Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Menswear Knitwear.

Hannah Taylor by Karolina Burdon
Hannah Taylor by Karolina Burdon.

I had to sit in the photographer’s pit – legs akimbo – to view the RCA graduate fashion show on Thursday 2nd June 2011… apparently there are no allocated seats. Hurumph, buy more about how often have we covered RCA shows on this website? On the bright side it meant that I had a fabulous view of the models as they walked towards me down the catwalk. Menswear fine tailoring and knitwear was particularly strong at this year’s show. Here’s introducing two fabulous knitwear designers to watch:

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Cherie Newing photography by Amelia Gregory
Cherie Newing. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cherie Newing by Emma Durnell
Cherie Newing by Emma Durnell.

Cherie Newing showed brightly coloured repeat pattern jumpers that touched the ankle. Intarsia knit jumpers and garish printed tracksuits featured stop signs and abstract shapes.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Taylor photography by Amelia Gregory
Hannah Taylor‘s collection featured a whole host of influences, erectile from the Green Man to bank robbers, this web via the jungle: both urban and tropical. It was a super fun collection of cable knit shagpile wonder from someone not afraid to experiment with colour and shape.

The RCA is of course a fabled institution that has endowed the world with many fabulously well trained creatives, so I fail to understand why so many RCA graduates leave the college with zero web presence. Hannah Taylor, however, is one of the few who has multiple websites where you can catch up with her, including a website, a blog and a twitter feed. Hurrah!

Categories ,Brights, ,Cable knit, ,Emma Durnell, ,Graduate Fashion Show, ,Green Man, ,Hannah Taylor, ,Hanzipan, ,Intarsia, ,jungle, ,Karolina Burdon, ,knitwear, ,menswear, ,Patterns, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,urban

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Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Menswear.

RCA Graduate Show 2011 Calum Harvey by Sam Parr
Calum Harvey by Sam Parr.

Fine tailoring appears to be an RCA speciality, find and several students had collaborated with high end Italian brand Brioni to produce a series of gorgeous tailored coats in shades of fawn, here dust, greyhound and sharp reds.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni photography by Amelia Gregory
RCA Brioni collaboration. Coat by Alexander Lamb. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Peter Bailey photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Peter Bailey.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Rebecca Neary photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Rebecca Neary.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Zac Marshall photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Zac Marshall.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Benedicte Holmboe photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Benedicte Holmboe.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni Zac Marshall photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Alex Mullins.

Over-sized round shoulders and trench coat styling was the order of the day, all worn with dark shades. Loved it all. Especially the ones above.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Aleksandra Domanevskaya photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Aleksandra Domanevskaya photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Aleksandra Domanevskaya photography by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Domanevskaya opted for a colourful collection based around stripey woven shantung silk in peach and caramel shades, also worn with moody sunglasses.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia Gregory
Sol Ahn created a sports casual collection, with inspiration taken from baseball jackets, faded denim, school boy shorts and traditional duffel coats. I liked the way that big waist rope ties became integral features of the look.
.
RCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia Gregory
Calum Harvey‘s collection was a clear standout amongst a sea of great talent. Riffing on traditional shapes and fabrics he showed high belted tweed suits and long boxy coats in peachy shades, accessorised with wide shaggy collars and jaunty hats. I particularly liked the wide trousered grey tweed suit. Very stylish indeed. Check out Calum Harvey’s website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia Gregory
I wasn’t so keen on Josefine Jarzombek‘s collection, mainly because she did the fur sponsorship thing, but also because those orange leather gloves with the maroon silk shirt were a wee bit scary.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia Gregory
Bennet Loveday produced some wonderful print effects on the inside of long cardigan and kagoul-like lightweight coats. Loved the slouchy shapes and tie-waist detailing (again).

