Amelia’s Magazine | Lu Flux introduces Sea and Be Seen A/W 2011 and A-Lu-Ha S/S 2012 collections

Lu-Flux-SS-2012-by-Antonia-Parker
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

This year Lu Flux decided to show in the main exhibition area of London Fashion Week, away from Estethica for the first time. I was delighted to see that her stand was the usual riot of colour, a return to the mix and match patchwork aesthetic from which she strayed a tiny bit last season. Under the desk was a giant cookie, created by Millie’s Cookies as a winning design for their Cookie Couture Collection. It was inspired by her new S/S 2012 A-Lu-Ha collection, with bold swirls based on the design of a Tiki mask. It’s been awhile since I checked in with ACOFI featured eco designer Lu Flux, so it’s definitely time to catch up on the past two seasons.

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Estelle Morris.

For your A/W 2011 collection you worked with Shetland wool producers Jamieson & Smith – how did this come about and did you learn anything interesting about wool production on your recent trip to the Shetland isles?
I have always appreciated and supported British manufacturers and the use of local produce; I believe that Jamieson & Smith represent the essence of this very well. I am also drawn to the Shetland Islands and was very intrigued to understand the natural and careful processing of the wool, which uses the crofters’ traditional and precious methods from start to finish. 

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by SarahJayneDraws
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Sarah Jayne Morris.   

The collection was inspired by creatures of the deep sea – how did this translate into the full collection, which features some opulent velvets and beautiful bold prints?
The collection takes moments from the deep dark depths of the sea and exaggerates their textures and forms, the embroidery for example references the bioluminescent creatures and the fabric was manipulatated to resemble giant clams and anemones.    

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux Sea & Be Seen Autumn Winter 2011 by Sam Parr
Lu Flux Sea & Be Seen A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Sea & Be Seen is in the shops now – where can fans of Lu Flux find a piece in the UK?
You can find the new collection in Labour of Love in Islington, London, 69b Broadway Market, East London and Wolf & Badger in West London.


Your videos are always truly wonderful – what were your storyboard ideas for A/W 2011? It has a very decadent esoteric and otherworldly feel.
The A/W 2011 Sea & Be Seen video portrays a group of pleasure seekers tired of each other’s company and so to entice a change of mood the hostess offers a mysterious and magical gift. The gift unleashes the dreamy aquatic motifs of the collection which whirl around the velvet-draped den, sending spirits rocketing. Neil O’Driscoll (the director that I work with) wanted to introduce more animation following on from the S/S 2011 film and so we used the illustrations from the prints (drawn by Dan Arnold) and brought them to life.  

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Amber Grayson
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Amber Grayson.


You have given the S/S 2012 A-Lu-Ha video a retro feel thanks to the soundtrack and camera work, was this a deliberate attempt to get away from a too heavily Hawaiian feel, and what inspired it? Food also features heavily – what dictated your choice of food?
There was quite a prominent sense of the 60’s in the Hawaiian imagery and research that I looked at during the initial stages of the collection, so the soundtrack for Barbarella seemed quite complimentary. British car boot sales and village fetes combined with an English tea party were the influences for the elements of food in the video, which is why we used things like blancmange, jelly, tea, hundreds and thousands, and even a Victoria sponge cake covered in sand. Blancmange is quite simply disgusting if you haven’t tried it by the way!

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

This season sees a return to your colourful patchwork best… what is it that you love most about creating fashion and which processes can you not live without?
I love that I am able to create fashion every day and I like to think about my garments being found in all four corners of the world, seen by a worldwide audience. I would say patchworking is my inherent process, as it is my signature technique and I include it in all of my collections.    

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux Tiki face by Amber Grayson
Lu Flux Tiki face by Amber Grayson.

