Amelia’s Magazine | Kirsty Ward: The London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview Interview

Kirsty Ward by Kassie Berry
Kirsty Ward S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry.

In the past few seasons I’ve been super impressed with the work of up and coming designer Kirsty Ward. She won’t be taking to the catwalk this season but I still thought I’d do a sneaky catch up interview with her to find out what she’s got in store for S/S 2012. Here goes…

Kirsty Ward by Claire Kearns
Kirsty Ward by Claire Kearns.

How did you come up with your signature look: sculptural boning of organza to create many layered shapes?
It’s something I have been obsessed with since my MA at Central Saint Martins and has evolved since then, check and there’s always a way each season that I want to push it. I probably won’t ever tire of it.

Kirsty Ward S/S 2012
When did your love of the 80s start?
I’m not sure when, and im not sure if its because I was born in 1982 but I like the possibility and forward thinking of the era, it’s when people started to break the mould more.

Kirsty Ward by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Kirsty Ward S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

You can’t bear stud earrings: do you ever feel the physical effects from your love of such big jewellery? Do you take a break from them when you are working or would we find you hunched over a sewing machine with 3 inch earrings dangling dangerously close to the mechanisms?
Haha when I’m working I will generally be jewelleryless – I like wearing teenage boy clothes, with nothing dangling inbetween pattern cutting and sewing. I’m sure there have been some jewellery related accidents as I’m quite clumsy but I cannot think of any specific incidents.

Why do you think that jewellery is so important these days and what can good jewellery offer to an outfit?
Jewellery is great as it can totally make a boring outfit look cool and it’s also not sizeist, so bigger people can wear it too, as not everyone is built for high fashion garments.

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 inspiration girl
You find lots of jewellery components in hardware shops. Do you have any favourite haunts? eg. Have you ever discovered a treasure trove of ancient hardware bits and if so where was this eureka moment?
I tend to favour the great British institutes such as B&Q, theres this online floristry supplier that I love called Micheal dark and my dad is a carpenter so he has lots of fun stuff in his van/tool box. I also like alot of trade only places filled with guys in high vis vests etc wondering what the hell I’m doing in there buying x40 plumbing parts!

Kirsty Ward by Debbie Ajia
Kirsty Ward S/S 2012 by Debbie Ajia.

Are you still collaborating with David Longshaw and if so what can we except from him this season, any insider tips?
Of course he’s my boyfriend, he can’t get rid of me! Well there’s lots of prints (of course) of his beautiful illustrations mixed with some fucked up florals (fucked up in a good way).

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 blue
Why did you decide to forgo a catwalk show this season and instead present the collection on a static stand with a film? What can you tell us about the film?
To be honest as a young designer a catwalk show is far too expensive for me at the moment. I thought it would be far more sensible to meet with buyers and press in an environment where I can talk them through my collection, this way they can see all the details and craftsmanship.
The film will be one word – FUN!

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 inspiration
Last season you’d been watching a lot of Star Wars and that seemed to sneak into some of the dress shapes. Have you been watching some influential movies this season and if so what?
I’ve been watching quite a few shit sci-fi movies – generally the crapper they are the more I will like it, I especially like bad acting and awful special effects. I don’t think it has rubbed off too much in the collection, but we will see in the final lookbook photos!

Kirsty Ward SS 2012 inspiration
This season you’ve been inspired by a “mundane mix of officewear, stationary, menswear detailing and suspended layering.” How can stationary influence clothing?!
It’s more about the stationary being used in the jewellery, its taken over from the hardware of past seasons. 

What new fabrics have you used for the upcoming S/S 2012 season?
Well there’s always a sheer, then there’s a mix of luxurious vs sporty with sand washed silks, neoprene, cotton drills and striped shirting.

Kirsty Ward by Samantha Eynon
Kirsty Ward by Samantha Eynon.

Is music important to you and if so what will you be listening to in the run up to Fashion Week? Any favourites on the decks?
Definitely – I hate working in silence, it puts me on edge. At the moment in the studio were playing: Metronomy, Hot Chip, The Knife, Peaches, Lykke Li, Little Dragon, Yelle.

