Amelia’s Magazine | Inbar Spector: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I first came across an Inbar Spector dress on a ‘wall’ created by Gabby Young and Katie Antoniou’s Gabberdashery for Supermarket Sarah. It was a voluminous, twisted, tulle dress in a gorgeous light ocean blue which instantly made an impression on me. Since then I have followed Inbar Spector’s work via her strong presence on Facebook, which has enabled me to have peaks into her studio, see pieces in progress, and get a glimpse of her sweet personality. I also had the pleasure of seeing one of her creations in real life worn by Gabby Young – a fan of Spector’s designs – during Gabby Young and Other Animals’ Koko gig last October.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

So I was quite excited to see Inbar Spector‘s A/W 2012 collection at Fashion Scout’s venue, Freemasons’ Hall. I was certain that I was going to have my dose of the extraordinary, which I very much craved after a couple of less than thrilling London Fashion Week experiences the night before. I was not disappointed: I felt a smile forming the moment the show began. The models, beautifully styled by Hope Von Joel, walked slowly towards the photographers’ pit accompanied by a great soundtrack mixed by Todd Hart.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

There was a lot of continuity from S/S 2012. Inbar Spector displayed again her amazing skills in constructing, twisting and knotting generous amounts of silks in soft pastels on metallic faux leather laser cut bodysuits and dresses. The slightly 80s disco metallic bodysuits seemed to me to match perfectly with Todd Hart’s mix, which featured heavily electric keyboard sounds from that decade.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This 80s aura helped us escape for a few moments back to a time when we were younger – and maybe richer. The theme to Inbar Spector’s show was indeed Escapism. She quotes ‘fairytales, manga, dreams and circus clowns’ as some of her inspirations for this season. She also makes a connection between the perforated faux leather elements in her clothes – which allow a lot of skin to show through so that one does not know where the real body starts and ends – and people being ‘ruffled’, like some of her clothes, by having plastic surgery and so escaping from the reality of their bodies.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Escaping or changing one’s identity or hiding behind something were relevant themes to another star in the show: the elaborately jewelled headpieces by Lara Jensen which fell in front of the models’ faces like masks. They certainly reminded me of lavishly adorned princesses and maidens from tales of exotic places, but I could not help thinking they also had an element of S&M to them, which again created a link to escapism. I think I was aided in this thought by the constant recurrence in the soundtrack mix of the song ‘Obsession’ by the band Army of Lovers.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Again similarly to what she has done in previous shows, Inbar Spector presented her collection building an impressive crescendo by starting with less theatrical pieces, gradually sending out more and more voluminous garments, finishing off with two numbers which were so heart stopping and exciting the audience could not help but clap, cheer and whistle in keen approval. When in the end a tiny, adorable Inbar walked down the catwalk holding hands with the model who was wearing her gigantic closing number, she was drowned by it in physical terms, but her potential and creativity seemed just as gigantic – and then some.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,80s, ,Army of Colours, ,Bodysuit, ,Bride, ,Circus, ,Constructivism, ,Crinolines, ,disco, ,Escapism, ,Exotic, ,fairytales, ,Faux Leather, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabberdashery, ,gabby young, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Headpiece, ,Hope Von Joel, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Inbar Spector, ,jewellery, ,Katie Antoniou, ,Kerry Jones, ,lace, ,Lara Jensen, ,Laser Cutting, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love Amelia, ,Manga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Metalic, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Novemto Komo, ,Obsession, ,Pastel Colours, ,pastels, ,Perforated, ,Plastic Surgery, ,Reed Rainer, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Ruffles, ,S&M, ,Sadomasochism, ,Silks, ,Supermarket Sarah, ,Todd Hart, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Bournemouth

Illustrated by Katie Harvey

Rachael Browne’s take on little girl dressing opened Bournemouth’s catwalk with a collection adorned in a riotous array of colour and print. From the marble swirl tops and matching socks to the dresses adorned with animal illustrations.

It was glorious, reminding one of the joy to be had with clothes.

There appears to be no escaping the digital print this season, but Mariya Shulga showed there was still room for maneuver with her collection adorned with bricks. Design perhaps for the girl that needs to make a quick get away… The necklaces referencing the iron walls we city dwellers all too often find ourselves surrounded by.

Illustrated by Abi Daker

Is this a first? A kids collection at GFW? Anna Tiesen’s choice was a welcomed surprise with its innovative and joyful catwalk presentation.

Katie Harvey

Rather than subject the audience to children acting as models, they cartwheeled, skipped, held hands and cycled down the catwalk showcasing a rather lovely collection celebrating the joy of being a child.

Roxanne Newton’s perspex geometretic necklaces a nod to the Holly Fulton’s A/W 2010 Collection. The laser cutting evident on the skirts combined with the bold prints was fantastic, producing a rather lovely silhouette.

Lottie McLaughlin collection was inspired by time’s imposition on our lives – so beautifully caricatured by Lewis Carroll’s White Rabbit and his ticking clock, perpetually counting down time, marking the moments lost forever. The weight of time is wonderfully reinvented in this strong collection where the detris of time hangs over the shoulders of the models.

Illustrated by Abi Daker

Emily Sharp’s collection continued the graphic print trend in her fantastically striking monochrome 3 dimensional garments.

Inspired by Tchaikovsky’s Ballet: The Nutcracker’s set design to the costumes Sharp took the typically sweet image of the ballet from the tutus to the mountain of sweets and transformed it into the tight rolls of fabric that strode down the catwalk.

