Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: UCA Rochester

Joo-Hee Chun

Emma Box, illness illustrated by Lesley Barnes

So, reigning champions (or at least winners of 2009 Gold Award) UCA Rochester took to the catwalks on Tuesday to show their wares in a bid to cling on to their title amongst the heavyweights we’d already seen at Graduate Fashion Week.

I’m very pleased to announce that they certainly put up a good fight. With a simple chandelier hung from the ceiling above the catwalk, the show began with a rather long romantic song – thank God too, because my guest was running late and he managed to sneak in during the song in the nick of time.


Live catwalk illustrations by Tom Gilbert

First up was Alexa Papavasileiou who presented a modest yet striking collection that packed a few discrete punches (okay, I’ll stop with the boxing metaphors now). Body-concious printed dresses with full-length sleeves wrapped models in organic suits, while drapes hung over the models creating flattering lines. The most interesting twist was the appearance of constructed stilettos which had a grungy, paper mache effect and gave this sleek collection an edgy twist.

Other escapades in weird and wonderful shoe design were brought to us by Lydia Vousvouni, whose deconstructed womenswear tailoring had a futuristic feel, teamed with crazy shoes that looked like art deco sculptures.


Lydia Vousvouni, illustrated by Abi Daker

Rebecca Watson in stark contrast dressed her models in very eery skeletal masks, bringing a little touch of death-glamour to the runway. The clothes in comparison were relatively simple, consisting of cropped-sleeve tops, two-tone leggings and some pretty neat tailoring.

More digital prints on the catwalk; this time in Emma Box’s structured collection. Micro-skirts and leggings in said prints were teamed with bolero-length jackets with exaggerated shoulders, giving models a dash of sex appeal and masses of style.

Digital prints again, from the Gareth-Pugh-esque Alex Oliver. Her models were transformed into futuristic creatures, with emphasis on shoulders (huge, huge shoulders). Catsuits or short dresses in a psychedelic print were teamed with leather jackets with scary spikes; the climax being a model with a Margiela-style eye covering as part of a hood. It was scary but sexy at the same time.


Alex Oliver, illustrated by Lesley Barnes

The first menswear collection from Rochester was that of Chelsea Bravo, whose models had the appearance of modern-day gladiators. Smock t-shirts with scoop necks emphasised muscular form and Chelsea’s palette of muted colours including sand, burgundy and blue had a sophisticated edge.

Vicky Jolly presented one of the most sophisticated collections I’ve seen this year. Her couturier-like craftsmanship created elegant dresses, with twists and turns in fabrics flattering the female form.


Vicky Jolly, illustrated by Alli Coate

Finally, after what felt like waiting for decades, Hallam Burchett ramped up the glamour factor to a big fat 10. Models sashayed and swished their hips to Donna Summer’s Bad Girls whilst wearing an all-green silky collection, embellished with dazzling crystals and accessorised with demi-gloves. Sod the tits or legs rule in Burchett’s short, short strapless dress and flaunt what you’ve got at the disco! This 1970s-inspired collection had the cuts and lines to make it contemporary, though.

More menswear now, from Anachee Sae Lee and Cherelle Reid. The former was a contemporary take on colloquial dressing and conjured up images of Sherlock Holmes, Oliver Twist, chimney sweeps and Victorian funeral directors all at the same time. High values in tailoring made this a tip-top collection, with fitted suits teamed with neck-bows and crisp shirts with bib detailing were accessorised with sleek shirt-armbands and porkpie hats.


Anachee Sae Lee, illustrated by Abi Daker

Cherelle Reid, whilst employing similar tailoring elements, was an entirely different look. In a strong micro-collection worthy of a slot in any upmarket store come Autumn Winter 2010, models wore silky harem pants which tapered tightly, low-cut v-neck tops and formal jackets. The craftsmanship look exquisite, but the pecs were a bit much *fans brow*

In amidst a whole load of futuristic and structured collections at GFW this year, a welcome breath of fresh air came from show closer Carla Grima. Her magical Grecian-inspired collection was a burst of much-needed colour, and while it wasn’t a clangy hipster spectacle like some show finales, it was understated glamour at its best. Each dress created an illusionary effect as it hung effortlessly from the models, flattering their waif figures.

Having written this post-Gala Show, I now know that UCA Rochester didn’t manage to hold onto their crown as Gold Award winners for 2010. Amongst so much incredible talent, it’s so difficult to stand out. Nevertheless, each collection was incredibly strong, astonishingly creative, and never, ever boring.

Rochester, you’re all winners anyway.

Categories ,1970s, ,Abigail Daker, ,Alexa Papavasileiou, ,Anachee Sae Lee, ,Art Deco, ,Bad Girls, ,Body-con, ,Carla Grima, ,Catsuits, ,Chandelier, ,Chelsea Bravo, ,Cherelle Reid, ,Digital Prints, ,Donna Summer, ,Earls Court, ,Emma Box, ,Futurism, ,Gareth Pugh, ,God, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Grecian, ,Hallam Burchett, ,Harem pants, ,Lesley Barnes, ,london, ,Lydia Vousvouni, ,Martin Margiela, ,menswear, ,Oliver Twist, ,Paper Mache, ,Rebecca Watson, ,Sherlock Holmes, ,UCA Rochester, ,Vicky Jolly, ,Victoriana, ,Waif, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: UCA Rochester

Joo-Hee Chun

Emma Box, illness illustrated by Lesley Barnes

So, reigning champions (or at least winners of 2009 Gold Award) UCA Rochester took to the catwalks on Tuesday to show their wares in a bid to cling on to their title amongst the heavyweights we’d already seen at Graduate Fashion Week.

I’m very pleased to announce that they certainly put up a good fight. With a simple chandelier hung from the ceiling above the catwalk, the show began with a rather long romantic song – thank God too, because my guest was running late and he managed to sneak in during the song in the nick of time.


Live catwalk illustrations by Tom Gilbert

First up was Alexa Papavasileiou who presented a modest yet striking collection that packed a few discrete punches (okay, I’ll stop with the boxing metaphors now). Body-concious printed dresses with full-length sleeves wrapped models in organic suits, while drapes hung over the models creating flattering lines. The most interesting twist was the appearance of constructed stilettos which had a grungy, paper mache effect and gave this sleek collection an edgy twist.

Other escapades in weird and wonderful shoe design were brought to us by Lydia Vousvouni, whose deconstructed womenswear tailoring had a futuristic feel, teamed with crazy shoes that looked like art deco sculptures.


Lydia Vousvouni, illustrated by Abi Daker

Rebecca Watson in stark contrast dressed her models in very eery skeletal masks, bringing a little touch of death-glamour to the runway. The clothes in comparison were relatively simple, consisting of cropped-sleeve tops, two-tone leggings and some pretty neat tailoring.

More digital prints on the catwalk; this time in Emma Box’s structured collection. Micro-skirts and leggings in said prints were teamed with bolero-length jackets with exaggerated shoulders, giving models a dash of sex appeal and masses of style.

Digital prints again, from the Gareth-Pugh-esque Alex Oliver. Her models were transformed into futuristic creatures, with emphasis on shoulders (huge, huge shoulders). Catsuits or short dresses in a psychedelic print were teamed with leather jackets with scary spikes; the climax being a model with a Margiela-style eye covering as part of a hood. It was scary but sexy at the same time.


Alex Oliver, illustrated by Lesley Barnes

The first menswear collection from Rochester was that of Chelsea Bravo, whose models had the appearance of modern-day gladiators. Smock t-shirts with scoop necks emphasised muscular form and Chelsea’s palette of muted colours including sand, burgundy and blue had a sophisticated edge.

Vicky Jolly presented one of the most sophisticated collections I’ve seen this year. Her couturier-like craftsmanship created elegant dresses, with twists and turns in fabrics flattering the female form.


Vicky Jolly, illustrated by Alli Coate

Finally, after what felt like waiting for decades, Hallam Burchett ramped up the glamour factor to a big fat 10. Models sashayed and swished their hips to Donna Summer’s Bad Girls whilst wearing an all-green silky collection, embellished with dazzling crystals and accessorised with demi-gloves. Sod the tits or legs rule in Burchett’s short, short strapless dress and flaunt what you’ve got at the disco! This 1970s-inspired collection had the cuts and lines to make it contemporary, though.

More menswear now, from Anachee Sae Lee and Cherelle Reid. The former was a contemporary take on colloquial dressing and conjured up images of Sherlock Holmes, Oliver Twist, chimney sweeps and Victorian funeral directors all at the same time. High values in tailoring made this a tip-top collection, with fitted suits teamed with neck-bows and crisp shirts with bib detailing were accessorised with sleek shirt-armbands and porkpie hats.


Anachee Sae Lee, illustrated by Abi Daker

Cherelle Reid, whilst employing similar tailoring elements, was an entirely different look. In a strong micro-collection worthy of a slot in any upmarket store come Autumn Winter 2010, models wore silky harem pants which tapered tightly, low-cut v-neck tops and formal jackets. The craftsmanship look exquisite, but the pecs were a bit much *fans brow*

In amidst a whole load of futuristic and structured collections at GFW this year, a welcome breath of fresh air came from show closer Carla Grima. Her magical Grecian-inspired collection was a burst of much-needed colour, and while it wasn’t a clangy hipster spectacle like some show finales, it was understated glamour at its best. Each dress created an illusionary effect as it hung effortlessly from the models, flattering their waif figures.

Having written this post-Gala Show, I now know that UCA Rochester didn’t manage to hold onto their crown as Gold Award winners for 2010. Amongst so much incredible talent, it’s so difficult to stand out. Nevertheless, each collection was incredibly strong, astonishingly creative, and never, ever boring.

Rochester, you’re all winners anyway.

Categories ,1970s, ,Abigail Daker, ,Alexa Papavasileiou, ,Anachee Sae Lee, ,Art Deco, ,Bad Girls, ,Body-con, ,Carla Grima, ,Catsuits, ,Chandelier, ,Chelsea Bravo, ,Cherelle Reid, ,Digital Prints, ,Donna Summer, ,Earls Court, ,Emma Box, ,Futurism, ,Gareth Pugh, ,God, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Grecian, ,Hallam Burchett, ,Harem pants, ,Lesley Barnes, ,london, ,Lydia Vousvouni, ,Martin Margiela, ,menswear, ,Oliver Twist, ,Paper Mache, ,Rebecca Watson, ,Sherlock Holmes, ,UCA Rochester, ,Vicky Jolly, ,Victoriana, ,Waif, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Camberwell College of Arts: Ovo Show Illustration Graduate Show 2011 Review – Upstairs

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011

The Camberwell College of Art illustration show was by far my very favourite graduate illustration degree show to attend this year… I loved almost everything on display at Ovo Show, troche and they’ve also improved radically in terms of communication and promotion since last year’s Save Our Souls – many of them seem to be on twitter, visit they’ve held a sale of work to benefit Art Against Knives, and they had a wonderful stall where it was possible to buy prints, hand made books and even some knitted creatures by Alice Stanley (like I could resist!)

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Alice Stanley Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Alice Stanley bear

The folks manning the sales stand were utterly charming and on the case: tweeting me after we met. All the work was well labelled, with a website next to the name. Everyone had a website! Really, I get very excited about these small things. First up: upstairs.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Natalie Kay-ThatcherCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Natalie Kay-Thatcher
Natalie Kay-Thatcher asked How to Start a Feynman? inspired by Richard Feynmans books about his scientific work. In her well presented wall panel she illustrated the formation of a scientist’s mind.

Cressida Knapp social unrest inflaming
Cressida Knapp ai weiweiCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Cressida Knapp Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Cressida Knapp
Cressida Knapp‘s work had already caught my eye online: with a series of images illustrating everything from vikings to spacemen to Ai Wei Wei. She’d also created a series of paper mache heads, displayed in a row.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Cressida Knapp
Cressida Knapp Aurora and the Moon Man
Cressida Knapp Aurora and the Moon Man
She’s interested in current affairs, which of course tickles me no end, and I love her dream like illustrations for Aurora and the Moon Man.

