Amelia’s Magazine | Simon Ekrelius: New S/S 2012 Season Interview

Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Natalia Nazimek
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Natalia Nazimek.

Simon Ekrelius has been slowly building a reputation for his futuristic yet feminine style. Here’s a peek into his new S/S 2012 collection Bar-Red, page and a chance to find out more about his unique vision.

Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Milly Jackson
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Milly Jackson.

What brought you from Sweden to set up your studio in London? 
I first discovered London in 1993 and since then I have been back and forth. My designs work better in London than in Sweden, healing where people are very careful with their wardrobe. In 2002 my partner Tom and I decided to move here and settle down.

Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
All photography by Marc Lavoie.

Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Sampo Lehtinen
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Sampo Lehtinen.

You have a wonderful way of making futurism seem eminently female and wearable – what inspires you and how do you keep this look fresh each season?  
I’m inspired by many things other than fashion; architecture, painting, sculpture and artistic movements in general. I don’t look at the work of other fashion designers because I can’t help but be affected, which is not good for my creative process. I also tend to avoid fashion magazines, which helps to keep my head clear and enable me to work hard on my feelings for the next season. I decide what I really like and what I feel will work, bearing in mind that it’s easy to go way too crazy and futuristic. It’s important to find the right balance – that’s what fashion is all about.

Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Natalia Nazimek
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Natalia Nazimek.

What in particular is the new season’s collection Bar-Red based on and what does the name refer to?
I think that back in 1919 people were maybe experiencing similar things to what we are going through now, so Bar-Red is based on the Bauhaus movement, mainly with regards the geometric forms used in architectural design. I like the way that the Bauhaus integrated different forms in order to construct a new kind of style and I translated this into our time so that the collection is not completely retrospective. Bar-Red is so named because it can also mean Barred. The shape of a Bar is rectangular and the colour Red is the main colour in the collection, plus the words Bar and Red work together perfectly. I used bar-shaped objects in my prints such as cigarettes and there are big chunky arrows pointing at naughty areas or sometimes just away.

Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Sampo Lehtinen
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Sampo Lehtinen.

You showed in Ottawa this season which is quite exciting – how did this come about?
I was asked to take part by the organisers of Ottawa Fashion Week and at first I did not even believe they had a fashion week. Plus it was during Paris Fashion Week, which was very awkward. But they wanted me to come so badly that they offered me a very good package, so then I just couldn’t say no, especially since the economy in Europe is so tough now. I met members of the Swedish embassy when I was over there and that was interesting because they want to import more independent Swedish design to Canada.

Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius by Gareth A Hopkins
Simon Ekrelius by Gareth A Hopkins.

Will you be showing again in London anytime soon? We loved your last catwalk show with On/Off here. Any London based plans that we can share with readers?
Yes, absolutely, I’m planning to do an exhibition again next season at London Fashion Week. Perhaps I will share space with another designer to see how that goes, and after that I’m sure that I will be back on the catwalk again. But it all depends on the sales I’m afraid…

Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer.

What is your preferred music to listen to when you are working and have you discovered any new musicians or bands recently that we should know about?
I’m just putting together a playlist on Spotify, and it features Grace Jones, Best Coast, Fever Ray, The xx and The Knife. When I am working I sometimes listen to 6 Music, but sadly I don’t have much time to really discover new bands.

Simon Ekrelius Bar-Red SS 2012 - illus
Illustration by Simon Ekrelius.

Your fashion illustrations are beautiful – how do you ensure this side of your work practice stays alive?
I do my illustrations as I go along. I create them in my head and then if I have a pen, some colours and a bit of paper they will come out automatically like a machine. So I will always illustrate as long as I am creatively productive. They are not always pretty – sometimes they are just a few lines that will help me to remember what has come into my head.

Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Milly Jackson
Simon Ekrelius S/S 2012 by Milly Jackson.

What are your future plans for the Simon Ekrelius brand? 
Aww, this is a difficult one! I think for the moment I just want to get a better relation with buyers abroad and perhaps one boutique here in London to stock Simon Ekrelius exclusively. But then of course it would be great to eventually do my own shows in Paris or London, with high level production so that I can explain my stories properly in all areas. After that I would like to have my own place (to sell from). But first I need to focus on finding buyers.
 

Categories ,6 Music, ,architectural, ,Bar-Red, ,bauhaus, ,Best Coast, ,Buyers, ,Fever Ray, ,Futuristic, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Grace Jones, ,illustration, ,Lesley T Spencer, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marc Lavoie, ,Milly Jackson, ,Natalia Nazimek, ,onoff, ,Ottawa Fashion Week, ,paris, ,S/S 2012, ,Sampo Lehtinen, ,Simon Ekrelius, ,Spotify, ,Swedish, ,The Knife, ,The XX

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pre-London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Interview: Cooperative Designs

Photograph by Matt Bramford

After being spellbound by Cooperative Designs’ last two presentations (see here and here) at London Fashion Week.

Amelia’s Magazine are delighted to have had the opportunity of interviewing Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann, ed the designers behind the fantastically experimental knitwear. With London Fashion Week just around the corner, page we discussed their previous presentations and what it was that first attracted Cooperative Designs’ to wool…

In recent years Knitwear has seen a massive resurgence on the catwalks, adiposity what first attracted you to the material?

We both learnt to knit from our grandmothers.

Knitwear has such a unique position in the fashion world, its both textiles and fashion. As you design the fabric you affect the structure and form of the garment. The whole process gives you such control and ensures that every piece is unique.

As the designer you choose the basic materials, the way the yarn is spun, then the way the fabric is knitted and then the way the garment is structured and put together. Its a long, time consuming and expensive process, but its very rewarding.

illustration by Stuart Whitton

What are the influences behind the graphic prints, that often appear on the designs?

We met on the Fashion MA at Central St Martins. Although our MA collections were very different, they both had strong graphic elements. It made sense to develop this style together.

What was the experience of studying Knitwear at St Martins?

We both studied Knitwear on the Fashion MA. It was a great experience, it made us tough, confident and it gave us such great experience of working to deadlines, taking fierce criticism, and continually pushing ourselves to improve. It was a stressful but exhilarating process.

What is the decision making process behind the colours of your collections?

We use our primary research as the means to develop the colour palette. Our references are normally from art sources: Rodchenko, the Bauhaus, De Stijl, Memphis, to name a few.

Once we have edited our research we focus on the graphics and colours we find most exciting. We use computer programmes and hand drawings to develop the graphics, and then we have to redesign them specifically to be knitted. There are so many technical limitations in knit, finding ways to work around them are what makes the discipline so exciting and challenging.

Photograph by Amy Gwatkin

What is the relationship between the jewellery designer Corrie Williamson, and Cooperative Designs?

Annalisa: I met Corrie at Brighton University, where we both studied on the BA. We became friends and ran a stall at Camden Market together! When Dorothee and I started the business, we both decided that cooperating with other designers was really important to us. We both loved Corries work, so it made sense to incorporate it into the collection.

We all meet up at the start of the season. We give Corrie a ridiculously conceptual brief, which she then attempts to make some sense from. She then goes away and develops initial samples of materials and shapes. We then meet again with our stylist Elizabeth Cardwell, and the whole process continues.

Photograph by Amy Gwatkin

What techniques do you use to make the garments? Is the outcome influenced by the equipment you have access too?

Absolutely. We specialise in combining really traditional techniques such as intarsias, jacquards, handknits and fairisles with new technologies. Working with advanced yarns, machines and some incredible factories means our garments can really push the limits, whilst still remaining very recognisable as knitwear.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Your clothes have been described as ‘architectural’, how does the design process begin usually for Cooperative Designs?

Our clothes have the architectural aspect because of their predominantly 2D forms. As Dorothee has more of a womenswear background then me, she has developed a process she calls Primary pattern cutting. Pieces are designed as flat graphic angular shapes then left to drape and distort on the body. This process particularly suits knitwear, as it has such great drape and stretch properties.

What is your relationship to the Bauhaus?