What do you think it is in your DNA that makes you so attracted to colourful whimsy? Can you directly relate it back to anything you grew up with or fell in love with as a child?
Ha! I must have been born on a patchwork rug! Well I have learnt a lot from my mum in terms of the methods I use. My first making memory I have is of myself, my mum and my cousin making ragdolls together -mine had long black plaited wool hair in bunches but we never got around to creating the facial features. I still have her, but I have never put a face on her.    

Lu Flux SS 2012 by Megan Turner-Jones
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Megan Turner-Jones.

Do you ever take notice of wider fashion trends, or indeed other trends in life and do these ever effect the way you design?
I don’t really take any notice of the trends going on around me; I just design and build in my own world.

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

What started on you the path of design for the current collection – eg tiki masks and aloha style – A-Lu-Ha!
It was a day in the depths of winter and I was listening to Hawaii Hour on Angel radio (an Isle of Wight radio station with the tag line Music for the Mature Listener) and it played brilliant non-stop vintage Hawaii songs. I think that was the seed of inspiration which led me to this collection. 

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer.

I really love the way your champion other designers on your own blog. For example you have friends all over the world such as Judi of Vanguard Works and Studio Tipi – where do you meet these people and will you collaborate with any of them?
Well Judi actually found me; she has a couple of my dresses. I love discovering new artists and illustrators, it opens more doors and by collaborating with them it adds other dynamic elements to my work.    

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

How do you find out about Lu Flux fans such as the Japanese blogger Chiaki, and who would your ideal Lu Flux wearer be?
I found out about Chiaki through my Japanese agents who are constantly updating me on the goings on in Japanese fashion and press. I like it when people wear outfits which match their character, like Brie Larson for example. She is an American actress who stars in a show called The United States of Tara and she wore my Boo Boo Bear dress. After meeting her I thought they went hand in hand.

You can read more about Lu Flux in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,69b Broadway Market, ,A-Lu-Ha, ,A/W 2011, ,ACOFI, ,Amber Grayson, ,Antonia Parker, ,Barbarella, ,Boo Boo Bear, ,Brie Larson, ,Chiaki, ,crofting, ,Dan Arnold, ,Eco fashion, ,Estelle Morris, ,Hawaii Hour, ,Hawaiian, ,isle of wight, ,Jamieson & Smith, ,japanese, ,Labour of Love, ,Lesley T Spencer, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Flux, ,Megan Turner-Jones, ,Millie’s Cookies, ,S/S 2012, ,Sam Parr, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sea & Be Seen, ,Shetland Islands, ,Shetland Wool, ,Studio Tipi, ,Tiki, ,United States of Tara, ,Vanguard Works, ,Wolf & Badger

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Amelia’s Magazine | Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio: New S/S 2012 Season Presentation Preview and Interview

Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska
Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

I was very surprised and pleased to encounter German designer Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio at the stands during London Fashion Week in September. You may remember that I was most entranced by her rose covered A/W 2011 collection (read my interview here) but I was equally stunned by her skeleton influenced collection for S/S 2012.

Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

It was lovely to see you at LFW – what was behind your choice to present the new collection in the UK and was it a success?
First of all: I love London. It feels like a second home. But it’s also the home of innovative, internationally renowned young labels. Nowhere else is given so much support to young designers. We had great feedback, met a lot of interesting people and got lots of good press. We will be definitely back next season. It won’t work out without consistency. 

Prose SS 2012 loose_leather_jacket_front
Prose SS 2012 print_dress_print_catsuit_2
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_dress_tight_strapless_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_cape_loose_blouse
I love your use of different models in the look book – what inspired this choice and where did you find the models?
I wanted the new collection to be presented by people that have their own special something and are all beautiful because of their individuality. The cast of models is a potpourri: friends, neighbours and additionally we did a street casting. 

Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

The lace pattern has the effect of looking almost like bones and the whole collection has a tribal feel – was this intentional and are you happy with this interpretation?
Many pieces have names such as Skeleton Dress or X-ray shirt. The idea has been to adapt the lace to the body so that the natural shape and construction of the body is emphazised. 

Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_tight_-baggy_pants_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_shirt_dress_front
What inspired the colour palette, which is very neutral apart from a coral pink?
I wanted to focus on the way of using the lace and the combination of heavy and light materials, playing with transparency. I was not interested in using colour this season. 

Prose SS 12 by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

Who do you hope will wear Prose S/S 2012?
The collection movie is the answer to that question. I’m not designing for a type. People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to their individual needs and sytle. 

YouTube Preview Image
YouTube Preview Image

Where can we buy this in the UK?
The collection will be avaialble in New York, Paris and Italy. And online at Miosato.

Prose SS12 by Estelle Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

Will we see you next season, and do you have anything special planned that you can share with us?
Definitely a beautiful new collection and hopefully presented on the catwalk! We are busy on working out the plans for next season. 

Prose SS 2012 x-ray_dress_front
Prose SS 2012 x-ray_top_print_trousers

Categories ,Estelle Morris, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,German, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Prose Studio, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Skeleton Dress, ,X-ray

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Florian Jayet

Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West.

I think it was round about show three at Fashion Mode when I was suddenly implored to shunt up into a non existent space so that two more people could be squeezed on to the end of the front row. Now excuse me, cure but if you’re that late to a fashion show, order isn’t it just polite behaviour to hover at the back? That’s certainly what I do when the situation arises.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West.

So it was with mild aggravation that I watched the Florian Jayet collection parade in front of me. Jayet is known for his structured outfits befitting of a modern amazonian, viagra and for S/S 2012 he was inspired by the Japanese myth of Yurei, whereby those who are murdered must spend the afterlife seeking their killer in order to free their tormented spirits and finally reach heaven.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet by Sarah Jayne Morris
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

I think it must have been in the styling that this concept really took hold – models had seriously over the top back-combed hair, as if dragged through an otherworldly mire. Added to this they wore exceptionally dark eye make-up and bloodily smudged lips that gave the impression they had been feasting on something unholy. To top the look off they wore chain headdresses that draped low over their eyes. It was all in all an unappealing look that dominated the clothing far more than was necessary.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Far more successful were the smart tailored separates in white: structured skater dresses featuring cut out details and jackets with high waisted peplums and flowing caped sleeves. However printed floral lace panels and bodies were wide off the mark, giving the collection an unnecessarily cheap finish. Let’s hope that next season sees Florian Jayet return to form.

Categories ,Afterlife, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Florian Jayet, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,japanese, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Myth, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Yurei

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: MMC Studio Design

MMC Studio Design S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris
MMC Studio Design S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

MMC Studio Design closed Friday night at Fashion Week Poland with a dramatic catwalk show. Things kicked off with a stage hand struggling gleefully down the stage as she held aloft a large amount of helium balloons. As the lights went up she released them towards the ceiling as fake snow began to fall. Except this being a spring/summer show I guess it was supposed to be more like confetti.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Out stepped the models in a selection of relaxed white separates paired with heavy white eyelids that blinked again the snowy onslaught. Legs were daubed with lines in place of old fashioned stockings and their feet were clad in white Dr. Martens. For variety there were a few grey garments and the odd bit of swishy transparent chiffon. As the lighting was lowered to ever more dramatic levels the snow – sorry, confetti – continued to fall. The final pieces really maxed up the sportsluxe look with deep crusts of sequins arranged in snowy camouflage patterns. A collection fit for an ice queen, sorry, summer princess. You can read my review of MMC Studio Design‘s A/W 2011 collection here.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
YouTube Preview Image
Watch the finale here.

At the end everyone had fun playing with the thick piles of white tissue paper that had descended onto the catwalk.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Systeme D and Jemima Daisy play in the *snow*

Categories ,Confetti, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Grey, ,Jemima Daisy, ,Lodz, ,MMC Studio Design, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Sequins, ,Snow, ,sportsluxe, ,Systeme D

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Martyna Czerwinska

Martyna Czerwinska by Cruz
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012 by Cruz.