I’m sure you have loads to do, but what will an average day be like in the final run up to LFW? What will you do to rest and relax?
To be honest my life at the moment revolves around ss12, so if I’m not working on it I’m thinking about it, but as we touched on before I so like to watch the odd shit sci-fi movie.

Kirsty Ward inspiration
No more nipples for S/S 2012: you’ve collaborated with designer Josefine Wing of Mint Siren for an underwear collection this season. What has been the best bit about this project?
It’s good to have another persons knowledge and skills to work with as I didn’t have a clue about the technical side of underwear.

Who is the ideal woman to wear your clothes? Do you think you would ever branch out into menswear?
There’s not a specific example, just someone who likes to have fun with their clothing/jewellery and someone that appreciates the hidden details. I wouldn’t say no to menswear – I often do made to measure pieces for male friends, but who knows about an actual collection!

Where can people get their hands on a piece of Kirsty Ward?
My pieces can be found in China, Japan, Amsterdam, and Italy but In the UK my pieces can be found at Young British Designers, Bengt Fashion and I will be selling select and limited edition pieces on my website (www.kirsty-ward.com)

If you’ve only just discovered Kirsty Ward why not check in with our other blogs about this talented designer (with loads of illustrations):

Kirsty Ward S/S 2011
Kirsty Ward Ones to Watch A/W 2011 Preview
Kirsty Ward Ones to Watch A/W 2011
and another blog about Ones to Watch A/W 2011

You can find Kirsty Ward at the static stands during London Fashion Week.

Categories ,1980s, ,B&Q, ,Bengt Fashion, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Claire Kearns, ,David Longshaw, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Earrings, ,Film. Mint Siren, ,Hardware, ,Hot Chip, ,interview, ,jewellery, ,Josefine Wing, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Little Dragon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lykke Li, ,ma, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,metronomy, ,Peaches, ,preview, ,S/S 2012, ,Samantha Eynon, ,Sci-Fi, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Star Wars, ,Stationary, ,Structural, ,The Knife, ,Yelle, ,young british designers

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – David Koma – The Jetsons meets Barbarella

DSC02220

David Koma blasted Hot Chip ‘do it do it do it now’ as the models strutted along the catwalk attired in the outcome of the Jetson family crossed with Barbarella. The tight body conscious dress hems (a trend still occurring on the majority of catwalks) were adorned with black tubular piping and Deep Space Nine style jewellery. This was fun fun party fashion.

The solar system number was a particular favourite of mine, as a careful balancing act was required in the wearing of the piece. The use of rainbow coloured jewels screamed –definitely a positive point- Fred Butler Fred Butler

davidkoma3

The second half of the collection was the interpretation of the designer’s inspiration, the painter and sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle.

davidkoma7

davidkoma4

These dramatic dresses covered in bold primary colour block certainly grabbed the attention. The variety of materials embellishing the garments added a sense of tactically, whilst retaining a definite Star Trek alien ‘babe’ theme. 

davidkoma6

Sci-fi was a strong running theme at London Fashion Week,  with fembots seen at Blow Presents and  Lousie Goldin S/S collections 2010.

The strapless pink nipple dress was an interpretation of Niki di Saint Phalle’s voluptuous abstract sculptures celebrating decadent femininity. A successful application of the artist’s bold lines and block colours presenting the viewer with an abstract version of the colour block trend reinterpreting the artist’s designs onto the shape of the 60’s (the cut of the dresses celebrating the cuts of Mary Quant and Biba).

pinknippledress

The use of bright colours embellished hips and shoulders blocking and revealing parts of the body at the same time.

DavidKoma1

 davidkomacutout

The entire collection continued Koma’s interest in the female silhouette with the tight-tight dresses exaggerating the (fairly non-existant) curves of the models. The show concluded with overt references to the designer’s A/W 09 collection with the exaggerated curving in the construction of the dresses.

All Photographs by Sabrina Morrison

Categories ,Covent Garden, ,Fashion Scout, ,fembots, ,Holborn, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Goldin, ,Merit Winner, ,sabrina morrison, ,Sci-Fi

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Nottingham Trent


Danielle Reed, viagra buy illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

The Central Lancashire show was an upbeat, patriotic affair. Models strutted down the catwalk to a stonking soundtrack provided by students from the performing arts department, and we waved collections along with the cute Union Jack flags left on each seat.  