We are big fans! We have been speaking to them about a potential collaboration, that would be really exciting for us.

Photograph by Matt Bramford

I loved last year’s down the road from Somerset House with the ‘Zine, the video and the live show in the basement. Does staging a presentation allow more freedom, than if you presented a catwalk show?

Definitely. With a presentation we have the opportunity to design the entire event, we try to encapsulate the feel of the collection as an real experience for our guests. This season we are showing at the Groucho Club, and we have some really exciting plans!

How did the ‘Zine develop?

The Zine developed because we asked our friends and colleagues to take portraits of our collection in their own individual ways. A ‘Zine seemed like a great way to give everyone a little reminder of these portraits to take home. We worked with Amy Gwatkin our photographer to make a really handmade, Lo Fi photocopied zine. We really enjoyed the collaborative process and the end result, and it would be something we would love to develope for the future.


Photograph by Matt Bramford

What are Cooperative Designs currently working on?

We are working on the new collection and getting all the plans for the presentation into place. We have just finished designing a collection for Autumn Winter for Italian super brand Stefanel, the collection should be dropping into stores really soon. We can’t wait to see the collection on the high street all over Europe! We have also just developed a capsule mens Tshirt collection, which will be previewed at LFW, details will soon be revealed!

We have also recently launched an online shop! We are offering archive pieces, show pieces, and special one offs from our collaborators. We are hoping to expand this shop and offer more collaborators and more products as we develop.

The photographs by Matt Bramford are from Cooperative Designs SS10 collection show at London Fashion Week 2010.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Amy Gwatkin, ,bauhaus, ,british fashion council, ,Cooperative Designs, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,graphic, ,Groucho Club, ,grthink, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Memphis, ,Off Schedule, ,On Schedule, ,Rodchenko, ,Somerset House, ,Stuart Whitton, ,zine

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jayne Pierson

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger, information pills I’m afraid, diagnosis is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger, information pills a traditional fashion brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now, and has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. I think this is what’s known as an autumnal colour range. Blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathered around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, viagra I’m afraid, sales is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger, a traditional fashion brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now, and has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. I think this is what’s known as an autumnal colour range. Blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathered around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, cure I’m afraid, about it is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger, a traditional fashion brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now, and has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. I think this is what’s known as an autumnal colour range. Blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathered around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, shop I’m afraid, medications is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. But who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger is a traditional brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now and after a prolonged period in the doldrums he has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. The collection was a delicious mix of autumnal colours: blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathering around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags swung or handheld clutches were the accessory of choice and the shoes were simply divine, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality that won’t go out of fashion in a hurry.
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

For Jayne Pierson I raced into town alone – yet another early morning show for which we only had one ticket, cheap enticingly printed on pearly grey paper. This despite a very nice mention of our support in the accompanying press release – thankyou whoever thought to mention us, approved it’s appreciated! We did in fact catch up with Jayne just prior to her show, and you can read the interview here. The invite and goodie bag were not, however, an indicator of a colourful show but rather the favoured shade of make-up. Kingdom of Shadows began on a black note and carried on in the same vein, broken up only by a curious grey and beige striped taffeta that is something of a Pierson signature but would not have looked out of place on curtains or a sofa in a certain type of house.

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson Kingdom of Shadows by Kerri-Ann Hulme
Jayne Pierson’s Kingdom of Shadows by Kerri-Ann Hulme.

Jayne Pierson formerly worked in the music business and this show felt deeply imbued with the remnants of an 80s rock sensibility. A gothic Victorian kind of rock, with swaggering shoulders and bunched bustle skirts. The models sported messy up dos, pallid faces with lilac lips and pin sharp shapely heels. Black tailored jackets featured inset patent fabric shoulders and cuffs, leather minidresses cowl-necked atop rubberised leggings. The sudden introduction of striped silk was balanced with patent detailing on collar, waist and cuffs – a jaunty pillbox hat set askance.

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson by Laura Mullins
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 by Laura Mullins.

Devore lacy velvet also made an appearance, not to mention a terribly racy see through crop top and leggings. I particularly liked the large but lightly draped silver jewellery by Fiona Paxton, who fuses Indian artisanship with a British punk sensibility and Bauhaus design. A corseted jumpsuit that hit the catwalk in a tipsy fashion was less desirable: the poor dresser must have got a shafting but I blame the model’s lack of boobs. What’s the point of a shaped bodice if there’s nothing to put in it?

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jayne took her bow on the catwalk accompanied by a celebrity model – which no one knew. I had to check in with the PR to find out who she was but I can’t for the life of me remember – apparently she was a Welsh singer.

Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia GregoryJayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jayne Pierson A/W 2011 Kingdom of Shadows. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

There were some beautiful ideas in Kingdom of Shadows; especially the strong shoulders and nipped in waists that recalled my fondest decade, the 80s. And I adored the carefully constructed bustle dress that bore the influence of Jayne’s time with Vivienne Westwood. But yet again there was all that pesky black, which will never ever be my favourite fashion colour. Here’s hoping that next season might see the reintroduction of colour again. Go on Jayne, please!

Categories ,80s, ,bauhaus, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Fiona Paxton, ,gothic, ,Indian, ,Jayne Pierson, ,Kerri-Ann Hulme, ,Kingdom of Shadows, ,Laura Mullins, ,onoff, ,punk, ,Victorian, ,Vivienne Westwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 Cooperative designs S/S2010 Happy Birthday Bauhaus


charlielemindu

After witnessing a whole lot of jolly sensible fashion trends being bandied about – think short, visit this generic sleek, stomach unhealthy sophisticated and feminine – we were thrilled to see a total vision of insanity at the Blow Presents… show where the models were barely human, NEVER MIND feminine. Ladies and gents, meet the new woman of 2010: the Fembot.

blowpresentsfembot

Wigmaker Charlie le Mindu’s collection made Danielle Scutt’s hairstyling look positively placid: models were bombing down the catwalking with “haute coiffure” teetering atop their tiny heads, like a warped modern paraphrase of 18th century wigs.

BlowpresentsCharliedelemindu

Squeezed into flesh-coloured PVC bodysuits, these were pneumatic bodies that resembled genetically mutated Barbies, with the hairpieces swelling into jackets (bearing a strong resemblance to Margiela’s two seasons ago) or even shoulder pads, evidently a trend that translates into the most avant-garde of arenas.

charlie

Next up was Gemma Slack’s collection with pieces constructed from leather and suede, it was a bold collection that turned the models into superheroes and warriors, with the conical bras making another resurgence as seen with Louise Goldin’s latest offering.

gemmaslack

The inclusion metal studs and slashed leather also made it profoundly sexual – with the oppressive metal-plated umbrella and circular skirts mechanising the body, a territory previously explored, of course, by Hussein Chalayan. Unlike Chalayan this mechanisation was also sexualised, with the constant sado-masochistic details (even the traditional Burmese neck rings looked more like dog collars) in line with uncomfortable images of fetishised modernity that J.G Ballard expressed in Crash.

gemmaslackblowpresets

Margiela reared his head again with Lina Osterman, in a show styled by Robbie Spencer, who by masking her models also evinced a preoccupation and an evocation of Victoriana repression by playing with the effects of concealing the face and the body. A difference so far for a series of shows that has been all about long, bare legs.

fw_sat19_8

A completely androgynous collection, there were undertaker-style long tailored jackets paired with trousers and shorts, with Osterman manifesting the Victorian secret obsession with sex, like Slack, with bondage-like details and choices in fabric. Lurking underneath all the bravado, however, was a surprisingly soft and wearable collection, with some fabulous knits and grandpa shirts both for the boys and the girls.

mummyblowpr

Finally upping the drama stakes was Iris van Herpen, with a slow and intense collection of sculpted leather and rubber – heavy and cumbersome pieces that were inspired by radiation waves around the body, results of collaboration with artist Bart Hess.

fw_sat19_3

Proving a fantastic metaphor as a means of highlighting parts of the human body, this was true craftsmanship, with sequins and reflective panels catching the catwalk lights – as the models lined up together for the final few moments they seemed like soldiers with armour constructed from artwork.

