After witnessing a whole lot of jolly sensible fashion trends being bandied about – think short, visit this generic sleek, stomach unhealthy sophisticated and feminine – we were thrilled to see a total vision of insanity at the Blow Presents… show where the models were barely human, NEVER MIND feminine. Ladies and gents, meet the new woman of 2010: the Fembot.
Wigmaker Charlie le Mindu’s collection made Danielle Scutt’s hairstyling look positively placid: models were bombing down the catwalking with “haute coiffure” teetering atop their tiny heads, like a warped modern paraphrase of 18th century wigs.
Squeezed into flesh-coloured PVC bodysuits, these were pneumatic bodies that resembled genetically mutated Barbies, with the hairpieces swelling into jackets (bearing a strong resemblance to Margiela’s two seasons ago) or even shoulder pads, evidently a trend that translates into the most avant-garde of arenas.
Next up was Gemma Slack’s collection with pieces constructed from leather and suede, it was a bold collection that turned the models into superheroes and warriors, with the conical bras making another resurgence as seen with Louise Goldin’s latest offering.
The inclusion metal studs and slashed leather also made it profoundly sexual – with the oppressive metal-plated umbrella and circular skirts mechanising the body, a territory previously explored, of course, by Hussein Chalayan. Unlike Chalayan this mechanisation was also sexualised, with the constant sado-masochistic details (even the traditional Burmese neck rings looked more like dog collars) in line with uncomfortable images of fetishised modernity that J.G Ballard expressed in Crash.
Margiela reared his head again with Lina Osterman, in a show styled by Robbie Spencer, who by masking her models also evinced a preoccupation and an evocation of Victoriana repression by playing with the effects of concealing the face and the body. A difference so far for a series of shows that has been all about long, bare legs.
A completely androgynous collection, there were undertaker-style long tailored jackets paired with trousers and shorts, with Osterman manifesting the Victorian secret obsession with sex, like Slack, with bondage-like details and choices in fabric. Lurking underneath all the bravado, however, was a surprisingly soft and wearable collection, with some fabulous knits and grandpa shirts both for the boys and the girls.
Finally upping the drama stakes was Iris van Herpen, with a slow and intense collection of sculpted leather and rubber – heavy and cumbersome pieces that were inspired by radiation waves around the body, results of collaboration with artist Bart Hess.
Proving a fantastic metaphor as a means of highlighting parts of the human body, this was true craftsmanship, with sequins and reflective panels catching the catwalk lights – as the models lined up together for the final few moments they seemed like soldiers with armour constructed from artwork.
A rather fascinating foursome on show, then, and at least Lady GaGa will have some new things to wear with those big pants of hers – well until next season anyway.
Cooperative Designs presented their latest designs aboard a Bauhaus Chessboard and on entering the presentation hall I was greeted with delicious looking (and tasting) Bauhaus birthday cake. The collection titled Happy Birthday Bauhaus was a homage to a constant source of inspiration (Bauhaus and Russian Constructivism) and the only female to become a master at the school: Gunta Stolz and her 5 Chord Weave.
The display was a feast for the eyes, viagra 60mg as the garments and dressmaker dummies found themselves positioned across the black and white squares encouraging the viewer to walk freely around the set and in-between the brilliant knitwear.
The board was also interjected with giant cardboard pieces and props or pawns from Amy Gwatkin‘s elegant film projected onto the space behind the game. Filmed through prisms, visit the film portrays the delicate fluid movements, sick the bold lines and clever tailoring of Co-operative’s designs as Rahma Mohamed dreamily paraded across the presentation hall (filmed in the same room, the moving lookbook acted as an extension to the space).
The static presentation enables the viewer the opportunity to be up close and personal with the clothes, to view the extensive variety of fabric used in construction. I enjoyed being able to carefully consider the patterns adorning large hanging pieces and the distinctive body conscience garments. Whilst the film portrayed how the clothes would move when adorning the human body complimented by the bold jewellery.
Several people became statuesque through their bodies occupying a variety of past season’s designs, displaying the constant craftsmanship of the design duo: Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann. the collection is instantly desirable from the exquisite knitwear combining “wild silks, paper cotton and linen yards” to the jewerelly designed by Corrie Williamson and the shoes made in collaboration with Daniel Harrison.
The entire ethos of the show was Bauhaus and it’s ideas on the importance of experiment through collaboration; from the film to the set designed by alex Cunningham to the shoe and jewellery collection.
I could have stayed in the room all day, visually digesting the block colours peeking amongst the patterns. Whilst examining the construction of sleeves that hung from the manikin at right angles as if an invisible elbow occupied the negative space.
Watch the film here:
All Photographs by Matt Bramford
Explore the mindset of protest movements, website like this learn from previous campaigns and make your own affinity group, side effects this week is all about getting ready for action, page wether it be at the Climate Swoop in October or campaigning against your local Tesco.
Illustrations by Sinead O Leary
Global Wake-Up Call
Monday 21st September
A flash mob extravaganza, on the 21st of September people will be gathering at hundreds of locations around the world. It’s an opportunity to vent your frustration against the government’s lack of initiatives towards climate change and to raise awareness of the issue. Check all the events all ready happening on the website or alternatively set up your own
and register it online. Avaaz and partners will help turn out a group of fellow-citizens to participate in each event, and send you all the information you need. Remember Global leaders have only three months to get their act together and sign a strong Climate Treaty in Copenhagen.
Tourism and climate change
Tuesday 22nd September
An event to look at the problems relating to the tourism Industry and the threat of climate change. What can be done to lessen the impacts from the Industry which sees huge amounts of carbon dioxide let into the atmosphere each year. The rise of short haul flights in the UK will be discussed as well as the future threat to people and communities across the globe that
rely on tourism for their livelihood at home and abroad.
