Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bora Aksu (by Amelia)

W 2011-W 2011-IMG_4205
LFW2_FlorianJayet_by_AlisonDay

LFW A/W 2011, mind Florian Jayet. Illustration by Alison Day

I spent London Fashion Week staying at my parent’s house. My childhood home with a new kitchen, approved dog ‘brother’, purchase central heating that works and a bath. I’m not going to lie, I enjoyed having my porridge made in the morning. Maple syrup on the side, and a herbal tea, packed lunch filled with snacks. That’s right, I lapped it up. Although Charlie is an excellent boy/man, there is nothing quite like the mother. However they live a few miles outside of Brighton, in a village. Thus the trek to London, the long days and write ups – intense. All because I LOVE it. Love words, fashion, and obviously, this mighty magazine. Yet I deliberated with coming to London for one show on Sunday. Day of rest day normally means Roast dinner. But I have in my mind, ‘NO HELS! SAY NOT TO NOTHING!’ at all times. I’m following my writing dream after all. This causes me great pleasures and enormous pains. So, of course, one show or not, I was on that train to London Victoria. And am I glad I made the effort for Fashion Mode?

Yes. Three shows in one; three excellent shows. I’m going to split Fashion Mode into three posts, because each designer deserves the love. So we will start with Floriet Jayet.

LFW3_FlorianJayet_by_AlisonDay

Illustration by LFW A/W 2011, Florian Jayet.Alison Day

Initially I was slightly terrified and in awe of the models coming out. Nothing different to every show you might say. But, this was different, because the models had metal contraptions of their heads that made them look like a cross between special aliens and orthodontic patients. Four strips of silver metal came over their heads from the back, to touch their faces, with an enormous roller at the back. After my initial fear, I decided that they looked cool, as inevitably happens at LFW. See: ‘Urg… ahhh.. yah, I totally get that now. I want one.’ Although I’m not sure I would wear one of these creations, I would certainly consider wearing the dresses, which the metal complimented perfectly. Wiggle space lady, that’s what you are. With lasers from your eyes and hips.

Florian Jayet is a graduate in Biology which explains his science appreciative designs. The dresses featured strong shoulders, midi length skirts and padded fabrics. The shape of the woman has been celebrated and appreciated as if it is meant to be seen and not covered – raw biology. The models reminded me of those in Huxley’s; Brave New World. Perfect, angular and although feminine, minus the romanticism and emotional sentimentality, that are sometimes conjured by designs. In a sense Jayet‘s pieces are actually a mix of previous, and our vision of future, ideologies. The restricted, but beautiful shapes of the 20s, 30s and 40s appear to have been fused with modern and excessive details; i.e. the shoulders. The contemporary complimenting the past, and particularly with reference to French houses; Chanel and Dior. This makes for a very sophisticated and composed look. It made me want to look closer, at every detail, and know more. As opposed to held within the ruffles, the corset and the red heels, everything seemed so wrapped up, with the story inside. It was whimsical in its own way, and also impenetrable. These outfits are those that I would hope to find in the corner of a cafe in Paris, smoking, mysterious, alone – with a steely, but far away look.

I adored the padding details and the shrug wraps. Space lady, dressed for dinner. The long dresses had a Japanese feel to them, geisha like and graceful. Florian Jayet said that the focus for him, is to create; ‘a fetish wardrobe, pieces that a woman can keep forever, bringing them out on special occasions when she needs to be propelled into confidence and strength.’ It’s fair to say that you would feel empowered wearing Jayet’s pieces. The creams and blacks, shoulders, padding and midi length skirts would have me stomping and demanding like a glossy magazine Editor with somewhere to be. However at the moment it’s more probable I would be the space lady in the cafe, with a triple americano (having no affect), internally reliving or hoping for something. With an unreadable face, it’s unclear as to what scene could be playing in the mind of this space femme, but in a way it’s romantic.

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Danielle Shepherd
Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Danielle Shepherd.

Bora Aksu is one of the most unassuming and down to earth men I’ve ever met, and let alone in the land of fashion – which is why it is so bizarre that his shows attract such a high level of celebrity interest – I can’t for one moment imagine that he courts it himself…

Twiggy at Bora Aksu. Amelia Gregory
Twiggy at Bora Aksu. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

It was only after I’d planted myself down in the front row that I realised I was in the thick of a celebrity pap fest. Twiggy was busy giving vox pops to my left and Marina of Marina and the Diamonds fame came stomping past inches from my nose in a bid to find a spare patch of front row action. I kept my head down, stomach so it was only after the show that I realised I’d been sitting only a few bodies down from ex Sugababes’ star Keisha Buchanan, information pills as she stood for an awkward and heavily photographed air kiss reunion with Girls Aloud’s current fashion darling Nicola Roberts, whose incredible thinness was enhanced by the halo of flashes going off behind her. I could hardly leave the venue for the ensuing scrum. Memo to self: try to avoid sitting in the thick of celeb land next time.

Marina by Artist Andrea
Marina in an amazing mice encrusted jumper by Andrea Peterson.

Last season Bora took a step away from the Somerset House action to show at the considerably smaller venue at Victoria House, and in reflection of this step down his collection seemed slightly lacking in confidence. But for A/W 2011 he was back in the big tent, and proving once more that he is at the height of his powers.

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Donya Todd
Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Donya Todd.

Gun metal grey is a favourite Bora colour, and the collection flew off the starting blocks as it meant to continue, with a gorgeous bustle-backed party frock in metallic fabric and wool, highlighted by a slash of emerald green at the waist and in the underskirt – a colour that was to take second place only to his beloved grey this season.

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Alia Gargum
Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Alia Gargum.

Bora staples: lace, sheer chiffon, cable knit and corsetry lacing were all present and correct, bound and wound around the models in cunning arrangements. Playful inspiration was found in the form of tuxedos and bow ties, Bora playing with proportion, placement and trompe l’oeil effects.

