Amelia’s Magazine | Sheena Matheiken’s The Uniform Project

Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp
Can it really be a year since the last Glastonbury? In 2009, viagra sale more about for the first time, Climate Camp was given it’s very own space in the Dragon Field just above the Craft Field as you wend your way down to Shangri La. This year we’re back to once again educate and entertain festival goers at our beautiful site only a few minutes walk from the Old Railway Line.

Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp workshop
Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp paddling pool
Glastonbury-June-2009-First Aid Kit
Workshops, at play, and First Aid Kit playing at the Climate Camp Tripod Stage in 2009.

In 2010 Climate Camp is targeting the Royal Bank of Scotland, which has been bailed out with £50 billion of public money that is now being used to finance the extraction of fossil fuels across the world, with no regard for climate change or the destruction of communities that it causes. We will be camping near the RBS global headquarters in Edinburgh, Scotland, between 19th-25th August, but in the meantime to find out more about why we decided to focus on RBS this year come along and take a look at our exhibition at Glastonbury, then pick up a copy of our Never Mind The Bankers newspaper to peruse over a cup of tea or share with friends. We will be running DIY screenprinting workshops where you can learn how to screenprint your clothing with an anti RBS slogan. Simply bring your own or print onto one of our tshirts or bags. A great activity for kids! There will also be a chance to take part in Tripod Training: Tripods are used to blockade and secure a space on a direct action protest; come find out how to put them up and climb them safely. Good fun, and no previous experience or skills required.

Glastonbury-June-2009-tripod training
Glastonbury-June-2009-tripod training
Tripod Training.

Then of course there is our fabulous music, poetry and comedy line up, put together by yours truly. Read on to find out who will be gracing our Tripod Stage…. Pyramid Stage eat your heart out, this is where the real talent is.

Green-Kite-Midnight
Green Kite Midnight.

When I wrote up about the Climate Camp presence at Glastonbury in 2009 in my blog I talked about my hope that my band Green Kite Midnight would be able to play as the Climate Camp house band in 2010, so I’m very excited to report that we will be doing daily gigs this year. Five years ago I co-founded the barndance troupe Cutashine out of a desire to make traditional collective dancing more fun: after all, what’s better than a dance where you get to meet other people and really work up a sweat?

YouTube Preview Image

With Cutashine I played at gigs all over Glastonbury for several years, then left to start Green Kite Midnight through my contacts in Climate Camp; a band that supports and plays at direct action protests. Our first gig was at the Climate Camp in Bishopsgate during the G20 in April last year, we played to 800 people at the Blackheath Climate Camp in August 2009, and more recently we went on a 10 day solidarity bike ride together to play gigs to support the struggle against the Shell gas pipeline at Rossport in Ireland. With myself as emcee (I’m a gobby shite, so turn your mind away from those boring barn dances you might have attended as a child) we can teach anyone how to barn dance, so please come and join us.

And now for the rest of our fabulous line-up:

anna log
Anna Log
My Luminaries
My Luminaries, photography by James Dean White.

On Thursday we kick off four days of renewably powered music with a fabulous folky female. Anna Log – singer with pop folk band We Aeronauts – will be doing a solo set accompanied by her trusty uke. After our first ceilidh Glastonbury Emerging Talent winners My Luminaries round the evening off with a special semi-acoustic set of their epic indie rock.

Kirsty Almeida
Kirsty Almeida
Danny and the Champions of the World
Danny and the Champions of the World

On Friday Kirsty Almeida opens for us with her bass heavy soulful Bayou blues, then we’re pleased to welcome the epic musical dreamscapes of Newislands, described as Pink Floyd meets Depeche Mode. After that it’s time for some other Climate Camp regulars, Danny Chivers, Claire Fauset and Merrick, to grace the stage with their “triple-headed tag team political poetry extravaganza”. They’re all friends of mine that I’ve seen perform before so I highly recommend their set, which will be repeated on Sunday afternoon. As a closer we have the country-tinged big band folk of Danny and the Champions of the World.

kyla la grange
Kyla la Grange
Patch William
Patch William
Dry the River
Dry the River

To kick the day off on Saturday we welcome an exclusive Glastonbury appearance from a talented newcomer with a stunning voice; Kyla La Grange creates soaring melodies and is nearing completion of her debut album. Then comes Patch William – the dreamy lovechild of Nick Drake and Jimi Hendrix, who are followed by the scuzzy rock sound of York boys The Federals, described as a cross between the White Stripes and The Beatles. Then, time for a very special guest. Following my interview with Robin Ince a few weeks he very kindly promised to come by and do us a *special secret set* which will be a must see for all comedy fans at the festival. Tell all your friends! And come on by for a very intimate set from this well known comedian. Dry the River end the day with their beautiful melodic folk, singing songs of religion, history and community to rival those of Fleet Foxes and Mumford & Sons.

Pete the Temp
Pete the Temp
Pete Lawrie
Pete Lawrie
Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.
Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.

On Sunday we’ve got another packed day to end the festival. Pete the Temp returns to wow us with his comedic eco-political music and spoken word, then we look forward to hearing the bittersweet gospel blues of latecomer Pete Lawrie, who confirmed just as our flyer had gone to print. I am particularly pleased to welcome Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly. the official moniker of singer songwriter Sam Duckworth. He will be showcasing music from his new album due for release later this year, and I’ve got a soft spot for him because he appeared in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine. Robinson will play a gypsy cajun folk set before we round off the festival with our GRAND RAFFLE. If you see our outreach team out and about please give generously to support Climate Camp and come along to our grand prize giving, which will be hosted by the inimitable Danny Chivers.

Glastonbury-June-2009-Grand Raffle presented by Danny Chivers
The Grand Raffle presented by Danny Chivers in 2009.