IMG_0678

A rather fascinating foursome on show, then, and at least Lady GaGa will have some new things to wear with those big pants of hers – well until next season anyway.
Cooperative Designs presented their latest designs aboard a Bauhaus Chessboard and on entering the presentation hall I was greeted with delicious looking (and tasting) Bauhaus birthday cake. The collection titled Happy Birthday Bauhaus was a homage to a constant source of inspiration (Bauhaus and Russian Constructivism) and the only female to become a master at the school: Gunta Stolz and her 5 Chord Weave.

bauhauscakescoopdesignslwf09.jpg

The display was a feast for the eyes, viagra 60mg as the garments and dressmaker dummies found themselves positioned across the black and white squares encouraging the viewer to walk freely around the set and in-between the brilliant knitwear.

coopdesignslfw09blue.jpg

The board was also interjected with giant cardboard pieces and props or pawns from Amy Gwatkin‘s elegant film projected onto the space behind the game. Filmed through prisms, visit the film portrays the delicate fluid movements, sick the bold lines and clever tailoring of Co-operative’s designs as Rahma Mohamed dreamily paraded across the presentation hall (filmed in the same room, the moving lookbook acted as an extension to the space).

amygwatkincoopdesignslfw09.jpg

The static presentation enables the viewer the opportunity to be up close and personal with the clothes, to view the extensive variety of fabric used in construction. I enjoyed being able to carefully consider the patterns adorning large hanging pieces and the distinctive body conscience garments. Whilst the film portrayed how the clothes would move when adorning the human body complimented by the bold jewellery.

coopdesignslfw092.jpg

Several people became statuesque through their bodies occupying a variety of past season’s designs, displaying the constant craftsmanship of the design duo: Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann. the collection is instantly desirable from the exquisite knitwear combining “wild silks, paper cotton and linen yards” to the jewerelly designed by Corrie Williamson and the shoes made in collaboration with Daniel Harrison.

corriewilliamsoncoopdesignslfw.jpg

The entire ethos of the show was Bauhaus and it’s ideas on the importance of experiment through collaboration; from the film to the set designed by alex Cunningham to the shoe and jewellery collection.

coopdesignslfw09.jpg

I could have stayed in the room all day, visually digesting the block colours peeking amongst the patterns. Whilst examining the construction of sleeves that hung from the manikin at right angles as if an invisible elbow occupied the negative space.

Watch the film here:

All Photographs by Matt Bramford

Categories ,2009, ,bauhaus, ,Cooperative Designs, ,craft, ,Fashion Scout, ,London Fashion Week, ,Russian Constructivism, ,weave

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Amelia’s Magazine | Future Fashion Now at the V&A

PB061629Image features work by Gudrun Kloespch

Yesterday I decided to beat the Monday-morning-blues by heading down to leafy SW7 to view the Future Fashion Now exhibition currently showing in fashion room 40 at the V&A museum. This annual exhibition features highlights from the Royal College of Art fashion graduate’s final collections which this year includes everything from military-esque furs to leather and crystal ensembles.

With 55 unique outfits and accessories on display from 27 designers, page cialis 40mg the Fashion Future Now exhibition is divided into four main sections (Concept, rx Form, Technique and Detail) with each exploring the design stages the students go through to create their final collections looking back from their initial ideas and inspiration to the finished garments and products.

Katie EaryConcept looks at the central ideas and inspiration behind the graduates’ work. A favourite among this category was the work of Katie Eary who based her final menswear collection on both military uniform and Russian literature. Katie’s flamboyant designs reference the decorative headwear commonly associated with the British army’s Grenadier Guard’s uniform, juxtaposed with dazzling Swarovski crystals in orange and brown arranged to resemble leopard print with glittering effect. What worked really well with Katie’s display was the use of her research photographs, mood boards and sketchbooks in the background which both add to the impact of her designs and make it very easy for visitors to see how well she executed her clear direction.

PamelaForm explores how designers transform their ideas into 3-D garments by experimenting with materials and the way in which they cut them. A stand out favourite in this field was Pamela Leung who created a beautiful roll neck cable-knit jumper using Rowan Big Wool. If the knitting needles in the background weren’t enough of a clue, Pamela uniquely constructs her garments by twisting four strands of wool together, building texture and volume as she knits with her custom-made metre-long knitting needles. For extra oomph Pamela has also experimented with silver foil incorporating this into her dynamic collection of chunky knits.

JacobenTechnique reveals the ways in which the graduates create their work using both traditional and the most modern methods such as laser cutting, bonding, digital printing and sophisticated rapid prototyping. A stand out designer from this section was Iacopo Calamandrei who digitally manipulated his images of astrological charts, and then applied his resulting repeat pattern onto silk using a digital printer. Iacopo’s highly innovative cocoon-like silhouette featured heavily through his display with his technique being created using a simple dressmaker’s stand and numerous pleating and draping techniques.

LeaDetail illustrates how customised fastenings, decorative stitching, jeweled embellishment or a delicate print can make a piece unique. The bold graphics and unusual colour combinations used by Léa Carre?o really make her stand out from her classmates in this field. Inspired by the avant-garde design of houses such as Bauhaus in the 1920s and 30s Léa’s designs are created from organic wool and viscose.
In sum a great exhibition showcasing the work of the newest crop of British designers on the block. Future Fashion Now is 100% free and is showing until 31 January 2010.

Categories ,bauhaus, ,Future Fashion Now, ,Grenadier Guard’s, ,Iacopo Calamandrei, ,Katie Eary, ,Léa Carreňo, ,Pamela Leung, ,Rowan Big Wool, ,Royal College of Art, ,Swarovski, ,va

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Amelia’s Magazine | Hiroko Nakajima: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

Japanese born London based knitwear designer Hiroko Nakajima is another Central Saint Martins graduate with an intriguing approach to fashion design. Her philosophy is that ‘The human body takes a backseat to the graphic, but upon wear, reappears as one with the artwork.’ Her new collection of bodycon cashmere dresses worn with bright tights and classic stilettos was a wonderfully bold celebration of graphics as worn on the body, inspired by the Bauhaus.

Hiroko Nakajima by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimiriou

Hiroko Nakajima by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimiriou.

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-red dress

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-handbag

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-green top

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-pink bag

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-red bag

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-red hat

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-yellow skirt

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-back view

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

I love the way that Hiroko Nakajima employs intarsia to create big asymmetric shapes and eye catching slashes of colour. Great curves of knit that draped artfully around the shoulders like Delauney shawls were particularly successful, as were the mini geometric clutch accessories and pointy knitted hats, which could have looked ridiculous but somehow worked beautifully. This is what all knitwear should be like: totally wearable, flattering and so much fun. I had no shortage of illustrators volunteering to draw this collection, and I can see the appeal!

Hiroko Nakajima by Kimberley Ellen Hall

Hiroko Nakajima by Kimberly Ellen Hall.

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-portrait

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,bauhaus, ,bodycon, ,Cashmere, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hiroko Nakajima, ,Intarsia, ,Kimberly Ellen Hall, ,knitwear, ,Maria Papadimiriou, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Sonia Delauney

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bauhaus: Art as Life at the Barbican Art Gallery


T. Lux Feininger’s Sport at the Bauhaus by Scott Nellis

A retrospective of a German modernist design movement seems like a slightly curveball choice whilst London is busy boasting about everything British. Even Tate, notorious for shunning British artists at its Modern site, celebrates Damien Hirst this summer. In Hirst fashion it’s rumoured that he kicked up a fuss at the thought of exhibiting at Tate Britain, and even paid for the floors of Tate Modern to be reinforced to accommodate his dead animals in tanks, leaving Tate Britain tenuously linking Picasso to British artists (and, hilariously, dealers) in its Picasso in Britain major exhibition. Even so, the theme of London’s galleries seems to be how great Great Britain is. Except, it seems, for the Barbican.