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

As usual some of the dresses called to mind a suit of armour, contouring the female form. As the collection progressed the models’ delicate features became evermore bound in black gauze before they grouped in formation to take their final turn on the catwalk – a trend that was to be repeated throughout the week at various shows.

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Bora Aksu has an extraordinarily clear vision that keeps getting stronger and stronger: feminine without being too girly, clever without being unwearable, recognisable without being samey and continuously innovative. He is without doubt one of the most individual and idiosyncratic designers working in the UK today. Roll on S/S 2012.

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Georgia Takacs’ review here and Jemma Crow’s review here. Or you can check in with my intimate interview, posted last September. We’re big fans, what can I say?

Bora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia GregoryBora Aksu A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Bora Aksu, ,Bow Tie, ,Danielle Shepherd, ,Donya Todd, ,Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, ,girls aloud, ,Keisha Buchanan, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Nicola Roberts, ,Sugababes, ,Sweeny Todd, ,trompe l’oeil, ,Tuxedo, ,twiggy

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bora Aksu (by Jemma)

Bora Aksu London Fashion Week AW11
Bora Aksu by Lisa Stannard

Bora was the hot ticket on Saturday night and it was typical that all the big fashion editors were otherwise engaged, pills ok so they were at Downing Street with the queen of political fashion Sam Cam but I bet they were gutted. In fact I was quite impressed with myself getting a seat right by the models entrance and plonking myself right on the end….that was until the show got soo full up that the side of the stage was crowded with a gazillion people blocking my photographic view. Oh well.

Bora Aksu London Fashion Week AW11
Illustration by Lisa Stannard

Aksu is a graduate of the Central Saint Martins MA (who isn’t these days?) so since 2002 he has been working through his collections and gaining the title of “star of the show” by many newspapers which lead him to his first debut collection off schedule in February 2003. Suzy Menkes is even a fan, mind not an accolade to be taken lightly. Intriguingly Bora Aksu was intent on dressing models in chiffon headband. Now these weren’t ordinarily tied around the head but wrapped in a variety of criss cross styles almost like a facial sling; not that that’s a slur I loved it. Aksu’s aspiration is to “find balance point between contrast [and create romance] with a darker twist.”

Bora Aksu London Fashion Week AW11
Photoography by Jemma Crow

It certainly was a darker show inspired by Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde with Marilyn Manson’s rendition of Sweet Dreams accompanying the models. Although looks were tailored there was an old-fashioned Victorian feel to the collection with bustle style skirts on dresses and bow ties. It even seemed that Aksu had taken a leaf out of Christopher Kane’s book with a green lace dress, looking to be a hot colour for the season along with red (but never together of course that would be ridiculous!) It even came in the form of silky shirts tucked into trousers. Delish!

Aksu knows how to make the OTT side of fashion into a surprisingly wearable collection. I think it’s mostly down to his subtle use of colour (the greens) and detailing (the bows and head scarves) which makes everything just that bit more interesting.

Bora Aksu London Fashion Week AW11
Photoography by Jemma Crow

As with all the popular shows we had the delights of a front row celebrity through non other than M&S sweetheart Twiggy who sat next to our very own Amelia Gregory. But the real press scrum (and I’m not using that word lightly it was a MENTAL scrum) came after the show. What with the likes of Marina from the Diamonds fame, Nicola Roberts from Girls Aloud and Twiggy making their exit, getting out of the show was easier said than done. Cue lots of pushing us plebs from the paparazzi as far as we could go just so that they could get the money shot. Not my favourite thing about these shows but it’s all got to be done. And believe me I’ve got elbows to push them back be warned.

Bora Aksu London Fashion Week AW11
Bora Aksu by Lisa Stannard

Thanks to Lisa Stannard for the illustrations. More of her work can be seen in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,Amelia Gregory, ,AW11, ,Bora Aksu, ,celebrity scrum, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Downing Street, ,Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, ,Lisa Stannard, ,London Fashion Week, ,marilyn manson, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Nicola Roberts, ,samantha cameron, ,Suzy Menkes, ,twiggy

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Felder Felder: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Felder Felder by Angelica Moreno
Felder Felder A/W 2013 by Angelica Moreno

Queuing is an absolute pain and I spent the majority of my first day at London Fashion Week doing just that, well, that and also giggling at all the hilarious fashion peacocks pouting and posing at street style photographers.

Felder Felder AW13
After spending an excruciating amount of time waiting to see Felder Felder at the BFC Courtyard Showspace, I finally got in, got my free popcorn and walked past some recognisable front row-ers like Mollie King, Marina from Marina and the Diamonds and of course Kate Nash, who performed at last season’s runway.

FelderFelder A/W13
Texture would be the keyword to describe the Felder Felder A/W 2013 show, which featured tailored wool outerwear, velvet bouclé, knit and leather, latex and chiffon, all in classic autumn shades. Various combinations of these materials strutted down the runway to a remix of Venus in Furs, a fitting soundtrack for a modern take on the 1970’s. Personal standout pieces for me were the peach latex trench with a velvet bouclé crop top and the finale, featuring a pair of blondes in grey and white faux fur coats.

Felder Felder A/W13 by Charlotte Edey
Felder Felder A/W 2013 by Charlotte Edey

The collection felt more mature than last season but still had the Felder twins’ signature girly rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. A lot of the pieces would appeal to young girls shopping in the mass market, so expect to see numerous latex cigarette trousers at a high street shop near you soon; unfortunately wearing these would be disastrous for some.

