Amelia’s Magazine | Simon Ekrelius introduces Monochrome, his new A/W 2014 collection

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Last week Simon Ekrelius showcased a preview selection of garments from his pared down A/W 2014 collection, titled Monochrome. Inspired by iconic model Lee Miller, this season the Swedish designer has focused on a sleek and eminently wearable silhouette, which features innovative fabric treatments and his razor sharp signature tailoring.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas.

When did you first discover the muse for your latest collection, Lee Miller?
Many years ago when I read into Man Ray‘s life and realised that Lee was very involved with his work and the solarisation technique.

simon ekrelius 1

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How did this translate into elements of the Monochrome collection?
Indirectly I wanted to translate the feeling I had for her relationship with photography, perhaps a longshot for some but my idea was to describe her in the time now if she would be alive. So I cut lines all over the body, which were then sprayed and painted. Many of the constructions retain a certain mood, as does the palette and the structure of the fabrics. She created something very subdued through photography; very beautiful and simple. She was stuck in my mind for a long period and now was the right time to bring it all up.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari.

What are the key materials and processes used in these garments?
There is wool, cotton, silk, poly blends and nylon. The crème coloured cotton canvas and the black cotton satin has been painted and then sprayed with acrylic.

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What are your favourite pieces in the collection?
The wool coat with pleats, the spray painted pieces, the black silk organza blouse and dress, the grey pieces, the black shiny and matt jersey dress and the jumpsuit with lighter vertical lines.

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Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Who do you hope will wear these garments and why?
Kate Moss, Tilda Swinton, Lily Cole, and Cate Blanchett: because I know they would carry my pieces perfectly.

You can read our previous interview with Simon Ekrelius here.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Cate Blanchett, ,Kate Moss, ,Lee Miller, ,Lily Cole, ,Man Ray, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Megan Thomas, ,monochrome, ,Sangita Kumari, ,Simon Ekrelius, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tilda Swinton, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | It’s National Wool Week!


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins


Illustration by Danielle Andrews

London is phenomenal, story a vast ever evolving metropolis where nothing stays still and sleep is for the dead. As much as it tires you out, the frenetic pace of life is what keeps us all going. The thing is: growing up in Dublin, there are times where I yearn for something a bit more relaxed. From almost anywhere in Dublin you can see the mountains and countryside, (From almost anywhere read: my house, and if I’m honest only the Irish call the Wicklow Mountains that, to most others they’re big hills). Try doing that in London. The parks are gorgeous, but they just dont cut it.


Sheep on Savile Row. Photography by Nick Bain

 On Monday though, Wool Week stepped up to the plate to help alleviate this pastoral longing. In order to champion the cause of the British Sheep Farmer, and the wonder natural resource that is wool, Savile Row was over run with our four-legged friends. Now, these were the cleanest sheep I had ever seen – but it was great to bring the countryside into town. The week was later launched in style by a fantastic party in Selfridges attended by the great and the good.

The initiative which was set up by His Royal Highness Prince Charles, who champions the cause of wool. Shocked by the fact that it can cost a farmer more to shear a sheep than the value of its fleece, Charlie set up the cross-industry Campaign for Wool. Sure, we all have our favourite big wooly jumpers perfect for winter, but the fact is wool can be used in a huge variety of ways. From aerospace to insulation, wool has a huge range of uses. I’ll be honest though, I’m not too concerned about them. Championing great British fashion that uses wool on the other hand is another story.

The fine gauge knits of John Smedley, Pringle‘s innovative and directional intarsia, organic products from Daniel Hechter at John Lewis, traditional tweeds at Hackett and a lovely thick Crombie all show just how versatile wool is. There is a very good reason Britain used to be swamped from shore to shore in woolen products. Aran sweaters, cricket jumpers and kilts all make up part of our rich cultural heritage.  This should be celebrated! Yeah, they shrink in the wash – and some fibres can be itchy as hell (though with modern spinning techniques less so than the past) but don’t think of that awful school jumper you had growing up. Think of your gran knitting you that somewhat hideous jumper out of love. Think of the glamorous Tilda Swinton in Pringle. For heaven’s sake, think of the Queen in her twinset and pearls. Get behind Wool, leave the polyester blends behind.

