Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011

As with all the shows at Fashion Week Poland, price The Golden Thread Awards show began with a booming announcement somewhat akin to the call to board an interstellar spacecraft: Please take your seats now, information pills the mission to Mars is about to commence. That or a catwalk show.

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 streetstyle

Fashion Week Poland was not hot on front row goodie bags… but The Golden Thread did as good as it said on the tin: waiting on our seats were small plastic bags of sewing thread, viagra sale handy for all those crafty projects. The Golden Thread, otherwise known in Polish as Z?ota Nitka, is responsible for launching the most talented fashion design graduates into the public realm – it counts amongst its winners the well known design duo Paprocki & Brzozowski.

Golden Thread Award Fashion Week Poland AW 2011

French fashion celebrity Marcellous staged a fabulous late entrance in a fuchsia pink suit and purple ostrich brogues, carrying aloft his angel-winged Jack Russell Phaedra. Phaedra is herself a celebrity and had her very own doggy fashion week pass. Marcellous was trailed by a camera crew who obscured our view somewhat as the local dignitaries all rose for a bow, which I found most amusing.

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 Marcellous and Phaedra
Marcellous & Phaedra dressed down on another day.

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 Phaedra Amelia
Phaedra, the best behaved dog ever, on my lap.

Also on our seats was what looked curiously like a posh wine list – a line up of the competing entries for The Golden Thread award in black and jewelled red: I’d like a glass of Anya with my catwalk please.

Golden Thread Award Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Marcellous

After a series of mainly Polish announcements the lengthy catwalk show began. This was separated into two sections: Pret a Porter and Premiere Vision – the sort of couture section, though I would have struggled to define the two apart myself. Two bum-numbing hours later Marcellous was hauled onto the catwalk to present a gift from Kenzo Takada and then we arose for a break… which mainly consisted of heading for the free Stock vodka bar in the VIP lounge upstairs.

Golden Thread Award Fashion Week Poland AW 2011

Then, round two, we had the awards ceremony, again conducted mainly in Polish so I could only really hazard a guess at what was going on. How’s this for a summary: lots of awards were basically given to the same few designers, who struggled to balance their gifts in their arms.

Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska‘s Modus Vivendi collection which won the Pret-a-porter division at The Golden Thread Awards, AW 2011

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Agnieszka Kowalska, winner of the Premiere Vision category at The Golden Thread Awards. A/W 2011

The major prize Pret a Porter went to Monika Jaworska for her Modus Vivendi collection… sweet enough but not my favourite by a long shot. In the Premiere Vision category Agnieska Kowalska was a worthy winner for her flouncy tea-stained collection Sza?apot, definitely one of the strongest on the catwalk. If I’d been choosing winners both Dominika Piekutowska Swed and Paulina Matuszelanska would definitely have figured in there somewhere.

Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominika Piekutowska Swed.

Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Paulina Matuszelanska.

I’d say check out The Golden Thread award website for more information, but as with many designers in Poland the website for the award does not appear to be a priority – it’s pretty basic to say the least. Business-like, it might even be fair to say. Hardly inspiring stuff given the nature of the award, which is a wonderful kickstart for creative young Polish fashion designers.

Coming up: a run down of each show, with my analysis of Polish fashion trends…

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieska Kowalska, ,Celebrity, ,competition, ,couture, ,Dog, ,Dominika Piekutowska Swed, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,french, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,graduate, ,Jack Russell, ,Kenzo Takada, ,Lodz, ,Marcellous, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,Paprocki & Brzozowski, ,Paulina Matuszelanska, ,Phaedra, ,poland, ,Polish, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Stock vodka, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,VIP, ,Złota Nitka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ornella Iannuzzi: an interview with fine art jeweller and ‘Jewellery Oscar’ gold award winner

Ornella Iannuzzi Iris van Gelder
Ornella Iannuzzi by Iris van Gelder.

Ornella Iannuzzi is a fine art jeweller who has trained in both France and the UK. I discovered her unique and unusual designs at the latest edition of London Fashion Week, where she presented a beautiful and playful new collection titled Rock It! as part of the Rock Vault selection. Here she answers a few questions about her process and inspiration.

Ornella Iannuzzi Portrait
You have an Italian name but grew up in the French alps, can you describe a bit more about your childhood, upbringing and influences which have contributed to your style?
My dad is Italian and my mum French and I grew up in a small village in the French Alps surrounded by forests, lakes, and stunning landscapes that witness the geological processes which occurred with the formation of the mountains. So I have been totally immersed in Nature from when I was born. The little hood next to our house was my playground and I could spend hours hidden there, waiting for any wild animals to pop out, or just observing trees, plants and rocks. I loved to go minerals hunting too. I would cherish the crystals I found like a very precious treasure! By growing in such surroundings, I learnt to look at Nature differently, and it has had a significant impact on my work. I feel very closely linked to Nature and I believe people can see this through my jewellery.

Ornella Iannuzzi A l'Ere Glaciere
Ornella Iannuzzi Earrings A l'Ere Glaciaire
Why did you decide to attend the RCA after learning the technical aspects of jewellery making in France, and what did your various studies teach you?
I decided to come to the RCA to do a Master and explore my creativity as France is still a bit restricted in this area. The weight of the tradition is so powerful in France that it leaves very little space for thinking “out of the box”. UK is the right place for this. So I have the best of both eductational systems in the end : The technical skills and high quality craftsmanship from France and daring creativity and originality from UK!

Ornella Iannuzzi Earrings Cage Rock It ! 18KY
Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It ! cage pendant
How did you develop the idea for your caged opal pieces, showcased at London Fashion Week?
I have been working with opal spheres for few years now, including them in various collections, and when I came with my new collection based on the dodecahedron crystallisation, it occured to me that the sphere should be inside the dodecahedron, free to move, and the cage came to my mind consequently.

Ornella-Iannuzzi-Exceptionnelle-Emeraude-ring
Ornella Iannuzzi Cuff l'Exceptionnelle Emeraude
What are your favourite gemstones and metals to work with and why?
Opals for sure! I discovered the Ethiopian opals back in 2009 and it was LOVE at first sight! As mentioned, I have included them in all my collection since then and I even created a whole collection based on them in 2010: Lucy in Wonderland inspired by my trip to Ethiopia to source the rough stones. I have detailed my journey and the inspiration behind each pieces on my Facebook page, in the photo albums section here. And I also love emerald crystals. Then I love yellow and rose gold for their warm colours and they are such great metal to work with, although rose gold is a bit more challenging then yellow…

Ornella Iannuzzi Ring 2 crystals Rock It !
Who commissions your bespoke pieces?
Collectors, art amateurs, business men and women, and mostly ladies who like to stand out in the crowd and make a statement.

Ornella Iannuzzi Cufflinks Rock It!
Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It ! studs
What prompted the move from fine art jewellery into pret-a-porter ranges, and what have been the challenges in translating your luxe designs into everyday wearable pieces at a lower price point?
My Fine Art Jewellery is more special occasion wear and I sell them only direct. As I wanted to start exporting, I have launched my Prêt-à-Porter collections which came also because I wanted to create some jewellery for daily wear, and more affordable too. Adapting my style to a commercial range was a challenge because I am used to make bold and unique pieces, not production work. So I had to think differently when designing. I also had to change my business model in order to enter the trade market and this was a bit of a challenge too since it involved re-branding and review my strategies.

Ornella-Iannuzzi The Uprising ring
You recently won two Gold Awards at the ‘Jewellery Oscars’ – what piece attracted this accolade and how did you get chosen for the awards?
My latest Fine Art Jewellery ring The Uprising (above) – made in 18k rose gold, diamonds and pearls. I enter the piece to the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards and the judges made their decision according to the categories criterias.

Marvel at more of Ornella Iannuzzi‘s creations on her website here.

Categories ,Dodecahedron, ,french, ,Gold Award, ,Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards, ,interview, ,Iris van Gelder, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Oscars, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy in Wonderland, ,Ornella Iannuzzi, ,Pret-a-porter, ,rca, ,Rock It!, ,Rock Vault, ,Royal College of Art, ,The Uprising

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Amelia’s Magazine | Roland Mouret in conversation with Colin McDowell at Selfridges

Roland Mouret by Yasmeen Ismail
Roland Mouret by Yasmeen Ismail.

I’m sure I don’t need to tell you what a hellish place Oxford Street is when you’re in a rush. Last Thursday, viagra having legged it home from work to change (what, click did you think I was going turn up in front of not one, but two living fashion legends in my standard office attire?) I had to dash out of Bond Street tube station, dodge hordes of dawdling tourists and run up three escalators to find I’d missed the first five minutes of the event. I was at Selfridges to watch fashion journalist Colin McDowell interviewing designer Roland Mouret in front of an audience of about 50 people. I needn’t have worried about my tardiness though. The next forty-five minutes were a fashion writer’s dream come true – Mouret’s wonderfully Gallic way with words elicited more truisms, maxims and aphorisms than a whole fashion week’s worth of backstage interviews. And, of course, a few clichés too, but I won’t begrudge him that.

Scarlett Johansson in Roland Mouret By Melissa Kime
Scarlett Johansson in Roland Mouret by Melissa Kime.

Straight off the bat, French-born Mouret reminisced dreamily about how the first shop he worked in was ‘like a window to the rest of the world,’ because it allowed him to observe people and what they wore close up. This was not some glamorous Parisian boutique, though; it was his parent’s butchers shop. Which prompted McDowell to ask what Mouret thought of dress made of meat that Lady Gaga wore to the 2010 MTV Music Video Awards. According to Mouret, Gaga is an artist whose genius borders on madness – ‘maybe it’s because inside she is as raw as the meat she was wearing’ he deadpanned – and he doesn’t envy that level of fame: ‘I’m really lucky that my dresses are more famous than me.’ But Mouret isn’t precious about how his customer chooses to dress, nor does the designer long for a return to the time of formality when gloves, hats and matching shoes were de rigueur for women. ‘It’s so easy to find the past quite charming and quite romantic but I find life more interesting now. I love to see what women want to buy from me and mix with other designers’

Roland Mouret's Galaxy Dress by Lou Taylor
Roland Mouret’s Galaxy Dress by Lou Taylor.