Felder Felder A/W 13
Felder Felder by Sarah Bogott
Felder Felder A/W 2013 by Sarah Bogott

Felder Felder A/W13
All photography by Alex Kessler

Categories ,70’s, ,Angelica Moreno, ,BFC Courtyard Showspace, ,Charlotte Edey, ,Felder Felder, ,Kate Nash, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Mollie King, ,Sarah Bogott, ,Venus in Furs

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with fashion designer Fam Irvoll


Illustration by Dee Andrews

Fam irvoll is is a Central Saint Martins graduate with a star studded following including Lady Gaga and Marina Diamandis (remember that pink flamingo dress?). Her cupcake headbands were an instant hit, nurse her Alice in Wonderland style collections and adverts create a sense of accessible fantasy and she is just about to launch her floral themed S/S 2011 collection. It features exaggerated flowers alongside pop-art influenced speech bubbles, graphic print makeup and big bold red lips. Not one to shy away from brights, she is known for creating fun, quirky designs in glaringly bold colours, and fresh shapes.

From reviews and images of your shows, it seems that you like to entertain people, is that important to your designs?
Yes! It’s a huge part of what I do, as my clothes are not really commercial pieces I just want to go all the way and make it as anti-commercial during the show as I possibly can. I love crazy and that’s what I’m trying to portray with my work and with the entertainment. I always have either a film, dancers, singers or burlesque acts to entertain the people and to supplement the red tread throughout the catwalk show. People seem to really like it.


Illustration by Jenny Costello

They certainly do, a lot of high profile people have worn your designs, who has flattered you the most by wearing your clothes?
Lots of amazing people; off the top of my head, the lovely Marina (Diamandis), Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Mika, Katy Perry, Paloma Faith and a lot of Norwegian singers.

?Who is your ultimate muse?
I would have to say Marina from Marina and the Diamonds. She is just really lovely and I know she genuinely likes my stuff; at the same time she’s an amazing singer and a beautiful woman that you really can put anything on and it would look amazing. I really do love her style in general; it’s quirky and fun, just like me!

?The collections you design are always so fun and full of energy, where do you find your inspiration?
Usually from art, toys, films, food and just by going to London and going out clubbing and watching people. I love the London gay tranny scene; there are so many amazing people so it’s extremely easy to get inspired. We don’t really have a scene like that back home in Norway, so I feel really fortunate to have so many crazy looking friends in London that I can go and visit…I must say I really miss the good old times with Boombox every Sunday in Hoxton Square.


Illustration by Farzeen Jabbar

So, do you miss living in London?
I absolutely loved London and CSM, those must have been my best years so far. I love love, love, love London and everything you can do there. London is the city that never sleeps, with all the cool freaks. I made so many amazing friends during that time and did so many crazy things. CSM was also a really good experience; I love all the creativity that goes on behind all those doors. It’s amazing and I’m so happy I got in there.

Onto the collections…There are flamingos, tea cups and croquet resonant in your work, where did the fascination with Alice in Wonderland begin?
?It started in my final year of fashion school in Norway, in 2005. The year Gwen Stefani’s ‘What You Waiting For?’ video came out. I think I died for a second the first time I saw that amazing Alice in Wonderland video. It made me rethink my whole final collection. I’ve always loved the film and the book but it never really came into place before that video came out.

As well as an abundance of flowers for this collection, candy and cupcakes feature in a lot of your designs, do you like sweet things? Do you like cake?
I actually don’t really like cake, only cheesecakes. But I love looking at sweet things and I do get inspired by candy and pastry, but I’m more of a Scandi-salty-liquorish-kind of gal!

Roy Lichtenstein appears to be a huge influence on your most recent collection, and carried through to the makeup on the models. How did you arrive at the concept?
I have a massively huge Lichtenstein picture in my living room and that’s where the makeup came from. I called the make up artist that does fashion week and asked if it would be possible to do it in the amount of time that we had before the show and she was really positive to the idea of trying it out. My whole collection was inspired by Pop Art and by Salvador Dali; I have always been a huge fan of the movement and I have collected art books from this era for ages – so I finallt got to do a tiny tribute.


Illustration by Avril Kelly

A lot of your clothes and accessories requires some good knitting skills to create, do you knit?
Well, I have a BA in womenswear from ESMOD in Oslo and then I have a Fashion Knitwear BA from CSM in London, so yes I do knit. But usually I only do the samples and then someone else will do the rest, because I don’t have time to do it all. My mum actually started to knit and did lots of different courses so that she could help me! ?

It’s a floral theme so finally, what’s your favourite flower?
?The rose, because of all the different beautiful colours you can get them in.

Categories ,Avril Kelly, ,beyonce, ,Boombox, ,Burlesque, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cheesecake, ,cupcakes, ,Dee Andrews, ,Fam Irvoll, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,Flowers, ,Katy Perry, ,knitwear, ,Lady Gaga, ,london, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Mika, ,Norway, ,paloma faith, ,Pop Art, ,Salvador Dali, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Secret Garden Party 2010: Friday Review

Hidden in a mini industrial estate just off Curtain Road, sales Payne Shurvell opens their inaugural exhibition “A Bright and Guilty Place” in an old light factory. The gallery directors introduce thirteen artists’ -who are either unrepresented or have yet to show in London- unique approaches to the subject of mapping and place. The word introduction is mentioned as the gallery presents an idea of each individual’s practice – rather than claiming to represent their overture in it’s entirety. What is successful about this show is that it does not feel as if the curators have placed a theme on the artists rather they have found 13 separate practices that uniquely represent mapping and place.

Ideas touch upon psycho-geography, cheapest and that endless human drive to find our place in the world – either through art or religion these questions are perennial.
Art offers a respite from the ever distance shortening communication provided by the internet. Maps provide a way of documenting economic prowess, find failure or entrapment as represented by Dan Hays replication of page 62 of the London A-Z focusing on the financial capital of London Canary Wharf.