Martyna Czerwinska was first to show on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk on Friday morning bright and early. Her show was set to an old-school silhouette dance and featured plenty of elegant dresses that would be fit for an afternoon tea dance. Long dresses with inset patchwork fishtail trains were off set by the shortest of shorts, in velvet and patchwork. Men wore dashing patterned shirts with skinny ties and curious pink mountain brooches, but the stand out outfit for men was a dashing mustard zig-zag suit worn with a casual t-shirt underneath.

Martyna Czerwinska by Sarah Jayne Draws
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Cruz, ,dance, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Lodz, ,Martyna Czerwinska, ,menswear, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Patchwork, ,Sarah Jayne Morris

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Jonny Gordon-Farleigh, editor of STIR magazine

STIR to Action book cover by Bec Young
STIR Vol.1 cover by Bec Young.

New magazine STIR carries the strap line ANGER. ANALYSIS. ACTION. For anyone disillusioned with the current state of affairs it’s a must read collection of articles, interviews and radio shows which question the direction in which our supposedly ‘civilised’ world is going. This weekend they take part in the Stoke Newington Literary Festival, chairing a discussion about ethical fashion at 12.30 on Sunday 9th June at the Town Hall.

STIR to Action book illustration by German Gullon
STIR to Action book illustration by German Gullon.

Find STIR to Action online and now in print, as a volume of collected writings and interviews about co-operative and community-orientated alternatives, all accompanied by imaginative illustrations (many of which have been created by artists that will be familiar to Amelia’s Magazine readers). I spoke with founding editor Jonny Gordon-Farleigh.

Food-Justice-STIR-to-Action-Book-illustration-by-Sarah-Jayne-Morris
Food Justice, illustration by Sarah Jayne-Morris.

Stir has made the leap from online to printed publication: first as the book, STIR Vol.1 and now as a print version of the magazine. What prompted the move and what has the journey to print been like? A steep learning curve?
I think all platforms – both online and offline – are really important and we are still publishing online but also as a quarterly print magazine. I think we need to use different platforms strategically and so I’m not going to say one is more important than the other. It’s obviously very difficult to publish time-sensitive articles in a quarterly magazine that only appears every three months. I like to think of our quarterly magazine as slow news – issues that need time to be properly analysed and understood and to also give space to develop potential alternatives. On the other hand, if a campaign group wants to publish a piece about an event or mobilisation next week then I will publish on the online blog and distribute via social media. We are also looking into publishing a small free paper with selected content from the online blog and print issue so it can reach places that don’t sell magazines, such as social enterprise co-working spaces. It has actually been a well-paced launch into print from building an online readership to building an offline community through events. I needed to know and felt we had the support before launching into print.

STIR to Action Book illustration by Alex Charnley
STIR illustration by Alex Charnley.

Was crowd funding easy to do? What have been the highs and lows of taking this route to publication? 
Crowdfunding was an interesting process for so many reasons. Firstly, crowdfunding allows us to fund projects without appealing to wealthly individuals – philanthropists – and also avoids the restrictions and conditions of grant-making bodies. Also, it creates an international community of co-creators and contributors for your project: Those who couldn’t contribute financially, offered their skills as graphic designers and artists. We even launched the book at The Firebox because a campaign group (Counterfire) couldn’t give us money as they were fundraising themselves, but did have an amazing event space in Kings Cross. Crowdfunding also allows you to self-publish and this gives you control over the creative process. The biggest problem with self-publishing is distribution and this is something we need to seriously address. The publishing industry had a monopoly on this before the emergence of the internet but anyone will tell you that it’s still really difficult to distribute your own work. (Hell yeah! – Amelia) So finding ways of distributing the funded book was certainly challenging.

STIR to Action book illustration Wizard of Oz by Edd Baldry
Wizard of Oz, STIR illustration by Edd Baldry.