Don’t forget to follow myself and Climate Camp on twitter to find out how the festival is going; we can always live in hope that 3G reception will be better than it was last year! But most of all, don’t forget to come and visit us… and bring your friends along with you. I will of course write up a full report on my return. For a reminder of what to expect read my blog from last year here.

For a map and full timing information for all bands and workshops see this listings page.


Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

School’s almost out for summer. Soon blazers and ties will be ditched, adiposity with delight, cost for butterfly-bright bathers; and mortar boards tossed in glee at graduations everywhere. Uniforms may seem the antithesis of lazy, check hazy holidays and fantastic futures, but in cyberspace there’s one – albeit self-imposed – uniform showing us there’s a wealth of creativity to be found in the economical and ethical capsule wardrobe.  Will the Uniform Project please stand up!

May 1st 2010 saw the Uniform Project graduate with flying colours. An “exercise in sustainability”, in 2009, one Sheena Matheiken had pledged to wear one Little Black Dress, everyday for one year, for the Akanksha Foundation – a not-for-profit organisation educating kids in Indian slums.  Sheena and designer friend Eliza Starbuck, created a LBD which could be worn front, back, undone, for every season and all occasions. And for anyone wondering, “When did she wash the blighter?” she had seven all the same; adapting and accessorising with trinkets and treasures found on eBay, Etsy, or donated by ethical designers, like London’s own, Goodone – oh, and Sheena’s mother! 

Throughout its daily blog posts, the UP showed us how to put individual style into sustainable dress. From Day 1, “Albeit the rain and the swine”, in “classic black form”, through homage to Michael Jackson chic on Day 57, an Indian Independence Day sari ensemble, even an ‘evil sea sprite’ costume on Halloween – “Sprite seaweed and ocean foliage made entirely from UP accessory donors’ packaging material” – the UP proved there was more creativity to be had in one LBD than the whole Haus of Gaga. Well almost. 

In fact the LBD became the perfect backdrop for designers to display their wares.  Day 191 saw Sheena sporting a cape by Raffaele Ascione, “handcrafted from a satin overthrow blanket his grandmother used to own.” A Central Saint Martins student keen to raise funds to support his MA, Ascione’s designs have been donned by Lady Gaga herself, and in donating pieces to the UP he’s gained a web-wide audience eager to lap up his ethical ingenuity.  


Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With some 5,500 Twitter followers and even more Facebook fans the UP has created an on-line social network to be reckoned with. At a recent New York symposium, Sheena said some of the UP’s ideas, like LBD Fridays, where supporters, worldwide, wore their own LBD ‘uniforms’ in aid of the project, had come directly from the UP community. Philanthropy, she said, should be ‘fun’, “… it’s about engaging on an intimate level and creating awareness in a way that allows people to really be a part of the change you are instigating.” 

At the ‘end of term’ party the UP celebrated kitting out over 260 Indian children for school.  And in the true spirit of sustainable style its Head Girl, Sheena, graduated in a “ reclaimed, recycled, renovated and refashioned” LBD; signalling the future’s not just bright for the kids it has helped into education, but also for the UP itself. 

When Chanel declared the LBD  “the new uniform of modern women”, back in the 1920s, its simplicity symbolised freedom. Freedom from status anxiety and constrictive fashion – another uniform of sorts, only one we didn’t always knowingly sign up to. Perhaps because the perfect LBD is glorified as style’s holy grail the simplicity of its message is often lost amongst all-consuming fast fashion fads. But it’s this very simplicity which has made the UP so successful.  Thus the Uniform Project has proved to be a much needed less-on to us all, to “Aspire. Achieve. Be the change.” (Akanksha Foundation motto).  

Categories ,1920s, ,Akanksha Foundation, ,Central Saint Martins, ,chanel, ,ebay, ,Eliza Starbuck, ,etsy, ,Facebook, ,goodone, ,Hallowe’en, ,Helen Davis, ,India, ,Lady Gaga, ,LBD, ,Little Black Dress, ,london, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Michael Jackson, ,new york, ,Philanthropy, ,Raffaele Ascione, ,Sheena Mathelken, ,sustainability, ,Sustainable Style, ,The Uniform Project, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Supermarket Sarah at Selfridges

Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft has put together a stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI. With music provided by the wondrous 6 Day Riot, find capsule I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, buy as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, check cakes by Lily Vanilli, sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 Bethnal Green heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…


Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft has put together a stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI. With music provided by the wondrous 6 Day Riot, treatment I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, about it as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, pills cakes by Lily Vanilli, sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 Bethnal Green heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…


Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft has together this stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI, doctor with a little help from 6 Day Riot. I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, link as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, information pills cakes by Lily Vanilli, sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…

Amelia’s Magazine hearts Sally big time. She’s incredibly talented, knowledgeable and she cares about the world around us.
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft has together this stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI, order with a little help from 6 Day Riot. I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, cialis 40mg as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, cakes by Lily Vanilli, sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…

There’s a reason why I heart Sally big time. She’s incredibly talented, knowledgeable and she cares about the world around us. You can follow Sally on twitter here, and keep up with her on her Vimeo channel here.
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft put together this stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI, sildenafil with a little help from 6 Day Riot. I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, buy as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, cakes by Lily Vanilli, sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…

There’s a reason why I heart Sally big time. She’s incredibly talented, knowledgeable and she cares about the world around us. You can follow Sally on twitter here, and keep up with her on her Vimeo channel here.
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft put together this stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI with a little help from 6 Day Riot. I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, seek as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, case cakes by Lily Vanilli, health sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…

There’s a reason why I heart Sally big time. She’s incredibly talented, knowledgeable and she cares about the world around us. You can follow Sally on twitter here, and keep up with her on her Vimeo channel here.
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law
Sally Mumby-Croft at the ACOFI launch with Jonno and Matt. Illustration by Naomi Law.