Maps can also be used to document the trails of immigration, notably failed attempts or the endless drift of those people designated as unwanted. Lucy Wood demonstrates the paths of Mexicans who have attempted to cross the border and in worse cases died trying.

Andrew Curtis plays with ideas of suburbia with his eary prints of houses with trees printed over them…

Ideas of place are explored with Ian W’s print of the studios Jasper Johns inhabited during his time in New York – What makes a house a home? What makes a home important is it who lives there – is there added interest in Jasper Johns house because it belonged to Jasper Johns? What therefore could his house add to the conversation regarding his work?

Anika explores polish shop fronts through these exquisite models and her wonderful drawings.

Adrian McNeil’s sinister photographs tackle tricky ideas on immigration through the arrival of non native plants and their impact upon the ecosystem of their new destination. Making apparent the underlying sense of threat that immigration is all too often portrayed in the media as.

The world is full of misscommunication. History lessons are full of lessons that wars could have been stopped if only communication had been clearer. Frank Selby tackles this problem in his drawing “Stop the next next War War”.

This is a fascinating exhibition introducing artists at the beginning of their careers. Amelia’s Magazine throughly recommends a visit to Hewitt Street before July 24th.

The world is full of misscommunication. History lessons are full of lessons that wars could have been stopped if only communication had been clearer. Frank Selby tackles this problem in his drawing “Stop the next next War War”.

Hidden in a mini industrial estate just off Curtain Road, decease Payne Shurvell opens their inaugural exhibition “A Bright and Guilty Place” in an old light factory. The gallery directors introduce thirteen artists’ -who are either unrepresented or have yet to show in London- unique approaches to the subject of mapping and place. The word introduction is mentioned as the gallery presents an idea of each individual’s practice – rather than claiming to represent their overture in it’s entirety. What is successful about this show is that it does not feel as if the curators have placed a theme on the artists rather they have found 13 separate practices that uniquely represent mapping and place.

Derek Ogbourne’s Hope and Glory

Ideas touch upon psycho-geography, health and that endless human drive to find our place in the world – either through art or religion these questions are perennial.
Art offers a respite from the ever distance shortening communication provided by the internet. Maps provide a way of documenting economic prowess, failure or entrapment as represented by Dan Hays replication of page 62 of the London A-Z focusing on the financial capital of London Canary Wharf.

Maps can also be used to document the trails of immigration, notably failed attempts or the endless drift of those people designated as unwanted. Lucy Wood demonstrates the paths of Mexicans who have attempted to cross the border and in worse cases died trying.

Andrew Curtis plays with ideas of suburbia with his eary prints of houses with trees printed over them…

Ideas of place are explored with Ian W’s print of the studios Jasper Johns inhabited during his time in New York – What makes a house a home? What makes a home important is it who lives there – is there added interest in Jasper Johns house because it belonged to Jasper Johns? What therefore could his house add to the conversation regarding his work?

Anika explores polish shop fronts through these exquisite models and her wonderful drawings.

Adrian McNeil’s sinister photographs tackle tricky ideas on immigration through the arrival of non native plants and their impact upon the ecosystem of their new destination. Making apparent the underlying sense of threat that immigration is all too often portrayed in the media as.

This is a fascinating exhibition introducing artists at the beginning of their careers. Amelia’s Magazine throughly recommends a visit to Hewitt Street before July 24th.

The world is full of misscommunication. History lessons are full of lessons that wars could have been stopped if only communication had been clearer. Frank Selby tackles this problem in his drawing “Stop the next next War War”.

Hidden in a mini industrial estate just off Curtain Road, search Payne Shurvell opens their inaugural exhibition “A Bright and Guilty Place” in an old light factory. The gallery directors introduce thirteen artists’ -who are either unrepresented or have yet to show in London- unique approaches to the subject of mapping and place. The word introduction is mentioned as the gallery presents an idea of each individual’s practice – rather than claiming to represent their overture in it’s entirety. What is successful about this show is that it does not feel as if the curators have placed a theme on the artists rather they have found 13 separate practices that uniquely represent mapping and place.

Derek Ogbourne’s Hope and Glory

Ideas touch upon psycho-geography, and and that endless human drive to find our place in the world – either through art or religion these questions are perennial.
Art offers a respite from the ever distance shortening communication provided by the internet. Maps provide a way of documenting economic prowess, viagra buy failure or entrapment as represented by Dan Hays replication of page 62 of the London A-Z focusing on the financial capital of London Canary Wharf.

Maps can also be used to document the trails of immigration, notably failed attempts or the endless drift of those people designated as unwanted. Lucy Wood demonstrates the paths of Mexicans who have attempted to cross the border and in worse cases died trying.

Andrew Curtis plays with ideas of suburbia with his eary prints of houses with trees printed over them…

Ideas of place are explored with Ian W’s print of the studios Jasper Johns inhabited during his time in New York – What makes a house a home? What makes a home important is it who lives there – is there added interest in Jasper Johns house because it belonged to Jasper Johns? What therefore could his house add to the conversation regarding his work?

Anika explores polish shop fronts through these exquisite models and her wonderful drawings.

Adrian McNeil’s sinister photographs tackle tricky ideas on immigration through the arrival of non native plants and their impact upon the ecosystem of their new destination. Making apparent the underlying sense of threat that immigration is all too often portrayed in the media as.

This is a fascinating exhibition introducing artists at the beginning of their careers. Amelia’s Magazine throughly recommends a visit to Hewitt Street before July 24th.

SGP 2010-Collosillyum
Hay bales for seating in the Collosillyum area. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

If Latitude is a well planned amble between the South Bank, buy information pills ICA, store Royal Opera House and Somerset House with added sheep, then Secret Garden Party is the biggest most eccentric three day party in the grounds of a country mansion you could never dream of. Two more diverse festivals you could not imagine.

