Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear Accessories.

Anna Schwamborn by Lorna Scobie
Anna Schwamborn by Lorna Scobie.

A couple of the collections on the catwalk at the RCA graduate show focused on accessories, medications namely millinery and bags.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Alexandra Gold photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Alexandra Gold photography by Amelia Gregory
Alexandra Gold opted to make the most of that pesky fur sponsorship, creating a series of oversized baseball caps, some of which were adorned with fur. Which just leaves me with the overwhelming question: WHY?

Paul Stafford by Lorna Scobie
Paul Stafford by Lorna Scobie.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia Gregory

Paul Stafford did something far more interesting with oversized brims that loomed over the eyes. Some appeared to be part of a garment, fabric draped over the top of the hat then flowing down the body and belted in at the waist. Totally unwearable on an every day basis but nonetheless beautiful.

Anna Shwamborn by Sandra ContrerasAnna Shwamborn by Sandra Contreras
Anna Shwamborn by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia Gregory
Anna Schwamborn presented an unusual bag collection that included some interesting tooled leather and ruffled collars and hand cuffs. Horned straps held capacious bags across the body. She has a website!

All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexandra Gold, ,Anna Schwamborn, ,Bags, ,Fur, ,Graduate fashion shows, ,hats, ,horns, ,Lorna Scobie, ,millinery, ,Paul Stafford, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mich Dulce launches her new Saints and Sinners S/S 2012 hat collection at No-One

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce S/S 2012 Saints and Sinners. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Last night I went to the launch of Mich Dulce‘s new hat collection, side effects Saints and Sinners, which was held at No-One in Shoreditch.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce has trained long and hard in the art of millinery, with stints at Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion and at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. She has also been apprenticed to designers Marjan Pejoski and Jessica Ogden but more recently she has branched out on her own, receiving accolades as the winner of the International Creative Fashion Entrepreneur in 2010 at LFW.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Her beautiful creations have been worn by Anna Dello Russo and Adam Ant also sports her designs on his current tour. In fact, Adam Ant was at the launch, looking relatively normal apart from fantastic multicoloured nails and many jewelled fingers (unfortunately not visible in this photo).

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce‘s new collection features amazing curvaceous designs in spiralled, budding, winged, rosette shapes. Options are available in elegant greys and blacks or vibrant yellow and pink, some with netting or on headbands, all of which guests were encouraged to try on.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory
Her gorgeous hats are highly desirable but that’s not all that makes Mich Dulce special: coming from the Philippines she has made it her mission to celebrate traditional Filipino crafts through her choice of materials. All the hats are handmade from T’nalck, which is woven with abaca fibre by the women of the T’Boli peoples of Lake Sebu in South Cotobato in the Philippines. The craft is an essential part of their heritage which Mich is proud to support and promote to a wider international audience. The final headpieces are also ethically made by the Gawad Kalinga Community Development Foundation, with all craftspeople personally trained by Mich.

Mich Dulce SS 2012 hat launch 2011-Saints and Sinners photo by Amelia Gregory Rob Lucas and Adam Ant
Rob Lucas and Adam Ant.

It was great to finally meet Mich since we’ve been conversing on twitter for some time. I also spent a long time chatting to a very interesting chap called Rob Lucas, who works as a antique arms and military specialist for Bonhams and in his spare time creates revolutionary inspired menswear for his Pimpernel label. Next year Rob is launching a brand new military inspired label with Adam Ant: Blueblack Hussar, and Mich Dulce will be designing the headwear. I can’t wait!

Also check out Mich Dulce’s own blog about the event… featuring myself with bike!

Categories ,2010, ,Adam Ant, ,Anna Dello Russo, ,Antique Arms and Militaria, ,Blueblack Hussar, ,Bonhams, ,Central Saint Martins, ,craft, ,ethical, ,Fashion Institute of Technology, ,Filipino, ,Gawad Kalinga Community Development Foundation, ,handmade, ,hats, ,International Creative Fashion Entrepreneur, ,Jessica Ogden, ,Lake Sebu, ,London College of Fashion, ,Marjan Pejoski, ,Mich Dulce, ,military, ,millinery, ,new york, ,No-One, ,Philippines, ,Pimpernel, ,Revolutionary, ,Rob Lucas, ,shoreditch, ,South Cotabato, ,T’Boli, ,T’nalck, ,Woven

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Amelia’s Magazine | Modular Millinery

In case you missed it, healing visit web everyones favourite nostalgic treat – Cadbury’s Dairy Milk – is moving with the times and going Fairtrade. Last week, cost Cadbury’s announced that from the end of Summer 2009, nurse it will receive Fairtrade certification, a move which will triple the amount of Fairtrade cocoa sold in Ghana (where Cadbury sources its cacao beans). Cadbury’s believes that this will also open up new opportunities for farmers to benefit from the Fairtrade system. It is a worthy – and savvy- move for a food item which, at least in my mind, is so rooted in the past. In recent years the general public have moved away from the old-school confectionaries and embraced the more ethically produced chocolates; Green and Blacks, Fairtrade’s own Divine chocolate to name a few. While Dairy Milk always maintained a strong foothold in the market – with 300 million bars sold annually in Britain and Ireland – Cadbury’s clearly see that the current zeitgeist is ethical, ethical, ethical and wants a piece of this pie too.

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Am I a dissenting voice here? Is it bad form to rise a cynical eyebrow over what appears to be a good deed? At the end of the day, whether this is a PR exercise or not becomes irrelevant because there are thousands of farmers who will be better off regardless of Cadbury’s motivations. Still, while the response has been generally warm, some issues have been raised. The publics general idea of a Fairtrade business is a co-operation or small business – which Cadbury certainly is not. And while we would be forgiven for thinking that when an food item is bestowed the coveted Fairtrade status, it must be 100% Fairtrade. Not quite. Especially when it comes to something with as many ingredients as a choccie bar.

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The key components of a humble square of chocolate are cocoa beans, sugar and milk. So the cacao is covered, what about the other ingredients? Wanting to do a bit of journalistic digging, I went onto Cadbury’s blog and was reassured to see that the general public remain an inquisitive and suspicious bunch. There were enough people asking about the origins of the other ingredients to warrant a response from Cadbury’s PR in the form of a written explanation and a live web Q+A. So here’s facts. The sugar is also Fairtrade certified, but the milk is not. The milk comes from British farmers, who Cadbury’s are keen to continue a relationship with. So there is a little bit of a percentage issue arising here. Barbara Crowther from Fairtrade defended this slightly tricky situation, saying

“For ingredients like cocoa and sugar which primarily grow in developing countries, our rules say that anything that can be Fairtrade, should be – 100%. Also, if a product (like chocolate or cakes) has lots of different ingredients, there must be at least one that makes up 20% of the product. Ideally, the total combination should be 50% or more (this isn’t always possible if only one ingredient can be Fairtrade. Otherwise we agree, there’s not enough Fairtrade content there to justify the FAIRTRADE Mark.”

So there you have it; some might say that Cadbury have slipped through the net with this one. The concept of what constitutes a product being Fairtrade was always fixed in my mind; perhaps I need to adapt my pre-conceived notions a touch. Still, once it gets its certification, I look forward to picking up a Dairy Milk for old times sake.
If the thought of leaving zone one gives you a nose bleed, sick it’s time to get out of your comfort zone as I profile my favourite galleries that are just that bit out of the way.

South East.
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Illustrations part of a project by Thomas Ronson

Living in New Cross since the closure of the East London line I know that South East London isn’t the most easily accessible place. The great thing is however, viagra sale once you’ve made the journey there’s so much to see. I’ve heard the term ‘the new Shoreditch’ a few times in relation to New Cross recently and while this isn’t a label I particularly care for, pills there is a definite buzz in the area at the moment.

