Louis XV – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011, Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Helen)

Jena Theo Matilde Sazio Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, seek rx Illustration by Matilde Sazio

I was ushered in through the door by a geezer of a Londoner chap, sick straight through to a high heeled officious lady, then again to the very highest heels clinking their way to the front row to show me my seat. There were bags on my seat. Bags filled with goodies. Splendid. The lady next to me was bouncing her baby on her knee, as said baby was knawing on a pain au chocolat. “Nice earmuffs” I said to the tiny fashionista, pointing towards her penguin earmuffs on her head. “To protect her from the sound. It can get very loud. But she does love it here. Loves the shows.” How much do I want a chilled out, cute baby like her. Also, cool mother! I know mothers who wouldn’t take their child to Tescos for fear of its screaming the flourescently lit shed down. I looked around properly, and saw straight backed women before me. Unsmiling, with notepads on their laps and twitter at their fingertips. No one was without a smart phone. Comfortingly others were holding cameras possibly at the same level as mine, not everyone had the enormous lensed beasts. This made me feel infinitely better about my black device with sand trapped in the lens from every holiday in the last three years and glitter from an explosion of glitter at a festival last year. It makes me slightly sad to see it sprinkle on my lap when I take the lens cap off. Nostalgic particles… To the left, I felt like I was getting an immense tan however from the mad, bright white, highly lit, flashing, mini bulb, sensation. It was just INTENSE; magic eye, transfixing, blinding… The lady next to me shielded the left hand side of her face for a bit. We briefly discussed the perils of giant screens of mini light bulbs. SUCH a drag. Then it all went dark and we were treated to intro music as the anticipation was allowed to be built. Dum, dum, dum….dum… dum. EXCITED. Most of the opposite front row remained attached to the twit or without expression.

Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, Illustration by Karina Yarv

The darkness remained for a while, and I felt my heart start to beat harder. You know when as a child (/adult), at a theme park, you have just queued to get onto a ride that begins in the dark? You’re kind of scared but excited, not really sure how it will turn out? Yes, that. That was what it felt like. I was half expecting for the floor to drop and to experience a heart in my mouth sensation, as gravity stole my nerves. Child next door was heckling, all ready for the experience to begin. She’s not worried her mother assures me, as a seasoned show-goer why would she be? Well, indeed. This does not compare to my 80s Sussex upbringing. I spent being three and four devoted to my pink bomber jacket and all in one waterproof jumpsuit number. Was it the 80s? Was it me? Is there any hope? I apoligise, enough pondering! The show began.

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Photography by Matt Bramford

I was pleased to see that what was being presented was completely wearable. Definitely in London. Perhaps less so in Bristol – it was slightly ‘too’ urban for the West Country. However, if I had a choice (and el cash), some of those pieces would be getting worn in Falfael King and that secret bar we’ve been meaning to go to for a while… at least supper club. Or – ah see, I kind of want to move to London again. Don’t get the wrong impression of Briz, I beg you. Anyway digressing again- the show was very charcoal, black and cream orientated. The models all had black stripes across their eyes and otherwise bare faces. This made them look like mysterious, moody superheros. I liked it, as it really set of the simple coloured, pieces; the models all expressionless (course), their masks and the movement of the light or dark pieces worked together perfectly. It felt like we were on the sea, with norwegian heroines. Swishing slowly about, their heels never falter, their gaze exact, the path has been set and the grey skies are dappled with stars, as the storm takes hold. These strong warriors will take us with their capes flowing behind them, their hair dancing in the wind.

Jena.Theo Valkyrie by Matilde Sazio Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, Illustration by Matilde Sazio

My favourite piece was one with an almost bustling at the back, flowing down to the ground, in one swipe. The front was a mini, the back was the drama, the fantasy. I would love to wear this one standing at the front of a ship. Not a ferry, a ship. The collection; Valkyrie, refers to a band of celestial female figures who decide to die in the field of battle. So 300, in a sense, but with women. Strong, ethereal women.