SGP 2010-Blimp
The Party Blimp – accessible only by boat.

Music is just one of the elements that make up the Secret Garden Party experience, surely the only festival where the main acts are liable to be upstaged by a death-defying wheelchair race or a mud wrestling fight. Because the stages are not the central focus there is always space to sit down or to dance, and the natural layout of the main stage in particular means that there’s always space to see the bands properly – which makes for a far more comfortable viewing experience than at most festivals. Despite a distinct lack of well known bands the quality of music on the line up is never low, and as usual I discovered lots of great new music.

SGP 2010-couple by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-frog by Amelia Gregory

My favourite Secret Garden Party stage is built into the side of a huge tree. This year there were giant eyeballs sewn into the back and the front was made up to look like the prow of a ship, complete with a naked female figurehead. Shortly before the prow had been swung into destruction by inebriated climbing mammals Animal Kingdom took to the good ship Where the Wild Things Are with a beatific set of melodic songs that have gleaned comparisons to Radiohead, Sigur Ros and Coldplay.

SGP 2010-Animal Kingdom by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-girls bust by Amelia Gregory
Animal Kingdom by Holly Exley
Animal Kingdom by Holly Exley.

Over in the geodesic rave dome – AKA the Remix Bubble – the Lake District’s finest Burn the Negative were proving to a small but highly motivated crowd (including security on balloons) that danceable indie electro doesn’t just come out of the big cities.

Alexis-West-Burn-the-Negative
Burn the Negative by Alexis West.

Secret Garden Party has expanded massively since I first came in 2004, and the more idiosyncratic attractions are now linked to the main arena by a floating bridge that caused much swaying hilarity on every crossing. As a mid afternoon treat I decided to get my toes nibbled by some miniature carp from Turkey.

SGP 2010-Fish Therapy
Yes that’s me. White legs! Photography by Tim Adey.

The Doctor Fish has been used for centuries to cure skin ailments, and they were particularly excited by my friend Jemima’s Psoriasis. It was a very soothing experience, and my skin felt notably softer afterwards. This is the first time this particular species of fish have been imported into the UK and entrepreneur Keon Petre hopes to open a range of fish nibbling franchises.

SGP 2010-Emma Ware by Amelia Gregory
Emma Ware.

A huge pink tent housed stalls from a carefully picked range of artists and designers including Spitalfields based illustrator Dan Hillier and jeweller Emma Ware, who makes gorgeous contemporary pieces from recycled inner tubes. Expect to hear more about her designs on this blog soon.

Abi Daker - Fionn Regan
Fionn Regan by Abigail Daker.

Fionn Regan was the perfect treat for a sunny day, following in the traditional mould of talented Irish folk singers with added 80s McEnroe hair band action. Never a bad thing in my book.

SGP 10-baby by Amelia Gregory
Steve Mason by Katherine Tromans
Steve Mason by Katherine Tromans.

I knew there was a reason I felt immediately warm towards main stage act Steve Mason despite having no clue who he was – turns out he was one half of the excellent Beta Band. And anyone who twitters about Ian Tomlinson is even better in my books. Musicians with a conscience – we need more of them.

emma_block_marina_&_the_diamonds
Marina and the Diamonds by Emma Block.

I’ve been a big fan of hot tip Marina and the Diamonds for some time now, but we missed most of her set whilst enjoying the most wonderful three course dinner at the Soulf Fire restaurant, housed in three yurts (read my full review here). Instead we caught the last few songs, which still gave me ample time to admire her vermillion lips and whippet thin waist: I can now confirm that she is every bit as sexy in the flesh as she comes across on record.

SGP 2010-Marina and the Diamonds by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-Marina and the Diamonds by Amelia Gregory

Afterwards we were treated to some nefarious circus fun from Down Under – including pubic angle-grinding, sword swallowing and weights hooked into eyelids. Tasteful.

SGP 2010-angle grinder circus by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-circus by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-circus eyeball lift by Amelia Gregory

I featured the Infadels way back in issue 04 of Amelia’s Magazine in 2005, and they’ve been steadily plugging away ever since. I haven’t heard any recent albums but they seemed quite happy to play lots of the old tunes, which perfectly suited the late night party crowd.

infadels by harriet gray
Infadels by Harriet Gray.

Most amusingly they seem to have acquired a female joint lead vocalist on one of their most famous tunes. Maybe all ageing bands will one day invite drunk negligee-wearing teenagers on board to spice things up. Oh hang on, it’s already become a trend… (see Saturday’s blog…)

SGP 2010-Infadels by Amelia Gregory

Abby-Wright-The-Delays
The Delays by Abby Wright.

Last up on Where the Wild Things Are at gone 1am the glitter-covered Delays played a fantastically energetic set to a shockingly small crowd. “Let’s see some shoulder action,” they pleaded. “It’s not a festival without it.” Several people obligingly mounted their friends with rapidity. I hope one day this vastly underrated band finds the success they deserve. Catch our recent interview with them here.

SGP 10-aliens by Amelia Gregory
SGP 10-robot mime by Amelia Gregory

Remember, there’s more where this came from – you can read about Saturday’s events here.

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,Abigail Daker, ,Alexis West, ,Animal Kingdom, ,Beta Band, ,bikes, ,Burn the Negative, ,Dan Hillier, ,Delays, ,Emma Block, ,Emma Ware, ,Fionn Regan, ,Fish Therapy, ,Harriet Gray, ,Holly Exley, ,Infadels, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Secret Garden Party, ,Soul Fire Restaurant, ,Steve Mason, ,Tim Adey, ,Where the Wild Things Are

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Secret Garden Party 2010: Friday Review

Hidden in a mini industrial estate just off Curtain Road, sales Payne Shurvell opens their inaugural exhibition “A Bright and Guilty Place” in an old light factory. The gallery directors introduce thirteen artists’ -who are either unrepresented or have yet to show in London- unique approaches to the subject of mapping and place. The word introduction is mentioned as the gallery presents an idea of each individual’s practice – rather than claiming to represent their overture in it’s entirety. What is successful about this show is that it does not feel as if the curators have placed a theme on the artists rather they have found 13 separate practices that uniquely represent mapping and place.