Art collectives such as The Sunday Painter, LuckyPDF and Friendly Street Gallery all have artist-run spaces in the Camberwell/Deptford area. Off Modern also have a monthly installment of art and music at Corsica Studios. These are all really new projects so they’re worth going to in order to get an exciting first look into still developing gallery spaces. These venues fit in nicely with long running galleries such as APT in Deptford. The next Apt show takes place 19th March – 5th April and is a group show of six artists with works in ceramics, paper and in print.

aptgallery.jpg

Bargain hunters check out Deptford market, which is just by the station, on the way. It’s on pretty much everyday of the week and the stuff ranges from the fantastic, antique furniture for under a tenner, to the downright disgusting, an Amelia’s intern once spotted half a tube of foot cream for sale!

North East.
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Ok so Hoxton is hardly out of the way, but to get to Limoncello you need to head away from the White Cube and the vintage shops and up Hoxton Sreet towards Greggs bakers and Peacocks. Although the space is only small Limoncello has 11 diverse artists that usually have a month long show each a year. The next artist to show is Jack Strange, if ever an artist was named for greatness it was him. The exhibition opens Friday 27th March and will no doubt have the same charm and wit as his previous offerings.

Once you’re done at Limoncello head over to 17 Kingsland Rd to the slightly less imaginatively named SEVENTEEN. As you enter the gallery you’re first faced with the standard white cube, but to get downstairs one has to pass not only the gallery ‘office’, but also the staff kitchen. Something really excites me about the transparency of the gallery allowing you to see all the bits they usually keep hidden. Downstairs they’ve completely dispensed with the usual modernist aesthetic of – ahhh keep out the rest of the real world lest it contaminate the art! It’s dark and dingy and it’s usually where they show the videos, which you can sit and watch on chairs that look like they’ve been picked up from the side of the road. The next show opens on 18th March; the artists Mike Harte and Jamie Shovlin will be occupying the basement of the gallery for seven evenings leading up to the exhibition. Every night they will drink a different branded bottle of Bourbon and, using the Bourbon as their medium, create a single painting of the word joy.

I once went to see a friend’s band in Leytonstone before I moved to London. Such was the fear induced in me from walking those streets in the early hours of the morning, that I made an unofficial pact with myself never to go further North on the Central line than Liverpool Street. Despite being between Liverpool Street and Leytonstone, Mile End is a surprisingly nice setting for Matt’s Gallery. Walking through the park to get there I could completely imagine taking a picnic and refuelling on peanut butter sandwiches before seeing some art. After arriving at the gallery the advantages to being further out of central London are immediately obvious. For an artist-run space it’s huge. Being that bit further out means that rent is much cheaper, because it’s not as high in demand and exhibition space can be much bigger.

Their current show is It has to be this way. by Lindsay Seers, who currently has one of the best pieces in the Altermodern exhibition on at Tate Modern at the moment. Seers uses as material for her art personal narratives that are so insane you’re never really sure whether it’s the truth. “These narratives are punctuated by incredible plot devices – stalkings, burglaries, shipwrecks – that mimic the rupture at the heart of image production, creating a dramatisation of selfhood in all its melancholy and failure.” This body of work centres on the artists stepsister Christine who had an accident that left her with severe memory loss in 2001 before then going missing in 2005.

South West.
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Studio Voltaire boasts that it’s the first and only artist-led gallery and studio complex in South West London. This is a bit annoying because it means there are no other galleries to look at in the area, but they do get big enough artists showing there to make it worth the trip. The next artist to exhibit is the rather newly famous figure of Cathy Wilkes. For a chance to check out the work of a Turner Prize nominated artist in a more intimate setting make your way to Clapham between 11th April and 24th May.

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She gives me the shivers. She hasn’t even got an album out yet, pills and already we know she’ll be huge. Florence Welch, drugs a.k.a Florence and the Machine has stormed onto the scene and is set for a fantastic year.

florence_01.jpg

It was her cover of Cold War Kids “Hospital Beds” that first drew me in whilst surfing music blogs. I love the song anyway, dosage but hearing her distressed, soulful wail refreshes my appreciation anew.

Yet covers aren’t all she’s good at, she can write too. Her lyrics are a self-professed fairy tale, not wanting to be too realistic as she says the song-writing of Kate Nash and Lily Allen makes her feel too exposed. Her first single Kiss with a Fist was assumed by critics to be about domestic violence, all slapping and hitting and smashing. But Welch defends her choice of vocabulary by saying “if you’re a writer, you’re just expressing your perception of what’s going on.”

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What else is great about Florence, is that it seems she has many different personas without ever leaving any of the behind. On The Girl with One Eye her sultry snarl is reminiscent of Cat Power, yet the high pitched shimmer on Postcards from Italy reflect a bit of Kate Bush. But to compare Welch to any of these should not attempt to take away from her own voice. The girl has a pair of lungs on her that could stir up a hurricane, but she never overdoes it. She can switch automatically from a soft whisper to a powerful bellow.

The songs we’ve heard so far remind you of the happiest but the saddest day of your life all in one go. A summers day with pour of rain, but in the end leaving a teary smile on your face. She’s one to watch this year for sure.

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justinsmith1-5.jpg

The Autumn/Winter ’09 catwalk circuit is coming to a close as editors and buyers steer their weary heels back to the comforts of their own cities to convene, sildenafil consider and begin the distillation of this fall’s hottest runway looks. Designers are taking a heaving breath before diving under another (hopeful) tidal wave of production orders. Milliner J. Smith Esquire is hard at work right now making toppings for the têtes of ladies flanking both sides of the UK and well beyond. His spring collection Kaleidoscope is a cluster of delicate net headpieces that are completely interchangeable and utterly beguiling.

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While creative director at Toni & Guy, buy more about J. Smith Esquire (how regal!) began exploring an understandably tangential interest in millinery. Several awards, drug including an i-D styling award and an MA in millinery from Royal College of Art, this multi talent is now showing his fourth independent collection, inspired by the myriad possibilities of a kaleidoscope. What girl doesn’t love options?! Some of the intricate orbs and bows have managed to capture their own little objects and others allow you the temporary frivolity of glossy spherical pigtails.

Categories ,Hats, ,Justin, ,Millinery, ,Smith

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Exhibition Review: Headonism

Frieze showcases a collection of pastel coloured trenches at London Fashion Week off schedule at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

Illustration of Piers Atkinson by Kellie Black

The Headonism exhibition is hidden in the Embankment Galleries on the lower ground floor of Somerset house, order behind the BFC tent. I’ve been down there twice, once on Thursday and once yesterday – and both times it seemed very under attended. Actually, all the exhibitions around the scrum of the registration area seem very quiet but they are all well worth a look, even if it is just to take a closer look at some of the collections as I did upstairs for Louise Amstrup.

Curated by milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones, the Headonism exhibition is all about the hats and is the only section of London Fashion Week exclusively catering to the headwear market. There are only five exhibitors: J Smith, Little Shilpa, Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Soren Bach, but the difference between the stands is remarkable. Disappointingly, the Soren Bach stand has no one looking after it, nor does Little Shilpa – merely a book to leave details in.

The only exhibitor to have put any real effort into their display is Piers Atkinson…but more on him later. The importance of showcasing your wares appropriately at London Fashion Week is shockingly something that many have left to the last minute. Read Katie Antoniou’s post on all the exhibitions to find out who did it well this year.

Illustration of J Smith Esquire by Kellie Black

We were lucky enough to interview two of the exhibitors prior to the show, the first was J Smith Esquire. His exhibit is immediately to your right as you enter the exhibition, displaying his most recent foray into the high street market with a Mister Smith display of flat pack hats in colourful cut out leather. He told us about the collection: ‘Mister Smith is designed to be robust, accessible, affordable millinery with high design values, so everyone can have a J Smith Esquire hat’.

Photograph from Mister Smith collection by Florence Massey

Mixing together the ready-to-wear and couture, J Smiths talent shines with his main collections, the most recent entitled ‘Illuminated’ is sure to be as highly impressive as his previous efforts. The new collection promises to be VERY eclectic, ‘(it’s) inspired by vintage Italian fashion papers to create a modern-day Edwardian couture, and yes, expect a very colourful collection!’

