Amelia’s Magazine | This Is The Kit: Wriggle Out the Restless – Album Review

ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

It’s clear the beauty industry is relentlessly changing as fast as the fashion industry, pharmacy with both mediums always being used to express the latest trends. It would then come as no surprise that while fashion has been taking an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, pill which can be seen from clothing brands such as People Tree, that the beauty industry took point and followed. From this new approach, words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become somewhat common when it comes to the latest beauty products, however what do these actually mean, and is there a difference? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??Ethical means being conscious about the recognition of individuals all over the world, and their effort and position it took to get the ingredients which are in the products you’re using. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as FairTrade and The Body Shop sourcing ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America.

This standpoint focuses on the conditions and pays those individuals who source ingredients receive, such as, recently there has been questions raised as to the conditions of workers in Katie Price’s branded perfumes, which can be considered an ethical dilemma. Also under the ethical standpoint is the adherence to not test on animals. Most beauty and skincare products do not test on animals; however consumers must always check the packaging, as this is another area of controversy.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

?Natural is another term that often gets confused with what it actually means for beauty products. Brands which use this term are Lush, The Body Shop, Naked Shampoo & Conditioners, Origins and many more. Natural generally means nature and the state in which we are to begin with, (i.e. no makeup or enhancements) however there is also the viewpoint of ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up.

?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? More viewpoints come into the fray when questions start to get asked on where that sugar was produced. Has it got more ingredients than sugar? Is that honey, 100% honey? There are two issues which have been raised here, and that is the issue of Organic sourced products, which will be discussed, and secondly, that more often than not, products are not 100% natural. The brand ‘Naked’ Shampoo & Conditioner use 97% natural products and Lush, while try to make their products 100% natural, there are still some of their products which are only partially natural; “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Lending the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

??Organic is another term that seems to be related to natural skincare. Organic skincare focuses on the sourcing and products of the ingredients, often meaning that no parabens or synthetic emollients, synthetic humectants, synthetic emulsifiers, synthetic surfactants; synthetic preservatives, artificial dyes, no colourings, flavourings or additives are included. Brands which are focusing on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. As you can see organic skincare is looking more at the ingredients on the back of a product and often overlaps into natural skincare and ingredients because of the adherence to none synthetic additions.

IMAGE ETHICAL BEAUTY 3 JENIFFER
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

http://www.jenillustration.com/

?It’s easy to get confused with these words, and what they mean, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, which kind of products should you be going for? However the decision might be easier than you think. More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, the body shop is a chain which adheres to ethical and fair trade policies, while sourcing natural ingredients in a majority of their products. Also to some degree, using products which are organic, such as the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox foundation and concealer, which boasts 98% organic and natural ingredients, is helping the planet by not using or supporting the use of chemicals which may not be so environmentally friendly, this is on the pretence that a majority of organic ingredients are bio-degradable and do not destroy the planet – which is where the name of this product can be seen to come from.
Links: – Bourjois –
This change of focus could have easily come from the ever increasing pressure of climate change and being friendlier to our environment; nevertheless capitalism could easily have been an influence on this change as well. Especially since there is pressure for using more environmentally-friendly products on consumers, making it more about profit and less about caring for the planet. As consumers, we can easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, as after all, it’s made for us, and the promise of natural ingredients often mesmerises us into thinking it will do better than all the other products we have bought. It may be assumed that this shift in market focus is trying to signal the move away from chemically enhanced products as perhaps that doesn’t sound too appealing anymore.

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The same goes for ethical sourcing of ingredients; this is a great way for other countries to get fair pay and conditions, and however this can be viewed as a way of the market to ease our conscience of buying more and more products, especially in a time of economic crisis. There has without a doubt been a significant rise in brands specialising and advertising their ethical, natural and organic sourced products, when I only remember when I was younger The Body Shop and their adherence to stop animal testing, therefore there is definitely the question to ask whether this shift in market focus was because of research into natural and organic skincare working for the environment and being less harsh on our bodies, ethical trade programs for those individuals who do pick and harvest the ingredients first, as opposed to a purposeful money making scheme.

ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

It’s clear the beauty industry is relentlessly changing as fast as the fashion industry, visit both used to express the latest trends. Fashion has taken an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, cheap best epitomised in high profile clothing brands such as People Tree, and of course the beauty industry has followed. Words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become somewhat common when it comes to the latest beauty products, but what do these actually mean, and is there a difference between them? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??

Ethical:
Ethical means being conscious of the efforts and conditions under which products are produced. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as FairTrade and The Body Shop sourcing ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America. Recently, for instance, there have been questions raised about the conditions of workers making Katie Price’s branded perfumes, presenting buyers with an ‘ethical dilemma’ once this is known. Most ethical products are not tested on animals, but for this consumers must always check the packaging.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

Natural:
?Natural is another confusing term when applied to beauty products. Brands which use this term include Lush, The Body Shop, Origins and many more. Natural can be applied to the state in which we are without intervention, i.e. no makeup or enhancements. However one may ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up. ?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? More viewpoints come into the fray when questions start to get asked on where that sugar was produced. Has it got more ingredients than sugar? Is that honey, 100% honey? There are two issues which have been raised here, and that is the issue of Organic sourced products, which will be discussed, and secondly, that more often than not, products are not 100% natural. The brand ‘Naked’ Shampoo & Conditioner use 97% natural products and Lush, while try to make their products 100% natural, there are still some of their products which are only partially natural; “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Lending the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

??Organic is another term that seems to be related to natural skincare. Organic skincare focuses on the sourcing and products of the ingredients, often meaning that no parabens or synthetic emollients, synthetic humectants, synthetic emulsifiers, synthetic surfactants; synthetic preservatives, artificial dyes, no colourings, flavourings or additives are included. Brands which are focusing on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. As you can see organic skincare is looking more at the ingredients on the back of a product and often overlaps into natural skincare and ingredients because of the adherence to none synthetic additions.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused with these words, and what they mean, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, which kind of products should you be going for? However the decision might be easier than you think. More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, the body shop is a chain which adheres to ethical and fair trade policies, while sourcing natural ingredients in a majority of their products. Also to some degree, using products which are organic, such as the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox foundation and concealer, which boasts 98% organic and natural ingredients, is helping the planet by not using or supporting the use of chemicals which may not be so environmentally friendly, this is on the pretence that a majority of organic ingredients are bio-degradable and do not destroy the planet – which is where the name of this product can be seen to come from.
Links: – Bourjois –
This change of focus could have easily come from the ever increasing pressure of climate change and being friendlier to our environment; nevertheless capitalism could easily have been an influence on this change as well. Especially since there is pressure for using more environmentally-friendly products on consumers, making it more about profit and less about caring for the planet. As consumers, we can easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, as after all, it’s made for us, and the promise of natural ingredients often mesmerises us into thinking it will do better than all the other products we have bought. It may be assumed that this shift in market focus is trying to signal the move away from chemically enhanced products as perhaps that doesn’t sound too appealing anymore.

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The same goes for ethical sourcing of ingredients; this is a great way for other countries to get fair pay and conditions, and however this can be viewed as a way of the market to ease our conscience of buying more and more products, especially in a time of economic crisis. There has without a doubt been a significant rise in brands specialising and advertising their ethical, natural and organic sourced products, when I only remember when I was younger The Body Shop and their adherence to stop animal testing, therefore there is definitely the question to ask whether this shift in market focus was because of research into natural and organic skincare working for the environment and being less harsh on our bodies, ethical trade programs for those individuals who do pick and harvest the ingredients first, as opposed to a purposeful money making scheme.
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

It’s clear the beauty industry is relentlessly changing as fast as the fashion industry, approved both used to express the latest trends. Fashion has taken an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, cure best epitomised in high profile clothing brands such as People Tree, prescription and of course the beauty industry has followed. Words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become somewhat common when it comes to the latest beauty products, but what do these actually mean, and is there a difference between them? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??