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery photo amelia gregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery photo amelia gregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery photo amelia gregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel MemberyRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery
Samuel Membery‘s collection combined tailoring with casual wear with varied success. I liked the marled grey knitwear. Catch him on his blog and website.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia Gregory
Emily-Jane Murrays obsession with sandy coloured suede or suede type materials paid off in a very dapper collection. She has a website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Yejon Park photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Yejon Park photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Yejon Park photography by Amelia Gregory
Yejon Park launched his collection with an amazing tailored and zippered striped jacket, which was followed by some deconstructed tailoring and a fun bi-coloured jumpsuit.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia Gregory
Stefan Orschel-Read has already been on my radar for some time as he is represented by Felicities PR and he’s also an old pro when it comes to catwalk shows. He showed an immaculately cut collection of sharp suits with intriguing detailing such as knitted shoulder cutouts and unusual collars. I loved the grey marl shorts suit.

Fah Chakshuvej by Sandra Contreras
Fah Chakshuvej by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia Gregory
Fah Chakshuvej closed the menswear selection with a regal looking collection that included metallics, heavy embossing and laser cut detailing. High collars and horns completed the look. His website is FahChak.com and he has a twitter feed too.

Don’t forget to check out some excellent menswear knitwear design here too.

Categories ,2011, ,Aleksandra Domanevskaya, ,Alex Mullins, ,Alexander Lamb, ,Benedicte Holmboe, ,Bennet Loveday, ,Brioni, ,Calum Harvey, ,Coats, ,Embossing, ,Emily-Jane Murray, ,Fah Chak, ,Fah Chakshuvej, ,Felicities PR, ,Fur, ,Graduate Fashion Show, ,Italian, ,Josefine Jarzombek, ,menswear, ,metallics, ,Peter Bailey, ,rca, ,Rebecca Neary, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam Parr, ,Samuel Membery, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Sol Ahn, ,Stefan Orschel-Read, ,tailoring, ,traditional, ,Tweed, ,Yejon Park, ,Zac Marshall

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Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear Accessories.

Anna Schwamborn by Lorna Scobie
Anna Schwamborn by Lorna Scobie.

A couple of the collections on the catwalk at the RCA graduate show focused on accessories, medications namely millinery and bags.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Alexandra Gold photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Alexandra Gold photography by Amelia Gregory
Alexandra Gold opted to make the most of that pesky fur sponsorship, creating a series of oversized baseball caps, some of which were adorned with fur. Which just leaves me with the overwhelming question: WHY?

Paul Stafford by Lorna Scobie
Paul Stafford by Lorna Scobie.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia Gregory

Paul Stafford did something far more interesting with oversized brims that loomed over the eyes. Some appeared to be part of a garment, fabric draped over the top of the hat then flowing down the body and belted in at the waist. Totally unwearable on an every day basis but nonetheless beautiful.

Anna Shwamborn by Sandra ContrerasAnna Shwamborn by Sandra Contreras
Anna Shwamborn by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia Gregory
Anna Schwamborn presented an unusual bag collection that included some interesting tooled leather and ruffled collars and hand cuffs. Horned straps held capacious bags across the body. She has a website!

All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexandra Gold, ,Anna Schwamborn, ,Bags, ,Fur, ,Graduate fashion shows, ,hats, ,horns, ,Lorna Scobie, ,millinery, ,Paul Stafford, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear Knitwear.

RCA - Hannah Buswell by Kristina Vasiljeva
Hannah Buswell by Kristina Vasiljeva.

RCA knitwear design is out of this world. Naturally I was particularly keen on the really bright bold oversized collections, nurse but there were plenty of more tightly tailored and subtle garments too. Here’s who to look out for:

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hannah Buswell photography by Amelia Gregory
Hannah Buswell created a slouchy striped collection in hot pinks, viagra 40mg oranges and yellows with the occasional slash of lime green or blue. Print (a collaboration with textiles designer Amy Ellis) was mixed with knitwear in variegated block shapes, for sale then embellished with large Swarovski crystals, all styled to perfection with knee high sheer striped socks. Find Hannah Buswell on her website, blog and twitter feed.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Ruth Green photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Ruth Green photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Ruth Green photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Ruth Green photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Ruth Green photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Ruth Green photography by Amelia Gregory
Ruth Green was another fan of the popular boxy shoulder shape, and also of a hot orange and red colour palette in rectangular forms. Cowl necks and asymmetrical shapes completed the look. Take a look at Ruth Green’s website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Maria Kamper photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Maria Kamper photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Maria Kamper photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Maria Kamper photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Maria Kamper photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Maria Kamper photography by Amelia Gregory
Maria Kamper chose an elegant approach, with close fitting dresses in subtle creams and black accompanied by draped trains.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Victoria Hill photography by Amelia Gregory
As did Victoria Hill, who draped excess fabrics off the shoulder and bosom of belted full length dresses in fine gauge knit to create a very commercial and highly wearable collection. There’s not much on it but you can find her website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Kate Pritchard photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Kate Pritchard photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Kate Pritchard photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Kate Pritchard photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Kate Pritchard photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Kate Pritchard photography by Amelia Gregory
Kate Pritchard pursued draping in a more bunched up fashion in a steely coloured collection with more than a slight nod to grunge.

RCA Graduate Show 2011 Helen Taylor by Sam Parr
Helen Turner by Sam Parr.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Helen Turner photography by Amelia Gregory
I adored Helen Turner‘s clever collection which used bunched layers of yarn threaded through the garments to create a unique silhouette in shades of caramel, searing orange and petrol blue.

RCA graduate fashion 2011- photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011- photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie MarciasiniRCA graduate fashion 2011- photography by Amelia Gregory
Unfortunately I can’t identify who are responsible for this lovely oversize bobbly aran knit and shaggy mohair cardigan, but loved these also. NEWSFLASH! Thankyou Hannah for telling me that the first two images feature Victoria Hill for Esprit, and the last two are Amelie Marciasini for Esprit.

Categories ,Amelie Marciasini, ,Amy Ellis, ,Block, ,Brights, ,Esprit, ,Hannah Buswell, ,Helen Turner, ,Kate Pritchard, ,knitwear, ,Maria Kamper, ,Mohair, ,Orange, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Ruth Green, ,Sam Parr, ,Swarovski, ,Victoria Hill, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear.

Philipp Schueller by Casey Otremba
Philipp Schueller by Casey Otremba.

It’s time to meet the rest of the RCA graduating womenswear designers… so much talent amongst this lot, clinic but who will the be the ones who make it? Your guess is as good as mine.

RCA - Hao Feng Li by Kristina Vasiljeva
Hao Feng Li by Kristina Vasiljeva.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia Gregory
Hao Feng Li opted to explore the furthest boundaries of pleats, thumb cascading out of dresses, visit this site exploding out of arms and swirling around legs.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Sayaka Kamakura photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sayaka Kamakura photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sayaka Kamakura photography by Amelia Gregory
Shapes for Sayaka Kamakura‘s collection were clean and simple, asymmetric sculpturing sweeping into shrouded shapes in luminous orange. Find Sayaka Kamakura online here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia Gregory
Amelie Marciasini did the fur thing, this time in a riot of over-dyed fluorescent colours. Which once again begs the question, why? Surely fake does the job just as well, especially in a collection that pushed the boundaries of good taste. Just because Russian oligarchs have a lot of money does not make it a good idea to pander to their sense of style…

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Katie Hildebrand photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Katie Hildebrand photography by Amelia Gregory
Katie Hildebrand collaborated with textiles designers Amelia Mullins and Andrew Kenny on a sophisticated collection that featured sheer wrap tops in shimmering greens or encrusted with tumbling beads. She has the basics of a web presence – find her here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Nicola Morgan photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Nicola Morgan photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Nicola Morgan photography by Amelia Gregory
Nicola Morgan produced a very interesting collection focused on svelte tailoring techniques and integral beaded shaping. Nicola Morgan has the beginnings of a nice website where you can see previous collections.

Abbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras beigeAbbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras blackAbbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras red
Abbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia Gregory
Abnit Nijjar explored the layering of fabrics, sometimes in different block shades and with protruding patterns of overlaid perspex.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia Gregory
I really liked Saskia Schijen‘s relaxed approach: sheer tops worn with wide legged trousers and big belts, oversized cardigans floating on top.

April Schmitz by Karolina Burdon
April Schmitz by Karolina Burdon.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia Gregory
April Schmitz used leather to create knotted fringing that swooshed from shoulders and dangled from waists in deep jewel colours.

RCA_Philipp_Schueller_by_Katie_Woodger
Philipp Schueller by Katie Woodger.

Philipp Schueller Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman
Philipp Schueller by Sarah Harman.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia Gregory
Philipp Schueller apparently took inspiration from the psychedelic 60s and the rave-tastic 80s to produce his phosphorescent collection of plastic, sheer, fake fur, ruffled, over the top, eye catching garments… fit for the most extravert of songstrels.

RCA_Sarah_Seaton_Burridge_by_Katie_Woodger
Sarah Seaton-Burridge by Katie Woodger.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia Gregory
Sarah Seaton-Burridge also used fringing alongside laser cut layers and monochrome prints evocative of wild animal pelts.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Smit photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Smit photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Smit photography by Amelia Gregory
Anna Smit produced a series of round shouldered coats and dresses with an intriguing print that merged contrasting colours in the manner of an airbrush. This was a seriously beautiful and original collection. Visit Anna Smit on her website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia Gregory
Last but very much not least Itziar Vaquer showed an astonishing collection of pearlised plastic slouch shoulder capes and dresses. It shouldn’t have worked but it did, with bells on.

Like I said, your guess is as good as mine…

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Abnit Nijjar, ,Amelia Mullins, ,Amelie Marciasini, ,Andrew Kenny, ,April Schmitz, ,Casey Otremba, ,Hao Feng Li, ,Itziar Vaquer, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Katie Hildebrand, ,Katie Woodger, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Nicola Morgan, ,Oligarch, ,Philipp Schueller, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Sarah Harman, ,Sarah Seaton-Burridge, ,Saskia Schijen, ,Sayaka Kamakura

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Amelia’s Magazine | Tabernacle Twins: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

Tabernacle Twins was a new brand to me, but having visited the website my interest was piqued. The label is described as an exploration of fashion, textiles and illustration by designer Vibe Lundemark, a graduate of the RCA now relocated home to Denmark.

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees.

The show began with the appearance of the ‘Tabernacle Twins‘ who, as Vibe Lundemark‘s creative muses, take fictional journeys through surreal landscapes. This season the scene was set for a Cobra Casablanca, with our handouts describing a desert quest to search for a magic cobra, meeting fortune tellers, jesters and street magicians along the way. These ideas were translated into colourful abstract illustrations that crept and curled across large panels of fabric on dresses and blowsy shirts. Vibe Lundemark used a bold colour palette of lilac, purple, peach and ochre which was lightened by plentiful white across this relaxed collection. Girls with bright matte orange lips swung talismans from their wrists and paced the catwalk in patent white DMs with ankle socks. Alongside blouson shapes that were the perfect canvas for prints there were tailored details that included cowl necks, a crop top covered in pointy scales and a lacey matching shorts suit. A marbled chequerboard in deep purple on white created an arresting all over effect.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

It seemed odd that the girls chosen as twins were barely alike, and not even the same height, but that aside the twins were an appealing visual concept, who cropped up several times on the runway wearing key pieces. I liked the use of narrative to drive ideas behind the collection and look forward to seeing more from the Tabernacle Twins on future Fashion Scout runways.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,catwalk, ,Cobra Casablanca, ,copenhagen, ,Danish, ,Denmark, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,rca, ,review, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Tabernacle Twins, ,Vibe Lundemark

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Amelia’s Magazine | Xiao Li, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

We covered Xiao Li when she took part in the graduate showcase at Fashion Scout last season, and this year she returned to the catwalk with a stunning new collection as a winner of the much coveted Fashion Scout Merit Award. Chinese born Xiao Li is yet another example of the great education we provide in the arts, gaining an BA in womenswear from LCF and then an MA in knitwear from the RCA. She sent her clothing down the catwalk to one of my current favourite tunes: a cover of Daft Punk’s Get Lucky by Daughter. It was the perfect accompaniment to her collection, sweet as sugar but totally fresh and modern.

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Girls wore a simple pink wash in their hair, minimal make up and clumpy platform sandals to accompany billowy mesh, latex and silicon separates covered in geometric 3D decorative details. There were gigantic puffy sleeves, feature pockets, frou frou pencil skirts, wide legged trousers, a cape and even a pair of dungarees.

Xiao Li by Amy Dover

Xiao Li by Amy Dover.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li’s strength is in her deft combination of unexpected material, technique and shape to create an extraordinary and often breathtaking silhouette. The predominantly baby blue and cream palette was offset by the use of intense royal blue, with the last outfit spectacularly fading into dark so that the integral LED lights glowed in an otherworldly manner.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amy Dover, ,Daft Punk, ,Daughter, ,Fashion Scout, ,Get Lucky, ,iceland, ,Katie Rose Johnston, ,LCF, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award, ,rca, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Xiao Li

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Trine Lindegaard

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Ones to Watch menswear once again took place during a very busy menswear Wednesday afternoon. There was as ever an eager crowd in attendance, page bar a few smart suited buyers sitting across from each other in the front row, who smirked at each other across the catwalk for most of the proceedings.

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Dennis Brix
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Dennis Brix.

Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by HoBoJoBo
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by HoBoJoBo.

First out was a colourful display from Danish born designer Trine Lindegaard. She received an MA in menswear from the RCA in 2010 and began selling on ASOS marketplace in early 2011 but this was Trine Lindegaard‘s first full collection with mentoring from Fashion Scout. It featured a playful range of garments in a scrumptious colour range of fruity maroon, lime yellow and navy. Heads were adorned in flapping material caps that seemed to emulate a cartoon like bowl haircut, and garments sported plenty of texture with appliqued crosses, layered fringing and subtle ribbon stripes. Whilst certainly at the more adventurous end of the menswear spectrum this collection should appeal to avante garde types who are happy to experiment with curious but appealing colour combinations. Garments included shirts, polo necks, baggy pants, relaxed shorts and boxy shouldered overcoats. Definitely One to Watch.

Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia GregoryOnes to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Categories ,ASOS, ,Casual, ,Danish, ,Dennis Brix, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,HoBoJoBo, ,Marketplace, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Trine Lindegaard

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ornella Iannuzzi: an interview with fine art jeweller and ‘Jewellery Oscar’ gold award winner

Ornella Iannuzzi Iris van Gelder
Ornella Iannuzzi by Iris van Gelder.

Ornella Iannuzzi is a fine art jeweller who has trained in both France and the UK. I discovered her unique and unusual designs at the latest edition of London Fashion Week, where she presented a beautiful and playful new collection titled Rock It! as part of the Rock Vault selection. Here she answers a few questions about her process and inspiration.

Ornella Iannuzzi Portrait
You have an Italian name but grew up in the French alps, can you describe a bit more about your childhood, upbringing and influences which have contributed to your style?
My dad is Italian and my mum French and I grew up in a small village in the French Alps surrounded by forests, lakes, and stunning landscapes that witness the geological processes which occurred with the formation of the mountains. So I have been totally immersed in Nature from when I was born. The little hood next to our house was my playground and I could spend hours hidden there, waiting for any wild animals to pop out, or just observing trees, plants and rocks. I loved to go minerals hunting too. I would cherish the crystals I found like a very precious treasure! By growing in such surroundings, I learnt to look at Nature differently, and it has had a significant impact on my work. I feel very closely linked to Nature and I believe people can see this through my jewellery.

Ornella Iannuzzi A l'Ere Glaciere
Ornella Iannuzzi Earrings A l'Ere Glaciaire
Why did you decide to attend the RCA after learning the technical aspects of jewellery making in France, and what did your various studies teach you?
I decided to come to the RCA to do a Master and explore my creativity as France is still a bit restricted in this area. The weight of the tradition is so powerful in France that it leaves very little space for thinking “out of the box”. UK is the right place for this. So I have the best of both eductational systems in the end : The technical skills and high quality craftsmanship from France and daring creativity and originality from UK!

Ornella Iannuzzi Earrings Cage Rock It ! 18KY
Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It ! cage pendant
How did you develop the idea for your caged opal pieces, showcased at London Fashion Week?
I have been working with opal spheres for few years now, including them in various collections, and when I came with my new collection based on the dodecahedron crystallisation, it occured to me that the sphere should be inside the dodecahedron, free to move, and the cage came to my mind consequently.