Illustration of Little Shilpa by Yelena Bryksenkova

Little Shilpa’s stand is on each side as you exit the exhibition space, and displays an array of great headpieces, necklaces and hats. His work is crazy, but in a good way. The designs are definitely not for the wallflowers among us, something crystalised by his naming Bjork as a dream customer!

With an Indian heritage it is unsurprising to hear that the inspiration for his Headonism show picks up on this , ‘the pieces were inspired from Bombay and London, there was an obvious juxtaposition of the 2 cities …all the pieces were specially created for Headonism as it was my first formal showing in London hence a sort of introduction to my inspirations’.

Photograph of J Shilpa by Florence Massey

Little Shilpa agrees with Piers Atkinson’s very true comment that millinery has finally become more about having fun rather than the obligatory weddings and funerals, ‘working out of India it has always been about fun and design’. Long may that continue!

Talking of Piers Atkinson and the move away from wedding/funeral hats his stand is fantastic. More of an exploded flower stall mixed with Hollywood clichés and mini people, I spent a-g-e-s peering at every single one of his creations. With lots of green felt, and miniature people Atkinson definitely taps into the fun side of millinery and his collection is so good: silly, energetic and vibrant. Spilling with colours and quirks, the Hollywood sign features heavily, as do clashing flowers and little gold spikes. If you want a break from the oh so serious fashion upstairs at BFC, pop down to Atkinson’s stand for a giggle.

Illustration of Piers Atkinson by Kellie Black

Photograph of Piers Atkinson by Florence Massey

Categories ,british fashion council, ,couture, ,Embankment Galleries, ,exhibition, ,fashion, ,hats, ,Headonism, ,headpieces, ,J Smith Esquire, ,Kellie Black, ,Little Shilpa, ,London Fashion Week, ,millinery, ,mister smith, ,piers atkinson, ,review, ,Somerset House, ,Stephen Jones, ,Yelena, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Exhibition Review

On any average, hospital non LFW weekend, pilule you might find me at one of London’s plethora of craft fairs, sales vintage markets or fetes, and what I’m always really impressed by is how wonderfully sellers exhibit their wares. Running a handmade products company myself, I know how testing it can be lugging a dollshouse across town in order to sell handmade stationery from its little rooms;but I’m always convinced its worth it when buyers comment on how much they like the stall set up. So I was surprised and decidedly disappointed to see that many of the exhibitors in Somerset House made little effort to do more than lay their goods out on a table. When buyers and journalists are looking at tens of jewellery sellers in one location on one day, exhibitors really need to do everything they can to make their stall stand out. As creative, inventive individuals, you’d imagine they’d jump at the chance to decorate their own little space, but many simply hung their clothes or spread their pieces out on a surface. So I’m dedicating this post to those who really made an effort, creating settings that reflected their work and really caught my eye. Presentation is no less important on a stall than it is on a catwalk!

Bark jewellery had a traditional British feel,designed by Miwako Yoshioka ; incorporating vintage sheet music and old mannequins in her display.

Comfort Station also excelled themselves with their delicate necklaces exhibited on antique books assembled on the wall.


Illustration by Rachel de ste Croix

Jacey Withers‘ collection channeled a sort of nautical highway woman; using treasure boxes and other props to present necklaces bearing intricate pirate’s chests, stingrays, shells and rifles.


Illustration by Rachel de ste Croix

In the Hedonism room curated by Stephen Jones, hats like Mister Smith’s were beautiful, but none so elaborately displayed as Piers Atkinson’s hat ‘garden’ with wonderful floral headpieces, novelty fascinators and some less ostentatious veiled hats with beautiful embroidery.

Zoe and Morgan had an amazing set up; their walls lined with mugshots of ‘criminals’ wearing their jewellery. Instead of using models they’d used friends of theirs and even invited you to have your won mugshot taken- here I am! Full points for effort and ingenuity.

Categories ,bark, ,comfort station, ,hats, ,jacey withers, ,jewellery, ,lfw, ,millinery, ,mister smith, ,piers atkinson, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,zoe and morgan

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Piers Atkinson


Illustration by Krister Selin

Christopher Shannon burst back on to the catwalk on Menswear Day at London Fashion Week in typical chav-luxe fashion. Menswear day was a bit hot and cold this season – some of the shows were extremely busy, information pills but when I arrived at Christopher Shannon’s there didn’t seem to be that many attendees, no rx so I plonked myself on the front row and fiddled with my iPhone in a bid to look belonging and important. I even adjusted my crumbling posture (which is hella difficult after the cruel strains of back-to-back slumping at shows).


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

The show soon filled up, viagra sale mind, and I was squashed along the frankly miserable BFC benches. Shannon’s infamous taste in music with which I wholeheartedly side (Rihanna’s What’s My Name and Te Amo being this season’s choice tunes) began the show, and out popped the street-cast models we’re familiar with. Some of them look terrified, some achingly nonchalant, but all are suited to Shannon’s unique take on menswear.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A mix of jersey sweatshirts, scarves and oversized rucksacks started the show – each with a Shannon twist. Shirts were cut through the middle to mix up the patterns – this time with a more ‘worldly’ influence. His obsession with sportswear derives from the fact that wherever you go, ‘there’s always sportswear’ – too true – and Shannon has drawn upon the variations of sportswear in different cultures for this ‘Hold Yer Head Up’ collection.


Illustration by Oscar Rubio

Bolder prints – abstract forms that have a more biological feel (influenced by his affection for David Attenborough!) make up the body of designs. Later came shirts separated down the middle in varying ways – sometimes texture, sometimes colour. Some shirts had woven-blanket details with different kitsch embellishments – a surprising move but a welcome one nonetheless.

Shannon’s clean nylons were spiced up with some frou-frou details this season – I wouldn’t be seen dead in any of this (mostly because my friends would snort, point and laugh) but I think the aesthetic of it is just fabulous. The lights, imposing over the catwalk, bounced in between each ruffle to give a shiny, futuristic look. A colour palette of navy blue, black, grey came with splashes of colour from the woven elements and bits of baby pink to remind us that this is still sportswear. Flat caps and flashy vibrant trainers complimented each outfit.


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Much preferred the Eastpak collaboration rucksacks this time – again, the woven blanket details showed up and looked ace.

But, in spite of all this, I’ll forever remember Christopher Shannon’s A/W 2011 outing for those incredible Frank Sidebottom-esque hair-dos and embellished eyebrows. Why, you might ask? Because this is FASHION, darling.

See more of Krister Selin and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

On Saturday 19th February I wandered down a rainy Frith Street to see milliner Piers Atkinson’s A/W 2011 collection.

Atkinson has an interesting background having originally studied graphic design, viagra before becoming involved with millinery he worked in PR for Zandra Rhodes, Mandi Lennard and Blow. He then became fashion editor at Disorder magazine before establishing The Daily for London Fashion Week. To ‘let off steam’ during this time he produced a small series of hats that would become his debut collection.


Illustrations by Joana Faria

Presented in Franny’s Pop Up Gallery opposite Ronnie Scott’s, the restaurant venue didn’t really give an indication of what would be on display, but Frith Street (just off Old Compton Street) was the ideal location given the themes in the collection.


Illustrations by Karolina Burdon

Atkinson drew on 1930s Paris for inspiration for Autumn Winter 2010, taking his cues from cabaret, bygone opium dens, drag queens, showgirls and back alley romance.  Familiar base shapes in a palette of navy, aubergine, black and gold were adorned with eccentric oversized fruits, giant pom poms, glitter and ostrich feathers. The range of avant-garde pieces would make Lady Gaga proud; she is already one of Atkinson’s high profile fans having worn a piece constructed from telephone components.