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Photography by Matt Bramford

Jena.Theo have managged to combine the mythology with the urban reality. Fantasy has been embraced, with opulence in mind, the designs are sumptuous, yet strong. Fit for women going into battle with the ice of Scandinavia and the luxuriousness of a cashmere bustle behind them. And why not mix up the hemlines, paint black across our eyes and march like amazonian creations girls. We are women. Watch us gracefully, cooly and quietly move, like we believe we are mighty. We are. For designs that were indeed simple, they were deserving of their sparkling lights.
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Prophetik LFW A/W 20011 Collection illustration by Gemma Milly

A long queue waited for me outside of Freemason’s Hall. Initially I considered sauntering in through the door I first came across, pill but after peering in I discovered that in fact there was only a Vauxhall car in there and a couple of security men. Instead there was the aforementioned queue, pill just round the corner. I spotted Akeela, Katie and Sarah of Scribble fame in the line and promptly hit them all with my enormous goodie bag from Jena.Theo. As I was excitable, my accompanying movements were erratic and thus the thwacking continued until I decided to destroy the bag and had a look at the contents. Delicious. The standing and nattering continued before our coloured stickers were called forwards. I thanked Amelia power as we were marched straight in and positioned in the second row. Ooo a mini orchestra to the left.

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Prophetik LFW A/W 2011 Collection, illustration by Abby Wright

Chat for ages it seems before it all goes dark. Then a blonde bobbed lady came out and started ‘haaaa’ing. More high pitched than Enya, but similarly Lord Of The Rings magical. WHAT to expect. Well, in truth I had an idea, the press sheet announced that this was ‘Artist Wonderment’. This can only mean we are entering the fantasy land of the designer. Happily, as I read on, it would appear that Prophetik have been inspired by all the magic of the past. And I DO so love a good period drama. I quote: ‘The season exudes the freedom from the pretense of being what we would become, fleeing from egotism into the wonderment of an artist.’ Prophetik are very fond of liberty and protection of our world, through being all-sustainable. Tennessee’s Jeff Garner, who designs the fashion lifestyle brand, wants to bring an awareness of the repercussions of the clothing business, to everyone they can reach.

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Prophetik LFW A/W 20011 Collection illustration by Gemma Milly

Then violin lady, Analiza Ching came out, short skirted, her hair flicking around. Violinsts always look pretty cool I think, especially when they are jumping around, confidently using the strings to produce feisty sounds. After more hair and body kinetic energy, Miss Violinst went and joined the Benjamin Ellin orchestra. Then the models started streaming out in their Louis XV inspired outfits. With long dresses, corseted and delicate detailing. The colours were soft and the fabric consisted of ripped silks, organic velour, as well as 100 year old southern quilts, courtesy of Jeff Garner’s great grandmother, Lola. Interestingly cactus silk was also introduced, made from the agave plant. The pieces looked heavy and purposeful as they swept past. Similar to the dresses you find in fashion museums, a bit starchy and very thick. However, Prophetik‘s collection, as opposed to the historic pieces, had a woodland feel to them, connecting them to the earthy message and principles of the designer.

Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_198 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_188 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_142 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_131 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_104 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_098 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_078 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_068 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_044 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_040 Prophetik_LFW_MattBramford_024
Prophetik LFW A/W 2011 Collection, photography by Matt Bramford

“He’s grease lightning isn’t he?” The ladies behind me complained, as they were unable to get a shot of the red-headed male model on the catwalk. With his long hair slicked back, quilted buttoned up jackets and three quarter length trousers, I wished he would next come out mounted on a horse. Perhaps with one of the angel lady beings, riding side saddle and looking into the middle distance – because that’s where the magic is, clearly. The men all looked serious and officious in their luxurious outfits. Like Prince’s, they wore the natural colours with a regal air about them. I can certainly imagine some of my Hereford friends cracking out these jackets round the fire this Autumn. Residing in woods, yurts and buses, they whole heartedly are ‘woodland creatures’. Much like these, pretty imps and fairies. The Prince, the carpenter and the folk singer, sit within the trees, stars sparkling and dragonflies dancing.

There were a few dresses that I fell in love with. This included the midi length halter dress with boots – most of the outfits were worn with flat boots – I imagine for easy action in the woods. They complimented the dresses, stopping the over pretty factor. All hair was slicked to the ears and then waved, faces pale and natural. I also loved the female tailcoats, tight to the waist then full to the thigh and featuring turned up cuffs, curling at the top. All with embroidered edges and in deep, or pastel colours. Then the floor length, corseted, strapless, rich purple dress, complete with a train was divine. As was a stunning mossy green and cream empire line dress. It was a modern, eco Austen esque, Regency beauty; so graceful. The strapless and halterneck dresses were lighter than the embroidered pieces, many of which billowed in layers to the floor, and were more reminiscent of the Tudor 16th century period.

