Amelia’s Magazine | University of Central Lancashire: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review

Hayley Harrison GFW 2012 UCLan by Alice Hair

Hayley Harrison by Alice Hair

Before attending my first Graduate Fashion Week show, I had a little look around the stands to see what would jump out at me without the glitz and glamour of the catwalk. University of Central Lancashire immediately got my attention thanks to full-sized toiles of Xiaoping (Fiona) Hwangs intricately pleated clothing on display. I chatted with UCLan lecturer Kate Ball, who gave me her tips of who to look out for on the catwalk. Xiaoping was on her list, as well as Claire Acton‘s hair-inspired silhouettes with oversized perspex hair clips, Talia Golchin who created silhouettes based on old Victorian brothel imagery and Emma Guilfoyle who experimented with large-scale prints of John Major. “It all sounds a bit mad but it’s done in a really innovative way,” assured Kate, and after flipping through student portfolios and seeing amazing use of colour, pattern and a healthy dose of illustration (always good) I was ready for the catwalk show.

Claire Acton

Claire Acton GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Claire Acton GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

Claire Acton opened the show with, well exactly what lecturer Kate Ball described, but much better than I imagined. Fun ideas are great, but fun ideas produced to this standard are amazing. Fabric was turned into strong graphic lines by clever strips cut to look like hair, pinned out of the way of the printed faces peeking underneath. Young, exciting and colourful, Claire was a perfect choice to open the show with, and the use of perspex accessories (which seemed to be everywhere this graduate fashion week) was spot-on. Claire has already been raved about in the press for her impressive collection, as well as a runner-up for the Gold Award. I’m expecting we’ll see more of her brilliantly executed work soon.

Talia Golchin

Talia Golchin GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Talia Golchin GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

For Talia’s collection curvy, illustrated female figures balanced on top of oversized masculine boiler suits or floaty dresses printed with lips and moustaches. It may not be to everyone’s taste, but I could appreciate the strength of the concept here: much like something a Vivienne Westwood or Masion Martin Margiela in-the-making would do, it was bold wearable art that challenged what you would expect to see on a catwalk.

Hayley Harrison

Hayley Harrison GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

Hayley Harrison‘s collection was full of loud, eye-popping colour, but done in an exceptionally smart way. Strong lines, crisp structured white shirts and plastic draped as if it was silk made me want to look, look, and look again at her workmanship. Lecturer Kate Ball summed up this year’s graduates by commenting on how much they all experimented with surface pattern and print, which was evident in the hazy polka-dot neon pattern used for this collection.

Hayley Harrison GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Hayley Harrison GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

I love polka dots- japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, the ‘Princess of Polka Dots‘ uses them in everything, (and has recently collaborated with Louis Vuitton) and while using so many variations in one look could be over-crowded, Hayley Harrison added just enough to each outfit.

Emma Guifoyle

Emma Guilfoyle GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

Thatcher-ite style seems to be in big favour recently, and graduate Emma Guilfoyle took it to an incredible level with conceptual fashion. The illustrative John Major print made an appearance with an Andy Warhol-like punch, framed by extended version of 80′s power shoulders. Emma made it beautiful with excellent colour combinations such as mint and white or pink and brown tweed sections, adding little touches such as iridescent pailettes or rosettes emblazoned with ‘Vote!’. I also like that she included a matching bag – a massive part of any female politician’s trademark look.

GFW collection by Emma Guilfoyle
Graduate collection by Emma Guilfoyle

Emma Guilfoyle GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Emma Guilfoyle GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

Steph Cunningham

Steph Cunningham GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Steph Cunningham GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

Trompe l’oeil digital prints with a hint of 90′s Versace: Steph Cunningham hit the mark with patterned suits, dresses and separates in an array of rich colours. I loved the gilded frame print used as an edging to the bottom and waist of a skirt or as the lapels on a coat (reminiscent of Mary Katrantzou), as well as the jumble of images that reminded me of a tapestry, echoing the feminine silhouettes perfectly.

Graduate Collection by Steph Cunningham
Graduate Collection by Steph Cunningham
Graduate Collection by Steph Cunningham

Xiaoping (Fiona) Huang
For each graduate’s work I saw, I would put a star next to my notes against a few who really impressed me, and Xiaoping Huang was definitely one of them. Already intrigued by the toiles on the UCLan stand and the heads up from a lecturer, I was not prepared for the incredible collection about to come down the catwalk. Incredible – and I mean incredible as Xiaoping has since been awarded the Zandra Rhodes Textiles award for her work – variations of accordion pleats in a ton of primary colours came bounding down the catwalk. Models changed from stiff structures to delicately shrouded forms in Issey Miyake-like softly pleated silks, then to bouncing, walking, jack-in-the boxes.

Xiaoping (Fiona) Huang GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Xiaoping (Fiona) Huang GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum
Xiaoping (Fiona) Huang GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

It was like Xiaoping Huang wasn’t just designing, she was playing with her skills, visually exploring the ways she could stretch her abilities. There was so much to see, and so many details that you could spend forever pouring over. Lecturer Kate Ball told me that Xiaoping is even involved in creating a set of ‘shrinkable furniture‘ and I began to see correlations between her work and Hussein Chalayan‘s famous collapsable, wearable furniture collections.

Graduate Collection by Xiaoping Huang

Seeing how successfully this collection turned out from looking over a teaser toile at the UCLan stand was the perfect end to the show. I cannot wait to see more from Xiaoping Huang, as well as the other graduates from such a talented group. Look out fashion world, there are some super-designers in waiting.

Xiaoping (Fiona) Huang GFW 2012 UCLan by Alia Gargum

Categories ,90s, ,Alice Hair, ,Andy Warhol, ,Claire Acton, ,Earls Court, ,Emma Guilfoyle, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hayley Harrison, ,illustration, ,Issey Miyake, ,John Major, ,Kate Ball, ,Louis Vuitton, ,Maison Martin Margiela, ,Mary Kantrantzou, ,shrinkable furniture, ,Steph Cunningham, ,Talia Golchin, ,Textile Award, ,University of Central Lancashire, ,Versace, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Xiaoping Huang, ,Yayoi Kusama, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2012 Printed Textiles and Surface Design Graduates: part two

New Designers part one 2012 -Phillippa Copping
Following on from my first review of printed textiles and surface design graduates at New Designers 2012, here’s my second pick of the student work. At Cleveland College of Art and Design bright geometric patterns by Phillippa Copping reigned supreme. I wasn’t surprised to learn that she has interned with Zandra Rhodes, whose influence was clear.

New Designers part one 2012 -Robyn Taylor
Robyn Taylor had fun with embroidered fashion illustrations.

New Designers part one 2012 -Holly Stevens
Crazy robots with 3D embellishment sprung out of graph paper in these interactive wallpaper designs for children by Holly Stevens.

New Designers part one 2012 -Tori Arrighi
At Edinburgh College of Art Tori Arrighi mixed fractal patterns with bold swipes of bright colour.

New Designers part one 2012 -Gillian Boyd
Gillian Boyd is an acoustic textile designer who designers decorative panels for maximum sound absorption.

New Designers part one 2012 -Danielle Lunn
At University of Bolton Danielle Lunn embroidered curious patterns that looked like sea creatures created in the style of Indian folk art.

New Designers part one 2012 -Emma Mcvan
Emma Mcvan mixed photorealist imagery with abstract design to great effect.

New Designers part one 2012 -Velvet Jade
New Designers part one 2012 -Velvet Jade
The fabulously named Velvet Jade mixed vibrant geometrics with 3D rosettes.

New Designers part one 2012 -Viktoriya Zarvanska
At UCLAN oversized squirrel and deer designs were attracting a lot of attention on Viktoriya Zarvanska‘s very busy stand.

New Designers part one 2012 -Jane Bridges
The English Country Garden Collection by Jane Bridges featured some beautiful modern acidic and plum colour combinations.

New Designers part one 2012 -Shayna Begum
New Designers part one 2012 -Shayna Begum
New Designers part one 2012 -Shayna Begum
At UEL I was immediately drawn to modern woodland designs from nature lover Shayna Begum: read an interview with her by Kate Lynch here. Her love of Timorous Beasties is evident.

New Designers part one 2012 -Netanya Barber
At Northbrook College in Sussex Netanya Barber mixed photo real birds and flowers with intricate wirework patterns.

New Designers part one 2012 -Melody Ross
At the Arts Uni College in Bournemouth Melody Ross went wild with neon laser cut acrylic for interiors products.

New Designers part one 2012 -Alice Skipp
At Swansea Metropolitan layered stencil designs by Alice Skipp were applied with great joy across plates, tea cosies, teatowels.

New Designers part one 2012 -Sam Fenn-Johnston
Retro inspired upholstery by Sam Fenn-Johnston was showcased on old fashioned style arm chairs in the One Year On section.

Third review of printed textiles and surface design graduates at New Designers 2012 coming soon!

Categories ,2012, ,Acoustic textiles, ,Acrylic, ,Alice Skipp, ,Arts Thread, ,Arts Uni College in Bournemouth, ,Cleveland College of Art and Design, ,Danielle Lunn, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Emma Mcvan, ,Gillian Boyd, ,Holly Stevens, ,Jane Bridges, ,Kate Bell, ,Kate Lynch, ,Melody Ross, ,Netanya Barber, ,New Designers, ,Northbrook College, ,One Year On, ,Phillippa Copping, ,Printed Textiles, ,review, ,Robyn Taylor, ,Sam Fenn-Johnston, ,Shayna Begum, ,Stunt Giraffe, ,surface design, ,Sussex, ,Swansea Metropolitan, ,The English Country Garden Collection, ,Timorous Beasties, ,Tori Arrighi, ,UCLan, ,UEL, ,University of Bolton, ,Velvet Jade, ,Viktoriya Zarvanska, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: The FAD Junior Awards (again)


Illustration by Joana Faria

Nearing the end of fashion week, salve visit this site everyone begins to look forward to a little light relief and a break from running from venue to venue – maybe some music, a bit of dancing and a drink or two? The Tatty Devine party ticked all the boxes and added an abundance of their snazzy jewelery to oogle at.

Held in their Covent Garden store on Monmouth Street, there was a lively crowd from seven onwards mixing those who had turned up for the party, with the people spilling out from nearby pubs and bars. The Severed Limb were playing on and off with my favourite member playing something which when I asked, was told (in an its-matter-of-fact-way), that it was the wash board.

So…the dulcet tones of the washboard, the bass, and the accordion accompanied the Can Do dancers from Pineapple Studios. With their amazing ruffled, flared skirts and Tatty Devine jewellery the party was literally jumping by 8 o’clock. Western themed jewellery matched the music with fringed necklaces, brooches, horseshoe earrings and cowboy boot charms.


Illustration by Joana Faria

I have always enjoyed the quirkiness of Tatty Devine jewellery and their new pieces do not let the brand down. The moustache and pipe rings are great, as are the famous name tag necklaces and the pom pom earrings Amelia spotted when she popped down later. Rifling through my goodie bag, I was delighted to find a pipe ring included – definite style win.