Time: 18.30 until 21.00
Venue: Royal Geographical Society (with IBG), 1 Kensington Gore, London,
Picnic to Stop Tesco
Tuesday 22nd September
A protest picnic at the proposed site for a new Tesco, just behind the current Tesco car park, I presume after taking over all the local businesses they need some more expansion. Bring food, friends and ideas to stop the plans from going ahead.
Venue: Titnore Woods
Time: Meet 12 noon, then move to the field.
Chronicle of a Road Protest
Wednesday 23rd September
The legacy of the road protest movement lives on, Adrian Arbib will be holding a talk and presentation from his experience in 1994 at camps set up in Solsbury Hill, where ‘eco warriors’ launched a bid to halt construction of the Batheaston to Swainswick bypass at Bath. The campaign was also credited for boosting numerous other activists to set up similar
camps against road building projects which eventually led to 300 road schemes being axed by the government.
Adrian Arbib lived on site photographing the events. In so doing he captured all aspects of life on the protest, a talk that is sure to inspire and educate the next generation of protest movements.
Time: 7pm till 9pm
Venue: Housmans Bookshop, 5 Caledonian Road, London N1 9DX
RSA debate: Food in a World Without Oil
Wednesday 23rd September
Hosted by Roger Harrabin, BBC Environmental Analyst, the debate will look at the politics of food and farming, and the consumers carbon footprint. The UK Government has signed up to a target to reduce our emissions by 80% by 2050 but so far hasn’t addressed the problem of the food and farming issue.
With oil running out the panel will also discuss what the implications of this are on the industry, joined by Peter Melchett, Policy Director at the Soil Association; Tim Lang, Professor of Food Policy, City University London the audience will also hear about some solutions such as Transition Towns and possible controversial methods like GM crops.
Free entrance, but places need to be booked
Venue: John Adam Street, London WC2N 6EZ
Landscapes of the Mind
Friday 25th- Sunday 27th September
One of the biggest threat to climate action is peoples lack of belief that anything can be done, how many times have you heard the phrase “but what can i do?” With the ‘tipping point’ just around the corner, where climate change will have irreversible effect on the planet, why is there such a lack of conviction in the world? Landscape of the mind, a conference held at the Eden project, will focus on this issue, along with a panel of experts and commentators. It will look at our awareness of nature and our mental health in relation to it. A fascinating weekend long set of talks and workshops chaired by Professor David Peters and Nick Totton which challenges one of the biggest challenges we face in the modern world.
Venue: The Eden project
The Incredible Veggie Roadshow
Saturday 26th September
A chance to learn everything you ever wanted to know about being a veggie or a vegan, the day is a great day out for the family with loads of stalls, food tasting, cooking demonstrations as well as a range of books, information and campaign news.
Venue: Town Hall, Cheltenham
The Great Climate Swoop Affinity Group Speed
Saturday 26th September
The climate swoop is almost upon us, in only a few weeks groups like Plane Stupid, Rising Tide and Climate Rush are going to take over Ratcliffe on Soar, a coal fired power station.
This event is for people to meet up with other like-minded souls who are planning to go to Ratcliffe in October. It will also host some inspiring speakers for people that may need some convincing. Speakers will include one of the Drax 29, a Great Climate Swooper and an expert on the history of direct action.
The day is for all experience levels of direct action, from newbies to road protesting veterans. Hopefully you will finish the day with your new affinity group, with a workshop that explains the roles within an affinity group and how you can achieve your aims on your action.
FrYars is winsome 19 year old, Ben Garret – and all-round Amelia’s Magazine favourite – who makes synth-drenched compositions of a Patrick Wolf-come-Pet Shop Boys ilk. We have his debut album, Dark Young Hearts, on repeat here at Amelia’s HQ.
Not only does he have a cool name, but his dad played Norman Bates in Hitchcock‘s ‘Psycho‘. Oh and his music pretty alright too. Perkins will be joined by a troupe of multi-instrumentalists to perform his new album, LP, which brings a cheerier 50s pop sound to his sterner debut.
Amelia’s Magazine will be catching up with this Sydney quintet before this in-store, so look out for the interview on the blog soon. Their ability to blend grunge, goth, and punk whilst adhering to an altogether pop aesthetic is fast making them a dance floor disciple.
Curious singer songwriter, Wolfe, launches his album, ‘Morning Brings A Flood’, along with a screening of his short film starring Emilia Fox and based on, ‘Stuck Under September’, one of Wolfe‘s songs. Talented chap. See you down the front.
If you go down to the outer reaches of South London today, you’ll be sure for a nice surprise. Intriguing venue, Croydon Clocktower will see Mercury Prize nominated post-jazz quintet, Polar Bear, play tracks from their forthcoming album, ‘Peepers’ alongside favourites from their acclaimed ‘Held On Tips Of Fingers’.
Influential post-punkers have reformed of late and we’re thankful for it. To celebrate its 30th anniversary they will play their eponymous debut, Entertainment!, in it’s entirety as well as other tracks old and new – enough to wet the appetite of the, no doubt, mix of balding rockers and indie youths in attendance.
Sunday 27th September: Autumn Equinox Fair, Cecil Sharp House, London
A fantastically robust line-up of Amelia’s favourites She Keeps Bees, pop-noirette Gemma Ray, former Arts Editor, Luisa Gerstein and her Lampshades, obscure psych-folkers Circulus, plus folk scribe Will Hodgkinson in London’s home of folk. Sounds devine.
- Music Listings: 31st August – 6th September
- Music Listings: 14th – 20th September
- Music Listings: 26th October – 1st November
- Music Listings: 7th – 13th September
- Polar Bear – Peepers – Album Review