The clothes were a lot of fun too – with the standout students playing around with conventional British icons – from Beefeaters and Big Ben to British school uniforms.  

Kirsty Stringfellow created interesting textures with her whimsical collection of knitted designs. Column dresses in thick, appliquéd floral cream ruched across the models’ chests like a curtain, and were adorned with sparkly crochet, printed lace and gold netting. Whilst some of the curtain-esque dresses seemed a little heavy, Stringfellow is clearly gifted at manipulating different textures – the fine-knit cream designs with intricate layers of ruffles were sheer romance.  


Kirsty Stringfellow, illustrated by Zarina Liew

On the other end of the scale, Danielle Reed and Rachel Wolstenhome both had fun with a tough, urban take on sportswear. Reed paired white bobby socks with black Dr. Martens, black grommet-laced waistcoats with slouchy joggers and manipulated aertex fabric into loose jumpsuits. The effect was a strong collection of grunge-inspired sportswear, with PVC fabrics and a monochrome palette adding a gothic edge.  


Danielle Reed, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Wolstenhome created the sole male collection on show, and her futuristic sportswear borrowed shapes and fabrics from a manner of sportswear, a mash up of scuba-esque one-pieces, foam hoods, and deconstructed jersey sweat pants, with cut-out holes and harem-style drapes and folds.  

Rachel Wolstenholme, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

A special mention should also go to Sunny Kular for her attempt to spice up school uniforms with Indian elements. We loved seeing that boring grey fabric we remember from our school days twisted into sari shapes, ties and blazers in Ikat prints and jackets emblazoned with a ‘Ganesh’ school badge.  


Sunny Kalar, illustrated by Donna McKenzie

But UCLAN’s strongest suits are clearly printed textiles, forming the basis of two of the most eye-catching collections.  

Jessica Thompson’s surreal collection of printed designs was full of quirky, cartoonish imagery, manipulated onto a spectrum of designs, from fitted shift dresses to sporty anoraks. Everything demanded attention, from the Beefeater printed slip that made the model into a marching drummer, to the dreamy shifts emblazoned with chimps and birds.

Some images were distorted into unrecognisable shapes and quirky patterns, forcing a closer look.  The final piece was a red, floor length printed mac, that looked like it was printed with moon craters – the coolest cover up for a rainy day.  


Jessica Thompson, illustrated by Gemma Milly

Saving the best till last – Sara Wadsworth’s amazing printed collection chimed with the patriotic mood. The whole collection was crafted in chiffon, printed with British icons – the Union Jack, Big Ben the London Eye and what looked like parts of Trafalgar Square, all blown up, re-sized, and patterned across wisps of fabric.


Sara Wadsworth, illustrated by Abi Daker

Wadsworth let the prints do the talking, choosing almost sheer chiffon in muted shades of grey, white and occasional splashes of olives and teal. Bright yellow bras peeked out from beneath the designs, ranging from floor length kaftans to a Vivienne Westwood-esque draped dress, and a sweet smock top and short combo. Who would have thought our most touristy landmarks could be re-imagined into such wearable designs?

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Danielle Reed, pills illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

The Central Lancashire show was an upbeat, cialis 40mg patriotic affair. Models strutted down the catwalk to a stonking soundtrack provided by students from the performing arts department, and we waved collections along with the cute Union Jack flags left on each seat.  

The clothes were a lot of fun too – with the standout students playing around with conventional British icons – from Beefeaters and Big Ben to British school uniforms.  

Kirsty Stringfellow created interesting textures with her whimsical collection of knitted designs. Column dresses in thick, appliquéd floral cream ruched across the models’ chests like a curtain, and were adorned with sparkly crochet, printed lace and gold netting. Whilst some of the curtain-esque dresses seemed a little heavy, Stringfellow is clearly gifted at manipulating different textures – the fine-knit cream designs with intricate layers of ruffles were sheer romance.  


Kirsty Stringfellow, illustrated by Zarina Liew

On the other end of the scale, Danielle Reed and Rachel Wolstenhome both had fun with a tough, urban take on sportswear. Reed paired white bobby socks with black Dr. Martens, black grommet-laced waistcoats with slouchy joggers and manipulated aertex fabric into loose jumpsuits. The effect was a strong collection of grunge-inspired sportswear, with PVC fabrics and a monochrome palette adding a gothic edge.  