Ethical:
Ethical means being conscious about the recognition of individuals all over the world, and their effort and position it took to get the ingredients which are in the products you’re using. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as FairTrade and The Body Shop sourcing ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America. This standpoint focuses on the conditions and salaries of those individuals who manufacture the products, such as, recently there has been questions raised as to the conditions of workers in Katie Price’s branded perfumes, which can be considered an ethical dilemma. Also under the ethical standpoint is the adherence to not test on animals. Most beauty and skincare products do not test on animals; however consumers must always check the packaging, as this is another area of controversy.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

?Natural is another term that often gets confused with what it actually means for beauty products. Brands which use this term are Lush, The Body Shop, Naked Shampoo & Conditioners, Origins and many more. Natural generally means nature and the state in which we are to begin with, (i.e. no makeup or enhancements) however there is also the viewpoint of ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up.

?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? More viewpoints come into the fray when questions start to get asked on where that sugar was produced. Has it got more ingredients than sugar? Is that honey, 100% honey? There are two issues which have been raised here, and that is the issue of Organic sourced products, which will be discussed, and secondly, that more often than not, products are not 100% natural. The brand ‘Naked’ Shampoo & Conditioner use 97% natural products and Lush, while try to make their products 100% natural, there are still some of their products which are only partially natural; “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Lending the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

??Organic is another term that seems to be related to natural skincare. Organic skincare focuses on the sourcing and products of the ingredients, often meaning that no parabens or synthetic emollients, synthetic humectants, synthetic emulsifiers, synthetic surfactants; synthetic preservatives, artificial dyes, no colourings, flavourings or additives are included. Brands which are focusing on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. As you can see organic skincare is looking more at the ingredients on the back of a product and often overlaps into natural skincare and ingredients because of the adherence to none synthetic additions.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused with these words, and what they mean, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, which kind of products should you be going for? However the decision might be easier than you think. More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, the body shop is a chain which adheres to ethical and fair trade policies, while sourcing natural ingredients in a majority of their products. Also to some degree, using products which are organic, such as the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox foundation and concealer, which boasts 98% organic and natural ingredients, is helping the planet by not using or supporting the use of chemicals which may not be so environmentally friendly, this is on the pretence that a majority of organic ingredients are bio-degradable and do not destroy the planet – which is where the name of this product can be seen to come from.
Links: – Bourjois –
This change of focus could have easily come from the ever increasing pressure of climate change and being friendlier to our environment; nevertheless capitalism could easily have been an influence on this change as well. Especially since there is pressure for using more environmentally-friendly products on consumers, making it more about profit and less about caring for the planet. As consumers, we can easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, as after all, it’s made for us, and the promise of natural ingredients often mesmerises us into thinking it will do better than all the other products we have bought. It may be assumed that this shift in market focus is trying to signal the move away from chemically enhanced products as perhaps that doesn’t sound too appealing anymore.

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The same goes for ethical sourcing of ingredients; this is a great way for other countries to get fair pay and conditions, and however this can be viewed as a way of the market to ease our conscience of buying more and more products, especially in a time of economic crisis. There has without a doubt been a significant rise in brands specialising and advertising their ethical, natural and organic sourced products, when I only remember when I was younger The Body Shop and their adherence to stop animal testing, therefore there is definitely the question to ask whether this shift in market focus was because of research into natural and organic skincare working for the environment and being less harsh on our bodies, ethical trade programs for those individuals who do pick and harvest the ingredients first, as opposed to a purposeful money making scheme.
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

It’s clear the beauty industry is relentlessly changing as fast as the fashion industry, approved with both mediums always being used to express the latest trends. It would then come as no surprise that while fashion has been taking an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, visit this which can be seen from clothing brands such as People Tree, that the beauty industry took point and followed. From this new approach, words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become somewhat common when it comes to the latest beauty products, however what do these actually mean, and is there a difference? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??Ethical means being conscious about the recognition of individuals all over the world, and their effort and position it took to get the ingredients which are in the products you’re using. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as FairTrade and The Body Shop sourcing ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America.

This standpoint focuses on the conditions and pays those individuals who source ingredients receive, such as, recently there has been questions raised as to the conditions of workers in Katie Price’s branded perfumes, which can be considered an ethical dilemma. Also under the ethical standpoint is the adherence to not test on animals. Most beauty and skincare products do not test on animals; however consumers must always check the packaging, as this is another area of controversy.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

?Natural is another term that often gets confused with what it actually means for beauty products. Brands which use this term are Lush, The Body Shop, Naked Shampoo & Conditioners, Origins and many more. Natural generally means nature and the state in which we are to begin with, (i.e. no makeup or enhancements) however there is also the viewpoint of ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up.

?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? More viewpoints come into the fray when questions start to get asked on where that sugar was produced. Has it got more ingredients than sugar? Is that honey, 100% honey? There are two issues which have been raised here, and that is the issue of Organic sourced products, which will be discussed, and secondly, that more often than not, products are not 100% natural. The brand ‘Naked’ Shampoo & Conditioner use 97% natural products and Lush, while try to make their products 100% natural, there are still some of their products which are only partially natural; “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Lending the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

??Organic is another term that seems to be related to natural skincare. Organic skincare focuses on the sourcing and products of the ingredients, often meaning that no parabens or synthetic emollients, synthetic humectants, synthetic emulsifiers, synthetic surfactants; synthetic preservatives, artificial dyes, no colourings, flavourings or additives are included. Brands which are focusing on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. As you can see organic skincare is looking more at the ingredients on the back of a product and often overlaps into natural skincare and ingredients because of the adherence to none synthetic additions.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused with these words, and what they mean, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, which kind of products should you be going for? However the decision might be easier than you think. More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, the body shop is a chain which adheres to ethical and fair trade policies, while sourcing natural ingredients in a majority of their products. Also to some degree, using products which are organic, such as the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox foundation and concealer, which boasts 98% organic and natural ingredients, is helping the planet by not using or supporting the use of chemicals which may not be so environmentally friendly, this is on the pretence that a majority of organic ingredients are bio-degradable and do not destroy the planet – which is where the name of this product can be seen to come from.
Links: – Bourjois –
This change of focus could have easily come from the ever increasing pressure of climate change and being friendlier to our environment; nevertheless capitalism could easily have been an influence on this change as well. Especially since there is pressure for using more environmentally-friendly products on consumers, making it more about profit and less about caring for the planet. As consumers, we can easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, as after all, it’s made for us, and the promise of natural ingredients often mesmerises us into thinking it will do better than all the other products we have bought. It may be assumed that this shift in market focus is trying to signal the move away from chemically enhanced products as perhaps that doesn’t sound too appealing anymore.

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The same goes for ethical sourcing of ingredients; this is a great way for other countries to get fair pay and conditions, and however this can be viewed as a way of the market to ease our conscience of buying more and more products, especially in a time of economic crisis. There has without a doubt been a significant rise in brands specialising and advertising their ethical, natural and organic sourced products, when I only remember when I was younger The Body Shop and their adherence to stop animal testing, therefore there is definitely the question to ask whether this shift in market focus was because of research into natural and organic skincare working for the environment and being less harsh on our bodies, ethical trade programs for those individuals who do pick and harvest the ingredients first, as opposed to a purposeful money making scheme.
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

It’s clear the beauty industry is relentlessly changing as fast as the fashion industry, information pills with both mediums always being used to express the latest trends. It would then come as no surprise that while fashion has been taking an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, price which can be seen from clothing brands such as People Tree, medical that the beauty industry took point and followed. From this new approach, words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become somewhat common when it comes to the latest beauty products, however what do these actually mean, and is there a difference? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??Ethical means being conscious about the recognition of individuals all over the world, and their effort and position it took to get the ingredients which are in the products you’re using. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as FairTrade and The Body Shop sourcing ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America.

This standpoint focuses on the conditions and pays those individuals who source ingredients receive, such as, recently there has been questions raised as to the conditions of workers in Katie Price’s branded perfumes, which can be considered an ethical dilemma. Also under the ethical standpoint is the adherence to not test on animals. Most beauty and skincare products do not test on animals; however consumers must always check the packaging, as this is another area of controversy.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

?Natural is another term that often gets confused with what it actually means for beauty products. Brands which use this term are Lush, The Body Shop, Naked Shampoo & Conditioners, Origins and many more. Natural generally means nature and the state in which we are to begin with, (i.e. no makeup or enhancements) however there is also the viewpoint of ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up.

