Rodarte

Amelia’s Magazine | Javari Shoes for Show Exhibition Review

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Katie Eary for Nike by Eccabin
Katie Eary for Nike by Eccabin.
 
As if we needed any more proof that shoes are a form of art, online shoe connoisseurs, Javari held a dazzling exhibition over the weekend, showcasing highly desirable footwear designed by some of the world’s most prominent designers.
 
Nicholas Kirkwood by Eccabin
Nicholas Kirkwood Alice in Wonderland Heels by Eccabin.
 
From the practical to the not so practical, men and women alike have been fascinated with the enchanting allure of shoes ever since cavemen figured out that walking around barefoot wasn’t exactly ideal. As a day to day essential, our little tootsies would be truly lost without the good old shoe, but we all know that societies love for footwear goes a little deeper than a mere practicality designed to get you from A to B.
 
Shoes for Show Nina Ricci Daphne Guinness
Nina Ricci for Daphne Guiness by Rebecca Higgins
Nina Ricci for Daphne Guinness by Rebecca Higgins.
 
Shoes for Show Natasha Marrow
Natacha Marro by Rebecca Higgins
Natacha Marro for Shoes for Show by Rebecca Higgins.
 
If there’s one thing that any self-respecting girl (or boy) knows, it’s the unstoppable power of well placed shoe. Clearly something the likes of Gareth Pugh, Christian Louboutin and Nina Ricci are all fully aware of. The exhibition was like a sweet shop for all fans of fancy footwear. Each shoe was presented within a structured cubic stand, mirroring the dramatic silhouettes of the shoes themselves, not to mention the mathematical genius surely required for creating such sky-scrapingly tall heels.

Shoes for Show Gareth Pugh Beyonce
Gareth Pugh for Beyonce.

Shoes for Show Katie Eary Nike
Katie Eary for Nike.

 Shoes for Show Nicholas Kirkwood Alice in Wonderland
Nicholas Kirkwood for Alice in Wonderland.
 
The exhibition was truly a feast for the eyes drawing together three sections: Fashion’s Catwalk Spectacle, Couture Clientele and Innovative Design, all of which presented one-off pieces by the likes of Katie Eary for Nike, Nina Ricci for Daphne Guinness and Christian Louboutin for Rodarte.

YouTube Preview ImageRun the World (Girls)

The shoes and boots sparkled in all their glory, whilst Gareth Pugh’s giant gold stompers dominated the Couture Clientele section, just as Beyoncé did when she debuted them in her Run the World video. Catching my eye, along with countless others no doubt, was the enchanting Alice in Wonderland Heels by Nicholas Kirkwood; intricately designed teacups, keys and chequerboard print heels were just as captivating as Lewis Carroll’s novel itself, delivering attention to detail like I’ve never seen before.

Shoes for Show Rupert Sanderson Aida
Rupert Sanderson for Aida.
 
Shoes for Show Niamh O'Conner & Emily Crane
Niamh O’Conner & Emily Crane.
 
Shoes for Show Sophie Grace Webster Manolo Blahnik
Sophie Grace Webster for Manolo Blahnik.
 
Shoes for Show did exactly what it says on the tin: these shoes are solely for show, not for touching and definitely not for trying on! It turns out many people at the exhibition didn’t quite grasp this concept, as a few sawdust-between-the-ears individuals asked if they could put their very own feet in these one-of-a-kind creations. I do sympathise with said individuals as I admit, it was a struggle keeping my hands off Meadham Kirchhoff’s green and pink glitter pom-pom wedges designed by Nicholas Kirkwood for S/S 2012.

Shoes for Show Nichola Kirkwood Meadham Kirchhoff
Meadham Kirchhoff by Justyna Sowa
Nicholas Kirkwood for Meadham Kirchhoff by Justyna Sowa.
 
Shoes for Show Christian Louboutin Rodarte
Christian Louboutin by Justyna Sowa
Christian Louboutin for Rodarte by Justyna Sowa.
 
Fashion over function was the resounding message at the exhibition as I witnessed first-hand some of the craziest, but utterly beautiful designs ever to grace the human foot. The tallest heel in the world came courtesy of Christian Louboutin’s freakishly high ballet pumps designed this year exclusively for the English National Ballet. We were also treated to a miniature version of Alexander McQueen’s Armadillo shoe: the extraordinary curve design footwear that you’ll all remember Lady Gaga teetering around in in last year’s Bad Romance video.

YouTube Preview ImageBad Romance
 
Shoes for Show Christian Louboutin Royal Ballet
Christian Louboutin for Royal Ballet.
 
Shoes for Show Minature McQueen Armadillo
Minature McQueen Armadillo.
 
Shoes for Show Terry de Havilland Ana Matronic
Terry de Havilland for Ana Matronic.
 
Shoes for Show Terry de Havilland for Agent Provocateur
Terry de Havilland for Agent Provocateur.

Fusing fashion and art, the exhibition presented a rare chance to see some of the most exclusive couture pieces of the last two centuries: pieces that have graced the feet of some of the most iconic stars of this generation. Though we all view and admire shoes for more than just their function, Shoes for Show took this admiration to a whole new level, appreciating footwear for its spectacle alone; a spectacle definitely not made for walking!

Written by Sarah Deane on Monday November 14th, 2011 10:14 am

Categories ,Agent Provocateur, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Alice in Wonderland, ,Becky Turl, ,beyonce, ,Brick Lane, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Couture Clientele, ,Daphne Guinness, ,Eccabin, ,Emily Crane, ,English National Ballet, ,Fashion’s Catwalk Spectacle, ,Gareth Pugh, ,Innovative Design, ,Javari, ,Justyna Sowa, ,Katie Eary, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lewis Carroll, ,Meadham Kirchhoff, ,Natacha Barrow, ,Niamh O’Connor, ,Nicholas Kirkwood, ,Nina Ricci, ,Old Truman Brewery, ,Rebecca Higgins, ,Rodarte, ,Rupert Sanderson, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Deane, ,Shoes for Show, ,Sophie Grace Webster

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with jewellery designer Gemma Marissa Murray

by


Illustration by Gemma Smith

Last year I had the privilege of interviewing the amazing Gemma Marissa. Gemma, erectile a jewellery designer and pioneer of individual hand made crochet pieces, website has shown at Estethica for London Fashion Week, sold her designs on Neurotica and has been designing professionally for almost three years.

This coming autumn, she has chosen to launch her home collection and if its anything like her beautiful necklaces and brooches, it will be something for you to covet at home whilst still in-keeping with the vintage hand made aesthetic of her jewellery. So I interviewed Gemma to find out what was in store for the season.

So what was your inspiration for creating a home collection and how do you think your hand made pieces will translate into the look? 
The inspiration for making a homeware collection actually came from me moving house. I started to look for cushions, throws and other pieces to make the place my own that had a unique, hand crafted quality to them, but nothing I saw interested me, and so I started making things for myself! Because I was working on the A/W 2011 accessories collection at the same time, I was very much influenced by this and so its very much inspired by the accessories that I was producing at the time. I suppose I translated them to feel more at home within a comfy old fashioned setting.
 
I’m sure it’s not going to be just your standard cushions though, are you going to venture into some more creative ideas? 
Most pieces are at sample stage right now so it’s all subject to changing as I work through it, but I am working on cushions, throws, decorative wall hangings and lots more. If things go well I really would love to produce crocheted lamp shades, and possibly curtains… I think there are endless possibilities with crochet and I am constantly having new ideas, which I hope I can bring into future homeware collections.


Illustration by Gemma Smith

I actually can’t wait! So what have you learnt since doing your last jewellery collection that has inspired you to create the beautiful new pieces you have now? 
I had a lot of fun with the last collection, filled with brilliant pom pom necklaces, headpieces and much more. But for S/S 2011 I wanted the collection to come back to what the Gemma Marissa brand is all about and what I love to make. This means that I’ve used a lot of natural, floral inspirations; the bluebells and ivy give a very English feel to the collection and the cherry blossoms were inspired by my trip to Japan early last year, the perfect time to see the blossoms in bloom, it was magical!

I can imagine the beauty must have been stunning to see and great inspiration. And talking about the inspiration for the collection, it’s all very mythical with references to natural beauties such as Guinevere and Aphrodite… 
Yes the collection is based on the Pre Raphaelites, whose works always have a mythical, magical feel to them; I just love the colours that are used in the works of artists such as Rosetti and Mucha that are also muted and understated and very beautiful. All of the pieces are named after goddesses or mythical women, such as the afore mentioned Aphrodite, or Pandora. I have always been intrigued by the stories surrounding these women so I thought I could bring this intrigue into my pieces, giving them a very ethereal feel!


 
Well it’s clear that it’s something you’ve always been interested in but S/S 2011 is visibly a move away from the almost fairy like creature designs of previous years. Is this just a new direction or a conscious inspired decision? 
This is definitely something I have always been interested in, I ‘m very much inspired by literature and stories, and this collection is another extension of this. I still, and always will, want my work to have an air of intrigue and other worldliness about it. I think fashion should be fun, and a way to express our personalities, thoughts and feelings, and it is brilliant I get to do this with each new collection as I am always inspired by different things. I am working on my A/W 2011 collection at present, and am busy looking into the Victorian era, an amazing and intriguing time for innovation in design and literature!

Are earrings a new foray for you? I don’t remember seeing them before… 
I hadn’t made earrings before no, but because the work for the S/S 2011 collection was so small and delicate I thought it would be lovely to make crocheted earrings made from a single bluebell or sycamore seed! They are a favourite part of my collection actually, and I wear mine a lot!

So would I – they’re stunning. Which of the key S/S 2011 trends do you think that your pieces fit best with and why?
I love the trend for ‘lady-like’ fashions, which hark back to the 1940′s for that ultra feminine look! Therefore I like the SS 2011 trends such as pastel colours, along with soft, light fabrics such as silk and lace that will work wonderfully alongside my pieces.

And where are you expecting to go from here? Obviously the home line is next but is this testing the water before you plan to release a home collection every season? 
Yes I will still produce a fashion & accessories collection each season, but along side this I hope that the homeware line will continue to expand…

It’s a very exciting prospect if you do. Who are your favourite designers this S/S 2011 and what trends will you mostly be wearing? 
My favourite, as always, is Erdem for his innovative S/S 2011 collection. He is able to make beautiful, feminine clothes that have a very modern feel to them and I especially love this season’s lace work! Also I saw the Kenzo show and just fell in love with the beautiful silks and knits which had a big Japanese influence and was so inspiring for my work. Another absolute favourite is Rodarte and their latest collection is stunning but of course these pieces will all be mixed with looks from the great British high street stores; some I’ve been loving recently are Gap and Anthropologie for their creative knits and beautiful use of fabrics. 

Well I am most definitetly excited to see the finished products. We’ll let Gemma get back to showing her S/S 2011 collection and the new home line but it’s lovely to know that the designer is still sticking to her roots. I can’t wait to see what the future brings for this innovative creative force. Bring on the crochet lampshades I say!

Read our original interview with Gemma here.

Written by Jemma Crow on Wednesday April 20th, 2011 5:07 pm

Categories ,Aphrodite, ,crochet, ,Erdem, ,estethica, ,Gemma Marissa, ,Gemma Smith, ,Homeware, ,Jemma Crow, ,jewellery, ,London Fashion Week, ,Neurotica, ,Pre-Raphaelites, ,Rodarte

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with jewellery designer Gemma Marissa Murray

by


Illustration by Gemma Smith

Last year I had the privilege of interviewing the amazing Gemma Marissa. Gemma, erectile a jewellery designer and pioneer of individual hand made crochet pieces, website has shown at Estethica for London Fashion Week, sold her designs on Neurotica and has been designing professionally for almost three years.

This coming autumn, she has chosen to launch her home collection and if its anything like her beautiful necklaces and brooches, it will be something for you to covet at home whilst still in-keeping with the vintage hand made aesthetic of her jewellery. So I interviewed Gemma to find out what was in store for the season.

So what was your inspiration for creating a home collection and how do you think your hand made pieces will translate into the look? 
The inspiration for making a homeware collection actually came from me moving house. I started to look for cushions, throws and other pieces to make the place my own that had a unique, hand crafted quality to them, but nothing I saw interested me, and so I started making things for myself! Because I was working on the A/W 2011 accessories collection at the same time, I was very much influenced by this and so its very much inspired by the accessories that I was producing at the time. I suppose I translated them to feel more at home within a comfy old fashioned setting.
 
I’m sure it’s not going to be just your standard cushions though, are you going to venture into some more creative ideas? 
Most pieces are at sample stage right now so it’s all subject to changing as I work through it, but I am working on cushions, throws, decorative wall hangings and lots more. If things go well I really would love to produce crocheted lamp shades, and possibly curtains… I think there are endless possibilities with crochet and I am constantly having new ideas, which I hope I can bring into future homeware collections.


Illustration by Gemma Smith

I actually can’t wait! So what have you learnt since doing your last jewellery collection that has inspired you to create the beautiful new pieces you have now? 
I had a lot of fun with the last collection, filled with brilliant pom pom necklaces, headpieces and much more. But for S/S 2011 I wanted the collection to come back to what the Gemma Marissa brand is all about and what I love to make. This means that I’ve used a lot of natural, floral inspirations; the bluebells and ivy give a very English feel to the collection and the cherry blossoms were inspired by my trip to Japan early last year, the perfect time to see the blossoms in bloom, it was magical!

I can imagine the beauty must have been stunning to see and great inspiration. And talking about the inspiration for the collection, it’s all very mythical with references to natural beauties such as Guinevere and Aphrodite… 
Yes the collection is based on the Pre Raphaelites, whose works always have a mythical, magical feel to them; I just love the colours that are used in the works of artists such as Rosetti and Mucha that are also muted and understated and very beautiful. All of the pieces are named after goddesses or mythical women, such as the afore mentioned Aphrodite, or Pandora. I have always been intrigued by the stories surrounding these women so I thought I could bring this intrigue into my pieces, giving them a very ethereal feel!


 
Well it’s clear that it’s something you’ve always been interested in but S/S 2011 is visibly a move away from the almost fairy like creature designs of previous years. Is this just a new direction or a conscious inspired decision? 
This is definitely something I have always been interested in, I ‘m very much inspired by literature and stories, and this collection is another extension of this. I still, and always will, want my work to have an air of intrigue and other worldliness about it. I think fashion should be fun, and a way to express our personalities, thoughts and feelings, and it is brilliant I get to do this with each new collection as I am always inspired by different things. I am working on my A/W 2011 collection at present, and am busy looking into the Victorian era, an amazing and intriguing time for innovation in design and literature!

Are earrings a new foray for you? I don’t remember seeing them before… 
I hadn’t made earrings before no, but because the work for the S/S 2011 collection was so small and delicate I thought it would be lovely to make crocheted earrings made from a single bluebell or sycamore seed! They are a favourite part of my collection actually, and I wear mine a lot!

So would I – they’re stunning. Which of the key S/S 2011 trends do you think that your pieces fit best with and why?
I love the trend for ‘lady-like’ fashions, which hark back to the 1940′s for that ultra feminine look! Therefore I like the SS 2011 trends such as pastel colours, along with soft, light fabrics such as silk and lace that will work wonderfully alongside my pieces.

And where are you expecting to go from here? Obviously the home line is next but is this testing the water before you plan to release a home collection every season? 
Yes I will still produce a fashion & accessories collection each season, but along side this I hope that the homeware line will continue to expand…

It’s a very exciting prospect if you do. Who are your favourite designers this S/S 2011 and what trends will you mostly be wearing? 
My favourite, as always, is Erdem for his innovative S/S 2011 collection. He is able to make beautiful, feminine clothes that have a very modern feel to them and I especially love this season’s lace work! Also I saw the Kenzo show and just fell in love with the beautiful silks and knits which had a big Japanese influence and was so inspiring for my work. Another absolute favourite is Rodarte and their latest collection is stunning but of course these pieces will all be mixed with looks from the great British high street stores; some I’ve been loving recently are Gap and Anthropologie for their creative knits and beautiful use of fabrics. 

Well I am most definitetly excited to see the finished products. We’ll let Gemma get back to showing her S/S 2011 collection and the new home line but it’s lovely to know that the designer is still sticking to her roots. I can’t wait to see what the future brings for this innovative creative force. Bring on the crochet lampshades I say!

Read our original interview with Gemma here.

Written by Jemma Crow on Wednesday April 20th, 2011 5:07 pm

Categories ,Aphrodite, ,crochet, ,Erdem, ,estethica, ,Gemma Marissa, ,Gemma Smith, ,Homeware, ,Jemma Crow, ,jewellery, ,London Fashion Week, ,Neurotica, ,Pre-Raphaelites, ,Rodarte

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