Ideas touch upon psycho-geography, cheapest and that endless human drive to find our place in the world – either through art or religion these questions are perennial.
Art offers a respite from the ever distance shortening communication provided by the internet. Maps provide a way of documenting economic prowess, find failure or entrapment as represented by Dan Hays replication of page 62 of the London A-Z focusing on the financial capital of London Canary Wharf.

Maps can also be used to document the trails of immigration, notably failed attempts or the endless drift of those people designated as unwanted. Lucy Wood demonstrates the paths of Mexicans who have attempted to cross the border and in worse cases died trying.

Andrew Curtis plays with ideas of suburbia with his eary prints of houses with trees printed over them…

Ideas of place are explored with Ian W’s print of the studios Jasper Johns inhabited during his time in New York – What makes a house a home? What makes a home important is it who lives there – is there added interest in Jasper Johns house because it belonged to Jasper Johns? What therefore could his house add to the conversation regarding his work?

Anika explores polish shop fronts through these exquisite models and her wonderful drawings.

Adrian McNeil’s sinister photographs tackle tricky ideas on immigration through the arrival of non native plants and their impact upon the ecosystem of their new destination. Making apparent the underlying sense of threat that immigration is all too often portrayed in the media as.

The world is full of misscommunication. History lessons are full of lessons that wars could have been stopped if only communication had been clearer. Frank Selby tackles this problem in his drawing “Stop the next next War War”.

This is a fascinating exhibition introducing artists at the beginning of their careers. Amelia’s Magazine throughly recommends a visit to Hewitt Street before July 24th.

The world is full of misscommunication. History lessons are full of lessons that wars could have been stopped if only communication had been clearer. Frank Selby tackles this problem in his drawing “Stop the next next War War”.

Hidden in a mini industrial estate just off Curtain Road, decease Payne Shurvell opens their inaugural exhibition “A Bright and Guilty Place” in an old light factory. The gallery directors introduce thirteen artists’ -who are either unrepresented or have yet to show in London- unique approaches to the subject of mapping and place. The word introduction is mentioned as the gallery presents an idea of each individual’s practice – rather than claiming to represent their overture in it’s entirety. What is successful about this show is that it does not feel as if the curators have placed a theme on the artists rather they have found 13 separate practices that uniquely represent mapping and place.

Derek Ogbourne’s Hope and Glory

Ideas touch upon psycho-geography, health and that endless human drive to find our place in the world – either through art or religion these questions are perennial.
Art offers a respite from the ever distance shortening communication provided by the internet. Maps provide a way of documenting economic prowess, failure or entrapment as represented by Dan Hays replication of page 62 of the London A-Z focusing on the financial capital of London Canary Wharf.

Maps can also be used to document the trails of immigration, notably failed attempts or the endless drift of those people designated as unwanted. Lucy Wood demonstrates the paths of Mexicans who have attempted to cross the border and in worse cases died trying.

Andrew Curtis plays with ideas of suburbia with his eary prints of houses with trees printed over them…

Ideas of place are explored with Ian W’s print of the studios Jasper Johns inhabited during his time in New York – What makes a house a home? What makes a home important is it who lives there – is there added interest in Jasper Johns house because it belonged to Jasper Johns? What therefore could his house add to the conversation regarding his work?

Anika explores polish shop fronts through these exquisite models and her wonderful drawings.

Adrian McNeil’s sinister photographs tackle tricky ideas on immigration through the arrival of non native plants and their impact upon the ecosystem of their new destination. Making apparent the underlying sense of threat that immigration is all too often portrayed in the media as.

This is a fascinating exhibition introducing artists at the beginning of their careers. Amelia’s Magazine throughly recommends a visit to Hewitt Street before July 24th.

The world is full of misscommunication. History lessons are full of lessons that wars could have been stopped if only communication had been clearer. Frank Selby tackles this problem in his drawing “Stop the next next War War”.

Hidden in a mini industrial estate just off Curtain Road, search Payne Shurvell opens their inaugural exhibition “A Bright and Guilty Place” in an old light factory. The gallery directors introduce thirteen artists’ -who are either unrepresented or have yet to show in London- unique approaches to the subject of mapping and place. The word introduction is mentioned as the gallery presents an idea of each individual’s practice – rather than claiming to represent their overture in it’s entirety. What is successful about this show is that it does not feel as if the curators have placed a theme on the artists rather they have found 13 separate practices that uniquely represent mapping and place.

Derek Ogbourne’s Hope and Glory

Ideas touch upon psycho-geography, and and that endless human drive to find our place in the world – either through art or religion these questions are perennial.
Art offers a respite from the ever distance shortening communication provided by the internet. Maps provide a way of documenting economic prowess, viagra buy failure or entrapment as represented by Dan Hays replication of page 62 of the London A-Z focusing on the financial capital of London Canary Wharf.

Maps can also be used to document the trails of immigration, notably failed attempts or the endless drift of those people designated as unwanted. Lucy Wood demonstrates the paths of Mexicans who have attempted to cross the border and in worse cases died trying.

Andrew Curtis plays with ideas of suburbia with his eary prints of houses with trees printed over them…

Ideas of place are explored with Ian W’s print of the studios Jasper Johns inhabited during his time in New York – What makes a house a home? What makes a home important is it who lives there – is there added interest in Jasper Johns house because it belonged to Jasper Johns? What therefore could his house add to the conversation regarding his work?

Anika explores polish shop fronts through these exquisite models and her wonderful drawings.