We’ve always been fans of Tatty Devine and I was pleased to see that they are still going strong with their collaborations. At the moment, Rob Ryan jewellery (who collaborated with us for our second issue) is available from their online store as well as in Covent Garden. Other designers they are working with include Mrs Jones and Gilbert & George.




Illustration by Joana Faria

Nearing the end of fashion week, nurse everyone begins to look forward to a little light relief and a break from running from venue to venue – maybe some music, a bit of dancing and a drink or two? The Tatty Devine party ticked all the boxes and added an abundance of their snazzy jewellery to oogle at.

Held in their Covent Garden store on Monmouth Street, there was a lively crowd from seven onwards mixing those who had turned up for the party, with the people spilling out from nearby pubs and bars. The Severed Limb were playing on and off with my favourite member playing something which when I asked, was told (in an its-matter-of-fact-way), that it was the wash board.

So…the dulcet tones of the washboard, the bass, and the accordion accompanied the Can Do dancers from Pineapple Studios. With their amazing ruffled, flared skirts and Tatty Devine jewellery the party was literally jumping by 8 o’clock. Western themed jewellery matched the music with fringed necklaces, brooches, horseshoe earrings and cowboy boot charms.


Illustration by Joana Faria

I have always enjoyed the quirkiness of Tatty Devine jewellery and their new pieces do not let the brand down. The moustache and pipe rings are great, as are the famous name tag necklaces and the pom pom earrings Amelia spotted when she popped down later. Rifling through my goodie bag, I was delighted to find a pipe ring included – definite style win.

We’ve always been fans of Tatty Devine and I was pleased to see that they are still going strong with their collaborations. At the moment, Rob Ryan jewellery (who collaborated with us for our second issue) is available from their online store as well as in Covent Garden. Other designers they are working with include Mrs Jones and Gilbert & George.




Illustration by Joana Faria

Nearing the end of fashion week, this site everyone begins to look forward to a little light relief and a break from running from venue to venue – maybe some music, recipe a bit of dancing and a drink or two? The Tatty Devine party ticked all the boxes and added an abundance of their snazzy jewellery to oogle at.

Held in their Covent Garden store on Monmouth Street, there was a lively crowd from seven onwards mixing those who had turned up for the party, with the people spilling out from nearby pubs and bars. The Severed Limb were playing on and off with my favourite member playing something which when I asked, was told (in an its-matter-of-fact-way), that it was the wash board.

So…the dulcet tones of the washboard, the bass, and the accordion accompanied the Can Do dancers from Pineapple Studios. With their amazing ruffled, flared skirts and Tatty Devine jewellery, the party was literally jumping by 8 o’clock. Western themed jewellery matched the music with fringed necklaces, brooches, horseshoe earrings and cowboy boot charms.


Illustration by Joana Faria

I have always enjoyed the quirkiness of Tatty Devine jewellery and their new pieces do not let the brand down. The moustache and pipe rings are great, as are the famous name tag necklaces and the pom pom earrings Amelia spotted when she popped down later. Rifling through my goodie bag, I was delighted to find a pipe ring included – definite style win.

We’ve always been fans of Tatty Devine and I was pleased to see that they are still going strong with their collaborations. At the moment, Rob Ryan jewellery (who collaborated with us for our second issue) is available from their online store as well as in Covent Garden. Other designers they are working with include Mrs Jones and Gilbert & George.




Illustration by Andrea Peterson

As part of Designers Remix, shop designer Charlotte Eskildsen, discount who is creative director of the enterprise published their signature collection last week. After winning the prestigious Danish Design Guldknappen award she has become a force to be reckoned with in international fashion since starting the line in 2002. Her S/S 2011 collection ‘Liquid Sky’ is inspired by cloud formations.

Draped fabrics. Origami folds. A flash orange dress. Scraped back hair tied in tight knots. The show, diagnosis held in the Portico rooms was one of my favourites of the week. Like many others, it stuck strongly to a muted colour range, beginning with pieces in greys, creams and blacks. Small details like the delicate lace insets and just-seen underskirts pulled the collection together extremely well.

Charlotte’s skill lies in how well she collects the fabric together and makes it hang. Ruffles on the shoulders of her cream dresses are restrained and kept from looking fussy, the great bright orange dress (which I desperately want) is understated in all other ways bar the colour and the waterfall collars on the jackets carried the theme of softness through even on heavier fabrics.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The clothes ranged from smart black dresses, to sand toned wafty jackets and ruffled party frocks in various shades of cream. This is a collection that is just good. I can’t put my finger on an exact feature or piece that puts it into a higher category for me and I think that’s why I like it.

More than just a wearable summer collection, it mars together a floaty casual look with added details of specialness without being over the top. If I wanted to sound very fashiony I would call it perfect ‘understated chic’, but hopefully I’ve described it better than that!


Illustration by Katie Harnett

This post is being written nine days after Kinder Aggugini’s Africa inspired show. There was a lot of this lazy naming of inspiration being banded around the press releases this season – it sappears the majority of designers forget that Africa is not simply Africa but a complex continent subdivided via colonial rule and consisting of multiple languages and cultures. But for the purposes of Fashion Africa it has been relegated to Tiger skins and “super fantastic” Safari outfits. For a supposidly fashion forward industry; fashion is (un)surprisingly chained to particular ideas of wealth and escapism.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

It was not ‘Africa’ which inspired Kinder but a European idea of Africa, information pills an idea which often fills the pages of Vogue’s distasteful summer fashion shoots of caucasian models in ‘Colonial Explorer’ inspired outfits striding the Safari. In a twist for a Spring Summer collection inspired by Africa, price the catwalk featured Linen Jackets with trousers to match alongside simple shift dresses. The most exciting thing that appeared on the catwalk were the cardboard hats made by the fantastic Stephen Jones.

Fashion survives and feeds on escapist desires, Dior encapsulated a sense of jubilance with his “New Look” after years of rationing. Whether you want to or not we buy into the idea that what we wear is a projection of our opinions. As a result an entire industry (the High Street,the Ateliers and the Fashion Press) has developed to transform ideas created on the catwalk into the trends currently seen dominating shop window displays. Suddenly have an urge to feel like a pre-Second World War pilot? Then why not buy the Burberry inspired aviator jacket?

Since Kinder’s show, London has finished, Milan began and ended and Paris is in the process of starting. The month of Spring Summer Fashion is drawing to a close. Trend spotters and bloggers waiting eagle eyed for a clue to what we will all be wearing next season, will have already produced trend forecasted. The main problem, lies not with the designers such has Kinder Aggugini who are transcribing their inspiration into garments, but with the increasing dislocation between clothes and the wearer. Fast Fashion means you can be one look tomorrow and another look tomorrow, the result at the moment is the constant plundering of the 70′s aesthetic. Perhaps, in these straightened times, the loss of ‘simpler’ times are being mourned?

Illustration by Katie Harnett

This post is being written nine days after Kinder Aggugini’s Africa inspired show. There was a lot of this lazy naming of inspiration being bandied around the press releases this season – it appears the majority of designers forget that Africa is not simply Africa but a complex continent subdivided via colonial rule and consisting of multiple languages and cultures. But for the purposes of Fashion Africa it has been relegated to Tiger skins and “super fantastic” Safari outfits. For a supposedly fashion forward industry; fashion is (un)surprisingly chained to particular ideas of wealth and escapism.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

It was not ‘Africa’ which inspired Kinder but a European idea of Africa, physician an idea which often fills the pages of Vogue’s distasteful summer fashion shoots of caucasian models in ‘Colonial Explorer’ inspired outfits striding the Safari. In a twist for a Spring Summer collection inspired by Africa, more about the catwalk featured Linen Jackets with trousers to match alongside simple shift dresses. The most exciting thing that appeared on the catwalk were the cardboard hats made by the fantastic Stephen Jones.

Fashion survives and feeds on escapist desires, Dior encapsulated a sense of jubilance with his “New Look” after years of rationing. Whether you want to or not we buy into the idea that what we wear is a projection of our opinions. As a result an entire industry (the High Street,the Ateliers and the Fashion Press) has developed to transform ideas created on the catwalk into the trends currently seen dominating shop window displays. Suddenly have an urge to feel like a pre-Second World War pilot? Then why not buy the Burberry inspired aviator jacket?

Since Kinder’s show, London has finished, Milan began and ended and Paris is in the process of starting. The month of Spring Summer Fashion is drawing to a close. Trend spotters and bloggers waiting eagle eyed for a clue to what we will all be wearing next season, will have already produced trend forecasted. The main problem, lies not with the designers such as Kinder Aggugini who are transcribing their inspiration into garments, but with the increasing dislocation between clothes and the wearer. Fast Fashion means you can be one look tomorrow and another look tomorrow, the result at the moment is the constant plundering of the 70′s aesthetic. Perhaps, in these straightened times, the loss of ‘simpler’ times are being mourned?

Illustration by Katie Harnett

This post is being written nine days after Kinder Aggugini’s ‘Africa’ inspired show. This season there was a lot of this lazy naming of inspiration being bandied around the press releases – it appears designers forget Africa is not simply ‘Africa’ but a complex continent subdivided via colonial rule and consisting of multiple languages and cultures. But for the purposes of Fashion Africa it has been relegated to Tiger skins and “super fantastic” Safari outfits. For a supposedly fashion forward industry; fashion is (un)surprisingly chained to particular ideas of wealth and escapism.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

It was not ‘Africa’ which inspired Kinder but a European idea of Africa, prescription an idea which often fills the pages of Vogue’s distasteful summer fashion shoots of caucasian models in ‘Colonial Explorer’ inspired outfits striding the Safari. In a twist for a Spring Summer collection inspired by Africa, try the catwalk featured Linen Jackets with trousers to match alongside simple shift dresses. The most exciting thing that appeared on the catwalk were the cardboard hats made by the fantastic Stephen Jones.

Fashion survives and feeds on escapist desires, pills Dior encapsulated a sense of jubilance with his “New Look” after years of rationing. Whether you want to or not we buy into the idea that what we wear is a projection of our opinions. As a result an entire industry (the High Street,the Ateliers and the Fashion Press) has developed to transform ideas created on the catwalk into the trends currently seen dominating shop window displays. Suddenly have an urge to feel like a pre-Second World War pilot? Then why not buy the Burberry inspired aviator jacket?

Since Kinder’s show, London has finished, Milan began and ended and Paris is in the process of starting. The month of Spring Summer Fashion is drawing to a close. Trend spotters and bloggers waiting eagle eyed for a clue to what we will all be wearing next season, will have already produced trend forecasted. The main problem, lies not with the designers such as Kinder Aggugini who are transcribing their inspiration into garments, but with the increasing dislocation between clothes and the wearer. Fast Fashion means you can be one look tomorrow and another look tomorrow, the result at the moment is the constant plundering of the 70′s aesthetic. Perhaps, in these straightened times, the loss of ‘simpler’ times are being mourned?


Illustration by Joana Faria

On Tuesday night Amelia, approved myself and Zandra Rhodes met at the Freemason’s Hall to attend the FAD Junior Fashion Awards. Well, advice Zandra was there, adiposity across the catwalk, she didn’t technically ARRIVE with us. We’d been invited by email: an email that was gushing in gratitude for the work we had done to support this charity. I am ashamed to admit that I didn’t have a clue what this lovely lady was talking about – there’s so much good stuff on here that I occasionally miss the odd article. But Fran from FAD was happy, and I was to attend!

