Amelia’s Magazine | Sheena Matheiken’s The Uniform Project

Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp
Can it really be a year since the last Glastonbury? In 2009, viagra sale more about for the first time, Climate Camp was given it’s very own space in the Dragon Field just above the Craft Field as you wend your way down to Shangri La. This year we’re back to once again educate and entertain festival goers at our beautiful site only a few minutes walk from the Old Railway Line.

Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp workshop
Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp paddling pool
Glastonbury-June-2009-First Aid Kit
Workshops, at play, and First Aid Kit playing at the Climate Camp Tripod Stage in 2009.

In 2010 Climate Camp is targeting the Royal Bank of Scotland, which has been bailed out with £50 billion of public money that is now being used to finance the extraction of fossil fuels across the world, with no regard for climate change or the destruction of communities that it causes. We will be camping near the RBS global headquarters in Edinburgh, Scotland, between 19th-25th August, but in the meantime to find out more about why we decided to focus on RBS this year come along and take a look at our exhibition at Glastonbury, then pick up a copy of our Never Mind The Bankers newspaper to peruse over a cup of tea or share with friends. We will be running DIY screenprinting workshops where you can learn how to screenprint your clothing with an anti RBS slogan. Simply bring your own or print onto one of our tshirts or bags. A great activity for kids! There will also be a chance to take part in Tripod Training: Tripods are used to blockade and secure a space on a direct action protest; come find out how to put them up and climb them safely. Good fun, and no previous experience or skills required.

Glastonbury-June-2009-tripod training
Glastonbury-June-2009-tripod training
Tripod Training.

Then of course there is our fabulous music, poetry and comedy line up, put together by yours truly. Read on to find out who will be gracing our Tripod Stage…. Pyramid Stage eat your heart out, this is where the real talent is.

Green-Kite-Midnight
Green Kite Midnight.

When I wrote up about the Climate Camp presence at Glastonbury in 2009 in my blog I talked about my hope that my band Green Kite Midnight would be able to play as the Climate Camp house band in 2010, so I’m very excited to report that we will be doing daily gigs this year. Five years ago I co-founded the barndance troupe Cutashine out of a desire to make traditional collective dancing more fun: after all, what’s better than a dance where you get to meet other people and really work up a sweat?

YouTube Preview Image

With Cutashine I played at gigs all over Glastonbury for several years, then left to start Green Kite Midnight through my contacts in Climate Camp; a band that supports and plays at direct action protests. Our first gig was at the Climate Camp in Bishopsgate during the G20 in April last year, we played to 800 people at the Blackheath Climate Camp in August 2009, and more recently we went on a 10 day solidarity bike ride together to play gigs to support the struggle against the Shell gas pipeline at Rossport in Ireland. With myself as emcee (I’m a gobby shite, so turn your mind away from those boring barn dances you might have attended as a child) we can teach anyone how to barn dance, so please come and join us.

And now for the rest of our fabulous line-up:

anna log
Anna Log
My Luminaries
My Luminaries, photography by James Dean White.

On Thursday we kick off four days of renewably powered music with a fabulous folky female. Anna Log – singer with pop folk band We Aeronauts – will be doing a solo set accompanied by her trusty uke. After our first ceilidh Glastonbury Emerging Talent winners My Luminaries round the evening off with a special semi-acoustic set of their epic indie rock.

Kirsty Almeida
Kirsty Almeida
Danny and the Champions of the World
Danny and the Champions of the World

On Friday Kirsty Almeida opens for us with her bass heavy soulful Bayou blues, then we’re pleased to welcome the epic musical dreamscapes of Newislands, described as Pink Floyd meets Depeche Mode. After that it’s time for some other Climate Camp regulars, Danny Chivers, Claire Fauset and Merrick, to grace the stage with their “triple-headed tag team political poetry extravaganza”. They’re all friends of mine that I’ve seen perform before so I highly recommend their set, which will be repeated on Sunday afternoon. As a closer we have the country-tinged big band folk of Danny and the Champions of the World.

kyla la grange
Kyla la Grange
Patch William
Patch William
Dry the River
Dry the River

To kick the day off on Saturday we welcome an exclusive Glastonbury appearance from a talented newcomer with a stunning voice; Kyla La Grange creates soaring melodies and is nearing completion of her debut album. Then comes Patch William – the dreamy lovechild of Nick Drake and Jimi Hendrix, who are followed by the scuzzy rock sound of York boys The Federals, described as a cross between the White Stripes and The Beatles. Then, time for a very special guest. Following my interview with Robin Ince a few weeks he very kindly promised to come by and do us a *special secret set* which will be a must see for all comedy fans at the festival. Tell all your friends! And come on by for a very intimate set from this well known comedian. Dry the River end the day with their beautiful melodic folk, singing songs of religion, history and community to rival those of Fleet Foxes and Mumford & Sons.