Danielle Reed, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Wolstenhome created the sole male collection on show, and her futuristic sportswear borrowed shapes and fabrics from a manner of sportswear, a mash up of scuba-esque one-pieces, foam hoods, and deconstructed jersey sweat pants, with cut-out holes and harem-style drapes and folds.  

Rachel Wolstenholme, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

A special mention should also go to Sunny Kular for her attempt to spice up school uniforms with Indian elements. We loved seeing that boring grey fabric we remember from our school days twisted into sari shapes, ties and blazers in Ikat prints and jackets emblazoned with a ‘Ganesh’ school badge.  


Sunny Kalar, illustrated by Donna McKenzie

But UCLAN’s strongest suits are clearly printed textiles, forming the basis of two of the most eye-catching collections.  

Jessica Thompson’s surreal collection of printed designs was full of quirky, cartoonish imagery, manipulated onto a spectrum of designs, from fitted shift dresses to sporty anoraks. Everything demanded attention, from the Beefeater printed slip that made the model into a marching drummer, to the dreamy shifts emblazoned with chimps and birds.

Some images were distorted into unrecognisable shapes and quirky patterns, forcing a closer look.  The final piece was a red, floor length printed mac, that looked like it was printed with moon craters – the coolest cover up for a rainy day.  


Jessica Thompson, illustrated by Gemma Milly

Saving the best till last – Sara Wadsworth’s amazing printed collection chimed with the patriotic mood. The whole collection was crafted in chiffon, printed with British icons – the Union Jack, Big Ben the London Eye and what looked like parts of Trafalgar Square, all blown up, re-sized, and patterned across wisps of fabric.


Sara Wadsworth, illustrated by Abi Daker

Wadsworth let the prints do the talking, choosing almost sheer chiffon in muted shades of grey, white and occasional splashes of olives and teal. Bright yellow bras peeked out from beneath the designs, ranging from floor length kaftans to a Vivienne Westwood-esque draped dress, and a sweet smock top and short combo. Who would have thought our most touristy landmarks could be re-imagined into such wearable designs?

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Shinsuke Mitsuoka

The world of fashion is notoriously fickle and grabbing the attentions of a fashion crowd for any extended period of time seems tricky. Catwalk shows do their best with an array of light shows and thumping soundtracks which could sometimes do with a warning.

Nottingham Trent have prepared it all for their outing at Graduate Fashion Week with glossy door staff, viagra 100mg designer goody bags and even a rather trendy loitering DJ (wearing a somewhat dubious puffa jacket). They’re raring to go, diagnosis but there’s just one cog in the works; a serious lack of bums on seats. Well, there is of course the age old excuse of being fashionably late, but even the pinched smiles of women ferrying around have started to crumble.

All becomes clear as a dull thudding bass infiltrates the theatre and the sound barrier takes a bashing as the trill of hundreds of screaming girls hit the roof. Apparently Tinie Tempah is a big deal (and from the glimpse I got, genuinely teeny Tinie). He’s had all of one song, which luckily for Nottingham Trent, he dispatches quickly, and soon a bustle of activity swells at the theatre doors. If Tinie didn’t make them ‘Pass Out’ (see what I did there? Here all week folks…) then the efforts of Nottingham Trent’s 2010 graduates will surely do their best to stun the senses. 


Live front row illustration by Lauren Macaulay

Nottingham Trent has a clear passion for encouraging students to experiment with unique techniques and textures in knitwear, producing a modern and varied aesthetic across the course. Their catwalk show oscillates between detailed, intricate knitwear and sleek takes on womenswear with bursts of energy injected at intervals by the likes of Emma Dick, showcasing sharp, graphic prints of televisions and arrows just at home in a museum of Pop Art as the runway. Integrated hoods give the look a futuristic feel but there’s a touch of the retro about her two-tone body con jumpsuit with a classic 1960s palette contrast between red and black.

Nottingham Trent keeps the volume turned up with Claire Hartley’s cutaway knitted one pieces, exposing flashes of green, yellow and red for a futuristic sci-fi look. Hartley’s dedication to forward thinking stretches beyond the aesthetics as she hopes to generate a new innovative, zero waste policy in manufacturing to ensure the sustainability and evolution of the clothes. 