Former Amelia’s Magazine art editor Sally Mumby-Croft put together this stunning movie reminder of the launch party for ACOFI with a little help from 6 Day Riot. I hope you enjoy a tour of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, approved as seen at the Bunker Cafe and Scout Hut at 123 Bethnal Green Road on Friday 28th January 2011. It features Susie Bubble, cakes by Lily Vanilli, sneak peaks inside the book and lots of sketching by the illustrators who helped out on the day.

YouTube Preview Image

I asked Sally a few questions about how she put the movie together:

What where you looking for when you filmed this?
When filming I’m often looking for the quiet moments in between moments of action, whether this be an illustrator lost in concentration, the movement of a pen, the simple action of making tea or a DJ pressing play. I wanted to capture the moments which were unique to an Amelia’s Magazine book launch.

What was your favourite moment of the party?
Apart from assisting Amelia and Matt Bramford with the set up in the morning and watching 123 heave under the number of guests who turned up for the book launch, my favourite moment of the party was when Amelia and Harriet (of Tatty Devine) cut the fantastic cake made by Lily Vanilli and we had a chance to taste the prettiest cake I’ve ever seen!

Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.
Sally Mumby-Croft. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Who else have you made short videos for?
Recently I’ve been really lucky to work with the photographer and filmmaker Ben Toms, over the past three months I’ve worked on videos for JW Anderson, Edun and Craig Lawrence.



Outside of fashion film, I’ve worked with the fantastic team behind the upcoming documentary Just Do It: get off your arse and change the world and assisted on the editing of their Grow Heathrow short:

YouTube Preview Image

What else are you working on at the moment?
At the moment I am considering the possibility of revisiting interviews conducted with Xavier Zapata – with Hackney Residents who had been displaced by the Olympic Development in Stratford for my Goldsmiths degree show piece Edgeland: or possibly starting on a brand new short…

There’s a reason why I heart Sally big time. She’s incredibly talented, knowledgeable and she cares about the world around us. You can follow Sally on twitter here, and keep up with her on her Vimeo channel here.

Gabby Young at Selfridges, no rx illustrated by Sam Parr

The ‘Supermarket Sarah’ pop-up shop opened last month in Selfridges stationery department, here I attended Friday’s opening night to check it out. Press, visit web designers and shoppers celebrated the opening with Campari cocktails whilst enjoying an energetic acoustic set from Gabby Young.

Back in December 2009 I visited Poke Design Studios at The Biscuit Factory for Supermarket Sarah’s Christmas Extravaganza, on behalf of Amelia’s. A year on and Sarah has had wide press coverage, and has celebrity followers such as; Lily Allen, Lindsay Lohan, Tinie Tempah and La Roux. ‘Supermarket’ Sarah Bagner seems, however, unphased by all the attention and continues to do what she does best; sourcing an eclectic mix of quirky vintage finds and indie crafts, and displaying her discoveries in an inspiring and creative way. Starting out in her home in Portobello, Sarah would beautifully arrange her own walls with items to buy and serve customers tea and cakes. The launch of her website expanded her work outside of her living room and has allowed her to exhibit in a variety of locations. Using the website, customers can browse through the items displayed on real walls as part of styled stories.


Illustration by Madi Illustrates

The retro-inspired Selfridges store layout holds shelves of vintage china trinkets, playful plastic jewellery and quirky gifts and accessories, all organized into the walls four sections; Super Stuff, New Designers, Vintage and Gallery where Sarah presents a designer she admires. Currently the Gallery space presents the work of Eley Kishimoto. The collection of printed accessories include; iPhone covers, textiles, limited edition screen printed books, and even a skateboard.

Sarah’s hand-picked selection of designers are given the opportunity to have items displayed in the Supermarket-style ‘gallery’. Carefully thought out curation and styling mean each piece compliments each other, contributing to the personal nature of the ‘Supermarket Sarah’ shopping experience. It was great to see the interactivity at play between customer and product; this interactivity is also achieved on the Supermarket Sarah online platform.


Illustration by Danni Bradford

My favourite pieces included; cross stitch badges from Ma Magasin, Mell Elliot’s Lady Gaga paper doll and Strawberry Creme Nouveau‘s rubber moulded biscuit brooches. John Booth’s eccentric bag charms, Nick White fake tattoos, Katy Leigh‘s painted egg cups, and YCN‘s ‘Light up your mood’ light switch stickers, all also deserve a mention. And other great designers involved include Tatty Devine, Patternity, Donna Wilson, Lynn Hatzius, Swedish Blonde Design and Rina Donnersmarck.


All photographs by Ester Kneen

Bringing a sense of Portobello Market to London’s central shopping location. ‘Supermarket Sarah’ at Selfridges gives tourists a sense of what the London vintage and craft scene is all about. Congratulations to all involved!

Categories ,Campari, ,Danni Bradford, ,Donna Wilson, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,Fake Tattoos, ,gabby young, ,John booth, ,Katy Leigh, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lynn Hatzius, ,Ma Magasin, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Mel Elliot, ,Nick White, ,Patternity, ,Portobello, ,Rina Donnersmarck, ,Sam Parr, ,Sarah Bagner, ,Selfridges, ,shopping, ,Strawberry Creme Nouveau, ,Supermarket Sarah, ,Swedish Blonde Design, ,Tatty Devine, ,vintage, ,YCN

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Oversized and Bulbous

Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Lesley Barnes
Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Lesley Barnes.

There was a lot of bold egg like shapes going on at the Golden Thread awards. Bulbous shoulders, cost plump skirts, rotund headpieces, you name it. Some of it worked, some of it didn’t. A word to the braver fashion designers of the world: make sure that your idea looks good on a moving model. It’s kind of important when it comes to clothing.

Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Alia Gargum
Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Alia Gargum.