Illustrations by Ankolie

Also on display were photographs of Atkinson’s infamous acquaintances along with some of his lesser-known friends.  Mostly shot in Dalston back streets after dark, they could just as easily have been taken in 1930s Paris.

Obviously hard-to-miss were the eye-catching berets topped with neon lights, while classic shapes in suede were punctuated with gold plated studs. Veils were accented with diamantes… and glittering aubergines with 24 carat gold leaf. ‘Les Fruits de la Nuit’ featuring ‘hyper cherries’ and Atkinson’s signature lips embroidered on a tulle veil was a real winner, too!

More hyper cherries, this time in 24 carat gold leaf:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

‘L’Heroine’ with fab ‘chinchilla coque feather overdose’:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Unfortunately I couldn’t make it to the party in the evening, but apparently whilst guests watched a performance by Anna Piaggi, two of the hats were stolen, but luckily for Piers and his team they were returned just as promptly as they disappeared.

See more of Joana Faria and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,1930s, ,A/W 2011, ,Ankolie, ,Blow, ,Cabaret, ,Cherries, ,dalston, ,Diamante, ,Disorder Magazine, ,Drag Queens, ,Frannie’s Pop Up Gallery, ,hats, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mandi Leonard, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,millinery, ,Naomi Law, ,Opium Dens, ,paris, ,piers atkinson, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Piers Atkinson


Illustration by Krister Selin

Christopher Shannon burst back on to the catwalk on Menswear Day at London Fashion Week in typical chav-luxe fashion. Menswear day was a bit hot and cold this season – some of the shows were extremely busy, information pills but when I arrived at Christopher Shannon’s there didn’t seem to be that many attendees, no rx so I plonked myself on the front row and fiddled with my iPhone in a bid to look belonging and important. I even adjusted my crumbling posture (which is hella difficult after the cruel strains of back-to-back slumping at shows).


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

The show soon filled up, viagra sale mind, and I was squashed along the frankly miserable BFC benches. Shannon’s infamous taste in music with which I wholeheartedly side (Rihanna’s What’s My Name and Te Amo being this season’s choice tunes) began the show, and out popped the street-cast models we’re familiar with. Some of them look terrified, some achingly nonchalant, but all are suited to Shannon’s unique take on menswear.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A mix of jersey sweatshirts, scarves and oversized rucksacks started the show – each with a Shannon twist. Shirts were cut through the middle to mix up the patterns – this time with a more ‘worldly’ influence. His obsession with sportswear derives from the fact that wherever you go, ‘there’s always sportswear’ – too true – and Shannon has drawn upon the variations of sportswear in different cultures for this ‘Hold Yer Head Up’ collection.


Illustration by Oscar Rubio

Bolder prints – abstract forms that have a more biological feel (influenced by his affection for David Attenborough!) make up the body of designs. Later came shirts separated down the middle in varying ways – sometimes texture, sometimes colour. Some shirts had woven-blanket details with different kitsch embellishments – a surprising move but a welcome one nonetheless.

Shannon’s clean nylons were spiced up with some frou-frou details this season – I wouldn’t be seen dead in any of this (mostly because my friends would snort, point and laugh) but I think the aesthetic of it is just fabulous. The lights, imposing over the catwalk, bounced in between each ruffle to give a shiny, futuristic look. A colour palette of navy blue, black, grey came with splashes of colour from the woven elements and bits of baby pink to remind us that this is still sportswear. Flat caps and flashy vibrant trainers complimented each outfit.


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Much preferred the Eastpak collaboration rucksacks this time – again, the woven blanket details showed up and looked ace.

But, in spite of all this, I’ll forever remember Christopher Shannon’s A/W 2011 outing for those incredible Frank Sidebottom-esque hair-dos and embellished eyebrows. Why, you might ask? Because this is FASHION, darling.

See more of Krister Selin and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

On Saturday 19th February I wandered down a rainy Frith Street to see milliner Piers Atkinson’s A/W 2011 collection.

Atkinson has an interesting background having originally studied graphic design, viagra before becoming involved with millinery he worked in PR for Zandra Rhodes, Mandi Lennard and Blow. He then became fashion editor at Disorder magazine before establishing The Daily for London Fashion Week. To ‘let off steam’ during this time he produced a small series of hats that would become his debut collection.


Illustrations by Joana Faria

Presented in Franny’s Pop Up Gallery opposite Ronnie Scott’s, the restaurant venue didn’t really give an indication of what would be on display, but Frith Street (just off Old Compton Street) was the ideal location given the themes in the collection.


Illustrations by Karolina Burdon

Atkinson drew on 1930s Paris for inspiration for Autumn Winter 2010, taking his cues from cabaret, bygone opium dens, drag queens, showgirls and back alley romance.  Familiar base shapes in a palette of navy, aubergine, black and gold were adorned with eccentric oversized fruits, giant pom poms, glitter and ostrich feathers. The range of avant-garde pieces would make Lady Gaga proud; she is already one of Atkinson’s high profile fans having worn a piece constructed from telephone components.


Illustrations by Ankolie

Also on display were photographs of Atkinson’s infamous acquaintances along with some of his lesser-known friends.  Mostly shot in Dalston back streets after dark, they could just as easily have been taken in 1930s Paris.

Obviously hard-to-miss were the eye-catching berets topped with neon lights, while classic shapes in suede were punctuated with gold plated studs. Veils were accented with diamantes… and glittering aubergines with 24 carat gold leaf. ‘Les Fruits de la Nuit’ featuring ‘hyper cherries’ and Atkinson’s signature lips embroidered on a tulle veil was a real winner, too!

More hyper cherries, this time in 24 carat gold leaf:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

‘L’Heroine’ with fab ‘chinchilla coque feather overdose’:

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Unfortunately I couldn’t make it to the party in the evening, but apparently whilst guests watched a performance by Anna Piaggi, two of the hats were stolen, but luckily for Piers and his team they were returned just as promptly as they disappeared.

See more of Joana Faria and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,1930s, ,A/W 2011, ,Ankolie, ,Blow, ,Cabaret, ,Cherries, ,dalston, ,Diamante, ,Disorder Magazine, ,Drag Queens, ,Frannie’s Pop Up Gallery, ,hats, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mandi Leonard, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,millinery, ,Naomi Law, ,Opium Dens, ,paris, ,piers atkinson, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Frock Me

Recently discussing with a fellow fashion blogger the growing interest in the Scandinavian fashion world, information pills treatment she quipped that it was very easy for Scandinavians to be fashionable; after all, link each and every one of them seem to be all long legs and white blonde hair. Her remark seemed to suggest that perhaps the Scandinavians have no street style genius or imaginative flair when it comes to dressing. Indeed, sale the stereotype of beautiful dumb models hailing from the North of Europe is far from rare – but there’s something going on over there that’s worth a bit of investigating.

Taking just one look at street style websites Lookbook or the Face Hunter confronts us with the fresh new faces of Scandinavian fashion. The majority of the most ‘hyped’ looks on Lookbook come from sassy, fashionable (and often very young) North Europeans, hailing from Stockholm, Helsinki and beyond. Indeed, for a clear picture of Swedish success on Lookbook, just look at “Shelley M, 18 year old art student and blogger from Sweden,” with her knack of combining little girl cuteness (headbands and bows) with serious sex appeal (short black skirts and lace) topped off with crazy heels and splashes of kitsch accessories straight out of Tatty Devine.

And she’s not a lone phenomenon. Sporting brave and bold urban prints in vivid colours, these bright young things from Scandinavian meccas of style exude a perfect blend of 90s skate culture with CluelessCher Horowitz, with her high school polished, blonde doll-faced perfection. See Amelia’s Magazine’s recent articles on Daniel Palillo and CTRL for examples of this kind of styling, something that appears to be truly specific to the Scandinavians. The 90s, it seems, are the nostalgic wardrobe reference du jour here, embodying past positivity and youth in a pre-doom and gloom world of the new millennium.