By now Tinie’s long forgotten as each model stalks down the catwalk to puffa DJ’s painfully hip soundtrack. Nikki Lowe dazzles with gold lamé suits complete with built-in gloves worthy of an evil Jackie Collins penned character, but flashlight necklaces add a distinctive disco feel caught somewhere between the 1970s and the 1990s.

Miranda Boucher’s collection is a dark and luxurious celebration of femininity with plush midnight blue coats and velveteen details just obscuring the model’s modesty.  

Emma Philpot’s knitwear seems to grow from the models bodies, twisting and turning upon itself and forming knots and twists likes a chunky chainmail, while Tiffany Williams continues the fairytale edge with her menswear collection in dark, brooding colours and heavy volume that weigh on the shoulders as a hulking, masculine presence. Backs reveal shimmers of gold thread intertwined, adding a lighter side to the depth of her work. 
Jenna Harvey’s dresses change at every turn as each layer of tiny fabric is double printed and loosely set so as it moves a new picture is revealed. At times it feels like 3D glasses are needed just to keep up with the transformation before your eyes.

Meanwhile, Phoebe Thirlwall’s beautiful knitwear dresses, inspired by the intricacies of the skin, show a level of workmanship that is breathtaking under the lights of the catwalk. Each ribbed layer clings to the models with hundreds of different levels working together. Her hard work has clearly not gone unnoticed as her work was also photographed by renowned artist Rankin, a stunning portrait duly displayed in grand terms at Earl’s Court.


 
Izabela Targosz’s equestrian turn on tailoring injects some more colour into Nottingham Trent’s show, with jackets made with horsehair pockets and backs adding a silky but quirky feel. Riding hats are the natural yet perfect accessory to a collection that shows an equal strength in its attention to detail for an upheaval of the British tailored look. 

Shinsuke Matsuoka’s work is saved for the final spot and with the breathtaking effect of the garments, it’s easy to see why. Bondage style zips snake across panels of black hi-shine material; the sound of the clothes are a foreboding presence in themselves, but as six outfits stand together the models are transformed into an unnervingly attractive chain gang from the future. I’m not sure if it was this effect or not, but my camera also spluttered its final breaths at this point, perhaps overwhelmed by the power of Matsuoka’s collection.

In any case, it proved a spectacular way to end things and is not something I can imagine being trumped by Tinie any day soon.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Categories ,1960s, ,3D, ,Bondage, ,Claire Hartley, ,dj, ,Earls Court, ,Emma Dick, ,Emma Philpot, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Izabela Tagosz, ,Jackie Collins, ,Jenna Harvey, ,knitwear, ,london, ,menswear, ,Miranda Boucher, ,Nikki Lowe, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Phoebe Thirlwall, ,Pop Art, ,Rankin, ,Sci-Fi, ,Shinsuke Matsuoka, ,Tiffany Williams, ,Tinie Temper, ,vogue, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

For A/W 2013 Jean-Pierre Braganza once again explored geometry, this time influenced by Cosmic Symbolism, Fantasy and an imagined Sci-Fi world where women are leaders. Starkonnen was dominated by this season’s favourite minimalist colours of black and white, here given a utilitarian space ship vibe with Braganza‘s signature sharp panelled tailoring and the addition of a round pattern intersected with lines, reminiscent of Leonardo da Vinci‘s infamous image of the Vitruvian Man. Apparently this arrangement of circles and lines forms perfect geometry in which every known shape appears. Matching fractal designs were inspired by the scales of a dragon and appeared as placements prints intersected with jagged bursts of peachy coral or across oversized collars and draped around legs on maxi skirts. A glowing teal blue was the only other highlight, used in large swathes for a simple shift dress and elegant trouser suit.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 illustrations by Daniel Alexander.