How did you find the contributing illustrators, and what was the process of their contribution?
I had worked with a few of the contributing illustrators before – Edd Baldry and India Rose Harvey — and also knew a few from other publications like the Occupied Times (Alex Charnley). However, Twitter was very helpful in finding new illustrators (thanks for the tweet Amelia!!) and I would have to say most of them enthusiastically responded to a call-out on Twitter. The creative process was largely asking them to respond to the an article. We would then talk about the ideas and see what could work to represent the piece. Every artist is different and that’s what makes it so interesting.

STIR to Action Book illustration by India Rose Harvey
STIR illustration by India Rose Harvey.

How did you decide on the content of STIR Vol.1? Who contributed and what have they written about?
The content for STIR Vol.1 was selected from two years’ worth of online publishing at www.stirtoaction.com and we chose the articles and interviews that really showcased the emerging community-led and co-operative alternatives in our food and finance systems. We then invited 10 artists to contribute original pieces of art for the printed publication (see above).

We had a whole range of contributors including an economist, David Boyle, from the New Economics Foundation who wrote about the disconnect between wealth and money and how we need to design and scale-up alternative forms of exchange such as local currencies. The philosopher and Defend the Right to Protest activist Nina Power analysed the London Riots of 2011 with a review of a new book that was published on the events. I also published a piece by Guppi Bola and Bethan Graham about food justice, why the food system is broken and what creative communities around London are doing to change it for the better. We also featured the story of the Real Food store in Exeter that came out of Transition Exeter and was funded through a community share scheme, as a look at the rise of new social enterprises. The founders of Co-opoly – the boardgame of co-operatives – wrote about their new creation and how Monopoly was originally created during the New Deal era in America to teach tenants how to deal with bad landlords.

STIR to Action Book illustration by Alicja Falgowska
STIR illustration by Alicja Falgowska.

Anger is a cornerstone of your creation, which is somewhat at odds with the positivity of the Transition Network, of which you are part. Why do you think it’s important to find an outlet for anger?
It’s an interesting question and I definitely think there is a case for anger. There is something almost admirable about the Transition Network’s early decision not to engage with what might be called antagonistic campaigns, but there has definitely been a significant shift recently — the ‘No’ campaign to Costa Coffee in Totnes was fully supported by Transition Town Totnes. Also, I think it’s important to say that ‘No’ campaigns are far more effective and likely to succeed if they are part of a positive effort – like the initiatives that make up the Transition Network.

Also, insisting on always being positive is problematic as it can become as counterproductive as being the constant bearer of bad news, an argument that Smartmeme – a creative campaign agency – make in STIR Vol.1. So I think it’s philosophically shallow to see anger as a deformative emotion, if it’s part of a campaign for change it can have a reformative effect. Anger without new political options can be dangerous and that’s why the positive work of the Transition Network is really important. It’s worth saying that anger only transforms into cynicism when we accept the false political choices we are given and give up on alternatives.

STIR magazine issue 01 2013
STIR magazine issue 01 2013.

Another point to make is that as the Transition Network scales-up and mainstreams itself, it will have to challenge the current distribution of resources and space. It is not good enough to say that you won’t shop at a multinational supermarket, when they are draining resources and space from the communities, distorting business rates, and making it far more difficult for community-owned shops to establish themselves.

This can also be explained by an interview with George Monbiot about land inequality and how UK land prices have gone up 10-12% in the last few years. The land buyers, in this instance, are city bankers who are using their bonuses to invest in land. This has made it ten times more difficult to use the land for alternative purposes, such as land co-operatives and community farms. We need to be angry about this and find ways of challenging land inequality and access if we going to be able to do the positive work that the Transition Network promotes.

