Lulu Kennedy – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | My adventures at Practicum: British Fashion, put together by the British Council in Moscow

The Moscow Practicum: British Fashion crew in Red Square. All photography by Amelia Gregory. (unless I am in the pic that is)

Just over a week ago I travelled to Moscow with the British Council to talk to a group of young fashion designers from across Europe as part of a educational program called Practicum: British Fashion. I travelled from the UK with Toby Meadows, pilule who offers advice to fashion designers with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise, sales and with Janine Passley, approved an expert in buying and sustainability practices for EI8HT who consults for ASOS.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011

With Toby Meadows, Janine Passley and Michael Salac.

It was the first time that I have flown in nearly three years. R/H the label travelled from Finland by train to reduce their carbon footprint, but unfortunately it was just that little bit too far for me to do the same…

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 with Janine Passley and Clare Lopeman
With Janine Passley and Clare Lopeman

It’s the second time I’ve been to Moscow: the first time having been in 2007 when I went there to discover up and coming creatives for issue 8 of Amelia’s Magazine. It takes under 5 hours to fly there, which seems remarkably close for a culture that is so very different from our own.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 with Evgenia Gerasimova
Practicum: British Fashion 2011 was put together by Evgenia Gerasimova, seen here introducing the programme.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Kristian Steinberg
Kristian Steinberg gives us his pitch.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Toby Meadows
Toby Meadows in front of a giant plastic bag sculpture in the Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture.

Michael Salac of Blow PR joined us the next day, as did Clare Lopeman, a fashion designer and head of fashion at the British Higher School of Art and Design. Practicum: British Fashion took place in a wonderful old industrial complex known as the Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture, a huge hall that was built in 1926 as a bus garage and that now houses exhibitions, a cafe, lecture halls and a fantastic bookshop.

Moscow The Garage Centre of Contemporary Culture
Moscow’s The Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Toby Meadows
We ate a lot of canapes!

Together we made up a hopefully non scary panel of “experts” who listened to short pitches from the designers, who came from Russia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Poland, Finland, Denmark, Estonia and Latvia. We then offered our opinions and advice on how to improve their businesses – in my case this invariably meant encouraging sustainable practice and prompting them to improve their online presence. The next day it was our turn to lecture on our expert subjects, in my case, How to produce good promotional material that will attract editorial coverage in magazines, and how to promote your brand successfully on social media. Just some of my favourite subjects!

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Michael Salac
Practicum: British Fashion lecture with Michael Salac

Moscow British Council Hede Kerstin Luik
Hede Kerstin Luik from the British Council in Estonia

I like teaching and lecturing so I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and it was lovely that so many people came up to me afterwards to tell me how inspired they were. I took loads of postcards with me and they all got taken which I take as a good sign!

Moscow British Council-after my talk

But what was undoubtedly the most brilliant part of the whole experience was the opportunity to meet lots of wonderfully talented people who are doing really interesting things in their own countries. Sitting at my computer all day every day I sometimes forget that I am very much a people person at heart, and I enjoy hanging out with other people. As is often the case at these kind of events some of the most important networking was done outside of official hours, when we were chatting at the hotel bar or exploring the extremely expensive rooftop bar at the Radisson Hotel which is housed in one of Moscow’s famous Seven Sisters – laughing as we all squished into the tiny lift to zoom up to the 29th floor, and then coming straight back down again when we discovered how expensive it was.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion Red Square

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion Red Square

The incredibly fancy Radisson toilets…

We also got the opportunity to attend one of the many Russian Fashion Weeks, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, for which the British Council had flown over Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East to showcase three of her star designers: Marios Schwab, Louise Gray and James Long.

Moscow British Council-russian fashion week

At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, sponsored by, ahem, Tupperware.

Moscow BC 2011-partying after fashion week
Partying after fashion week shenanigans.

I’ll be writing up that experience in a separate blog post. In the meantime here are a bunch of pictures from my time in Moscow… fun times indeed. As a result it looks as though I will be attending Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland in Lodz in early May 2011. Thankyou so much Evgenia Gerasimova and the British Council!