Long fabric waist ties were inspired by ‘samurai silhouettes‘ and gave a softer vibe to the dramatic lines, intended to convey ‘power, wisdom and elegance‘. Around the necks hung beautiful beaded and knotted necklaces by Janine Barraclough, and the occasional model swung an elegant leather clutch bag by Bracher Emden. Sleek hair hung parted from the middle and swished smoothly, apart from at the crown, where a neatly bound top knot perched. I imagine that Jean-Pierre Braganza must have watched a few Sci-Fi films as research for Starkonnen as this all added to the impression that these women could be tribes from a far off galaxy, elegantly swishing through an intergalactic ship amongst many other races.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Jane Young.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregoryc
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jean Pierre Braganza by Angela Lamb
Jean Pierre Braganza by Angela Lamb.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Angela Lamb, ,Bracher Emden, ,Cosmic Symbolism, ,Daniel Alexander, ,fantasy, ,Jane Young, ,Janine Barraclough, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Leonardo Da Vinci, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Kills Me, ,Sci-Fi, ,Starkonnen, ,Vitruvian Man

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Knitwear Designers Brenda Aherne and Helen Delany of Electronic Sheep

Electronic Sheep

Known for their knitwear scarves, Electronic Sheep has carved itself a place in the market with its distinctive designs. Named after the Philip K. Dick novel Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep, this fashion brand has a futuristic feel of its own, and its unique patterns as well as trend-setting styles give it an exciting edge. These scarves are straight out of a sci-fi movie, while still effortlessly maintaining wearability. The patterns are creative with an urban edge, and the use of block colours and type reminds me of graffiti. They sell a mix of products including scarves, sweater dresses and bobble hats. All knit-tastic and colour-packed.

Brenda Aherne and Helen Delany founded Electronic Sheep way back in 1999. Co-Director Brenda has a BA in Fashion from the National College of Art & Design in Dublin as well as a post-graduate qualification in Knitwear from LSAD. Before Electronic Sheep she worked as a Knitwear Technology specialist and Accessories Designer. Co-Director Helen has a BA in Graphic Design and has studied at Dublin’s National College of Art & Design, Central Saint Martins and The School of Visual Arts in New York. Helen has designed and art directed for The Sunday Times Magazine, Swarovski, Glamour US and The V&A among others. I spoke to them both about Blade Runner, purl and what they’ve learnt so far.

Electronic Sheep AW 2013

If you could describe Electronic Sheep in five words, what would they be?
BOTH: Warm Stories Knit Fashion Pictures

How did you two meet?
HELEN: We met in the late seventies, when we were young kids. Brenda moved in next door to me and the friendship began when I was invited around to her garden. This was to take part in a home movie shot on the cine camera. We soon figured out that we both liked making stuff and designed some new outfits for my two Yorkshire Terriers. Then we parted for a few years when Brenda became a ‘bold’ goth pre-teen, and I was forbidden to hang out with her. From thirteen onward our renewed friendship took hold with a vengeance and we became badasses together instead!

Electronic Sheep AW 2013

How did you come up with the name Electronic Sheep?
HELEN: Brenda won an award after her Postgrad in Knitwear, and to claim the cash she had to set up a company. She needed something quick and relevant. At the time she used high tech Shima Seiki knitting machines, hence the ‘Electronic’ part, and everything was made with yarn/wool so that’s where the Sheep came in. I was working at Wired magazine and was immersed in the sci-fi world which also influenced the name.

Electronic Sheep AW 2013
Electronic Sheep

Can you tell me a bit more about your A/W13 collection Typhoon Puppets?
BOTH: The main influence for the Typhoon Puppets collection was meteorology, but parallel to that other themes developed – like the use of our own comic collaged throughout and references to cities. It is a personal statement about how we feel and as city people, a lot of the imagery is a result of what we see around us. For example the scarf ‘Open 24 Hours’ depicts a girl eating noodles in the rain, the signage and clothing are both Asian and English; these are the strongest changes we are observing right now – dramatic weather/mixing cultures. Typhoon Puppets refers to how we have little control over the world and therefore are puppets in a storm.

Electronic Sheep
Electronic Sheep

How do your two different backgrounds (Brenda in Fashion and Helen in Graphic Design) come into play when you’re creating a collection?
HELEN: Having worked together for so long our disciplines overlap and we have similar interests and backgrounds, so we are often drawn to the same things. Conceptually it is a fluid process but when it gets down to the details and production our two strengths play an important part. I get pretty technical with the computer stuff and drawings, and I’m a bit of a control freak about details but that’s the curse of Graphic Design! Brenda is a ‘proper knitter’ and obviously more precious about the fashion side and knit techniques. I think one discipline relies equally on the other for what we do – we have managed to push the detail in our jacquards because we know both sides of the process – graphics and knit.

