Amelia’s Magazine | Kingston University: Graduate Fashion Week 2014 Catwalk Review

GraduateCollection_StefanieTschirky-4
Graduate Collection by Stefanie Tschirky

It was a predictably brilliant outing for Kingston on Monday at this year’s Graduate Fashion Week. Finally the organisers have had some sense and clocked that the Earl’s Court Two venue, home to the event for a number of years, doesn’t do this showcase of the next generation of fashion designers any favours. Relocated at the Truman Brewery, home of numerous other graduate shows, Graduate Fashion Week felt more current, more exciting and a damn sight bloody easier to get to.

Having said that, and as per usual, I hadn’t been particularly organised in the run up to the event and the only ticket I’d managed to get hold of was for Kingston‘s presentation, thanks to some on-it staff who go to the trouble of inviting you rather than waiting for you to email. Drinks and canapés were served across the road in Corbet’s Place, a bar I try to avoid on account of it being at the heart of the misery that is Brick Lane at weekends. I left there precisely one hour later, blind drunk and stuffed full of duck tagine and chicken skewers. Even if the show itself had been terrible, which it definitely wasn’t, I wouldn’t say a bad word about Kingston.

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_003LaurenLake

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_006LaurenLake

All photography by Matt Bramford

It was down to Lauren Lake (above) to launch the show, with a fresh approach to outerwear. Pale pink coats with fur trims were teamed with hot pink accessories and it set a heady, exciting tone to the proceedings as the booze started to wear off.

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_018MariaBarreto

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_028MariaBarreto

Luckily Maria Barreto (above) was awarded the job of following, doing it in style with a collection of sharp tailored coats and dresses in a more serious, sophisticated palette of blue and black.

Karen Verey 01
Graduate Collection by Karen Verey

Karen Varey was first up representing menswear, with a mixture of sportwear and tailoring. Unique, shiny jackets had embroidered floral details.

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_034KarenVerey

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_042KarenVerey

Not dissimilar was Merle Ingram‘s approach to womenswear, making use of futuristic materials, like the plastic jacket with zip detail. Abstract shapes were brought together in pale-coloured separates:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_047MerleIngrama

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_051MerleIngram

Stefanie Tschirky also worked with glossy fabrics, but in a strong palette of black and blue – pencil skirts and wide-leg trousers were teamed with oversized jackets:

GraduateCollection_StefanieTschirky-4
Graduate Collection by Stefanie Tschirky

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_068StefanieTschirky

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_066StefanieTschirky

Jasmine Sellers‘ models were enveloped in soft materials, in beige and salmon:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_094JasmineSellers

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_101JasmineSellers

Tamsin Pick‘s menswear was fresh and unique, with majestic colours, sportswear shapes and towelling details:

collectionlineupflat

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_103TamsinPick

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_115TamsinPick

Abigail Irving-Munro‘s womenswear also used sports elements like varsity jackets and zip hoodies, jazzed up with all sorts of embellishments, like contrasting knits and unfinished strips:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_120AbigailIrvingMunroe

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_127AbigailIrvingMunroe

More menswear came courtesy of Catriona Outram; vibrant sketchy patterns were combined with heavy knitwear, while models wore iPad necklaces:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_166CatrionaOutram

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_177CatrionaOutram

Kanrawee line up
Graduate collection by Kanrawee Vechiboonsom

Kanrawee Vechiboonsom presented a sophisticated collection of striking blue and white separates, one featuring an intricate concertina design:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_194KanraweeVechiboonsom

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_197KanraweeVechiboonsom

Maria Brimelow‘s Scandinivian-inspired collection of elongated coats and cardigans drew loud whoops; I particularly like the knotted orange number:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_272MariaBrimelow

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_263MariaBrimelow

Meanwhile, Susanne Wen‘s truly unique collection featured pleated fabrics stitched together in a haphazard fashion:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_276SusanneWen

My favourite collection of Kingston’s outing was without doubt Hannah Cawley. Voluminous silhouettes featured orange and black prints with silver buckle fastening details. Oversized clutch bags in these rich, loud patterns completed the looks:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_285HannahCawley

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_287HannahCawley

Closing menswear was left in the hands of Isabelle Sallis, showing vibrant green prints and a sinister hooded figure:

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_301IsabelleSallis

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_302IsabelleSallis

And finally, Phoebe Kowalska closed this stunning show with an ethereal, Comme des Garçons-esque collection of long dresses with multiple panels.

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_331PhoebeKowalska

MattBramford_GraduateFashionWeek_Kingston_339PhoebeKowalska

Until next year, Kingston!