Moscow Red SQUARE soldiers
Soldiers in Red Square.

Moscow Dior advertising
Giant Dior advertising.

Moscow BCmy legs
My legs in the lift.

Moscow BC 2011-Michael and Emilia of R/H
Michael of Blow and Emilia of R/H

Moscow BC 2011-Lovely knitwear in Solyanka
Lovely knitwear in the shop at the Solyanka nightclub.

Moscow BC 2011-Red Square
Red Square

Moscow BC 2011-Russian Dolls
Lots of Russian dolls

Moscow BC 2011-Toby Meadows on the Metro
Toby Meadows on the Metro

Moscow BC 2011-Michael Salac and Janine Passley
Michael Salac and Janine Passley on the Metro

Moscow BC 2011-Metro

Moscow British Council-Amelia Gregory with cocktail
Enjoying an EXTREMELY expensive Cherry Pepper cocktail – like a meal in one!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday April 12th, 2011 10:49 am

Categories ,1926, ,ASOS, ,Blow PR, ,British Council, ,British Higher School of Art and Design, ,Carbon footprint, ,Centre for Contemporary Culture, ,Centre for Fashion Enterprise, ,Clare Lopeman, ,D.EFECT, ,Denmark, ,EI8HT, ,Estonia, ,Evgenia Gerasimova, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week, ,finland, ,Fortytwo, ,garage, ,James Long, ,Janine Passley, ,Kristian Steinberg, ,Latvia, ,Lisa Shahno, ,Lodz, ,Louise Gray, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Mareunrol’s, ,Marios Schwab, ,Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, ,Michael Salac, ,Michaela Mazalanova, ,Moscow, ,Nadya Nurieva, ,Networking, ,poland, ,Practicum: British Fashion, ,R/H, ,R/H the label, ,Radisson, ,Red Square, ,Russia!, ,Seven Sisters, ,Slovakia, ,Slovenia, ,Social Networking, ,Soulland, ,sustainability, ,Toby Meadows, ,Tupperware

Amelia’s Magazine | Pre- London Fashion Week S/S 2011 On Schedule Womenswear, Part One: New Designers

London Fashion Week Illustration by teabelle

This September London Fashion Week enters the courtyard of Somerset House for its third season. Over the next week Amelia’s Magazine will be previewing both the on and off schedules, viagra 40mg naming the designers to firmly keep your eyes on.

For our first preview we have selected designers who have been showing solo for less than six seasons and have already caused quite a stir within the fashion industry.

Hannah Marshall

You may already be aware of Hannah Marshall’s darkly bold shapes without being aware that you are watching a Hannah Marshall in Florence and the Machine’s music video: The Drumming Song. As an introduction it does not prepare you for the exquisite inkiness of Marshall’s colour palate or embrace of the female figure her clothes propose.

Hannah Marshall by Naomi Law

Watching her S/S 2010 show in an old post office building in Holborn, look was breathtaking. As the models stalked through the space, viagra approved the inky blue effervesced in the dim lighting. Marshall’s A/W 2010 named ‘An Army of Me’ was a continuation of stark cuts along the shoulders, waists enhanced or lost by the cut of jacket alongside bodycon dresses produced in luscious velvet.

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou has been experimenting with the boundary pushing possibilities of digital print since her A/W show 2009. The occasional harshness of the prints are softened through Katrantzou’s application of the technique to silk.

The collections are a celebration of the decorative and her clothes are littered with references to the excess of the Baroque or the Rocco periods of art and architectural history.

Mary Katrantzou by Meeralee

However it would be a mistake to confuse these prints as a gimmick, Katrantzou’s interest spreads to the cut of the dress, producing a series of structural tailoring which serve embellish the texture of her designs from short frocks to elegant gowns. Amelia’s Magazine welcomes the break from the increasing dominance of minimalism.

Michael van der Ham

Michael Van Der Ham’s described his a/w 2010 collection of dresses as 3D collages, through which multiple fashion references were stated by an insatiable contrast of colours, fabrics and textures. During graduate season earlier this year his design influence could be felt across the catwalks. What will s/s 2011 bring for van der Haam?