Dominika Piekutowska Swed
Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
I really liked Dominika Piekutowska Swed‘s minimal collection of carefully constructed creamy shapes that called to mind the delicate design of butterfly wings, insect scales and coral, all put together with a dash of silver leather. Very wearable in many ways but with a strong innovative edge. I’ll be very interested to watch her career progress.

Renata ‘Miyabi’ Molik
Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Renata ‘Miyabi’ Molik obviously aspires to dress dear Lady Gaga. With their hands planted firmly on their hips the models paraded a series of sculptural bodies in metallic finishes with strange jutting padded scissor handles for shoulders. Fun for editorial.

Igor Galas AW 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Igor Galas AW 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Igor Galas
Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Croatian designer Igor Galas showed a predominantly brown and oatmeal collection that featured some truly frightening menswear (more burly male models with hairy thighs in hotpants. gah). For women there were some successful puffy tulip shaped knitwear garments, but in what looked like cotton they didn’t work so well – ideas that may have looked good on a drawing board were rendered far less flattering on the catwalk.

Laura Holeczek
Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Laura Holeczek is probably best glossed over as quickly as possible: this fashion nightmare was set to Bollywood music and featured a total mishmash of traditional styles plucked with random from across the world. Men and women wore harem pants, clogs and headwear inspired by Morocco and, erm, Holland. This was pantomime costume not fashion; there was potential buried in there somewhere but it needed so much more development.

Martyna Idzikowska
Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Martyna Idzikowska sent out a great collection that featured huge egg shaped layered dresses accessorised with blood red encasing neck braces and red slashed under layers. But again, a major quibble with the way the fabric moved when the models walked. Strange lumps and bumps appeared where on a mannequin all must have looked fabulously shaped. A problem to be overcome for the next collection?

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Bollywood, ,Croatian, ,Dominika Piekutowska Swed, ,Egg, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,holland, ,Igor Galas, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lady Gaga, ,Laura Holeczek, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lodz, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Morocco, ,Renata ‘Miyabi’ Molik, ,Sculptural, ,The Golden Thread, ,Złota Nitka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Roland Mouret in conversation with Colin McDowell at Selfridges

Roland Mouret by Yasmeen Ismail
Roland Mouret by Yasmeen Ismail.

I’m sure I don’t need to tell you what a hellish place Oxford Street is when you’re in a rush. Last Thursday, viagra having legged it home from work to change (what, click did you think I was going turn up in front of not one, but two living fashion legends in my standard office attire?) I had to dash out of Bond Street tube station, dodge hordes of dawdling tourists and run up three escalators to find I’d missed the first five minutes of the event. I was at Selfridges to watch fashion journalist Colin McDowell interviewing designer Roland Mouret in front of an audience of about 50 people. I needn’t have worried about my tardiness though. The next forty-five minutes were a fashion writer’s dream come true – Mouret’s wonderfully Gallic way with words elicited more truisms, maxims and aphorisms than a whole fashion week’s worth of backstage interviews. And, of course, a few clichés too, but I won’t begrudge him that.

Scarlett Johansson in Roland Mouret By Melissa Kime
Scarlett Johansson in Roland Mouret by Melissa Kime.

Straight off the bat, French-born Mouret reminisced dreamily about how the first shop he worked in was ‘like a window to the rest of the world,’ because it allowed him to observe people and what they wore close up. This was not some glamorous Parisian boutique, though; it was his parent’s butchers shop. Which prompted McDowell to ask what Mouret thought of dress made of meat that Lady Gaga wore to the 2010 MTV Music Video Awards. According to Mouret, Gaga is an artist whose genius borders on madness – ‘maybe it’s because inside she is as raw as the meat she was wearing’ he deadpanned – and he doesn’t envy that level of fame: ‘I’m really lucky that my dresses are more famous than me.’ But Mouret isn’t precious about how his customer chooses to dress, nor does the designer long for a return to the time of formality when gloves, hats and matching shoes were de rigueur for women. ‘It’s so easy to find the past quite charming and quite romantic but I find life more interesting now. I love to see what women want to buy from me and mix with other designers’

Roland Mouret's Galaxy Dress by Lou Taylor
Roland Mouret’s Galaxy Dress by Lou Taylor.

Roland Mouret started his design career late in life by today’s standards. ‘I was 36 and I said to myself, if at 40 I’m not making clothes I’m going to be a bitter bastard.’ Now a full-time London resident, he first came to England in the eighties and co-owned a nightclub for a time. Attracted by the counter-culture of Soho, he saw London as the ‘other side of the mirror’ to tasteful, Chanel-worshiping France. With no formal fashion design training, Mouret funded his own first ‘demi-couture’ collection, his definition of that being ‘when someone who doesn’t know how to make clothes tries to make some clothes and pretend they are couture.’ £2000 paid for all the fabric, production and the final show, but he had to cut corners at times, for instance using his own bed sheets to cut patterns until a friend told him that he should be using calico. ‘That winter I was producing the clothes myself on a manual sewing machine. The needle went through my finger so many times and I was bleeding on the clothes and I thought ‘it’s so conceptual, my DNA is on the clothes!’’

Scarlett Johansson Rouland Mouret Dress by Claire Kearns
Scarlett Johansson in a Rouland Mouret Dress by Claire Kearns.

Mouret concentrated on dresses simply because he didn’t know how construct anything more complicated. ‘I used hatpins instead of safety pins, but the first time someone wore [one of my dresses] when she came out of the car she had her arse to the public. So I had to learn how to make a zip.’