On top of this, while the aspiration to generate your own energy is something we all should be pursuing, we also need to insist – through protest, direct action and lobbying — that the fossil fuel industries keep it in the ground. All of that positivity will be irrelevant if these industries are not disrupted by public action. Lastly, I’m very suspicious of categorising activists. It suggests that there is one kind of person who will do the negative work, such as lying on airport runways or occupying power stations, and then on the other side you have the people who do all the positive activity like community gardens and upcycling workshops. I think we have the capacity to do both but should always remember to do it for the fun of it!

Will there be a STIR Vol.2? If so what can we expect from it?
As we’ve launched a quarterly magazine, the STIR volumes will most likely be bi-annual. We publish so many unpredictable stories I couldn’t really say!

Where can people get hold of the publication?
We sell STIR Vol.1 in our online shop here, and readers can sign up for a subscription for the quarterly magazine here. Our quarterly magazine – STIR – is being sold in 30 shops across the UK (find stockists here) and we have just started working with an ethical distributor – INK – so potentially lots more in the near future. You can buy the first issue of our new magazine with this Amelia’s Magazine Special Discount offer: click here for 25% off cover price and free P&P (£2.95).

What are your hopes for 2013?
It would have to be to continue to collaborate with more social enterprises and co-ops in working towards bringing the ideas in the magazine into our communities.

Categories ,Alex Charnley, ,Alicja Falgowska, ,Bec Young, ,Bethan Graham, ,Co-opoly, ,Counterfire, ,Crowdfunding, ,David Boyle, ,Defend the Right to Protest, ,Edd Baldry, ,George Monbiot, ,German Gullon, ,Guppi Bola, ,India Rose Harvey, ,INK, ,Jonny Gordon-Farleigh, ,Kings Cross, ,London Riots, ,New Economics Foundation, ,Nina Power, ,Occupied Times, ,Real Food, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Smartmeme, ,STIR, ,STIR to Action, ,STIR Vol.1, ,Stoke Newington Literary Festival, ,The Firebox, ,Totnes, ,Town Hall, ,Transition Exeter, ,Transition network, ,Transition Town Totnes, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | X Factor 2011: An Illustrated Retrospective

XFactor_LittleMix_by_AlisonDay
Little Mix by Alison Day.

Every year X Factor is my guilty pleasure, something to look forward to as the weather draws in – a comforting combination of manufactured spats, OTT styling and dance routines and rubbish songs. And it may be over for 2011, but I couldn’t resist seeing what my trusty twitter followers could come up with by way of illustrations…. was Amelia Lily so popular to draw because of all that pink, and what to make of the fact that runner up cutie-pie Marcus is totally unrepresented? Who knows: it’s never quite obvious who will do well out of the X Factor: scroll on and enjoy!

Amelia Lily by Karina Jarv
Amelia Lily by Karina Jarv.

Misha B by Karolina Burdon
Misha B by Karolina Burdon.

Kitty Brucknell by Stephanie Brown (FAIIINT)
Kitty Brucknell by Stephanie Brown (FAIIINT)

X Factor's Johnny by Ashley Fauguel
X Factor’s Johnny by Ashley Fauguel.

Amelia Lily by sarahjaynedraws
Amelia Lily by sarahjaynedraws.

Pick n Little Mix by Rhea Babla
Pick n Little Mix by Rhea Babla.

Amelia Lily by Veronica Rowlands
Amelia Lily by Veronica Rowlands.

pic n mix by Chris Sav
pic n mix by Chris Sav.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Amelia Lily, ,Ashley Fauguel, ,Chris Sav, ,FAIIINT, ,illustration, ,Johnny, ,Karina Jarv, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Little Mix, ,Marcus, ,music, ,Rhea Babla, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Stephanie Brown, ,Veronica Rowlands, ,X Factor

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Amelia’s Magazine | Halloween 2011: a Ghoulish Celebration of the Dead in Illustration

Halloween by Karolina Burdon
Halloween by Karolina Burdon.