?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? More viewpoints come into the fray when questions start to get asked on where that sugar was produced. Has it got more ingredients than sugar? Is that honey, 100% honey? There are two issues which have been raised here, and that is the issue of Organic sourced products, which will be discussed, and secondly, that more often than not, products are not 100% natural. The brand ‘Naked’ Shampoo & Conditioner use 97% natural products and Lush, while try to make their products 100% natural, there are still some of their products which are only partially natural; “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Lending the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

??Organic is another term that seems to be related to natural skincare. Organic skincare focuses on the sourcing and products of the ingredients, often meaning that no parabens or synthetic emollients, synthetic humectants, synthetic emulsifiers, synthetic surfactants; synthetic preservatives, artificial dyes, no colourings, flavourings or additives are included. Brands which are focusing on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. As you can see organic skincare is looking more at the ingredients on the back of a product and often overlaps into natural skincare and ingredients because of the adherence to none synthetic additions.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused with these words, and what they mean, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, which kind of products should you be going for? However the decision might be easier than you think. More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, the body shop is a chain which adheres to ethical and fair trade policies, while sourcing natural ingredients in a majority of their products. Also to some degree, using products which are organic, such as the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox foundation and concealer, which boasts 98% organic and natural ingredients, is helping the planet by not using or supporting the use of chemicals which may not be so environmentally friendly, this is on the pretence that a majority of organic ingredients are bio-degradable and do not destroy the planet – which is where the name of this product can be seen to come from.
Links: – Bourjois –
This change of focus could have easily come from the ever increasing pressure of climate change and being friendlier to our environment; nevertheless capitalism could easily have been an influence on this change as well. Especially since there is pressure for using more environmentally-friendly products on consumers, making it more about profit and less about caring for the planet. As consumers, we can easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, as after all, it’s made for us, and the promise of natural ingredients often mesmerises us into thinking it will do better than all the other products we have bought. It may be assumed that this shift in market focus is trying to signal the move away from chemically enhanced products as perhaps that doesn’t sound too appealing anymore.

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The same goes for ethical sourcing of ingredients; this is a great way for other countries to get fair pay and conditions, and however this can be viewed as a way of the market to ease our conscience of buying more and more products, especially in a time of economic crisis. There has without a doubt been a significant rise in brands specialising and advertising their ethical, natural and organic sourced products, when I only remember when I was younger The Body Shop and their adherence to stop animal testing, therefore there is definitely the question to ask whether this shift in market focus was because of research into natural and organic skincare working for the environment and being less harsh on our bodies, ethical trade programs for those individuals who do pick and harvest the ingredients first, as opposed to a purposeful money making scheme.
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

It’s clear the beauty industry is relentlessly changing as fast as the fashion industry, order with both mediums always being used to express the latest trends. It would then come as no surprise that while fashion has been taking an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, which can be seen from clothing brands such as People Tree, that the beauty industry took point and followed. From this new approach, words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become somewhat common when it comes to the latest beauty products, however what do these actually mean, and is there a difference? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??Ethical means being conscious about the recognition of individuals all over the world, and their effort and position it took to get the ingredients which are in the products you’re using. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as FairTrade and The Body Shop sourcing ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America.

This standpoint focuses on the conditions and pays those individuals who source ingredients receive, such as, recently there has been questions raised as to the conditions of workers in Katie Price’s branded perfumes, which can be considered an ethical dilemma. Also under the ethical standpoint is the adherence to not test on animals. Most beauty and skincare products do not test on animals; however consumers must always check the packaging, as this is another area of controversy.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

?Natural is another term that often gets confused with what it actually means for beauty products. Brands which use this term are Lush, The Body Shop, Naked Shampoo & Conditioners, Origins and many more. Natural generally means nature and the state in which we are to begin with, (i.e. no makeup or enhancements) however there is also the viewpoint of ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up.

?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? More viewpoints come into the fray when questions start to get asked on where that sugar was produced. Has it got more ingredients than sugar? Is that honey, 100% honey? There are two issues which have been raised here, and that is the issue of Organic sourced products, which will be discussed, and secondly, that more often than not, products are not 100% natural. The brand ‘Naked’ Shampoo & Conditioner use 97% natural products and Lush, while try to make their products 100% natural, there are still some of their products which are only partially natural; “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Lending the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

??Organic is another term that seems to be related to natural skincare. Organic skincare focuses on the sourcing and products of the ingredients, often meaning that no parabens or synthetic emollients, synthetic humectants, synthetic emulsifiers, synthetic surfactants; synthetic preservatives, artificial dyes, no colourings, flavourings or additives are included. Brands which are focusing on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. As you can see organic skincare is looking more at the ingredients on the back of a product and often overlaps into natural skincare and ingredients because of the adherence to none synthetic additions.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused with these words, and what they mean, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, which kind of products should you be going for? However the decision might be easier than you think. More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, the body shop is a chain which adheres to ethical and fair trade policies, while sourcing natural ingredients in a majority of their products. Also to some degree, using products which are organic, such as the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox foundation and concealer, which boasts 98% organic and natural ingredients, is helping the planet by not using or supporting the use of chemicals which may not be so environmentally friendly, this is on the pretence that a majority of organic ingredients are bio-degradable and do not destroy the planet – which is where the name of this product can be seen to come from.
Links: – Bourjois –
This change of focus could have easily come from the ever increasing pressure of climate change and being friendlier to our environment; nevertheless capitalism could easily have been an influence on this change as well. Especially since there is pressure for using more environmentally-friendly products on consumers, making it more about profit and less about caring for the planet. As consumers, we can easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, as after all, it’s made for us, and the promise of natural ingredients often mesmerises us into thinking it will do better than all the other products we have bought. It may be assumed that this shift in market focus is trying to signal the move away from chemically enhanced products as perhaps that doesn’t sound too appealing anymore.

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The same goes for ethical sourcing of ingredients; this is a great way for other countries to get fair pay and conditions, and however this can be viewed as a way of the market to ease our conscience of buying more and more products, especially in a time of economic crisis. There has without a doubt been a significant rise in brands specialising and advertising their ethical, natural and organic sourced products, when I only remember when I was younger The Body Shop and their adherence to stop animal testing, therefore there is definitely the question to ask whether this shift in market focus was because of research into natural and organic skincare working for the environment and being less harsh on our bodies, ethical trade programs for those individuals who do pick and harvest the ingredients first, as opposed to a purposeful money making scheme.
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

The beauty industry changes as fast as the fashion industry, website like this constantly updating in line with the latest trends. Fashion has taken an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, best epitomised in high profile clothing brands such as People Tree. Now earth-friendly beauty products are burgeoning too. Words such as Ethical, Natural and Organic have become common when it comes to the latest beauty products, but what do these actually mean, and is there a difference between them? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??

Ethical:
Ethical means being conscious of the efforts and conditions under which products are produced. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as Fair Trade. A good example of an ethical company is The Body Shop, which sources Fair Trade ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America. On the other end of the spectrum questions have been raised about the conditions of workers making Katie Price’s branded perfumes. Most ethical products are not tested on animals, but for this consumers must always check the packaging.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

Natural:
?Natural is another confusing term when applied to beauty products. Brands which use this term include Lush, The Body Shop, Origins and many more. Natural can be applied to the state in which we are without intervention, i.e. no makeup or enhancements. However one may ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up. ?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? Where were the honey and sugar sourced from? Lush aspires to make 100% natural products but they include this disclaimer: “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Which leads to the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

Organic:
Organic skincare means there is no chemicals, colourings, flavourings or additives in the production of ingredients or at the manufacturing stage. Brands which focus on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. Organic skincare naturally overlaps with natural skincare.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused by these words, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, so which kind of products should you go for? The decision might be easier than you think… More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, The Body Shop adheres to both ethical and Fair Trade policies and sources natural ingredients for the majority of their products. But not all organic products are particularly ethical. Take the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox Organic Foundation which boasts 98% natural ingredients and 21% organic ingredients… how is it maunfactured?