Bauhaus by Sam Parr

Nevertheless, I was excited to see what this new retrospective would offer. A visit to the Bauhaus Archiv in Berlin is a must for any design perv. I’d clocked that this Barbican showcase was in association with said archives so my feelings were mixed – would it be pieces I’d already seen, rehung in a different fashion?


The Barbican from above, by Morgane Parma

Unusually (I think) this exhibition begins on the upper floor of the gallery, which had punters looking a bit bemused at the bottom of the stairs, most of them deciding to begin on the ground floor and bottle-necking one of the lower exhibition rooms. I stifled giggles as I crept upstairs where it was relatively quiet. I couldn’t help thinking that Gropius, Mies Van Der Rohe, Moholy-Nagy and pals would be pretty happy that their work and influence were being celebrated in the Brutalist concrete alcoves of the Barbican Art Gallery. The first room charts the opening of Bauhaus at Weimar and Walter Gropius‘ educational approach, particularly the Programme of the State Bauhaus in Weimar, a hefty text which has since become known as the Bauhaus manifesto. There are a few interesting pieces in these early rooms – particularly Lyonel Feininger‘s woodcut for the manifesto cover, on loan from MoMA.


Walter Gropius by Scott Nellis

The rest of the upstairs takes us on a tour of the early years of Bauhaus the ‘return to crafts’, showcasing the school’s impressive roster of teachers including Klee and Kandinsky; ‘salute to the square’, discussing the turning point in 1923 where Bauhaus progressed from emphasis on craft to its more rational aesthetic with which we associate the school today. One room, ‘instruments of communication’ got me particularly hot under the collar, showcasing some of Bauhaus‘ incredible typographic and editorial design work and many examples of Bauhausbücher produced between 1925 and 1930. The eclectic style of early Bauhaus print had by this point been replaced with a slick, efficient design aesthetic – geometric shapes, simplified information and even printers’ marks. In my humble/honest opinion, it’s some of the sexiest graphic design ever created.


All photography by Jane Hobson courtesy of the Barbican Art Gallery

It’s downstairs where the exhibition really comes alive, though, through tangible design, photography and costume, charting the move to Dessau, Bauhaus’ final home. Vibrant photographs document life at the school – sport, recreation, teaching, socialising. Dramatic photographs of the building itself show what a marvel it must have been, from Gropius‘ futuristic design to Marcel Breuer‘s tubular-steel furniture. The exhibition opens up here and it feels slightly overwhelming at first, particularly as you’ve been guided so carefully around the upstairs rooms.


Oskar Schlemmer’s Triadisches Ballett by Niki Groom

It was a challenge not to go wild as I surveyed the space, with costumes from Oskar Schlemmer‘s Triadisches Ballett that I hadn’t seen in Berlin, Josef Albers‘ nest of tables and club chair, Marcel Breuer‘s Wassily chair… it was a feast for any design fancier. Pig in proverbial shit, you might say.


Bauhaus (with Marcel Bruer chair) by Gilly Rochester

I could talk more about the pieces but any of the Bauhaus publications do it much better, so I’d recommend, if you can, to just go and bloody see it for yourself. You won’t be disappointed.


Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe by Sandra Contreras

In 1933, after only 14 years, the Bauhaus dissolved under Mies Van Der Rohe‘s leadership. The Nazis grew ever anxious about what the school represented. Hannes Meyer was dismissed due to Communist leanings; Kandinsky‘s work had to be hidden because of his Russian background and funding was withdrawn. A poignant letter hangs as the last exhibit, written by Mies Van Der Rohe to the final students of Bauhaus, detailing its closure. It’s a poignant end to an exhibition that celebrates the enduring legacy and worldwide impact of the school.


All photography by Jane Hobson courtesy of the Barbican Art Gallery

Categories ,1920s, ,1930s, ,Archiv, ,Archives, ,Art Deco, ,art gallery, ,bauhaus, ,berlin, ,Damien Hirst, ,design, ,Dessau, ,editorial, ,Germany, ,Kandinsky, ,Klee, ,László Moholy-Nagy, ,london, ,Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe, ,Lyonel Feininger, ,Marcel Breuer, ,Modernism, ,MOMA, ,Nazis, ,picasso, ,publishing, ,Tate, ,typography, ,Walter Gropius, ,Weimar

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Augusta Akerman

GUS AKERMAN aka AUGUSTA AKERMAN is an incredibly talented polymath, cost since training as a photographer, shop Akerman has turned her hand and eye to a variety of creative endeavors: Art Direction, Set Design, Still and Fine Art Photography, Illustration and costume design. Last week I had the pleasure of interviewing Augusta with regards to this skilled multi-tasking whilst picking her brains for any tips she has for budding creatives…

The work is rooted in a sense of humanity, questioning human behaviour and ideas of natural selection, photography and illustration lend themselves to this action of watching and recording the minutie of everyday life (See Amelia’s Magazine’s Review on the new Tate Show exploring the Voyeristic nature of the Camera). With this in mind lets delve into the interview…

What came first photography or illustration?

I started taking photography seriously during my A levels, although I had been taking photographs for a long time, it was my Design Technology teacher who encouraged me to use them as my final piece. As for drawing, it is quite a new thing for me, I was very unconfident with my drawing skills at school and quit Art as a subject due to an ongoing struggle against Art teachers who despaired at my dysfunctional representations of still lives and self-portraits. Whilst at Glasgow School of Art I started to keep small drawing books that I would show to no one, and then suddenly I realized I was drawing every day and forcing people to look at them!

How did the illustration drawing book project develop?

The book project developed over a long period of time in which I drew every day. It started as a way to try and improve my drawing “practice makes perfect etc, etc” and ended up being a culmination of everything I did that month. The shows I went to see, the books I read, the conversations I overheard until I then put the drawings, scribblings and photographs into some kind of order. The book as a format is such an amazing instrument for an artist to explain themselves, and without sounding too dictatorial, can direct the viewer through handpicked images in sequence with a kind of reveal. I love making the books, as everything however small or silly suddenly becomes something in its own right when put alone on a page or sat opposite another image.

What inspires you on a day to day basis?

It changes all the time. Mostly its social histories, how people lived and how they survived, what they did/ do with their time. I’m inspired by a lot of literature from science fiction to The Moomins especially ‘Moominvalley in November’ which I re-read recently and found it to contain such perfect descriptions of the funny character traits of humans. The Imperial War Museum is one of my favorite places and one I find especially inspiring as well as the British Museum with its collection of the ‘Lewis Chessmen’. Working on jobs where you meet so many different people every couple of weeks, becoming very close very quickly due to waking up at 5 in the morning looking awful! And spending the whole day together whilst having to be completely silent during takes is quite inspiring.

You’ve been involved in a range of projects from photography to short films as well as illustration. Could you perhaps talk a little about how you manage all your different projects?

Working freelance I think is the most wonderful thing, although tough and discouraging at times I think that it allows me to really enjoy all the projects I happen to be involved in, be them personal or as part of a bigger production. Creating a website for me was also a fantastic way to keep working privately and still have the chance to allow others to see the work I was making as an artist who is also looking for a job! Balancing working as part of the Art Department for productions and Photography I find is very natural. I enjoy creating sets and props, thinking about characters and colour and then find that Photography allows me to see the reality as an image. I feel that when I take stills on a film I have worked on as an art director or part of the art department I am more sensitive to the character within the set environment we have created, celebrating the set and including it within the photograph with I think is sometimes unfortunately overlooked when filming begins. Where illustration and drawing is concerned I draw with the hope of perhaps making a new book or exhibiting, this is generally done in the studio in my spare time.

How did these projects develop? And in a difficult market do you have any tips for graduates/art students currently thinking about job prospects outside of the relative safety of university?