Pete the Temp
Pete the Temp
Pete Lawrie
Pete Lawrie
Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.
Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.

On Sunday we’ve got another packed day to end the festival. Pete the Temp returns to wow us with his comedic eco-political music and spoken word, then we look forward to hearing the bittersweet gospel blues of latecomer Pete Lawrie, who confirmed just as our flyer had gone to print. I am particularly pleased to welcome Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly. the official moniker of singer songwriter Sam Duckworth. He will be showcasing music from his new album due for release later this year, and I’ve got a soft spot for him because he appeared in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine. Robinson will play a gypsy cajun folk set before we round off the festival with our GRAND RAFFLE. If you see our outreach team out and about please give generously to support Climate Camp and come along to our grand prize giving, which will be hosted by the inimitable Danny Chivers.

Glastonbury-June-2009-Grand Raffle presented by Danny Chivers
The Grand Raffle presented by Danny Chivers in 2009.

Don’t forget to follow myself and Climate Camp on twitter to find out how the festival is going; we can always live in hope that 3G reception will be better than it was last year! But most of all, don’t forget to come and visit us… and bring your friends along with you. I will of course write up a full report on my return. For a reminder of what to expect read my blog from last year here.

For a map and full timing information for all bands and workshops see this listings page.


Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

School’s almost out for summer. Soon blazers and ties will be ditched, adiposity with delight, cost for butterfly-bright bathers; and mortar boards tossed in glee at graduations everywhere. Uniforms may seem the antithesis of lazy, check hazy holidays and fantastic futures, but in cyberspace there’s one – albeit self-imposed – uniform showing us there’s a wealth of creativity to be found in the economical and ethical capsule wardrobe.  Will the Uniform Project please stand up!

May 1st 2010 saw the Uniform Project graduate with flying colours. An “exercise in sustainability”, in 2009, one Sheena Matheiken had pledged to wear one Little Black Dress, everyday for one year, for the Akanksha Foundation – a not-for-profit organisation educating kids in Indian slums.  Sheena and designer friend Eliza Starbuck, created a LBD which could be worn front, back, undone, for every season and all occasions. And for anyone wondering, “When did she wash the blighter?” she had seven all the same; adapting and accessorising with trinkets and treasures found on eBay, Etsy, or donated by ethical designers, like London’s own, Goodone – oh, and Sheena’s mother! 

Throughout its daily blog posts, the UP showed us how to put individual style into sustainable dress. From Day 1, “Albeit the rain and the swine”, in “classic black form”, through homage to Michael Jackson chic on Day 57, an Indian Independence Day sari ensemble, even an ‘evil sea sprite’ costume on Halloween – “Sprite seaweed and ocean foliage made entirely from UP accessory donors’ packaging material” – the UP proved there was more creativity to be had in one LBD than the whole Haus of Gaga. Well almost. 

In fact the LBD became the perfect backdrop for designers to display their wares.  Day 191 saw Sheena sporting a cape by Raffaele Ascione, “handcrafted from a satin overthrow blanket his grandmother used to own.” A Central Saint Martins student keen to raise funds to support his MA, Ascione’s designs have been donned by Lady Gaga herself, and in donating pieces to the UP he’s gained a web-wide audience eager to lap up his ethical ingenuity.  


Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With some 5,500 Twitter followers and even more Facebook fans the UP has created an on-line social network to be reckoned with. At a recent New York symposium, Sheena said some of the UP’s ideas, like LBD Fridays, where supporters, worldwide, wore their own LBD ‘uniforms’ in aid of the project, had come directly from the UP community. Philanthropy, she said, should be ‘fun’, “… it’s about engaging on an intimate level and creating awareness in a way that allows people to really be a part of the change you are instigating.” 

At the ‘end of term’ party the UP celebrated kitting out over 260 Indian children for school.  And in the true spirit of sustainable style its Head Girl, Sheena, graduated in a “ reclaimed, recycled, renovated and refashioned” LBD; signalling the future’s not just bright for the kids it has helped into education, but also for the UP itself. 

When Chanel declared the LBD  “the new uniform of modern women”, back in the 1920s, its simplicity symbolised freedom. Freedom from status anxiety and constrictive fashion – another uniform of sorts, only one we didn’t always knowingly sign up to. Perhaps because the perfect LBD is glorified as style’s holy grail the simplicity of its message is often lost amongst all-consuming fast fashion fads. But it’s this very simplicity which has made the UP so successful.  Thus the Uniform Project has proved to be a much needed less-on to us all, to “Aspire. Achieve. Be the change.” (Akanksha Foundation motto).  

Categories ,1920s, ,Akanksha Foundation, ,Central Saint Martins, ,chanel, ,ebay, ,Eliza Starbuck, ,etsy, ,Facebook, ,goodone, ,Hallowe’en, ,Helen Davis, ,India, ,Lady Gaga, ,LBD, ,Little Black Dress, ,london, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Michael Jackson, ,new york, ,Philanthropy, ,Raffaele Ascione, ,Sheena Mathelken, ,sustainability, ,Sustainable Style, ,The Uniform Project, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Spijkers en Spijkers: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Cristian Grossi
Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Cristian Grossi

From the looks of the feminine and pretty invite (which was beautifully illustrated by Dutch artist Martine Johanna) I didn’t expect anything too shocking from this A/W 2012 collection by Spijkers en Spijkers.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

The mood music as we sat down consisted of haunting, screeching quotes, so I suspected that we were in for something dark, haunting, and a little different. The quotes were from the original 1975 Grey Gardens documentary depicting the life of Big Edie and Little Edie, the aunt and first cousin of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis. It is a real-life tale of a mother and a daughter driven to an eccentric state of solitude, after falling from the grace of high-society New York when Edie’s father left them penniless. Little Edie, in the eyes of Spijkers en Spijkers, was a colourful ‘Bird of Paradise‘ and served as a muse for the collection.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Sam Mardon

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Sam Mardon

The music set the tone perfectly; the despair, drama, and frailty in the voices echoed the strong yet feminine use of colour and 1940′s silhouettes. Lyrics about houses being set on fire and Edie Bouvier Beale’s mother telling her what to do sent chills down my spine as I simultaneously warmed to the mixed-up styling by Karen Binns. It was well documented that these two women had to make do with what they had, forcing them to mix clothes up in new ways. ‘Never throw anything old away‘ the music boomed, echoing dresses paired with clashing tops or fluorescent jewellery.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

spijkers en spijkers A/W 2012 by anna higgie

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

There was some of Spijkers en Spijkers unmistakable graphic detailing in the accessories and makeup, too. Little birds adorned shoulders and dresses in the form of a print or a brooch, hair was finger-waved and set into strong curves, set off with sweet but modern-day plastic headbands. The make-up was fresh, reminding me of when you first start to try wearing makeup as a teenager, sticking to bold lines and bright colours and not really knowing how to do subtle looks just yet.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Silks, satins, wool and prints were in a gorgeously covetable range of vintage-looking colours. Lime green and yellows reminded me of old stained-glass windows, while the rich purples and oranges referenced faded but no less opulent interiors.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Rebecca Hendin

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Rebecca Hendin

Something I’ve noticed this London Fashion Week is that while a lot of designers are referencing the dark and frightening for A/W 2012, they’re doing so in an unexpected way: making a conscious effort to hint at the macabre, court the morbid and inject collections with a touch of despair in beautiful and new ways. Even though the inspiration for this collection was part tragedy, the result was charming. The strong tailoring, warmer colours for winter and underlying tale of two women – all make you want to engage with this story.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Yasmin Mason

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Yasmin Mason

The catwalk show itself was a little bit like the thrill you feel when watching a scary movie; dark and even a little disturbing, but you can’t look away, making it all the more appealing. Spijkers and Spijkers have found a way to make you want the collection even more, delivering a desirable collection for those who like clothes that tell a story, especially if it’s as lavishly haunting as this one.

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory
Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Cristian Grossi
Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Cristian Grossi

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Zulekha lakeca

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Zulekha lakeca

Spijkers en Spijkers A/W 2012 by Zulek Halakeca

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Anna Higgie, ,birds, ,Claire Kearns, ,Cristian Grossi, ,Edie Bouvier Beale, ,Fluorescent, ,Grey Gardens, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,new york, ,Rebecca Hendin, ,Sam Mardon, ,Silk, ,Spijkers en Spijkers, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vintage, ,wool, ,Yasmin Mason, ,Zulek Halakeca

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2011 – A Preview


Kirsty Ward, cialis 40mg pilule illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Oh God, doctor more about is it really that time again? Do I really have to stay up, approved night after night, sending all those emails? Worrying about outfits? Processing 12,000 photographs? Yep, London Fashion Week is just around the corner, and yesterday Vauxhall Fashion Scout announced their line up for their extra special Ones to Watch show.

Previous winners of the accolade include Ada Zanditon and Lu Flux (both in Amelia’s new book) as well as Eudon Choi and David Longshaw. Last season’s outing was an ecclectic mix of ‘dandyish’ menswear, cream pleats and yellow ruffles. The line up this time around looks certain to impress, though – Central Saint Martins’ graduates Anja Mlakar and Kirsty Ward, along with Sara Bro-Jorgensen and Tze Goh.

While we all get excited about London’s most fashionable five days, here’s a little round up of the new design talent.

Tze Goh

Illustration by Lana Hughes

Tze Goh graduated with a BA from Parsons in New York before completing an MA at Central Saint Martins. Tze’s collections to date have had that strong, minimal aesthetic with emphasis on shape and sculpture.

They’re definitely futuristic, and each garment appears to have been moulded from an unknown material rather than sewn from jersey. Pieces emphasise the shapes of his models – exaggerated shoulders and discrete twists in fabric make for modern, appealing clothes. Hopefully he’ll stick to his minimalist principles during his outing this coming season.

Kirsty Ward

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

Kirsty Ward is brilliant. She’s one of the most unique designers I’ve seen in ages, and it’s no surprise that she’s, yep – you guessed it – Central Saint Martin’s alumni and went on to work with Alberta Ferretti in Italy. Amelia reviewed her collection last season , a vertiable wonder of sculptural jewellery and clothing that echoes the contours of the body.

I loved her work with David Longshaw (creating jewellery that he teamed with his collection) during his debut on the very same Ones to Watch stage a year ago This season promises another fashion-forward outing.

Anja Mlakar

Illustration by Willa Gebbie

Anja Mlakar is – you guessed it – another Central Saint Martins graduate. I’m feeling fatigued typing those three words already and the shows haven’t even started. Anyway, Her debut collection harboured much interest and having only graduated last year, Anja is set to cement herself in fashion this coming season.

Her S/S 2011 collection was a welcome ray of sunshine, with bursts of pastel yellows and pinks. Her aesthetic features structural forms and body-concious frocks, and her style straddles the fine line between flattering and futuristic. The most diverse collection, it will be intereting to see if Anja develops a particular element or mixes it up again.

Sara Bro-Jorgensen

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Sara, a Royal College of Art graduate (at last!) takes a different approach to fashion and is heavily influenced by 2D forms like black and white photographs. She’s been nominated for awards here and there.

Her previous collections contain a mix of knits and deconstructed pieces, and I’m not exaggerating when I say this girl digs black. As it’s the A/W 2011 we’re looking forward to, I wouldn’t be surprised if we see more of fashion’s favourite colour on Sara’s outing, but then what do I know?

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Alberta Feretti, ,black, ,Central Saint Martins, ,David Longshaw, ,fashion, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Italy, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,Lana Hughes, ,London Fashion Week, ,new york, ,Ones To Watch, ,parsons, ,Royal College of Art, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Willa Gebbie

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2011 – A Preview


Kirsty Ward, cialis 40mg pilule illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Oh God, doctor more about is it really that time again? Do I really have to stay up, approved night after night, sending all those emails? Worrying about outfits? Processing 12,000 photographs? Yep, London Fashion Week is just around the corner, and yesterday Vauxhall Fashion Scout announced their line up for their extra special Ones to Watch show.

Previous winners of the accolade include Ada Zanditon and Lu Flux (both in Amelia’s new book) as well as Eudon Choi and David Longshaw. Last season’s outing was an ecclectic mix of ‘dandyish’ menswear, cream pleats and yellow ruffles. The line up this time around looks certain to impress, though – Central Saint Martins’ graduates Anja Mlakar and Kirsty Ward, along with Sara Bro-Jorgensen and Tze Goh.

While we all get excited about London’s most fashionable five days, here’s a little round up of the new design talent.

Tze Goh

Illustration by Lana Hughes

Tze Goh graduated with a BA from Parsons in New York before completing an MA at Central Saint Martins. Tze’s collections to date have had that strong, minimal aesthetic with emphasis on shape and sculpture.

They’re definitely futuristic, and each garment appears to have been moulded from an unknown material rather than sewn from jersey. Pieces emphasise the shapes of his models – exaggerated shoulders and discrete twists in fabric make for modern, appealing clothes. Hopefully he’ll stick to his minimalist principles during his outing this coming season.

Kirsty Ward

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

Kirsty Ward is brilliant. She’s one of the most unique designers I’ve seen in ages, and it’s no surprise that she’s, yep – you guessed it – Central Saint Martin’s alumni and went on to work with Alberta Ferretti in Italy. Amelia reviewed her collection last season , a vertiable wonder of sculptural jewellery and clothing that echoes the contours of the body.

I loved her work with David Longshaw (creating jewellery that he teamed with his collection) during his debut on the very same Ones to Watch stage a year ago This season promises another fashion-forward outing.

Anja Mlakar

Illustration by Willa Gebbie

Anja Mlakar is – you guessed it – another Central Saint Martins graduate. I’m feeling fatigued typing those three words already and the shows haven’t even started. Anyway, Her debut collection harboured much interest and having only graduated last year, Anja is set to cement herself in fashion this coming season.

Her S/S 2011 collection was a welcome ray of sunshine, with bursts of pastel yellows and pinks. Her aesthetic features structural forms and body-concious frocks, and her style straddles the fine line between flattering and futuristic. The most diverse collection, it will be intereting to see if Anja develops a particular element or mixes it up again.

Sara Bro-Jorgensen

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Sara, a Royal College of Art graduate (at last!) takes a different approach to fashion and is heavily influenced by 2D forms like black and white photographs. She’s been nominated for awards here and there.

Her previous collections contain a mix of knits and deconstructed pieces, and I’m not exaggerating when I say this girl digs black. As it’s the A/W 2011 we’re looking forward to, I wouldn’t be surprised if we see more of fashion’s favourite colour on Sara’s outing, but then what do I know?

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Alberta Feretti, ,black, ,Central Saint Martins, ,David Longshaw, ,fashion, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Italy, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,Lana Hughes, ,London Fashion Week, ,new york, ,Ones To Watch, ,parsons, ,Royal College of Art, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Willa Gebbie

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mich Dulce launches her new Saints and Sinners S/S 2012 hat collection at No-One

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce S/S 2012 Saints and Sinners. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Last night I went to the launch of Mich Dulce‘s new hat collection, side effects Saints and Sinners, which was held at No-One in Shoreditch.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce has trained long and hard in the art of millinery, with stints at Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion and at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. She has also been apprenticed to designers Marjan Pejoski and Jessica Ogden but more recently she has branched out on her own, receiving accolades as the winner of the International Creative Fashion Entrepreneur in 2010 at LFW.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Her beautiful creations have been worn by Anna Dello Russo and Adam Ant also sports her designs on his current tour. In fact, Adam Ant was at the launch, looking relatively normal apart from fantastic multicoloured nails and many jewelled fingers (unfortunately not visible in this photo).

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce‘s new collection features amazing curvaceous designs in spiralled, budding, winged, rosette shapes. Options are available in elegant greys and blacks or vibrant yellow and pink, some with netting or on headbands, all of which guests were encouraged to try on.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Her gorgeous hats are highly desirable but that’s not all that makes Mich Dulce special: coming from the Philippines she has made it her mission to celebrate traditional Filipino crafts through her choice of materials. All the hats are handmade from T’nalck, which is woven with abaca fibre by the women of the T’Boli peoples of Lake Sebu in South Cotobato in the Philippines. The craft is an essential part of their heritage which Mich is proud to support and promote to a wider international audience. The final headpieces are also ethically made by the Gawad Kalinga Community Development Foundation, with all craftspeople personally trained by Mich.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory Rob Lucas and Adam Ant
Rob Lucas and Adam Ant.

It was great to finally meet Mich since we’ve been conversing on twitter for some time. I also spent a long time chatting to a very interesting chap called Rob Lucas, who works as a antique arms and military specialist for Bonhams and in his spare time creates revolutionary inspired menswear for his Pimpernel label. Next year Rob is launching a brand new military inspired label with Adam Ant: Blueblack Hussar, and Mich Dulce will be designing the headwear. I can’t wait!

Also check out Mich Dulce’s own blog about the event… featuring myself with bike!

Categories ,2010, ,Adam Ant, ,Anna Dello Russo, ,Antique Arms and Militaria, ,Blueblack Hussar, ,Bonhams, ,Central Saint Martins, ,craft, ,ethical, ,Fashion Institute of Technology, ,Filipino, ,Gawad Kalinga Community Development Foundation, ,handmade, ,hats, ,International Creative Fashion Entrepreneur, ,Jessica Ogden, ,Lake Sebu, ,London College of Fashion, ,Marjan Pejoski, ,Mich Dulce, ,military, ,millinery, ,new york, ,No-One, ,Philippines, ,Pimpernel, ,Revolutionary, ,Rob Lucas, ,shoreditch, ,South Cotabato, ,T’Boli, ,T’nalck, ,Woven

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li.

The much anticipated Nova Chiu collection took the finale spot with Ones to Watch this season. We were of course very excited to see the progress of this label, which was much lauded at the LCF graduate shows last summer, and which we covered in a preview just last week. This time around Nova Chiu comprises of the design duo of Nova Chiu and designer Jeff Archer, whom she met whilst interning with Anna Sui in New York.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones_to_Watch_Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

This was an expectedly colourful collection of clashing fabrics and colours that drew on tribal and peasant influences and cheerfully married them with the modern – witness brightly patterned leggings, dangling tassel earrings, intense strips of embroidery, triangular pleated waist peplums, furry all in one suits and zany oversized earmuffs. It certainly proved that Nova Chiu have a signature style to watch, and cemented their place as a fashion label much beloved of illustrators. We can’t wait to see what next season brings.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
NOVA CHIU AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

Don’t forget to read our preview blog post about Nova Chiu.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Sui, ,Barb Royal, ,Claire Jones, ,Ellen Li, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jeff Archer, ,lfw, ,new york, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing AOFM: the Academy of Freelance Make Up

AOFM by YesGo!
AOFM by YesGo!

AOFM or the Academy of Freelance Make Up (artists) is the brainchild of New Zealander Jana Ririnui and Englishman Jason Mallet, discount who met, viagra like, mere months before they started up in business together – Jason bringing the business nous and Jana the creative spark. I’ve already had a chance to peruse their gorgeous coffee table book Make Up is Art at the Forward PR press day, and last week I had a chance to actually take a look around their Soho studios and learn a bit more about what AOFM does.

AOFM-Jana and Jason
AOFM’s Jana and Jason. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Gathered in one of their airy studios on Dean Street the pair explained to us how they give students the opportunity to work in a real fashion environment backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at LFW. AOFM was set up because Jana was frustrated that fellow make up artists weren’t being trained in the realities of working in the fast paced and often brutal fashion world, so it’s a place where not only do you get a brilliant make up artist training but also real hands on experience of working in the industry.

AOFM Jana and Jason by Jenny Robins
Jana and Jason with their chihuahuas. By Jenny Robins.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

Despite having been going for under five years AOFM has already garnered huge acclaim and is all set to open up their New York wing this May. In that time Jana’s students have done everything “from X Factor to Italian Vogue” so they are highly rated in the industry, and Lauren Amps (who did my make up again) won make up artist of the year only two years after she left the college.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
Lauren Amps at work. Yes, there is make up in those drawers, there’s a reason why she’s on the floor!

Students are given a realistic view of what to expect if they work in the industry, which Jana says weeds a great deal of them out straight away because they simply aren’t willing to put the hard graft in to get where they want. There is a generation coming up now who expect things to fall into their lap, something I have noticed as well… the me me me middle class generation who’ve never experienced any hardships and are somewhat flummoxed by the cruel workings of the real world. Some students arrive with false expectations of what AOFM can do for them, but if they can’t “do a good smokey eye and a red lip” then they won’t be recommended for shows. I do love a strong look and the classic smokey eyes and red lips are clearly a crucial basis for many other looks.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory bespoke make up brush set
AOFM bespoke make up brush set.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Make Up is Art
The AOFM bible: Make Up is Art. An inspiring collection of ideas intended for both professionals and beginners.

According to AOFM it usually takes about five years to get an agent, something which can be much quicker depending on a make up artist’s financial position. The sad truth is that like so many jobs it really does depend on whether you are secure, and in the case of make up artists it sounds like lots of people have hubbies who are willing to support them whilst they test and build up their portfolios.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
Another AOFM make up artist with a fabulous tattoo.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

After our chat Jana and Jason lead us to their stunning top floor where we were able to enjoy the new pot plants on the balcony far above the bustle of Soho, whilst nibbling on tasty goodies and having our make up done professionally (though a bad idea at the same time, as I discovered) as their two delightful chihuahuas Lily and Lula raced around our feet in an attempt to feed off the canape scraps. Although Jana is keen to add to the chihuahua pack it doesn’t sound like this will be happening any time soon, what with the new concession opening in New York and exciting plans for an even bigger project which I am absolutely not allowed to mention. Watch this space folks…

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
CHIHUAHUAS!

Categories ,AOFM, ,Chihuahua, ,Dean Street, ,Forward PR, ,Jana Ririnui, ,Jason Mallet, ,Jenny Robins, ,Lauren, ,Lauren Amps, ,Make Up is Art, ,new york, ,Soho, ,Studios, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vogue, ,X Factor, ,YesGo!

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing AOFM: the Academy of Freelance Make Up

AOFM by YesGo!
AOFM by YesGo!

AOFM or the Academy of Freelance Make Up (artists) is the brainchild of New Zealander Jana Ririnui and Englishman Jason Mallet, who met, like, mere months before they started up in business together – Jason bringing the business nous and Jana the creative spark. I’ve already had a chance to peruse their gorgeous coffee table book Make Up is Art at the Forward PR press day, and last week I had a chance to actually take a look around their Soho studios and learn a bit more about what AOFM does.

AOFM-Jana and Jason
AOFM’s Jana and Jason. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Gathered in one of their airy studios on Dean Street the pair explained to us how they give students the opportunity to work in a real fashion environment backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at LFW. AOFM was set up because Jana was frustrated that fellow make up artists weren’t being trained in the realities of working in the fast paced and often brutal fashion world, so it’s a place where not only do you get a brilliant make up artist training but also real hands on experience of working in the industry.