Seven years later it was those early dresses that inspired the watershed moment in Roland Mouret’s career, bringing him international fame and credibility. ‘I said to my team, I want to go back to the first dress, the dress that I never finished. And I had just met two women in my life, and I realised that I didn’t have anything for them in my collection.’ Those two women happened to be Dita von Teese and Scarlett Johansson. So, in 2005, the tight, sexy, cinch-waisted Galaxy Dress was born. Adopted as red carpet uniform by A-listers on both sides of the Atlantic, a million high street copies were spawned and the dress gained modern classic status almost instantly. The genius of the Galaxy was that it showed off an hourglass figure perfectly, but also gave the illusion of an hourglass shape on even someone as skinny as Victoria Beckham, who became a close friend of Mouret’s.

roland_mouret_dita_von_tease_soni_speight
Dita von Teese in Roland Mouret by Soni Speight.

That friendship proved to be instrumental in Mouret’s career. Amidst all the success and adulation Mouret split from his business partner, came close to bankruptcy and lost the right to sell his designs under the Roland Mouret moniker. It was at that point that Beckham introduced the designer to former Spice Girls manager Simon Fuller, who became Mouret’s new business partner. In 2010 they bought back the Roland Mouret name, a feat few designers in the same situation have managed.

GALAXY & DNA DRESS BY CHRIS RODWELL
The Galaxy dress by Chris Rodwell.

The Roland Mouret brand is still growing. A stand-alone shop at 8 Carlos Place in Mayfair opened in January this year and his first menswear collection launches for spring 2012. The latter came about when Mouret realised that at 46-years-old ‘there was nothing was on the market for me.’ Does his design philosophy differ for menswear? The importance of men and women dressing for each other is not lost on Mouret, but it’s the motivation that differs with mens clothing. ‘Men would love to undress the woman I dress and women would like to borrow an outfit from the man I dress,’ he told McDowell. Either way, Mouret loves to see his designs translated into real life. ‘With my new space in London, when [customers] come and try an outfit it’s so fantastic for me to be a part of their life through that outfit.’

London has served the designer well, and created that rare thing, a Frenchman who recognizes that the French have a tendency towards arrogance: ‘I still argue with people when I go back to France and they think they’re the best.’ I came away from the interview liking Roland Mouret, and not just because he’s a veritable sound bite machine. He’s got a blend of self-awareness and measured self-confidence that’s quite unique in the ego-driven fashion industry. If you ask me, he deserves nothing but credit for the hard work and raw talent that has taken him from the butcher’s shop to the stars.

Categories ,8 Carlos Place, ,Chris Rodwell, ,Claire Kearns, ,Colin McDowell, ,Demi-Couture, ,Dita Von Teese, ,Dress made of meat, ,french, ,Galaxy Dress, ,Ickleson, ,Lady Gaga, ,london, ,Lou Taylor, ,Mayfair, ,Meat Dress, ,Melissa Kime, ,MTV Music Video Awards, ,paris, ,Roland Mouret, ,Scarlett Johansson, ,Selfridges, ,Simon Fuller, ,Soni Speight, ,Victoria Beckham, ,Yasmeen Ismail

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pre-LFW interview: Orschel-Read

LFW_CharlieLeMindu_01

Who cares if womenswear is wearable? As a gent, recipe generic I certainly don’t. Hair stylist to the stars, more about buy more about Charlie Le Mindu opened the On|Off shows yesterday – winning zero points for wearability, viagra buy but a whopping 10 out of 10 for wow factor.

Charlie has been styling hair for shoots and shows for ages now, but his first catwalk show, as part of Blow Presents, was only last year. In the six months between then and now, he’s had time to polish his wares, and this time we had an even deeper delve into his psyche…

LFW_CharlieLeMindu_Illustration
Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With the sound of church bells welcoming a funeral cortege, the first model appeared with a giant, jewel-encrusted cross atop her sleek black wig. Wearing a most provocative outfit made of lace, Le Mindu’s pieces lie somewhere between your wildest dreams and your darkest nightmares.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_02

As the pounding music kicked in, with screams of ‘CHARLIE” peppered in the track, the stream of models slowly sauntered down the catwalk, expressionless and lost in their own thoughts. The outfits became racier – with one model, wearing a huge hair-trimmed construction, having little but a thick pony tail to hide her modesty.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_03

While Charlie’s SS 2010 show was all about the blonde, AW 2010 was definitely all about black. Black, black black. Black lace, black hair, black shoes and black knickers. Any use of colour would have ruined the drama of fashion’s favourite colour.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_04

The most prominent theme was undoubtedly death, with crucifixes, ashen skin and hair/head pieces influenced by the mantilla. Whilst some might find Le Mindu’s creations a little on the silly side, the craftsmanship, attention to detail and range of techniques he employs are outstanding. He’s comparable to the few designers who really push the boundaries, and, like dearly beloved McQueen, he toys with raw and emotive subjects. And when it’s not hair, it’s stoles with cuddly-toy heads or bird feathers.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_05

Amongst a hell of a lot of designers who’ve taken to playing it safe in these turbulent financial times, thank GOD for Charlie Le Mindu.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_06

LFW_CharlieLeMindu_01

Who cares if womenswear is wearable? As a gent, shop I certainly don’t. Hair stylist to the stars, price Charlie Le Mindu opened the On|Off shows yesterday – winning zero points for wearability, but a whopping 10 out of 10 for wow factor.