After leaving art school I spent months on the internet looking for Photography jobs or jobs that would allow me to still be involved in making things and thinking about artists and talking about creative making to people. Which is I think what many recent graduates miss when coming out of university and not having anyone to talk to about arty farty things. After a while I started e-mailing Photographers, Art Directors, Production designers all people whose work I had seen and really enjoyed. Some got back to me some didn’t, but through the safety of email I managed to convince some people that I was hard working and a willing assistant. For someone coming out of University I would say once again that making and maintaining a website is such a fantastic tool to show people that you do work, you do make things and that you are interested.

What has your favourite project been so far?

Most recently I made a short film with my brother, a collaboration between several art schools in different countries. It was his project but I said I would like to help out, we made huge Bauhaus inspired costumes out of paper and fabric and filmed still tableaux’s of them destroying their property, it sounds crazy but it was so much fun! I also recently worked on a short film called ‘AilemA’, about a young girl coming to terms with Dyslexia who mixes words and drawings together on paper and all over her bedroom wall. I made a lot of the artwork for the film and used many of my drawings to cover a wall in the girl’s bedroom. It was not only the fact that I got to do a lot of my particular style of drawing for the film but I also had rather sentimental feelings for the story due to being a dyslexic myself.

What was your experience working on short film Rain? How did this opportunity develop?

Working on ‘Rain’ was a fantastic and yet surreal experience for me, the Production designer and I went to stay in the location for nearly two weeks, we dressed the sets all day and then withdrew to the attic to sleep at night. It definitely was one of the bigger short films I have worked on highlighted by the fact we had to have a rain machine on constantly throughout the whole shoot. I was fortunate to get this opportunity through the fantastic production designer; Miren Maranon, who I often work with. She is fantastic to work with and extremely talented I owe a lot to her.

What was your role on set?

Usually on set I work as a standby art director, art department assistant or stills photographer. I do enjoy working on set but my favourite part is definitely the pre production. Coming up with ideas and colour palates, finding and making props, its always quite sad breaking down the set at the end of the shoot.

You have shown in an extensive range of galleries – what is the nature of your work in these exhibitions?

In most of these exhibitions the work I have shown has been Photographic with perhaps some of the handmade books. It is only recently that I have shown a video piece and have never had a show based solely around the drawings. The subject matter of the exhibitions is dependant on what I am interested in at the time. For ages I was obsessed with this book ‘England in Particular’ and would go to National Trust properties photographing Dovecotes and village Yew trees. Although coming from a fine art background my photography has more of a documentary style to it. Whereas my illustrations are not realistic at all, but completely the opposite, they try to get the right size, shape and proportion but fail and maybe because they fail so spectacularly I like them.

Who are your favourite designers/photographers/illustrators?

I have many favorite artists, designers, and photographers. The ones I can think of at the moment are… the photographer Rinko Kawauchi, sculptor Richard Long, writer and illustrator Tove Jansson, writer and illustrator Rudyard Kipling, photographer Martin Parr, writer Douglas Adams, photographer Tierney Gearon, photographer Richard Billingham, photographer Homer Sykes, illustrator Pauline Baynes, artist David Shrigley and artist Louise Bourgeois. The list could go on and on….

Do you look at any blogs or use twitter to communicate as part of your creative practice?

No I do not really use twitter, but I do look at quite a lot of blogs to do with fashion, drawing, photography, magazines, news and opinion etc. I really respect people who create blogs and websites in their own spare time about the subjects they are enthusiastic about. It’s interesting to see how this generation has become so confident in themselves as a singular inventor or creator. Drawings and artwork don’t have to hide away in the corner of a studio or under a bed, someone somewhere will accidentally come across them and think “hey! That’s great!”

What role do you see photographers and illustrators playing in society?

A role with as much importance as anything else, illustration is such a natural way of communicating ideas to people and provides a kind of escapism for both the drawer and the viewer. Photography has provided us the perfect mirror and document of the time we live in and the ability to really see the past. Both mediums contribute to society by allowing us to take a step back and enjoy human invention and imagination.

What’s next for Augusta?

Not long ago I moved into a new studio in Elephant and Castle with my friend Carolyn here we come up with lots of ideas for projects and spend the evening drawing and talking, mostly talking! We are hoping to have a small exhibition in the studio later this year. During the summer I am starting work on my first feature film, which is so exciting, fingers crossed it will all go well!

Could you tell me about your short film plan for the summer?

Im not sure how much I can say! Its a kind of dark british comedy being shot in and around London about a burglar. The production company and crew is made up of lots of people I worked with before so I am very excited to see them all again. We have been discussing the films atmosphere and colour palate for some time now and I cant wait to get started in the next couple of weeks choosing materials and seeing locations.

Categories ,AilemA, ,Augusta Akerman, ,bauhaus, ,British Museum, ,Douglas Adams, ,Glasglow School of Art, ,illustrator, ,Moomin, ,Neve Campbell, ,photographer, ,Rain, ,Richard Billingham, ,Rudyard Kipling, ,Set Design, ,The Imperial War Museum, ,Tove Jansson

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Edward Vince

Monday saw the fourth day dawn on London Fashion Week and delightfully my first day of intriguing ethical fashion presentations. First up on No. 1 Greek Street was the delightful Lu Flux, there visit web followed in the afternoon by – congratulations! – the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon. –

In the run up to London Fashion Week, more about Katie Antoniou interviewed Ada Zanditon about the trials, malady tribulations and positive rewards of producing innovative ethical fashion. Often the problem lies in the assumption that ethical fashion is boring and unfashionable – that most heinous of sins! – a situation being speedily rectified with the continuing presence of Estethica’s exhibition and support of young designers exploring the possibility of sustainable fashion at London Fashion Week Exhibition.

Starting at 2pm, Ada Zanditon’s presentation – which in the grand scheme of things was more of catwalk – displayed the designer’s incredible 3D textiles used to embellish the collection of pretty dresses. Utilising her presence at On|Off, Ada showcased the delectability of clothes made through using up-cycled materials. The outcome of which had the group of ladies behind me swooning.

Christopher Raeburn and Lu Flux, (whose review will be appearing later on today…) are but two of Ada Zanditon’s trailblazing contemporaries in the field of ethical fashion. All three designers are successfully proving there need be no distinction between ‘fashion’ and ‘ethical fashion.’

Surely it is time for all designers to take the ethics of their production lines into consideration: namely where the fabrics originate and who is physically making the clothes for commercial consumption.

When answering Amelia’s Magazine’s final question , Zanditon touched upon the difficult reality of encouraging people to achieve not only sustainable fashion, but sustainable lives; “I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change.”

A common fault in humanities mentality is our failure to project successfully beyond today, nurtured as we are on natural resources being infinite. It is incredibly hard to convince worldwide populations’ materials are and will become finite, whilst items still appear in their thousands on shop floors. Perhaps it will take empty shelves to convince us of the perils of fast fashion.

Intriguingly Ada Zanditon uses geometric cutting to produce zero waste. Tell us how you do it Ada!

Monday saw the fourth day dawn on London Fashion Week and delightfully my first day of intriguing ethical fashion presentations. First up on No. 1 Greek Street was the delightful Lu Flux, visit this followed in the afternoon by – congratulations! – the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon. –

In the run up to London Fashion Week, decease Katie Antoniou interviewed Ada Zanditon about the trials, for sale tribulations and positive rewards of producing innovative ethical fashion. Often the problem lies in the assumption that ethical fashion is boring and unfashionable – that most heinous of sins! – a situation being speedily rectified with the continuing presence of Estethica’s exhibition and support of young designers exploring the possibility of sustainable fashion at London Fashion Week Exhibition.

Starting at 2pm, Ada Zanditon’s presentation – which in the grand scheme of things was more of catwalk – displayed the designer’s incredible 3D textiles used to embellish the collection of pretty dresses. Utilising her presence at On|Off, Ada showcased the delectability of clothes made through using up-cycled materials. The outcome of which had the group of ladies behind me swooning.

Christopher Raeburn and Lu Flux, (whose review will be appearing later on today…) are but two of Ada Zanditon’s trailblazing contemporaries in the field of ethical fashion. All three designers are successfully proving there need be no distinction between ‘fashion’ and ‘ethical fashion.’