Your collections have a vast range of influences, how do you get the inspiration for a collection?
HELEN: We live in two different cities – Brenda in Dublin and me in London. Between us we have also lived and worked in New York, Munich and Rome. I think this is a major influence on us, and we delve into our past a great deal subconsciously, as well as deliberately. So it is our own experiences giving us inspiration, and we also collect a lot of things, to the point of being hoarders. Whatever we feel most strongly about at the time of designing becomes the subject of the collection, but usually it has been brewing-up for about a year.

Electronic Sheep

Your AW12 collection Pink Noir led to ‘A Knitted Film’, do you feel all creative pursuits are interrelated?
BOTH: Yes we think so – we are interested in the idea and then the medium. It is important to respect and protect the expertise of each field but we like creative processes overlapping. If it makes it stronger we will collaborate with other designers/artists to keep the level of output high. For ‘A Knitted Film’ we collaborated with a video artist Cliona Harmey to get her slant on things, and we collaborated with a musician to do the soundtrack. So they are all interrelated, but some people are better at certain things than others.

Electronic Sheep
Electronic Sheep AW 2013

Is it important to you that your pieces are practical?
BOTH: At the moment: yes. When we started out we handmade a lot of pieces ourselves, and experimented with fabric items. But production got complicated and we found ourselves glueing on felt dots to skirts at 3am etc. While it was fun the downside was time and also durability. We like that our knitwear is easy to wear and it keeps you warm. Plus we don’t have to worry about a dot falling off.

Do you both knit as a hobby?
BOTH: In an ideal world we would knit on the porch in rocking chairs, but normally we never get around to it. Brenda is naturally really good at knitting and crochet, she can also make knitted dolls. I think knitting is really relaxing and I like doing it but it has taken me 2 years to do 20 rows of plain/purl.

Electronic Sheep
Electronic Sheep

You’ve been around since 1999, how do you think the market has changed in the last ten years or so?
BOTH: It has changed in many ways style-wise, but in our experience a significant change is that people are more aware of product sources. There is in an increase in people buying covetable, durable items as opposed to throw-away fashion. That is good for progressive designers and in the long term, for the environment. It has a long way to go, but if people continue to look at who is designing and making their clothes, the knock on effect is great and really positive.

Electronic Sheep
Electronic Sheep

Do you have anything big planned for the second half of 2013?
BOTH: We have a lot of shows coming up in 2013. We are part of an exhibition which will show our work and film at the Irish Embassy in London and other spaces in the UK. The AW13 collection is also in Fashion Shows in London, Dublin and New York in September. Every October we like to do a launch at the Old Shoreditch Station also known as Jaguar Shoes, which is a fun way to celebrate the new collection.

You can see the Electronic Sheep website here www.electronicsheep.com
Electronic Sheep

Photographs where clothes are modelled are by David Poole. Product photographs were kindly supplied by Electronic Sheep.

Categories ,A/W’13, ,David Poole., ,Dublin, ,Electronic Sheep, ,Fashion Shows, ,Irish, ,Jaguar Shoes, ,knit, ,knitwear, ,london, ,Old Shoreditch Station, ,Pink Noir, ,Scarves, ,Sci-Fi, ,Typhoon Puppets

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Amelia’s Magazine | Moving Textiles: Digital Encounters, an interview with Louize Harries

Louize Harries Digital Encounters
Louize Harries, Digital Encounters.

The University for the Creative Arts currently hosts Digital Encounters, the final exhibition in the Crysalis Project Moving Textiles series, curated by Jenna Rossi‐Camus. In this exciting exhibition the works of over forty emerging and established textile designers, artists and craftspeople explore the place of digital technology in contemporary textile practice. I spoke with exhibitor Louize Harries, formerly of Prick Your Finger and now engaged in her own fine art textiles practice.

Digital Encounters-Louise Harries robotcontactsheet
Louise Harries, Robot contact sheet.