The usual beginning ensued – I quiverred in the background having forgotten my ticket while Amelia dragged me by the arm, kicking and screaming, onto the front row. I have to say that I am finally starting to get used to all this and by the A/W 2012 shows I’ll be poised at the front of the queues, shoulders back, sunglasses on, marching to the front.

The Freemason’s was absolutely boiling as always (please sort some air conditioning out for next year, VFS!). In fact, somebody should have supplied fans in goodie bags. Imagine! You could show bin bags covered in sh*t and people would say nice things if you kept them cool.

Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) are a charity who work with young people to give them the confidence to get into fashion. Where do I sign up?! One of last year’s students, Prash Muraleetharan, delivered the most inspirational speech that I was almost in tears, and the show hadn’t even started. Amelia and I scrambled to write down what he had said. All this before we’d seen a single badly made dressed or batiked skirt (as I imagined).


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Amelia and I continually remarked throughout the show about how young these budding designers were. I can honestly say that there was very little difference between this show and those on the BFC catwalk (you know, the on-schedule one that is supposedly the creme-de-la-creme of current British fashion).

You can read Amelia’s full report here. I couldn’t make head nor tail of who was who – the looks appeared, the names changed so quickly, and the running order was in the wrong order. AND, to top it off, it was impossible to take pictures because a certain somebody kept telling me off for getting in the way. Tehe.

This year’s theme had been inspired by the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries at the V&A, which was evident on the catwalk, but not in a typically student way by any means. When the theme was announced, before the show, I thought ‘Oh hear we go – cue silly headgear and bucket top boots’. No such thing – the inspiration had been handled with such sophistication that it acted as a discrete point of reference rather than a fancy dress theme.

So to the winners. The winning collection was David Short’s medieval emerald number, crowning him the first boy ever to scoop the coveted prize.


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

My favourite was Andre Augusto’s body-con number with exaggerated sleeves and strap detail – an Alexander McQueen in the making.

Sarah Kilkenny’s simple a-line dress with rope detail scooped the Award for Research.

Karmen-Marie Parker burst into tears when Zandra Rhodes (my Zandra) presented her with the award for Commercial Innovation – her sports-luxe denim creation had real style.

A totally inspirational show, which reduced me to tears and left me reeling. In amongst all the ridiculous ludicrousness of fashion week, this was the perfect antidote.

Oh do pop over to Amelia’s review because she’s far more diligent than I am and has listed all the other fabulous youngsters and their creations – and has more gratuitous shots of MY Zandra for your delectation. Oh and here’s a video, in which you can probably see me blubbing somewhere on the left…

Photography by Amelia Gregory and Matt Bramford

Categories ,Aniela Murphy, ,FAD Junior Awards, ,Fashion Awareness Direct, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joana Faria, ,Karmen-Marie Parker, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,M&S, ,Prash Muraleetharan, ,Sarah Kilkenny, ,University of East London, ,va, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: The FAD Junior Awards (again)


Illustration by Joana Faria

On Tuesday night Amelia, myself and Zandra Rhodes met at the Freemason’s Hall to attend the FAD Junior Fashion Awards. Well, Zandra was there, across the catwalk, she didn’t technically ARRIVE with us. We’d been invited by email: an email that was gushing in gratitude for the work we had done to support this charity. I am ashamed to admit that I didn’t have a clue what this lovely lady was talking about – there’s so much good stuff on here that I occasionally miss the odd article. But Fran from FAD was happy, and I was to attend!

The usual beginning ensued – I quiverred in the background having forgotten my ticket while Amelia dragged me by the arm, kicking and screaming, onto the front row. I have to say that I am finally starting to get used to all this and by the A/W 2012 shows I’ll be poised at the front of the queues, shoulders back, sunglasses on, marching to the front.

The Freemason’s was absolutely boiling as always (please sort some air conditioning out for next year, VFS!). In fact, somebody should have supplied fans in goodie bags. Imagine! You could show bin bags covered in sh*t and people would say nice things if you kept them cool.

Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) are a charity who work with young people to give them the confidence to get into fashion. Where do I sign up?! One of last year’s students, Prash Muraleetharan, delivered the most inspirational speech that I was almost in tears, and the show hadn’t even started. Amelia and I scrambled to write down what he had said. All this before we’d seen a single badly made dressed or batiked skirt (as I imagined).


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Amelia and I continually remarked throughout the show about how young these budding designers were. I can honestly say that there was very little difference between this show and those on the BFC catwalk (you know, the on-schedule one that is supposedly the creme-de-la-creme of current British fashion).

You can read Amelia’s full report here. I couldn’t make head nor tail of who was who – the looks appeared, the names changed so quickly, and the running order was in the wrong order. AND, to top it off, it was impossible to take pictures because a certain somebody kept telling me off for getting in the way. Tehe.

This year’s theme had been inspired by the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries at the V&A, which was evident on the catwalk, but not in a typically student way by any means. When the theme was announced, before the show, I thought ‘Oh hear we go – cue silly headgear and bucket top boots’. No such thing – the inspiration had been handled with such sophistication that it acted as a discrete point of reference rather than a fancy dress theme.

So to the winners. The winning collection was David Short’s medieval emerald number, crowning him the first boy ever to scoop the coveted prize.


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

My favourite was Andre Augusto’s body-con number with exaggerated sleeves and strap detail – an Alexander McQueen in the making.

Sarah Kilkenny’s simple a-line dress with rope detail scooped the Award for Research.

Karmen-Marie Parker burst into tears when Zandra Rhodes (my Zandra) presented her with the award for Commercial Innovation – her sports-luxe denim creation had real style.

A totally inspirational show, which reduced me to tears and left me reeling. In amongst all the ridiculous ludicrousness of fashion week, this was the perfect antidote.

Oh do pop over to Amelia’s review because she’s far more diligent than I am and has listed all the other fabulous youngsters and their creations – and has more gratuitous shots of MY Zandra for your delectation. Oh and here’s a video, in which you can probably see me blubbing somewhere on the left…

Photography by Amelia Gregory and Matt Bramford

Categories ,Aniela Murphy, ,FAD Junior Awards, ,Fashion Awareness Direct, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joana Faria, ,Karmen-Marie Parker, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,M&S, ,Prash Muraleetharan, ,Sarah Kilkenny, ,University of East London, ,va, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Exhibition Review: Headonism


Charlie Le Mindu by Claire Kearns

The exhibitions around Somerset House are one of my favourite London Fashion Week pleasures – I enjoy wandering the stands in between shows as it gives you a chance to see all of the clothes close up and even talk to some of the designers about their new collections. One such exhibition that I always make sure I catch, view is Headonsim. Curated by legendary milliner Stephen Jones, information pills who has designed for everyone from Marilyn Manson to Beyonce, medications 2011 marks its third year of existence. Read my S/S 2011 review here.


Charlie Le Mindu by Michelle Pegrume

Four milliners participated – Charlie Le Mindu, Piers Atkinson, Noel Stewart and J Smith Esquire. Situated next to the press lounge in Somerset House this time around, each designer exhibited their best talents on stands placed at different levels in quite a small room on the ground floor (rather than on the lower level as in previous years).

As expected, Charlie Le Mindu offered up some weird yet totally wonderful pieces, including this blue haired creation with amazing top headpiece and veil – the inky blue shades that used for his new pieces are a dramatically cool, dark approach to the lighter summer colours that we have seen on the catwalks so far this season. Le Mindu is well known for his hair couture creations – owing to regular nudity and his creative use of hair, his catwalk shows are always a media, blogger, fashion frenzy. For a background on some of the amazing hair couture collections he has created in the past, read Amelia’s review on his AW11 collection here.

His Headonism collection of blue wigs featured crystals, dip dyed ends and flowing curls given an edge with spiked headbands. Unlike his more avant garde creations, the ones on show at Headonism were a good flavour of what the designer is capable of in a more wearable capacity (if you are so inclined to wear a blue wig, that is!).


Piers Atkinson by Dee Andrews

Piers Atkinson has long been a favourite designer of mine. I love the way that he manages to be fun, quirky and different with his designs but still create pieces with enduring appeal. I reviewed his collection last year when the Hollywood hat stood out for me, he has since designed the cult-status Paris hat, which spawned further ‘Anna’ (but which Anna did he mean?!) and ‘London’ hats (worn by all those working behind the scenes at Somerset House). With his iconic cherry designs and loyal celebrity following (Anna Dello Russo, Kate Moss, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Kelis, Cate Blanchett and Paloma Faith), his credentials are faultless. As part of the ‘Hot Voodoo’ S/S 2012 collection, this feather boa-esque blue snood is the ‘Ashlie’ and features a banana leaf print by Zandra Rhodes and printed blue silk chiffon Macaw.


Noel Stewart by Claire Kearns

Noel Stewart showed a beautiful collection of bright hats and headpieces, with multi-coloured cactus shapes, day-glo orange and wide rimmed sun hats, his S/S 2012 collection is bursting with the in-your-face shades that dominated many of the catwalks this season. The London based milliner has enjoyed large degrees of success since leaving the Royal College of Arts – the roll call of designers he has worked with is impressive to say the least and includes Hussein Chalayan, Oscar De La Renta and Roland Mouret. Perfectly crystallised in the illustration above, this fashion week he designed the hats for the Ready to Wear Erdem S/S 2012 catwalk show – a floral fantasy in pale blue hues played out in pretty dresses, trench coats and flowing skirts. Delicate in their execution, the small hats complimented the detailed floral prints of the collection wonderfully.


J Smith Esquire by Dee Andrews

J Smith Esquire presented a dreamy collection of Magritte inspired cloud bowler hats, sun hats and intricate leather headpieces. The sky blue and deep blue straw hats pattered with white fluffy clouds were a simple way to skip forward to thoughts of summer. Made from patent leather, his other headpieces have been cut to resemble feathers curling around the head in hues of sky blue, red and pale grey.

All in all, some exquisite design and now I can’t wait for summer.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Anna Dello Russo, ,Cate Blanchett, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Claire Kearns, ,Dee Andrews, ,Erdem, ,Erdem S/S12, ,Florence Massey, ,Headonism, ,Hot Voodoo, ,Hussein Chalayan, ,J Smith Esquire, ,Kate Moss, ,Kelis, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week Exhibition, ,London milliners, ,Magritte, ,Michelle Pegrume, ,Noel Stewart, ,Oscar De La Renta, ,paloma faith, ,piers atkinson, ,Rihanna, ,Roland Mouret, ,Somerset House, ,Stephen Jones, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Piers Atkinson


Illustration by Krister Selin

Christopher Shannon burst back on to the catwalk on Menswear Day at London Fashion Week in typical chav-luxe fashion. Menswear day was a bit hot and cold this season – some of the shows were extremely busy, information pills but when I arrived at Christopher Shannon’s there didn’t seem to be that many attendees, no rx so I plonked myself on the front row and fiddled with my iPhone in a bid to look belonging and important. I even adjusted my crumbling posture (which is hella difficult after the cruel strains of back-to-back slumping at shows).