And so Halloween rolls around again! I’ve loved Halloween since I was a pre-teen, when I hosted annual parties for my schoolmates where I always dressed as a witch. We had apple bobbing and ‘guess the body part’ style games. (peeled grapes, cold spaghetti, jelly mashed up, etc…) Ever since then I have taken many an opportunity to dress up as a ghoul or a monster – especially during ‘night games’ hosted on Forest School Camps for children. I don’t know why, but I really relish spooking people out in the dark.

Halloween by Emmeline Pidgen
Halloween by Emmeline Pidgen.

More recently a few Amelia’s Magazine parties have conveniently coincided with this time of year – my second issue was memorably launched in the ancient disco room behind the George Tavern on Commercial Road, now boarded up. And a few years ago I went out on the town with a group of my interns – all of us sporting fake blood and fangs.

All Hallows Eve by Devin McGrath
All Hallows Eve by Devin McGrath.

I’ve just come back from Poland where the Americanised version of Halloween has yet to make a serious dent on traditions. All Saints’ Day on 1st November is a national holiday and families take the time to remember much loved relatives by placing flowers and candles on their graves. It’s a tradition I think we could do more of in the UK since we no longer seem to have much space to honour those we have lost. Instead Halloween (which has come from a combination of remembering our dead and a celebration of autumn) is merely a garish commercial opportunity. When I was little I had to make all of my own Halloween outfits and decorations, but in the past ten years I have noticed a huge increase in the amount of Halloween tat (and branded food) for sale come late October.

Halloween by Ada Jusic
Halloween by Ada Jusic.

Don’t get me wrong though, I still love Halloween even if I no longer have time to properly enjoy it myself. And I am going to make damned sure my child has the opportunity to dress up, play games and scare themselves and others senseless too. In the meantime, feast your eyes on these ghoulish illustrations.

Halloween Pumpkin by Jacqueline Valencia
Halloween Pumpkin by Jacqueline Valencia.

Sugar Skull by Jacqueline Valencia
Sugar Skull by Jacqueline Valencia.

Bacall SugarSkull Halloween by SarahJayneDraws
Brooks SugarSkull Halloween SarahJayneDraws
garbo by Sarah Jayne morris
Halloween Sugar Skulls by Sarah Jayne Draws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

Halloween by Estelle Morris
Halloween by Estelle Morris.

.

Categories ,Ada Jusic, ,All Saints’ Day, ,Devin McGrath, ,Emmeline Pidgen, ,Estelle Morris, ,Forest School Camps, ,Ghouls, ,Hallowe’en, ,illustration, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Karolina Burdon, ,October, ,poland, ,Pumpkins, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Sugar Skull, ,Witches

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Amelia’s Magazine | A Review of Kenneth Grange: Making Britain Modern at the Design Museum

1. Kenneth Grange by Sophia O'Connor
Kenneth Grange exhibition by Sophia O’Connor.

Art galleries can sometimes make one feel a little ill at ease, whether it’s the worry that you will somehow damage the pristine white walls and gleaming floor tiles, or that you simply won’t understand the content of the exhibition, what it all means. Entering the Kenneth Grange exhibition at London’s Design Museum though, visitors looked instantly at home.

15. Kenneth Grange by Sarah Jayne
Kenneth Grange by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Mostly, this is because Kenneth Grange’s work is so recognisable that it puts people at ease. We are relieved to find things we know: Wilkinson Sword razors, a Kenwood mixer, Parker pens, Kodak cameras, Thermos flasks, the black London taxi and red post box. This is a useful starting point from which to ask people of all backgrounds – creative or not – to consider what made these products so well-used and enjoyed, what design elements were required to achieve commercial success, and what kind of principles Kenneth Grange followed to produce a body of work which varied enormously in its subject matter, but was broadly consistent in its simple, understated character.

2. London taxi cab by Luke Hayes
3. Pens by Luke Hayes
Photography by Luke Hayes.

Stepping in to what sometimes felt like a homewares store, it quickly seemed that Kenneth Grange was concerned to create products which were useful to people. This sounds obvious, but it is perhaps one of the reasons the general public is so familiar with his work. Only a few of the products on show were unrealised, and Grange is himself quoted in the exhibition, saying ‘I cannot in my heart go with something if it cannot be a commercial success, it has got to sell.’ And in order to sell, Grange designed his products to fit with the times, demonstrated particularly with his range of Wilkinson Sword razors, which he developed over decades according to ergonomic principles and blade technology. He focused on ensuring clients were happy by showing them models and prototypes, and doing extensive testing. For example, we learn that he came up with the first Kenwood Chef design in only four days and had half a model ready to explain how it worked.

4. Kenwood mixers by Caitlin Sinclair
5. Kenwood mixer by Caitlin Sinclair
6. Wilkinson Sword razors by Caitlin Sinclair
Photography by Caitlin Sinclair.

This exhibition really excelled at telling the story of Kenneth Grange’s life, from his youth at the Willesden School of Arts and Crafts in the 1940s, his early career working for various architects including Gordon & Ursula Bowyer and Jack Howe, starting his own company, Kenneth Grange Design in 1956, and later co-founding the Pentagram consultancy in 1972. His products were displayed chronologically so that we gained a sense of Grange’s career through the years, and there were helpful contextual notes to explain how his work fit in to larger developments within the post war design industry and modernism movement.

7. Irons by Luke Hayes
Photography by Luke Hayes.

8. Thermos flasks by Caitlin Sinclair
9. Cameras by Caitlin Sinclair
10. Reuters computer by Caitlin Sinclair
11. Men's toiletries by Caitlin Sinclair
Photography by Caitlin Sinclair.

Most fascinating were the glimpses we received into Kenneth Grange’s work ethic and personality, which gave an added depth to the content on display. For instance, we were told how he created a plasticine model for the UK’s first 1960 parking meter while on honeymoon, and that when working on the High Speed InterCity 125 train, he was merely asked to design the exterior decoration but instead overhauled the train’s entire body and set a world speed record.

12. Parking meter by Caitlin Sinclair
13. Train by Caitlin Sinclair
Photography by Caitlin Sinclair.

Amongst the more popular pieces, some genius, lesser-known gems spoke of Kenneth Grange’s playfulness, including:

• A 1965 Varaflame Comet lighter, with a special surface produced by placing mouldings in a drum with walnut shells, meaning that the plastic absorbed the shell oil and didn’t reveal fingerprints.

• The 1971 Design Council award-winning Variset hat and coat hooks, where you can adjust the number and type of coat hooks on display, and slide trousers out easily through a clever gap in the hanger’s corner.

• The 1973 sherry bottle which makes a glugging noise when pouring, a project Grange completed with graphic designer Alan Fletcher.

14. Collarless shirt by Caitlin Sinclair
• A smart, collarless shirt designed with Margaret Howell.

• The delightful mustard-coloured Edith Chair for the elderly, which really could be perfect for all-ages sitting.

16. Really useful bookcase by Caitlin Sinclair
• A 2002 Really useful bookcase, which doubles as a coffin – quite morbid, but hugely practical.

Overall, Making Britain Modern worked brilliantly because it mimicked the same philosophy applied by Kenneth Grange to his products, making art gallery going a friendly experience, and rather a lot of fun.

Kenneth Grange – Making Britain Modern closed at the Design Museum on 30 October 2011.

Categories ,Design Council, ,Design Museum, ,Edith Chair, ,Gordon and Ursula Bowyer, ,High Speed InterCity 125 train, ,Jack Howe, ,Kenneth Grange, ,Kenwood, ,Kenwood Chef, ,Kodak, ,London taxi, ,Luke Hayes, ,Margaret Howell, ,Parker, ,Pentagram, ,Really useful bookcase, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sophia O’Connor, ,Thermos, ,Varaflame Comet lighter, ,Wilkinson Sword, ,Willesden School of Arts and Crafts

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