Charlie has been styling hair for shoots and shows for ages now, but his first catwalk show, as part of Blow Presents, was only last year. In the six months between then and now, he’s had time to polish his wares, and this time we had an even deeper delve into his psyche…

LFW_CharlieLeMindu_Illustration
Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With the sound of church bells welcoming a funeral cortege, the first model appeared with a giant, jewel-encrusted cross atop her sleek black wig. Wearing a most provocative outfit made of lace, Le Mindu’s pieces lie somewhere between your wildest dreams and your darkest nightmares.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_02

As the pounding music kicked in, with screams of ‘CHARLIE” peppered in the track, the stream of models slowly sauntered down the catwalk, expressionless and lost in their own thoughts. The outfits became racier – with one model, wearing a huge hair-trimmed construction, having little but a thick pony tail to hide her modesty.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_03

While Charlie’s SS 2010 show was all about the blonde, AW 2010 was definitely all about black. Black, black black. Black lace, black hair, black shoes and black knickers. Any use of colour would have ruined the drama of fashion’s favourite colour.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_04

The most prominent theme was undoubtedly death, with crucifixes, ashen skin and hair/head pieces influenced by the mantilla. Whilst some might find Le Mindu’s creations a little on the silly side, the craftsmanship, attention to detail and range of techniques he employs are outstanding. He’s comparable to the few designers who really push the boundaries, and, like dearly beloved McQueen, he toys with raw and emotive subjects. And when it’s not hair, it’s stoles with cuddly-toy heads or bird feathers.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_05

Amongst a hell of a lot of designers who’ve taken to playing it safe in these turbulent financial times, thank GOD for Charlie Le Mindu.

LFW_CharlieleMindu_06

What was it like collaborating with Pavel Rudanovsky on the conceptual ‘UnFashion Show’ series?
‘UnFashion’ was a great platform to test out ideas of what can be presented under the umbrella of a ‘fashion show’. We integrated contemporary dance and ballet, here alongside experimental live music and three dimensional interactive sets, here into a fashion show with a narrative. It helped me work out the balance between the need for spectacle in a show and the need to exhibit a garment design in manner where it can be clearly understood.

01 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul MorganImagery throughout depicting Orschel-Read SS10, buy photographed by Paul Morgan

Did you always know that you wanted to design couture for men or is this something you realised upon studying at Central Saint Martins?
I launched my ready-to-wear label at London Fashion Week in September 2009. I showed it alongside the bespoke collection. I knew I wanted to design for men long before I studied at Central Saint Martins, but it was while I was there that I pursued the concept of couture for men. We are at an exciting time in menswear where couture for men is once again relevant; it is no longer solely for kings and emperors, it is for you and I.

09 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

How did you break into the fashion industry, and do you have any advice for our readers on things they can do to stand out in the industry?
Starting up a label is a very large gamble especially in the current economic climate. It is important to understand that the financial and time commitments will far exceed what you initially estimate! I strongly suggest that if starting your own label is something you aim to do, that you seek a few internships with new generation labels. It is in these situations where you can understand all the processes that you will need to undertake yourself when starting your own brand.

14 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

You’ve recently had a couple of designs worn by Lady Gaga, who showed that your designs can be worn and adapted into a woman’s wardrobe. Are you happy for women to wear your clothing, and what was it like working with Lady Gaga?
I see no divide between man and woman. We have differences but far more similarities. Therefore of course I was pleased that Lady Gaga chose to wear my menswear.

15 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

Is there any one man that you would love to see wearing your designs, who you feel sums up your ethos as a designer?
I would have loved to have dressed the late Henry Cyril Paget, 5th Marquis of Anglesey. Known to his friends as ‘Toppy’, he looked like an Aubrey Beardsley illustration. Beyond eccentric, he had his car modified to spray perfume from its exhaust, walked with a poodle bedecked with pink bows under his arm and hired an entire theatre company with whom he performed almost nightly to entertain his servants and the locals of Bangor. What I admire lies beneath his seemingly frivolous bejewelled exterior. He was a true social agitator and living artwork. He forced people to reconsider preconceived notions of what was acceptable in a male. He could not simply be categorised as a mere eccentric and therefore socially tolerable within a walled-off heterotopia. He was an avant-garde, who like Marchesa Luisa Casati, Quentin Crisp and David Bowie, irreversibly reshaped the opinions of the panoptic mainstream.

18 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

What is your inspiration for FW10, and what can we expect from your upcoming LFW fashion show/presentation?
The foundations of this collection come from the ceiling mural of Stockholm’s Storkyrkan cathedral and the subtle beauty of female birds, with William Morris inspired prints. This season I am focusing on balancing tailoring with a classic sportswear feel, in earthy tweeds, digitally printed leathers, knit and fine tailoring wools. As always it is designed and produced in-house in London.

27 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

How do you unwind after the stresses of LFW?
Last season I took a break and enjoyed some quiet time at home. Mistake! I hated the anticlimax. So this year I will seek distraction and go on holiday.

28 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

What has been your career’s biggest highlight to date?Every time I produce a bespoke garment that supersedes the client’s expectations I experience the greatest contentment and reward available within my career choice.

30 Orschel-Read SS10 photographer Paul Morgan

Is there anything in particular that you are looking forward to accomplishing this decade?
I look forward to being part of a grand revolution within menswear that has already begun. My show on the 24th of February with Vauxhall Fashion Scout is my next explorative submission towards this.

Categories ,’UnFashion Show’, ,5th Marquis of Anglesey, ,Aubrey Beardsley, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cyril Paget, ,David Bowie, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marchesa Luisa Casati, ,Orschel-Read, ,Pavel Rudanovsky, ,Quentin Crisp, ,Stockholm’s Storkyrkan cathedral, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,William Morris

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pre-London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Interview: Charlie le Mindu


Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, purchase illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religion-inspired collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crucifixes atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one fashion week’s attendees wait for with immense anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,A/W 2011, ,Anna Trevelayn, ,Blow PR, ,Carolina Bambina, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Cher, ,Crucifix, ,Drew Barrymore, ,Florence Welsh, ,Hair, ,interview, ,Kap Bambino, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Law, ,Peaches, ,Plastic Surgery, ,preview, ,religion, ,S/S 2009, ,SEX, ,Steph Parr, ,Uffie

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pre-London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Interview: Charlie le Mindu


Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, purchase illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religion-inspired collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crucifixes atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one fashion week’s attendees wait for with immense anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,A/W 2011, ,Anna Trevelayn, ,Blow PR, ,Carolina Bambina, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Cher, ,Crucifix, ,Drew Barrymore, ,Florence Welsh, ,Hair, ,interview, ,Kap Bambino, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Law, ,Peaches, ,Plastic Surgery, ,preview, ,religion, ,S/S 2009, ,SEX, ,Steph Parr, ,Uffie

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Presentation: Ashley Isham (reprise)

On any average, dosage abortion non LFW weekend, unhealthy you might find me at one of London’s plethora of craft fairs, order vintage markets or fetes, and what I’m always really impressed by is how wonderfully sellers exhibit their wares. Running a handmade products company myself, I know how testing it can be lugging a dollshouse across town in order to sell handmade stationery from its little rooms;but I’m always convinced its worth it when buyers comment on how much they like the stall set up. So I was surprised and decidedly disappointed to see that many of the exhibitors in Somerset House made little effort to do more than lay their good out on a table. When buyers and journos are looking at tens of jewellery sellers in one location on one day, they really need to do everything they can to make their stall stand out. As creative, inventive individuals, you’d imagine they’d jump at the chance to decorate their own little space, but many simply hung their clothes or spread their pieces out on a surface. So I’m dedicating this post to those who really made an effort, creating settings that reflected their work and really caught my eye. Presentation is no less important on a stall than it is on a catwalk!

Bark jewellery had a traditional British feel,designed by Miwako Yoshioka ; incorporating vintage sheet music and old mannequins in her display.

Comfort Station also excelled themselves with their delicate necklaces exhibited on antique books assembled on the wall.

Jacey Withers’ collection channeled a sort of nautical highway woman; using treasure boxes and other props to present necklaces bearing intricate pirate’s chests, stingrays, shells and rifles.

In the Hedonism room curated by Stephen Jones, hats like Mister Smith’s were beautiful, but none so elaborately displayed ad Piers Atkinson’s hat ‘garden’ with wonderful floral headpieces, novelty fascinators and some less ostentatious veiled hats with beautiful embroidery.
LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
Ashley Isham’s amazing headdresses, illness by Hayley Warnham.

I’m never really sure how to take Ashley Isham. On the one hand some of his dresses are quite fabulous, shop he seems to attract quite a cool crowd and has a pretty good rep… on the other hand some of his dresses are frankly tacky.

LFW_Paloma Faith Noisettes stephanie Parr
Paloma Faith and the singer from the Noisettes by Stephanie Parr.

It’s almost as if he’s cornered the market in awards ceremony frocks for the slightly oddball celebrity: outre, but not too out of place on the red carpet. Hence, I guess, the front row presence of the kooky Paloma Faith and that girl whose name I can never remember from the Noisettes.

LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
Ashley Isham by Hayley Warnham.

I’ve only skim read Matt’s blog so that I don’t get swayed by his opinions of the show, but it was enough to note that his photos are way better than mine are: it’s interesting, if you’re taking photos from the audience so much of it is down to pot luck. And this time – despite my seat very close to the pop darlings – I was in quite a shite position for good photos: changing light levels meant I had to change my ISO setting manually as they walked. Not easy I can tell you. And not that I’m making excuses you understand. Still, if you want to see some superb pics I suggest you scurry over to Matt’s blog. They are really quite wonderful. But mine do give ample cause to marvel at the wonderful cut paper surround to the catwalk entrance.

Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

There was lots of sheeny satin fabrics, frothy feathers and splashy coloured prints, all accessorised with what I can only describe as some really rather marvellous Hawaiian Geisha headpieces. After the show I espied stylist Tamara Cincik peeking out from backstage. I can only presume these were her doing, and very fabulous too. Now what I’d like to see is someone stride down the red carpet in a posh frock… and one of these hectic hair adornments. Then maybe they’d give that Lady Gaga a run for her money.

Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,Geisha, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Lady Gaga, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,onoff, ,paloma faith, ,Stephanie Parr, ,Tamara Cincik, ,the Noisettes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Falguni & Shane Peacock

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, order dosage but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that even with the more conservative crowd clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, prostate and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.
Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, patient but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that even with the more conservative crowd clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, more about and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, cialis 40mg all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, there but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that even with the more conservative crowd clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, find but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in, web even with the more conservative crowd. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Falguni & Shane Peacock by Abigail Daker
Falguni & Shane Peacock by Abigail Daker.

Last year I took a fairly disparaging view of Falguni & Shane Peacock‘s inaugural show at London Fashion Week. But I got invited back, website so it can’t have been all bad. I came with an open mind: would it be better than last time?

LFW.FALGUNI AND SHANE.HAYLEY WARNHAM
Illustration by Hayley Warnham.

Well… yes and no. Once again they made high claims in their literature, this time about saving the tigers and the bees… or perhaps this was just an excuse to make loose links between trendy causes (this being the year of the tiger) and dress designs that looked remarkably similar to last seasons. We even got some WWF stickers in our goodie bag and I have to say the shock slogan “3200 and falling” makes me genuinely concerned… but what exactly am I supposed to do? Donate money? Volunteer at a sanctuary? It’s not like I go out and shoot the beasts for sport.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Falguni-BY-Kellie-Black
Illustration by Kellie Black.

But back to the frocks: there was a glamourous lady sporting a Falguni & Shane Peacock dress with Jimmy Choo in the front row, sildenafil apparently also a fan. I sat opposite, next to the lady with the home made hats and the revolting fingernails, which I hadn’t noticed till I sat next to her. She’s always very sweet and smiley but I really haven’t grasped exactly what she does, other than have an atrocious sense of fashion.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
This, my friends, is just not right.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Falguni-BY-Kellie-Black
Illustration by Kellie Black.