Roland Mouret started his design career late in life by today’s standards. ‘I was 36 and I said to myself, if at 40 I’m not making clothes I’m going to be a bitter bastard.’ Now a full-time London resident, he first came to England in the eighties and co-owned a nightclub for a time. Attracted by the counter-culture of Soho, he saw London as the ‘other side of the mirror’ to tasteful, Chanel-worshiping France. With no formal fashion design training, Mouret funded his own first ‘demi-couture’ collection, his definition of that being ‘when someone who doesn’t know how to make clothes tries to make some clothes and pretend they are couture.’ £2000 paid for all the fabric, production and the final show, but he had to cut corners at times, for instance using his own bed sheets to cut patterns until a friend told him that he should be using calico. ‘That winter I was producing the clothes myself on a manual sewing machine. The needle went through my finger so many times and I was bleeding on the clothes and I thought ‘it’s so conceptual, my DNA is on the clothes!’’

Scarlett Johansson Rouland Mouret Dress by Claire Kearns
Scarlett Johansson in a Rouland Mouret Dress by Claire Kearns.

Mouret concentrated on dresses simply because he didn’t know how construct anything more complicated. ‘I used hatpins instead of safety pins, but the first time someone wore [one of my dresses] when she came out of the car she had her arse to the public. So I had to learn how to make a zip.’

Seven years later it was those early dresses that inspired the watershed moment in Roland Mouret’s career, bringing him international fame and credibility. ‘I said to my team, I want to go back to the first dress, the dress that I never finished. And I had just met two women in my life, and I realised that I didn’t have anything for them in my collection.’ Those two women happened to be Dita von Teese and Scarlett Johansson. So, in 2005, the tight, sexy, cinch-waisted Galaxy Dress was born. Adopted as red carpet uniform by A-listers on both sides of the Atlantic, a million high street copies were spawned and the dress gained modern classic status almost instantly. The genius of the Galaxy was that it showed off an hourglass figure perfectly, but also gave the illusion of an hourglass shape on even someone as skinny as Victoria Beckham, who became a close friend of Mouret’s.

roland_mouret_dita_von_tease_soni_speight
Dita von Teese in Roland Mouret by Soni Speight.

That friendship proved to be instrumental in Mouret’s career. Amidst all the success and adulation Mouret split from his business partner, came close to bankruptcy and lost the right to sell his designs under the Roland Mouret moniker. It was at that point that Beckham introduced the designer to former Spice Girls manager Simon Fuller, who became Mouret’s new business partner. In 2010 they bought back the Roland Mouret name, a feat few designers in the same situation have managed.

GALAXY & DNA DRESS BY CHRIS RODWELL
The Galaxy dress by Chris Rodwell.

The Roland Mouret brand is still growing. A stand-alone shop at 8 Carlos Place in Mayfair opened in January this year and his first menswear collection launches for spring 2012. The latter came about when Mouret realised that at 46-years-old ‘there was nothing was on the market for me.’ Does his design philosophy differ for menswear? The importance of men and women dressing for each other is not lost on Mouret, but it’s the motivation that differs with mens clothing. ‘Men would love to undress the woman I dress and women would like to borrow an outfit from the man I dress,’ he told McDowell. Either way, Mouret loves to see his designs translated into real life. ‘With my new space in London, when [customers] come and try an outfit it’s so fantastic for me to be a part of their life through that outfit.’

London has served the designer well, and created that rare thing, a Frenchman who recognizes that the French have a tendency towards arrogance: ‘I still argue with people when I go back to France and they think they’re the best.’ I came away from the interview liking Roland Mouret, and not just because he’s a veritable sound bite machine. He’s got a blend of self-awareness and measured self-confidence that’s quite unique in the ego-driven fashion industry. If you ask me, he deserves nothing but credit for the hard work and raw talent that has taken him from the butcher’s shop to the stars.

Categories ,8 Carlos Place, ,Chris Rodwell, ,Claire Kearns, ,Colin McDowell, ,Demi-Couture, ,Dita Von Teese, ,Dress made of meat, ,french, ,Galaxy Dress, ,Ickleson, ,Lady Gaga, ,london, ,Lou Taylor, ,Mayfair, ,Meat Dress, ,Melissa Kime, ,MTV Music Video Awards, ,paris, ,Roland Mouret, ,Scarlett Johansson, ,Selfridges, ,Simon Fuller, ,Soni Speight, ,Victoria Beckham, ,Yasmeen Ismail

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central St Martins BA Show

Last night was the BA fashion show from the students of Central St Martins in a blisteringly hot Bethnal Green York Hall, hospital search where forty students had their work sent down the catwalk to an audience expecting nothing except the best and, web of course, the wackiest. With such a massive amount of creativity flying about it saw an awful lot of boxes being ticked, including (unfortunately) the prerequisite models who couldn’t make it down the runway without falling over the sheer volume of fabric they were swathed in.

It’s a strange and sometimes disconcerting sensation being hurtled straight into the centre of somebody imagination for only about a minute and a half, and some informed you of their vision more immediately and successfully than others. Particularly memorable was Caroline Jarvis’s menswear, a selection of loose knits, oversized jerseys, with a gorgeous fair isle cardigan and wooden birdbox accessories (a rucksack and a bumbag, as you ask).

birdbox.jpg

birdbox%20backpack.jpg

I found it a really well put together collection and that’s effortlessly wearable but also enduring, with relaxed, rural overtones that provided a welcome dose of rustic respite amidst a sea of harsh, futuristic designs, with the models lobbing a stone back and forth between them a likeable touch.

carolinejarvis.jpg

I especially like the roughly cut schoolboy shorts on the final look, and the velvet pantaloons combined with some knitted socks. At the opposite end of the spectrum was John Booth, whose pieces had the air of children let loose with a whole lot of psychedelic crayons and felt tips, with raincoats covered in cartoon patches, giant beads and more colour than I’ve ever seen anywhere, ever, in the world.

jboo.jpg

Apart from in Peter Bailey’s collection of course, which saw giant plasticated jewellery and rockabilly straw hats against clashing check and polka dot prints. Pessimism certainly had no place here.

pb1.jpg

pb2.jpg

Knitwear was a popular choice and cropped up in unlikely places, including some seriously thick knitted trousers (by Sorada Thaiwaranon) that had the roasting hot audience looking on aghast. In fact the revelation of the evening seemed to be influence of craft on many of the collections, showing how the sustainable act of making perhaps has become more current than ever. Included in this was runner up Luke Brooks whose models were in some cases almost entirely enclosed in basket-weave cocoons, and elsewhere there were enormous thatch pockets, woven string blouses, wire coats and basket shoulder-pads. The patchwork tulip dress by Tamaki Fujie was another favourite, accessorised with a neckscarf made of flowers and a feather headdress.

tam2.jpg

tamaki1.jpg

The most positive responses seemed to be generated by the pastoral – maybe expressing some sort of growing ambivalence towards urban life, now that things are perhaps a bit more austere than we would like.

The winning collection was Dutch fashion print student Marie Hill, who sent out a series of fluorescent-techno bodycon cocktail dresses, with the body divided by contour lines of delicate folds with spider webs taut at the back.

Marie3.jpg

The construction seemed to reveal a tension of ideas, and we found out afterwards from Marie that she was keen to do something technically impressive with the materials that had been donated by 3M. The fabrication certainly lent her designs a toughness, which I think successfully created a curious dialogue with the sophisticated evening silhouettes on show.

mh6.jpg

She actually changed her whole collection two weeks before the show because she wanted it to be more feminine so I wonder how the robust materials translated prior to the revamp. The reflective pieces were actually safety vests cut into thin strips, and like Olga Shishinka who appeared to use old tent material, it was an opportune foray into the reuse of materials.

Olga1.jpg

Obviously a lot of trends were pandered to here – there were more jumpsuits than you could shake a stick for instance. The only rule here as an audience member is never to raise an eyebrow: you never know what you might be wearing next year.

Photos: Catwalking.com

Categories ,catwalk, ,craft, ,graduate, ,graphic prints, ,knitwear, ,reusable fabrics

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with jewellery designer Kyoko Hashimoto


Ruth Strugnell

Bath Spa’s electric and original collections show they’re not afraid to mix things up at Graduate Fashion Week. 

Bath Spa began with all guns blazing for their boutique show with Bournemouth, nurse setting the scene with a soundtrack of haunting thunder and lightning. As suspense grew, order a model stepped into the spot light…with a lampshade on her head. As more models filtered onto the catwalk, cure Ruth Strugnell’s quirky eccentricity became clearer in garments that made the most of mismatching, from multicoloured socks to panels composed of various prints and wools. Despite looking like they might’ve had a tussle in a dressing up box, the models’ nipped in waists and cute, soft take on the harem pants added a sense of maturity and direction to the pieces.  

Jack Duffy mixed things up again with clashing prints and a melding of culture; oversize jackets suggested elements of Eastern tradition, whilst large, ornate collars mould themselves round the body into demi-hoods more befitting of European nobility. 

Thierry Davies’s hypnotic monochrome prints bend the mind but when paired with a neat, boxy jacket a line of harmony seems to be drawn amongst the chaos. Another perennial favourite of this year appears again – the jump-suit, this time spruced up with a dramatic contrast between blue and white sections. 

Jodie Clay’s garments varied from the loose, long hem of her black jacket to the glitz of a bespoke neckpiece and sheer blouse. The wardrobe of the 1920s women was re-examined in the modern context and energised with splashes of murky blues, but held an element of reticent class.

Natalie Ellis’s use of vintage fur coats and gloves reminded us of the staple role they played in the wardrobes of women gone by, but cropped double colour trousers were a reminder of Ellis’s unfailing dedication to modernity. Interesting shapes appeared on the body as high waisted trousers split cream khaki and black across the body, complimented by ethereal, floating blouses and fur barrel bags. 
*Here at Amelia’s Magazine we don’t advocate any wearing of fur at all, so we hope this is fake, otherwise, DON’T WEAR IT!*

Outi Silvola deconstructed apparel in the most immediate sense, repositioning collars, shoulders and buttons to give a mixed up feel that wouldn’t look out-of-place in Dover Street Market. A fully made collar placed forward on the body was a walking work of art. A shirt is at once open at yet concealing the figure, showing a careful appreciation of the simple practise of putting clothes on the human body. 

Photographs by Nina Joyce

Ruth Strugnell

Bath Spa’s electric and original collections show they’re not afraid to mix things up at Graduate Fashion Week. 