Helen Martin Prophetik
THE Prophetik DRESS. Photo by Helen Martin

I must say, the absolutely MOST fantastic dress of them ALL was a white ostrich feather creation. I want to get married and wear this ostrich BEAUTY. Like the white, angelic creation from the sky, she swept in and the whole audience gasped. I’d like to think she was saved by birds after being orphaned through the enemy’s shots. Then nurtured by the birds before she emerged, into the woods. And the woodland creatures danced in merriment, for she had been saved, and she was beautiful. Red-headed man will hopefully slow his canter to a trot, then dismount, his nonchalent stare becoming a transfixed (gruff) stare. He loved her already.

Gemma Milly and Abby Wright have their illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, available here.

Written by Helen Martin on Sunday February 20th, 2011 2:04 pm

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,ACOFI, ,Akeela, ,Amelia, ,Analiza Ching, ,Benjamin Ellin, ,eco, ,folk, ,Gemma Millie, ,Helen Martin, ,Katie Antoniou, ,lfw, ,LFW A/W 2011, ,Lola, ,Louis XV, ,marriage, ,Matt Bramford, ,Orchestra, ,planet, ,prince, ,Princess, ,Prophetik, ,Sarah Scribbles, ,sustainable, ,Tennessee, ,vauxhall, ,Violin, ,woodland creatures

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011, Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Helen)

Gemma Milly-Prophetik-A-W11
Prophetik LFW A/W 20011 Collection illustration by Gemma Milly

A long queue waited for me outside of Freemason’s Hall. Initially I considered sauntering in through the door I first came across, but after peering in I discovered that in fact there was only a Vauxhall car in there and a couple of security men. Instead there was the aforementioned queue, just round the corner. I spotted Akeela, Katie and Sarah of Scribble fame in the line and promptly hit them all with my enormous goodie bag from Jena.Theo. As I was excitable, my accompanying movements were erratic and thus the thwacking continued until I decided to destroy the bag and had a look at the contents. Delicious. The standing and nattering continued before our coloured stickers were called forwards. I thanked Amelia power as we were marched straight in and positioned in the second row. Ooo a mini orchestra to the left.

Prophetik_Abby_Wright_LFW
Prophetik LFW A/W 2011 Collection, illustration by Abby Wright

Gemma_Milly-Prophetik2-A-W11
Prophetik LFW A/W 20011 Collection illustration by Gemma Milly

Then violin lady, Analiza Ching came out, short skirted, her hair flicking around. Violinsts always look pretty cool I think, especially when they are jumping around, confidently using the strings to produce feisty sounds. After more hair and body kinetic energy, Miss Violinst went and joined the Benjamin Ellin orchestra. Then the models started streaming out in their Louis XV inspired outfits. With long dresses, corseted and delicate detailing. The colours were soft and the fabric consisted of ripped silks, organic velour, as well as 100 year old southern quilts, courtesy of Jeff Garner’s great grandmother, Lola. Interestingly cactus silk was also introduced, made from the agave plant. The pieces looked heavy and purposeful as they swept past. Similar to the dresses you find in fashion museums, a bit starchy and very thick. However, Prophetik’s collection, as opposed to the historic pieces, had a woodland feel to them, connecting them to the earthy message and principles of the designer.

Helen Martin Prophetik
THE Prophetik DRESS. Photo by Helen Martin

Gemma Milly and Abby Wright have their illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, available here.