Adrian McNeil’s sinister photographs tackle tricky ideas on immigration through the arrival of non native plants and their impact upon the ecosystem of their new destination. Making apparent the underlying sense of threat that immigration is all too often portrayed in the media as.

This is a fascinating exhibition introducing artists at the beginning of their careers. Amelia’s Magazine throughly recommends a visit to Hewitt Street before July 24th.

SGP 2010-Collosillyum
Hay bales for seating in the Collosillyum area. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

If Latitude is a well planned amble between the South Bank, buy information pills ICA, store Royal Opera House and Somerset House with added sheep, then Secret Garden Party is the biggest most eccentric three day party in the grounds of a country mansion you could never dream of. Two more diverse festivals you could not imagine.

SGP 2010-Blimp
The Party Blimp – accessible only by boat.

Music is just one of the elements that make up the Secret Garden Party experience, surely the only festival where the main acts are liable to be upstaged by a death-defying wheelchair race or a mud wrestling fight. Because the stages are not the central focus there is always space to sit down or to dance, and the natural layout of the main stage in particular means that there’s always space to see the bands properly – which makes for a far more comfortable viewing experience than at most festivals. Despite a distinct lack of well known bands the quality of music on the line up is never low, and as usual I discovered lots of great new music.

SGP 2010-couple by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-frog by Amelia Gregory

My favourite Secret Garden Party stage is built into the side of a huge tree. This year there were giant eyeballs sewn into the back and the front was made up to look like the prow of a ship, complete with a naked female figurehead. Shortly before the prow had been swung into destruction by inebriated climbing mammals Animal Kingdom took to the good ship Where the Wild Things Are with a beatific set of melodic songs that have gleaned comparisons to Radiohead, Sigur Ros and Coldplay.

SGP 2010-Animal Kingdom by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-girls bust by Amelia Gregory
Animal Kingdom by Holly Exley
Animal Kingdom by Holly Exley.

Over in the geodesic rave dome – AKA the Remix Bubble – the Lake District’s finest Burn the Negative were proving to a small but highly motivated crowd (including security on balloons) that danceable indie electro doesn’t just come out of the big cities.

Alexis-West-Burn-the-Negative
Burn the Negative by Alexis West.

Secret Garden Party has expanded massively since I first came in 2004, and the more idiosyncratic attractions are now linked to the main arena by a floating bridge that caused much swaying hilarity on every crossing. As a mid afternoon treat I decided to get my toes nibbled by some miniature carp from Turkey.

SGP 2010-Fish Therapy
Yes that’s me. White legs! Photography by Tim Adey.

The Doctor Fish has been used for centuries to cure skin ailments, and they were particularly excited by my friend Jemima’s Psoriasis. It was a very soothing experience, and my skin felt notably softer afterwards. This is the first time this particular species of fish have been imported into the UK and entrepreneur Keon Petre hopes to open a range of fish nibbling franchises.

SGP 2010-Emma Ware by Amelia Gregory
Emma Ware.

A huge pink tent housed stalls from a carefully picked range of artists and designers including Spitalfields based illustrator Dan Hillier and jeweller Emma Ware, who makes gorgeous contemporary pieces from recycled inner tubes. Expect to hear more about her designs on this blog soon.

Abi Daker - Fionn Regan
Fionn Regan by Abigail Daker.

Fionn Regan was the perfect treat for a sunny day, following in the traditional mould of talented Irish folk singers with added 80s McEnroe hair band action. Never a bad thing in my book.

SGP 10-baby by Amelia Gregory
Steve Mason by Katherine Tromans
Steve Mason by Katherine Tromans.

I knew there was a reason I felt immediately warm towards main stage act Steve Mason despite having no clue who he was – turns out he was one half of the excellent Beta Band. And anyone who twitters about Ian Tomlinson is even better in my books. Musicians with a conscience – we need more of them.

emma_block_marina_&_the_diamonds
Marina and the Diamonds by Emma Block.

I’ve been a big fan of hot tip Marina and the Diamonds for some time now, but we missed most of her set whilst enjoying the most wonderful three course dinner at the Soulf Fire restaurant, housed in three yurts (read my full review here). Instead we caught the last few songs, which still gave me ample time to admire her vermillion lips and whippet thin waist: I can now confirm that she is every bit as sexy in the flesh as she comes across on record.

SGP 2010-Marina and the Diamonds by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-Marina and the Diamonds by Amelia Gregory

Afterwards we were treated to some nefarious circus fun from Down Under – including pubic angle-grinding, sword swallowing and weights hooked into eyelids. Tasteful.

SGP 2010-angle grinder circus by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-circus by Amelia Gregory
SGP 2010-circus eyeball lift by Amelia Gregory

I featured the Infadels way back in issue 04 of Amelia’s Magazine in 2005, and they’ve been steadily plugging away ever since. I haven’t heard any recent albums but they seemed quite happy to play lots of the old tunes, which perfectly suited the late night party crowd.

infadels by harriet gray
Infadels by Harriet Gray.

Most amusingly they seem to have acquired a female joint lead vocalist on one of their most famous tunes. Maybe all ageing bands will one day invite drunk negligee-wearing teenagers on board to spice things up. Oh hang on, it’s already become a trend… (see Saturday’s blog…)

SGP 2010-Infadels by Amelia Gregory

Abby-Wright-The-Delays
The Delays by Abby Wright.

Last up on Where the Wild Things Are at gone 1am the glitter-covered Delays played a fantastically energetic set to a shockingly small crowd. “Let’s see some shoulder action,” they pleaded. “It’s not a festival without it.” Several people obligingly mounted their friends with rapidity. I hope one day this vastly underrated band finds the success they deserve. Catch our recent interview with them here.