Michael van der Ham by Lulu Biazus

Louise Gray

Central Saint Martins MA Graduate, Louise Gray was a recipient of Lulu Kennedy’s and Fashion East’s ever on the button talent for spotting innovative designers. Gray showed with Fashion East for three seasons, before staging solo presentations with the support of NewGen.

A Louise Gray exhibition begins life at London Fashion Week almost completely bare, before exploding in riotious colour as the exquisite detritus from her presentations fill the space. The clothes, a combination of traditional stitch and embroidery create intriguing collections.

Louise Gray by Jessica Stokes

Amelia’s Magazine’s are delighted by Gray’s decision to stage the collection on a catwalk at On|Off for S/S 2011.

David Koma and Holly Fulton

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton and David Koma. will share a catwalk, Amelia’s Magazine have been watching Koma since his debut as Fashion Scout’s merit winner a year ago this September and cannot wait to see what the designer holds in store.

David Koma by Stuart Whitton

Holly Fulton first blasted onto the scene as part of Fashion East for two seasons, before launching her successful solo a/w 10 collection at London Fashion Week in February 2010. Fulton’s monochromatic colour palate was interspersed with a healthy dose of pop art.

Holly Fulton by Francesca Bourne

The clothes structure referenced the Fulton’s interest in off duty/on duty French daywear crossed with the elegance of Dr Zavargo. Amelia’s Magazine found ourselves bewitched by the bold graphic prints bordering on the illustrative that adorned the collection.

Fashion East

For ten incredible years Fashion East have been at the forefront of spotting and supporting graduates who develop into ‘the’ sought-after designers of our generation.

Heikki by Gemma Randall

This year’s crop are as delectable as ever as Lulu Kennedy introduces Saint Martins MA graduate Simone Rocha and fellow Royal College Graduates Felicity Brown and Heikki Salone.

The excitement of a Fashion East catwalk lies in their ability to reinvent what it is to be feminine and this season is no exception.

For a/w 2010 Heikki Salone presented the tomboy, dressed in black cobwebbed knitwear, that you would wear until it crumbles finished with DM boots. A look -potentially- for fans of Janey from MTV’s hit TV series Daria.

Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha by Gareth A Hopkins

Felicity Brown’s delectable designs are a lesson in vibrant romanticism, a feat not surprising considering her training at Alberta Ferretti, Loewe, Lanvin and Mulberry.

In contrast Simone Rocha’s monochrome MA collection displayed structured modern cuts interspersed with a playful nod towards femininity by her inclusion of netted fuchsia headpieces.

Amelia’s Magazine wait with baited breath to see all of the aforementioned designers collections for s/s 2011.

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Tuesday September 7th, 2010 4:00 pm

Categories ,BFC, ,David Koma, ,Fashion East, ,Felicity Brown, ,Francesca Bourne, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Randall, ,Hannah Marshall, ,Heikki Salone, ,Holly Fulton, ,Jessica Stokes, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Gray, ,Lulu Biazus, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Meeralee, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Naomi Law, ,On Schedule, ,Simone Rocha, ,Stuart Whitton, ,Teabell, ,teabelle

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Menswear A/W 2010: Morgan Allen Oliver

Illustration by Katie Harnett

The ever excellent Fashion East menswear installations were to be found in the East Wing of Somerset house on the last day of London Fashion Week. A space provided to enable up and coming menswear designers the opportunity to present their collections.

In the first room Amelia’s Magazine came upon Morgan Allen Oliver’s knitted delights, illness (Oliver has previously featured on our pages, and we were keen to see this talented knitwear designer present at Fashion East).

Upon graduation from the Fashion MA Central Saint Martins in 2009, Morgan Allen Oliver has provided knits for Christopher Shannon, Michael van der Ham, Natascha Stolle and Hannah Taylor.

