Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Tata Naka

Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day
Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day.

Turning up to the Tata Naka presentation I had very little idea of what to expect but I had been most intrigued by their invitation, try a dance card with mini pencil attached as if to list dances. I have always loved Tata Naka; their combination of colourful painted print designs and loose fitting but cleverly cut shapes is right up my street.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The presentation was held in the Portico Rooms and as I walked in I felt as though I’d chanced upon a private studio session. Huge lights, photographer, cure stylist. It took me right back to the days when I spent a lot of time loitering around on fashion shoots for magazines such as The Face and I-D. And, it turns out that this was the entire intention. By combining their time in Somerset House with the creation of look book images, Tata Naka had very cleverly made the most of their time and money as well as opening up the creative process for all to see. Absolutely genius.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The shoot had been going for some hours when I arrived, and the team were onto the last look of the day – seven girls clad in fabulously colourful drop waist, oversized and kaftan shaped tropical dresses. For S/S 2012 Tata Naka were inspired by 1950s east coast chic, combined with flowery resort glamour… and these last garments screamed Aloha.

Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey
Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey.

The models stood in formation on chairs against a black background with rose petals scattered across the floor, in an approximation of a famous Pina Bausch dance sequence. The much loved choreographer’s work had inspired the whole shoot, hence the dance card invitations.

Tata Naka Fashion Illustration By Vicky Newman
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Vicky Newman.

Attendees were served fresh lemonade in Tata Naka themed bottles decorated with carnations as we circulated around the shoot. We were able to take our own photos and see the others on a computer screen as the team scrutinised the latest official shots.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Twin sisters Tamara and Natasha Surguladze graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2000, and their label, Tata Naka, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary recently. The brand, which encompasses diffusion lines Stolen Memories and Tata Naka Shrunk for children, is celebrated worldwide yet curiously they have no stockists in the UK. It seems utterly bizarre to me that these talented designers are not more widely feted in the country where they trained and have chosen to make their home. Let’s hope that changes soon.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Aloha, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Clare Twomey, ,dance, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Look Book, ,Pina Bausch, ,Portico Rooms, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2012, ,Shoot, ,Somerset House, ,Stolen Memories, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka, ,Tata Naka Shrunk, ,Twins, ,Vicky Newman, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Tata Naka

Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day
Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day.

Turning up to the Tata Naka presentation I had very little idea of what to expect but I had been most intrigued by their invitation, a dance card with mini pencil attached as if to list dances. I have always loved Tata Naka; their combination of colourful painted print designs and loose fitting but cleverly cut shapes is right up my street.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The presentation was held in the Portico Rooms and as I walked in I felt as though I’d chanced upon a private studio session. Huge lights, photographer, stylist. It took me right back to the days when I spent a lot of time loitering around on fashion shoots for magazines such as The Face and I-D. And, it turns out that this was the entire intention. By combining their time in Somerset House with the creation of look book images, Tata Naka had very cleverly made the most of their time and money as well as opening up the creative process for all to see. Absolutely genius.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The shoot had been going for some hours when I arrived, and the team were onto the last look of the day – seven girls clad in fabulously colourful drop waist, oversized and kaftan shaped tropical dresses. For S/S 2012 Tata Naka were inspired by 1950s east coast chic, combined with flowery resort glamour… and these last garments screamed Aloha.

Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey
Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey.

The models stood in formation on chairs against a black background with rose petals scattered across the floor, in an approximation of a famous Pina Bausch dance sequence. The much loved choreographer’s work had inspired the whole shoot, hence the dance card invitations.

Tata Naka Fashion Illustration By Vicky Newman
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Vicky Newman.

Attendees were served fresh lemonade in Tata Naka themed bottles decorated with carnations as we circulated around the shoot. We were able to take our own photos and see the others on a computer screen as the team scrutinised the latest official shots.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Twin sisters Tamara and Natasha Surguladze graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2000, and their label, Tata Naka, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary recently. The brand, which encompasses diffusion lines Stolen Memories and Tata Naka Shrunk for children, is celebrated worldwide yet curiously they have no stockists in the UK. It seems utterly bizarre to me that these talented designers are not more widely feted in the country where they trained and have chosen to make their home. Let’s hope that changes soon.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Aloha, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Clare Twomey, ,dance, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Look Book, ,Pina Bausch, ,Portico Rooms, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2012, ,Shoot, ,Somerset House, ,Stolen Memories, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka, ,Tata Naka Shrunk, ,Twins, ,Vicky Newman, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Felder Felder

Felder Felder SS 2011 by t.reidy

Felder Felder S/S 2011 by t.reidy.