Bath Spa began with all guns blazing for their boutique show with Bournemouth, site setting the scene with a soundtrack of haunting thunder and lightning. As suspense grew, information pills a model stepped into the spot light…with a lampshade on her head. As more models filtered onto the catwalk, more about Ruth Strugnell’s quirky eccentricity became clearer in garments that made the most of mismatching, from multicoloured socks to panels composed of various prints and wools. Despite looking like they might’ve had a tussle in a dressing up box, the models’ nipped in waists and cute, soft take on the harem pants added a sense of maturity and direction to the pieces.  

Jack Duffy mixed things up again with clashing prints and a melding of culture; oversize jackets suggested elements of Eastern tradition, whilst large, ornate collars mould themselves round the body into demi-hoods more befitting of European nobility. 

Thierry Davies’s hypnotic monochrome prints bend the mind but when paired with a neat, boxy jacket a line of harmony seems to be drawn amongst the chaos. Another perennial favourite of this year appears again – the jump-suit, this time spruced up with a dramatic contrast between blue and white sections. 

Jodie Clay’s garments varied from the loose, long hem of her black jacket to the glitz of a bespoke neckpiece and sheer blouse. The wardrobe of the 1920s women was re-examined in the modern context and energised with splashes of murky blues, but held an element of reticent class.

Natalie Ellis’s use of vintage fur coats and gloves reminded us of the staple role they played in the wardrobes of women gone by, but cropped double colour trousers were a reminder of Ellis’s unfailing dedication to modernity. Interesting shapes appeared on the body as high waisted trousers split cream khaki and black across the body, complimented by ethereal, floating blouses and fur barrel bags. 
*Here at Amelia’s Magazine we don’t advocate any wearing of fur at all, so we hope this is fake, otherwise, DON’T WEAR IT!*

Outi Silvola deconstructed apparel in the most immediate sense, repositioning collars, shoulders and buttons to give a mixed up feel that wouldn’t look out-of-place in Dover Street Market. A fully made collar placed forward on the body was a walking work of art. A shirt is at once open at yet concealing the figure, showing a careful appreciation of the simple practise of putting clothes on the human body. 

Photographs by Nina Joyce

Jeweller Kyoko Hashimoto has just opened a new shop/studio in Berlin called We Are All Made of Stuff. Born in Japan, diagnosis Kyoko grew up in Australia and studied jewellery design at university. She worked on conceptual designs until setting up her own label in 2006, diagnosis and she lived in Sydney and then Tokyo before moving to Berlin. Her designs play with different textures and nature-inspired themes, creating a look that’s modern and whimsical at the same time.

Can you tell me a bit about how your own label came about?
I was travelling through Europe in the the summer of 2005, and found myself completely out of money in the fairy-tale city of Venice. It felt really surreal to be broke in such a gorgeous city. I had studied jewellery design at university, but I wasn’t really using it to earn anything – instead I was teaching English to high school kids in Tokyo. I thought, “I can do better than this.” So when I returned from my holidays, I really set my mind on creating something new and committed myself whole-heartedly to design and production.


Illustration by Paolo Caravello

What techniques and materials do you most enjoy using in your work?
I enjoy working with acrylic. It’s the medium I feel most connected with. I like the consistency and the range of colours, transparencies and depth.
Synthetic polymers have been my choice of material since my university days, and I used to do a lot of resin casting. I stopped using polyester resin because of its toxicity, but I still really enjoy working with acrylic; I like the choice of colours and forms that can be achieved with relative ease. I use a combination of traditional and industrial techniques, although given the choice, I far prefer working with traditional methods. You can definitely see the difference in a finished object that has been hand-crafted, and one that has had little or no contact with the hand. Certain imperfections can also bring charm to an object.

In your most recent collection, Shadow of Lula, you’ve created pieces that look both Victorian and contemporary at the same time. Where did the inspiration to explore traditional mourning jewellery come from?
I love reading about the history of jewellery and fashion. Jewellery as a national fashion was at its height when Queen Victoria was mourning the death of her husband Prince Albert. She was so iconic and influential that the whole of England also went into a phase of mourning, and sentimental jewellery became very popular. I like thinking about the notion of sentimentality in jewellery, and I wanted to create a collection reflecting the same sense of nostalgia and longing, but in a contemporary context. So I chose environmentalism as a theme and made jewellery to mourn extinct animals, threatened by industry and environmental destruction.

You mentioned on your blog that the different countries you’ve worked in have, in general, different fashion aesthetics – that people in the UK tend to embrace bold statement jewellery, and Germany tends to be more understated.  Having moved around the world quite a bit, do you find that the location – and the local style – influence your designs?
Absolutely. When I was living in Tokyo my aesthetic was definitely influenced by the underground subculture aesthetics. I used to be good friends with the kids that hung around Harajuku and were often featured in fashion magazines like Fruits. Their unique and colourful sense of fashion influenced me to make pieces that were bold and also somewhat strange and nonsensical. Now, living in Berlin, I have noticed that people do not wear very much statement jewellery, so I am trying to indulge in their aesthetics. It is much more understated here, minimal but also more sophisticated.

What’s it like working in Berlin compared with the other places you’ve lived in?
It’s great, because everyone here is either an artist, designer or a musician. It’s nice to engage in passionate talk about art or the exhibitions we’ve seen, and the price of housing means that people can afford a nice working space to create. It gives us more freedom to do what we love to do.


Illustration by Paolo Caravello

You used the texture of a pomelo as inspiration for one of your pendants. Do you draw a lot of inspiration from the natural world? What do you find particularly inspiring at the moment?
Yes, I guess nature is always going to be a huge pool of inspiration for me. Moving around a lot means things are always a little different, which I really like. For example, with the pomelo, I’d never seen of those before. My flatmate here in Berlin was eating it everyday, and I was thinking: “It’s not an orange… it’s not a grapefruit… what the…?”

At the moment, I’m inspired by what I saw when I went to the Natural History Museum. A huge collection of curiosities were on display in these glass cabinets. I just love old objects from the era before the Industrial Revolution. They are never perfect and there’s such an unspeakable, precious quality to them.

Which are your favourite pieces you’ve created recently?
I like the ‘Toby’ pendant I made here in Berlin. I think it embraces a new aesthetic for me, working with these rubber sponge balls I found, and also tackling the soldering iron, which I don’t often do. The oxidised sterling silver frame is made from a single sheet of metal. Maybe it’s my current favourite because it is also the newest… I’ll have to see how I feel about it in a few weeks!

Are there any other designers whose work you particularly admire?
I love the work of fashion designer Sandra Bucklung – her masterfully knitted garments are a work of art. I also admire the work of jeweller Ted Noten, whom I met when he was teaching my partner Guy Keulemans in the Netherlands. Ted likes to cast objects like guns and cocaine powder inside clear resin; the concept is simple yet extremely provocative.

We Are All Made of Stuff opened this week in Berlin. How’s it going so far, and where did the idea to set it up come from?
It happened by luck. A friend we met in Berlin knew someone who knew someone who had the space available. I actually never thought I would open a store, but if it was going to be anywhere, this would be the place. Guy and I designed the interior of the shop, together with our Austrian architect friend Christoph Hager. The result is wonderful. Really, I could not be happier and we’ve already had tons of people stop by to check it out and have a chat.

Is it a working space as well as a shop? Which other designers are showing or working there?
As well as showing mine and Guy’s work, we have jewellery pieces by fellow Australian designers like Make Believe and Anneliese Hauptstein, as well as local and European designers such as Berlin jeweller Susanne Schmitt and A&Ré, a French duo who make wonderful things with concrete. And more designers to come.
The space is a shop but also a workspace. We needed to divide these two functions, but uniquely, and without being heavy or obtrusive. So we created a kind of porous curtain made up of hundreds of individual strings hanging from the ceiling. It divides the space diagonally, and supports jewellery plinths, but you can also walk through it. Its very light and delicate. Behind the strings are workbenches, and these are removable, so we can clear the space and party!

That’s probably keeping you very busy at the moment, but have you got any other projects or collections coming up that we can look out for?
Yes, but it’s a secret for now!

Categories ,A&Ré, ,Acrylic, ,Anneliese Haupstein, ,berlin, ,Christoph Hager, ,french, ,Germany, ,Guy Keulemans, ,interview, ,japan, ,jewellery, ,Kyoko Hashimoto, ,Make Believe, ,Netherlands, ,Paolo Caravello, ,Pomelo, ,Sandra Bucklung, ,Shadow of Lula, ,Susanne Schmitt, ,Ted Noten, ,Toby pendant, ,tokyo, ,Venice, ,Victoria & Albert, ,We Are All Made of Stuff, ,Workspace

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with jewellery designer Kyoko Hashimoto


Ruth Strugnell

Bath Spa’s electric and original collections show they’re not afraid to mix things up at Graduate Fashion Week. 

Bath Spa began with all guns blazing for their boutique show with Bournemouth, nurse setting the scene with a soundtrack of haunting thunder and lightning. As suspense grew, order a model stepped into the spot light…with a lampshade on her head. As more models filtered onto the catwalk, cure Ruth Strugnell’s quirky eccentricity became clearer in garments that made the most of mismatching, from multicoloured socks to panels composed of various prints and wools. Despite looking like they might’ve had a tussle in a dressing up box, the models’ nipped in waists and cute, soft take on the harem pants added a sense of maturity and direction to the pieces.  

Jack Duffy mixed things up again with clashing prints and a melding of culture; oversize jackets suggested elements of Eastern tradition, whilst large, ornate collars mould themselves round the body into demi-hoods more befitting of European nobility. 

Thierry Davies’s hypnotic monochrome prints bend the mind but when paired with a neat, boxy jacket a line of harmony seems to be drawn amongst the chaos. Another perennial favourite of this year appears again – the jump-suit, this time spruced up with a dramatic contrast between blue and white sections. 

Jodie Clay’s garments varied from the loose, long hem of her black jacket to the glitz of a bespoke neckpiece and sheer blouse. The wardrobe of the 1920s women was re-examined in the modern context and energised with splashes of murky blues, but held an element of reticent class.