AOFM Jana and Jason by Jenny Robins
Jana and Jason with their chihuahuas. By Jenny Robins.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

Despite having been going for under five years AOFM has already garnered huge acclaim and is all set to open up their New York wing this May. In that time Jana’s students have done everything “from X Factor to Italian Vogue” so they are highly rated in the industry, and Lauren Amps (who did my make up again) won make up artist of the year only two years after she left the college.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
Lauren Amps at work. Yes, there is make up in those drawers, there’s a reason why she’s on the floor!

Students are given a realistic view of what to expect if they work in the industry, which Jana says weeds a great deal of them out straight away because they simply aren’t willing to put the hard graft in to get where they want. There is a generation coming up now who expect things to fall into their lap, something I have noticed as well… the me me me middle class generation who’ve never experienced any hardships and are somewhat flummoxed by the cruel workings of the real world. Some students arrive with false expectations of what AOFM can do for them, but if they can’t “do a good smokey eye and a red lip” then they won’t be recommended for shows. I do love a strong look and the classic smokey eyes and red lips are clearly a crucial basis for many other looks.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory bespoke make up brush set
AOFM bespoke make up brush set.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Make Up is Art
The AOFM bible: Make Up is Art. An inspiring collection of ideas intended for both professionals and beginners.

According to AOFM it usually takes about five years to get an agent, something which can be much quicker depending on a make up artist’s financial position. The sad truth is that like so many jobs it really does depend on whether you are secure, and in the case of make up artists it sounds like lots of people have hubbies who are willing to support them whilst they test and build up their portfolios.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
Another AOFM make up artist with a fabulous tattoo.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

After our chat Jana and Jason lead us to their stunning top floor where we were able to enjoy the new pot plants on the balcony far above the bustle of Soho, whilst nibbling on tasty goodies and having our make up done professionally (though a bad idea at the same time, as I discovered) as their two delightful chihuahuas Lily and Lula raced around our feet in an attempt to feed off the canape scraps. Although Jana is keen to add to the chihuahua pack it doesn’t sound like this will be happening any time soon, what with the new concession opening in New York and exciting plans for an even bigger project which I am absolutely not allowed to mention. Watch this space folks…

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
CHIHUAHUAS!

Categories ,AOFM, ,Chihuahua, ,Dean Street, ,Forward PR, ,Jana Ririnui, ,Jason Mallet, ,Jenny Robins, ,Lauren, ,Lauren Amps, ,Make Up is Art, ,new york, ,Soho, ,Studios, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vogue, ,X Factor, ,YesGo!

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Film: Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel


Diana Vreeland by Maya Beus

‘When we think about an iconic person, an editor; we always say Diana Vreeland’. A pretty bold opening statement launches this fashion film, but by the end it’s impossible not to agree.

Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel is the latest in a series of fashumentaries that I’m obsessed with (I’m pretty sure I haven’t coined fashumentaries myself, but it’s the best I could come up with at 11pm last night) . Halston’s Ultrasuede, Valentino’s The Last Emperor; a rare glimpse into the fantasy world of fashion through the stories of those who lived it.

This particular film documents the life and times of Diana Vreeland, from her first glimpses of fashion growing up during La Belle Epoque to her revolutionary efforts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. The movie is fused together with transcripts of conversations between Vreeland and George Plimpton, her biographer, retold by actors who’ve captured Vreeland’s dulcet vocals perfectly.


Diana Vreeland

Vreeland states that her greatest asset was ‘arranging to be born in Paris’. Legendaries like Diaghilev popped in for tea and Vreeland spent summers in the Rocky Mountains with Buffalo Bill. At times you wonder if she’s making it up. Peppered amongst archive footage of various world-changing events are Vreeland’s rare on-tape interviews with a number of American interviewers. Her wide-eyed responses are captivating, as is her innate and often wicked sense of humour in a language that isn’t her first. ‘Diana, where you always pleased with the way you looked?’ asks one. ‘Good God, NO!’ she recalls in horror, ‘You can’t go around like a smug mademoiselle from about seven years up, mmm mmm’. Vreeland explicitly states that she was never comfortable with her looks until she met Reed Vreeland, a New York banker. It was ‘love at first sight’, she tells us, whilst later admitting that even afer 46 years, she still felt shy around him. ‘Don’t all women feel shy around men?’ she asks, coyly.


Harper’s Bazaar 1965 by Shy Illustrations

A difficult childhood provided the impetus to climb the fashion ladder. The ‘ugly duckling’ of the family, she describes her mother as a ‘wild woman’ and her father as ‘an Englishman – there was little visible emotion.’ Her first passion was, in fact, dancing, but it was to be her ‘roaring twenties’ and an acute, unashamed desire for popularity that would build the character we’re familiar with.

‘The best thing about London is… Paris!’ Diana declares as we’re thrusted into her teenage years. Here we enjoy archive clips of classic Chanel collections and clips of those notorious stairs. But it was a lingerie shop in London that would decide her fate. After a fitting with Wallace Simpson, she later discovered that the homewreckin’ harlot was off for a dirty weekend with the current King Edward VIII at the beginning of their love affair. In essence, it was Vreeland’s lingerie shop that ‘brought down the monarchy’.

These dramatic events provide a basis for the film’s synopsis. From Lindbergh flying over her and her son on his maiden voyage across the Atlantic, to Vreeland’s shocking publication a bikini fashion story, the first to do so; to discovering Lauren Bacall, putting her on the cover and introducing her to Hollywood and the world.


1970s Harper’s Bazaar by Amyisla McCombie

One evening Vreeland met Carmel Snow, then editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, at a dance. Snow approached Vreeland to compliment her on her dress – ‘Chanel, of COURSE’. The two struck up a friendship and Snow demanded she joined the Harper’s team. A simple invitation – ‘Why don’t you work for Harper’s?’ turned into the infamous ‘Why Don’t You‘ column. So here’s Vreeland, in an age of austerity not dissimilar to the slump we’re currently in, advocating that you wash your daughter’s hair in Champagne to keep it golden, or ‘Why Don’t You… wear violet velvet mittens, with EVERYTHING?’ It was an absurd, frivolous column but one that captivated readers and provided fantasy and escapism – key commitments that would be the themes Diana stuck to for the rest of her illustrious career.


Twiggy by Simon Myers

The film is flooded with the key events that punctuated Vreeland’s career at Harper’s, particuarly her obsession with British street culture and the Swinging Sixties. Speaking about Twiggy, she exclaims, ‘such a face, such a girl, such a WOW!’ The Beatles fueled Diana’s love for contemporary music, and when British Vogue dismissed a photograph offered by David Bailey of Mick Jagger for being a ‘nobody’, it was Diana who published it in Harper’s. ‘Those LIPS!’ she squeals. Vreeland had a reputation for highlighting unusual features and celebrating beauty in an alternative way – she shot Barbra Streisand in profile; focussed on long legs and necks; made the gaps in models’ teeth into a feature rather than something to be hidden away.

Vox pops come from the great and good of fashion – designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, Hubert de Givenchy and Calvin Klein; photographers Richard Avedon, David Bailey, Lillian Bassman, magazine publishing mogul John Fairchild; models China Machado, Penelope Tree and Lauren Hutton and one of my favourite actresses, Anjelica Huston. They all talk of the innate skill and awareness that nobody, in fashion at that time, rivalled. A fashion story might be shot six times, and even when Vreeland declared she adored a set of pictures, she might still reshoot for some frustrating reason – ‘no languor in the lips’. ‘I wanted to strangle her,’ declares Penelope Tree.

Towards the end, the film explores the sadness of Vreeland’s dismissal from Vogue before bouncing back with her work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art‘s Costume Institute. Vreeland ‘got the people through the door’ with blockbuster fashion showcases of Balenciaga, Russian costume and Yves Saint Laurent, paving the way for fashion exhibitions as we know them.


Diana Vreeland by Maya Beus

This is a beautifully made film with archive clips that will have fashion fans squealing, alongside humour, wit and poignancy. It’s a fitting tribute to a fashion legend.

To celebrate the launch of Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travelon DVD, we’ve got 5 posters signed by Diana’s director granddaughter, Lisa Immordino Vreeland to give away – head over to our Facebook page for more details!

Categories ,chanel, ,David Bailey, ,Diana Vreeland, ,DVD, ,fashion, ,film, ,Harper’s Bazaar, ,Matt Bramford, ,Maya Beus, ,new york, ,paris, ,review, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Simon Myers, ,The Eye Has to Travel

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Agata Koschmeider

Agata Koschmieder_by_ Alison Day
Agata Koschmieder by Alison Day.

The Agata Koschmeider show inexplicably opened with a picture of the famous Flatiron building in New York before heading into a full on soundtrack of old fashioned French musical hall tunes. Models wore knitted skull caps and dark round glasses with bright red lipstick. Colouring was kept simple: cream, clinic black, health bright yellow and one final red dress. Once more there was a huge variety of shapes and styles with no discernible connection: sequinned maxi skirts, viagra buy ruched over long sleeves, capelets, asymmetric and cut out panels, a play suit, peplums, raggy oversize knits, and sheer skirts with slits. And so completes my Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 show reports. Yay!

Agata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryAgata Koschmieder ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Agata Koschmieder A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Agata Koschmeider, ,Alison Day, ,commercial, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Flatiron, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,new york

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