Chloe SimosCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Chloe SimosCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Chloe SimosCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Chloe Simoschloe simou_mandrill_2011
Chloe Simos created wonderful portraits of women – with long pigtails and embroidered shawls, with feathered headdress and medallions, with a banjo. Wonderfully patterned in just a few colours. The base of a lithograph worked especially well on the wall. And I LOVE her monkey.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Andy BarronCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Andy Barron
Andy Barron did bold book jacket designs for some famous novels.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Liam Cobb
Liam Cobb did some wonderful designs for Coral City and The Cab Driver.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Rosie Chamberlain Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Rosie Chamberlain
Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Rosie Chamberlain
Rosie Chamberlain splashed great swathes of bright colours to create watery illustrations.

Jimmy Patrick Four Riders of the Apocalypse
Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Jimmy Patrick
Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Jimmy Patrick
Inspired by plate techtonics Jimmy Patrick had made a bulging 3D quilt for his final piece, and next door he showed some outlaws on wooden animals, Four Riders of the Apocalypse.

Watch Fault Line up close in this fab video.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Sophy Hollington Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Sophy Hollington Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Sophy Hollington
Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Sophy Hollington
Sophy Hollington displayed some fantastic work from the book How the Dead Will Live.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Sophy Hollington
Her poster for Mazes was absolutely gorgeous: weird and eye catching. She is a printmaker who looks for the magic in everyday life.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-James Cartwright
James Cartwright had done a gorgeous grahpic lino cut for an album sleeve.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Harriet Cory-Wright
Harriet Cory-Wright had done some fine line geometric abstracts.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Lizzie Scarlett Towndrow Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Lizzie Scarlett Towndrow
Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Lizzie Scarlett Towndrow
Lizzie Scarlett Towndrow works in 3D with fabric and for the exhibition had created a huge bear figure – see the diagramatic drawings of his conception on Lizzie’s blog – as well as a patchwork chair and hanging.

No One Belongs Here More Than You tamsin nagel
tamsin nagel parasitic wasp
Tamsin Nagel worked in fine pencil to create a weird other world, where elephants roam suburbia.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Philippe FennerCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Philippe FennerCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Philippe Fenner
Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Philippe FennerCamberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-Philippe Fenner
Philippe Fenner‘s red and black work was inspired by football teams of yore.

Thomas Slater-happy-hour-at-home thomas-slater-our-beige-world-french-revolution-
Thomas Slater‘s work used minimal colour ways to create bold images.

Camberwell College of Art illustration graduate show 2011-kyle platt
Kyle Platts showed bizarre illustrations, inspired by McBess and James Unsworth. I liked his red man.

Next up my review of the work downstairs at the Ovo Show, held at the Red Gallery.

Categories ,2011, ,3D, ,Ai Wei Wei, ,Alice Stanley, ,Andy Barron, ,Art Against Knives, ,Aurora and the Moon Man, ,Bear, ,Book Design, ,Camberwell College of Arts, ,Chloe Simos, ,Chloe Simou, ,Coral City, ,Cressida Knapp, ,Fault Line, ,Four Riders of the Apocalypse, ,Graduate Shows, ,Harriet Cory-Wright, ,How the Dead Will Live, ,How to Start a Feynman?, ,illustration, ,James Cartwright, ,James Unsworth, ,Kyle Platts, ,Liam Cobb, ,Lizzie Scarlett Towndrow, ,Mazes, ,Natalie Kay-Thatcher, ,Ovo Show, ,Paper Mache, ,Patchwork, ,Philippe Fenner, ,Red Gallery, ,review, ,Richard Feynman, ,Rosie Chamberlain, ,Save Our Souls, ,Sophy Hollington, ,Tamsin Nagel, ,The Cab Driver, ,Thomas Slater

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