Natalie Ellis’s use of vintage fur coats and gloves reminded us of the staple role they played in the wardrobes of women gone by, but cropped double colour trousers were a reminder of Ellis’s unfailing dedication to modernity. Interesting shapes appeared on the body as high waisted trousers split cream khaki and black across the body, complimented by ethereal, floating blouses and fur barrel bags. 
*Here at Amelia’s Magazine we don’t advocate any wearing of fur at all, so we hope this is fake, otherwise, DON’T WEAR IT!*

Outi Silvola deconstructed apparel in the most immediate sense, repositioning collars, shoulders and buttons to give a mixed up feel that wouldn’t look out-of-place in Dover Street Market. A fully made collar placed forward on the body was a walking work of art. A shirt is at once open at yet concealing the figure, showing a careful appreciation of the simple practise of putting clothes on the human body. 

Photographs by Nina Joyce

Ruth Strugnell

Bath Spa’s electric and original collections show they’re not afraid to mix things up at Graduate Fashion Week. 

Bath Spa began with all guns blazing for their boutique show with Bournemouth, site setting the scene with a soundtrack of haunting thunder and lightning. As suspense grew, information pills a model stepped into the spot light…with a lampshade on her head. As more models filtered onto the catwalk, more about Ruth Strugnell’s quirky eccentricity became clearer in garments that made the most of mismatching, from multicoloured socks to panels composed of various prints and wools. Despite looking like they might’ve had a tussle in a dressing up box, the models’ nipped in waists and cute, soft take on the harem pants added a sense of maturity and direction to the pieces.  

Jack Duffy mixed things up again with clashing prints and a melding of culture; oversize jackets suggested elements of Eastern tradition, whilst large, ornate collars mould themselves round the body into demi-hoods more befitting of European nobility. 

Thierry Davies’s hypnotic monochrome prints bend the mind but when paired with a neat, boxy jacket a line of harmony seems to be drawn amongst the chaos. Another perennial favourite of this year appears again – the jump-suit, this time spruced up with a dramatic contrast between blue and white sections. 

Jodie Clay’s garments varied from the loose, long hem of her black jacket to the glitz of a bespoke neckpiece and sheer blouse. The wardrobe of the 1920s women was re-examined in the modern context and energised with splashes of murky blues, but held an element of reticent class.

Natalie Ellis’s use of vintage fur coats and gloves reminded us of the staple role they played in the wardrobes of women gone by, but cropped double colour trousers were a reminder of Ellis’s unfailing dedication to modernity. Interesting shapes appeared on the body as high waisted trousers split cream khaki and black across the body, complimented by ethereal, floating blouses and fur barrel bags. 
*Here at Amelia’s Magazine we don’t advocate any wearing of fur at all, so we hope this is fake, otherwise, DON’T WEAR IT!*

Outi Silvola deconstructed apparel in the most immediate sense, repositioning collars, shoulders and buttons to give a mixed up feel that wouldn’t look out-of-place in Dover Street Market. A fully made collar placed forward on the body was a walking work of art. A shirt is at once open at yet concealing the figure, showing a careful appreciation of the simple practise of putting clothes on the human body. 

Photographs by Nina Joyce

Jeweller Kyoko Hashimoto has just opened a new shop/studio in Berlin called We Are All Made of Stuff. Born in Japan, diagnosis Kyoko grew up in Australia and studied jewellery design at university. She worked on conceptual designs until setting up her own label in 2006, diagnosis and she lived in Sydney and then Tokyo before moving to Berlin. Her designs play with different textures and nature-inspired themes, creating a look that’s modern and whimsical at the same time.

Can you tell me a bit about how your own label came about?
I was travelling through Europe in the the summer of 2005, and found myself completely out of money in the fairy-tale city of Venice. It felt really surreal to be broke in such a gorgeous city. I had studied jewellery design at university, but I wasn’t really using it to earn anything – instead I was teaching English to high school kids in Tokyo. I thought, “I can do better than this.” So when I returned from my holidays, I really set my mind on creating something new and committed myself whole-heartedly to design and production.


Illustration by Paolo Caravello

What techniques and materials do you most enjoy using in your work?
I enjoy working with acrylic. It’s the medium I feel most connected with. I like the consistency and the range of colours, transparencies and depth.
Synthetic polymers have been my choice of material since my university days, and I used to do a lot of resin casting. I stopped using polyester resin because of its toxicity, but I still really enjoy working with acrylic; I like the choice of colours and forms that can be achieved with relative ease. I use a combination of traditional and industrial techniques, although given the choice, I far prefer working with traditional methods. You can definitely see the difference in a finished object that has been hand-crafted, and one that has had little or no contact with the hand. Certain imperfections can also bring charm to an object.

In your most recent collection, Shadow of Lula, you’ve created pieces that look both Victorian and contemporary at the same time. Where did the inspiration to explore traditional mourning jewellery come from?
I love reading about the history of jewellery and fashion. Jewellery as a national fashion was at its height when Queen Victoria was mourning the death of her husband Prince Albert. She was so iconic and influential that the whole of England also went into a phase of mourning, and sentimental jewellery became very popular. I like thinking about the notion of sentimentality in jewellery, and I wanted to create a collection reflecting the same sense of nostalgia and longing, but in a contemporary context. So I chose environmentalism as a theme and made jewellery to mourn extinct animals, threatened by industry and environmental destruction.

You mentioned on your blog that the different countries you’ve worked in have, in general, different fashion aesthetics – that people in the UK tend to embrace bold statement jewellery, and Germany tends to be more understated.  Having moved around the world quite a bit, do you find that the location – and the local style – influence your designs?
Absolutely. When I was living in Tokyo my aesthetic was definitely influenced by the underground subculture aesthetics. I used to be good friends with the kids that hung around Harajuku and were often featured in fashion magazines like Fruits. Their unique and colourful sense of fashion influenced me to make pieces that were bold and also somewhat strange and nonsensical. Now, living in Berlin, I have noticed that people do not wear very much statement jewellery, so I am trying to indulge in their aesthetics. It is much more understated here, minimal but also more sophisticated.

What’s it like working in Berlin compared with the other places you’ve lived in?
It’s great, because everyone here is either an artist, designer or a musician. It’s nice to engage in passionate talk about art or the exhibitions we’ve seen, and the price of housing means that people can afford a nice working space to create. It gives us more freedom to do what we love to do.


Illustration by Paolo Caravello

You used the texture of a pomelo as inspiration for one of your pendants. Do you draw a lot of inspiration from the natural world? What do you find particularly inspiring at the moment?
Yes, I guess nature is always going to be a huge pool of inspiration for me. Moving around a lot means things are always a little different, which I really like. For example, with the pomelo, I’d never seen of those before. My flatmate here in Berlin was eating it everyday, and I was thinking: “It’s not an orange… it’s not a grapefruit… what the…?”

At the moment, I’m inspired by what I saw when I went to the Natural History Museum. A huge collection of curiosities were on display in these glass cabinets. I just love old objects from the era before the Industrial Revolution. They are never perfect and there’s such an unspeakable, precious quality to them.

Which are your favourite pieces you’ve created recently?
I like the ‘Toby’ pendant I made here in Berlin. I think it embraces a new aesthetic for me, working with these rubber sponge balls I found, and also tackling the soldering iron, which I don’t often do. The oxidised sterling silver frame is made from a single sheet of metal. Maybe it’s my current favourite because it is also the newest… I’ll have to see how I feel about it in a few weeks!

Are there any other designers whose work you particularly admire?
I love the work of fashion designer Sandra Bucklung – her masterfully knitted garments are a work of art. I also admire the work of jeweller Ted Noten, whom I met when he was teaching my partner Guy Keulemans in the Netherlands. Ted likes to cast objects like guns and cocaine powder inside clear resin; the concept is simple yet extremely provocative.

We Are All Made of Stuff opened this week in Berlin. How’s it going so far, and where did the idea to set it up come from?
It happened by luck. A friend we met in Berlin knew someone who knew someone who had the space available. I actually never thought I would open a store, but if it was going to be anywhere, this would be the place. Guy and I designed the interior of the shop, together with our Austrian architect friend Christoph Hager. The result is wonderful. Really, I could not be happier and we’ve already had tons of people stop by to check it out and have a chat.

Is it a working space as well as a shop? Which other designers are showing or working there?
As well as showing mine and Guy’s work, we have jewellery pieces by fellow Australian designers like Make Believe and Anneliese Hauptstein, as well as local and European designers such as Berlin jeweller Susanne Schmitt and A&Ré, a French duo who make wonderful things with concrete. And more designers to come.
The space is a shop but also a workspace. We needed to divide these two functions, but uniquely, and without being heavy or obtrusive. So we created a kind of porous curtain made up of hundreds of individual strings hanging from the ceiling. It divides the space diagonally, and supports jewellery plinths, but you can also walk through it. Its very light and delicate. Behind the strings are workbenches, and these are removable, so we can clear the space and party!

That’s probably keeping you very busy at the moment, but have you got any other projects or collections coming up that we can look out for?
Yes, but it’s a secret for now!

Categories ,A&Ré, ,Acrylic, ,Anneliese Haupstein, ,berlin, ,Christoph Hager, ,french, ,Germany, ,Guy Keulemans, ,interview, ,japan, ,jewellery, ,Kyoko Hashimoto, ,Make Believe, ,Netherlands, ,Paolo Caravello, ,Pomelo, ,Sandra Bucklung, ,Shadow of Lula, ,Susanne Schmitt, ,Ted Noten, ,Toby pendant, ,tokyo, ,Venice, ,Victoria & Albert, ,We Are All Made of Stuff, ,Workspace

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Amelia’s Magazine | Angels Big Vintage Sale

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“It’s nice everyone getting dressed up and making an effort, hospital stomach round Christmas time ‘n that”, generic slurred an old man at the bar after telling me this was his local. Halloween did he mean? A gaze and a nod.

Peggy Sue (there were some pirates but they’ve long since fled to the Caribbean to find themselves) have a knack of adding a distinct flavour to everything they do. Brewed in soulfulness and peppered with giggles, they are an intoxicating concoction of many lovely things; compared to the likes of Lauryn Hill and Regina Spektor in a single breath, all manner of genres tossed in their direction.

But references aside, that tend to reduce everybody to something regurgitated, there’s lots of other good stuff – like a compilation CD released for every month (100 copies only, complete with artwork), like how their voices emulate astonishing power and soft effortlessness all at once; or that their low-fi sound is brought together with honeyed harmonies, punctuated Spektor-like noises and an unending supply of bizarre percussion instruments. It is finally exquisitely tied together with lyrics that detach our body-parts as things to be stolen, tell stories of the woes of superheroes, and give life to ‘those fragile little things’ that live inside. It all feels very refreshing, and nicely homemade – ‘Peggy Who?’ asks the drum-face.

