather gloves. And my good mate Steve Martland, the ultra-left wing radical classical composer might be adjusting a score… watch this space!

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
Unwind? What’s that?!

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?
My mum flying in the day before my show and seeing my work on an international platform for the first time is my career highlight. In fashion, until you really crack it, it’s not always easy sailing. And even though some things can be overcome by throwing money, time and energy at it, nothing beats the feeling – the soaring delight – of approval from where it really counts. Oh, and seeing Alek Wek in my bullet dress, and then Kaya Scodelario in it and then Ellie Goulding wearing the magenta dress from the orchid collection in Just Jack and…

Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
Besides that I’d really like to tie Sarah Mower by the pussy-bow tails of her blouse to Colin McDowell’s trouser belt loops, I’d like to address your question regarding unwinding after the stresses of fashion week.

Written by Rachael Oku on Friday February 19th, 2010 9:15 am

Categories ,’La Ville Sauvage’, ,Alek Wek, ,Aspinals Of London, ,Ellie Goulding, ,Felicities Designer Showroom, ,Galiano, ,Ginta Siceva, ,Just Jack, ,Kaya Scodelario, ,lfw, ,McQueen, ,Pre LFW interview: Jacob Kimmie, ,Sarah Mower, ,Steve Martland

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Preview: Ada Zanditon

Susan Hiller-Tate-Britain
AmeliasMagazine_LFW_Ada-Zanditon_ArtistAndrea
Ada Zanditon A/W 2011 sneak preview by Andrea Peterson. I asked a variety of illustrators to interpret one piece from the new collection… so read on to see what they did!

Ada Zanditon looks somewhat confused as I pile into her live/workspace at the same time as the morning influx of interns – maybe I’m a new, about it rather overgrown one? She is still in her pyjamas, recipe having recently emerged from the space beneath a cutting table that currently serves as her bed.

This season Ada will not be putting on a catwalk show; instead she will show a film presentation alongside the collection on mannequins. “What you can do on a catwalk is dictated by how big your budget is, ailment ” she explains. “Lagerfield puts on amazing shows but the cost of production is huge. One reason why everyone loved McQueen was because he put on an event; a moment that could be referenced from then on.” Ada feels that a film or presentation can offer a much more immersive experience on a tight budget.

Ada Zanditon LFW Preview by Danielle Shepherd
Ada Zanditon A/W 2011 LFW Preview by Danielle Shepherd.

Last season’s show at Victoria House was intended to be interactive, with people circulating around the models. In fact it became more like a salon show as soon as the pesky photographers formed a bank across the room that guests were afraid to cross. “But the fact that it wasn’t a normal catwalk set was exciting – now it’s time to go to the next stage.” This season movement will be shown on a screen and the audience will be able to feel the details up close without fear of interaction with any live humans. “I’ve learnt that people won’t walk up to a model when they are in full hair and make up because it is too daunting.”

The night before our interview Ada was filming the A/W 2011 presentation at Netil House just off Broadway Market. On the wall above the table where the interns are busy cutting out invitations there is a model – I correctly deduce that Georgiana from Bulgaria is in fact the star of her new film. “It’s much better to fit a narrative around one person,” she says. Ada was able to exactly fit the garments to Georgiana, chosen because of an active interest in her concept and aesthetic. “She also has ability to act and move elegantly and gracefully. I feel she embodies the aspirations of my customers.”

Ada-Zanditon-AW11-by-Yelena-Bryksenkova
Ada Zanditon A/W 2011 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Ada’s great grandparents were from Ukraine and Lithuania, but her mother was born and grew up in America, with the result that Ada has dual nationality and got to spend holidays in fashionable Martha’s Vineyard, where her parents bought a house before it became popular. “Of course now it’s full of rich yuppies… which in a way is good because they look after the beautiful landscape.” Ada herself was born in Crouch End in north London before the family moved south of the river. Secondary school was by all accounts not a fun experience – even though she knew she wanted to be a fashion designer from the age of 5 her school pushed her in an academic direction that she felt uneasy with. As a result she didn’t do art A-level but instead took photography GCSE and attended life drawing classes.