Written by Helen Martin on Sunday February 20th, 2011 2:04 pm

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Katie)

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W Collection, search stuff illustration by Joana Faria

Initially I got stuck in the lift with a delivery man, information pills and then a very tanned lady. Apparently you are not supposed to use the lift at London Fashion Week. I don’t normally use the lift (thighs), pharmacy but to be honest, I was unsure as to how to get to the Portico Rooms, where Orla Kiely was showing her short films, and there was an arrow towards the lift. Anyway, tanned lady assisted me in getting in and consequently missed her lift and was forced to take the stairs. She was lovely. I entered the little room to find three sheds, twig trees, pretty stools, lots of stuffed birds (real?) and strange bird/nature music, wafting.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W 2011, illusration by Matilde Sazio

I wish I could say that I wafted around the room, and I tried to put be exhibition faced, but I had to move around people, twigs in my hair and face and then birds – just there. *SQUAWK* Perhaps now would be the time to say I am scared of birds.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W 2011, illustration by Avril Kelly

A dyed, dark haired boy with a strong side parting came up to me, straight backed and carrying a tray of champagne. Luckily for him the tray had little grooves so the stems came out the bottom to avoid spillage. Sadly for me, I couldn’t see how to access le bubbly. “How do I… ah, thanks”. I clutched my champagne at its stem. Although I saw most people holding their glasses around the fatter bit. I was told this was wrong to do by a man at a ‘ra’ party when I was 15. I also thought this was wrong/bad etiquette/heats liquid with hand warmth? But it does look better, holding champs at the fatter bit…rearrange hand. I smiled at a lady who had a few people round her and was smiling in my direction. She saw me though, and it vanished. Denied! I later heard her say she was the Editor of a Homes magazine and she got her photo taken amongst the twig trees. My time at BBC Homes and Antiques, as an intern, came rushing back to me.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W 2011, illusration by Matilde Sazio

I meandered about. LOVED the girls in Orla Kiely outfits, plastered to the walls. Although Orla Kiely heavily reminds me of women in Clifton (affluent part of Bristol), and Bath, sauntering about, I think her designs look excellent on younger women. With 60s influences, and pretty detailing, they’re perfect and easy to wear creations, that are FAR from some of preconceived ideas. Most of the aforementioned women only ever really wear the bags, to be fair. And to see the full outfits, with the pretty shoes, natural colours and high hemlines, I was in lust with Orla! Less the birds.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W Collection, illustration by Joana Faria

I had a little chat with the champagne boy, as I had no chance of speaking to Ms Editor, she wouldn’t appreciate one of my own designed business cards (they’re amazing). He said the films had been on rotation since 7am, which is fiiiine, but the soundtrack (i.e. birds), was a tad repetitive. We discussed our day. He asked if I was in ‘the business’. I replied: “Mmmm, writer.” I felt bad for not asking him if he was in the business, but as I sat on an Orla bench, decided that he was a poet who had escaped Burnley.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W 2011, illustration by Avril Kelly

I saw that the films were being shown in the sheds. I considered leaning on the side of the shed, as no one seemed to be sitting inside them. But instead decided to sit inside, on a stool, in the shed. It felt like one of those watch places you find on walks. Then: ARG!! A MASSIVE stuffed OWL was looking straight at me. Out the shed.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W Collection, illustration by Joana Faria

The video was purposefully flickery and sweet, with the models in greens and creams, wandering about their vintage filled houses. I won’t lie; I wanted the house/clothes dearly. They looked so contented, slightly robotic, but perfect.

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Orla Kiely LFW A/W 2011, photography by Amelia Gregory

It seems that lighter, floatier fabrics took hold for Orla Kiely’s S/S 2011 collection, as Orla said: For ready-to-wear, there is silk organza mesh partywear; sheer fabrics have played a large part in the collection. Some prints also have abstract references to apples and pears. Within bags and accessories, I have designed leather backpacks and my debut sunglasses range.” But, heavier fabrics have returned for A/W, with beautiful, thick coats, short, wool dresses and A Line skirts, knitted skirt suits and 70s influenced belted loose jersey dresses and bell sleeves. All worn with black socks and ankle strapped shoes. Thick knit long cardigans or 60s trenches also feature, whilst the make up is subtle, allowing the deep teals, greens and light browns to take the focus. And of course promoting the simple, pretty, easy to wear, natural style of Orla Kiely.

I was transfixed by the video for a little while – the music was quite liable to do this – and then, although tempted to sit and drink more champagne on a pretty stool, I wandered off out the correct door.

Joana Faria’s Illustrations can also be found in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, available here.

Illustrations by Ankolie.