The Horror Movie Marathon had the Peggy stamp all over it, made apparent in its details. A projection screen hung behind them playing classic horror gems; a new horror song, complete with screams had been written for the occasion; and the widely acclaimed ‘superman’ was illustrated by a live puppet-show on stage. The wide-eyed Alessi’s Ark and feet-shuffling Derek Meins were there to support, marking the beginning of the Triptych Tour – one bus, two weeks, three acts. Catch them if you can in a venue near you! But what oh what does Triptych mean?

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Be Prepared, sildenafil long the motto of the Scouts, is now being added to by The London Climate Camp Social Group with Be Inspired and Be Involved. A series of nights around town broadly divided into these three headings encouraging all to socialise and fund-raise for Climate Camp.

Be Prepared nights fund-raise with bands, djs and comedy. It’s one to bring your friends who may not be into all the “eco stuff” but would be interested in finding out more about Climate Camp.
Be Inspired focuses on what’s going on at the moment. Film screenings, speakers and debates wil inform people what is happening and why Climate Camp is doing what its doing.
Be Involved is the actions based adventures, such as Climate Rush, the forthcoming Day of Action and what ever else happens in the future.

The first one is tomorrow and is a Be Inspired night held at The Old Crown, 33 New Oxford St starting at 19:00. The line up consists of Alistair James playing music, Leo Murray introducing his excellent animation Wake Up, Freak out and Get A Grip, a short presentation from Climate Camp about what is being done right now and where it’s going and why, including two ladies instrumental in organising Climate Rush. Plus plenty of music to dance the night away.

The Old Crown
33 New Oxford St (corner of Museum street),
London WC1A 1BH.
Between Holborn and Tottenham Court road tube station.

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Hotel International 1993

Dear Tracey, discount

It wasn’t so long ago that I really thought I’d had it up to my neck with you. I think it was one of your columns in the Independent that did it. You’d had a bad day, page you know, one of those ones when you don’t particularly feel like getting out of bed in the morning and then when you do, you burn your toast, or scald yourself in the shower or something. And instead of having a quick cry, or swearing, or generally getting on with things as most people might do, your especially bad day led you toward one overarching question: ‘did my dad ever really love me?’ I thought it was a tad dramatic. So upon hearing about your retrospective at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art I was expecting 20 years of torment in the space of a few rooms. And you didn’t disappoint. But what I wasn’t expecting was that I was going to leave the exhibition liking you. Feeling for you, maybe. Being critical of you, definitely. But actually liking you? No, I wasn’t expecting that. But there is a reason that we hear so much about you Tracey, because you know what, you’re actually a pretty good artist.

Emin’s exhibition opens much like one would expect it to, throwing the viewer head-first into the deep-end. The first work we encounter is a tribute to her deceased grandmother; the second, a graphic description of a traumatic abortion. All the staple Emin classics are here: the neon signs, the tapestries, expressionist etchings, and of course, the infamous bed. And yet after the piss-stains, the used condoms, the confessional video diaries, the purging of torment and the sheer tragedy of it all, something beautiful remains. Emin’s letter to her uncle Colin is a striking example of this. Lucid and incredibly moving, Emin succinctly describes her emotions as she learns of the horrific accident that caused her beloved uncle’s death. Exploration of the Soul, a work comprised of 32 sheets of handwritten text, is similar in its expressive eloquence. You may baulk at the several spelling mistakes, shudder at the sadness of other people’s lives or smile at the moments of humanity within it; Emin will fail to leave you unmoved.

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My Bed 1998

The further we continue through the exhibition the more we feel as though we are Emin’s confidante; her scars are ours now and they are weighing us down. To enter, toward the end, a room removed of much of the abject excess of the others, comes as welcome relief. Two sculptures in particular reveal the diversity of Emin’s talent as an artist. Self Portrait (Bath) comprises a rusty bath filled with bamboo, barbed wire, chicken wire and a contorted neon streak entwined to create a work of great textual interest. In the same room a rollercoaster of reclaimed wood, It’s Not The Way I Want to Die from 2005, dominates the space. Constructed entirely from old crates, the past life of the wood seems to echo Emin’s own (one plank retaining it’s FRAGILE label), but is here reworked into a somewhat rickety yet undeniably beautiful piece.

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It’s Not The Way I Want to Die 2005

Emin is a chameleon, expressing herself in several mediums and seemingly mastering them all. Love or loathe her – you won’t easily forget her, and to my mind, that’s what makes her continue to be worth talking about.

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The Perfect Place to Grow 2001

Images courtesy of Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

September marked the official UK launch of the new shopping/networking website, ampoule ShopStyle. Already popular amongst fashion followers in the US, viagra the best way to describe this new digital phenomenon would be a ‘Google for fashion with a MySpace twist‘. Shopstyle offers a unique online shopping experience, which enables users to browse the rails of thousands of brands through a simple search box option. Just like Google, ShopStyle carries out all the hard work trawling through shopping sites in order to bring you any matching items to your keywords. Users can also narrow down their searches by price, brand, store and size so only the most relevant results are displayed.

The site proved to be heaven sent in my own hunt to unearth a descent pair of gladiator heels, presenting me with options from new and smaller brands that I wouldn’t usually consider in my shopping choices.

ShopStyle’s nifty social networking twist means even those of us a little strapped for cash can still muzzle in on the spirit of fashion. The StyleBook tool allows users to play around and create their own fashion look books based on their own personal tastes and styles. These can be viewed by fellow users who are free to comment and discuss ideas. Unlike other virtual stores, ShopStyle embraces a love for fashion and creativity, moving beyond the simple idea of consumption.

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Keep an eye out next month as three emerging designers, selected by stylist to the stars, Bay Garnett, get the opportunity to display their collection on the site.

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Creaturemag sets out to bring together artists from all around the world, adiposity and produce an online publication, which works as one big collaboration. Being the arty literate types that they are, they’ve also created a sort of character out of the Creaturemag concept. This has led to an entertaining, if not ever so slightly confusing, interview with themselves, or Creaturemag – you kind of have to read it to understand.

They have just released Creaturemag festival edition – a diary of their activities over the summer. Its content though is a little more in depth than trudging through mud and drinking cider though. The wonderful cover has been done by long time Amelia’s contributor Nikki Pinder! It also features interviews with up and coming musical geniuses Alessi and Zombie Zombie.

Being the creative types that they are though, no pages go without a little artistic decoration. A group of top notch illustrators have contributed – bringing the entire thing to life.

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Crafty pirate

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Floating from festival to festival over the summer, the creatives behind Creaturemag have compiled pieces on the more out there festivals like Secret Garden Party and End Of The Road. The festival edition acts as a sort of guide to how they have often created their own arty fun at festivals this year. Perhaps the most intriguing of which is the feature on concrete mushrooms that were taken to festival all over the country. It is also a testament to how devoted they are to their art. The idea of dragging massive concrete mushrooms on top of the mounds of bags and tents I always end up hauling to campsite doesn’t appeal to me.

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Concrete mushrooms

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The whole thing just makes it look like the guys behind it have had the best summer ever, and it really makes me want to go back to a festival.

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As an entity we usually take in music that is self-consciously/appointed art-rock. It is often forgotten that this art-rock did not just pop out of Andy Warhol’s arse as he stood watching the Velvet Underground, more about he just brought an audience to Reed, buy Cale, see Morrison and Tucker’s genius. Although visual art did have an influence, it is the avant-garde classical that clashed with rhythm and blues to start this musical mongrel. LaMonte Young and the Fluxus movement popularised drones; Cage, Reich and Glass atonality and chance. Karlheinz Stockhausen is another visionary whose contribution cannot be forgotten. The great German- who sadly passed away last year- was a key contributor to the zygote cell stage of electronic music and developed his own musical language of complexity and rapturous transcendental irregular noise. Without him the work of- to mention a few acolytes- Kraftwerk, Zappa, Bjork, Can, Aphex Twin, Faust and Sonic Youth would be very different and have a few less words to rely upon in their collective musical lexicon.

The Royal Festival Hall and Purcell Rooms hosted Klang which was intended as a tribute for Stockhausen’s eightieth birthday. I was privy to two nights of the retrospective which proved to be one of the most amazing musical experiences I have ever had. The Friday night in the smaller Purcell Rooms began with Joy the second hour of Stockhausen’s incomplete twenty-four hour cycle. This was a piece composed for two harpists. The two former students of Stockhausen sat illuminated by a single spotlight dressed in white. They completely subverted my expectations of what a harp could do as the cut up fragments of a medieval German hymn mixed plucked or bashed arrythmic textures with youthful voices making strange phonetic noises. Subsequently, Cosmic Pulses (the thirteenth hour) was archetypal Stockhausen electronic music on 24 different tape loops played at differing speeds through eight surrounding speakers in the dark with a single moon like spotlight on stage. Bjork says Stockhausen mixed modernity with the primordial and natural ferocity of a thunderstorm. This displayed that contradictory dialectic as it buzzed brilliantly with unpredictable electric whip crack on rumbling menace.

I feel privileged to have seen the final night at the Royal Festival Hall. First as short electronic work was played, a token gesture for what was to follow. Lucifer’s Dance was utterly batshit. Performed by the Royal Northern College of Music Wind Orchestra, a solo drummer, flautist and opera singer dressed up as Lucifer himself. It was a comment on the spirit of contradiction and independence via the conduit of an orchestra pretending to be a grimacing demonic face. However, Stockhausen made people use their instruments idiosyncratically and it wasn’t a conventional (not that I have been to many) classical concert. The musicians had to dance, uncomfortably, in their chairs as they blew discordant squalling devil’s frown lines. The cameo from the amazing jazz drummer was particularly good, he represented nostrils. Weirdness. As we left the hall from the rooftops Michael’s Farewell was trumpeted over the Thames, a stunning experience, older fans were getting visibly emotional it may as well have been Karlheinz’s farewell for them. Many of his students, collaborators and friends were in attendance. People left with sad smiles and general wonder from what they had just experienced.
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I realised the other day that it had been quite some time since I had rocked out – it kind of just fell out of favour. Mainly because rocking out became so cringeworthy all of a sudden. The connotations appeared to have fallen into something deeply uncool, capsule instead of being the epitomy of it.

