Amelia’s Magazine | Craig Green, MAN: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Craig Green A/W 2014 by Avril Kelly

I’m a huge fan of Joyride, I go wild for The Look and there’s no denying that It Must Have Been Love is one of the greatest rock power ballads ever written, but my favourite Roxette song is, without a shadow of a doubt, Listen to Your Heart. I’m telling you. No question. So imagine the feeling of overwhelming pleasure that I experienced when Craig Green, last up on the Fashion East MAN roster, had chosen it to soundtrack his show.

I could barely focus my camera as those magical, haunting opening bars played. When Marie starts belting it out I almost lost it, but managed to get a grip in the name of fashion journalism. The song created a sombre mood and this collection seemed a bit sorrowful, too: gone were the conceptual fabric planks and box rucksacks that earned Green a Designs of the Year nomination; gone were last season’s psychedelic sculptures that gave his critics the middle finger.

No, this collection seemed like a progressive, grown-up step for Green. To suggest that he’d lost his way would be missing the point – utilitarian leather harnesses replaced the artistic sculptures but still toyed with the silhouette, and hand-painted prints that steer clear of anything over-digital continued the Craig Green story.

Models wearing head to toe black gowns that brushed along the floor cut almost cardinal-like figures. Not a single piece gave any indication as to what the models’ bodies looked like under their robes. Black cottons, leather and shimmery fabrics worked together effortlessly. The mesmerising print in varying tones of yellow, orange and blue created the illusion that similar garments were completely different to their monochrome counterparts.

While this might hint at a more commercial direction, whatever Craig produces will continue to inspire. I can’t wait to see what happens when he steps out solo next season.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Avril Kelly, ,AW14, ,catwalk, ,Craig Green, ,Fashion East, ,LCMAW2014, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Man, ,Matt Bramford, ,review, ,Roxette

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