The heads accompanying the clothes were made by Max Pearmain

For Autumn Winter 2010 Morgan continues his exploration into elegantly graphic knitwear, producing instantly desirable designs to be treasured and saved for that long lost idea of sunday best.

Morgan Allen Oliver is a name to watch.

For full coverage of the menswear installation please see the following post.

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Friday February 26th, 2010 12:15 pm

Categories ,A/W10, ,Fashion East, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,Morgan Allen Oliver

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: James Long

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

For Spring Summer 2011 James Long, more about Royal College of Art graduate (fellow Alumni are Carolyn Massey and Erdem) changed track. The military references were replaced by a particular idea of American Outsiders perpetuated by Indie filmmaking. Famed for beautiful leatherwork, cost the designer considerate handling and subtle juxtaposition of materials is evident no matter what the season.

Whereas Spring Summer 2010 provided overtones of unique survival wear in a land desecrated by an as-of-yet unknown environmental atrocity. Spring Summer 2011 replaced action man with louche Woodstock hippy, troche a look also represented this season by JW Anderson.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

After a prolonged absence, wool has firmly re-established itself across the catwalks. For Long’s paint splattered leather came interspersed with block coloured loose knits or dipped dyed swatches. Whilst the collections are often beautiful interpretations of the possibilities within menswear. There was -of course- the ubiquitous nod to the important role Denim has played in the construction of male identity. Long’s use of extra light denim emulated his interest in the film, My Own Private Idaho.

Autumn Winter 2010 saw Long successfully collaborate with experimental film maker, Bruce La Bruce whose blood splattered prints adorned Long’s designs. For Spring Summer 2011, the exquisitely printed leather was outcome from a chance meeting between the designer and artist Ethan Cook (At Woodstock!) and their discovery of a shared interest in materiality.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

The clothes of James Long appear to reside in thoughts of elsewhere, perhaps the occasionally dreary London Landscape lends itself well to the inspirational daydream.

Much has been made of the muted atmosphere year that surrounded the Menswear S/S 2011 collections, an atmosphere that seems out of kilter with the strength of collections being produced by young designers for whom menswear is very much an open concept. More noise next year please and for more reviews on menswear check out Amelia’s Magazine Fashion Archive.

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Monday October 4th, 2010 12:11 pm

Categories ,Bruce La Bruce, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Erdem, ,Ethan Cook, ,Fashion East, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,James Long, ,JW Anderson, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,menswear, ,Royal College of Art, ,The Road, ,Woodstock

Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – JW Anderson S/S 2010 – Warriors

Jonathan Anderson continued the exotic references under his label JW Anderson, and who looked to the masculine arenas of basketball uniforms, approved New York street culture from the 70s and tribal warriors to inform his incredibly diverse designs.

A largely black collection that gave way to white coupled with two pairs of iridescent blue trousers, adiposity the warrior influence manifested with cuffs, hand-beaded grass skirts and hoop earrings, whilst bomber jackets, harem trousers, fez hats and light cardigans all managed to occupy the same space.

Whilst the press blurb told us that Anderson is interested in these symbols of masculinity, an interesting dialogue between masculinity and feminity was created by introducing elements of womenswear- through the use of long tops and double-woven silk trousers and coats.

It was a beautifully tempered collection that of course drew strength from more eye-popping accessories, including a heavily studded belt that went round the waist of a gold-buttoned trench coat. Like Danielle Scutt a couple of days ago, Anderson answered the difficulty of taking wide cultural references by blending them perfectly, and making them accessible to just about anybody.

All photographs by Matt Bramford

Written by Jonno Ovans on Friday September 25th, 2009 2:32 pm

Categories ,JW Anderson S/S 2010, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,Somerset House, ,Warriors

Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Katie Eary S/S 2010: Skeletons

Most regular joes can barely get their heads round a manbag – well, more about they better get ready to accessorise to within an inch of their lives because that’s what the designers in the MAN show have got planned for them next summer, seek with a strong emphasis on cuffs, bags, shoes and, er, ribcages.