The answer to this life problem comes in the form of two bands. Rolo Tomassi; a band that are undeniably too fun for metal and too out there for indie, more about and Fucked Up!; a relentless hardcore band whose live show is almost more about what the lead singer is doing physically, rather than their ear punishing music.

Rolo Tomassi took to the stage and instantly impressed with their musicianship. The music skips from segment to segment with time signatures that befuddle the mind. They’re like some experimental jazz band, in the way that they take an anything goes approach, only more like a jazz band that has been raised by wolves – or something equally ridiculous.

Their set was simply fantastic, though with the catalog of songs they have on their album that came as no surprise. Their keyboard player came into his own during Abraxas, his assault on the keys reproducing something of an assault on my ears. They leave the audience thoroughly shaken, and all I could think about was how I couldn’t wait to see them again some time.

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With a name like Fucked Up! there is a certain amount of characteristics expected. They live up to, if not exceed, any kind of expectations imaginable. As soon as the lead singer hoists himself on stage he is something of a dominating presence, like some jurassic being – I was genuinely scared of this guy. On first hear they sound like a pretty standard American hardcore band, and it’s not until you see them live that you get a full understanding. The lead singer’s nonsensical ventures into the crowd, his hilarious jibes between songs and the general raucous in the crowd caused by their show somehow allows it to make sense.

I left the gig with a level of adrenaline that I haven’t felt whilst walking away from a gig in years. I’d recommend some time at a metal gig of this calibre to anyone, it is still a case of being careful though. As a genre it deals with both end of a spectrum. Prepare to listen to an awful lot of guff before you find the genre’s best bits.

Here at Amelia’s Magazine we’re all about nurturing design newbies, advice particularly if they’re as innovative and inspiring as Karen Karem. We first encountered Karen way back in the days of issue 6. Fresh out of Central St Martins and brimming with ideas, for sale she caught our eye with her funky range of horse shaped bags inspired by childhood dreams of magical fantasy lands. After two long years of hard work and some good ol’ fashioned elbow grease, information pills she’s now back to launch her debut Spring/Summer 09 clothing collection, Hard Cover Candy.

A peak into Karen’s treasure trove of inspirations reveals a concoction of nostalgic teenage memorabilia combined with a haphazard assortment of British items from eras past. Kitch accessories and pastel coloured cupcakes bump shoulders with jars of jellybeans, fluffy cotton candy, 60′s platforms, teenage heartthrobs and images of elegant ladies at brunch.

The collection itself consists of a range of dresses. Each contain a childlike quality but still manage to maintain a sense of femininity and elegance. Like her playful horse bags, Hard Cover Candy is for women who remember raiding their mothers wardrobes and dressing up in pretty frocks for birthday parties at the age of 9. They’re for women who like to daydream and still feel like little girls at heart.

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With a mixed colour palette of soft pastels and vibrant electrifying tones, Karen’s selection of baby doll dresses and floor length evening gowns use chiffon and ruffles to ensure a high level of grace and movement.

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With Vogue and Vanity Fair already showing an interest in the collection, it’s likely that Karen Karem will soon be sweeping us all along into her magical daydream world.

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To make music relaxing without descending into something boring requires great amounts of skill in arrangement and more often than not melody. These are two things that Finn has in milk tanker sized loads.

The music on this album rises and falls like a souffle. Beginning with the settling whispers of Half-Moon Stunned. Perhaps not the most exciting song on the album it introduces you to the subtle yet brooding voice of Finn. The restrained yet beautiful melodies of this song have an air of Sigur Ros, illness though on a much smaller scale.

Midway though the album things become a little more unsettled, with the romper that is Julius Caesar. All semi off key, there is a sense of panic in his voice – a device that reminds me of Thom Yorke‘s solo efforts. It pulls at the heartstrings purely through it’s melody, even without the hard hitting, blood spill heavy lyrics.

One of my favourite selections from the album is The Truth Is A Lie, again opting for those obtuse melodies, only this time with some very 60s percussion. This sets it off magnificently, making it far less dreary even though it’s steeped in melancholy. Only problem is, about halfway you remember what it really reminds me of. It does sound kind of like Duffy, if she was in a fowl mood and had a record label who had a conscience and would stop forcing that drivel upon us all.
Here’s one for the fashionettes, pharm the glam goddesses, purchase the couture collectors and anyone who dreams in fairytale fashion time. Make way for a new fashion address. Wembley is now the place to head for a truly avant-garde adventure.

Come December, a distinctly unfashionable warehouse on the outskirts of the city, in Wembley, should expect a style onslaught in the form of savvy shoppers and gracious costumiers, each of them on the hunt for a piece of design history. Think hand-sewn sequins and starry silhouettes. Or you might spy a vintage muse in second hand leather and spiky heels falling over flapper dresses and wartime headwear.

For the first time ever, Angels, Europe’s biggest, brightest and most iconic film and theatrical costumier, stages a mammoth clothing sale. More than 30, 000 items of vintage clothing, accessories and jewellery, including pieces featured in films, TV dramas and pop promos, are set for a starring role as a bargain addition to your wardrobe.

angels%20big%20vintage%20sale_1.jpg

The timing couldn’t be better. Bang in the middle of the credit crunch party season Angels have dropped the frou-frou price tag in favour of a far more festive payment system. You purchase an empty shopping bag on arrival, costing between £10 and £20, and fill it up with lush, lavish or downright ornamental day and eveningwear.

Angels%20Big%20Sale%2003.jpg

Tucked away in the fashioned up folds of this supersize event are gowns by Christian Dior and Jean Muir. Perhaps you’ll even come across a corset fresh from its debut on the silver screen. More exciting still for anyone inspired by street style looks are the High Street labels of yesteryear, including Chelsea Girl, Bus Stop and Artwork Blue. The sale acts as an archive of fashion’s forgotten favourites and is a snapshot of retro design pioneers.

Angels%20Big%20Sale%2004.jpg

Angels%20Big%20Sale%2002.jpg

Whatever you find, the event has widespread appeal, from members of the bargain hunter public to history of design scholars. The shopping elite can snatch at consumptive fulfillment in these credit crunch climes without having to settle for the mindless monotony of minimalism, a look traditionally touted by fashion forerunners in times of economic hardship. As the trend for re-wearing, recycling and reworking style statements from the past continues, fashion, at least, can still be fanciful and frivolous. This authentic collection of costumes stalks a precious historical timeline and offers the chance for you to put a new slant on generations of style. So steal yourself away from the urban high street shopping throng and spin North in your second hand heels. This is could be one of the shopping highlights of the season.

Categories ,Angels, ,Artwork Blue, ,Biba, ,Bus Stop, ,Chelsea Girl, ,Christian Dior, ,Fashion, ,Jean Muir, ,Recycle, ,Vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Delphine Lebourgeois: Sisters are doing it for themselves!

BARBIE1

Barbara Millicent Roberts, medical prostate you might know her better as Barbie, cialis 40mg turned the big 5-0 in 2009, shop March 9th to be exact. Rather than getting down about this life milestone she’s been partying all year long! To celebrate makers Mattel have launched line upon line of specialist dolls throughout 2009. From Hollywood Stars to Supermodels, It is now the turn of three ladies who, probably safe to say, may lead Barbie astray. “The Ladies of the 80’s” are The Pop star, The Rock star and The Punk Star. Cindi Lauper, Joan Jett and Blondie Babe, Debbie Harry.

CINDY1
Since her hit making heyday eccentric Miss Lauper has continued with music, just on a less successful scale. Saying that, her 2008 electronic album “Bring Ya To The Brink” was grammy nominated. Also in 2008 there was a strange collaboration between Cindi and The Hives when they recorded an almost anti-Christmas single entitled “A Christmas Duel”. This was only available in the bands native Sweden where it reached number 4. She continues to work with contrasting artists as she features on Wyclef Jeans latest track “Slumdog Millionaire”. Cindi shall present us with autobiography in 2010 as she continues to work with charities, appear in the odd crime drama and she shall surly find somebody else who nobody expected her at all to collaborate with. I’m wondering if anybody else thinks her doll looks more like Gloria Estefan though?

JOAN1

Besides being Barbie-fied Joan Jett has had a pretty busy year. Appearing in crime dramas seems to be a reoccurring theme with the ladies as Joan has also appeared in such shows, including Law & Order. Jett is producing a film entitled “The Runaways” which tells the story of the girl group of the same name that she began her career in. Now, What is the best way to get your film attention? Get two of the most in demand young ladies in the world to play the leading roles of course. The film features “Twilight” stars Dakota Fanning and Kirsten Stewart, the later playing Jett. The film due for release in 2010 and will be complimented very cleverly with a Greatest hits album that shall feature two new tracks.

DEBBIE1

Fellow CBGB alumni Miss Harry has also jumped onto the film bandwagon. She lends her voice to narrate “Downtown Calling” which features DJ:AM and Mos Def. The documentary film starts by looking back on a troubled NYC, circa 1970s. The developments in music and the arts are investigated and also how the city continues to be such a phenomenal influence in the industry today. In 2010 Harry shall contribute two tracks to a tribute album to Jeffrey Lee Pierce entitled ‘We Are Only Riders – The JLP Sessions Project’. Debbie’s Barbie captures the cover of “Plastic Letters” complete with microphone stand and pink PVC dress .

With the negative associations with Barbie as a role model its great that they have chosen three influential strong women to become the newest members of the gang and that these shall be in young girls toy boxes around the world. Introducing young girls to these great idols is a brilliant idea and shall perhaps provoke a new generation to look back and discover the stunning music of the ladies from the 80’s. Your Dad might also appreciate his own version of Debbie Harry in that revealing PVC dress before all the plastic surgery happened. If you think he will you can pre order the dolls that are released next month.

Dolls each sold separately.
Yesterday a group of activists joined representatives from Canada’s First Nation communities to protest against RBS’ continued funding into Tar Sands.

 
Tar sands is a particularly oily soil which is extracted by using huge open pit mining, pharm leaving huge 75 meter scars in the wake or by ‘In Situ mining’ which requires huge amounts of natural gas to operate.

 
Tar Sand extraction is also the dirtiest forms of oil, click producing 3 to 5 times as much Co2 per barrel as conventional oil, check which shows a desperate attempt by corporations and governments to profit from oil no matter the cost to the environment.

 
These ‘oil sands’ are found predominately in Canada, which means the US can look to have less reliance on oil from conflict regions such as the middle East. However it doesn’t stop them trampling over Indigenous communities in Canada, polluting the soil, water, turning forests and ecosystems into desolate wastelands and pushing groups of people that have lived sustainably for hundreds of years into extinction. Eriel Tchekwie Deranger, of the Athabasca Chipewyan First Nation of Northern Alberta, noted: “The tar sands is the world’s largest and most destructive industrial development. “It is destroying an area of ancient forest larger than England. Millions of litres a day of toxic waste are seeping into our groundwater and we are seeing terrifyingly high levels of cancer in our communities.”

The three women also from the First Nation communities had previously attended a meeting in Parliament to deliver an open letter to the Chancellor, Alistar Darling outlining the threat to their homes and were later planning to deliver the letter to an RBS representative.

Shouting and using megaphones they got their messages across and thanked all the people for coming down and showing solidarity with the movement. The women are on a tour of the country to promote their cause so make sure you catch up with them in your area.

Role-playing, shouting and mass dying everyone else on the protest organised by People and Planet, aimed to get their message across on the busy street, plenty of leaflets were also handed out even a fair few press turned up as well as the bankers themselves coming out for their lunch.

RBS is one of the big payers investing into Tar Sands, which they plan to expand production on over the next few decades. What is worse is that RBS is public owned since the banks bailout in 2008. We are effectively funding human rights abuses from Tar Sands extraction through our taxes and our treasury.

The protest yesterday was calling for RBS to shift investments away from projects like the tar sands as well as investment into things like the controversial new coal power plants planned by e-on.

 A few of the bankers obviously found it really funny that people would choose to lie on the street and not, instead wear a suit and tie and play with peoples money in the stock market, but hopefully with the continued presence outside the bank hopefully something might start getting into their heads.
Yesterday a group of activists joined representatives from Canada’s First Nation communities to protest against RBS’ continued funding into Tar Sands.

ts1
 
Tar sands is a particularly oily soil which is extracted by using huge open pit mining, information pills leaving huge 75 meter scars in the wake or by ‘In Situ mining’ which requires huge amounts of natural gas to operate.

Tar Sands extraction is also the dirtiest forms of oil, doctor producing 3 to 5 times as much Co2 per barrel as conventional oil, approved which shows a desperate attempt by corporations and governments to profit from oil no matter the cost to the environment.

These ‘oil sands’ are found predominately in Canada, which means the US can look to have less reliance on oil from conflict regions such as the middle East. However it doesn’t stop them trampling over Indigenous communities in Canada, polluting the soil, water, turning forests and ecosystems into desolate wastelands and pushing groups of people that have lived sustainably for hundreds of years into extinction.

ts6

Eriel Tchekwie Deranger, of the Athabasca Chipewyan First Nation of Northern Alberta, noted: “The tar sands is the world’s largest and most destructive industrial development. “It is destroying an area of ancient forest larger than England. Millions of litres a day of toxic waste are seeping into our groundwater and we are seeing terrifyingly high levels of cancer in our communities.”

ts2

The three women also from the First Nation communities had previously attended a meeting in Parliament to deliver an open letter to the Chancellor, Alistar Darling outlining the threat to their homes and were later planning to deliver the letter to an RBS representative.

Shouting and using megaphones they got their messages across and thanked all the people for coming down and showing solidarity with the movement. The women are on a tour of the country to promote their cause so make sure you catch up with them in your area.

ts3

Role-playing, shouting and mass dying everyone else on the protest organised by People and Planet, aimed to get their message across on the busy street, plenty of leaflets were also handed out even a fair few press turned up as well as the bankers themselves coming out for their lunch.

RBS is one of the big payers investing into Tar Sands, which they plan to expand production on over the next few decades. What is worse is that RBS is public owned since the banks bailout in 2008. We are effectively funding human rights abuses from Tar Sands extraction through our taxes and our treasury.

The protest yesterday was calling for RBS to shift investments away from projects like the tar sands as well as investment into things like the controversial new coal power plants planned by e-on.

ts4

 A few of the bankers obviously found it really funny that people would choose to lie on the street and not, instead wear a suit and tie and play with peoples money in the stock market, but hopefully with the continued presence outside the bank hopefully something might start getting into their heads.
BARBIE1

Barbara Millicent Roberts, ambulance you might know her better as Barbie, turned the big 5-0 in 2009, March 9th to be exact. Rather than getting down about this life milestone she’s been partying all year long! To celebrate makers Mattel have launched line upon line of specialist dolls throughout 2009. From Hollywood Stars to Supermodels, It is now the turn of three ladies who, probably safe to say, may lead Barbie astray. “The Ladies of the 80’s” are The Pop star, The Rock star and The Punk Star. Cindi Lauper, Joan Jett and Blondie Babe, Debbie Harry.

CINDY1
Since her hit making heyday eccentric Miss Lauper has continued with music, just on a less successful scale. Saying that, her 2008 electronic album “Bring Ya To The Brink” was grammy nominated. Also in 2008 there was a strange collaboration between Cindi and The Hives when they recorded an almost anti-Christmas single entitled “A Christmas Duel”. This was only available in the bands native Sweden where it reached number 4. She continues to work with contrasting artists as she features on Wyclef Jeans latest track “Slumdog Millionaire”. Cindi shall present us with autobiography in 2010 as she continues to work with charities, appear in the odd crime drama and she shall surly find somebody else who nobody expected her at all to collaborate with. I’m wondering if anybody else thinks her doll looks more like Gloria Estefan though?

JOAN1

Besides being Barbie-fied Joan Jett has had a pretty busy year. Appearing in crime dramas seems to be a reoccurring theme with the ladies as Joan has also appeared in such shows, including Law & Order. Jett is producing a film entitled “The Runaways” which tells the story of the girl group of the same name that she began her career in. Now, What is the best way to get your film attention? Get two of the most in demand young ladies in the world to play the leading roles of course. The film features “Twilight” stars Dakota Fanning and Kirsten Stewart, the later playing Jett. The film due for release in 2010 and will be complimented very cleverly with a Greatest hits album that shall feature two new tracks.

DEBBIE1

Fellow CBGB alumni Miss Harry has also jumped onto the film bandwagon. She lends her voice to narrate “Downtown Calling” which features DJ:AM and Mos Def. The documentary film starts by looking back on a troubled NYC, circa 1970s. The developments in music and the arts are investigated and also how the city continues to be such a phenomenal influence in the industry today. In 2010 Harry shall contribute two tracks to a tribute album to Jeffrey Lee Pierce entitled ‘We Are Only Riders – The JLP Sessions Project’. Debbie’s Barbie captures the cover of “Plastic Letters” complete with microphone stand and pink PVC dress .

With the negative associations with Barbie as a role model its great that they have chosen three influential strong women to become the newest members of the gang and that these shall be in young girls toy boxes around the world. Introducing young girls to these great idols is a brilliant idea and shall perhaps provoke a new generation to look back and discover the stunning music of the ladies from the 80’s. Your Dad might also appreciate his own version of Debbie Harry in that revealing PVC dress before all the plastic surgery happened. If you think he will you can pre order the dolls that are released next month.

Dolls each sold separately.
tiger hills low

Today, price we have the pleasure of speaking to Delphine Lebourgeois, buy more about a French illustrator living and working in the UK. Her free-spirited images show fellow women there is an amazon in all of us; Delphine’s creative quest lead her to leave her homeland and settle in London. Since then, viagra sale she has enjoyed working for a variety of clients in publishing, editorial and advertising.

carte_de_visite

Valerie Pezeron: Hello Delphine, how long have you been in the UK for and what made you move across the channel to live with “Les Roast beefs”?

Delphine Lebourgeois: I came in summer 1998, just after graduating, and looking for a change of air. I only intended to stay a couple of months, which turned into 3 then 4… After 2 years, it became home and I still love London for everything it has to offer culturally and career-wise.

VP: You experienced the French and English higher education system. Tell us about studying an MA at Central St Martins and how the experience compares with studying arts in French universities?

DL: Both were very different experiences, socially and academically. I studied fine art in Lyon when I was just 20 and the school was very conceptual. Aesthetic seduction was a no-no!! Tutors used to stir us away from anything just purely visually pleasing, and as a result the ideas became more important than the form or the technical skills. Socially, however, my BA was a school of life. All students lived very close to each other, we were like an extended family, and therefore, we shared something very strong. At St Martins in London, the social experience was somehow different. A wider variety of students and less time spent together meant that most of us were really focusing on work and the challenges of an MA. A this time, I started to develop a visual language and a pictorial style to convey my ideas. It was important for me to marry beautiful images and concepts, and the MA gave me the opportunity to explore this.

VP: What about the UK illustration industry compared with France’s?

DL: I have worked within the UK market for 4 years now and in the last few months, I have had a small taste of the French industry through my agent Illustrissimo. My feeling is that both markets are very different. There seem to be more opportunities in England when it comes to editorial and general publishing, while it is the opposite in certain areas such as children book. The French market is much more adventurous and quirky when it comes to Children picture books. The rates are also overall a lot better in England (but it’s not too bad at the moment as the Euro is so strong!)

the thief low

VP: Many illustrators point to their childhood as the key formative element that made them want to become an illustrator. Tell us about one significant moment that influenced the child drawer to dedicate her adult life to making pictures?

DL: When I was a child, I wanted to be an archeologist. The joy of digging mud and discovering treasures I guess! I wasn’t born with a pencil in my hand, and I only started to draw when I was a teenager. I remember well the day my parents offered me a box of pastels. Not a medium that I would use now, but I drew a cherry tree branch with those, and I still have it. My teenage years were of course very formative. I was writing a lot, creating stuff, building an identity and an imaginary world which would gradually lead to what I do now. I never decided to become an illustrator. I understood I was one at the age of 30, finally feeling happy about what I was doing!!

VP: You describe your illustrations as feminine, fun, quirky and delicate. Are there any female artists out there you keep an eye out for? Also, what would you say are your influences?

DL: I have just discovered the illustrations of Helen Builly and I think they are fantastic. There is also Zoe Mendelson, Petra Borner, Rachell Sumpter, Fernanda Cohen, Paula Scher, Nina Katchadourian and many men artists too: Marcel Dzama, Henry Darger, Jockum Nordstrom...and in a pure stylistic way, artists such as Ernst Haekel. There are also writers, photographers, film directors…However influenced I might be from other artists, most of my work comes from inside, from what I feel at a given time. I trap an emotion like a little wild animal and I dress him up in an image, I make him look beautiful (well, when I can!)

catalogue-1

VP: Could you describe to us a typical day for you and your work process? Do you have a studio?