Ever since the Swedish Institute’s exhibition – ‘Swedish Fashion: Exploring a New Identity’ – launched at London’s Fashion and Textile Museum this February, Scandinavian fashion has seen a markedly rising profile in the fashion world. Celebrating a new wave of Swedish design talent, the exhibition questioned the static view that fashion blooms only in the eponymous fashion capitals of Paris, London, New York and Milan. In fact, this collection instead raised the debate over whether globally, we neglect fashion from all four corners of the globe at the cost of fresher and more interesting approaches to design, simply because they have traditionally been ignored by the industry.

Ann-Sofie Back must be considered one of the most influential and successful of these designers, with her place at London Fashion Week and her capsule collection for Topshop, not to mention her collaboration with that uber-successful Swedish brand, Cheap Monday. As seen at her s/s 09 collection, Back is unafraid to incorporate social comment into her shows, holding celebrity obsession with plastic surgery up to ridicule with her bandaged and felt-tipped models.

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But then, there are also the clothes. Back’s most recent collection sported ripped and distressed pieces supposedly representing ‘Ann-Sofie Back goes to Hell’. Striking the balance can be near-impossible, yet she really knows how to shock whilst also providing wearable fashion pieces.

And Back’s not the only one causing a stir. Joining her from the recent exhibition for particular note are Sandra Backlund, Helena Horstedt and Martin Bergström, who showcased similarly effortless Scandinavian cool.

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If you saw our feature on Backlund’s knitwear in recent weeks, you’ll know that it is really something special; with oversize knotting and draping, with the designs exude wooly coziness whilst remaining edgy and thoroughly modern. Alongside Backlund stands Horstedt whose work focuses on intricacy of shape in order to create highly fascinating designs that swirl and envelope the body with draping and fringing detail, all in solid black.

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Indeed, for both designers, it seems that the human body is paramount to their designs, with Backlund quoted as saying the it is her chief inspiration. Finally we have Bergström, who once again predominantly centres on futuristic shapes enveloping the body with volume, but in a more vivid aquamarine colour palette.

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It seems then, that the Finns and the Swedes are well and truly indulging in some kind of sartorial breakthrough at the moment. Whatever it is that’s doing it, there is undoubtedly something linking these North European designers spurring them into a fashion frenzy. Hopefully, the fashion world will take notice, and we will be joining the likes of Shelley M in her fashion credentials all too soon.

What I find so fascinating, search bewildering and ultimately beautiful about Japan can all be found in Shu Okada, site and her stunning watercolour illustrations. Perfectly and carefully rendered, aesthetically desirable but with undertones of the dark and unspoken, her work is enchanting and haunting in equal measures. Okada is true to her Japanese roots though she now chooses to reside in the more artistically liberal city of New York from where she not only illustrates, but blogs, photographs and produces animation.

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One of the most important things I think for an artist to do is to take themselves out of their comfort zones and immerse their entire beings in different worlds, different cities, different cultures, and that is exactly what Okada has achieved and she’s still only in her early twenties. Her creative passion has taken her around the globe in search of inspiration; schooling in Switzerland, a spell at St Martins, some time at Parsons New School for Design, and already her work has been recognised and awarded by Bologna Book Fair, New Ink Cover Design and New York Times.

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We talked about Kimonos, moving around the world and where to find inspiration, our conversation follows below.

Hello, how are you today?

Good! August is my birth month, so I am very excited now.

What have you been doing recently?

I just finished my college life this summer, so now I have a lot of time to paint and draw anything I want.

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What materials or mediums do you like to work with best?

I like to experiment with different media such as watercolour, ink, and oil paint. Recently I’ve been using watercolour and colour pencil the most. I like how watercolour shows differently when it is wet and dry.

How is the New York art scene different from the Tokyo art scene? What made you decide to leave Japan?

New York is mix of many different cultures and nationalities. I feel that New York art has more variety than in Japan. Also, the attitude of illustrators is slightly different in New York. Before I came here, I thought illustration was about comics (manga) or animations for young kids. I decided to come to New York to see how other cultures see art.

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What inspires your work?

Knowledge is very important, not just for art, but also for living. So now I am trying to read books and watch different kinds of movies when I have time. It doesn’t necessarily need to connect to my art directly, but I believe it helps my way of thinking. Also, I get inspiration from architecture and I sometimes travel to other countries and like to imagine people’s lives there.

How long do the illustrations usually take you to do?

Watercolour has to be quick, because when it is dry, I can’t fix it. So when I start putting watercolour, it doesn’t take a long time to paint at all…but if I make any mistakes, I have to repaint it all over again.

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At what age did you realise you were creative?

My dream was always related to art. When I was in 2nd grade, I wanted to be a fashion designer, and when I was in junior high school, my dream was to be a trumpeter. However, I knew these dreams were just dreams. The time I decided to follow my creativity was in high school. I went to a high school in Switzerland and the way they thought was different from Japan. After we made something in art class, we had a critique time, which was unusual for a Japanese high school. At that time, I realized how I love to show my art to other people and decided to study art more.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years time?

I have no idea where I will be living because I am constantly moving around the world; such as Switzerland, New York, London, Tokyo, and Kanazawa. What I am sure about is that I will have a cute dog and I will name it “Maru the 6th” (my family’s dog is always named “Maru”), and painting everyday.

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Besides art and photography, what are you passions or interests in life?

Kimono is traditional clothing that is still worn in Japan. However, there are many rules about the choice of patterns, colours, and fabric. Because my family works in the Kimono business, I have always wanted to study the Kimono. One of my passions is to study the Kimono and become a Kimono teacher.

Which are your favourite artists/illustrators/photographers?

For now, I like Makoto Aida, a Japanese artist. When I first saw his paintings, I couldn’t move for long time.

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Tell us a secret!

Follow your mind!

Sound advice from a lady who obviously tastes her own medicine.
Emma Puntis

Supplement
31 Temple Street
Bethnal Green
London E2 6QQ

25th July – 16th August
Thursday – Sunday 12 – 6pm

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“Emma Puntis, hospital a Chelsea College of Art and Design graduate, paints strangely intense small-scale portraits. The images which act as inspiration for her work are collected from a wide range of sources, from contemporary family snapshots to historical documents of early photography and traditional landscape painting. In translating these images into paintings she suggests a puzzling connection between these apparently disparate snapshots.”

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A Tradition I Do Not Mean To Break

176 Gallery
176 Prince of Wales Road
London NW5 3PT

Until 16th August
Thursday & Friday 11am-3pm
Saturday & Sunday 11am-6pm
Other times by appointment

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Continuing with the theme of music and folklore at the 176 Gallery, this exhibition promises exciting new audiovisual work including films by David Blandy, Henry Coombes and Tereza Bušková, and will be presented alongside works, by the same artists, from the Zabludowicz Collection.Each artist explores a particular cultural subject with which they strongly identify, using myth, custom and symbolism, delving into gothica, melancholy and opulence.

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Make Do and Mend

V&A Museum of Childhood
Cambridge Heath Rd
London, E2 9PA

Until 8th November
Monday – Sunday 10am to 5:45pm

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“Make Do and Mend combines the work of contemporary designers and local schoolchildren. Jon Male, Lou Rota and Max McMurdo rework salvaged domestic and industrial waste to create stylish, quirky new products. The exhibition is based around a display of objects which have been salvaged and refashioned to make useful new items, with an eye on both the environment and the wallet. Anti-waste wartime tips on cutting excessive consumption have an obvious resonance in today’s economic climate and the campaign to salvage, recycle, and reduce your carbon footprint is also impacting on design.”