First out was Katie Eary with the collection ‘Naked Lunch’, taking its title from the seminal William Burroughs work, a text featuring a veritable rainbow of topics ranging from child murder to heroin (last season was built around Orwell’s Animal Farm). Eary’s collection was like an autopsy, with the inside of the body externalised and represented in fabric and metalwork.

The opulent gold bone and pearl ribcages (reminiscent of Shaun Leane) seemed a curious proposal to accessorise with our own insides, with drug use and the crumbling of the body inferred by the cartilage-like red rope shoulderpieces, human hair, frayed denim and heart and organ prints. It was a theme that Eary extended to maximum capacity in a real attention to the most frightening of details.

The models’ faces were often imprisoned in metal masks, chainmail and helmets making them resemble dystopic, nightmarish soldiers, with laser-cut brass sandals and gold skeletal hands completing an extraordinarily unsettling, inventive and ultimately transfixing vision. Yet it was a theatrical edge that was mitigated by a selection of completely wearable pieces, featuring tailored shorts, a studded leather jacket and graphic print t-shirts.

All photographs by Matt Bramford

Written by Jonno Ovans on Friday September 25th, 2009 10:10 am

Categories ,Fashion East, ,Katie Eary, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,Naked Lunch, ,Orwell, ,William S Boroughs

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Menswear A/W 2010: James Long

Illustration by Gemma Milly

James Long is bringing the boiler suit back, medical and he’s bringing it completed with printed references to the work of Bruce La Bruce, prostate an avante garde experimental film maker. Blood Stains made graphic (a recent exhibition of Wallpaper in Manchester featured wallpaper printed with splashed blood stains… one for avid CSI fans.)

The Spring Summer collection provided functional Utilitarian and at times, damn pretty work wear, thanks to a variety of appearances by the following fabrics; Denim, Corduroy, Cotton, Leather and feathers.

The collection was inspired by Laurie Anderson’s O Superman video.

The leather trousers from previous seasons made a welcome comeback, as did the continutation knitwear ranging from a fine knit to the chunkier variety.
James Long’s forte is his combination of contrasting materials.

The corduroy was welcomed in it’s sheer thickness. Whilst Long’s use of a deep navy blue provided a richness increasing the texture of the garments.

Illustration by Gemma Milly

Big Coats incase an environmental disaster does strike…

The finale, the future still looks bleak… but beautifully designed.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Tuesday March 2nd, 2010 3:25 pm

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Fashion East, ,James Long, ,London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2010, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man

Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Christopher Shannon – Scallies

Most regular joes can barely get their heads round a manbag – well, cost they better get ready to accessorise to within an inch of their lives because that’s what the designers in the MAN show have got planned for them next summer, shop with a strong emphasis on cuffs, viagra sale bags, shoes and, er, ribcages.

All photographs by Matt Bramford

Lastly were some more home-grown designs from Christopher Shannon, viagra who in keeping with previous collections sent out more “refined scallyism” (as he describes it) sportswear in a fresh, monochromatic colour palette of white and mint green. Again there were some ruddy brilliant bags on show, made in collaboration with Eastpak (we’d clocked them in the exhibition downstairs earlier, and nearly made off with one of them) in PVC and leather – both rucksacks and weekend bags.

The slicked up geezers swaggered down the runway clad in simple tees, shorts and tracksuits, and were made up in lashings of St Tropez with deliberately terrible tan lines. Who knew builders were such trend-setters? Simpler than Shannon’s previous offerings, it was guided by stripes and panels and featured three sheer, lightweight knits by Morgan Allen-Oliver – a great addition to a resolutely urban collection. A whirl around the world, then, from the MAN designers but as Shannon’s show closed with ‘Imagine’ by John Lennon, we were obviously finishing up a bit closer to home. Maybe they planned it that way!

In the evening we went to the MAN party in the vaults of Somerset House -the cocktails were strong and we hadn’t eaten any dinner. Needless to say, we had a good time.

All Photographs by Matt Bramford

Written by Jonno Ovans on Friday September 25th, 2009 5:59 pm

Categories ,Christopher Shannon, ,Fashion East, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,Somerset House

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Extra: Royal College of Art MA 2010

Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of extremely talented designers; from those reinventing menswear: James Long and Katie Eary to the individual take on womenswear by Michael van der Ham, hospital Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except perhaps, stomach Erdem) subsequently – pretty much straight away- showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

Zara Gorman’s graduated from the Milinery MA (a class of one) with her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, pilule wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear re-constructed the base elements of sportswear – the hoody, the sweatpants through incredibly luxurious materials (sadly this show was sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur – this is not a luxury material!). This was sportswear for the nouveau riche and a celebration of trashy aesthetics so loved by Eddie of Ab Fab…

The less media friendly elements of sportswear were visited on the RCA catwalk this year, Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear focused on the harder youth. Who displayed across t-shirts and jackets what in recent years has come to represent a particular type of English youth: the Pit Bull. The word ‘Chav’ being the inspiration for a couple of the 2010 MA graduates, this collection was a literal inspiration of a term created in the media. Both designers exaggerated how an idea of masculine dominance and power can be created through dress and aesthetic choice, playing with the viewers ability to associate certain items of dress with particular ideas surrounding masculinity.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

In contrast to Andersen and McWilliams, Trine Jensen provided a jovial take on menswear through his breathtaking sweaters covered with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops. A nod to the collector within us all.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular tightly woven knitwear sashed down the catwalk. The ankle grazing dresses set off by the muted colour block graphic coats, complete with exaggerated rounded shoulders. A nod perhaps to Louise Goldin experimental knitwear.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Poppy Cartwright’s white collection was skin tight and slightly trashy through the use of high shine trousers. The collection celebrated femininity and the female form through the cut of the dress falling tight across the body. The body emphasised through the sections cut out and the white on white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, the designer’s soft fabrics accentuating hips and shoulders.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with pastel pink dresses constructed through negative spacing.

Yuri Yufere dramatic feminine shapes were hardened by the narrow metal poles woven into the garments, creating a visible extension of the body. Pushing the material into that grey area of personal space which surrounds us all. This year’s 2010 graduates presented an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention currently occurring within the RCA’s Fashion Department. Amelia’s Magazine waits eagerly to see where they go next.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Friday June 18th, 2010 10:23 am

Categories ,Astrid Andersen, ,Cecile Bahnsen, ,Courtney McWilliams, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Frances Convey, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,James Long, ,Joseph Keirs, ,Katey Harvey, ,Katie Eary, ,knitwear, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,ma, ,Marnie Hollande, ,menswear, ,Michael van der Ham, ,millinery, ,Poppy Cartwright, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam McCoach, ,Victoria Stone, ,Womenswear, ,Yuri Yufere, ,Zara Gorman

Amelia’s Magazine | British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: Louise Gray

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke.

For almost the entire trip to Russia I was convinced that Louise Gray was another girl in the Fashion East entourage… it was only when she stepped out to take her bow on the catwalk that I realised she was the very tiny blonde girl in sky high heels. Louise is a textile designer at heart, remedy and her colourful vision has attracted an almost unfeasible amount of hype in recent years: I tried to see her show this season at London Fashion Week but arrived too late to get into the tiny On/Off venue. This was a great way to see her show in a slightly less pressurised arena, site in front of an audience who might not be quite so frantically enthusiastic about her amazing technicolour palette.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly the Eggs.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia Gregory
Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke

Her A/W 2011 collection lived up to expectations: all clashing primary tartans and devilishly playful spotty make up which had been slightly toned down from her London show. The first model strode down the catwalk with an amused smile upon her lips as well she might given that she was sporting a metallic blue ruffled shorts suit accessorised with helium heart balloons that drifted above her head. The range encompassed dresses, shirts and mohair coats, all worn with thigh high patent spotty boots. Peel away a few of the garments and there was usually one that could easily be worn alone by someone less daring than the Louise Gray archetype. A lot of fun, but one can only wonder what the much more conservative Russian audience thought of it all. Here’s hoping they went away inspired by the possibilities of what fashion can be.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia Gregory
Louise Gray A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.