Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman
Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

My last write up for this season features the new collection from the ever wonderful twins behind Tata Naka. This season they eschewed the cool light of the Portico Rooms (no longer used for LFW presentations) to show in the newly created Studio space on the lower levels of Somerset House. Given that this is a dark venue it was a wise decision to shoot with plenty of flash against a simple black backdrop, the girls rearranged on blacked out props, sometimes with parts of their body obscured. Given the complicated set designs of the past few seasons this was probably a relief to put together.

Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory.

This season the girls delved into a wealth of inspiration left behind by Sergei Diaghilev and his iconic Ballet Russes. The bold constructivist shapes that characterised his graphic costumes and set designs were made for these girls to expand on in their inimitable style. The collection was shown in staggered stages so that Tata Naka could shoot their look book, so I only had time to view one part. By a stroke of luck it may well have been my favourite, with geometric designs and lettering placed in great swipes of glorious colour across cream and black grounds on simple calf length strapless flapper dresses, a sleeveless playsuit and a twosie lounge suit with hexagon embellishments. For summer a simple 80s style tank swimsuit looked perfect worn with slicked back hair and heels.

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele
Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele.

Other parts of the collection (which you can view here) featured dotty net dresses encrusted with giant appliqué stars, jigsaw panels in sugary pastels, and pop art style placement prints on strapless prom dresses. After a mild diversion into new territory last season this felt like Tata Naka returning to their rightful groove: every outfit a beautiful (wearable) piece of art in its own right.

Categories ,Ballet Russes, ,Book Review, ,Daisy Steele, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2014, ,Sergei Diaghilev, ,Somerset House, ,Studio, ,Tata Naka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Orlebar Brown: London Collections: Men S/S 2015

Orlebar_ Brown_ SS15_Helen_Marudas
Orlebar Brown S/S 2015 by Helen Marudas

After the KTZ show on Monday I wandered down to Floral Street in Covent Garden to the Orlebar Brown store, where I found a rather excited crowd gathered in front of the shop’s façade. Four incredibly handsome guys with ripped bodies were struggling with a variety of dogs, and as I surveyed them I made a mental note to stop eating quite so many burgers.

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_032

All photography by Matt Bramford

Inside the store, more models showcased Orlebar Brown‘s S/S 2015 collection. Simple, bright shorts with metal fastenings were the mainstay, along with patterned shirts and basic, beach-ready footwear. ‘Under the sea’ was this year’s theme, translated with aquatic spiral and coral reef prints. I love the photographic printed pieces that the brand has become famous for, and I’ve added the Slim Aarons-esque t-shirt and shorts to my wishlist.

SS15-OrlebarBrown-0770-DP

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_003

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_004

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_007

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_012

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_014

Back outside, the topless models still struggled with dogs. I felt so sorry for the gent that had obviously pulled the short straw and had to struggle with a Great Dane the size of a Shetland pony. You wouldn’t catch David Gandy doing this. I stifled LOLs as the great beast dragged the model passionately in the opposite direction from the store with gusto, while dog trainers desperately tried to catch up with them. It was like a sexy version of a Chuckle Brothers‘ sketch. Of all the dog breeds, why you would hire a four-legged recipe for disaster is beyond me, but it was a memorable presentation to say the least.

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_020

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_026

MattBramford_LondonCollectionsMen_SS15_OrlebarBrown_028

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Categories ,beach, ,fashion, ,Helen Marudas, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Orlebar Brown, ,Presentation, ,Slim Aarons, ,SS15, ,Swimwear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Phannatiq: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Presentation Review

Phannatiq SS 2015 -photo by Amelia gregory

Phannatiq showcased their new street wear collection with a tribe of dancing girls and Parkour boys on the pavement outside the ME Hotel London. The brand is the brainchild of designer Anna Skodbo, who was brought up in sustainable living communities, thus inspiring her desire to make ethical clothing. Phannatiq features signature fractured prints in urban greys splashed across silky organic bamboo fabrics.

Phannatiq SS 2015 -photo by Amelia gregory
Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Anna Skodbo, ,ethical, ,Felicities PR, ,London Fashion Week, ,ME Hotel London, ,Parkour, ,Phannatiq, ,Presentation, ,sustainable

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Presentation Review: SIBLING


Sibling S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker

I had raced around the Fashion East installations in record time to ensure that I had the opportunity to have enough time to look around the Sibling presentation.


All photography by Matt Bramford

I loved the Sibling A/W 2012 collection so much – a whistle stop tour around East End boozers – that I was a little concerned that they couldn’t top it. Where do take it from there? To the fairground, physician of course! Entering the room they’d been assigned was a bit like a trip to the fairground itself: a dodgem car was positioned in one corner, drugs in which a mannequin had a TV for a head. It was all part of Sibling’s slightly mysterious world. Enormous illuminated letters spelling out S I B were casually leaning against another wall, and rollercoaster graphics adorned the walls.


Sibling S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson

As per usual, there wasn’t a single piece in this new offering that I wouldn’t buy instantly. Each piece evoked childhood memories of fairgrounds and all their kitsch connotations: delicious but dirty food, the rides that satisfy thrill-seekers’ pleasures and the boys you shouldn’t really fancy but who spin you on the waltzers so hard that you occasionally revisit that hot dog that you just ate.

Knitwear was on top form as usual, including cardigans with Argyll prints in edible sorbet colours and the show piece: a grey sweater with a wonderful embroidered pattern, cramming in as much fairground action as possible.

S/S brings an exciting t-shirt range, with LOVE and HATE logos, an I HEART HOT DOG motif, and various other fairground-themed designs. It was a little like fantasy shopping. I particularly like the Waltzer print on a pale blue t-shirt, should anybody wish to buy me a gift.

This season sees the trio collaborate with artist Yuko Kondo, who is responsible for the tattoo-like design on aforementioned sweater and the I HEART HOT DOG logo. Pastel-coloured leopard print sweaters are also a real winner. Playful LOVE and HATE t-shirts are sure to be everywhere come next summer, thanks to this wonderful collection. Last, but not least, I think the denim jacket with Kiss Me Quick emblem speaks for itself.


Sister by Sibling S/S 2012 by Matt Bramford

The weekend before saw the launch of womenswear line SISTER. I didn’t get much time to peruse this offering, such is the jam-packed weekend of London Fashion Week, but what I did see (a girl mounting a carousel horse) had the same fashion-as-fun ethos. Kondo’s emblems, sequins, foil prints and the dreamy leopard-print pattern in similar sorbet tones were the mainstay, proving that Sibling’s unique vision translates from menswear to womenswear with ease.

See highlights from the Sister presentation here:

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Argyll, ,Cozette McCreery, ,Dodgems, ,Fairgrounds, ,Hate, ,Hot dogs, ,Ice Cream, ,Joe Bates, ,Kiss Me Quick, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Newgen, ,Presentation, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,Rollercoaster, ,Sibling, ,Sid Bryan, ,Sister by Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,Sorbet, ,T-shirts, ,Waltzer, ,Womenswear, ,Yuko Knodo

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Presentation Review: SIBLING


Sibling S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker

I had raced around the Fashion East installations in record time to ensure that I had the opportunity to have enough time to look around the Sibling presentation.


All photography by Matt Bramford

I loved the Sibling A/W 2012 collection so much – a whistle stop tour around East End boozers – that I was a little concerned that they couldn’t top it. Where do take it from there? To the fairground, of course! Entering the room they’d been assigned was a bit like a trip to the fairground itself: a dodgem car was positioned in one corner, in which a mannequin had a TV for a head. It was all part of Sibling’s slightly mysterious world. Enormous illuminated letters spelling out S I B were casually leaning against another wall, and rollercoaster graphics adorned the walls.


Sibling S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson

As per usual, there wasn’t a single piece in this new offering that I wouldn’t buy instantly. Each piece evoked childhood memories of fairgrounds and all their kitsch connotations: delicious but dirty food, the rides that satisfy thrill-seekers’ pleasures and the boys you shouldn’t really fancy but who spin you on the waltzers so hard that you occasionally revisit that hot dog that you just ate.

Knitwear was on top form as usual, including cardigans with Argyll prints in edible sorbet colours and the show piece: a grey sweater with a wonderful embroidered pattern, cramming in as much fairground action as possible.

S/S brings an exciting t-shirt range, with LOVE and HATE logos, an I HEART HOT DOG motif, and various other fairground-themed designs. It was a little like fantasy shopping. I particularly like the Waltzer print on a pale blue t-shirt, should anybody wish to buy me a gift.

This season sees the trio collaborate with artist Yuko Kondo, who is responsible for the tattoo-like design on aforementioned sweater and the I HEART HOT DOG logo. Pastel-coloured leopard print sweaters are also a real winner. Playful LOVE and HATE t-shirts are sure to be everywhere come next summer, thanks to this wonderful collection. Last, but not least, I think the denim jacket with Kiss Me Quick emblem speaks for itself.


Sister by Sibling S/S 2012 by Matt Bramford

The weekend before saw the launch of womenswear line SISTER. I didn’t get much time to peruse this offering, such is the jam-packed weekend of London Fashion Week, but what I did see (a girl mounting a carousel horse) had the same fashion-as-fun ethos. Kondo’s emblems, sequins, foil prints and the dreamy leopard-print pattern in similar sorbet tones were the mainstay, proving that Sibling’s unique vision translates from menswear to womenswear with ease.

See highlights from the Sister presentation here:

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Argyll, ,Cozette McCreery, ,Dodgems, ,Fairgrounds, ,Hate, ,Hot dogs, ,Ice Cream, ,Joe Bates, ,Kiss Me Quick, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Newgen, ,Presentation, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,Rollercoaster, ,Sibling, ,Sid Bryan, ,Sister by Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,Sorbet, ,T-shirts, ,Waltzer, ,Womenswear, ,Yuko Knodo

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Presentation Review: U.Mi-1


U.Mi-1 S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

Walking through the hallowed halls of the Freemasons’ building, salve I couldn’t help but think I was actually appearing in an episode of BBC One’s Spooks. Heals clip-clopped on marble flooring, cialis 40mg echoing around the grandiose interior, help darkened wood, glass cabinets filled with associated paraphernalia. I couldn’t shake the feeling I was actually there to meet with the Home Secretary; that Harry Pearce was lingering somewhere in the shadows. He wasn’t, of course, he’s fictional; and I was dressed *way* too good to be doing such silly business as saving the world from terrorists.

Instead, for this presentation by menswear label U.Mi-1, the room we were in was filled not with MI5 Suits, but with boys wearing oversized-blazers, and girls who all seemed to have more-hair-than-clothes; all clutching man-bags or purses, cameras, notepads and complimentary herb-infused juice drinks. I’ve no idea why they were ‘herb-infused’. One assumes it was to give the idea that they were laced with vodka. It worked.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Upstairs, on the first floor, in the room we had converged in, was a presentation that felt more like a piece of theatre than it did a fashion show. Divided into two rooms, the first was lit only by the light from a projector on the wall; while the over-zealous pouring of the aforementioned juice drinks gave a heavy, over-burdened incense-like smell to the proceedings.


U-Mi.1 S/S 2012 by Rukmunal Hakim

The projector reel showed images two models at one time against a white wall. Standing side by side, the two boys would interact, not so much with each other but with their clothes: laughing as they pulled at button holes, braces, hemlines and creases, before changing to two new boys in two new outfits.

In the second, brighter room, the same models were present, only this time in the flesh and frozen: scattered across the back of the room to create a tableau of gorgeous fellas. This only heightened the theatricality of the event, thanks in part to the fact that the growing crowd (us included) were standing around the models as if there were a barrier between us and them: them on a stage, us an audience.

It wasn’t until, as we pulled out our camera, easily the biggest one there (size matters), that some man with a clipboard informed us we could get closer and the rigidness of the event shifted into something more real: journalists writing notes, models moving from one statuesque pose to another. And we lead the way, pioneers that we are. We twice contemplating striking a frozen pose in the centre of the room, hoping that revellers of the collection might confuse us for an eighth model.

The collection on offer was mostly made up of muted colours and pastel shades, simple lines and classic cuts. At one point I saw a girl jot down The Great Gatsby as a footnote, but she’d obviously never read F. Scott Fitzgerald‘s classic: these boys weren’t Jay Gatsby, they were the boys in Brideshead, dipped in sepia tones and burnt sienna, like something from a Sofia Coppola movie. Seams had been piped in contrasting colours, discreet checks were teamed with pale pastels and styled with thick-rimmed glasses and brown leather loafers.

Outside, still caught up in the spring-like warmth of the collection, my PA duties to Matt Bramford had drawn to a close. I could’ve lingered all day, only he then actually started calling me Alex Forrest (Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction) and I had to bid adieu to Fashion Week for another year; all Brideshead illusions truly shattered.

Categories ,Alex Forest, ,Brideshead Revisited, ,checks, ,F. Scott Fitzgerald, ,Fatal Attraction, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Glenn Close, ,Gozi, ,Harry Pearce, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,MenswearSS12, ,MI5, ,Piping, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Rukmunal Hakim, ,S/S 2012, ,Sofia Coppola, ,Spooks, ,Suits, ,tailoring, ,The Great Gatsby, ,U.Mi-1, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Craig Lawrence

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 by Meagan Morrison

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 by Meagan Morrison

I’m quite partial to a knitted design – one of my favourite designers is Mark Fast, order whose spun creations I yearn for, and I loved the A/W 2010 work of graduate student Phoebe Thirlwall. I’m also very fond of Craig Lawrence, whose work I have followed and celebrated, and so I was eagerly anticipating his intimate salon show at The Portico Rooms at Somerset House, the perfect surrounding for the debut of his S/S 2012 collection. An excitement it appeared that was shared by everyone else attending London Fashion Week… The queue for the presentation wound round the marble staircase of Somerset House, and snaked along the grand hall – a bit of a change from what Matt Bramford had seen the previous year.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 – All photography courtesy of Ella Dror PR

Craig Lawrence is a London Fashion Week must-see. For six seasons, before he graduated from Central Saint Martins and set up his own label, Craig produced knitwear for the outlandish designer Gareth Pugh. He showed his debut collection for A/W 2009, which won him The British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN sponsorship. The Council’s faith and support continues, as this season sees Craig celebrating his sixth season under the sponsorship. As I was finally ushered into the room and asked to find myself a square inch of space, I spotted blogger Susie Bubble on the front row. I realised what a hot ticket this show was, and thought that maybe next year’s space should be rethought, regardless of the atmospheric surroundings. By the time the doors were closed, every seat in the room had been taken, but in this close setting, I couldn’t have asked for a better view of the clothes.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 - All photography courtesy of Ella Dror PR

Craig’s primary inspiration for the collection was the seaside photo sets of British documentary photographer Martin Parr. Parr is known for projects that explore modern life in England, and for his sense of humour that runs through his photos. He claims that the seaside is one of the most fascinating places for people watching, where we lose our inhibitions and where true personalities are unveiled. As the first looks of Craig’s collection were presented, the influence of the British seaside towns was clear, but rather from the depths of the sea, instead of the beach and its holiday makers. The models were enchanting sea creatures. Adorned in the metallic threads of a fisherman’s net or wrapped seaweed, in the colours of the ocean and washed up treasures and sun baked sand, with headpieces like sea coral reefs. Craig presented a rich and textured collection of knitwear in a palette of pastel and muted hues, run with metallic details.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012

Last season’s moody palette of dark metallic blues, purples and black was replaced with a lighter, gentler combination of creams, pale mint greens and pinks. As the models swayed down the short catwalk they glistened with every step. Craig Lawrence collaborated with Swarovski Elements for this collection which gave a sparkle of luxury to his intricately knitted designs. Swarovski Pale Crystal yarns and fibres had been woven into individual pieces, which caught the bright lights of The Portico Rooms as the models revolved to face each wall of the room. The Swarovski crystals were also sewn in to other designs as pure embellishment.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

It was apparently the idea of the Essex phenomenon ‘vajazzling’ that inspired Lawrence’s use of Swarovski crystal fibres for this season, but with this influence aside, it was a sophisticated and refined concept that pushed the collection to another level. Craig’s material of choice, unique Kyototex metallic yarns, keeping to the sea-theme in cream and shell colours, were woven into the designs, adding to the luxuriance and feminine appeal of each look.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 - All photography courtesy of Ella Dror PR

Layering was an important detail across the whole collection. The dresses and skirts were flowing, with knitted bralets, metallic leggings and tights worn underneath. There was also a mix of body-con wrap pieces, worn over designs such as a flowing lace-hole knitted maxi skirt, or tank top dress, and super wearable raglan-sleeved tops with elasticated vests which would add a perfect metallic shimmer for day or night. The Swarovski crystal embellishments added texture, and luxuriance. The draped designs left the body effortlessly, as the narrator explained how the pieces were knitted without elastic to create a looser, relaxed fit.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 - All photography courtesy of Ella Dror PR

One of the best things about a salon show is the chance to gain a greater understanding of the make up of the collection. For each of the 18 looks, a very well spoken narrator took the audience through the individual components, and explained the techniques undertaken. This replaced the usual upbeat modern song, and was a welcome point of difference. Through this, the salon show to me felt like a proper couture show, harking back to old fashion houses and buying appointments. There was a real sense of charm and nostalgia to this which I know is also an influence that Craig cites from his childhood in the countryside town of Ipswich.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012

It was great – the audience was able to learn so much from the commentary. The narrator gave away details of craftsmanship that made you study Craig’s work as it came out one by one. We learnt that many of the pieces were created from a single thread to maintain the weightlessness. Indeed some of the designs looked like finely spun gold fisherman’s nets, and the models were beautiful sea creatures that had been caught in the webbing. The narration really helped to emphasise the level of work that had gone into creating this collection.

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Craig Lawrence S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

This was not the only aspect of the salon show that ensured it achieved a polished finish – the show was also styled by Dazed and Confused’s fashion editor Kate Shillingford, who has been a strong support of Craig’s career from the start, and oversees the creative direction of the label. Her expertise was really evident – no hanging yarn was out of place, the handmade shoes from Natacha Marro shoes fitted with the otherworldly air, and the delicate woven headpieces made by Steven Doherty were a superior finish acting as sparkling coral reefs, encased around the models heads.

I was mesmerized by Craig Lawrence’s embellished and shimmering sea-bed inspired offering. The pastel tones, metallic yarns and crystal details were subtle, serene and luxuriant. It was a fantastic collection that fully demonstrated his ability for producing knitwear that is challenging yet wearable, and significantly as a young designer, constantly pushing forward.

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Craig Lawrence, ,Crystals, ,Ella Dror PR, ,fashion, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Katie Shillingford, ,knitting, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,Mark Fast, ,Martin Parr, ,Matt Bramford, ,Meagan Morrison, ,Megan Thomas, ,Metallic, ,Miranda Williams, ,Newgen, ,Phoebe Thirlwall, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2012, ,Salon Show, ,Somerset House, ,Swarovski, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Tata Naka

Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day
Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day.

Turning up to the Tata Naka presentation I had very little idea of what to expect but I had been most intrigued by their invitation, try a dance card with mini pencil attached as if to list dances. I have always loved Tata Naka; their combination of colourful painted print designs and loose fitting but cleverly cut shapes is right up my street.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The presentation was held in the Portico Rooms and as I walked in I felt as though I’d chanced upon a private studio session. Huge lights, photographer, cure stylist. It took me right back to the days when I spent a lot of time loitering around on fashion shoots for magazines such as The Face and I-D. And, it turns out that this was the entire intention. By combining their time in Somerset House with the creation of look book images, Tata Naka had very cleverly made the most of their time and money as well as opening up the creative process for all to see. Absolutely genius.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The shoot had been going for some hours when I arrived, and the team were onto the last look of the day – seven girls clad in fabulously colourful drop waist, oversized and kaftan shaped tropical dresses. For S/S 2012 Tata Naka were inspired by 1950s east coast chic, combined with flowery resort glamour… and these last garments screamed Aloha.

Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey
Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey.

The models stood in formation on chairs against a black background with rose petals scattered across the floor, in an approximation of a famous Pina Bausch dance sequence. The much loved choreographer’s work had inspired the whole shoot, hence the dance card invitations.

Tata Naka Fashion Illustration By Vicky Newman
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Vicky Newman.

Attendees were served fresh lemonade in Tata Naka themed bottles decorated with carnations as we circulated around the shoot. We were able to take our own photos and see the others on a computer screen as the team scrutinised the latest official shots.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Twin sisters Tamara and Natasha Surguladze graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2000, and their label, Tata Naka, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary recently. The brand, which encompasses diffusion lines Stolen Memories and Tata Naka Shrunk for children, is celebrated worldwide yet curiously they have no stockists in the UK. It seems utterly bizarre to me that these talented designers are not more widely feted in the country where they trained and have chosen to make their home. Let’s hope that changes soon.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Aloha, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Clare Twomey, ,dance, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Look Book, ,Pina Bausch, ,Portico Rooms, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2012, ,Shoot, ,Somerset House, ,Stolen Memories, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka, ,Tata Naka Shrunk, ,Twins, ,Vicky Newman, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Tata Naka

Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day
Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day.

Turning up to the Tata Naka presentation I had very little idea of what to expect but I had been most intrigued by their invitation, a dance card with mini pencil attached as if to list dances. I have always loved Tata Naka; their combination of colourful painted print designs and loose fitting but cleverly cut shapes is right up my street.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The presentation was held in the Portico Rooms and as I walked in I felt as though I’d chanced upon a private studio session. Huge lights, photographer, stylist. It took me right back to the days when I spent a lot of time loitering around on fashion shoots for magazines such as The Face and I-D. And, it turns out that this was the entire intention. By combining their time in Somerset House with the creation of look book images, Tata Naka had very cleverly made the most of their time and money as well as opening up the creative process for all to see. Absolutely genius.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The shoot had been going for some hours when I arrived, and the team were onto the last look of the day – seven girls clad in fabulously colourful drop waist, oversized and kaftan shaped tropical dresses. For S/S 2012 Tata Naka were inspired by 1950s east coast chic, combined with flowery resort glamour… and these last garments screamed Aloha.

Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey
Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey.

The models stood in formation on chairs against a black background with rose petals scattered across the floor, in an approximation of a famous Pina Bausch dance sequence. The much loved choreographer’s work had inspired the whole shoot, hence the dance card invitations.

Tata Naka Fashion Illustration By Vicky Newman
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Vicky Newman.