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Maybe it’s increasing awareness of how harmful chemicals can be to our skin or the ever increasing pressure to be kind to the environment; but the demand for more environmentally-friendly products has certainly inspired companies to seek profit from organic and natural products in growing numbers. As consumers, we are easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, but it’s important to consider how these products are made as well, so it could be argued that ethical production is by far the most important aspect of any purchase. Ethical production ensures that workers get fair pay and conditions, but there is also the very serious risk of over dependence on the huge markets of the capitalist west: forcing yet another kind of colonialism onto impoverished parts of the world.

In the meantime maybe it’s best to buy from small brands that strive to make things locally from 100% natural and organic ingredients. Coming next…
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

The beauty industry changes as fast as the fashion industry, this constantly updating in line with the latest trends. Fashion has taken an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, more about best epitomised in high profile clothing brands such as People Tree. Now earth-friendly beauty products are burgeoning too. Words such as Ethical, sale Natural and Organic have become common when it comes to the latest beauty products, but what do these actually mean, and is there a difference between them? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??

Ethical:
Ethical means being conscious of the efforts and conditions under which products are produced. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as Fair Trade. A good example of an ethical company is The Body Shop, which sources Fair Trade ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America. On the other end of the spectrum questions have been raised about the conditions of workers making Katie Price’s branded perfumes. Most ethical products are not tested on animals, but for this consumers must always check the packaging.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

Natural:
?Natural is another confusing term when applied to beauty products. Brands which use this term include Lush, The Body Shop, Origins and many more. Natural can be applied to the state in which we are without intervention, i.e. no makeup or enhancements. However one may ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up. ?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? Where were the honey and sugar sourced from? Lush aspires to make 100% natural products but they include this disclaimer: “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Which leads to the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

Organic:
Organic skincare means there is no chemicals, colourings, flavourings or additives in the production of ingredients or at the manufacturing stage. Brands which focus on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. Organic skincare naturally overlaps with natural skincare.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused by these words, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, so which kind of products should you go for? The decision might be easier than you think… More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, The Body Shop adheres to both ethical and Fair Trade policies and sources natural ingredients for the majority of their products. But not all organic products are particularly ethical. Take the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox Organic Foundation which boasts 98% natural ingredients and 21% organic ingredients… how is it maunfactured?

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Maybe it’s increasing awareness of how harmful chemicals can be to our skin or the ever increasing pressure to be kind to the environment; but the demand for more environmentally-friendly products has certainly inspired companies to seek profit from organic and natural products in growing numbers. As consumers, we are easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, but it’s important to consider how these products are made as well, so it could be argued that ethical production is by far the most important aspect of any purchase. Ethical production ensures that workers get fair pay and conditions, but there is also the very serious risk of over dependence on the huge markets of the capitalist west: forcing yet another kind of colonialism onto impoverished parts of the world.

In the meantime maybe it’s best to buy from small brands that strive to make things locally from 100% natural and organic ingredients. Coming next…
ethical beauty by sandra contreras
Illustration by Sandra Contreras

The beauty industry changes as fast as the fashion industry, order constantly updating in line with the latest trends. Fashion has taken an organic and earth friendly approach for some time now, viagra buy best epitomised in high profile clothing brands such as People Tree. Now earth-friendly beauty products are burgeoning too. Words such as Ethical, discount Natural and Organic have become common when it comes to the latest beauty products, but what do these actually mean, and is there a difference between them? If a product is ethical do we somehow think it is natural as well? If something is natural must it also be organic? I’ll now take you through an explanation of these expressions and what they can mean for your skin, and the planet.??

Ethical:
Ethical means being conscious of the efforts and conditions under which products are produced. It is often linked with Community Trade Programs such as Fair Trade. A good example of an ethical company is The Body Shop, which sources Fair Trade ingredients from countries such as Africa and South America. On the other end of the spectrum questions have been raised about the conditions of workers making Katie Price’s branded perfumes, which were withdrawn from the shelves of Superdrug earlier this year. Most ethical products are not tested on animals, but for this consumers must always check the packaging.

Dee-Andrews-Ethical-Beauty
Illustration by Dee Andrews

Natural:
?Natural is another confusing term when applied to beauty products. Brands which use this term include Lush, The Body Shop, Origins and many more. Natural can be applied to the state in which we are without intervention, i.e. no makeup or enhancements. However one may ‘naturally enhancing’ one’s natural features with minimal make up. ?Natural beauty, figuratively speaking, is made from nature, so if you go get some sugar and honey and mix them together for an exfoliating face mask, it would be natural, and the ingredients would be 100% natural. But would they? Where were the honey and sugar sourced from? Lush aspires to make 100% natural products but they include this disclaimer: “we go for lovely natural ingredients and use as few synthetics as possible. In fact, we have an incredible range of natural products with no synthetics at all. Over 70% of our range is totally unpreserved and we will aim to improve on that.” (Lush, 2010) Which leads to the conclusion that up to 30% of lush’s products are not 100% natural, even though the entire range is marketed to consumers as natural skincare.

Organic:
Organic skincare means there is no chemicals, colourings, flavourings or additives in the production of ingredients or at the manufacturing stage. Brands which focus on organic skincare include Lush, Neal’s Yard, L’Occitane, Organic Surge and Liz Earle. Organic skincare naturally overlaps with natural skincare.

ethical_beauty3_by_jennifercostello
Illustration by Jennifer Costello

?It’s easy to get confused by these words, especially if you’re committed to being earth friendly, so which kind of products should you go for? The decision might be easier than you think… More often than not, ethical products are to some degree, natural and organic, for example, The Body Shop adheres to both ethical and Fair Trade policies and sources natural ingredients for the majority of their products. But not all organic products are particularly ethical. Take the newly released Bourjois Bio-Detox Organic Foundation which boasts 98% natural ingredients and 21% organic ingredients… how is it maunfactured?

ethicalbeauty_aniela murphy
Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Maybe it’s increasing awareness of how harmful chemicals can be to our skin or the ever increasing pressure to be kind to the environment; but the demand for more environmentally-friendly products has certainly inspired companies to seek profit from organic and natural products in growing numbers. As consumers, we are easily be lured into thinking that anything ‘natural’ is good for us and the environment, but it’s important to consider how these products are made as well, so it could be argued that ethical production is by far the most important aspect of any purchase. Ethical production ensures that workers get fair pay and conditions, but there is also the very serious risk of over dependence on the huge markets of the capitalist west: forcing yet another kind of colonialism onto impoverished parts of the world.

In the meantime maybe it’s best to buy from small brands that strive to make things locally from 100% natural and organic ingredients. Coming next…
This is the Kit wriggle out the restless

I’ve always loved France, this harbouring an intention to learn the French lingo for many years. I’m not being frivolous, visit I can assure you. I am able to testify to my desire through my ginger cat, sildenafil whom I named Francois and my half French boy. Oui, j’adore France! Kate Stables wanted to learn French too, so she moved to Paris. Always an observer of life’s idiosyncrasies, she found her vision could stretch even further when she left Bristol’s borough and sat within a caffeinated artery of France. Stables, the singer/musician/protagonist in This Is The Kit, defines the music they create as ‘Screamo/Emo/Flamenco’. Which in a sense it is. A feisty, heart dancing, spirited, emotional flounce. Folky but not in the jingly sense, more soulful and with minimal instruments.

This Is The Kit by Kayleigh Bluck
This Is The Kit by Kayleigh Bluck

Stables is an endearing, dark Rapunzel locked figure. Her voice shoots through you like the first sip of wine after a slog of a day, trapped in an unlit cave. You will find This Is The Kit will gently waft along on a gondolier, tell you it’s all ok, then fighting off the cave bats with their melodies, take you outside to some weeping willow adorned fairy land. She beholds a sound similar to Mary Hampton and Martha Tilston, but more girl next door in pronunciation, realness and the simplicity of lyrics. See: Two Wooden Spoons and Our Socks Forever More. The latter, sang with an acoustic guitar and ukelele, is about wanting to take off your shoes and socks forever more. ‘One of these days’ going to make it back ‘to your mattress’… but ‘I have a thing about sound sufficiency’. It’s a haunting, touching song about decisions, desires and, ‘that someone’. Moon has to be the most splendid of songs about first breath romance. After being lost in the skies, the couple come down, gasping for air and hit by reality. It has only a few lines, but manages an upbeat yet serious undertone feel to it. ‘We had the Moon’ says all it needs to.