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

The show soon filled up, viagra sale mind, and I was squashed along the frankly miserable BFC benches. Shannon’s infamous taste in music with which I wholeheartedly side (Rihanna’s What’s My Name and Te Amo being this season’s choice tunes) began the show, and out popped the street-cast models we’re familiar with. Some of them look terrified, some achingly nonchalant, but all are suited to Shannon’s unique take on menswear.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A mix of jersey sweatshirts, scarves and oversized rucksacks started the show – each with a Shannon twist. Shirts were cut through the middle to mix up the patterns – this time with a more ‘worldly’ influence. His obsession with sportswear derives from the fact that wherever you go, ‘there’s always sportswear’ – too true – and Shannon has drawn upon the variations of sportswear in different cultures for this ‘Hold Yer Head Up’ collection.


Illustration by Oscar Rubio

Bolder prints – abstract forms that have a more biological feel (influenced by his affection for David Attenborough!) make up the body of designs. Later came shirts separated down the middle in varying ways – sometimes texture, sometimes colour. Some shirts had woven-blanket details with different kitsch embellishments – a surprising move but a welcome one nonetheless.

Shannon’s clean nylons were spiced up with some frou-frou details this season – I wouldn’t be seen dead in any of this (mostly because my friends would snort, point and laugh) but I think the aesthetic of it is just fabulous. The lights, imposing over the catwalk, bounced in between each ruffle to give a shiny, futuristic look. A colour palette of navy blue, black, grey came with splashes of colour from the woven elements and bits of baby pink to remind us that this is still sportswear. Flat caps and flashy vibrant trainers complimented each outfit.


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Much preferred the Eastpak collaboration rucksacks this time – again, the woven blanket details showed up and looked ace.

But, in spite of all this, I’ll forever remember Christopher Shannon’s A/W 2011 outing for those incredible Frank Sidebottom-esque hair-dos and embellished eyebrows. Why, you might ask? Because this is FASHION, darling.

See more of Krister Selin and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

On Saturday 19th February I wandered down a rainy Frith Street to see milliner Piers Atkinson’s A/W 2011 collection.

Atkinson has an interesting background having originally studied graphic design, viagra before becoming involved with millinery he worked in PR for Zandra Rhodes, Mandi Lennard and Blow. He then became fashion editor at Disorder magazine before establishing The Daily for London Fashion Week. To ‘let off steam’ during this time he produced a small series of hats that would become his debut collection.


Illustrations by Joana Faria

Presented in Franny’s Pop Up Gallery opposite Ronnie Scott’s, the restaurant venue didn’t really give an indication of what would be on display, but Frith Street (just off Old Compton Street) was the ideal location given the themes in the collection.


Illustrations by Karolina Burdon

Atkinson drew on 1930s Paris for inspiration for Autumn Winter 2010, taking his cues from cabaret, bygone opium dens, drag queens, showgirls and back alley romance.  Familiar base shapes in a palette of navy, aubergine, black and gold were adorned with eccentric oversized fruits, giant pom poms, glitter and ostrich feathers. The range of avant-garde pieces would make Lady Gaga proud; she is already one of Atkinson’s high profile fans having worn a piece constructed from telephone components.


Illustrations by Ankolie

Also on display were photographs of Atkinson’s infamous acquaintances along with some of his lesser-known friends.  Mostly shot in Dalston back streets after dark, they could just as easily have been taken in 1930s Paris.

Obviously hard-to-miss were the eye-catching berets topped with neon lights, while classic shapes in suede were punctuated with gold plated studs. Veils were accented with diamantes… and glittering aubergines with 24 carat gold leaf. ‘Les Fruits de la Nuit’ featuring ‘hyper cherries’ and Atkinson’s signature lips embroidered on a tulle veil was a real winner, too!

More hyper cherries, this time in 24 carat gold leaf:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

‘L’Heroine’ with fab ‘chinchilla coque feather overdose’:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Unfortunately I couldn’t make it to the party in the evening, but apparently whilst guests watched a performance by Anna Piaggi, two of the hats were stolen, but luckily for Piers and his team they were returned just as promptly as they disappeared.

See more of Joana Faria and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,1930s, ,A/W 2011, ,Ankolie, ,Blow, ,Cabaret, ,Cherries, ,dalston, ,Diamante, ,Disorder Magazine, ,Drag Queens, ,Frannie’s Pop Up Gallery, ,hats, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mandi Leonard, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,millinery, ,Naomi Law, ,Opium Dens, ,paris, ,piers atkinson, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Piers Atkinson


Illustration by Krister Selin

Christopher Shannon burst back on to the catwalk on Menswear Day at London Fashion Week in typical chav-luxe fashion. Menswear day was a bit hot and cold this season – some of the shows were extremely busy, information pills but when I arrived at Christopher Shannon’s there didn’t seem to be that many attendees, no rx so I plonked myself on the front row and fiddled with my iPhone in a bid to look belonging and important. I even adjusted my crumbling posture (which is hella difficult after the cruel strains of back-to-back slumping at shows).


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

The show soon filled up, viagra sale mind, and I was squashed along the frankly miserable BFC benches. Shannon’s infamous taste in music with which I wholeheartedly side (Rihanna’s What’s My Name and Te Amo being this season’s choice tunes) began the show, and out popped the street-cast models we’re familiar with. Some of them look terrified, some achingly nonchalant, but all are suited to Shannon’s unique take on menswear.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A mix of jersey sweatshirts, scarves and oversized rucksacks started the show – each with a Shannon twist. Shirts were cut through the middle to mix up the patterns – this time with a more ‘worldly’ influence. His obsession with sportswear derives from the fact that wherever you go, ‘there’s always sportswear’ – too true – and Shannon has drawn upon the variations of sportswear in different cultures for this ‘Hold Yer Head Up’ collection.


Illustration by Oscar Rubio

Bolder prints – abstract forms that have a more biological feel (influenced by his affection for David Attenborough!) make up the body of designs. Later came shirts separated down the middle in varying ways – sometimes texture, sometimes colour. Some shirts had woven-blanket details with different kitsch embellishments – a surprising move but a welcome one nonetheless.

Shannon’s clean nylons were spiced up with some frou-frou details this season – I wouldn’t be seen dead in any of this (mostly because my friends would snort, point and laugh) but I think the aesthetic of it is just fabulous. The lights, imposing over the catwalk, bounced in between each ruffle to give a shiny, futuristic look. A colour palette of navy blue, black, grey came with splashes of colour from the woven elements and bits of baby pink to remind us that this is still sportswear. Flat caps and flashy vibrant trainers complimented each outfit.


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Much preferred the Eastpak collaboration rucksacks this time – again, the woven blanket details showed up and looked ace.

But, in spite of all this, I’ll forever remember Christopher Shannon’s A/W 2011 outing for those incredible Frank Sidebottom-esque hair-dos and embellished eyebrows. Why, you might ask? Because this is FASHION, darling.

See more of Krister Selin and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

On Saturday 19th February I wandered down a rainy Frith Street to see milliner Piers Atkinson’s A/W 2011 collection.

Atkinson has an interesting background having originally studied graphic design, viagra before becoming involved with millinery he worked in PR for Zandra Rhodes, Mandi Lennard and Blow. He then became fashion editor at Disorder magazine before establishing The Daily for London Fashion Week. To ‘let off steam’ during this time he produced a small series of hats that would become his debut collection.


Illustrations by Joana Faria

Presented in Franny’s Pop Up Gallery opposite Ronnie Scott’s, the restaurant venue didn’t really give an indication of what would be on display, but Frith Street (just off Old Compton Street) was the ideal location given the themes in the collection.


Illustrations by Karolina Burdon

Atkinson drew on 1930s Paris for inspiration for Autumn Winter 2010, taking his cues from cabaret, bygone opium dens, drag queens, showgirls and back alley romance.  Familiar base shapes in a palette of navy, aubergine, black and gold were adorned with eccentric oversized fruits, giant pom poms, glitter and ostrich feathers. The range of avant-garde pieces would make Lady Gaga proud; she is already one of Atkinson’s high profile fans having worn a piece constructed from telephone components.


Illustrations by Ankolie

Also on display were photographs of Atkinson’s infamous acquaintances along with some of his lesser-known friends.  Mostly shot in Dalston back streets after dark, they could just as easily have been taken in 1930s Paris.

Obviously hard-to-miss were the eye-catching berets topped with neon lights, while classic shapes in suede were punctuated with gold plated studs. Veils were accented with diamantes… and glittering aubergines with 24 carat gold leaf. ‘Les Fruits de la Nuit’ featuring ‘hyper cherries’ and Atkinson’s signature lips embroidered on a tulle veil was a real winner, too!

More hyper cherries, this time in 24 carat gold leaf:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

‘L’Heroine’ with fab ‘chinchilla coque feather overdose’:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Unfortunately I couldn’t make it to the party in the evening, but apparently whilst guests watched a performance by Anna Piaggi, two of the hats were stolen, but luckily for Piers and his team they were returned just as promptly as they disappeared.

See more of Joana Faria and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,1930s, ,A/W 2011, ,Ankolie, ,Blow, ,Cabaret, ,Cherries, ,dalston, ,Diamante, ,Disorder Magazine, ,Drag Queens, ,Frannie’s Pop Up Gallery, ,hats, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mandi Leonard, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,millinery, ,Naomi Law, ,Opium Dens, ,paris, ,piers atkinson, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week: 2010 FAD Junior Awards


Illustration by Abby Wright

It’s always a treat at Fashion Week to find that the show you are about to see, decease starting in the next few minutes, is at a totally different venue to the one you had in your head and are currently standing at. I found myself in this marvellous situation as Tim Soar’s show approached. God knows why I thought it was at Somerset House and not at the Freemason’s Hall. Menswear day brought these kind of surprises all day – with many designers scaling down their presence. I had seen Tim’s show a year ago in the BFC tent, so how dare they move its location?!

I need not have worried as I legged it up Drury Lane, for, true to form, the show was running late and hadn’t even been seated when I showed up. I was right at the back of the queue, though – AGAIN – so decided to perch by the photographer’s pit in the hope of getting a better shot than I would have positioned on one of the back rows.

This show saw Soar draw inspiration from the 1970s, and in particular David Bowie’s character ‘Mr Newton’ in Nicholas Roeg’s epic ‘The Man Who Fell From Earth.’ This inspiration was, in true Tim Soar style, handled with delicacy and acted only as a descrete reference here and there. Trousers flared off, but not in a grotesque fancy dress sense, and lapels were elongated, but not in a Stayin’ Alive, Stayin’ Alive, Hah Hah Hah Hah sense. The bulk of the collection relied on Soar’s showmanship as a really great tailor with a unique vision.


Illustration by Abby Wright

Making the best use of luxe fabrics like mohair, satin, wool crepe and linen, models wore strict suits with a piecemeal utilitarian aesthetic. The use of Tyvek, the waxy crushed industrial material usually reserved for workers boiler suits, also adds to this technical flavour.

Blazers were banded with cummerbund-like straps in contrasting colours – where jackets were dark, the bands were of gold silk, and where jackets were sand, the bands were black. Denim made an appearance, also creating horizontal lines across structured tailoring.