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Team Lump: DIY Rapture

Cell Project Space
258 Cambridge Heath Rd
London, E2 9DA

Until 2nd August
Friday – Sunday 12pm – 6pm

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A fascinating discussion on the culture of cults in America lead by native art collective Team Lump, collaborating nicely with drawing, sculpture, painting and film & music. With a focus on the social and political unrest surrounding cults, founder Bill Thelen presents the group who are connected by a DIY aesthetic and a self publishing ethic.
Team Lump Collective, Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
Leah Bailis, Jerstin Crosby Josh Rickards, Bill Thelen ,Tory Wright

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Village Fete Jubilee

V&A
Cromwell Rd
London SW7 2RL

24th July 6.30-10pm
25th July 1-5pm
Admission: £3
Kids 12 years and under: 50p and must be accompanied by an adult

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This year the V&A’s famous Village Fete goes POP ! with the aid of our fabulous sponsors French Connection and just a few balloons. This balloon popping extravanganza is brought to you by Scarlet Projects and Mark Garside. Once again, we bring you the best and most extraordinary in contemporary British design and creative practice. Never has Splat The Rat, coconut shies and homemade jam seemed so much fun. Many thanks go to all the designers taking part in the Fete for their wonderful ideas, their time and their energy.

Highlights:

Carl Clerkin Goes -BING!
Bada Bingo
Kieron Baroutchi, Carl and Cavan Clerkin, Danny Clarke, Gitta Gschwendtner, Rosie Irvine and Ed Ward do Bada Bingo. This years cultural roulette has a distinct Italian American flavor. Cigars, revolving costumes and plenty of drama and of course everyones a winner at the Bing.

Here’s One I Made Ea rlier Goes -Rustle!
Pick ‘n’ Mix Bags
Make like an eco magpie and delve into our pick ‘n’ mix selection of bits and bobs for you to stamp, stick and style your own unique canvas bag. Perfect for transporting your stash of fete goodies!!

Tatty Devine Goes -hoopla!
Welcome to The Ring Master!
The trusty Tatty team will be handing out giant rings for you to throw onto the giant ring master’s hands. If you manage to get a ring on any finger then you win either a Tatty Devine moustache ring or a limited edition hand shaped ring made especially for the fete. Ready Steady. . .Tatty Hoop la!

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Candy Coated Canvas

London Miles Gallery
212 Kensington Park Road
Notting Hill
London W11 1NR

24th July – 24th August
Tuesday / Wednesday : 10am to 6pm
Thursday : 11am to 8pm
Friday: 10am to 7pm
Saturday: 11am to 7pm

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“Candy Coated Canvas is a themed group exhibition showcasing unique artworks by various established and emerging international talent. All artists have been asked to take inspiration from the title “Candy Coated Canvas” and create a unique art piece which is visually extremely colourful and playful, whilst sparking up memories of childhood, sweets, fantasy lands and those naughty but nice pleasures in life.”

Exhibiting artists include:
D’ Holbachie Yoko, Matthew Bone, Zoe Lacchei, Tadaomi Shibuya, Mike Bilz, Lost Fish, Ryan Myers, Sebastian Otto, Scrumptious Delight, Robert Tirado, Rudi Fig, Natalie Shau, Jade Klara, David Palumbo, Luke Kopycinski, Amanda Riley, KuKula,
Tiffany Liu
For me, sildenafil albums by bands I love leaking pre-release onto the internet is not dissimilar to that childhood dilemma of deciding whether to peek at your birthday presents too early ( I say “childhood”-I’m 23 and I still do it), advice you can’t really imagine not doing it but you always feel guilty for the gift-giver afterwards.
Extended metaphors aside, I personally have fallen both sides of the download/ not download leaks even though I always buy the album when it comes out. I always seem to be sitting on my hands trying not to click ‘download’ (Veckatimest, Spring 2009) or staring down at them in shame whilst I enjoy the album guiltily like you would a 5-7 love affair in a seedy hotel after 20 years of separate bed pious marriage (Merriweather Post Pavillion, Christmas Eve 2008).

So this is why when news of the Dodos‘ Time to Die reached my beady music geek eyes, I abstained from scouring Rapidshare links in a darkened room. I’ve turned over a new leaf and besides the Dodos’ fun jingle-jangle psychedelic folk pop offerings; ‘Beware of the Maniacs’ and ‘Visiter’ were pretty much my go-to albums of last summer; we danced at parties and took many a long train journey together so I pretty much owed them some of my very low self-restraint levels.

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Imagine my relief when I got the golden tickets of emails from the Dodos’ PR and all round good- guys; Radar Maker heralding (in what I imagine to be a peeling of bells and rippling fanfares) that the Dodos have embraced the leak of Time to Die, that the band have even released a high quality stream of the album on the website and a video of the band telling me it’s OK to listen to it as long as I buy the album when it’s released. My palms sweaty at the anticipation of revisiting last summer’s aural romance I click the link to listen.

‘Small Deaths’ opens the album in typical Dodos foot-stomping fashion and I’m reminded of just how rousing their drums are as my toes begin a-tapping under my desk and of their happy/sad blend that I vibed last summer; how heartbreakingly nostalgic their lyrics are, and how they contrast so nicely with the childlike simple happiness of their melodies. It also ends with a nice shoegaze noise which is exciting.

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The album continues with all the best parts of the previous two albums, their awesome guitar strumming/ danceable drums that sound like this is going to be the soundtrack to the best day of your life, noticeable on ‘Fables’ and ‘Longform’. Yet there is a definite sense of new things being tried out; there is a definite nod to shoegaze and ‘Time to Die’ is more electric sounding than it’s predecessors; ‘This is the Business’ starts of sounding like Simon and Garfunkel moving into some Pavement-esque riffs and ending somewhere totally new. Two Medicines is a stand out track for me; it starts of with, and is held together by an acapella harmonious chant; like if Brian Wilson was in a Barbershop quartet with Animal Collective circa Sung Tongs; then add some 90s guitar riffs again contrasting with a lush sounding xylophones and glockenspiels slipping and sliding away in the background.

‘Troll Nacht’ starts with the most intense xylophone solo not unlike the music they’d play whilst someone was trying to answer an important question on a quiz show melting into some gentle guitar plucking loops and sad quiet vocals, then it explodes into something bigger and exciting, I can feel my year-old summer romance with the Dodos warming up again. ‘Acorn Factory’ follows on seamlessly in it’s folky simplicity. Time to Die ends the album in a grandiose fashion, it kind of sounds like if My Bloody Valentine swapped black for plaid, moved to the country and developed a penchant for folk, which lets’ face it is always going to sound awesome. Dare I name their new exciting tryst with shoegaze mixed with their old folky, psychedelic ways; Birkenstock-gaze? I think so.

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Time to Die is everything you could want in a new album from a band you love; enough of the things you loved about them before with a definite sense of new things being tried out.

So say thank you to the Dodos (Thank You The Dodos!) for their infinite talent and the good vibes to streaming the album by buying/ downloading Time to Die when it comes out; I can promise you that it is worth it, it will be the soundtrack to the best summer you could have, with none of the sweaty guilt of illicit downloading!
In the mean time kids: Just Say No (and stream instead)…and ermm…Stay In School.

You can stream the album here.
Time to Die will be available physically on 31st August in the UK on Wichita Recordings
and metaphysically (to download) on 27th July.

Monday 20th July

The Truth about Climate Change by Sir David Attenborough

A film screening of Sir David Attenborough’s personal journey to discover how global warming is changing the planet he knows so well. Examining the evidence for this confusing phenomenon, cost Sir David find out what’s causing it and whether mankind is to blame. From Hurricane Katrina to the glacier ice crashing into the sea, visit this site Attenborough discovers it’s a race against time. Starving polar bears and the first direct victims of global warming, the recently extinct golden toad, demonstrates that the danger for humanity may not be far behind. David explores the personal and technological changes we can make to avert catastrophe.

7.30pm – upstairs at the Arcola Theatre.

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DIY Solar Hot Water Course in Spain

Over five mornings course attendees will construct two clip fin solar hot water panels. Attendees will learn how to solder copper piping, basic plumbing, how to install solar hot water collectors and be given an introduction to system design and sizing. 280 euros high waged, 230 euros medium waged, 180 euros low waged. Courses attendees are eligible to a 20% reduction in the normal Sunseed rates for a period of 1-3 weeks before or after the course.