This Is The Kit by Kayleigh Bluck
This Is The Kit by Kayleigh Bluck.

It’s nice to be sitting down when you listen to This Is The Kit, with some Pear and Apple cider preferably, or indeed a cafe au lait, if you want to make it French. At many of their relaxed, low key shows (such as Village Halls) you can do this. However, This Is The Kit have also played with big Folk heros like Jeffrey Lewis in their time – so you’ll probably be somewhere bigger, without sitting potential and Maureen and Agnes’ tapestry collections festooning the wooden walls (shame). Multitalented Stables plays guitar, banjo, trumpet and percussion. Often she is joined on stage by her musical friends including Rozi Plain, Jim Barr and Francois and The Atlas Mountains. Tres Bon. Their latest album, Wriggle Out The Restless, on Dreamboat Records, was produced by long term collaborator, Jesse D Vernon, who also often plays on stage as a two piece with Stables.

Continuing to flit across the Channel, This Is The Kit are worth seeing whilst they are this side. They encourage the celebration of the pure and simple things in life. The joy from another person and the beauty right out there. French people will tell you about this: I quote Chamfort, the 18th century French playwright: “Contemplation often makes life miserable. We should act more, think less, and stop watching ourselves live.” Think about this, at a time when most of the world belongs to some form of networking site. Encouraging self evaluation, we discuss our loves, losses, diets and determinations into the abyss. France and This Is The Kit say: look out and to the people we care about.

This Is The Kit released their latest album Wriggle Out the Restless last week on Dreamboat Records. They are also touring at the moment. Catch them in London during mid November, or check out other dates on our listing here.

Categories ,bristol, ,Cider, ,Dreamboat Records, ,folk, ,france, ,Francois and The Atlas Mountains, ,french, ,Jeffrey Lewis, ,Jesse D Vernon, ,Jim Barr, ,Kate Stables, ,Kayleigh Bluck, ,Martha Tilston, ,mary hampton, ,paris, ,Rozi Plain, ,This Is The Kit

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Amelia’s Magazine | Martha Tilston, A Musical Goddess


Illustration by Emma Block

From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, here Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.  

Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label. 

Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!” 


Illustration by Holly Trill

Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them! 

Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech. 

You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made. 

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds. 

You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones. 


Illustration by Cat Palairet

Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well! 

 Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see! 

What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A. 

What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…

Illustration by Emma Block

From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, more about Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.  

Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, approved Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label. 

Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, visit this how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!” 


Illustration by Holly Trill

Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them! 

Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech. 

You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made. 

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds. 

You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones. 


Illustration by Cat Palairet

Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well! 

 Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see! 

What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A. 

What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…

Illustration by Emma Block

From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, dosage Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.  

Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label. 

Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!” 


Illustration by Holly Trill

Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them! 

Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech. 

You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made. 


Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds. 

You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones. 


Illustration by Cat Palairet

Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well! 

 Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see! 

What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A

What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…
 Gareth A Hopkins _ Martha Tilston _ Ameliasmagazine _480dpx

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

If you’re feeling a bit delicate and would quite like to be wafted by a soft feathery fan type device, no rx as you contemplate, viagra Martha Tilston is for you. With songs entitled; Wild Swimming, Rockpools, Space and Firefly, she is all about sweet country and looking out from under the covers. But with the protection of delicate notes and kindness.

I first discovered Martha Tilston a few years ago and to be honest, I didn’t really want to tell anyone about her. She is my safety blanket and makes me feel at home. Back when she and I met, I had just left University in Cornwall and was at a loss as to what the hell to do next. My boyfriend and I moved to Bristol and temped for a hideous agency. All winter we were stuck working together inputting money off coupons for Tena Lady. Fabulous for any relationship. We’d cycle there, numb ourselves for eight hours, then cycle home. I kept a notebook by my desk and had my i pod streaming Tilston. I wrote loads in those endless, dark hours.

Then our bikes got stolen, we were laid off Tena Lady, our rented flat was put up for sale and I wrote even more. Tilston is good as a background to “Why is the world doing this to me?!” She restores faith. I give you Lucy:

Literally surrounded by art, Martha Tilston must have found it hard not be inspired as she grew up. She was born in the West Country and is the daughter of English folk singer, Steve Tilston. When her parents split, she moved to somewhere just outside London with her artist mother, who remarried a theatre director. As a teenager she would play the piano every night to the family. This led to Tilston writing songs and then picking up the guitar. Throughout she also visited Bristol, where her father and stepmother, Maggie Boyle– also a folk singer – lived. There she would spend time with folk legends like John Renbourn and Bert Jansch. Imagine! How could she not be arty?

Illustration by Karina Yarv

In 2000, she formed a duo, Mouse, with guitarist Nick Marshall. Releasing two albums, they became extremely popular with the more underground loving, festival goers. However, Tilston decided to go solo in 2002, supporting Damien Rice on a tour in Ireland. Then in 2005, she released her first full length album, Blimbling on her own label Squiggly. This album holds Brighton Song, (which is where she was living at the time) a song I adore and makes me think about my years growing up in the hills next to the coastal city. Ah – nostalgia. Bimbling was funded by selling the original canvases she had painted to provide the artwork for the CD.

Martha Bimbling

Bimbling album available on Squiggly Records – Art work by Martha Tilston

Tilston was nominated for Best New Act at the BBC Folk Awards in 2007. She has since become increasingly popular and has opened the Acoustic Stage at Glastonbury. However, she still loves impromptu and small shows. Her love of music outshining any desire for glitz. Her latest album Lucy and The Wolves, (Squiggly Records through Proper) is out now. It features her glorious band; The Woods, comprising of a host of instruments, including the mandolin, cello, violin and double bass. They truly add and compliment the atmospheric, delicate sound. Favourites include the aforementioned; Wild Swimming and Rockppols. The former, a slow, purposeful song full of delicious lust and feeling. The simile of liberating and beautiful night swimming, illustrating the purity of her love. Whilst Rockpools is also dedication to love and nature, it is centered more on her comfort found in the landscapes and nuggets of beauty. Eyes clapping on a tiny piece of peace, that at that second is shining only for you to see.

Martha Lucy and the Wolves

Lucy and The Wolves available on Squiggly Records through Proper. Art work by Martha Tilston

To summarise; Tilston is thought out, dancing on the hills, living in yurts complete with outdoor fires, English folk. If you like artists like Mary Hampton, Alela Diane and gentle Bellowhead, and you don’t know about Martha Tilston already, then you really should listen. If you don’t like folk, listen anyway, as she will make you feel wrapped up and safe on a blustery January day. Like today.

Martha Tilston‘s albums are available on Squiggly Records and she is touring in May, with dates to be released – Watch out for listings on Amelia’s Magazine.

Categories ,Alela Diane, ,Bellowhead, ,Bert Jansch, ,Bimbling, ,brighton, ,bristol, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Helen Martin, ,John Renbourn, ,Karina Yarv, ,london, ,Lucy and The Wolves, ,Maggie Boyle, ,Martha Tilston, ,mary hampton, ,Mouse, ,Proper, ,Squiggly Records, ,Steve Tilston, ,Tena Lady

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Amelia’s Magazine | Music Listings: 2nd – 8th November

tatty devine

Diamond Tears

From the 13th November the Tatty Devine Brick Lane gallery space will host an exhibition of work by artist Verena Paloma Jabs. ‘Diamond Tears‘ will showcase Jabs‘ mixed media collages and animations inspired by dark, remedy fantastical imagery from fairy tales and the illusory, murky depths of dreamtime. Her English and Russian heritage and resisdence in Germany have informed her work – expect to see laser cut acrylic frames and a limited edition heart shaped necklace, all featuring black silohuettes of woodland scenes and animals against beautiful landscapes.

November 13th Tatty Devine, Brick Lane

makeitprintitpackitshipit

Make It Print It Pack It Ship It

Another pop-up gallery presented by MA and MFA Fine Art students from Slade School Of Fine Art will take place in Tottenham Court Road from this Monday for one week. The exhibition will be made up of sculpture, installation and painting from the eighteen artists. Exploring surrounding cultural, social and physical environment through the vehicle of the pop-up store, it will adopt the methods of production and dissemination of commercialism. 605 x 505, a box set of limited edition prints to accompany the exhibition, will also be available throughout the week.

November 2nd – 6th, 145 Tottenham Court Road, London

national portrait gallery

Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2009

Taking place at the National Portrait Gallery, this year’s competition is back again to offer up the cream of today’s contemporary photography practitioners. A mix of fresh new talent will be presented alongside more experienced veterans of photography. A remarkable 2,400 entrants have applied this year, resulting in over 6,300 images to be whittled down to sixty pieces for the final exhibition, including the four overall winners and the winner of the Godfrey Argent Award for an outstanding portrait by an entrant between the ages of 18 and 25 years old.

November 5th 2009 – February 14th 2010, National Portrait Gallery

panik

Panik – Changing Faces

Panik, the alias of Jack Murray is said to be one of the most prolific young graffitti writers of today. More accustomed to using the streets of London as his canvas, he is now bringing his work to the confines of four walls for the first time, in the form of this exhibition at The Underground. Panik comments that, “Creating work in the studio helps me move in the right direction, relax, delve into my thoughts and break down my style, which gives me confidence to experiment more on the streets. At the same time painting on the streets releases a lot of my inner tensions and gets my adrenalin pumping fuelling a lot of what’s behind my paintings”. Get yourself down to Argyle Walk this Thursday for the Private View.

November 6th – 28th, 26 Argyle Square London

one taste festival 2009

One Taste Festival 2009

The fourth festival in their run so far, One Taste are back again with what has been described as ‘a 3 floor art explosion’ at the venue of The Bedford. There will be a generous serving of all things creative including music, poetry, film, art, philosophy, workshops, parades, theatre, DJs, dancing, food and much more. The event will start in the day and last though to the night. Some of the acts that will be there include Antic Bantic who will be providing games, music and art, a Lucid Dreaming workshop: Learn the art of Lucid Dreaming by Charley Morely, face painting by Bella Faces and Live Story Writing – collective story writing with OneTaste favourite poets.

November 8th, The Bedford 77 Bedford Hill, London

lets get ready to jumble

Let’s Get Ready To Jumble!

This Saturday The Monarch on Chalk Fram Road will welcome the friendliest of monthly afternoon jumble sales. Providing ‘treasures and pleasures galore’. Mens and women’s vintage, records, books, bric-a-brac, tombola and craft are promised and there are firework displays on at Primrose Hill and Alexandra Palace that night so we are asked to find something sparkly to go with your sparkler!

7th November, The Monarch, 40-42 Chalk Farm Road, London

tatty devine

Diamond Tears

From the 13th November the Tatty Devine Brick Lane gallery space will host an exhibition of work by artist Verena Paloma Jabs. ‘Diamond Tears‘ will showcase Jabs‘ mixed media collages and animations inspired by dark, sick fantastical imagery from fairy tales and the illusory, look murky depths of dreamtime. Her English and Russian heritage and resisdence in Germany have informed her work – expect to see laser cut acrylic frames and a limited edition heart shaped necklace, all featuring black silohuettes of woodland scenes and animals against beautiful landscapes.

November 13th Tatty Devine, Brick Lane

makeitprintitpackitshipit

Make It Print It Pack It Ship It

Another pop-up gallery presented by MA and MFA Fine Art students from Slade School Of Fine Art will take place in Tottenham Court Road from this Monday for one week. The exhibition will be made up of sculpture, installation and painting from the eighteen artists. Exploring surrounding cultural, social and physical environment through the vehicle of the pop-up store, it will adopt the methods of production and dissemination of commercialism. 605 x 505, a box set of limited edition prints to accompany the exhibition, will also be available throughout the week.

November 2nd – 6th, 145 Tottenham Court Road, London

national portrait gallery

Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2009

Taking place at the National Portrait Gallery, this year’s competition is back again to offer up the cream of today’s contemporary photography practitioners. A mix of fresh new talent will be presented alongside more experienced veterans of photography. A remarkable 2,400 entrants have applied this year, resulting in over 6,300 images to be whittled down to sixty pieces for the final exhibition, including the four overall winners and the winner of the Godfrey Argent Award for an outstanding portrait by an entrant between the ages of 18 and 25 years old.

November 5th 2009 – February 14th 2010, National Portrait Gallery

panik

Panik – Changing Faces

Panik, the alias of Jack Murray is said to be one of the most prolific young graffitti writers of today. More accustomed to using the streets of London as his canvas, he is now bringing his work to the confines of four walls for the first time, in the form of this exhibition at The Underground. Panik comments that, “Creating work in the studio helps me move in the right direction, relax, delve into my thoughts and break down my style, which gives me confidence to experiment more on the streets. At the same time painting on the streets releases a lot of my inner tensions and gets my adrenalin pumping fuelling a lot of what’s behind my paintings”. Get yourself down to Argyle Walk this Thursday for the Private View.

November 6th – 28th, 26 Argyle Square London

one taste festival 2009

One Taste Festival 2009

The fourth festival in their run so far, One Taste are back again with what has been described as ‘a 3 floor art explosion’ at the venue of The Bedford. There will be a generous serving of all things creative including music, poetry, film, art, philosophy, workshops, parades, theatre, DJs, dancing, food and much more. The event will start in the day and last though to the night. Some of the acts that will be there include Antic Bantic who will be providing games, music and art, a Lucid Dreaming workshop: Learn the art of Lucid Dreaming by Charley Morely, face painting by Bella Faces and Live Story Writing – collective story writing with OneTaste favourite poets.

November 8th, The Bedford 77 Bedford Hill, London

lets get ready to jumble

Let’s Get Ready To Jumble!

This Saturday The Monarch on Chalk Fram Road will welcome the friendliest of monthly afternoon jumble sales. Providing ‘treasures and pleasures galore’. Mens and women’s vintage, records, books, bric-a-brac, tombola and craft are promised and there are firework displays on at Primrose Hill and Alexandra Palace that night so we are asked to find something sparkly to go with your sparkler!

7th November, The Monarch, 40-42 Chalk Farm Road, London

laura-marling

Monday 2nd November, sickness Daniel Johnston and Laura Marling, web Union Chapel

Troubled singer-songwriter troubadour Johnston returns to the circuit playing his brand of brutally honest lo-fi songs ahead of next year’s new album release. Joining him in this tour is equally avoiding of eye contact and (almost) equally as beguiling, viagra Marling who will probably also have new material to share.

camera-obscura

Tuesday 3rd November, Camera Obscura, Shepherd’s Bush Empire

Glaswegian group, Camera Obscura, play their saccharine, melancholic indie pop evocative of Belle & Sebastian including latest album, ‘My Maudlin Career.’

everything everything

Wednesday 4th November, Everything Everything, ICA

These four Mancunian chaps have provided one of Amelia’s Magazine’s favourite songs of 2009 in Photoshop Handsome, we’re hoping the rest of their set can deliver as perfectly crafted indie pop and doesn’t veer to far down The Futureheads vein.

Gaggle2

Thursday 5th November, Dead Kids, Gaggle and Invasion, Corsica Studios

This club night by South East London collective, Off Modern, consistently puts out great music and for their fifth birthday celebration they are putting on a right royal shebang of a party. The celebratory music is provided by party starters Dead Kids, all-girl choir sensation Gaggle (pictured) and cosmic psych-metallers Invasion.

lulu-small

Friday 6th November, Peggy Sue, Sons of Noel and Adrian, Mechanical Bride and Lulu & The Lampshades, ICA

For the sake of adhering to the mantra including the words, ‘variety’ ‘spice’ and ‘life’, we wouldn’t usually promote revisiting venues in the same week, but Peggy Sue, formerly possessed of Pirates, gives us an excuse to do just that. There are a host a great support acts including our former Music Editor, Lulu & The Lampshades.

james-yorkston

Saturday 7th November, James Yorkston And The Big Eyes Family Players, Alasdair Roberts, Marry Gilhooley and Mary Hampton & David Jaycock, The Tabernacle

For an anti-X Factor, anti-Saturday night out sample this almighty cast of folk polymath players play The Tabernacle with Yorkston heading the bill. Enigmatic Roberts and ethereal Hampton are particular gems in this stellar line-up.

espers

Sunday 8th November, Espers, Rough Trade East

This Philadelphian neo-folk sextet are known for their evocative blend of traditional and 60s folk and, yes you guessed it, have a new album to plug, ‘III’ follows a self-consciously song-based path. And what’s more this is free.