Felder Felder are identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, and who studied together at Central Saint Martins (of course). According to the press release their S/S 2012 collection BANG! looked to the ‘bravery and bitten romance‘ of choreographer Pina Bausch, dosage which inspired their ‘modern undone style‘ of the kind preferred by uptown girls such as Jen Brill. Having never heard of Jen Brill I had to go google her: a model and photography agent of Chinese Australian origin she has or is apparently dating Terry Richardson. Which would account for her sudden it-girl infamy.

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Since the twins graduated just a few years ago they have quickly built a reputation for quirky combinations of girly and rock n roll aesthetics: attracting some famous patrons that include Rihanna, website like this Gwyneth Paltrow, and if the front row was anything to go by the ultimate Brit it-girl Peaches Geldof.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

A very gaunt looking Peaches was sat right across from me, her mouth dangling agog through the whole show as if desperate for a good meal. For god’s sake woman, eat! She kept self consciously adjusting her pose but luckily she didn’t distract me for long.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory peaches geldof

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

BANG! began with stunning graphic prints that swirled and splatted across flirty skater skirts paired with loose blouses. Over the top bondage inspired neck collars criss-crossed the chest and joined with belts to give a more hard edged feel. Stunning shoes by Kat Maconie were also given a matching print treatment, whilst metallic jackets, a dress and miniature backpack in glitzy pale blue added pizazz.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Sheer fabrics were embellished with signature Felder Felder studs, this time offered in dangling bullet shapes on sweeping black dresses and short white frocks. Orange made a sunny appearance on models with slicked back locks and a collaboration with Triumph produced some sexy bikinis: oh to have a body like one of those models. It did at times feel as though there were too many incongruous shapes within one collection: A-line, bodycon, maxi, draped, flirty, they were all there.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Back at Somerset House I copped a quick feel of the gorgeous fabrics at the Felder Felder stand and quickly understood their appeal: no wonder it-girls, singers and actresses love the pretty yet hard-edged Felder Felder look.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,BANG!, ,Barb Royal, ,BFC Tent, ,bodycon, ,Bullet, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Embellishment, ,Felder Felder, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gwyneth Paltrow, ,it-girl, ,Jen Brill, ,Kat Maconie, ,leather, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic, ,Peaches Geldof, ,Pina Bausch, ,print, ,Rihanna, ,S/S 2012, ,Somerset House, ,Studs, ,t.reidy, ,Tina Reidy, ,Triumph, ,Twins

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Amelia’s Magazine | Free Range Graduate Shows 2012: Middlesex University Photography Ba Hons Review

Middlesex University Photography -Raphaelle Gosden
Middlesex University Photography -Raphaelle Gosden
YouTube Preview Image
Raphaelle Gosden used children as her subjects and I also found this cute video of her subjects meeting their portrait for you to enjoy.

Middlesex University Photography -Emma Hayes
Middlesex University Photography -Emma Hayes
Middlesex University Photography -Emma Hayes
Emma Hayes placed items belonging to her naked subjects on the walls to create decorative tableaux.

Middlesex University Photography -Samale Ahmed
Middlesex University Photography -Samale Ahmed
Samale Ahmed‘s Les femmes dans Islam portrayed women in a ‘non-traditional and feminist way‘ although she claims not to be making any social observations about the way women live in Islamic countries.

Middlesex University Photography -Urte Marija Januseviciute
Middlesex University Photography -Urte Marija Januseviciute
Urte Marija Januseviciute studied Jungian ideas of unconsciousness and put together eight common complexes using props and costumes to create a surreal character for each one. I really liked these theatrical images with an 80s flavour; they may not have been intended for fashion editorial but they would certainly work well in that setting.

I apologise for the quality of images on this blog post: but if any of these young photographers had websites to showcase their work then I’d be able to show you better ones. Sigh.

Categories ,2012, ,Emma Hayes, ,feminism, ,Free Range, ,Islam, ,Jungian, ,Les femmes dans Islam, ,MIddlesex Univerisity, ,photography, ,Raphaelle Gosden, ,review, ,Samale Ahmed, ,Twins, ,Urte Marija Januseviciute

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Canadian twins Tasseomancy before the release of new album Ulalume

Tasseomancy by Casey Otremba
Tasseomancy by Casey Otremba.

The debut album from Canadian twins Tasseomancy (meaning divination of the future in tea leaves, adiposity coffee grounds or wine sediments) is out on Turf Records at the end of August. Ulalume features the same beautiful vocals as Sari and Romy Lightman‘s former outfit Ghost Bees, try but for their Tasseomancy incarnation they have embraced a new gothic intensity. Sari answered my questions.

Tasseomancy by Rachel Fujii
Tasseomancy by Rachel Fujii.

Why did Ghost Bees become Tasseomancy? What’s changed and why did that need to happen?
We felt like we had outgrown Ghost Bees. Our band was changing from a folk duo to a fuller, more ambient sound, experimenting with pedals and noise. That’s the direction we’re still going in.

Tasseomancy press shot

How would you describe your music? Who writes the lyrics and what inspires those?
We both write the lyrics, but separately. Half the record are Romy’s songs, and the other half are mine. We’re inspired by Japanese folk music, by eastern percussion and melody, and also by contemporary artists – like Timber Timbre, who are utilising technology with older, more traditional forms. It creates a timelessness in their music that both of us are into. My lyrics are often inspired by writers. A lot of my inspiration for this record came from a book of poetry called Poland/1931, by Jerome Rothenberg.

Tasseomancy by Casey Otremba
Tasseomancy by Casey Otremba
Tasseomancy by Casey Otremba.

How has being twins affected your creativity? Do you have any of that mythical twin 6th sense?
Being twins has definitely affected our dynamic as a band. There’s a lot of intuition that exists between us. Working with someone you knows you in such an inexplicable way has it’s strengths and also it’s weaknesses.

Tasseomancy-Illustration-by-Melissa-Kime
Tasseomancy by Melissa Kime.

Was there ever any question that you would make music together? Any other possible careers that have fallen by the wayside?
We’re very different people, and I’m sure we’ll both pursue other creative pursuits in our lives. I really like to write, and Romy is very visually inclined.

Ulalume_by_scott_waldron
Ulalume by Scott Waldron.

You also tour as part of Austra – how does this partnership work? Are you all friends and do you work together on other projects as well?
We’ve been friends with Katie Stelmanis and Maya Postepski for a long time now. We actually met them on a dock by in the ocean in Nova Scotia, where I organized a show for us to play together in our separate projects at the time at an all girls surf school. We get along really well, and both Katie and Maya have performed in Tasseomancy for a few performances. Currently, we’re collaborating with Maya for a string of shows we’ll be doing under as Tasseomancy featuring Princess Century (Maya’s solo project). She also made a remix for one of our songs, Heavy Sleep.

YouTube Preview ImageHeavy Sleep

You will be releasing the album on a specially commissioned candlestick and matchbook set – how does this work and what inspired the idea?
Our UK label, Turf Records, asked us to release our music with any medium we could think of. We both thought of the candle, as it enhances the experience of listening to music when you create an atmosphere to go along with it. Candlelight is a good lighting.

Tasseomancy girls

When and where will you be playing next in the UK?
We’re playing our release show on Tuesday 30th August at the Camp Basement. It will be our first time in the UK playing with a band. Maya will be joining us on drums and synth, plus, expect special guests!

YouTube Preview ImageSoft Feet

If you like Tasseomancy don’t forget to read my interview with Kate Stelmanis of Austra.

Tasseomancy by Kinska
Tasseomancy by Kinska.

Categories ,album, ,Austra, ,Camp Basement, ,Canadian, ,Casey Otremba, ,Ghost Bees, ,Heavy Sleep, ,Jerome Rothenberg, ,Kate Stelmanis, ,Kinska, ,Maya Postepski, ,Melissa Kime, ,Poland/1931, ,Princess Century, ,Rachel Fujii, ,Sari and Romy Lightman, ,Scott Waldron, ,Soft Feet, ,Tasseomancy, ,Timber Timbre, ,Turf Records, ,Twins, ,Ulalume

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