Alongside this semi-formal attire, there were the usual design quirks that Tim Soar is quickly faming himself for. His appreciation of the aesthetic properties of materials and quality of texture was also on display, with crushed materials and bursts of vibrant colour (he is, after all, also a graphic designer).

It’s hard to imagine how a Tyvek jailer-style striped suit will work alongside an exemplary tailored blazer, but somehow Tim Soar’s collections always convey a stylish coherence.

This season also brought more womenswear, which is basically menswear with allowances for hips, busts and bums. It’s a testament to Tim Soar’s generally cool attitude, though, that his aesthetic works wonders on both women and men.


Illustration by Abby Wright

It’s always a treat at Fashion Week to find that the show you are about to see, doctor starting in the next few minutes, is at a totally different venue to the one you had in your head and are currently standing at. I found myself in this marvellous situation as Tim Soar’s show approached. God knows why I thought it was at Somerset House and not at the Freemason’s Hall. Menswear day brought these kind of surprises all day – with many designers scaling down their presence. I had seen Tim’s show a year ago in the BFC tent, so how dare they move its location?!

I need not have worried as I legged it up Drury Lane, for, true to form, the show was running late and hadn’t even been seated when I showed up. I was right at the back of the queue, though – AGAIN – so decided to perch by the photographer’s pit in the hope of getting a better shot than I would have positioned on one of the back rows.

This show saw Soar draw inspiration from the 1970s, and in particular David Bowie’s character ‘Mr Newton’ in Nicholas Roeg’s epic ‘The Man Who Fell From Earth.’ This inspiration was, in true Tim Soar style, handled with delicacy and acted only as a descrete reference here and there. Trousers flared off, but not in a grotesque fancy dress sense, and lapels were elongated, but not in a Stayin’ Alive, Stayin’ Alive, Hah Hah Hah Hah sense. The bulk of the collection relied on Soar’s showmanship as a really great tailor with a unique vision.


Illustration by Abby Wright

Making the best use of luxe fabrics like mohair, satin, wool crepe and linen, models wore strict suits with a piecemeal utilitarian aesthetic. The use of Tyvek, the waxy crushed industrial material usually reserved for workers boiler suits, also adds to this technical flavour.

Blazers were banded with cummerbund-like straps in contrasting colours – where jackets were dark, the bands were of gold silk, and where jackets were sand, the bands were black. Denim made an appearance, also creating horizontal lines across structured tailoring.

Alongside this semi-formal attire, there were the usual design quirks that Tim Soar is quickly faming himself for. His appreciation of the aesthetic properties of materials and quality of texture was also on display, with crushed materials and bursts of vibrant colour (he is, after all, also a graphic designer).

It’s hard to imagine how a Tyvek jailer-style striped suit will work alongside an exemplary tailored blazer, but somehow Tim Soar’s collections always convey a stylish coherence.

This season also brought more womenswear, which is basically menswear with allowances for hips, busts and bums. It’s a testament to Tim Soar’s generally cool attitude, though, that his aesthetic works wonders on both women and men.


Illustration by Yuann Shen

Born in India, sale Stefan Orschel-Read grew up in Scotland, he won gold medals as a dressage rider for Great Britain and also studied law before deciding on a career in fashion. His Central Saint Martins graduate collection in 2008 was based on Virginia Wolfe’s novel ‘Orlando’; a historical biography in which the subject’s lives over 400 years and changes gender mid way. Subsequent collections were inspired by cathedral murals and the works of Shakespeare, so it was interesting to see the RCA graduate’s stimulus for S/S 2011 being something a slightly more conventional.

Entitled ‘The Spy Who Becomes Me’, SS11 is inspired by an imagined playboy youth in the Riviera of the Ligurian Sea and his struggle to evolve into ‘a self-sufficient gentleman of responsibilities’.

Although more subdued than his previous seasons, this sophisticated collection successfully utlilised an array of luxurious fabrics which were expertly tailored and incorporated some distinctive detailing. The tag line of the collection is ’We all have a little bit of espionage in us’, but I doubt Orschel Read would be the best outfitter for a Bond-style spy-on-a-mission who hopes to be easily lost in a crowd.

Looks were presented in a refined palette of greys, soft khakis and airforce blues, punctuated with jewel tones and blazes of iridescence.


Illustration by Yuann Shen

Modern slim-fitting suits with traces of utilitarian military styling, such as extended epaulettes, were created in sumptuous British cashmere tailoring wools and iridescent tonic suiting.  The blazers at the more muted end of the palette were complemented with dupion silk shirts, glowing in emerald and olive tones.

Digitally printed monograms, paisley and bird motifs were applied to boxers and shirt panels, some silk brocade being produced in collaboration with Italian luxury tailor Brioni, apparently the go-to-coutouriers of a whole host of names from Nelson Mandela to Robert Kennedy and Luciano Pavarotti to Donald Trump.

Alongside his blazers and formal trousers, Orschel-Read showed biker jackets in cashmere suiting, jeans named after MI5 and MI6 and gauzy hand dyed and beaded bias cut vests seen under many of the blazers.  Oversized trench coats in pale denim continued the spy theme, and monogrammed underwear was shown with raglan sleeve sweaters with rib detailing.


Illustration by Yuann Shen

Born in India, decease Stefan Orschel-Read grew up in Scotland, he won gold medals as a dressage rider for Great Britain and also studied law before deciding on a career in fashion. His Central Saint Martins graduate collection in 2008 was based on Virginia Wolfe’s novel ‘Orlando’; a historical biography in which the subject’s lives over 400 years and changes gender mid way. Subsequent collections were inspired by cathedral murals and the works of Shakespeare, so it was interesting to see the RCA graduate’s stimulus for S/S 2011 being something a slightly more conventional.

Entitled ‘The Spy Who Becomes Me’, SS11 is inspired by an imagined playboy youth in the Riviera of the Ligurian Sea and his struggle to evolve into ‘a self-sufficient gentleman of responsibilities’.

Although more subdued than his previous seasons, this sophisticated collection successfully utlilised an array of luxurious fabrics which were expertly tailored and incorporated some distinctive detailing. The tag line of the collection is ’We all have a little bit of espionage in us’, but I doubt Orschel Read would be the best outfitter for a Bond-style spy-on-a-mission who hopes to be easily lost in a crowd.

Looks were presented in a refined palette of greys, soft khakis and airforce blues, punctuated with jewel tones and blazes of iridescence.


Illustration by Yuann Shen

Modern slim-fitting suits with traces of utilitarian military styling, such as extended epaulettes, were created in sumptuous British cashmere tailoring wools and iridescent tonic suiting.  The blazers at the more muted end of the palette were complemented with dupion silk shirts, glowing in emerald and olive tones.

Digitally printed monograms, paisley and bird motifs were applied to boxers and shirt panels, some silk brocade being produced in collaboration with Italian luxury tailor Brioni, apparently the go-to-coutouriers of a whole host of names from Nelson Mandela to Robert Kennedy and Luciano Pavarotti to Donald Trump.

Alongside his blazers and formal trousers, Orschel-Read showed biker jackets in cashmere suiting, jeans named after MI5 and MI6 and gauzy hand dyed and beaded bias cut vests seen under many of the blazers.  Oversized trench coats in pale denim continued the spy theme, and monogrammed underwear was shown with raglan sleeve sweaters with rib detailing.

FADAwards-the tightrope walker-Florence Melrose by-Barbara-Ana-G
The Tightrope Walker – an illustration of a dress designed by Florence Melrose, find illustrated by Barbara Ana Gomez.

I’m a bit rubbish when it actually comes to checking what’s what during fashion week – I will generally go to most things that I’m invited to on the grounds that if someone has bothered to invite me then I should generally return the honour by actually turning up. Not so most magazine editors I might add – many was the time that I would swan into a fashion show under the guise of Katie Grand at The Face. She never went, approved and yours truly got the golden tickets.

FAD awards SS2011 - abi daker
Dress by Rebecca Glyn-Blanco of Camden School for Girls. Illustration by Abigail Daker.

FADAwards Keep it secret-by-Barbara-Ana-Gomez
Keep it Secret – illustration of a dress by Sinead Cloonan from City & Islington College by Barbara Ana Gomez.

And as I’ve already mentioned I don’t do queues – not in Tescos, prescription and certainly not during fashion week. To this end my heart sank as I rounded the corner to Freemasons’ Hall and found a line of people streaming down the street. What was this FAD awards malarkey anyway? Heading to the front of the queue I waggled my ticket at an unknown PR person and hoped for the best, so was somewhat surprised to be informed in hushed tones that I was a VIP and could go straight on through. Upstairs in one of the many architecturally fabulous chambers, Matt and I sipped on sweet fizzy stuff as we tried to figure out what this was all about.

FAD-Awards-sketches-Amelias-Magazine-by-kila_kitu
FAD-Awards 2010-Kila Kitu
Dress by Yashodah Rodgers as illustrated by Kila Kitu.

Apparently we’ve been very supportive of FAD in the past, and once I’d looked up our previous coverage it did suddenly all ring a bell. But I wasn’t quite prepared for the sheer unadulterated upbeat joy of this event. Right in the thick of a hectic fashion week it’s a true testament to the achievement of this organisation that I could sit through yet another long catwalk show and come out the other end beaming with goodwill.

LFW_FAD_Awards_Abigail_Nottingham
The European Fashion Designer award winning dress from Paul Vasileff and Shahira Bakhoum. Illustrated by Abigail Nottingham.

FADAwards Flower-Rebecca Glyn-Blanco by-Barbara-Ana-G
Rebecca Glyn-Blanco by Barbara Ana Gomez.

Just to recap quickly, FAD stands for Fashion Awareness Direct and it is a charity that aims to empower young people – as the brochure says “Fashion is a great way to connect with young people from different backgrounds, to give them confidence and raise their aspirations for the future.”

FAD awards SS2011 - Adam Preece by Abi Daker
Adam Preece by Abigail Daker.

LFW_FAD_awards Chelsey Ward by Abigail-Nottingham
Chelsey Ward by Abigail Nottingham.

Last year we covered the undergraduates awards show, but this year we were in for a much younger treat: the FAD Junior Awards showcased the designs of finalists chosen from 130 teenagers aged 16-19. Yes dear reader, you may well have to keep pinching yourself as you take a look through the images. I know I did, and I was sitting right there when they paraded past. Created over the course of five days at the University of East London with the help of an experienced team of tutors, the outfits put together by these young designers would put many graduates to shame.

LFW_FAD_Awards Karmen-Marie Parker by Abigail_Nottingham
Karmen-Marie Parker by Abigail Nottingham.

FAD-Awards-Natalie Goreham by-kila_kitu
Natalie Goreham by Kila Kitu.

To start off the evening’s events previous finalist Prash Muraleetharan took to the stage with a bit of confident advice, endearingly delivered. “It’s what you do with this moment which determines a winner…. so get upstairs and network,” he advised, somewhat sagely. At the end he winked. And I’m sure he winked at me. Blimey… what a charmer… it’s quite hard to countenance that Prash must still be a teenager, and yet he already runs his own fashion label with a website and everything.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prash Muraleetharan dispels his words of wisdom at the start of the ceremony. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

After the V&A inspired catwalk show we had speeches from the sleek Susan Aubrey-Cound of M&S and Lucy Jones of UEL, followed by the prizegiving by the extremely fabulous Zandra Rhodes, who is *the cutest* when she smiles! The winners and their parents looked so overwhelmed it really did warm the cockles of my jaded fashionista heart.

Zandra-Rhodes-FAD-Awards-2010-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Zandra Rhodes by Antonia Parker. I wuv her.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Vasileff and Shahira Bakhoum of Milan step up first to take the prize for the European Fashion Designer Competition, which was the culmination of a two year project.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Karmen-Marie Parker with her winning design shortly before she burst into tears… aw, bless.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Andre Augusto: pattern cutting award winner.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Research award winner Sarah Kilkenny.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
17 year old David Short – the first boy to become overall winner and a proper little fashionista in the making.

Within this blog you’ll find my favourite pieces to hit the runway – and just remember, they were all designed and made by 16-19 year olds. Quite astonishing I’m sure you’ll agree.

FAD junior awards 2010 Shomari Williams photo by Amelia Gregory
Shomari Williams.

FAD junior awards 2010 Emily Rogers photo by Amelia Gregory
Yashodah Rodgers.

FAD junior awards 2010 Charlie Ibouillie photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Ibouillie.

FAD junior awards 2010 Sinead Cloonan photo by Amelia Gregory
Sinead Cloonan.

FAD junior awards 2010 European winners photo by Amelia Gregory
FAD junior awards 2010 European winners photo by Amelia Gregory
The winner of the European competition.

FAD junior awards 2010 Rebecca Glyn-Blanco photo by Amelia Gregory
Rebecca Glyn-Blanco.

FAD junior awards 2010 Natalie Goreham photo by Amelia Gregory
Natalie Goreham.

FAD junior awards 2010 Florence Melrose photo by Amelia Gregory
Florence Melrose.

FAD junior awards 2010 Misbah Siddique photo by Amelia Gregory
Misbah Siddique.

FAD junior awards 2010 Zandra Rhodes photo by Amelia Gregory
And another completely gratuitous shot of Zandra because this post isn’t long enough already. Because I WUV HER.

Categories ,Abigail Daker, ,Abigail Nottingham, ,Adam Preece, ,Andre Augusto, ,Antonia Parker, ,Barbara Ana Gomez, ,Charlie Ibouillie, ,Chelsey Ward, ,City & Islington College, ,David Short, ,European Fashion Designer Competition, ,FAD, ,FAD Junior Awards, ,Fashion Scout, ,Florence Melrose, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karmen-Marie Parker, ,Katie Grand, ,Kila Kitu, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Jones, ,M&S, ,Misbah Siddique, ,Natalie Goreham, ,Paul Vasileff, ,Prash London, ,Prash Muraleetharan, ,Rebecca Glyn-Blanco, ,Salford City College, ,Sarah Kilkenny, ,Shahira Bakhoum, ,Shomari Williams, ,Sinead Cloonan, ,Susan Aubrey-Cound, ,The Face, ,University of East London, ,va, ,Yashodah Rodgers, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week: 2010 FAD Junior Awards

FADAwards-the tightrope walker-Florence Melrose by-Barbara-Ana-G
The Tightrope Walker – an illustration of a dress designed by Florence Melrose, illustrated by Barbara Ana Gomez.

I’m a bit rubbish when it actually comes to checking what’s what during fashion week – I will generally go to most things that I’m invited to on the grounds that if someone has bothered to invite me then I should generally return the honour by actually turning up. Not so most magazine editors I might add – many was the time that I would swan into a fashion show under the guise of Katie Grand at The Face. She never went, and yours truly got the golden tickets.

FAD awards SS2011 - abi daker
Dress by Rebecca Glyn-Blanco of Camden School for Girls. Illustration by Abigail Daker.

FADAwards Keep it secret-by-Barbara-Ana-Gomez
Keep it Secret – illustration of a dress by Sinead Cloonan from City & Islington College by Barbara Ana Gomez.

And as I’ve already mentioned I don’t do queues – not in Tescos, and certainly not during fashion week. To this end my heart sank as I rounded the corner to Freemasons’ Hall and found a line of people streaming down the street. What was this FAD awards malarkey anyway? Heading to the front of the queue I waggled my ticket at an unknown PR person and hoped for the best, so was somewhat surprised to be informed in hushed tones that I was a VIP and could go straight on through. Upstairs in one of the many architecturally fabulous chambers, Matt and I sipped on sweet fizzy stuff as we tried to figure out what this was all about.

FAD-Awards-sketches-Amelias-Magazine-by-kila_kitu
FAD-Awards 2010-Kila Kitu
Dress by Yashodah Rodgers as illustrated by Kila Kitu.

Apparently we’ve been very supportive of FAD in the past, and once I’d looked up our previous coverage it did suddenly all ring a bell. But I wasn’t quite prepared for the sheer unadulterated upbeat joy of this event. Right in the thick of a hectic fashion week it’s a true testament to the achievement of this organisation that I could sit through yet another long catwalk show and come out the other end beaming with goodwill.

LFW_FAD_Awards_Abigail_Nottingham
The European Fashion Designer award winning dress from Paul Vasileff and Shahira Bakhoum. Illustrated by Abigail Nottingham.

FADAwards Flower-Rebecca Glyn-Blanco by-Barbara-Ana-G
Rebecca Glyn-Blanco by Barbara Ana Gomez.

Just to recap quickly, FAD stands for Fashion Awareness Direct and it is a charity that aims to empower young people – as the brochure says “Fashion is a great way to connect with young people from different backgrounds, to give them confidence and raise their aspirations for the future.”

FAD awards SS2011 - Adam Preece by Abi Daker
Adam Preece by Abigail Daker.

LFW_FAD_awards Chelsey Ward by Abigail-Nottingham
Chelsey Ward by Abigail Nottingham.

Last year we covered the undergraduates awards show, but this year we were in for a much younger treat: the FAD Junior Awards showcased the designs of finalists chosen from 130 teenagers aged 16-19. Yes dear reader, you may well have to keep pinching yourself as you take a look through the images. I know I did, and I was sitting right there when they paraded past. Created over the course of five days at the University of East London with the help of an experienced team of tutors, the outfits put together by these young designers would put many graduates to shame.

LFW_FAD_Awards Karmen-Marie Parker by Abigail_Nottingham
Karmen-Marie Parker by Abigail Nottingham.

FAD-Awards-Natalie Goreham by-kila_kitu
Natalie Goreham by Kila Kitu.

To start off the evening’s events previous finalist Prash Muraleetharan took to the stage with a bit of confident advice, endearingly delivered. “It’s what you do with this moment which determines a winner…. so get upstairs and network,” he advised, somewhat sagely. At the end he winked. And I’m sure he winked at me. Blimey… what a charmer… it’s quite hard to countenance that Prash must still be a teenager, and yet he already runs his own fashion label with a website and everything.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Prash Muraleetharan dispels his words of wisdom at the start of the ceremony. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

After the V&A inspired catwalk show we had speeches from the sleek Susan Aubrey-Cound of M&S and Lucy Jones of UEL, followed by the prizegiving by the extremely fabulous Zandra Rhodes, who is *the cutest* when she smiles! The winners and their parents looked so overwhelmed it really did warm the cockles of my jaded fashionista heart.

Zandra-Rhodes-FAD-Awards-2010-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Zandra Rhodes by Antonia Parker. I wuv her.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Vasileff and Shahira Bakhoum of Milan step up first to take the prize for the European Fashion Designer Competition, which was the culmination of a two year project.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Karmen-Marie Parker with her winning design shortly before she burst into tears… aw, bless.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Andre Augusto: pattern cutting award winner.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
Research award winner Sarah Kilkenny.

FAD junior awards 2010 photo by Amelia Gregory
17 year old David Short – the first boy to become overall winner and a proper little fashionista in the making.

Within this blog you’ll find my favourite pieces to hit the runway – and just remember, they were all designed and made by 16-19 year olds. Quite astonishing I’m sure you’ll agree.

FAD junior awards 2010 Shomari Williams photo by Amelia Gregory
Shomari Williams.

FAD junior awards 2010 Emily Rogers photo by Amelia Gregory
Yashodah Rodgers.

FAD junior awards 2010 Charlie Ibouillie photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie Ibouillie.

FAD junior awards 2010 Sinead Cloonan photo by Amelia Gregory
Sinead Cloonan.

FAD junior awards 2010 European winners photo by Amelia Gregory
FAD junior awards 2010 European winners photo by Amelia Gregory
The winner of the European competition.

FAD junior awards 2010 Rebecca Glyn-Blanco photo by Amelia Gregory
Rebecca Glyn-Blanco.

FAD junior awards 2010 Natalie Goreham photo by Amelia Gregory
Natalie Goreham.

FAD junior awards 2010 Florence Melrose photo by Amelia Gregory
Florence Melrose.

FAD junior awards 2010 Misbah Siddique photo by Amelia Gregory
Misbah Siddique.

FAD junior awards 2010 Zandra Rhodes photo by Amelia Gregory
And another completely gratuitous shot of Zandra because this post isn’t long enough already. Because I WUV HER.

Categories ,Abigail Daker, ,Abigail Nottingham, ,Adam Preece, ,Andre Augusto, ,Antonia Parker, ,Barbara Ana Gomez, ,Charlie Ibouillie, ,Chelsey Ward, ,City & Islington College, ,David Short, ,European Fashion Designer Competition, ,FAD, ,FAD Junior Awards, ,Fashion Scout, ,Florence Melrose, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karmen-Marie Parker, ,Katie Grand, ,Kila Kitu, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Jones, ,M&S, ,Misbah Siddique, ,Natalie Goreham, ,Paul Vasileff, ,Prash London, ,Prash Muraleetharan, ,Rebecca Glyn-Blanco, ,Salford City College, ,Sarah Kilkenny, ,Shahira Bakhoum, ,Shomari Williams, ,Sinead Cloonan, ,Susan Aubrey-Cound, ,The Face, ,University of East London, ,va, ,Yashodah Rodgers, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Betty Jackson

Real Estate Band

I went down to The Lexington a couple of weeks ago to interview Real Estate before they played a sold out gig in a city they had never played before. During the course of the interview Real Estate and I went on a journey… literally, for sale illness a journey, we started off upstairs, went down stairs, sat in a booth for a while, moved in to a stairwell where the door constantly opened in to my back, but don’t worry, I remained ruthlessly professional in my journalistic pursuit of the truth… sort of.

I met with guitarist/singer Martin Courtney and bassist Alex Bleeker. Martin was really sweet, in a slightly sweaty, nervous kind of way. Alex Bleeker was nice too, but in a more standoffish way, but maybe that’s just the way he talks, I felt like at times he was testing me. The word ‘like’ was used incessantly by both, but in an endearing way which was totally in keeping with their chill-wave-psychedelic-surfer-style music. They gave me 15 minutes of their time to talk Jersey, The Boss, Paul McCartney and the joys of recording in analogue as opposed to digital. Enjoy.