Emma Graham’s first collection made stark the lack of designers experimenting with found materials. A dirty dystopic selection of garments perhaps encouraged by the types of materials found by the designer. The detailing on the clothes and the juxaposition of clothes was ingenious, it was however a shame to see fur on the catwalk whether recycled or not.

Photographs by Sally Mumby-Croft

Categories ,Anna Tiesen, ,bournemouth, ,Digital Print, ,Emily Sharp, ,Emma Graham, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Laser Cutting, ,Lottie McLaughlin, ,Mariya Shulga, ,Rachel Browne, ,Roxanne Newman

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Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art MA Degree Show 2011 Review: Architecture

RCA MA degree show 2011- Tom Lasbrey Com Dem Nation
A gilded vision of Com Dem Nation by Tom Lasbrey.

I don’t know much about the architectural world, web but I do know what I like. Here’s the graduate architects that caught my eye at the RCA show.

RCA MA degree show 2011-Bethany Wells Fairground Collective
Bethany Wells considered societal problems such as the threat to higher education in her Fairground Collective project – I was amused to see my friend Mike Grenville of Transition Towns get a mention. She aims to open up the high street as a place of public dialogue, ailment action and play – making the most of underused urban spaces.

RCA MA degree show 2011-James Christian's Free [Tr]aid
James Christian‘s Free [Tr]aid looked at the consequence of a reversed imperialism where the UK’s international aid is privatised. To earn aid partner nations would have to run small territories of their own on British soil – for his purposes located somewhere between the North Circular and the Brent Reservoir! His final piece explored the ensuing cultural tensions (you bet!) Is a thin facade of socialist rhetoric enough to conceal the high capitalism lurking within? he asks. Sadly the website on his business card is not yet working.

RCA MA degree show 2011-Underdog Urbanism Bethan KayRCA MA degree show 2011-Underdog Urbanism Bethan Kay
Bethan Kay looked at the concept of Underdog Urbanism in Redbridge. How can this borough hold it’s own in the all important Global Cities Index? Buggered if I know what it means but it looked great – loved the gnomes nestled in plastic shrubbery to denote suburban pride. Follow Bethan Kay on Twitter.

RCA MA degree show 2011- Tom Lasbrey Com Dem Nation
I was immediately drawn towards Tom Lasbrey‘s golden architecture, buy created in laser cut golden glory. Con Dem Nation: The New Town Hall took as a starting point the coalition cuts in spending and asked whether resources might be better deployed into unfixed roving facilities in twinkling gold. A true flight of fancy borne out of the current situation. And soooo pretty to look at.

Categories ,architecture, ,Bethan Kay, ,Bethany Wells, ,Brent Reservoir, ,capitalism, ,Coalition, ,Con Dem Nation: The New Town Hall, ,Fairground Collective, ,Free [Tr]aid, ,Global Cities Index, ,Gnomes, ,Golden, ,International Aid, ,James Christian, ,Laser Cutting, ,Mike Grenville, ,North Circular, ,rca, ,Redbridge, ,Royal College of Art, ,Socialist, ,Tom Lasbrey, ,transition towns, ,Underdog Urbanism, ,Urban Spaces

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Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art MA Degree Show 2011 Review: Architecture

RCA MA degree show 2011- Tom Lasbrey Com Dem Nation
A gilded vision of Com Dem Nation by Tom Lasbrey.

I don’t know much about the architectural world, web but I do know what I like. Here’s the graduate architects that caught my eye at the RCA show.

RCA MA degree show 2011-Bethany Wells Fairground Collective
Bethany Wells considered societal problems such as the threat to higher education in her Fairground Collective project – I was amused to see my friend Mike Grenville of Transition Towns get a mention. She aims to open up the high street as a place of public dialogue, ailment action and play – making the most of underused urban spaces.

RCA MA degree show 2011-James Christian's Free [Tr]aid
James Christian‘s Free [Tr]aid looked at the consequence of a reversed imperialism where the UK’s international aid is privatised. To earn aid partner nations would have to run small territories of their own on British soil – for his purposes located somewhere between the North Circular and the Brent Reservoir! His final piece explored the ensuing cultural tensions (you bet!) Is a thin facade of socialist rhetoric enough to conceal the high capitalism lurking within? he asks. Sadly the website on his business card is not yet working.

RCA MA degree show 2011-Underdog Urbanism Bethan KayRCA MA degree show 2011-Underdog Urbanism Bethan Kay
Bethan Kay looked at the concept of Underdog Urbanism in Redbridge. How can this borough hold it’s own in the all important Global Cities Index? Buggered if I know what it means but it looked great – loved the gnomes nestled in plastic shrubbery to denote suburban pride. Follow Bethan Kay on Twitter.

RCA MA degree show 2011- Tom Lasbrey Com Dem Nation
I was immediately drawn towards Tom Lasbrey‘s golden architecture, buy created in laser cut golden glory. Con Dem Nation: The New Town Hall took as a starting point the coalition cuts in spending and asked whether resources might be better deployed into unfixed roving facilities in twinkling gold. A true flight of fancy borne out of the current situation. And soooo pretty to look at.

Categories ,architecture, ,Bethan Kay, ,Bethany Wells, ,Brent Reservoir, ,capitalism, ,Coalition, ,Con Dem Nation: The New Town Hall, ,Fairground Collective, ,Free [Tr]aid, ,Global Cities Index, ,Gnomes, ,Golden, ,International Aid, ,James Christian, ,Laser Cutting, ,Mike Grenville, ,North Circular, ,rca, ,Redbridge, ,Royal College of Art, ,Socialist, ,Tom Lasbrey, ,transition towns, ,Underdog Urbanism, ,Urban Spaces

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