If nothing else do it for the sheep….

National Wool Week runs until Sunday

Categories ,Aran, ,british, ,Crombie, ,Daniel Hechter, ,Dublin, ,Farming, ,Hackett, ,HRH, ,John Smedley, ,knitting, ,Prince Charles, ,Pringle, ,Queen, ,Savile Row, ,Selfridges, ,sheep, ,Tilda Swinton, ,Wicklow Mountains, ,wool, ,Wool Week

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bishi at BFI Southbank: Live Review

Bishi by Margaux Cannon

Bishi by Margaux Quayle Cannon

It was a chilly evening on London’s Southbank, but still buzzing with Friday night revellers, skateboarders and tourists sampling the wares of the newly opened Christmas Market. Nestled beneath Waterloo Bridge, the BFI Southbank was my refuge for the evening, for Bishi’s Albion Voice show. There were a few glamorous individuals (including one half of Robots In Disguise, namely Dee Plume) in the crowd waiting patiently for the doors to open, some looking as though they were auditioning for a Roxy Music album cover. A bit unexpected for the various film goers passing through! As we took our seats inside the plush NFT1 auditorium, there was a brief introduction by Stuart Brown of the BFI’s Sonic Cinema, who had helped organise tonight and, as the lights dimmed, we were underway.

Bishi Albion Voice by Shy Illustrations

Bishi by Shy Illustrations

Bishi at BFI_by Dom&Ink

Bishi by Dom&Ink

A classically trained musician, after learning the sitar, bass and ukulele and developing a love for vintage synths and electronics, Bishi branched out into performance art and DJing, as well as playing with the likes of Patrick Wolf and Róisín Murphy. Acclaimed by the New York Times, no less, as the “New British Diva”, she also features in Julien Temple’s wonderful documentary London: The Modern Babylon. Albion Voice, her second album, is an ambitious exploration of Britain ancient and multiculturally modern (inspired by Michael Bracewell’s book England Is Mine: Pop Life In Albion From Wilde To Goldie), fusing English folk, minimal drones and lush orchestrations, and incorporating the writings of Milton, Chaucer and Mary Elizabeth Frye.

Bishi by Angela Lamb

Bishi by Angela Lamb

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Taking centre stage, with a dazzling array of animations playing on the big screen behind her, Bishi ran through the songs from the album with an equally dazzling array of costume changes. On pieces like the epic Dia Ti Maria, the combination of hypnotic images, with vocal harmonies and a resonant church organ run through the BFI Southbank’s crystal clear PA, created a mesmerising effect. Bishi strapped on a sitar for the album’s title track, Albion Voice, and duetted (on screen, at least) with her mother, Susmita Bhattacharya, on Gram Chara (with lyrics by Rabindranath Tagore, who, in 1913, was the first non-Westerner to win the Nobel Prize in Literature). There was an instrumental interlude for The Last Of England, accompanied by an excerpt from Derek Jarman’s film of the same name (featuring a young Tilda Swinton). One song that didn’t feature on the album but which did appear was St George And The Dragon, recounting the legend of Dragon Hill. A thoroughly awesome set finished with Ship Of Fools, with Bishi inviting the audience to join in with its singalong finale.

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Ship of Fools.Bishi_by Dom&Ink

Bishi by Dom&Ink

As Bishi left the stage to rapturous applause, and with the possibility of another performance at an East London gallery in the New Year, it looks like Albion Voice is finally going to get the exposure it deserves.

Categories ,Albion Voice, ,Angela Lamb, ,BFI, ,Bishi, ,Chaucer, ,Dee Plume, ,Derek Jarman, ,Dom&Ink, ,Julien Temple, ,Margaux Quayle Cannon, ,Mary Elizabeth Frye, ,Michael Bracewell, ,Milton, ,New York Times, ,Nobel Prize, ,Patrick Wolf, ,Rabindranath Tagore, ,Robots in Disguise, ,Roisin Murphy, ,Roxy Music, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Sonic Cinema, ,Southbank, ,Susmita Bhattacharya, ,Tilda Swinton

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