How did you tackle the brief: Digital Encounters?
The question the curator set us was ‘How do you see the future of textiles and it’s relationship to digital media?’ Coming up with ideas for anything is the easy part for me; it’s the editing of them that is the harder bit! But, as the question was wide it was a good chance to tie up and bring together lots of ideas I had floating around and form them into something new. The development came with doing lots of research, starting with the stuff I am already into, which at the moment is sci-fi and robotploitation films (Cherry 2000, Sex Kittens Go To College, Metropolis) so it was like a giant join up the dots. I had also just finished reading Homer’s Iliad and I realised that Hephaestus (who makes Achilles’ armour) had golden mechanical handmaidens to assist him… so there it all was… the first mention of robots, and female ones… and the idea which every crafts person struggles with, which is the labour involved in making. Even Hephaestus struggled and he was the Greek god of craft. ‘Future’ in today’s discourse is often about progress and speed, but making handwoven tapestries must be one of the slowest techniques known to humans since the process hasn’t essentially changed since the 3rd century. So the only time it will speed up is if a weave bot is invented: I thought I’d become my own Hephaestus golden handmaid and using the technology I had available my on my iphone 4 I filmed and edited myself weaving a series of robot-selfies! I don’t tend to focus or attach myself too heavily to outcomes, so I see them almost as a side effect of the process and research and explorations. I welcome developments along the way and trust in any last minute swerves and detours!

Charley Mortley - Digital Depth of Fold
Charlie Mortley, Digital Depth of Fold.

What was the process of creation?
It was long! I can and do work to tight deadlines, so before each project I make a timetable so I know roughly how long I can spend doing R&R vs making… but this project had a long lead time so I enjoyed myself!

Digital Encounters-JamesFox_NotNow_2014
James Fox, Not Now.

Did you learn anything new from taking part in this exhibition?
YES! I learnt how to edit and do special effects on my phone and that I need to practice my public speaking cos I ALWAYS do a bit of a freezer during any presentations and symposiums and find myself thinking of odd stuff just when I’m supposed to be answering questions!

Digital Encounters-Faye Tinmouth_IT_PhotoChristopherTurner_2014
Faye Tinmouth

What else have you been working on this summer?
This summer I’ve also been working as part of an amazing collective set up by Lyall Hakaraia from Vogue Fabrics in Dalston. It’s called Vogue goes Rogue and we have done a series of creative journeys or ritualistic corporate journeys which have involved making totems and much magic and fun; for instance I made a 5×4 meter totem called THE COLLECTOR which we took to Glastonbury, paraded through Hackney and used in a performace at the Ram Place pop up fashion market/space set up by the Barbican as part of curation for the John Paul Gaultier exhibition.

Digital Encounters-Carol Quarini_unheededwarning_2014
Carol Quarini, Unheeded Warning.

What is your favourite method of textile construction at the moment and why?
My favorite method of textile construction is a hard one as I have a big love for all forms of constructed textiles… but having said that I do love weaving! I love that most methods are simple to grasp but take a life time to master, so you can always improve and you learn constantly. And it can all be done with really simple equipment: the fact that you only need two sticks or one hook or a basic frame to make the most amazing stuff still excites me!!

The Digital Encounters exhibition takes place at the Herbert Read Gallery on the UCA Canterbury campus and finishes on the 26th July so you have just a few days left to take a look at all the work on show for yourself.

@UCA_Crysalis
www.twitter.com/UCA_Crysalis
#digitalencounters

Categories ,Canterbury, ,Carol Quarini, ,Charlie Mortley, ,Cherry 2000, ,Crysalis Project, ,Digital Encounters, ,Faye Tinmouth, ,hackney, ,Handwoven, ,Hephaestus, ,Herbert Read Gallery, ,Iliad, ,interview, ,iphone 4, ,James Fox, ,Jenna Rossi‐Camus, ,Louise Harries, ,Louize Harries, ,Lyall Hakaraia, ,Metropolis, ,Moving Textiles, ,Prick your Finger, ,Ram Place, ,robot-selfies, ,Robotploitation, ,Sci-Fi, ,Sex Kittens Go To College, ,Tapestry, ,THE COLLECTOR, ,UCA Canterbury, ,University for the Creative Arts, ,Vogue Fabrics, ,Vogue goes Rogue

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