SGP 10-aliens by Amelia Gregory
SGP 10-robot mime by Amelia Gregory

Remember, there’s more where this came from – you can read about Saturday’s events here.

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,Abigail Daker, ,Alexis West, ,Animal Kingdom, ,Beta Band, ,bikes, ,Burn the Negative, ,Dan Hillier, ,Delays, ,Emma Block, ,Emma Ware, ,Fionn Regan, ,Fish Therapy, ,Harriet Gray, ,Holly Exley, ,Infadels, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Secret Garden Party, ,Soul Fire Restaurant, ,Steve Mason, ,Tim Adey, ,Where the Wild Things Are

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with artist and illustrator Pete Fowler


Hot Chip – I Feel Better (close up)

Two soft-bodied beasts wearing headphones hold onto each other tightly as sinister robotic-looking owls swoop over them. Two creatures – which look like giant armadillos with razor sharp fangs and claws – peer at the two lost souls with sleepy but watchful eyes. This fantastical world illuminated with shades of deep blues and pinks instills in them fear but their ipod drowns out the eerie sound of their surroundings; they have each other and that’s all that matters…


Hot Chip – I Feel Better

This is Pete Fowler’s wonderfully quirky window display currently exhibiting at Selfridges, generic inspired by Hot Chip’s recent hit single ‘I Feel Better’. Fowler’s installation is one of ten window designs for a show collectively entitled ‘Sounds of the Mind’, no rx launched to celebrate the music festival season. On display are exhibits by some of the hottest music acts of the moment, including Florence and The Machine, Dizzee Rascal, Empire of the Sun, Paloma Faith and Marina and the Diamonds.


Title window display

Having viewed all ten windows, which are pretty impressive in their entirety, my personal favourite was Pete Fowler’s. Call me a big kid but there is something incredibly sweet, romantic, childish and charming about colours and the characters, which made me want to break the window and join the beasts in a group hug!

I caught up with Pete, illustrator-and-monster-creator-extraordinaire, to find out more about the project and the inspiration behind those owls…

How did you and Hot Chip end up collaborating on this piece?
I’ve known Al (Doyle) from the band for a while so he’s quite familiar with my work. When this project came up, Al thought it would suit my style so he asked if I might be interested in coming up with some ideas, which I was chuffed about. We talked over a couple of themes and then I went off to sketch a few initial designs.

What were the key themes from the song that you used for inspiration?
To me, the record is an unusual love song about a couple being together, but the situation or outside world being against them. With the general design, I wanted to go with the idea of two beasts locked together in an embrace in a place where the surroundings were a bit scary but fantastical. I picked up on the vibrancy of the sounds and used mainly pinks and dark purples to create a deep-coloured palette to reflect this. I used some of the lyrics in the song to help me focus and visualise my ideas, which is where, somehow, the owls came in!

How many ideas did you come up with before you settled on the current display and were there many variations between the sketches?
I started with one initial idea which just evolved, but the basic concept remained pretty much the same. I was lucky that the idea was so well-received straight off the bat! Most of the changes were made once the image was worked up on the computer, which just involved adjusting the scale and positioning all of the elements that make up the window. Everything I do starts with a sketch – when I translate this onto illustrator, I can start to manipulate the drawing.


Sketch of Hot Chip’s ‘I Feel Better’ window display

What do you think this project is trying to achieve?
I think it’s a good move for a shop to be so open to the ideas of bands and designers. In this case, they allowed a lot of creative freedom and pretty much handed over their windows! Ultimately, I think it’s a positive move for them as all these bands are hot right now. I guess it has a lot to do with them staying in the loop and keeping up to scratch.


What other window displays did you particularly like and why?

I liked Empire of the Sun’s display as it’s got quite a flamboyant and cosmic-feel to which is reflective of their music. I also liked Dizzee Rascal’s display with the cartoon-style title background opening and the audacious insert of the video in the middle. It was very entertaining because the focus was all on him; simple and pretty much to the point!


Empire of the Sun – Walking On A Dream

Are there any other songs you’d like to add your own artistic slant to?
Something really long and cosmic perhaps. Maybe Space Woman by Herman’s Rocket or Lovemachine by Supermax from the 1970s. It would probably make quite a sleazy window though…

Monsters often feature in your work – why is this?
I’ve always been into supernatural things. As I was growing up, I definitely had a fascination with Big Foot, the Loch Ness Monster and the exaggerated characters found in comics, which I think have all influenced by work to some extent. I love the idea of strange beasts and monsters. I think it’s because there are no rules or limits when it comes to them; only those you set yourself whilst you’re playing god. It’s an environment where you can fit in all your quirks, interests and flights of fantasy.

What song best describes you?
The Great Egg Race (Theme) by Denton & Cook (that’s off the top of my head). It’s a bit weird, slightly geeky and a bit disco-y, with a smile on its face!

Pete Fowler’s ‘I Feel Better’ display in collaboration with Hot Chip and a collection of other song-inspired windows (see below) will be running until the 14th June at Selfridges, Oxford Street, London, W1.


Dizzee Rascal – Bonkers


Florence and The Machine – Cosmic Love


Marina and the diamonds – I Am Not A Robot


Paloma Faith – Do You Want The Truth, Or Something Beautiful


The Big Pink – A Brief History of Love


The XX – Stars


Charlotte Gainsbourg – Heaven Can Wait


The Drums – Best Friend

All photography by Andrew Meredith

Categories ,Andrew Meredith, ,Big Foot, ,Charlotte Gainsbourg, ,Denton and Cook, ,dizzee rascal, ,Empire of the Sun, ,Florence and The Machine, ,Hot Chip, ,Kat Phan, ,Loch Ness Monster, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,paloma faith, ,Pete Fowler, ,Selfridges, ,Sounds of the Mind, ,the big pink, ,the drums, ,The XX

Similar Posts: