Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton
Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

For this season Peter Jensen was inspired by the force of nature that was Nina Simone, thumb picking on the many facets of her legendary life for inspiration, prescription including her overwhelming devil-may-care attitude. Presented in the Portico Rooms to a backdrop of classical music played live on a grand piano by Maria Marchant, this was a confident collection from a man who is assured of his place in the pantheon of established fashion designers.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter-Jensen SS-2012 by-Barb-Royal
Peter Jensen SS-2012 by Barb Royal.

Against the kitsch decor of a gold potted palm tree and signature neon bunny Peter Jensen sent out his girls in rabbit eared shades from Fabris Lane and elegant headscarfs by Bernstock Speirs: broderie anglaise, pan collars, pencil skirts with peplums, big hoop earrings by Erickson Beamon and ankle socks with t-bars all alluded to Nina Simone‘s early days as a good church going Southern girl.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Then from the 70s Peter Jensen brought us relaxed gold lame jerseywear teamed with swinging gold clasp handbags and bow decorated clutches. Sexy figure hugging scribble leopard print pants were teamed with lightweight gold cable knit jumpers. A colourful block print safari on a slim trench coat and crop-legged suit was inspired by the flickering TV static of constant attention on Nina Simone, from both audience and media.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A cheeky bi colour repeat parrot print gave a modern edge to a bare-shouldered peplum dress. Flounces running down the shoulders of a denim blue bib dress and frills just below the waist of a full gingham skirt were indicative of the cheeky feel that ran throughout this collection and was equally matched in the relaxed glamour stakes – pure Peter Jensen in other words.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Peter Jensen S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Spotted in the audience, a man with the most amazing twirly beard.

Categories ,79s, ,Barb Royal, ,Bernstock Speirs, ,Bunnies, ,Clutch Bags, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Erickson Beamon, ,Fabris Lane, ,Frills, ,Gold, ,Leopard Print, ,lfw, ,live music, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Marchant, ,Nina, ,Nina Simone, ,Pan Collars, ,pencil skirt, ,Peter Jensen, ,piano, ,Portico Rooms, ,Rabbit, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Safari, ,Somerset House, ,Village press

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: David Koma

David Koma SS12 by Gilly Rochester
David Koma S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Ahhhhh… David Koma. One of London‘s most feted new design talents and a hot ticket on a Tuesday you would think, cialis 40mg but this show was far from full let alone packed, viagra with people scurrying forwards to the front row from all sides as the show began. Beneath the glassed roof of the old Waterloo Eurostar terminal David Koma presented a beautiful collection on some so-so models. I’d heard rumours that an early start to Milan was dragging off the more important parts of the fashion industry but if ever there was proof this was it.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma Illustration By Kassie Berry
David Koma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry.

Despite some very interesting jutting heads and flapping arms I loved this collection, wherein David Koma played with shapes and textural movement like never before. A silky cream coloured concoction opened the show, with what amounted to a huge belt gathered at the waist into multi-layered loose pleats, inspired by African Zulu style. Underneath the most gauzy of under garments represented the majority of the dress, cut up by abstract devore shapes that were inspired by a combination of Polynesian tribal body paint and the work of artist Kim Joon.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A gradual hint of summery colour was brought to the proceedings through the use of lime green and bright rose pink on sleeves and behind the devore cut outs in chest panels. As in many other collections skirted shapes encompassed both pencil and a wider skater shape, but because of the layering it was here that the different looks worked at their seamless best.

David Koma by Gareth A Hopkins
David Koma S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

High heels by Alain Quilici were chunky with wide t-bar sections that frilled out in an echo of the waist pleats. Hair featured multiple partings similar to the abstract designs on clothing. Check out the amazing coloured Minx Nails up close in this blog on Inspirational.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
david_koma_by_ada_jusic
David Koma S/S 2012 by Ada Jusic.