Attendees were served fresh lemonade in Tata Naka themed bottles decorated with carnations as we circulated around the shoot. We were able to take our own photos and see the others on a computer screen as the team scrutinised the latest official shots.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Twin sisters Tamara and Natasha Surguladze graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2000, and their label, Tata Naka, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary recently. The brand, which encompasses diffusion lines Stolen Memories and Tata Naka Shrunk for children, is celebrated worldwide yet curiously they have no stockists in the UK. It seems utterly bizarre to me that these talented designers are not more widely feted in the country where they trained and have chosen to make their home. Let’s hope that changes soon.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Aloha, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Clare Twomey, ,dance, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Look Book, ,Pina Bausch, ,Portico Rooms, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2012, ,Shoot, ,Somerset House, ,Stolen Memories, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka, ,Tata Naka Shrunk, ,Twins, ,Vicky Newman, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Teatum Jones


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

On Friday afternoon I took myself up the Strand to the RSA‘s grand London venue, viagra 60mg a little past the Savoy. It’s a bloody nightmare trying to get up the Strand these days. You’re either barging tourists out of the way with your London Fashion Week tote bag or stopping to give them directions. I hate that Londoners have such a mean reputation when it comes to tourists so I always smile and say ‘yes, the Ly-SEE-um is just that way, m’love’ and save my expletives until they’re out of earshot.


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Emma Block

I was heading for a presentation by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones – collectively Teatum Jones, who promise ‘effortless chic‘ and ‘contemporary elegance.‘ Well, they certainly served up heaps of this on Friday. I first heard about them six months ago when they were listed on the BFC’s emerging talent roster, so it was exciting to finally get the chance to check out their wares in person.

It’s so easy to get a presentation wrong. This miserable age of austerity that we’re currently living in has forced many designers to abandon the catwalk in favour of a static set-up, but you never really know what you’re going to get. Sometimes it’s a film screening, sometimes one model stooped and forlorn in a corner while people ‘yah, yah‘ around him or her. This was a good presentation, thankfully; an amazing one, in fact. I knew it was going to be good when a gentleman who wouldn’t look out of place on a runway thrust me a vodka martini. At last: a big ol’ drink.

The RSA‘s venue is quite something. Its Georgian interior couldn’t have been a better match for this stunning collection of exquisite clothes. The room where the presentation was held had huge ceilings, enormous fireplaces and period features; the pastel colours of the walls appearing as if they had been painted especially for the occasion. A mock sort of sitting room-like set had been constructed in the centre, and people filed around this voyeuristic set-up in practical silence. A soundtrack of the Flamingos’ I Only Have Eyes For You (the second time I’d heard that song that day – TREND ALERT) and Patsy Cline’s Three Cigarettes in an Ashtray almost made me weep – saved from tears only by the feeling of excitement that this design duo had got it so right.

Illustrator/contributor extraordinaire Emma Block and her live fashion illustrations

I should probably stop banging on about the bloody room and talk about the clothes, right? Well, they were equally flawless. A handful of models, positioned on a central island, moved slowly around various pieces of furniture in flowing frocks with huge trains. Each frock featured discreet digital prints in gorgeous muted pastel colours, and the models were styled with a hint of 1920s/30s glamour – full red lips, tight curls. They didn’t smile much (that would have ruined it) but as they playfully crept around the set, an imposing chandelier hanging above, it actually looked like they were enjoying themselves. Result!


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

These dresses were expertly cut and the craftsmanship was faultless – that’s another good thing about a presentation, it sorts the men from the boys (I mean, it exposes poorly made garments). Layers of fabric had been fused together in a slightly oddball fashion but this provided a perfect marriage of classic and contemporary. In their own words, there’s ‘structure and fluidity‘. I couldn’t have put it better myself, which is why I copied it.

A row of static mannequins along the window edge displayed the rest of the collection – more dreamy yet subtle colours mixed with vivid yellows. These pieces showed Teatum Jones‘ commercial flair, but the winners were the show pieces, best viewed with a martini through a fake window.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,1920s, ,1930s, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,London Fashion Week, ,Martinis, ,Matt Bramford, ,pastels, ,Patsy Cline, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,S/S 2012, ,Savoy, ,Strand, ,Teatum Jones, ,The Flamingos, ,Trace PR, ,Trace Publicity, ,Womenswear

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