Contact: Sunseed Apdo 9 04270 Sorbas Almería Spain (0034) 950 525 770 www.sunseed.org.uk
E-mail: sunseedspain@arrakis.es
www.sunseed.org.uk

Tuesday 21st July

From ‘me’ to ‘we’

Mark Earls discusses the emergence of the “social revolution” in marketing management and social policy, the changing focus from individual, narrow, goals-oriented thinking to a broader, community-led approach.

Contact: lectures@rsa.org.uk
1pm – RSA, 8 John Adam Street, London WC2

Wednesday 22nd July

Demonstration to save Vestas Wind Turbine factory

Take to the streets to protest the imminent closure of the only wind turbine factory in the UK.

Contact: info@campaigncc.org
6pm – outside the Department of Energy and Climate Change, 3 Whitehall Place, London

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Vestas-built wind farm, Black Banks, Ireland

Thursday 23rd July

Resurgence Readers Weekend & Camp

A unique event bringing together Resurgence readers, speakers and supporters. Share four days of stimulating discussion, music, dance, crafts and walks with fellow readers and contributors to the magazine at this year’s camp. The Resurgence Summer Camp is hosted by Green and Away – Europe’s only tented conference centre situated on an idyllic site near Malvern, Worcestershire. Organic food, wood-burning showers, crafts, electricity from the sun and wind, and saunas.

Contact: Resurgence, Ford House, Hartland, Bideford, Devon EX39 – info@resurgence.org
Dates: Thursday 23 Jul 2009 to Sunday 26 Jul 2009 – Green and Away, Worcester

Friday 24th July

Peace News Summer Camp

Come to the Peace News Summer Camp and join people from across the broad spectrum of the British peace movement for five days of exploration, celebration and empowerment. Bring your contribution to a hothouse of creativity, a small self-governed society run by democratic camp meetings, a viable example of the kind of world we are trying to bring about. The Peace News Summer Camp helps build a radical movement for the future by building a living community today.

from Thursday 23rd to Monday 27th July – Faringdon, Oxfordshire
Find out all about it, here.

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Saturday 25th July

Furniture Conservation

Bring your own furniture and repair/re-polish/refurbish it with the help of Anne Holden, a former professional furniture restorer. Suitable work would be small repairs, French polishing, stripping and re-polishing, surface cleaning and revival, replacing missing bits of veneer etc. Bring several pieces if possible as it may be necessary to leave stripped or glued furniture to dry for a period.

No previous experience necessary. Tools are available for loan but bring your own if you have them and learn how to sharpen them. Materials will be provided, but a small charge will be made if large quantities are used.

Contact: Anne Holden – 01787 229955 – info@assingtonmill.com
9.30am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday – Assington Mill, Suffolk

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Photo : Brenda Hochachka

Sunday 26th July

Annual Bug Hunt at RSPB Rainham Marshes

If you like bugs then our expert ‘Spiderman’ will show you the small wonders of the natural world. From Wasp Spiders to Devils Coachman – we hope to find them all. Bring a packed lunch as this will be a fun packed day. Booking Essential.

RSPB Members: £3.50, WEX members: £1.50, Adult non members: £7, child non members: £3

11am – 4pm – RSPB Rainham Marshes Nature Reserve, New Tank Hill Road, Purfleet. RM19 1SZ

Contact: RSPB Rainham Marshes – 01708 899840 – Rainham.marshes@rspb.org.uk

Summer is here in a crashing bundle of thunderclouds- check out this weeks music listings- there more electrifying than the lightening we’ve been having. Prepared to be shocked (in the good way).

Monday 20th July 2009
DM Stith, and Hoxton Bar and Grill, patient London

DM Stith comes to our humble shores on a swell of strings and a flicker of guitar plucking. There is something creepy and beautiful about his whispering lilting voice on Heavy Ghost debut LP (Asthmatic Kitty), sickness and indeed he sounds like a ghostly take on the man with the guitar type. If you like Bon Iver and being slightly frightened then this is for you.

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Tuesday 21st July 2009
Hjaltalin, The Lexington, London

After last week’s epic and magical múm gig, I’m hungry for more Icelandic music (and accents). Hjaltalin make lovely orchestral pop in the vein of Sufjan Stevens, complete with brass, woodwinds and magic! If anyone knows how to pronounce Hjaltalin- answers on a postcard to P.O BOX- Amelia’s Towers.

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Wednesday 22nd July 2009
Oh Minnows, Pure Groove, London

Oh Minnows, apart from having an awesome name, play the kind of synth heavy creepy pop that would fit oh-so perfectly into a David Lynch film, making me immeasurably happy and just slightly creeped out. Not to be missed for Twin Peaks geeks!

Thursday 23rd July 2009
Koko Von Napoo and Eugene Mc Guiness Buffalo Bar, London

Paris’ Koko Von Napoo do boy/girl, chic/spacey in equal measures. Fun pop that aims towards ESG mixed with John Maus. Eugene McGuinness shares the bill with his fun lo-fi folk that leans towards a vintage 50s vibe at times. He also has a song called “Fonz” which begs the question how could he possibly not be good?
DJs from both sides of the Channel follow.

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Friday 24th July 2009
Yacht, Pure Groove, London

Given the current economic climate, here is the 2nd free gig at Pure Groove I’ve included this week. Oregon’s finest electronica outfit and general heroes Yacht will blow your mind and your socks off. If you come, I’ll save you a dance and a high five.

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Saturday 25th July 2009
Au Revoir Simone, Proud Galleries, London

You may remember a few months ago a lucky member of the Amelia’s Magazine team got to interview Au Revoir Simone, and see them live afterwards, ok, she did an excellent job but since that point my resentment and jealousy have been festering in secret, but now I breathe a sigh of relief and jump for joy as they’re playing again and I pipped the other interns to the post at the chance to see them. Not only do they have the best legs in music, they continue to make beautiful and melodic pop music.
Support from Swedish Those Dancing Days who play organ-tinged girly Northern Soul .

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What does a girl look for after finding the perfect pair of shoes? I might have hazarded a guess at the perfect man, there but in this post- Sex and the City and post-feminist world, the general consensus amongst my female friends seemed to be that more important than having a man about to put up shelves (etc) was having the most beautiful dress, made to fit them perfectly.

And I know of just the place to look.Makemeadress.com is the brainchild of Alexandra King, a fashion designer with a love of all things pretty, vintage and girly. Customers get to choose every part of the dress to create a one off, unique garment. There is a choice of ten top halves and six bottom halves, so you simply flick through the sketches to find your perfect match. Then there is the huge choice of fabrics, with everything ranging from stunning silks and satins to practical cottons and gorgeous assortment of vintage fabrics for the true, one-of-a-kind look.

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With a studio next door to her house by a Somerset river, Alexi’s surroundings are a far cry from the harsh edges of the London catwalks, instead infusing fashion and dressmaking with that that often elusive sense of warmth and romance. Dropping by her house for tea, I somehow always make sure to find the time to rummage through her extensive archive of the very best pieces she has collected over the years. Being a lifelong friend I know the sheer number of pies this fashionista has her delicate little fingers in! There is the mothership, www.alexandra-king.com: simply reading the glowing testimonials from grateful clients it is not hard to see that this is a designer definitely worth her salt. This is the place to find bespoke wedding dresses (again made to measure) lingerie and key pieces from past and present collections. Then there is the eBay shop, a mecca for vintage lovers to pick up carefully selected on off pieces. And it is not just e-commerce that Mrs King deals in. Alexandra also works for St. Peters Hospice in Bristol, sorting through donations to help the charity with her fashionable eye. Finally, jewellery is another passion, with Alexi creating statement pieces to perfectly set off an outfit and hats for any occasion.

Multitalented? Yes ma’am.