Surely it is time for all designers to take the ethics of their production lines into consideration: namely where the fabrics originate and who is physically making the clothes for commercial consumption.

When answering Amelia’s Magazine’s final question , Zanditon touched upon the difficult reality of encouraging people to achieve not only sustainable fashion, but sustainable lives; “I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change.”

A common fault in humanities mentality is our failure to project successfully beyond today, nurtured as we are on natural resources being infinite. It is incredibly hard to convince worldwide populations’ materials are and will become finite, whilst items still appear in their thousands on shop floors. Perhaps it will take empty shelves to convince us of the perils of fast fashion.

Intriguingly Ada Zanditon uses geometric cutting to produce zero waste. Tell us how you do it Ada!

Illustration by Kellie Black

The Headonsim exhibition is hidden in the Embankment Galleries on the lower ground floor of Somerset house, doctor behind the BFC tent. I’ve been down there twice, store once on Thursday and once yesterday – and both times it seemed very under attended. Actually, side effects all the exhibitions around the scrum of the registration area seem very quiet but they are all well worth a look, even if it is just to take a closer look at some of the collections as I did upstairs for Louise Amstrup.

Curated by milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones, the Headonism exhibition is all about the hats and is the only section of London Fashion Week to do so. There are only five exhibitors: J Smith, Little Shilpa, Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Soren Bach, but the difference between the stands is remarkable. The xxxxx has no one manning it, nor does Little Shilpa – merely a book to leave details in and the only exhibitor to have put any real effort into their display is Piers Atkinson but more on him later. The importance of showcasing your wares appropriately at London Fashion Week is shockingly something that many have left to the last minute. Read Katie Antoniou’s post on all the exhibitions to find out who did it well.

We were lucky enough to interview two of the exhibitors prior to the show, the first was J Smith Esquire. His exhibit is immediately to your right as you enter the exhibition, displaying his most recent foray into the high street market with a Mister Smith display of flat pack hats in colourful cut out leather. He told us about the collection: ‘Mister Smith is designed to be robust, accessible, affordable millinery with high design values, so everyone can have a J Smith Esquire hat’.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Illustration of J Smith Esquire by Kellie Black

Mixing together the ready-to-wear and couture, J Smiths talent shines with his main collections. Illuminated promises to be VERY eclectic, ‘(it’s) inspired by vintage Italian fashion papers to create a modern-day Edwardian couture, and yes, expect a very colourful collection!’

Illustration of Little Shilpa by Yelena Bryksenkova

Little Shilpa’s stand is on each side as you exit the exhibition space, and displays an array of great headpieces, necklaces and hats. Her work is crazy, but in a good way. His designs are definitely not for the wallflowers among us, something crystalised by his naming Bjork as the dream candidate for one of his creations!

With an Indian heritage it is unsurprising to hear that the inspiration for his Headonism show picks up on this , ‘the pieces were inspired from Bombay and London, there was an obvious juxtaposition of the 2 cities …all the pieces were specially created for Headonism as it was my first formal showing in London hence a sort of introduction to my inspirations ‘.

Little Shilpa totally agreed with Piers Atkinson’s comment that millinery finally becomes more about having fun rather than the obligatory weddings and funerals, ‘working out of India it has always been about fun and design’. Long may that continue!

Talking of Piers Atkinson and the move away from wedding/funeral hats his stand is fantastic. More of an exploded flower stall mixed with Hollywood clichés and mini people, I spent a-g-e-s peering at every single one of his creations. With lots of green felt, and miniature people Atkinson definitely taps into the fun side of millinery and his collection is so good: silly, energetic and vibrant. Spilling with colours and quirks, the Hollywood sign features heavily, as do clashing flowers and little gold spikes. If you want a break from the oh so serious fashion upstairs at BFC, pop down to Atkinson’s stand for a giggle.

Illustration by Kellie Black

Monday saw the fourth day dawn on London Fashion Week and delightfully my first day of intriguing ethical fashion presentations. First up on No. 1 Greek Street was the delightful Lu Flux, adiposity followed in the afternoon by – congratulations! – the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon. –

In the run up to London Fashion Week, click Katie Antoniou interviewed Ada Zanditon about the trials, pill tribulations and positive rewards of producing innovative ethical fashion. Often the problem lies in the assumption that ethical fashion is boring and unfashionable – that most heinous of sins! – a situation being speedily rectified with the continuing presence of Estethica’s exhibition and support of young designers exploring the possibility of sustainable fashion at London Fashion Week Exhibition.

Starting at 2pm, Ada Zanditon’s presentation – which in the grand scheme of things was more of catwalk – displayed the designer’s incredible 3D textiles used to embellish the collection of pretty dresses. Utilising her presence at On|Off, Ada showcased the delectability of clothes made through using up-cycled materials. The outcome of which had the group of ladies behind me swooning.

Christopher Raeburn and Lu Flux, (whose review will be appearing later on today…) are but two of Ada Zanditon’s trailblazing contemporaries in the field of ethical fashion. All three designers are successfully proving there need be no distinction between ‘fashion’ and ‘ethical fashion.’

Surely it is time for all designers to take the ethics of their production lines into consideration: namely where the fabrics originate and who is physically making the clothes for commercial consumption.

When answering Amelia’s Magazine’s final question , Zanditon touched upon the difficult reality of encouraging people to achieve not only sustainable fashion, but sustainable lives; “I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change.”

A common fault in humanities mentality is our failure to project successfully beyond today, nurtured as we are on natural resources being infinite. It is incredibly hard to convince worldwide populations’ materials are and will become finite, whilst items still appear in their thousands on shop floors. Perhaps it will take empty shelves to convince us of the perils of fast fashion.

Intriguingly Ada Zanditon uses geometric cutting to produce zero waste. Tell us how you do it Ada!

Monday saw the fourth day dawn on London Fashion Week and delightfully my first day of intriguing ethical fashion presentations. First up on No. 1 Greek Street was the delightful Lu Flux, page followed in the afternoon by – congratulations! – the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon. –

In the run up to London Fashion Week, Katie Antoniou interviewed Ada Zanditon about the trials, tribulations and positive rewards of producing innovative ethical fashion. Often the problem lies in the assumption that ethical fashion is boring and unfashionable – that most heinous of sins! – a situation being speedily rectified with the continuing presence of Estethica’s exhibition and support of young designers exploring the possibility of sustainable fashion at London Fashion Week Exhibition.

Starting at 2pm, Ada Zanditon’s presentation – which in the grand scheme of things was more of catwalk – displayed the designer’s incredible 3D textiles used to embellish the collection of pretty dresses. Utilising her presence at On|Off, Ada showcased the delectability of clothes made through using up-cycled materials. The outcome of which had the group of ladies behind me swooning.

Christopher Raeburn and Lu Flux, (whose review will be appearing later on today…) are but two of Ada Zanditon’s trailblazing contemporaries in the field of ethical fashion. All three designers are successfully proving there need be no distinction between ‘fashion’ and ‘ethical fashion.’

Surely it is time for all designers to take the ethics of their production lines into consideration: namely where the fabrics originate and who is physically making the clothes for commercial consumption.

When answering Amelia’s Magazine’s final question , Zanditon touched upon the difficult reality of encouraging people to achieve not only sustainable fashion, but sustainable lives; “I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change.”

A common fault in humanities mentality is our failure to project successfully beyond today, nurtured as we are on natural resources being infinite. It is incredibly hard to convince worldwide populations’ materials are and will become finite, whilst items still appear in their thousands on shop floors. Perhaps it will take empty shelves to convince us of the perils of fast fashion.

Intriguingly Ada Zanditon uses geometric cutting to produce zero waste. Tell us how you do it Ada!

Illustrations by Paolo Caravello

Monday saw the fourth day dawn on London Fashion Week and delightfully my first day of intriguing ethical fashion presentations. First up on No. 1 Greek Street was the delightful Lu Flux, drug followed in the afternoon by – congratulations! – the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon. –

In the run up to London Fashion Week, stuff Katie Antoniou interviewed Ada Zanditon about the trials, tribulations and positive rewards of producing innovative ethical fashion. Often the problem lies in the assumption that ethical fashion is boring and unfashionable – that most heinous of sins! – a situation being speedily rectified with the continuing presence of Estethica’s exhibition and support of young designers exploring the possibility of sustainable fashion at London Fashion Week Exhibition.

Illustrations by Paolo Caravello

Starting at 2pm, Ada Zanditon’s presentation – which in the grand scheme of things was more of catwalk – displayed the designer’s incredible 3D textiles used to embellish the collection of pretty dresses. Utilising her presence at On|Off, Ada showcased the delectability of clothes made through using up-cycled materials. The outcome of which had the group of ladies behind me swooning.

Christopher Raeburn and Lu Flux, (whose review will be appearing later on today…) are but two of Ada Zanditon’s trailblazing contemporaries in the field of ethical fashion. All three designers are successfully proving there need be no distinction between ‘fashion’ and ‘ethical fashion.’

Surely it is time for all designers to take the ethics of their production lines into consideration: namely where the fabrics originate and who is physically making the clothes for commercial consumption.

Illustrations by Paolo Caravello

When answering Amelia’s Magazine’s final question , Zanditon touched upon the difficult reality of encouraging people to achieve not only sustainable fashion, but sustainable lives; “I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change.”

A common fault in humanities mentality is our failure to project successfully beyond today, nurtured as we are on natural resources being infinite. It is incredibly hard to convince worldwide populations’ materials are and will become finite, whilst items still appear in their thousands on shop floors. Perhaps it will take empty shelves to convince us of the perils of fast fashion.

Intriguingly Ada Zanditon uses geometric cutting to produce zero waste. Tell us how you do it Ada!

Illustrations by Paolo Caravello

Monday saw the fourth day dawn on London Fashion Week and delightfully my first day of intriguing ethical fashion presentations. First up on No. 1 Greek Street was the delightful Lu Flux, visit followed in the afternoon by – congratulations! – the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon. –

All photographs by Sally Mumby-Croft

In the run up to London Fashion Week, order Katie Antoniou interviewed Ada Zanditon about the trials, tribulations and positive rewards of producing innovative ethical fashion. Often the problem lies in the assumption that ethical fashion is boring and unfashionable – that most heinous of sins! – a situation being speedily rectified with the continuing presence of Estethica’s exhibition and support of young designers exploring the possibility of sustainable fashion at London Fashion Week Exhibition.

Illustrations by Paolo Caravello

Starting at 2pm, Ada Zanditon’s presentation – which in the grand scheme of things was more of catwalk – displayed the designer’s incredible 3D textiles used to embellish the collection of pretty dresses. Utilising her presence at On|Off, Ada showcased the delectability of clothes made through using up-cycled materials. The outcome of which had the group of ladies behind me swooning.

Christopher Raeburn and Lu Flux, (whose review will be appearing later on today…) are but two of Ada Zanditon’s trailblazing contemporaries in the field of ethical fashion. All three designers are successfully proving there need be no distinction between ‘fashion’ and ‘ethical fashion.’

Surely it is time for all designers to take the ethics of their production lines into consideration: namely where the fabrics originate and who is physically making the clothes for commercial consumption.

Illustrations by Paolo Caravello

When answering Amelia’s Magazine’s final question , Zanditon touched upon the difficult reality of encouraging people to achieve not only sustainable fashion, but sustainable lives; “I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change.”

A common fault in humanities mentality is our failure to project successfully beyond today, nurtured as we are on natural resources being infinite. It is incredibly hard to convince worldwide populations’ materials are and will become finite, whilst items still appear in their thousands on shop floors. Perhaps it will take empty shelves to convince us of the perils of fast fashion.

Intriguingly Ada Zanditon uses geometric cutting to produce zero waste. Tell us how you do it Ada!

Illustration by Kellie Black

The Headonsim exhibition is hidden in the Embankment Galleries on the lower ground floor of Somerset house, order behind the BFC tent. I’ve been down there twice, order once on Thursday and once yesterday – and both times it seemed very under attended. Actually, all the exhibitions around the scrum of the registration area seem very quiet but they are all well worth a look, even if it is just to take a closer look at some of the collections as I did upstairs for Louise Amstrup.

Curated by milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones, the Headonism exhibition is all about the hats and is the only section of London Fashion Week to do so. There are only five exhibitors: J Smith, Little Shilpa, Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Soren Bach, but the difference between the stands is remarkable. The xxxxx has no one manning it, nor does Little Shilpa – merely a book to leave details in and the only exhibitor to have put any real effort into their display is Piers Atkinson but more on him later. The importance of showcasing your wares appropriately at London Fashion Week is shockingly something that many have left to the last minute. Read Katie Antoniou’s post on all the exhibitions to find out who did it well.

Illustration of J Smith Esquire by Kellie Black

We were lucky enough to interview two of the exhibitors prior to the show, the first was J Smith Esquire. His exhibit is immediately to your right as you enter the exhibition, displaying his most recent foray into the high street market with a Mister Smith display of flat pack hats in colourful cut out leather. He told us about the collection: ‘Mister Smith is designed to be robust, accessible, affordable millinery with high design values, so everyone can have a J Smith Esquire hat’.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Mixing together the ready-to-wear and couture, J Smiths talent shines with his main collections. Illuminated promises to be VERY eclectic, ‘(it’s) inspired by vintage Italian fashion papers to create a modern-day Edwardian couture, and yes, expect a very colourful collection!’

Illustration of Little Shilpa by Yelena Bryksenkova

Little Shilpa’s stand is on each side as you exit the exhibition space, and displays an array of great headpieces, necklaces and hats. Her work is crazy, but in a good way. His designs are definitely not for the wallflowers among us, something crystalised by his naming Bjork as the dream candidate for one of his creations!

With an Indian heritage it is unsurprising to hear that the inspiration for his Headonism show picks up on this , ‘the pieces were inspired from Bombay and London, there was an obvious juxtaposition of the 2 cities …all the pieces were specially created for Headonism as it was my first formal showing in London hence a sort of introduction to my inspirations ‘.

Little Shilpa totally agreed with Piers Atkinson’s comment that millinery finally becomes more about having fun rather than the obligatory weddings and funerals, ‘working out of India it has always been about fun and design’. Long may that continue!

Talking of Piers Atkinson and the move away from wedding/funeral hats his stand is fantastic. More of an exploded flower stall mixed with Hollywood clichés and mini people, I spent a-g-e-s peering at every single one of his creations. With lots of green felt, and miniature people Atkinson definitely taps into the fun side of millinery and his collection is so good: silly, energetic and vibrant. Spilling with colours and quirks, the Hollywood sign features heavily, as do clashing flowers and little gold spikes. If you want a break from the oh so serious fashion upstairs at BFC, pop down to Atkinson’s stand for a giggle.

Illustration by Kellie Black

Photograph of Piers Atkinson by Florence Massey

Illustration of Piers Atkinson Kellie Black

The Headonsim exhibition is hidden in the Embankment Galleries on the lower ground floor of Somerset house, sildenafil behind the BFC tent. I’ve been down there twice, buy once on Thursday and once yesterday – and both times it seemed very under attended. Actually, all the exhibitions around the scrum of the registration area seem very quiet but they are all well worth a look, even if it is just to take a closer look at some of the collections as I did upstairs for Louise Amstrup.

Curated by milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones, the Headonism exhibition is all about the hats and is the only section of London Fashion Week to do so. There are only five exhibitors: J Smith, Little Shilpa, Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Soren Bach, but the difference between the stands is remarkable. The xxxxx has no one manning it, nor does Little Shilpa – merely a book to leave details in and the only exhibitor to have put any real effort into their display is Piers Atkinson but more on him later. The importance of showcasing your wares appropriately at London Fashion Week is shockingly something that many have left to the last minute. Read Katie Antoniou’s post on all the exhibitions to find out who did it well.