The dresses were pretty much the same as last season: a mish mash of tight fitting bodycon styles and flowing diva-esque numbers, plumped up with hip sculpturing in a nod to current trends. The sunglasses styling was pretty darn atrocious. The only outfits which really showed promise were those that appeared at the end: a series of digitally printed bodies encrusted with gems and worn underneath harness like straps and studded shoulder pads. Though clearly Gaga inspired they were at least an attempt to offer something a cut above the standard red carpet affair.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Hayley Warnham Falguni shane peacock
Illustration by Hayley Warnham.

You’ve got to hand it to Falguni & Shane Peacock though: they seem to be serious about LFW and for that I give them credit – it’s not easy to stand out in the melee of the Indian fashion scene and they are doing their damnedest to make sure they are. Now, what to do about those tigers and bees…

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Abigail Daker, ,Bees, ,Falguni & Shane Peacock, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Jimmy Choo, ,Kellie Black, ,Lady Gaga, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,On/Off. Victoria House, ,Tigers, ,WWF

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Exhibition Review: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Bolshie-A-W-2010-Amelias-Magazine-Antonia-Parker-A
Bolshie AKA Baby-Leg Girl, seek abortion by Antonia Parker.

Over at Fashion Scout there is yet another array of amazing new designers to trawl through. As I entered the upstairs room at the Freemasons’ Hall I was greeted by a girl with plastic roast chickens attached to her breasts and fanny. Perfect for Lady Gaga.

Fashion Scout LFW SS2011-Bolshie photo By Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Bolshie
Those chickens, approved that spike-encrusted big-shouldered body suit, the top knot, the headless doll on a chain: something was ringing a very big bell. And it wasn’t the giant gold glittery Big Ben headpiece in the corner. I turned around and went “oh, it’s you!”

Fashion Scout LFW SS2011-Bolshie photo By Amelia Gregory

For it was none other than Baby-Leg Girl. Bolshie is 18 year old Rhiannon Jones, thrown out of her East Yorkshire school at the tender age of 15 years old and now residing in fashion centrale, Shoreditch.

Bolshie-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker-Amelias-Magazine-A
Bolshie by Antonia Parker.

We noticed her everywhere last season, usually to be found obscuring our view with giant shoulders and hair – little did we realise that this daring and very ambitious fashionista has got her very own label a spot at Fashion Scout. She’s even made it onto the local BBC news. Now there’s two fingers up at her old school eh?

Fashion Scout LFW SS2011-Bolshie photo By Amelia Gregory

The collection is a massive mashup of contemporary culture, full of passionate bravado. Think Mickey Mouse ears on a police helmet, guns, watch-encrusted glittery jackets, a print that appears to feature Coca-Cola baby bottles and of course the odd Baby-Leg adornment. I wonder if she ever reads Super Super? You can see her entire collection here. Keep a beady eye on this one. She’s still only a teenager for gawd’s sake.

Fashion Scout LFW SS2011-Bolshie photo By Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout LFW SS2011-Bolshie photo By Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout LFW SS2011-Bolshie photo By Amelia Gregory

James Hock
This is the third season for the ex-accountant from Australia. But that’s about all I know about James Hock, since his website is ridiculously economical with any biographical information. The Unloved is a bold and playful collection of entirely black and red garments, based on an emotional journey. “It is sadness with a flickering of hope but ultimately, it is about the acceptance of fate.” So says the press release. Sheer fabrics are adorned with Swarovski crystals and juxtaposed against huge asymmetrical harlequin shapes cut across pantaloons, mini crinolines, sharp-shouldered capes and hybrid trouser-shorts. Audacious and definitely not for the faint hearted, he is currently stocked in uber trendy shop Machine-A.

James-Hock-by-Lisa-Stannard
James-Hock-by-Lisa-Stannard
James-Hock-by-Lisa-Stannard
James Hock by Lisa Stannard.

Kirsty Ward
Kirsty Ward graduated from Central Saint Martins MA in 2008 since when she has been working with Alberta Ferretti in Italy. S/S 2011 saw the launch of her own label at Fashion Scout but I remember well how astonished I was by her jewellery for David Longshaw last season. Her own collection features amazing sculptural creations that echo the lines of the body in sheer pastel panels shaped with exaggerated wire and piping. Many pieces have integral jewellery or are meant to be worn with her huge wire and crystal bead necklaces in shades of pale peach and mint green.

Fashion Scout Kirsty Ward photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Kirsty Ward photo by Amelia Gregory

She was wearing an earring necklace when I met her: dangling earrings that connect under the chin. I’d personally be incredibly worried about pulling my earlobes off if I wore this creation, but she rocked the look with admirable confidence. I think a bit of upcycling could definitely fit into her aesthetic and I did nonchalantly suggest that she could use some old wire coat hangers… Definitely a new designer to keep a firm eye on.

felice perkins kirsty ward
felice perkins kirsty ward
felice perkins kirsty ward
Kirsty Ward by Felice Perkins.

Yong
Special mention goes to Yong, who studied at Edinburgh College of Art and Design before passing through the hallowed years of an MA at Central Saint Martins. He makes clever and elegant dresses, advised by my old friend Jason Leung.

Fashion Scout LFW SS2011- Jason Leung photo By Amelia Gregory
Jason Leung.

I particularly liked the royal blue dress with amazing white ruffled embroidery, but I think I need to see more of these dresses worn to really appreciate them. In fact I’d like to see all of these designers on the catwalk. Here’s hoping…

Fashion Scout LFW SS2011- Jason Leung photo By Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Antonia Parker, ,Baby-leg girl, ,Bolshie, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Felice Perkins, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,James Hock, ,Jason Leung, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lisa Stannard, ,Machine-A, ,Rhiannon Jones, ,Super Super, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Yong

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