Categories ,alasdair roberts, ,Camera Obscura, ,Daniel Johnston, ,Dead Kids, ,espers, ,everything everything, ,gaggle, ,gig, ,invasion, ,James Yorkston, ,Laura Marling, ,listings, ,london, ,Lulu and the Lampshades, ,mary hampton, ,mechanical bride, ,Peggy Sue, ,sons of noel and adrian, ,the futureheads

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Amelia’s Magazine | Interview: Laura Hocking


Illustration by Georgia Coote

As with all the best new music discoveries, more about my introduction to Laura Hocking and The Long Goodbye began with snippets from light-hearted conversations. By the time that three separate friends, (whose judgement I value deeply) had announced excitedly that they were off to see her play, waxing lyrical about her delicate voice, gorgeous harmonies and all-round One To Watch-ness, I couldn’t resist it any longer. Cut to a few Sunday nights back where I found myself in the top room of the Old Queen’s Head in Angel. So it seemed, did a lot of people; the room was packed – always a good sign! On Saturday night they take this heady brew to Deptford, where they will be playing at the consistently excellent Folie à Deux. The wonder and magic of standing in a converted dairy shed whilst hearing the best of the new alt:folk scene never abates. Laura Hocking and The Long Goodbye describe their sound as ‘folk-tinted freak pop’, which sounds alright by me.

I saw your set at the Old Queen’s Head; I thought it was wonderful, you have a new found fan in me! How did you find the night? 
Thanks! It’s always a nice place to play – the gig was put on by a band we’re friends with so most people knew each other and were into similar music, which makes for a good show. I like the decor in there. Sometimes mid-song you’re faced with yourself in a mirror, which is disconcerting. 

For the uninitiated, can you describe your music? 
 Best description ever came from Jon, who composes music for films. He said it was like biting into a cream cake and finding a razor blade. We call it folk-tinted freak-pop. 

Your Myspace lists a truly expansive and diverse list of influences, and I’m especially intrigued by Expressionism, Edvard Munch, David Lynch, Ingmar Bergman. What is it about expressionism that appeals to you?
Ha, I wrote that a while ago, I haven’t thought about it in a while. I’m fascinated by dark, uncomfortable, macabre things. Expressionism seems to access that place in a person where anxiety and vulnerability meet with violent creativity. Those artists create weird worlds which express their individualism in a ferocious and inventive way, but they also capture elements of human experience that we can all recognise. It rips the scab off of life for you, and I like that. 

 You also mention that your EP is based on “love, anxiety, devastation and renewal”. Do you find writing and performing your songs to be a cathartic process, and has it helped you deal with emotional setbacks?
Writing is always cathartic for me, but the material is not directly about my life. It’s often about all the things I would like to say to people, but don’t have the guts to. So most of my songs are ‘to’ people, rather about them, but I like to hide that message inside a story. It’s a trixy thing to do, I get a kick out of it. If the person wants to find the message, they will.
Writing and performing do help you deal with other parts of your life, because they give you something bigger than yourself to think about. For me, song is bigger than anything.

You are – as yet – unsigned. Do you find it a struggle to do everything yourself (marketing, distribution etc) or do you relish the freedom of being able to navigate your own path? 
It’s been a huge joint effort between me, my band, and our various friends who’ve put together things like the cover design and the website. We’ve really put our heads down and really pushed hard on this release. It’s a hard learning curve, I feel like I’m being schooled and it is quite humbling, but I want to understand how the industry works, and how far we can get under our own steam. It’s going bloody well, we’re more than halfway to selling out our physical stock.
In terms of marketing, music fans are what really count – people who love music and want to support artists and spread the word are a PR force to be reckoned with, and that’s what’s helped me the most. 
     
Your interests outside of performing: this is when most people say something like “long walks, hanging out with friends”, but you say that you have learnt to brew beer and have written an opera?!  I’m not sure what I’m most impressed by…  First, could you give me some pointers on home brewing, and then could you tell me a little more about the opera that you have written?
The formula for a beer is thus: steep something (could be ginger, nettles, elderflower or grains) in hot water for a few hours. Strain. Add lots of sugar. Cool. Add beer yeast. Sterilise a large container  (like a  5l water bottle) pour it in, top with an airlock (at it’s easiest, this can be a balloon over the neck), and leave for about 10 days. Taste with interest. My current brew is quince wine. You can brew anything, but beware of coconut milk…the fat makes it explode. 

The opera is something me and Dan (violinist) worked on together. It’s a translation and adaptation of La Serva Padrona by Pergolesi, a comic operetta from the C18th. I’m writing the libretto (lyrics) and he’s doing the instumentals. It’s like a musical version of Fawlty Towers. We want to stage it, so we’re looking for a space we can use for free. 

You mentioned that you are originally from West Yorkshire.  Do you miss life up North? I lived in Cornwall as a child and deeply miss the open skies, the countryside, the friendliness of locals, the pace of life – but that could be just me!  –  how do you find being a transplanted Northerner in London?
More than anything, I miss being alone in the countryside. I used borrow a neighbour’s dog and walk for a few hours across fields, and not see anyone at all. I don’t think that the North is necessarily friendlier than the South, but people definitely show their emotions more in public – one person can be having a big moan to their friend on the bus, and other passengers will chip in. In London, many people have their Tube face on all the time. Pubs are friendlier in the countryside. Curry is hotter in Bradford than in Brick Lane. I love meeting other Northerners in London. I get all giddy, like a puppy at the park, and out come my northern vowels.     

What are your plans musically in the next year?  I hope to hear about more songs and more live dates!
I have a lot of studio time ahead of me, with about 15 songs which are ready to be demoed out an arranged. I’m lucky that some very talented people have offered their time and resources to work on songs, which I’m grateful for. When a good proportion of them are in the shape I want them, I’ll be looking to release through a label. It’s quite a flirtatious thing to try and arrange – I’ve had interest from several sources but until the songs are ready it’s difficult to talk in concrete terms. 
There will always be lots of live shows in London, I’ve been offered some gigs in California and New York, so I plan to go there next summer. But more than anything I want to get back to the North and play there. 

Where can we find out more, and get hold of your music?
http://laurahocking.bandcamp.com   – as the place to buy music
www.laurahocking.com    – my website
www.facebook.com/laurahockingmusic –  as the best place to network, find gig details and sign up for the mailing list
@laurahocking – my twitter cos I Mary Hampton and Nick Mulvey at Folie à Deux in Deptford.

Illustrations by Georgia Coote, you can find her work here, and here, and follow her on Twitter here.

Original photographs by Anika Mottershaw and Holly Falconer.

Categories ,acoustic, ,Alt:folk, ,Alternative, ,David Lynch, ,Deptford, ,Edvard Munch, ,Expressionism, ,Folie a Deux, ,Ingmar Bergman, ,interview, ,Laura Hocking, ,Laura Hocking and The Long Goodbye, ,live, ,mary hampton, ,music, ,Nick Mulvey, ,Old Queens Head

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Amelia’s Magazine | Martha Tilston, A Musical Goddess


Illustration by Emma Block

From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, here Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.  

Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label. 

Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!” 


Illustration by Holly Trill

Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them! 

Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech. 

You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made. 

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds. 

You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones. 


Illustration by Cat Palairet

Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well! 

 Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see! 

What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A. 

What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…

Illustration by Emma Block

From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, more about Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.  

Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, approved Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label. 

Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, visit this how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!” 


Illustration by Holly Trill

Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them! 

Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech. 

You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made. 

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds. 

You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones. 


Illustration by Cat Palairet

Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well! 

 Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see! 

What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A. 

What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…

Illustration by Emma Block

From student life to Vogue fame in one action packed year, dosage Daisy Knights’ creations have already been snapped up by our most loved style icons and proved that ethically responsible jewellery can still be achingly cool.  

Splitting her time between the simple life in the countryside and the rush of her production process, Daisy tells us a little bit more about the passion and inspiration behind her jewellery collections and what the future holds for this wonderfully British label. 

Your collection has taken off at incredible speed, how does that feel?
It’s great, I’m so happy that people want to buy and wear my designs! I saw my bracelets in Vogue this month and had a moment of “wow, this time last year, I was at university and now my jewellery is in Vogue!” 


Illustration by Holly Trill

Two of your pieces, the Oxidised Feather ring and the 22 Karat Skull ring have recently been worn by Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung, two of the UK’s biggest style icons. Did they approach you personally or was it just a wonderful surprise?
Well, we share the same publicist who made them aware of my pieces and happily, they seemed to love them! 

Which inspirations lie behind your jewellery designs?
Every collection is named after a friend and I use them as a muse for that collection. I aim to embody that person in the collection, My new one is Talullah, after my friend Tallulah Harlech. 

You pride yourself on having an ethically responsible ethos throughout your collection, is this something you have always had a strong belief in?
My workshop is in Britain and even my pouches are made here. I really try to be responsible but it’s not possible yet to get everything transparent sourced, which is what I hope for one day! There are so many grey areas within the industry in regards to where things come from. Keeping things in Britain means I know every person working for me, I know exactly how things are made and every person in my workshop is a highly skilled craftsman/woman. It means that my prices are higher than if I used a factory in India or China but I think the kind of people who buy my jewellery respect that it is very high quality and British made. 


Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Each one of your pieces is hand made from recycled materials, which is becoming increasingly popular in a society where everything seems so disposable. Is this something you aim to maintain and something you think your buyers appreciate above anything else?
I don’t want the main aspect of my jewellery to be that it is recycled. For my brand, it’s about the design and the recycled silver is just a plus! Not every piece is recycled silver but the majority is. For example, the chain is not recycled because it’s not possible to obtain. I would love my jewellery to be made from ethically mined silver rather than recycled but right now, not enough is produced and I’m not even sure it is possible yet, so right now recycled is better than nothing. I do hope, however, for it to be ethically mined silver one day in the future. My fine jewellery and bespoke engagement rings are ethically mined gold and diamonds. 

You personally make one of your designs, the Studded Wrap Around ring, at your home workshop away from production, is there any particular reason as to why you chose this one to work on alone?
I don’t ever want to be separated from the making process and this is a very popular piece so it’s nice to feel involved. I also make the Michelle stacking rings and a few others. It keeps my skills up for when I make engagement rings and bespoke pieces! I hate being away from the bench and I’m constantly making new samples for collections or adding pieces to existing ones. 


Illustration by Cat Palairet

Are there any designers out there that you would compare yourself and your work to?
At this early stage in my career, (I only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year) I’m not sure I could compare myself to anyone yet! However, my favourite designer is Matthew Williamson and I like to think my jewellery matches his clothing quite well! 

 Which of your pieces are you the most fond of?
My favourite piece has to be the new skull ring that I’ve done in an exclusive collection for Urban Outfitters… it’s not out yet though so you will have to wait and see! 

What do you get up to in the spare time that you have away from designing?
I live in the Cotswolds and I love going for country walks with my boyfriend and our dog, Ace Ventura Pet Detective (Ace for short). There’s a great pub in my village called the Falcon Inn which serves amazing locally sourced food and I love sitting by the fire there. I also love to sail and surf and when my boyfriend is back from work (he’s a pilot in the RAF) we go on surf trips together. I also love going to the British Museum and the V&A

What does the future hold for Daisy Knights?
Well hopefully it holds a long and happy career. But for the immediate future keep your eyes peeled for my new Spring/Summer collection…
 Gareth A Hopkins _ Martha Tilston _ Ameliasmagazine _480dpx

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

If you’re feeling a bit delicate and would quite like to be wafted by a soft feathery fan type device, no rx as you contemplate, viagra Martha Tilston is for you. With songs entitled; Wild Swimming, Rockpools, Space and Firefly, she is all about sweet country and looking out from under the covers. But with the protection of delicate notes and kindness.

I first discovered Martha Tilston a few years ago and to be honest, I didn’t really want to tell anyone about her. She is my safety blanket and makes me feel at home. Back when she and I met, I had just left University in Cornwall and was at a loss as to what the hell to do next. My boyfriend and I moved to Bristol and temped for a hideous agency. All winter we were stuck working together inputting money off coupons for Tena Lady. Fabulous for any relationship. We’d cycle there, numb ourselves for eight hours, then cycle home. I kept a notebook by my desk and had my i pod streaming Tilston. I wrote loads in those endless, dark hours.

Then our bikes got stolen, we were laid off Tena Lady, our rented flat was put up for sale and I wrote even more. Tilston is good as a background to “Why is the world doing this to me?!” She restores faith. I give you Lucy:

Literally surrounded by art, Martha Tilston must have found it hard not be inspired as she grew up. She was born in the West Country and is the daughter of English folk singer, Steve Tilston. When her parents split, she moved to somewhere just outside London with her artist mother, who remarried a theatre director. As a teenager she would play the piano every night to the family. This led to Tilston writing songs and then picking up the guitar. Throughout she also visited Bristol, where her father and stepmother, Maggie Boyle– also a folk singer – lived. There she would spend time with folk legends like John Renbourn and Bert Jansch. Imagine! How could she not be arty?

Illustration by Karina Yarv

In 2000, she formed a duo, Mouse, with guitarist Nick Marshall. Releasing two albums, they became extremely popular with the more underground loving, festival goers. However, Tilston decided to go solo in 2002, supporting Damien Rice on a tour in Ireland. Then in 2005, she released her first full length album, Blimbling on her own label Squiggly. This album holds Brighton Song, (which is where she was living at the time) a song I adore and makes me think about my years growing up in the hills next to the coastal city. Ah – nostalgia. Bimbling was funded by selling the original canvases she had painted to provide the artwork for the CD.

Martha Bimbling

Bimbling album available on Squiggly Records – Art work by Martha Tilston

Tilston was nominated for Best New Act at the BBC Folk Awards in 2007. She has since become increasingly popular and has opened the Acoustic Stage at Glastonbury. However, she still loves impromptu and small shows. Her love of music outshining any desire for glitz. Her latest album Lucy and The Wolves, (Squiggly Records through Proper) is out now. It features her glorious band; The Woods, comprising of a host of instruments, including the mandolin, cello, violin and double bass. They truly add and compliment the atmospheric, delicate sound. Favourites include the aforementioned; Wild Swimming and Rockppols. The former, a slow, purposeful song full of delicious lust and feeling. The simile of liberating and beautiful night swimming, illustrating the purity of her love. Whilst Rockpools is also dedication to love and nature, it is centered more on her comfort found in the landscapes and nuggets of beauty. Eyes clapping on a tiny piece of peace, that at that second is shining only for you to see.

Martha Lucy and the Wolves

Lucy and The Wolves available on Squiggly Records through Proper. Art work by Martha Tilston

To summarise; Tilston is thought out, dancing on the hills, living in yurts complete with outdoor fires, English folk. If you like artists like Mary Hampton, Alela Diane and gentle Bellowhead, and you don’t know about Martha Tilston already, then you really should listen. If you don’t like folk, listen anyway, as she will make you feel wrapped up and safe on a blustery January day. Like today.

Martha Tilston‘s albums are available on Squiggly Records and she is touring in May, with dates to be released – Watch out for listings on Amelia’s Magazine.

Categories ,Alela Diane, ,Bellowhead, ,Bert Jansch, ,Bimbling, ,brighton, ,bristol, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Helen Martin, ,John Renbourn, ,Karina Yarv, ,london, ,Lucy and The Wolves, ,Maggie Boyle, ,Martha Tilston, ,mary hampton, ,Mouse, ,Proper, ,Squiggly Records, ,Steve Tilston, ,Tena Lady

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