With the encouragement of an art teacher who spotted her potential she went to Morley College to produce a self generated portfolio which she took to her Art Foundation interview at Kingston University. She was promptly offered an unconditional offer. “They were so warm and impressed that I cried in the interview – I was just so happy that someone finally understood my work.” Afterwards she did a degree at London College of Fashion and then embarked an internship with McQueen where she learnt “a hell of a lot”. She was there for a total of four seasons, working almost all of the time. “It’s a tough industry – you can work 9-5 and achieve something mediocre or you can put 100% in and achieve something beautiful.”

Ada Zanditon A/W 2011 by Dee Andrews.

The new A/W 2011 collection is called The Cryoflux, embodying in its name frozen landscapes and the idea of change. It was inspired by the polar regions, mainly Antarctica, but also the climatic changes experienced by people living in the Arctic. Ada became fascinated by the ice cores that are pulled up to show our climate history in intimate detail, and extremophiles, mostly microscopic organisms which exist in extreme conditions such as the polar regions. “But I didn’t want to be too literal in my translation – after all we’re experiencing extreme conditions both politically and economically as well.”

For further inspiration she looked at the doomed Robert Scott expedition of the early 1900s, for which the explorers were clothed in heritage clothing from great British brands like Mulberry. “I combined the romantic world of beautiful tailoring with an icy modern aesthetic. For instance I looked at broken ice floes in a constant state of flux.”

Ada Zanditon in her studio in Whitechapel.

I wonder if Ada will model a bit of clothing from the collection so that I can get it illustrated but she baulks at the suggestion because she doesn’t design for herself. “I’m quite scruffy… but my designs always come out elegant and polished,” she says. “I want to create wearable stuff for my customer and not myself because I am quite a specific market of one.” Her collections are instead inspired by an interest in architectural design and illustration. She likens it to the work of Monet. “He doesn’t look like a waterlily. And lots of male designers don’t wear the frocks that they design.” As part of the designing process she loves meeting and learning more about her customers although she’s eager to assure me she’s not a slave to them, and concepts will always be important.

Ada Zanditon by Donya Todd
Ada Zanditon in her studio by Donya Todd, who chose to put her in one of her S/S 2011 designs anyway.

The collection features lots of British wool but the silk is not organic because it is much harder to source than good quality organic fair-trade cotton. “Most silk is Chinese even though it often claims to be Indian. I’ve looked into using Peace Silk [which doesn’t kill the silk worms in the process of manufacture] but the trouble is that you only get a smooth continuous unbroken fibre if the worm is killed. My customers want quality and I don’t want to compromise that.” At present Ada feels it is more important to focus on the bigger picture when it comes to sustainability.

There are only a few print designs in the new collection, which were printed locally in Bermondsey. “I feel that winter is usually more about sculptural details, so I tend to explore the cut. Print tends to be for S/S. But you can get sick of tailoring!” Ada can’t imagine living somewhere where the climate doesn’t change on a regular basis and she is looking forward to designing for the next S/S season: think big and loose, “like a million layers of air”.

Ada-Zanditon-S/S 2011 by-Maria-del-Carmen-Smith
Ada Zanditon S/S 2011 by Maria del Carmen Smith.

This season Ada had her choice of slot at LFW, so naturally she chose to show on the first day. The main theme of her presentation remains firmly under wraps but expect a narrative inspired by the solar system and in particular by Europa, which is a moon of Jupiter that experiences particularly extreme conditions. “I like the outside perspective; seeing things from the viewpoint of the other. So I imagined a superwoman extremophile who evolved under the surface of Europa and goes on an exploration of Antarctica.” The film is directed by twins Andrew and William Ho, who had lots of passion and enthusiasm for her subject. “I love their elegant aesthetic.” As well as an “interesting” soundtrack guests can expect a surprise immediately as they enter the venue between 1-2pm on Friday 18th February. I can’t wait… and I shall report back on my findings.