Georgie: How would you define your sound?

Martin Courtney: Um I don’t know its just the sound that like we kind of play we didn’t set out to sound in a specific way, its all kind of like a group process so its kind of like the sound that we make when we play together

G: Was your lo-fi sound a deliberate decision or product of your circumstance at the time of recording?

Alex Bleeker: We decided to record on tape, analogue rather than digital just because we think that sounds better when your dealing with sort of the lower end of the recording process which is all that was available to us, so I guess that was the only sort of aspect of that decision that we consciously made, we feel like lo-fi analogue is better than lo-fi digital.

Martin: If we don’t have the means to record really well then we should probably just embrace the faults that are going to happen.

G: If for the next album if you had the money and time, would you make a more studio base album with a more polished sound?

Martin: I think we would be in to recording in a studio but you can still have it sound more polished and not sound bad.

Bleeker: We would still want it to be homey and warm and unique.

Martin: We would still want it to be recorded on tape for sure.

Real Estate Psyche

G: Have you found now you have become part of a scene?

Bleeker: I don’t know about giving it names, but there is definitely a nice community that we have become part of that’s really supportive.

G: Do you being labelled is important to prevent it becoming lumped in the ‘Indie’ pile?

Martin: Its more of a tool for journalists, and it can’t hurt when your band gets associated with another band people will have heard of, I guess it helps them decide whether or not people want to listen to it. But its kind of weird because there are so many weird genres that people have invented, even over the past year… like Chill Wave or whatever? They are all, like, so kind of silly.

Bleeker: There are a couple of bands that we have been associated with that we look up to and admire, so that can be really flattering.

G: I saw on your Myspace that one of your influences is Bruce Springsteen?

Martin: Yeah well that’s just, like, we can’t help it; me, Bleeker and Matt all grew up in Jersey…

Bleeker: He’s like the musical paramount.

real-estate sky castle

G: You toured with Girls recently, who would you like to tour with next?

Martin: We’ve been really lucky because we got to tour with Girls and we all really like them, we’re all like really big fans of Woods and we’re touring with them next month, and there are friends too, and there’s a possibility we might tour with Kurt Vile who we’re all really in to as well, we’ve been lucky in that we got to tour with people we all really admire.

Bleeker: We would like to tour with (insert list of inaudible yet cutting edge, avant garde bands)

Martin: Yeah pretty much any band we can all agree on… Paul McCartney?

G: You’re playing Primavera this summer right? Is that going to be your first European festival?

Martin: We are playing the Great Escape festival first

Bleeker: Yeah I’d say we’re really excited to be on the same bill as Pavement, Panda Bear, Pixies, the three P’s

G: How have the English crowds been responding to Real Estate?

Bleeker: Good

Martin: Yeah it’s been really positive; we got contacted by people from the UK really early on, so I feel like there was already a fan base here.

Real Estate Live

G: I read in an interview that you guys like to play house shows? Is this something you still do? Sub question… My friends are having a house party tonight…

Martin: Really? That would be cool. I am not sure on such short notice, if you’d asked us earlier we definitely would have done it. We really like doing them, especially because a lot of the shows we do in the States are like 21 and up so a lot of people don’t get to come otherwise and its really just a lot of fun to play in peoples living rooms.

G: Do you prefer writing/recording or playing live?

Martin: Probably writing/recording it’s more fun, like, recording for all of us is like a hobby that we all have, its part of the song writing process.

Bleeker: I like both, it used to be that I liked performing most of all but I think that’s changed, the recording process can add an entirely new element to the art form itself or it can be an art form in itself you can get a bit more creative and you have more control than necessarily do over a live sound

Martin: playing live is definitely fun but I think writing and recording is more fulfilling, you get a lot more out of it.

G : There are so many amazing bands coming out of the East Coast right now, I was wondering if you could recommend some that we wouldn’t necessarily have heard of over here yet?

Bleeker: Um… Big Trouble, Mountain Man, Andrew Cedarmark

Martin: Yeah Andrew is this kid we grew up with and Big Troubles too they went our high school, they are a couple of years younger than us

G: What was your favourtite album of last year?

Martin: Julian Lynch – ‘Orange you Glad’ or Woods – ‘The Songs of Shame’

Bleeker: I don’t know about favourite albums, but I think Kurt Vile’s album ‘Childish Prodigy’ was met with underwhelming praise.
Real Estate Band

I went down to The Lexington a couple of weeks ago to interview Real Estate before they played a sold out gig in a city they had never played before. During the course of the interview Real Estate and I went on a journey… literally, case a journey, cost we started off upstairs, buy went down stairs, sat in a booth for a while, moved in to a stairwell where the door constantly opened in to my back, but don’t worry, I remained ruthlessly professional in my journalistic pursuit of the truth… sort of.

I met with guitarist/singer Martin Courtney and bassist Alex Bleeker. Martin was really sweet, in a slightly sweaty, nervous kind of way. Alex Bleeker was nice too, but in a more standoffish way, but maybe that’s just the way he talks, I felt like at times he was testing me. The word ‘like’ was used incessantly by both, but in an endearing way which was totally in keeping with their chill-wave-psychedelic-surfer-style music. They gave me 15 minutes of their time to talk Jersey, The Boss, Paul McCartney and the joys of recording in analogue as opposed to digital. Enjoy.

Georgie: How would you define your sound?

Martin Courtney: Um I don’t know its just the sound that like we kind of play we didn’t set out to sound in a specific way, its all kind of like a group process so its kind of like the sound that we make when we play together

G: Was your lo-fi sound a deliberate decision or product of your circumstance at the time of recording?

Alex Bleeker: We decided to record on tape, analogue rather than digital just because we think that sounds better when your dealing with sort of the lower end of the recording process which is all that was available to us, so I guess that was the only sort of aspect of that decision that we consciously made, we feel like lo-fi analogue is better than lo-fi digital.

Martin: If we don’t have the means to record really well then we should probably just embrace the faults that are going to happen.

G: If for the next album if you had the money and time, would you make a more studio base album with a more polished sound?

Martin: I think we would be in to recording in a studio but you can still have it sound more polished and not sound bad.

Bleeker: We would still want it to be homey and warm and unique.

Martin: We would still want it to be recorded on tape for sure.

Real Estate Psyche

G: Have you found now you have become part of a scene?

Bleeker: I don’t know about giving it names, but there is definitely a nice community that we have become part of that’s really supportive.

G: Do you being labelled is important to prevent it becoming lumped in the ‘Indie’ pile?

Martin: Its more of a tool for journalists, and it can’t hurt when your band gets associated with another band people will have heard of, I guess it helps them decide whether or not people want to listen to it. But its kind of weird because there are so many weird genres that people have invented, even over the past year… like Chill Wave or whatever? They are all, like, so kind of silly.

Bleeker: There are a couple of bands that we have been associated with that we look up to and admire, so that can be really flattering.

G: I saw on your Myspace that one of your influences is Bruce Springsteen?

Martin: Yeah well that’s just, like, we can’t help it; me, Bleeker and Matt all grew up in Jersey…

Bleeker: He’s like the musical paramount.

real-estate sky castle

G: You toured with Girls recently, who would you like to tour with next?

Martin: We’ve been really lucky because we got to tour with Girls and we all really like them, we’re all like really big fans of Woods and we’re touring with them next month, and there are friends too, and there’s a possibility we might tour with Kurt Vile who we’re all really in to as well, we’ve been lucky in that we got to tour with people we all really admire.

Bleeker: We would like to tour with (insert list of inaudible yet cutting edge, avant garde bands)

Martin: Yeah pretty much any band we can all agree on… Paul McCartney?

G: You’re playing Primavera this summer right? Is that going to be your first European festival?

Martin: We are playing the Great Escape festival first

Bleeker: Yeah I’d say we’re really excited to be on the same bill as Pavement, Panda Bear, Pixies, the three P’s

G: How have the English crowds been responding to Real Estate?

Bleeker: Good

Martin: Yeah it’s been really positive; we got contacted by people from the UK really early on, so I feel like there was already a fan base here.

Real Estate Live

G: I read in an interview that you guys like to play house shows? Is this something you still do? Sub question… My friends are having a house party tonight…

Martin: Really? That would be cool. I am not sure on such short notice, if you’d asked us earlier we definitely would have done it. We really like doing them, especially because a lot of the shows we do in the States are like 21 and up so a lot of people don’t get to come otherwise and its really just a lot of fun to play in peoples living rooms.

G: Do you prefer writing/recording or playing live?

Martin: Probably writing/recording it’s more fun, like, recording for all of us is like a hobby that we all have, its part of the song writing process.

Bleeker: I like both, it used to be that I liked performing most of all but I think that’s changed, the recording process can add an entirely new element to the art form itself or it can be an art form in itself you can get a bit more creative and you have more control than necessarily do over a live sound

Martin: playing live is definitely fun but I think writing and recording is more fulfilling, you get a lot more out of it.

G : There are so many amazing bands coming out of the East Coast right now, I was wondering if you could recommend some that we wouldn’t necessarily have heard of over here yet?

Bleeker: Um… Big Trouble, Mountain Man, Andrew Cedarmark

Martin: Yeah Andrew is this kid we grew up with and Big Troubles too they went our high school, they are a couple of years younger than us

G: What was your favourtite album of last year?

Martin: Julian Lynch – ‘Orange you Glad’ or Woods – ‘The Songs of Shame’

Bleeker: I don’t know about favourite albums, but I think Kurt Vile’s album ‘Childish Prodigy’ was met with underwhelming praise.
Real Estate Band

I went down to The Lexington a couple of weeks ago to interview Real Estate before they played a sold out gig in a city they had never played before. During the course of the interview Real Estate and I went on a journey… literally, information pills a journey, clinic we started off upstairs, went down stairs, sat in a booth for a while, moved in to a stairwell where the door constantly opened in to my back, but don’t worry, I remained ruthlessly professional in my journalistic pursuit of the truth… sort of.

I met with guitarist/singer Martin Courtney and bassist Alex Bleeker. Martin was really sweet, in a slightly sweaty, nervous kind of way. Alex Bleeker was nice too, but in a more standoffish way, but maybe that’s just the way he talks, I felt like at times he was testing me. The word ‘like’ was used incessantly by both, but in an endearing way which was totally in keeping with their chill-wave-psychedelic-surfer-style music. They gave me 15 minutes of their time to talk Jersey, The Boss, Paul McCartney and the joys of recording in analogue as opposed to digital. Enjoy.

Georgie: How would you define your sound?

Martin Courtney: Um I don’t know its just the sound that like we kind of play we didn’t set out to sound in a specific way, its all kind of like a group process so its kind of like the sound that we make when we play together

G: Was your lo-fi sound a deliberate decision or product of your circumstance at the time of recording?

Alex Bleeker: We decided to record on tape, analogue rather than digital just because we think that sounds better when your dealing with sort of the lower end of the recording process which is all that was available to us, so I guess that was the only sort of aspect of that decision that we consciously made, we feel like lo-fi analogue is better than lo-fi digital.

Martin: If we don’t have the means to record really well then we should probably just embrace the faults that are going to happen.