Even the invitation to this show had me excited; detail of a vintage toile print on a fabric corset lined with vintage style brass buttons and the byline ‘inspired by the court of Louis XV when art became frivolous’ grabbed my attention. Because all of this is frivolous, visit web isn’t it? We’re in the middle of a recession and yet here we are, still feeding are obsession with fashion and art because it has become such an integral part of our lives. Combining fashion and music is a big part of my job as a stylist to musicians, so opening the show with Analize Ching on the violin was a big hit with me, followed by wonderful orchestral music that evoked the atmosphere of a French royal court.

I’d been a little underwhelmed by a lot of very drab Autumn/Winter collections, where hues vary only from black,to greys, some cream and back to black. The colours Prophetik used are all natural, with plum shades blended from madder root, rumex, logwood and indigo, and burgundy mixed from madder root, curled dock and gallnut. Adding yet more splashes of colour and prints were the quilted pieces, handed down from Jeff’s grandmother Lola from Tennesse. Hemp, cactus silk and ostrich feathers provided stunning texture and shape to the pieces. Accessories label ‘Dotted Loop’ provided reworked vintage accessories and even the shoes were made from vegetable-tanned leather.

It’s rare that I can get at all excited by menswear, but the pieces in this collection spoke to the avid period-drama fan inside me. Military inspired jackets and riding boots? Phwoar. Yes please. Jeff himself appeared at the end showing how the look can be worked, though I’m sure he could probably get a way with wearing pretty much anything and still look like he just finished writing poetry/surfing/horse-riding; all listed as his hobbies. Only someone this comfortable with his masculinity could design coats for men made out of pastel pink quilts.

Corsets, tailored jackets and voluminous skirts; Jeff is very good at designing clothes for real women’s bodies. He recently dressed the lovely Livia Firth for the 2011 Golden Globes, and I can only imagine that his celebrity following will continue to increase. The final dress, ‘Mrs Moulton’ features ostrich feathers that shed naturally twice a year (from the ostrich, not the dress-that would be a high maintenance frock indeed) hand sewn on white silk and organza – I can totally picture this as a celebrity wedding dress. Watch this space.

I’ll leave you with Jeff’s take on Renaissance Art. I think it’s very interesting considering our current pre-occupation with all things vintage:

‘Renaissance art is not a rebirth as one implies, but freedom from the past. Unconcerned with what has been said or done, living in the present with an immediate relation to all things…achievement does not birth beauty but raw effort confessing its own failures and in the confession is the beauty of Art.’

All photography by Katie Antoniou.

Written by Katie Antoniou on Monday February 21st, 2011 2:49 pm

Categories ,Ankolie, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Jeff Garner, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2011, ,Louis XV, ,Prophetik, ,renaissance

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Matt)

Illustration by Antonia Parker

The On|Off venue this year isn’t the best, medicine sale I have to say. Located at Mercer Street Studios, medicine it’s absolutely tiny, information pills roasting hot and there are fewer seats than usual. Having been awarded an invitation with an orange sticker on, mind, I was ushered to the front and glamourously made my way inside. I don’t know if I’m just getting on a bit, but there seems to be a helluva lot of people at fashion week this season. For this, the Jena.Theo show, the room was full to bursting (I’m not sure what the HSE would have to say about some of the goings on in these pokey venues) but this design duo thoroughly deserve the mass attention they are getting.

‘Hilary’s here! Hilary’s here!’ began the whispers, and a gap on the front row, directly across the aisle from me, was created. At fashion week it could only be one Hilary they were so frantically trying to seat – our Hilary Alexander, who looked gorgeous in a feather-trimmed top. As the show was about to start, a tiny photographer with a lens the length of my arm positioned himself on the floor, right in my shot, between me and Hils. I was livid. I asked him politely to move the hell out of my way (another trend this season…) but he failed to take any notice. Sigh.

Look, here he is:

Despite moaning about the venue being tiny, I do adore the addition of an enormous screen at the back of the catwalk, which made for stark and interesting photographs and emphasised the pieces – a wondrous addition here with Jena.Theo’s exaggerated silhouettes.

On with the show, and extremely tall models emerged wearing all sorts of sculptural shapes. I really like Jena.Theo’s aesthetic – it’s contemporary (futuristic, even) but also wearable for the fashion-forward woman. The models really stood out in-front of the blinding LED screen; curved silhouettes had a Japanese influence with enormous sleeves and garments that gave out at the waist.

