Amelia’s Magazine | Hobbs AW10 Fashion Collection Press Day Preview

Hobbs-Press Day AW2010

Now, page I don’t normally write blogs about high street clothes shops. But I’m gonna break my rule this time. Earlier this week I went along to the Hobbs press day in their flagship store in Covent Garden – basically just because I was invited and I’ve never been to one of their press days before. I had absolutely no expectations of it, drug since I’ve rarely set foot inside a Hobbs store since I developed a bit of a Bertie shoe fetish in my teen years (the late 80s if you must know). Bertie was once associated with the Hobbs brand, but I’m not sure if it is anymore.

Hobbs-Press Day AW2010

I managed to sashay confidently past the girl on the door girl, “where did you say you were from?” said she, eyeing up my haphazard approach to dressing with curiosity. Then I manoeuvred myself away from what promised to be a lengthy guided tour through each garment in the collection, nearly sending a mannequin crashing in my eagerness to reach the back of the room. And, I was how shall we say it… pleasantly surprised. Straight away I made a beeline for a lovely gold pine cone necklace, taking in the general fruity folk colours of the NW3 collection. Accessories are one of Hobbs’ strongpoints and there was a nice display of cute jewellery and coloured patent bags.

Hobbs-Press Day AW2010
Hobbs-Press Day AW2010

But I was anxious not to waste too much time, so when one of the immaculate PR ladies glided over (I always feel like a bedraggled mess by comparison) I quickly explained that I was only looking for either designer led collaborations or ethical ranges. AHA! She led me towards a young man, standing in front of a rail and eager to pounce on journalists. I was introduced; this was Dean Thomas, designer of the high end Artisan collection, which sources all of its materials and is manufactured within the UK.

Hobbs-Press Day 2010-Dean Thomas
Hobbs-Press Day 2010-Dean Thomas
Dean Thomas describes the Artisan collection.

Dean was chosen straight out of Central Saint Martins precisely because he found all the materials for his final collection from within a 50 mile radius of his home town in Somerset. He held up a few pieces from the AW10 collection for me and I have to say, it was absolutely gorgeous. He’s created a stunning pleated evening dress out of the most unlikely of materials: a waxed cotton similar to the type that gets used in Barbour jackets. Then there’s a lovely stripy mohair coat and a super long evening dress with an elegant train. All the wool comes from Jacob sheep in Scotland and a pretty print was manipulated digitally from a photo of virulent purple Scotts thistles. I was pretty impressed I tells thee. Apparently in 2008 Hobbs was given a good shake up with the appointment of Sandy Vernon as creative director (she used to work at Next and Jaeger), and if this is what she’s doing then she’s onto a winner.

Hobbs-Press Day AW2010
Hobbs-Press Day AW2010

I then got pulled over to meet Karen Boyd, formerly of Boyd & Storey, and shown through her domain; the Limited Edition collection. She too has moved over from Jaeger, where her trademark style – elegant tailoring mixed with feminine details such as faux embroidered prints and little lace collars – was given credit for turning around the once fusty label. This collection is beautiful too, but sadly only the goat skins used in the long haired cape are sourced locally. “They’re a by-product of the meat industry, we don’t use fur.” Most of the clothes are of course made in the far east. As, no doubt, is the pine cone necklace that I had so admired earlier, but I was nevertheless a super happy bunny to discover the very same necklace in my press goodie bag. Comfortingly heavy, it’s been living around my neck ever since, a rare accolade.

Hobbs-Press Day AW2010
Hobbs-Press Day 2010-Karen Boyd
Karen Boyd talks me through the Limited Edition collection.

All in all I left pleasantly surprised. I think it is to be applauded when a large high street retailer such as Hobbs is confident enough to produce a whole range of beautifully made clothes in the UK, at a price point that will still be affordable to many (if not me). Now if only more retailers were to sit up and take note.

Categories ,Artisan, ,Barbour, ,Bertie, ,Boyd & Storey, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Dean Thomas, ,Hobbs, ,Jacob Sheep, ,Jaeger, ,Karen Boyd, ,Limited Edition, ,Local, ,Next, ,Press Day, ,Press Gift, ,Sandy Vernon, ,scotland, ,wool

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran Interview

Bernard Chandran - London Fashion Week SS 2010

Bernard Chandran’s innovative attitude to fashion design has produced two stellar collections for London Fashion Week: AW09 and SS10. Recently Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of interviewing Bernard -via email-on his creative inspiration after the dust storm of London Fashion Week 09 settled.

What inspired you to become a fashion designer?

I am a creative person and even when young I admired the window display of the fashion boutiques. I was convinced after watching ‘fashion TV’ about designers and how they can influence the world through their passion and design that fashion was for me. Of course I had to convince my dad, cure which was not at all easy, being a traditional dad who wanted me to pursue accounting or at least law. Hence I told him that I could make lots of money!

Bernard Chandran - London Fashion Week SS 2010

What was the inspiration behind the AW09 and SS10 collections?

The AW09 inspiration was drawn very much from the weather, especially the rain, which is an essential element in the weather forecast in the East. Whilst rain is often depicted with moody, cloudy weather, somehow the collection has no indication of the conventional; instead there is somewhat a kind of upbeat enthusiasm, edgy yet supremacy about the designs. The overall design is daring and structural. Oversized “umbrella structure” can be seen at the shoulder top and hips in some of the designs. The tailored volume gives the collection an edge. Straight slim cut trousers were worn with structured double breasted coats.

As for my SS2010 collection, my roots and origins become my inspiration, where I have bridged a lot of elements from the oriental palace to the fashion runway. I also injected the collection with a type futuristic sophistication and unlocked the traditional to the modern.

Bernard Chandran - London Fashion Week SS 2010

How was London Fashion Week 09? Did you enjoy the new setting of 180 the Strand?

I love the energy, the enthusiasm and the celebrative spirit. The new setting at the Strand was great. Happy 25th Birthday British Fashion Council!

S/S 2010 featured a variety of sculptural pieces from the face-masks to the bustiers – what was the inspiration behind these pieces?

I travel and of late I saw numerous people wearing masks, especially at airports. Hence I decided to make them a little more glamorous. It is also my way of paying tribute to Michael Jackson whom I think was always at the forefront of fashion with his daring outfits!

Bernard Chandran - London Fashion Week SS 2010

From where did the geometric prints and structured tailored pieces develop from?

The geometric prints inspiration came from my kitchen! This round we produced our own prints. Due to the lantern festival, I used lantern inspired design. As you can see some of them have an envelope shape, which is very much like the lanterns.

How was your experience on studying fashion? What was your favourite item designed whilst at University?

It was truly awesome. My favourite design item has to be the interesting sleeve that I developed. I spent two weeks, perfecting the cut and the shape to the specs that I wanted

Bernard Chandran - London Fashion Week SS 2010

What are your favourite piece you have designed recently?

All my collections are like my babies. My most meaningful is Look 22 from my SS2010, as we have gone through much to develop a new technique and finally to achieve the results we wanted.

What is next for Bernard Chandran?

Stay tuned. It will be interesting for my next fashion presentation.

We’ll be watching!

Categories ,AW09, ,Bernard Chandran, ,Blow PR, ,british fashion council, ,Fashion TV, ,Lanterns, ,London Fashion Week, ,SS10, ,weather

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