G: If for the next album if you had the money and time, would you make a more studio base album with a more polished sound?

Martin: I think we would be in to recording in a studio but you can still have it sound more polished and not sound bad.

Bleeker: We would still want it to be homey and warm and unique.

Martin: We would still want it to be recorded on tape for sure.

Real Estate Psyche

G: Have you found now you have become part of a scene?

Bleeker: I don’t know about giving it names, but there is definitely a nice community that we have become part of that’s really supportive.

G: Do you being labelled is important to prevent it becoming lumped in the ‘Indie’ pile?

Martin: Its more of a tool for journalists, and it can’t hurt when your band gets associated with another band people will have heard of, I guess it helps them decide whether or not people want to listen to it. But its kind of weird because there are so many weird genres that people have invented, even over the past year… like Chill Wave or whatever? They are all, like, so kind of silly.

Bleeker: There are a couple of bands that we have been associated with that we look up to and admire, so that can be really flattering.

G: I saw on your Myspace that one of your influences is Bruce Springsteen?

Martin: Yeah well that’s just, like, we can’t help it; me, Bleeker and Matt all grew up in Jersey…

Bleeker: He’s like the musical paramount.

real-estate sky castle

G: You toured with Girls recently, who would you like to tour with next?

Martin: We’ve been really lucky because we got to tour with Girls and we all really like them, we’re all like really big fans of Woods and we’re touring with them next month, and there are friends too, and there’s a possibility we might tour with Kurt Vile who we’re all really in to as well, we’ve been lucky in that we got to tour with people we all really admire.

Bleeker: We would like to tour with (insert list of inaudible yet cutting edge, avant garde bands)

Martin: Yeah pretty much any band we can all agree on… Paul McCartney?

G: You’re playing Primavera this summer right? Is that going to be your first European festival?

Martin: We are playing the Great Escape festival first

Bleeker: Yeah I’d say we’re really excited to be on the same bill as Pavement, Panda Bear, Pixies, the three P’s

G: How have the English crowds been responding to Real Estate?

Bleeker: Good

Martin: Yeah it’s been really positive; we got contacted by people from the UK really early on, so I feel like there was already a fan base here.

Real Estate Live

G: I read in an interview that you guys like to play house shows? Is this something you still do? Sub question… My friends are having a house party tonight…

Martin: Really? That would be cool. I am not sure on such short notice, if you’d asked us earlier we definitely would have done it. We really like doing them, especially because a lot of the shows we do in the States are like 21 and up so a lot of people don’t get to come otherwise and its really just a lot of fun to play in peoples living rooms.

G: Do you prefer writing/recording or playing live?

Martin: Probably writing/recording it’s more fun, like, recording for all of us is like a hobby that we all have, its part of the song writing process.

Bleeker: I like both, it used to be that I liked performing most of all but I think that’s changed, the recording process can add an entirely new element to the art form itself or it can be an art form in itself you can get a bit more creative and you have more control than necessarily do over a live sound

Martin: playing live is definitely fun but I think writing and recording is more fulfilling, you get a lot more out of it.

G : There are so many amazing bands coming out of the East Coast right now, I was wondering if you could recommend some that we wouldn’t necessarily have heard of over here yet?

Bleeker: Um… Big Trouble, Mountain Man, Andrew Cedarmark

Martin: Yeah Andrew is this kid we grew up with and Big Troubles too they went our high school, they are a couple of years younger than us

G: What was your favourtite album of last year?

Martin: Julian Lynch – ‘Orange you Glad’ or Woods – ‘The Songs of Shame’

Bleeker: I don’t know about favourite albums, but I think Kurt Vile’s album ‘Childish Prodigy’ was met with underwhelming praise.
Real Estate Band

I went down to The Lexington a couple of weeks ago to interview Real Estate before they played a sold out gig in a city they had never played before. During the course of the interview Real Estate and I went on a journey… literally, sale a journey, case we started off upstairs, dosage went down stairs, sat in a booth for a while, moved in to a stairwell where the door constantly opened in to my back, but don’t worry, I remained ruthlessly professional in my journalistic pursuit of the truth… sort of.

I met with guitarist/singer Martin Courtney and bassist Alex Bleeker. Martin was really sweet, in a slightly sweaty, nervous kind of way. Alex Bleeker was nice too, but in a more standoffish way, but maybe that’s just the way he talks, I felt like at times he was testing me. The word ‘like’ was used incessantly by both, but in an endearing way which was totally in keeping with their chill-wave-psychedelic-surfer-style music. They gave me 15 minutes of their time to talk Jersey, The Boss, Paul McCartney and the joys of recording in analogue as opposed to digital. Enjoy.

Georgie: How would you define your sound?

Martin Courtney: Um I don’t know its just the sound that like we kind of play we didn’t set out to sound in a specific way, its all kind of like a group process so its kind of like the sound that we make when we play together

G: Was your lo-fi sound a deliberate decision or product of your circumstance at the time of recording?

Alex Bleeker: We decided to record on tape, analogue rather than digital just because we think that sounds better when your dealing with sort of the lower end of the recording process which is all that was available to us, so I guess that was the only sort of aspect of that decision that we consciously made, we feel like lo-fi analogue is better than lo-fi digital.

Martin: If we don’t have the means to record really well then we should probably just embrace the faults that are going to happen.

G: If for the next album if you had the money and time, would you make a more studio base album with a more polished sound?

Martin: I think we would be in to recording in a studio but you can still have it sound more polished and not sound bad.

Bleeker: We would still want it to be homey and warm and unique.

Martin: We would still want it to be recorded on tape for sure.

Real Estate Psyche

G: Have you found now you have become part of a scene?

Bleeker: I don’t know about giving it names, but there is definitely a nice community that we have become part of that’s really supportive.

G: Do you being labelled is important to prevent it becoming lumped in the ‘Indie’ pile?

Martin: Its more of a tool for journalists, and it can’t hurt when your band gets associated with another band people will have heard of, I guess it helps them decide whether or not people want to listen to it. But its kind of weird because there are so many weird genres that people have invented, even over the past year… like Chill Wave or whatever? They are all, like, so kind of silly.

Bleeker: There are a couple of bands that we have been associated with that we look up to and admire, so that can be really flattering.

G: I saw on your Myspace that one of your influences is Bruce Springsteen?

Martin: Yeah well that’s just, like, we can’t help it; me, Bleeker and Matt all grew up in Jersey…

Bleeker: He’s like the musical paramount.

real-estate sky castle

G: You toured with Girls recently, who would you like to tour with next?

Martin: We’ve been really lucky because we got to tour with Girls and we all really like them, we’re all like really big fans of Woods and we’re touring with them next month, and there are friends too, and there’s a possibility we might tour with Kurt Vile who we’re all really in to as well, we’ve been lucky in that we got to tour with people we all really admire.

Bleeker: We would like to tour with (insert list of inaudible yet cutting edge, avant garde bands)

Martin: Yeah pretty much any band we can all agree on… Paul McCartney?

G: You’re playing Primavera this summer right? Is that going to be your first European festival?

Martin: We are playing the Great Escape festival first

Bleeker: Yeah I’d say we’re really excited to be on the same bill as Pavement, Panda Bear, Pixies, the three P’s

G: How have the English crowds been responding to Real Estate?

Bleeker: Good

Martin: Yeah it’s been really positive; we got contacted by people from the UK really early on, so I feel like there was already a fan base here.

Real Estate Live

G: I read in an interview that you guys like to play house shows? Is this something you still do? Sub question… My friends are having a house party tonight…

Martin: Really? That would be cool. I am not sure on such short notice, if you’d asked us earlier we definitely would have done it. We really like doing them, especially because a lot of the shows we do in the States are like 21 and up so a lot of people don’t get to come otherwise and its really just a lot of fun to play in peoples living rooms.

G: Do you prefer writing/recording or playing live?

Martin: Probably writing/recording it’s more fun, like, recording for all of us is like a hobby that we all have, its part of the song writing process.

Bleeker: I like both, it used to be that I liked performing most of all but I think that’s changed, the recording process can add an entirely new element to the art form itself or it can be an art form in itself you can get a bit more creative and you have more control than necessarily do over a live sound

Martin: playing live is definitely fun but I think writing and recording is more fulfilling, you get a lot more out of it.

G : There are so many amazing bands coming out of the East Coast right now, I was wondering if you could recommend some that we wouldn’t necessarily have heard of over here yet?

Bleeker: Um… Big Trouble, Mountain Man, Andrew Cedarmark

Martin: Yeah Andrew is this kid we grew up with and Big Troubles too they went our high school, they are a couple of years younger than us

G: What was your favourtite album of last year?

Martin: Julian Lynch – ‘Orange you Glad’ or Woods – ‘The Songs of Shame’

Bleeker: I don’t know about favourite albums, but I think Kurt Vile’s album ‘Childish Prodigy’ was met with underwhelming praise.
BettyJacksonAW10_SarojPatelIllustration beautifully created by Saroj Patel.

Despite my best efforts to ignore my alarm yesterday morning (much to my boyfriend’s annoyance), side effects I still managed to make the 9am showcase of Betty Jackson’s AW10 collection. Having risen much earlier than I would normally care to on a Sunday (with the days of enforced church visits long behind me), find I had a spring in my step and a positive outlook on the day – at least until it started lashing with rain.

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Luckily Betty didn’t disappoint and put on a cracking show, totally worth any early morning wake-up call. I would even go as far as to say this was my favourite show of the season so far, where each and every garment was a vision of beauty, winking at me and trying to tempt and seduce me to part with my hard earned cash (or should I say Job Seekers Allowance?!)

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JSA was certainly the last thing on Betty’s mind, for her AW10 collection models were dripping with expensive looking tan leather embellishments and accessories, luxurious furs and heavy brocades – so beautiful and opulent that they wouldn’t be out of place as soft furnishings in a posh stately home. Balancing amazingly well on vertiginous heels, the models sashayed down the catwalk in quick succession with Betty hitting us again and again – and again – with strong look after look, producing the most relevant, feminine and flirty collection I’ve seen so far.

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As a designer who unsurprisingly has a huge following, Betty stayed true to her trademark design aesthetic producing a collection of ultra-chic pieces that are perfect for all occasions, possessing the versatility that can carry them from day to night, also looking perfect for trans seasonal wear. With the colour brown featuring heavily in each look, the collection had a great autumnal feel with light mackintoshes, cropped trousers and dresses a plenty. As a lover of textiles and textures alike I had many favourite pieces, from the military influenced sleeveless blouse and matching mini skirt combo to the gorgeous belted leopard print furs, overcoats and trousers. I also loved Betty’s use of cord, one of my favourite and most luxurious fabrics, partnering it with gold lame tops and overcoats.

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Chunky knitwear also made a welcome return to the catwalk with Betty creating her own spin on the traditional Argyle jumper, instead using what appeared to be a python print. With this fashion forward thinking; Betty proved exactly why she is one of Britain’s most loved women’s wear designers at the forefront of her game.

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Categories ,AW10 collection, ,Betty Jackson, ,Erin O’Connor, ,Hillary Alexander, ,Job Seekers Allowance, ,lfw, ,Saroj Patel, ,Zandra Rhodes

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