With a rattle of swaying hips iridescent perspex adornments – a collaboration with jewellery designer Sarah Angold – began to spread across thighs and breasts. A series of inky black dresses were highlighted in turquoise before the final pieces became engulfed in an oily rainbow of perspex embellishment, this time repeated in exquisite pearlised sequin designs paired with more of that luscious lime. Yum.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
David Koma S/S 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,abstract, ,Ada Jusic, ,African, ,Alain Quilici, ,Belts, ,David Koma, ,Devore, ,Embellishment, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Inspirational, ,Iridescent, ,jewellery, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kim Joon, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Minx Nails, ,Pearlised, ,pencil skirt, ,Perspex, ,Pleated, ,Polynesian, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Angold, ,Skater Skirt, ,Tribal patterns, ,Waterloo Eurostar Terminal, ,Zulu

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011, Catwalk Review: Corrie Nielsen (by Helen)

Corrie_Nielsen_Abby_Wright_LFW

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection, find buy information pills illustration by Abby Wright

The BFC Tent is massive. Or a lot bigger than the other show spaces. But the benches are the same; white and hard. I went to where I was supposed to be seated and realised it was smack bang in the middle of an already super full bench. I went to the end of the bench; “Any…? No, no, ok then. Thanks.” Luckily a man on the bench behind saved me by shifting up a bit and motioning towards the space he’d made. “Ah wonderful, thanks!” I sort of wanted to chat with him, but found the non-moving up people – now before me- much more interesting. Yabbering and air kissing their faces off with some other people in another row. They went from exceptionally animated and friendly to bored and motionless in second. They reminded me of whippets. The BFC was packed, rammed, up to the brim. Before long, it went dark. The wall of photographers were in their pyramid, like hyeneas, eyes blazing, they were poised…some of them taking shots for no apparent reason. Or, just in case something ridiculous happens.

Corrie_Nielsen_-_lfw_aw_2011_-_jenny_robins

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection, illustration by Jenny Robins

Big shoulders, high necklines, victoriana, huge circle skirts, sashes over shoulders, trouser suits with extra long legs and short jackets, balooning at the middle slightly, and beautiful midi length skirt suits with puffed shoulders. The shoes were angular or strappy, and the hair either blown up, or short and sharply pointed. But as the show continued, the more dramatic it became. The start featured outfits you could happily wear to a whole host of occasions, all fitted, 60s shapes with Victorian influences, in reds, black, grey and teal, but then it went MAD.

CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_020CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_019CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_016CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_014 Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Matt Bramford

It was fantastic. Everything got extremely vulumnious. Enormous jackets, enveloping the models in shells of silky, padded looking fabrics. Deep purples, teals and bold reds came streaming out. Waist and neck detailing included ruffles, pleats and knots. Skirts were bubbled and swathing. Some were paired with sheer, ruffling tops, others; tight corsets. Many of the models also wore wide headbands, which added to the historic, modern twist charm, mixing modern design with 60s and the late 1800s. And making it work surprising well.

Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-1Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-2Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-3Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-4Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-5
Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Amelia Gregory

Then two show stopper dresses came out. One nearly pure, off white with a hooped top skirt, corseted top, long train and beautiful headpiece, wrapped around the model’s blonde hair. With ballet satin encased feet, this was ghostly, heavenly and adventurous in one. It appealed to me through its theatre, gracefulness and just off purity. The dress had character, frivolity and fantasy wrapped up. Spiced up innocence, a thrown out of her castle, princess. What did she do to be ejected? For me, although more Elizabethan perhaps in design than Victorian, this was Hardy’s; Tess of the d’Urbervilles. Walking over the hills, her boots worn through, her daze; a story.

CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_137CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_136CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_129CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_150CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_166

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Matt Bramford

In contrast, the next dress was BLACK. It reminded me of Queen Victoria herself, mixed with Queen Elizabeth I. Then with the addition of Helena Bonham-Carter and Tilda Swinton. Exploded hair, Elnett insanity, all rough, a bit haphazard and COOL. Together with the most over-ruffled, incredible dress, fit for a QUEEN, it was an explosion. Black as the darkest night, but with a slight shine, like the moon reflecting, the material was reminiscent of a glassy ocean at night. The neck was high, ruffled, starched and stretched down to the waist. The sleeves puffed at the top, then tightened to the wrists. Then the skirt was full and glorious, with a train behind. It was like watching the night fairy, or a stunning, black widow spider move along the catwalk. Deadly. She would have destroyed the off white, semi angel in seconds. It was the ‘other’ side of our heroine, Tess of the d’Urbervilles, downbeat on the moors. Or indeed, 19th century’s; Emily Brontë’s, Wuthering Heights. With Cathy, depressed at the Wuthering Heights estate, angered and serious, yet of course, utterly beautiful. I wish the show had been on the Yorkshire Moors (I don’t), as the dress would have looked sensational, with the wind whipping about and the layers of fabric billowing. The semi angel would have been on a deserted beach in Scotland, or a corn field. I wonder where Corrie would have placed them.

Corrie_Nielsen_2_-_lfw_aw_2011_-_jenny_robins

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W Collection, illustration by Jenny Robins

Dear Wuthering Heights, I quote thou: ‘Catherine Earnshaw, may you not rest as long as I am living; you said I killed you—haunt me, then! The murdered do haunt their murderers, I believe. I know that ghosts have wandered on earth. Be with me always—take any form—drive me mad! only do not leave me in this abyss, where I cannot find you! Oh, God! it is unutterable! I cannot live without my life! I cannot live without my soul!’

I hope you see what I mean.

Jenny Robins’ and Abby Wright’s illustrations can also be found in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, available here.

Categories ,1800s, ,1900s, ,19th century, ,60s, ,Abby Wright, ,black, ,blonde, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Elizabeth I, ,Elizabethan, ,Feminine, ,fitted, ,gothic, ,headbands, ,Helen Martin, ,heroine, ,Jenny Robins, ,lfw, ,LFW A/W 2011, ,models, ,pencil skirt, ,Queen, ,Queen Victoria, ,Red, ,teal, ,Tess of the D’Urbervilles, ,Thomas Hardy, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Wuthering Heights, ,Yorkshire Moors

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011, Catwalk Review: Corrie Nielsen (by Helen)

Corrie_Nielsen_Abby_Wright_LFW

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection, find buy information pills illustration by Abby Wright

The BFC Tent is massive. Or a lot bigger than the other show spaces. But the benches are the same; white and hard. I went to where I was supposed to be seated and realised it was smack bang in the middle of an already super full bench. I went to the end of the bench; “Any…? No, no, ok then. Thanks.” Luckily a man on the bench behind saved me by shifting up a bit and motioning towards the space he’d made. “Ah wonderful, thanks!” I sort of wanted to chat with him, but found the non-moving up people – now before me- much more interesting. Yabbering and air kissing their faces off with some other people in another row. They went from exceptionally animated and friendly to bored and motionless in second. They reminded me of whippets. The BFC was packed, rammed, up to the brim. Before long, it went dark. The wall of photographers were in their pyramid, like hyeneas, eyes blazing, they were poised…some of them taking shots for no apparent reason. Or, just in case something ridiculous happens.

Corrie_Nielsen_-_lfw_aw_2011_-_jenny_robins

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection, illustration by Jenny Robins

Big shoulders, high necklines, victoriana, huge circle skirts, sashes over shoulders, trouser suits with extra long legs and short jackets, balooning at the middle slightly, and beautiful midi length skirt suits with puffed shoulders. The shoes were angular or strappy, and the hair either blown up, or short and sharply pointed. But as the show continued, the more dramatic it became. The start featured outfits you could happily wear to a whole host of occasions, all fitted, 60s shapes with Victorian influences, in reds, black, grey and teal, but then it went MAD.

CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_020CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_019CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_016CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_014 Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Matt Bramford

It was fantastic. Everything got extremely vulumnious. Enormous jackets, enveloping the models in shells of silky, padded looking fabrics. Deep purples, teals and bold reds came streaming out. Waist and neck detailing included ruffles, pleats and knots. Skirts were bubbled and swathing. Some were paired with sheer, ruffling tops, others; tight corsets. Many of the models also wore wide headbands, which added to the historic, modern twist charm, mixing modern design with 60s and the late 1800s. And making it work surprising well.

Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-1Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-2Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-3Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-4Corrie_Nielson_AW_2011-5
Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Amelia Gregory

Then two show stopper dresses came out. One nearly pure, off white with a hooped top skirt, corseted top, long train and beautiful headpiece, wrapped around the model’s blonde hair. With ballet satin encased feet, this was ghostly, heavenly and adventurous in one. It appealed to me through its theatre, gracefulness and just off purity. The dress had character, frivolity and fantasy wrapped up. Spiced up innocence, a thrown out of her castle, princess. What did she do to be ejected? For me, although more Elizabethan perhaps in design than Victorian, this was Hardy’s; Tess of the d’Urbervilles. Walking over the hills, her boots worn through, her daze; a story.

CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_137CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_136CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_129CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_150CorrieNielsen_LFW_MattBramford_166

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Matt Bramford

In contrast, the next dress was BLACK. It reminded me of Queen Victoria herself, mixed with Queen Elizabeth I. Then with the addition of Helena Bonham-Carter and Tilda Swinton. Exploded hair, Elnett insanity, all rough, a bit haphazard and COOL. Together with the most over-ruffled, incredible dress, fit for a QUEEN, it was an explosion. Black as the darkest night, but with a slight shine, like the moon reflecting, the material was reminiscent of a glassy ocean at night. The neck was high, ruffled, starched and stretched down to the waist. The sleeves puffed at the top, then tightened to the wrists. Then the skirt was full and glorious, with a train behind. It was like watching the night fairy, or a stunning, black widow spider move along the catwalk. Deadly. She would have destroyed the off white, semi angel in seconds. It was the ‘other’ side of our heroine, Tess of the d’Urbervilles, downbeat on the moors. Or indeed, 19th century’s; Emily Brontë’s, Wuthering Heights. With Cathy, depressed at the Wuthering Heights estate, angered and serious, yet of course, utterly beautiful. I wish the show had been on the Yorkshire Moors (I don’t), as the dress would have looked sensational, with the wind whipping about and the layers of fabric billowing. The semi angel would have been on a deserted beach in Scotland, or a corn field. I wonder where Corrie would have placed them.

Corrie_Nielsen_2_-_lfw_aw_2011_-_jenny_robins

Corrie Nielsen LFW A/W Collection, illustration by Jenny Robins

Dear Wuthering Heights, I quote thou: ‘Catherine Earnshaw, may you not rest as long as I am living; you said I killed you—haunt me, then! The murdered do haunt their murderers, I believe. I know that ghosts have wandered on earth. Be with me always—take any form—drive me mad! only do not leave me in this abyss, where I cannot find you! Oh, God! it is unutterable! I cannot live without my life! I cannot live without my soul!’

I hope you see what I mean.

Jenny Robins’ and Abby Wright’s illustrations can also be found in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, available here.

Categories ,1800s, ,1900s, ,19th century, ,60s, ,Abby Wright, ,black, ,blonde, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Elizabeth I, ,Elizabethan, ,Feminine, ,fitted, ,gothic, ,headbands, ,Helen Martin, ,heroine, ,Jenny Robins, ,lfw, ,LFW A/W 2011, ,models, ,pencil skirt, ,Queen, ,Queen Victoria, ,Red, ,teal, ,Tess of the D’Urbervilles, ,Thomas Hardy, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,Wuthering Heights, ,Yorkshire Moors

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