There was a definite unfinished aesthetic at play – ma, maybe, like the great Japanese couturiers. Hems were raw and luxurious silks were layered on top of each other. There wasn’t much in the way of colour – a splash of denim for an over-sized cape was a welcome break from this pretty much all black collection, but I guess that’s Jena.Theo’s style.

Illustration by Antonia Parker

I especially enjoyed the additions of leather, particularly on one patchwork piece that I’ve since deemed my fave. Black stripes across models faces added a sinister twist, but flattering shapes that emphasised curves and bare flesh allowed this collection to remain sexy and sophisticated. Capes were like sexed-up graduation gowns, while a huge padded jacket would sit happily in a Yohji Yamamoto exhibition.

A fantastic outing for this twosome, I can’t wait to see what direction they take all this in. I’m now off to drink the Chambord from the goody bag and smother myself in Elemis for ladies (I’m actually not, I’m off to another show, I just wanted to give them a plug).

Also got slightly distracted by what Dame Hilary might have been scribbling, so took a few cheeky shots of her notebook…

Illustration by Yelena Bryksenkova

The first time I saw Prophetik, buy information pills I just didn’t get it. It was Jeff Garner’s debut show, medications and I had come straight from some kind of Hannah-Marshall-if-it-aint-leather-and-black-it-aint-going-in show, pharm and I just couldn’t handle Prophetik’s pretty aesthetic. I’m pleased to say I’ve since changed my mind, and after researching Jeff’s label and reading about him in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, I couldn’t wait to see what he’d come up with this season – romantically titled ‘Artistic Wonderment’.

It was so lovely to see our ACOFI pals from Forward PR on the way in looking all professional (the last time I saw them, Laura was throwing shapes behind the bar and Nick was dancing with the wall). I was seated next to the owner of a boutique whose name I cannot remember, but who had an adorable baby on her lap who, at eight months, is apparently already into fashion. I think they gage the little one’s reaction on whether she cries or smiles (I do the same myself) and I’m happy to announce that said baby smiled with glee through the entire show – encouraged by the beautiful sounds of Benjamin Ellin‘s orchestra.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

The room at Fashion Scout was packed, due in part I guess to the attention Jeff received for designing Livia Firth’s stunning Golden Globe gown as part of her ‘Green Carpet Challenge’. The beautiful Peace Silk floor-length dress evoked romance and elegance, two characteristics that have become Prophetik’s signature.

This season, Jeff’s been inspired by the court of Louis XV, when art became frivolous and dressing became romantic. An enormous collection featured gorgeous ripped silks and organic velours, as well as 100 year old quilts, transformed into men’s blazers and worked into dresses, handed down by Jeff’s own great grandmother Lola from Tennessee.

Acclaimed violinist Analiza Ching set the show in motion, frantically playing as she strutted up the catwalk to join the rest of the orchestra. Traditional dress shapes were transformed with said patchwork elements, low cut at the front and some models bearing flesh while other long-sleeved corseted numbers were influenced by Elizabethan dress. Pale models with metres of hair appeared one after the other in a earth-based colour palette of oatmeal, violet and burgundy, and the women bunched their dresses up at the front as they walked in that maiden-like way.

Illustration by Yelena Bryksenkova

The show-stopper at the end was an incredible all-white number (I can see potential brides fawning over this one) with hand-sewn ostrich feathers abundantly attached onto white organza layers. My other faves were a sweeping number in pinstripe heavy fabric, with a corseted top and a frou frou trim; a cropped corset with military elements, blouson sleeves and stiff Baroque cuffs, teamed with a bunched hemp skirt; and the men’s patchwork jacket (apparently made from Jeff’s own bedspread as a child) finished with gold jewellery and a pocket watch.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

LOVED the shoes, darlings: a collaboration with LA sustainable shoe label CYDWOQ; gorgeous vegetable-tanned leather pointy numbers.

Jeff’s aesthetic sits side by side with his sustainable ethos – it’s earthy, romantic and never boring. I’m not entirely sure that I’ll be wearing a floor-length patchwork jacket with gold buttons come Autumn, but much gratitude to hunky Jeff for bringing a bit of fantasy and fairy tale to this week of shows.