What inspired you to set up the site?

I graduated in fashion design in 2005 and had to choose whether I moved to London to find a job or to stay in the countryside to work for myself. I chose the latter and have been designing my own vintage range for boutiques since then, along with running my vintage store. Makemeadress came along when I wanted to combine the individuality of the one off vintage dresses with my own designs. It needed to compete in the fashion market against the likes of Topshop and boutiques by offering the customer a unique service that they couldn’t get on the high street .

What is it you love about vintage dresses?

Everything! They are usually so beautifully made and the fabrics are just so exciting. I’m a collector also and you can get quite addicted to finding specific pieces by designers, especially after you have read their books! It’s lovely to own a little piece of fashion history before we had such mass- produced garments.

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Who makes and designs the dress once the order has been processed & where, are they made at home?

At the moment I design and do a little bit of making at my studio. I also have a small group seamstresses local to me who are fabulous at what they do. I’m hoping to bring some other designers in on the project in the future so that there is a wider range of styles.

How much input can the customer have with regards to colour, fabric and style?

With MMaD the customer can really create whatever they want. If they can’t see something they like, they can always send a photo in and we’ll make up the dress for them. I would really like to expand the range of colours and fabrics and hopefully this will be achieved on the upcoming website.

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Is £97 your set price…or do the prices vary?

I wanted to keep the dresses under £100 to make them accessible to all, and it’s the set price for all the MMaD dresses. The website will be offering one off ready to wear dresses which may be a little more expensive depending on the work that has gone into them. I believe in paying the seamstresses a fair price for thier work, not cutting corners by using poor quality fabrics and being sensible about profits which go straight back into the buisness.

How do you deal with problem of measuring the customer, if orders are processed over eBay?

This was one of the initial problems I was most aware of. The website will have a clear size guide, a guide on how to measure yourself and we do also offer an alteration service free of charge if the dress doesn’t fit first time. The customers have been quite good so far at measuring themselves and getting it right. Only a couple of blips like when a bridesmaid ate too much for lunch and then couldn’t fit into her dress when it arrived. Luckily it was fine the next day! Selling vintage clothing has given me a lot of experience in measuring and fitting for the cutomers.

How long does it take to make and dispatch the dress to the customer?

Each MMaD dress is cut once we have the order, nothing can be pre-made. Once it’s cut, the dress is sewn by the seamstress and then packed and delivered within two weeks to the customer. All produced in the local area.

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Are you finding that’s there is a high demand for vintage style dresses at the moment?

It’s huge and I think it always will be. Sites like eBay and etsy have just made buying vintage clothing more accessible and people who are interested in fashion in any way, will always love it. The only worry is that all those vintage dresses will run out, but then hopefully you will have MMaD!

If you could describe your service in a few sentences what would you say?

Create the dress of your dreams…. your style, your colour, your dress. It’s all about you! And if you’re not sure, you can have one of the fabulous dresses we made earlier!

Categories ,Bespoke garments, ,Jewellery, ,Millinery, ,Retro, ,Vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Kensington and Chelsea College Millinery

Illustration by Dan Heffer, hospital for sale Hat by Angela Bruce; The Hedgerow Collection

I’m not sure if it’s the wedding’s I’ve been too recently or the press attention regarding ladies hats at certain summer races (hello Ascot) or whether it’s as simple as the sun being out, there but recently I’ve been paying more attention to headwear. Therefore it was a great pleasure to be invited to Kensington and Chelsea College’s End of Year Millinery exhibition.

Who could resist Anna Pulleyn’s Forgotten Garden Collection?

Illustration by Krister Selin

Illustration by Lauren Macaulay

The quality of the work on display was unmistakable and the sculptural and innovative shapes a joy to look at. Each Milliner created a story around their final collection, erectile the materials used were inspired by Japanese textile techniques, mechanics and traditional stories; for example Rachel Fallon’s take on Alice in Wonderland.

Illustration by Rachael Price

Hannah-Kates Morgan’s Narcissism collection, revisited another classic text; the greek tragedy of Narcissus.

Beth Simpson’s collection was inspired by the collection of the Marchesa Casati. Beth describes the collection’s muse as “extravagant, eccentric and bizarre, who for the first three decades of the 20th Century astounded Europe.”

Kate Underdown’s collection was inspired by medical specimens and the anatomical drawings by the Victorians sourced from the Hunerian and Grant Museums of Medicine.

Illustration by Charlotte Gibson

Illustration by Charlotte Gibson

Elaine Lax’s wonderful Mechanical Movement collection created from the building blocks of machinery, that is required to keep our way of life moving.

Congratulations to all the students for a wonderful show and to Kate Underdown, Awon Golding, Rebecca Coffee, Angela Bruce, Ellen Bowden, and Mandy McGregor whose hats were selected to be exhibited at Fenwicks.

Photographs by Sally Mumby-Croft

Categories ,Angela Bruce, ,Anna Pulleyn, ,Awon Golding, ,Beth Simpson, ,Charlotte Gibson, ,Dan Heffer, ,Ellen Bowden, ,Elliane Lax, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah-Kates Morgan, ,Kate Underdown, ,Kensington and Chelsea College, ,Krister Selin, ,Lauren Macaulay, ,Mandy McGregor, ,millinery, ,Rachel Fallon, ,Rachel Price, ,Rebecca Coffee, ,Stephen Jones

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Extra: Royal College of Art MA 2010


Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of extremely talented designers; from those reinventing menswear: James Long and Katie Eary to the individual take on womenswear by Michael van der Ham, hospital Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except perhaps, stomach Erdem) subsequently – pretty much straight away- showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

Zara Gorman’s graduated from the Milinery MA (a class of one) with her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, pilule wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear re-constructed the base elements of sportswear – the hoody, the sweatpants through incredibly luxurious materials (sadly this show was sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur – this is not a luxury material!). This was sportswear for the nouveau riche and a celebration of trashy aesthetics so loved by Eddie of Ab Fab

The less media friendly elements of sportswear were visited on the RCA catwalk this year, Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear focused on the harder youth. Who displayed across t-shirts and jackets what in recent years has come to represent a particular type of English youth: the Pit Bull. The word ‘Chav’ being the inspiration for a couple of the 2010 MA graduates, this collection was a literal inspiration of a term created in the media. Both designers exaggerated how an idea of masculine dominance and power can be created through dress and aesthetic choice, playing with the viewers ability to associate certain items of dress with particular ideas surrounding masculinity.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

In contrast to Andersen and McWilliams, Trine Jensen provided a jovial take on menswear through his breathtaking sweaters covered with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops. A nod to the collector within us all.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular tightly woven knitwear sashed down the catwalk. The ankle grazing dresses set off by the muted colour block graphic coats, complete with exaggerated rounded shoulders. A nod perhaps to Louise Goldin experimental knitwear.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Poppy Cartwright’s white collection was skin tight and slightly trashy through the use of high shine trousers. The collection celebrated femininity and the female form through the cut of the dress falling tight across the body. The body emphasised through the sections cut out and the white on white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, the designer’s soft fabrics accentuating hips and shoulders.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with pastel pink dresses constructed through negative spacing.

Yuri Yufere dramatic feminine shapes were hardened by the narrow metal poles woven into the garments, creating a visible extension of the body. Pushing the material into that grey area of personal space which surrounds us all. This year’s 2010 graduates presented an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention currently occurring within the RCA’s Fashion Department. Amelia’s Magazine waits eagerly to see where they go next.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Categories ,Astrid Andersen, ,Cecile Bahnsen, ,Courtney McWilliams, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Frances Convey, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,James Long, ,Joseph Keirs, ,Katey Harvey, ,Katie Eary, ,knitwear, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,ma, ,Marnie Hollande, ,menswear, ,Michael van der Ham, ,millinery, ,Poppy Cartwright, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam McCoach, ,Victoria Stone, ,Womenswear, ,Yuri Yufere, ,Zara Gorman

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