DL: I have invaded my whole living room and turned it into a studio bubble. It has big windows because light is so important, two big sofas, a desk with computers and bits of old paper flying all around. It is a bit like a space ship from where I operate and create my journeys. I have however no real drawing space. I do this on the floor, on the corner of the coffee table or on one of my daughter’s playmobil boxes. Not ideal, but I guess if I had wanted a clear wide table to draw on, I would have got it by now. I must be happy this way.

VP: It seems the main challenge for many artists is to develop business acumen. Do you have an agent and what advice would you give young talents trying to make it in this business?

DL: I have two agents, one in France and one here in the UK. What I would advise to young illustrators is to approach clients directly at first, in order to get a feel of the industry. It is important to go out with your portfolio and do the leg work. The AOI is also a good place to start. They offer a lot of support for new comers, and interesting events too. When you are a bit more settled, getting and agent is a good option, They will be able to get higher fees in general, and protect you against bad contracting and other problems that may arise.

VP: Illustrators promote themselves in a variety of ways- their mailer, the envelope and its content, the postcards, the tags, etc…are often personalised. How do you promote yourself?

DL: Regarding the way I promote myself, it is rather old fashioned: I grab my book and I visit people for most of it. I rarely send stuff out (apart from Christmas cards), and I regularly update clients with new work via email with jpgs. I find that for most of my clients (in publishing predominantly), a portfolio visit is really valuable.

African Princess low

VP: I really like “Untitled with Pink Clouds”. Tell us how this piece came about and what inspired you to create a show about amazons?

DP: “Amazons” came up when I realised that most of my images narrated a quest, a fight, a search. It is directly related to being a freelancer in London and the battle it represents. Each day is an adventure, with its losses and its victories. It’s a relentless lifestyle and I love it. I wanted to create portraits of imaginary women warriors, to explore this intimate fight. “Untitled with Pink Clouds” shows a woman with a strong, belligerent look, while in contrast, her hair is made of soft, pinky clouds. This could be the duality of the artist. Being able to nurture the dreaminess necessary to any creation, while in parallel, you need to be tough enough to survive materially in the real world.

Thank you Delphine! It was a pleasure discussing with a fellow French expat illustrator!

Categories ,art, ,children book author, ,commercial art, ,design, ,french, ,illustration, ,illustrator, ,interview, ,london, ,women

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with McBess about Big Mother

bigmother mcbess

He’s just held an exhibition titled The Folding Knife at The Book Club and he’s produced a fabulous A3 sized monograph with Nobrow. Let’s find out more about the bendy monochrome force of illustration that is McBess.

Where did the name McBess come from?
?It came at school, approved there were too many Matthieus in my class and a mate contracted my last name and first name to make it more memorable… it went from matbess to mcbess quite quickly.??

McBess Big Mother
How did your recent exhibition at the The Book Club come about, order and how did you choose what to display??
Well I was invited by Liat Chen, pill the curator of The Book Club, but because the place is so big I decided to invite some fellow illustrators. Everything there was made for the show, so I didn’t pick and choose from previous work.??

mcbess big mother
How long have you been working with Nobrow and how did the relationship start??
I’ve been working with Nobrow for 3 years I think, they invited me to be in the first Nobrow magazine God & Monsters. We became friends and kept on working together.

McBess Big Mother
??What is the defining characteristic of Big Mother, your A3 monograph with Nobrow??
Well it’s a A3 book for a start which is very cool since my work is about tiny details, most of the work in there is real size. Also it’s like a sum up of everything I’ve done for the last 3 years, I guess it’s a chance to see an evolution or a recurrence in the themes.??

mcbess big mother
What is the process of creating your illustrations?
How do they begin, and what kind of working environment do you like? ?Well it depends but I tend to look at a lot of different things: movies, music, book, the Internet. Then I focus on a mood and try to find what it’s made out of, for instance if I was to do something about bikers, I’ll try to find all the iconography and play with them, the beards, the bikes, but also the pattern in the clothing, the types on the oil tanks and some not as obvious details that would set a dense mood. Then I’ll first flesh out a rough drawing either on paper or straight on photoshop, and I’ll refine it several time until I can start shading. I usually watch TV series when I work, music makes me too exited.

McBess Big Mother
??You are also a musician – what kind of music do you like and what kind do you make?
?I like a lot different types of music: rock, hip hop, electro, jazz… but I write rock tunes for the band. I try to keep it simple and catchy, I find it very hard to step back and listen to a track like you would do with a drawing, but that also why it’s a thrilling experience.??

mcbess big mother
How does music influence your art?
?Well I’ve always used music themes in my work, I’ve always been playing music and so it’s always been one of the most important things for me. I try to talk a bit about what I like in my illustration, so naturally music has a huge place in it. Now it’s funny because the illustrations are also influencing the music, and we try to make sounds that fit the mood of some illustrations. I think it will give more depth to everything.??

McBess Big Mother
You grew up in the South of France… what do people think of art like yours in your home town?
?I don’t know really, I started drawing when I was in London, there’s not that many young people from where I live and the rest tend to look at my illustrations as funny doodles, which might be why I sometimes make them quite violent. Anyway I don’t think the south of France is the best place to develop a style and be supported for it, but if you want to open a hot dog stand or a swingers night club then you might think otherwise.??

mcbess big mother
You mention that you can’t draw arms and knees, hence your bendy limbs – anything else you can’t draw or hate drawing??
Aha, well it started like that indeed, I was very bad at junctions, drawing good angles while keeping a harmony in the curves. Now I think I can draw knees and elbows but it doesn’t mean I like to. I also don’t like drawing buildings, sports, veggie food, cars, phones, penises, clean shaved men, planes…??

McBess Big Mother
Why do you only work in black and white, and can you foresee a time in the future when you might be tempted by colour??
I work in colour for my commercial work and I find pleasure in it but I love black and white. It started like that because I used to only do pencil drawings and when I started to rework them on the computer I would ink them black and then add the colour, but that colour stage always made the drawing less emblematic, less iconic, so I never though I’d use it for my work, and I’ll keep it consistent. If I ever want to do colour I’ll start something else with another name.??

McBess Big Mother
What’s next in the pipeline with Nobrow?
?Well we’ve been working on a possible toy, and for the rest I’m not too sure for now, I need to go back to the drawing board to make some more stuff and then they might be interested in putting it on paper.??

Any other exciting collaborations that you can tell us about??
I’m working on a bike with the Dudes Factory in Berlin which should come out with a range of biker themed tee shirts. For now that’s all I’ve got in the pipeline.?

The new McBess book Big Mother can be bought from Nobrow here.

Categories ,A3, ,Big Mother, ,Dudes Factory, ,french, ,God & Monsters, ,illustration, ,liat chen, ,Matthieus, ,McBess, ,monochrome, ,Monograph, ,Nobrow, ,South of France, ,The Book Club, ,The Folding Knife

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Amelia’s Magazine | A review of Companie XY: Le Grand C at CircusFest, Roundhouse, April 2010

Companie XY-Roundhouse
Companie XY-Roundhouse

I listed the Companie XY performance Le Grand C as part of CircusFest at the Roundhouse mainly because the PR asked nicely and there appeared to be some good deals on tickets. But frankly I didn’t know what to expect – there is hardly any information about this acrobatic circus company from France to be found on the internet. At least, this not in a language I understand.

As the lights dimmed on the central stage the crowd went quiet in anticipation. In the shadows a group of people climbed up each other and then descended. It stayed quiet. And dark. So quiet that I could hear myself sucking loudly on the lemon sherbet I’d picked up from a stand at the London Book Fair earlier. Characters climbed on top of an upright log for no particular reason.

Companie XY-Roundhouse

Let’s be honest here, prostate for the first ten minutes of this performance I was seriously contemplating how I could make a hasty exit without being heard. But then things radically improved; with the addition of music and lighting came life, information pills and verve. Companie XY may only do one thing – climbing on each other’s shoulders in various gravity defying combinations – but they do it very well. The acrobats swirled around and on top of each other, swinging up into handstands, standing on heads, soaring skywards from a see-saw to land gently in the waiting arms of their comrades. It was gasp-inducing stuff and the audience were not shy with their applause.

Companie XY-Roundhouse

On multiple occasions the anticipated stunt failed and the performers came tumbling down to the floor, yet it was almost as if this was to be expected – a morass of acrobats gathered, arms outstretched beneath the four tall human skyscrapers, suggesting that a fall was not an uncommon occurrence. Somehow these mistakes didn’t detract from the performance, instead making the hardest successful stunts seem all the more impressive. We were rooting for these acrobats. A failed move was just the price one pays for attempting something so insane, and it merely served to highlight the extraordinary feats they were performing.

Companie XY-Roundhouse

What didn’t work so well was the confluence of comic interludes and contemporary dance: the hugely influential German choreographer Pina Bausch has a lot to answer for. I went to see the Australian Circa troupe at the Barbican last month, and they too revel in circus with a touch of both comedy and modern dance. Why do circus acts try to be the best of all worlds when what they are naturally best at is combining bizarre contortions with the lightness of humour? Whenever I have seen them dance they appear weighty, their bodies dragging downwards rather than soaring to acrobatic heights.

Companie XY-Roundhouse

Towards the end the entirety of Companie XY burst into a French song – an extraordinary event and one which I can’t imagine from an English company. Harmonies died down to the lone voice of the one man left on stage, who continued singing as he formed the base of the last human tower, his voice wobbling as each extra person clambered upon him. The performers were clearly tired by now and the tension in the Roundhouse was palpable. Would everything come crashing down just as we reached the finale? No, our singer remained steady, gasping his final note as the tower was completed.

Companie XY-Roundhouse

If you can get past the first ten minutes then this performance is the most adrenalin filled way you can spend an hour sitting down. It may veer wildy between the dull and the sublime but it is a must see for those intrigued by the astonishing things that *some* human bodies can do. And a note to Companie XY: less silence and pretentious dance, more music and light comedy.

For more information on tickets and times please see the original listing for this performance here.
You can read a review in The Times here, and in the Guardian here.

Categories ,Acrobatics, ,barbican, ,Circa, ,Circus, ,CircusFest, ,Companie XY, ,dance, ,french, ,Pina Bausch, ,Roundhouse

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