Ornella-Iannuzzi-Exceptionnelle-Emeraude-ring
Ornella Iannuzzi Cuff l'Exceptionnelle Emeraude
What are your favourite gemstones and metals to work with and why?
Opals for sure! I discovered the Ethiopian opals back in 2009 and it was LOVE at first sight! As mentioned, I have included them in all my collection since then and I even created a whole collection based on them in 2010: Lucy in Wonderland inspired by my trip to Ethiopia to source the rough stones. I have detailed my journey and the inspiration behind each pieces on my Facebook page, in the photo albums section here. And I also love emerald crystals. Then I love yellow and rose gold for their warm colours and they are such great metal to work with, although rose gold is a bit more challenging then yellow…

Ornella Iannuzzi Ring 2 crystals Rock It !
Who commissions your bespoke pieces?
Collectors, art amateurs, business men and women, and mostly ladies who like to stand out in the crowd and make a statement.

Ornella Iannuzzi Cufflinks Rock It!
Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It ! studs
What prompted the move from fine art jewellery into pret-a-porter ranges, and what have been the challenges in translating your luxe designs into everyday wearable pieces at a lower price point?
My Fine Art Jewellery is more special occasion wear and I sell them only direct. As I wanted to start exporting, I have launched my Prêt-à-Porter collections which came also because I wanted to create some jewellery for daily wear, and more affordable too. Adapting my style to a commercial range was a challenge because I am used to make bold and unique pieces, not production work. So I had to think differently when designing. I also had to change my business model in order to enter the trade market and this was a bit of a challenge too since it involved re-branding and review my strategies.

Ornella-Iannuzzi The Uprising ring
You recently won two Gold Awards at the ‘Jewellery Oscars’ – what piece attracted this accolade and how did you get chosen for the awards?
My latest Fine Art Jewellery ring The Uprising (above) – made in 18k rose gold, diamonds and pearls. I enter the piece to the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards and the judges made their decision according to the categories criterias.

Marvel at more of Ornella Iannuzzi‘s creations on her website here.

Categories ,Dodecahedron, ,french, ,Gold Award, ,Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards, ,interview, ,Iris van Gelder, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Oscars, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy in Wonderland, ,Ornella Iannuzzi, ,Pret-a-porter, ,rca, ,Rock It!, ,Rock Vault, ,Royal College of Art, ,The Uprising

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

I was blown away by Holly’s debut in A/W 2009 – a collection of designs influenced by my favourite movement, generic art deco. Mix that with jewel colours, rx luxurious materials and contemporary shapes, and I don’t see what there isn’t to love. When my ticket arrived, I didn’t care that it was standing, I was in that queue at 1.30pm, ready and waiting. I checked Twitter before the show, and saw that Marie Davies, the Junior Fashion Editor at Drapers had tweeted details from the show notes as being ‘dressed for Vegas but holidaying in Margate’, and that she was expecting ‘fruit machines and neon lights’. I thought that Holly’s previous collections had already channelled a little bit of Vegas ‘glamour’, but what would come of the British seaside resort combination?

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

When I got into the BFC Tent, I was determined to ensure that I got a good spot to take photos of Holly’s creations. I found myself at the end of the catwalk, and deliberated on where to stand – floor, or step, floor or step. The lady next to me, also holding a camera, smiled at me, and made way for me to stand next to her. I asked her if she had spotted who was on the front row (Hilary Alexander flying the Fulton flag in one of her printed dresses). She told me that she hadn’t noticed anyone, and that Holly was one of the few shows she attended, and solely because of her ‘pretty special’ jewellery. Suddenly, this lady’s name came to me, Julia Hutton-Squire, the editor of Adorn London, a jewellery-dedicated website that I read religiously. She was welcoming and friendly, and it was a pleasure to meet and enjoy the show with her.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 – All photography by Miranda Williams

In the darkness, the Aeroplane remix of the Cassius song The Sound of Violence began to play, a favourite of mine, so a very good start. To match this upbeat tempo, Holly opened her show with a signature bright canary yellow look. A pair of wide cut trousers, detailed with a black deco print, and a short sleeve checkerboard pattern top, in the same colours. And straight off, some jewellery! As the model walked, a huge pair of sea shell hoop earrings swung from her ears. Holly’s press release had said the show would take some influences from the sea, shell grottoes actually… were sea themed accessories going to be it? Mermaid-models having finished dressing in their eclectic outfits, to load themselves up with the spoils of the sea bed? Fantastic!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly’s Versace influences became clear over the next few looks – when I spotted a peek of zebra print in a clutch bag that a model wearing a retro style brown and orange printed playsuit carried with her. This animal print stood out, in the middle of the looks, and worked as the collection’s most Vegas-fabulous designs. The first was a zebra print bomber jacket, cropped enough to rise and show an enviable flat stomach, which was paired with a white mini skirt, printed with an art deco and zebra pattern. The second was a flowing, European-esque jumpsuit, teamed with those shell earrings again. In a later look, a zebra pattern strapless top was worn underneath a white patent leather mini skirt, which was embroidered with a beautiful red coral design. This strapless top, from my position, looked like silk, but I learned later that it was actually intarsia knit, and part of a collaboration with Caerlee Mills, a Scottish textile mill who produced a number of pieces for this collection. Looking back at the photos from the show, these pieces are now easy to spot, but it is only with close inspection that you can see they are knitted and not printed silk. I loved the combination of these woven materials with Holly’s usual printed silks.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

The exotic vibe carried on, with Holly presenting some of her signature body-con mini dresses and a couple of sexy swimwear looks. Holly also cited the work of American photographer Slim Aarons as an influence, who notably took photos of the social elite. It is his 1960’s pool-scene photos that reverberate in this collection. I was previously familiar with Aaron’s work, as one of my favourite jewellery designers, Merle O’Grady, was influenced by the same set of photos for her S/S 2011 collection. The photos are supremely kitsch and stylish, and I would recommend that you go and check them out. The bandeau swimwear was great, a nice addition for the range – although the white and black deco print bikini was worn by the most gorgeous model, and it was actually her I couldn’t keep my eyes off, rather than the bikini!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

On either side of the swimwear, were some fantastic mini dresses that were adorned with pop colour fringing, macramé beads and sequins. The sea theme continued through with shell, coral and wave prints popping over the dresses in blue and pink hues. This was definitely a show that said ‘Welcome to Summer‘. All Holly needed to top these off was a fantastic pair of shades – and there were Cutler and Gross to step in with some pretty special acetate sunnies to complete the look.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly loves a contrast, and we spanned a decade to the 1970’s with some silk wide leg trousers and a grand flowing maxi dress in sea flora prints. These were stark black, mixed with electric turquoise and would work as a glam evening choice. The continued narrative of prints, the sea, animal or natural, really helped bring this collection together. The illustrations of the coral, the seahorses, and the waves were kitsch, playing back to Slim Aaron’s photography. These looks also made the best of the Louboutin mules in patent black. It really is Holly’s choice of accessories that make her stand out for me – this run saw glossy totes, angular bags, in monochrome checks, studded cuffs, and of course the necklaces, which have become part of the Holly Fulton signature as much as the mini dresses.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
The show closed with a short mini shift, that came down the catwalk as a delicious offering of influences all at once – tribal zebra, delicate sea shells, and clashing colours, orange, black and white, finished off with dreamy pink tones. Add the pink sea shell earrings and patent peep toe shoes, and it was signature Holly Fulton.

Some critics may say that this collection didn’t see Holly push any boundaries, and show us something new, but for me it was a confident show, and she is building an aesthetic that her brand will no doubt grow steadily and successfully upon. Let’s give dues to a designer who can make the unlikely combinations of sequin, fringing and body con work with seashells, zebra print and Vegas influences. For me it was fantastic Fulton.

Categories ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Aaron Slims, ,accessories, ,Adorn London, ,Art Deco, ,bodycon, ,Caerlee Mills, ,cassius, ,Cutler and Gross, ,Drapers, ,Emmi Ojala, ,fashion, ,Geiko Louve, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Holly Fulton, ,jewellery, ,Joana Faria, ,knit, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louboutin, ,Megan Thomas, ,Merle O’Grady, ,Merle O’Grady, ,print, ,rca, ,S/S 2012, ,scotland, ,Slim Aarons, ,Swimwear, ,twitter, ,Vegas, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

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