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Categories ,2014, ,Abigail Irving-Munro, ,BA, ,Catriona Outram, ,catwalk, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Cawley, ,Isabelle Sallis, ,Jasmine Sellers, ,Kanrawee Vechiboonsom, ,Karen Verey, ,Kingston, ,Lauren Lake, ,Maria Barreto, ,Maria Brimelow, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merle Ingram, ,review, ,Stefanie Tschirky, ,Susanne Wen, ,Tamsin Pick, ,Truman Brewery

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Show Gala Show 2014 Review

Holly Jayne Smith by Sine Skau

Holly Jayne Smith by Sine Skau.

I have been attending Graduate Fashion Week for six years now and every year I wonder how such young designers manage to be so creative. Once again the final 25 collections showcased in last week’s Gala Show were truly outstanding and revealed a wide range of talent to watch. The night began on a poignant note with a moment’s thought for the late Louise Wilson, the formidable Central Saint Martins tutor who was integral in the training of luminaries such as Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou. Here’s hoping that one of these finalists and winners goes on to as much success.

GFW Aimee Dunn by Gareth A Hopkins

Aimee Dunn by Gareth A Hopkins.

GFW Menswear Award: Aimee Dunn – Nottingham Trent University
I know it’s menswear but who doesn’t love stealing their boyfriends clothes? Dunn’s collection of monochrome looks were superbly put together and with Thatcher on the front of a jumper you’re never going to avoid attention. Dunn also picked up the Menswear award at the end of the evening – well deserved.

Grace Weller GFW 2014 Bath Spa Uiversity by Jenny Robins

Grace Weller by Jenny Robins.

Grace Weller by  Julie J Seo

Grace Weller by Julie J.Seo.

George Gold Award winner and GFW Womenswear Award: Grace Weller – Bath Spa University
The embroidery and workmanship that had gone into Grace’s beautiful collection of Erdem-esque floral and sheer dresses was astounding. Not only did Grace pick up the Womenswear Award but she walked away with the £10,000 Gold Award to kick start her label.

Rebecca Rimmer by Vicky Scott
Rebecca Rimmer by Vicky Scott.

Rebecca Rimmer – UCLAN
Brightly coloured clothes painted onto bigger clothes. Sounds ridiculous, works really well on the catwalk, as Rebecca Rimmer proved. Her cartoonish collection was fun and original as well as having a high impact on the audience as it closed the show.

Holly Jayne Smith by Hye Jin Chung_2

Holly Jayne Smith by Hye Jin Chung.

Holly Jayne Smith by Sine Skau

Holly Jayne Smith by Sine Skau.

Holly Jayne Smith – Birmingham City
Foot-high hats and a pop art colour palette ensured this collection caught our attention and made us rethink light blue as a staple. The models also carried co-ordinated bright sports back packs which I loved.

GFW Shan Liao Huang by Gareth A Hopkins

GFW International Winner: Shan Liao Huang by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lauren Lake – Kingston University
Coloured fur made its mark last season and Lauren Lake’s first model strode out in a huge over sized, pink fur-lined shearling coat, so it was always going to be a winner. The silver metallic skirts and block boots, pink PVC and top knots ticked all the boxes, just amazing.

Colleen Leitch – Edinburgh College of Art
80’s glamour is back in Colleen Leitch’s collection of exquisite looks brought together by scattered sequins and dark colours in draping fabrics clinched at the waist for maximum femininity.

HANNAH DONKIN BY JANE YOUNG

Hannah Donkin by Jane Young.

GFW Creative Catwalk Award: Camilla Grimes – Manchester School of Art
Pink fur again, hopefully not real, (trend alert!) but this time alongside a more delicate and feminine ensemble that had hints of Jonathan Saunders about it (never a bad thing). Sheer embroidered shirts and a hooded bomber jacket were just two of the items I want in my wardrobe.

Fashion graduates of 2015, I can’t wait to see what you’ll have in store!

Categories ,2014, ,Aimee Dunn, ,Bath Spa University, ,Birmingham City University, ,Camilla Grimes, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Kane, ,Colleen Leitch, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Gala Show, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Grace Weller, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Donkin, ,Holly Jayne Smith, ,Hye Jin Chung, ,Jane Young, ,Jenny Robins, ,Jonathan Saunders, ,Julie J Seo, ,Kingston University, ,Lauren Lake, ,Louise Wilson, ,Manchester School of Art, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Rebecca Rimmer, ,review, ,Shan Liao Huang, ,Sine Skau, ,Truman Brewery, ,UCLan, ,Vicky Scott

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