Ada Zanditon features in my new book: Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. Part two of this interview will go online tomorrow and digs deeper into Ada’s theories on sustainable practice.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 16th, 2011 11:50 am

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,ACOFI, ,Ada Zanditon, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Andrew and William Ho, ,Antarctica, ,British Wool, ,Broadway Market, ,Bulgaria, ,Danielle Shepherd, ,Dee Andrews, ,Donya Todd, ,Europa, ,extremophile, ,Georgiana, ,Ice Core, ,Jupiter, ,Kingston University, ,Lagerfield, ,lfw, ,Lithuania, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,McQueen, ,Morley College, ,Mulberry, ,Netil House, ,peace silk, ,Robert Scott, ,The Cryoflux, ,Ukraine, ,Victoria House, ,whitechapel, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Northumbria

I always look forward to the Northumbria University BA fashion degree show for two reasons. One, price because it’s always effing good – the innovation, salve technique and creativity on display is second to pretty much nobody at Graduate Fashion Week. Secondly, I studied at the university, so this review might seem like a big fat plate of bias – I assure you, though, that it isn’t.

Nestled on the front row in between Style Savage Steve and the ever wonderful Hilary Alexander (who bopped, sketched and scribbled her way through the show) I was a little concerned that my big lens (baaaooowappp) might block the view of either of these fashion journalists. Neither said anything though, so I think I got away with it…

Opening the show with an explosion of glam-rock-meets-Elvis-meets-Lady-Gaga, Naomi New presented a very polished micro-collection featuring exaggerated shoulders of leather, spikes and studs, and horse-hair tails. Models strutted back and forth with real sex appeal and the quality of Naomi’s craftsmanship looked, from what I could see, incredible.

The key theme in this year’s show was digital prints, and it’s a testament to the late, great Alexander McQueen’s legacy that this is such a mainstay on graduate catwalks. Faye Chamberlain’s was the most striking of collections, owing to its wild neon prints reminiscent of MIA’s Kala album cover, and blingy embellishment. Short, short dresses with spikey hips challenged the traditional constraints of the female form.

Further print patrons included the work of Sophie Dee and Ludmila Maida. Sophie Dee presented a feminine, playful collection of vibrant prints, micro shorts and bubble skirts, accessorised with childlike objects such as candy floss and helium balloons, harping back to the glory days of the seaside. Ludmila Maida’s collection was a slightly more mature one, with elegant maxi dresses in neon, gathered into sections to create flattering asymmetrical shapes.

Gemma Williamson also hopped on the print train, with her slightly eery collection making use of religious iconography.

Illustration by Gemma Williamson from her graduate work

Menswear was, as always, well represented; one of the few menswear graduates to win the prestigious Gold Award in recent years was a Northumbria student. Sara Wilson set the standard with a mixture of soft tailoring and Japanese influence – loose fitting blazers were teamed with skinny trousers and shorts, while snood-like pieces of material attempted to cover the face, giving each outfit a martial-art feel.

Louise Dickinson’s inspired outfits seemed to draw influence from historical Britain and tradition in general. An oversized Barbour-style jacket here and a triangular-shaped cape printed with a vintage map there made for a intriguing and genuinely unique collection.

But it was Caroline Rowland’s eccentric tailoring that captured my imagination the most. A bit Sebastian Flyte, a bit Dries Van Noten, it was the perfect mix of traditional tailoring and quirky design flair. Ill-fitting gingham shirts (I presume on purpose) were teamed with tucked-in waistcoats and patterned bow ties, while cropped blazers looked great with high-waisted tailored trousers. You can never go wrong with a sock suspender either.

And now for a quick round of some of my favourite womesnwear collections. It’ll have to be a whistle-stop tour because I have 3 other shows to write up and I’m having my hair cut in an hour.

One of my absolute faves was Julie Perry, who combined body-concious all-in-ones with Meccano-style leather creations. These outfits had real sex appeal – not one for the supermarket but definitely for the fierce fashionista who isn’t afraid to show off. Julie’s pieces were architectural in shape and hinted at a little bit of kink.

Illustration by Julie Perry from her graduate work

Holly Farrar’s super sleek collection toyed with masculine tailoring and models had structured shoulders with outfits tapering downwards. Defined v-necklines gave the outfits an overall geometric look and were very sophisticated indeed.

Illustration by Holly Farrar from her graduate work

These gemoetric-slash-linear-slash-structured themes ran through many a collection, executed most effectively by Stephanie Price. Her futuristic collection married materials with aesthetic appeal with flattering shapes – mesh covered body-concious shift dresses had a dazzling effect, as did this dynamic jacket…

Illustrations by Stephanie Price, from her graduate work

Closing the show was Victoria Kirby, who had clearly been selected for her fresh innovation and coutourier-like craftsmanship. Elegant floor sweepers made from silk and velour had the appearance of two dresses in one, cut and merged down the middle. Exaggerating the shoulders and synching in at the waist created beautiful feminine shapes that flattered.

Illustration by Victoria Kirby, from her graduate work

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 8th, 2010 7:28 pm

Categories ,Barbour, ,Bow Ties, ,Caroline Rowland, ,Digital Prints, ,Dries Van Noten, ,Elvis, ,Faye Chamberlain, ,Gemma Williamson, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Holly Farrar, ,japanese, ,Julie Perry, ,Kala, ,Lady Gaga, ,Louise Dickinson, ,Ludmila Maida, ,McQueen, ,Meccano, ,menswear, ,MIA, ,Naomi New, ,Neon, ,Newcastle, ,Northumbria, ,print, ,Sara Wilson, ,Sebastian Flyte, ,Sophie Dee, ,Stephanie Price, ,Style Savage, ,Victoria Kirby, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: UWE Bristol and UCA Epsom

I always look forward to the Northumbria University BA fashion degree show for two reasons. One, look because it’s always effing good – the innovation, prostate technique and creativity on display is second to pretty much nobody at Graduate Fashion Week. Secondly, I studied at the university, so this review might seem like a big fat plate of bias – I assure you, though, that it isn’t.

Nestled on the front row in between Style Savage Steve and the ever wonderful Hilary Alexander (who bopped, sketched and scribbled her way through the show) I was a little concerned that my big lens (said the actress to the bishop) might block the view of either of these fashion journalists. Neither said anything though, so I think I got away with it.

I always look forward to the Northumbria University BA fashion degree show for two reasons. One, try because it’s always effing good – the innovation, sickness technique and creativity on display is second to pretty much nobody at Graduate Fashion Week. Secondly, cialis 40mg I studied at the university, so this review might seem like a big fat plate of bias – I assure you, though, that it isn’t.

Nestled on the front row in between Style Savage Steve and the ever wonderful Hilary Alexander (who bopped, sketched and scribbled her way through the show) I was a little concerned that my big lens (said the actress to the bishop) might block the view of either of these fashion journalists. Neither said anything though, so I think I got away with it.

I always look forward to the Northumbria University BA fashion degree show for two reasons. One, ask because it’s always effing good – the innovation, mind technique and creativity on display is second to pretty much nobody at Graduate Fashion Week. Secondly, visit this site I studied at the university, so this review might seem like a big fat plate of bias – I assure you, though, that it isn’t.

Nestled on the front row in between Style Savage Steve and the ever wonderful Hilary Alexander (who bopped, sketched and scribbled her way through the show) I was a little concerned that my big lens (said the actress to the bishop) might block the view of either of these fashion journalists. Neither said anything though, so I think I got away with it.

Anna Piercy, website like this UCA Epsom, advice Illustrated by Lisa Billvik

Well well well the kids certainly know what they’re doing at Graduate Fashion Week this year. Sunday kicked off day one of shows for the creatively minded at our very own Earl’s Court and believe me these are the McQueens of the future.

UWE Bristol showcased some beautiful structured puffball dresses from Georgina Kitchen teamed with knee high socks and see-through metallic partitions. Jessie Potter had a clear vision too, showing off an appliquéd felt and wool collection in a 70s pallet of mustard and burgundy with pom-pom headdresses. Jessica Hart clearly had the most funm however – showing a pastel based range of graphic prints that Lady Gaga would feel sheepish in. Necklaces were gigantic, as were pockets, in what was a playful and crisp collection, complete with bow headbands of course. (Read more about UWE Bristol’s show here – with even MORE illustrations!)

Jessica Hart, illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

I was not expecting the standard of design as seen at UCA Epsom University’s show after though. Think of Pilgrim’s, 50s housewives, teddy boys, Julia Roberts in Mona Lisa Smile and a dash of kids TV and you’re half way there. This was a serious clash of icons creating a surprisingly good statement for the University.

But amongst the host of talent there were some definite faces of the fashion future to watch, and a surprising amount of menswear. Remember you heard it here first.

Lucinda Ailes: One so patriotic, not to our fair Blighty mind, but all things American were emblazoned on everything through an array of stars and stripes. Models sported devoted shorts, leggings and maxi dresses but all was kept thoroughly wearable by grey mix-and-match pieces to wear back with the collection.

Katie Barret: A different kind of heritage was displayed in Barret’s show of menswear pieces. Thoroughly Scottish and proud of it, models sported full kilted dresses as well as the traditional skirts. The whole feel was very rugged using natural fabrics and even slightly drab colours. But each look was spiced up with a hint of tomato red, whether it be in a top or the waist detailing of said kilt instantly adding an extra something to the look.

Antonia Lloyd: Another one for the boys but this time not quite so manly. Lloyd made sure the boys sparkled in glittered tuxedo style shirts and knickerbockers to be proud of. There was something quite romantic about the look, with buttons done up to the neck and a palette of muted greys and navies.

Beata Gebka: I told you there were pilgrims and it came from Gebka’s show. Models sported traditional style long dresses accessorized with cloches and capes. As unwearable as it sounds, the pieces were surprisingly covetable, finished off with black ribbon detailing and even bib fronts. This may just be the new look come autumn and one that features heavily around the key muted pallet of greys and navies again.

Stency Kidega: Frills frills and more frills was what Kidega must have been dreaming of. They were added to the shoulders of jackets and the necklines of coats but wherever they were placed they looked beautiful. Kidega pulled off a very tailored collection, which isn’t always the most interesting, but the corset detailing on the dresses and the aforementioned jackets made sure that it was. Delicious.

Eve McDonald: McDonald definitely has a 50s housewife buried inside her otherwise she wouldn’t be able to produce such stunning floral shirts. But she’s also hiding a Teddy Boy too, as pieces were mixed with checked trousers and long shorts. Finished off with floral headscarves tied in oversized bows I almost wanted to pull on my espadrilles and listen to some good old Rock ‘n’ Roll.

Anna Piercy: It’s Piercy who brought the piece de résistance of the whole night for me. Piercey managed to create a collection based entirely around oversized letters. Seriously. Not that much to hear but the fabrics still flowed into beautiful a-line dresses with cut-out detailing. Even more intelligent was the use of panelling and sequins to create letters from the arms and body of a dress. And the finale – Piercey’s models came together to spell out the word ‘RANDOM.’ It was and yet I still liked it.

Illustrations by Lisa Billvik

How nice though that we got to see the faces behind the fashion as each designer (embarrassingly for most but certainly not all) walked the catwalk with one of their models. It was cheers and ovation all round from the crowd and do you know what…. they thoroughly deserved it.

Hear, hear!

Photographs courtesy of catwalking.com

Written by Jemma Crow on Tuesday June 8th, 2010 1:40 pm

Categories ,1950s, ,70s, ,americana, ,Anna Piercy, ,Antonia Lloyd, ,Beata Gebka, ,Earls Court, ,Eve McDonald, ,Georgina Kitchen, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Jemma Crow, ,Jessie Potter, ,Julia Roberts, ,Katie Barrett, ,Kids TV, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lisa Billvik, ,Lucinda Ailes, ,McQueen, ,menswear, ,metallics, ,Pilgrims, ,scotland, ,Stency Kidega, ,Sunday, ,Teddy Boys, ,Tuxedo, ,UCA Epsom, ,UWE Bristol, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: UWE Bristol and UCA Epsom

Nestled on the front row in between Style Savage Steve and the ever wonderful Hilary Alexander (who bopped, sketched and scribbled her way through the show) I was a little concerned that my big lens (said the actress to the bishop) might block the view of either of these fashion journalists. Neither said anything though, so I think I got away with it.

Anna Piercy, website like this UCA Epsom, advice Illustrated by Lisa Billvik

Jessica Hart, illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

But amongst the host of talent there were some definite faces of the fashion future to watch, and a surprising amount of menswear. Remember you heard it here first.

Illustrations by Lisa Billvik

Hear, hear!

Photographs courtesy of catwalking.com

Written by Jemma Crow on Tuesday June 8th, 2010 1:40 pm

Amelia’s Magazine | Pre LFW interview: Jacob Kimmie

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