Illustration of J Smith Esquire by Kellie Black

We were lucky enough to interview two of the exhibitors prior to the show, the first was J Smith Esquire. His exhibit is immediately to your right as you enter the exhibition, displaying his most recent foray into the high street market with a Mister Smith display of flat pack hats in colourful cut out leather. He told us about the collection: ‘Mister Smith is designed to be robust, accessible, affordable millinery with high design values, so everyone can have a J Smith Esquire hat’.

Photograph from Mister Smith collection by Florence Massey

Mixing together the ready-to-wear and couture, J Smiths talent shines with his main collections, the most recent entitled ‘Illuminated’ is sure to be as highly impressive as his previous efforts. The new collection promises to be VERY eclectic, ‘(it’s) inspired by vintage Italian fashion papers to create a modern-day Edwardian couture, and yes, expect a very colourful collection!’

Illustration of Little Shilpa by Yelena Bryksenkova

Little Shilpa’s stand is on each side as you exit the exhibition space, and displays an array of great headpieces, necklaces and hats. His work is crazy, but in a good way. The designs are definitely not for the wallflowers among us, something crystalised by his naming Bjork as a dream customer!

With an Indian heritage it is unsurprising to hear that the inspiration for his Headonism show picks up on this , ‘the pieces were inspired from Bombay and London, there was an obvious juxtaposition of the 2 cities …all the pieces were specially created for Headonism as it was my first formal showing in London hence a sort of introduction to my inspirations’.

Photograph of J Shilpa by Florence Massey

Little Shilpa agrees with Piers Atkinson’s very true comment that millinery has finally become more about having fun rather than the obligatory weddings and funerals, ‘working out of India it has always been about fun and design’. Long may that continue!

Talking of Piers Atkinson and the move away from wedding/funeral hats his stand is fantastic. More of an exploded flower stall mixed with Hollywood clichés and mini people, I spent a-g-e-s peering at every single one of his creations. With lots of green felt, and miniature people Atkinson definitely taps into the fun side of millinery and his collection is so good: silly, energetic and vibrant. Spilling with colours and quirks, the Hollywood sign features heavily, as do clashing flowers and little gold spikes. If you want a break from the oh so serious fashion upstairs at BFC, pop down to Atkinson’s stand for a giggle.

Illustration of Piers Atkinson by Kellie Black

Photograph of Piers Atkinson by Florence Massey

At a mere 20 years of age, health Louisiana native and child of a Muscle Shoals session musician, Dylan LeBlanc is wise beyond his years. His debut album, Paupers Fields, came out in August on Rough Trade Records, and has all the hallmarks of becoming a classic addition to the rich Americana and country music tradition of his home state. Growing up between Shreveport, Louisiana and Muscle Shoals, Alabama, LeBlanc has battled a fair few demons in his short life, culminating in a stint in rehab in his late teens. Amelia’s Magazine met up with the soft- spoken southerner to discuss music, booze and the weather.

So your album, Paupers Field, has been out for a month now and has been getting some impressive reviews both sides of the Atlantic. Do you feel good about the record?
It feels good. I try not to read a lot of them. I don’t want to see.

You have been compared to the likes of Neil Young and Ryan Adams – how does that feel as an artist to be compared to such greats?
I guess it’s just a media reference point, you know. That’s how they reference things, but I personally don’t think that I’m a Neil Young…there’s only one Neil Young.

The storytelling in your songs could be comparable to that of Young…
Yeah, I definitely like Neil Young…maybe I do sound a bit like Ryan Adams…I just think that everybody has their own originality and I wish people would try to find that instead of trying to find other things to write about…but those people don’t write songs and they don’t make music, so they don’t understand.

Growing up with the musical heritage that you have had, with your dad being one of the Muscle Shoals session musicians and a songwriter in his own right, plus growing up in a part of the states that has such a rich history of country and Americana music, did you feel that you had an added pressure to live up to a certain level of expectation?
No, I think that you have to stay true to yourself, that’s the most important thing. Just do what you like to do, no matter what…no matter what people think or say or do because everybody is going to try to knock you down a notch or two, you know. It happens and you have to take that as much as the nice things that people have to say.

What sort of advice did your dad give you, as a musician?
When I was real young I spent most of my time with my grandmother [in Shreveport] while he was doing his thing in Muscle Shoals…he would just tell me to write [music] all the time. My Grandmother had all kinds of good records and she listened to really good music, as opposed to my father who was just trying to get hits on the radio, which is understandable, but he likes really good music too.

What sort of music was your grandmother into?
Neil Young. She liked good music. She liked John Prine a lot. My grandfather used to sing and he had an old classical Gibson that he used to play and she would to make him learn songs in a songbook, and he would play it to her in the kitchen while she was cooking.

What music did you discover yourself when you were growing up?
I love Led Zeppelin, they’re one of my favourite artists ever. I think that they are amazing songwriters. The Doors too. I used to listen to a lot of old classic rock.

Did you ever feel like rebelling against your family’s musical tradition and getting heavily into techno or metal, for example?
I played straight up rock and roll for a long time and I played in cover bands and stuff like that. I loved anything but country music but then I always had a secret love for old country music like Hank Williams, Kitty Wells and stuff like that. If you listen to those old records they are just as much art as The Beatles, you know what I mean? If you listen to Waylon Jennings or old Kitty Wells records, the way that they’re laid out plus they’re all cut live…there’s such a wonderful reverb on the vocals, you know…it’s old.

Is that how you recorded Paupers Field?
Yeah, most of it. The basic tracks are all live – the pedal steel, and stuff. I did re-sing two songs that weren’t live where I went back and re sang them later but we weren’t sure if I was going to be able to do that because it was cut live and there was a lot of bleed into the microphones from other instruments. That’s why we had to mix this record the way we did. We had to really fix the bleeding of sounds and spots and stuff.

Do you enjoy the recording process? (Paupers Field is self produced)
I love it. I like producing. I like making beautiful music, you know? Something to listen to. I have a wild imagination and I daydream a lot. Often my manager gets upset with me because he’ll try and talk to me about things and I’m in a other world and didn’t catch anything he just said.

That comes across in your lyrics too – there is a storytelling element there…
I remember being real young and in school and I had a really bad case of attention deficit disorder…but I just try to focus on writing a song and finally I’ll get it…it comes from spending a lot of time by myself, you know, and learning about the type of person I am and the type of artist I wanted to be. What I really loved is forgetting everything that other people wanted me to do and just doing what I wanted to do, which was to make music like I am making right now.

So you’re happy with how the album has turned out….
Yeah, I’m really happy with it – I think that it’s who I am as a person and that’s the most honest thing I have ever done. I’ve been a very dishonest person throughout my life and done some terrible things.

One thing that is so compelling about the record is that is it very confessional lyrically. You seem to have an emotional maturity beyond your years…

I think I have put myself through a lot of things to mature myself. I put myself through hell. I mean, I do it everyday. I drink too much.

Do you think that’s a prerequisite to writing good rock and roll or country music?

I don’t think it helps one lick. I think I just enjoy it.

Do you find it’s easier to write songs when you’re sad or troubled?
I figure that that’s when people are most honest because it’s the things they can’t say to people outright, but they can say it in a song. Because nobody really cares about how you feel, you know? People just go about their day and say ‘I’m sorry, I feel bad for you’ or whatever.

The people you write about in your songs, are they real people?
No, not really. I grew up in a weird situation so I would find these ways to escape. It sounds real schizophrenic and I feel ashamed even talking about it, but it was my way of escaping and I knew that I could always go to a different place [in his mind], close my eyes and breathe again, you know what I mean? And that’s a lot of how I go about songwriting. When things get really bad, I leave – I always run…get in my car and just drive.

Are you happier on your own? Do you find solace in solitude?
At first it was really hard. I felt like an old man but now I’m used to it. I get used to being on my own and doing my own thing. It feels bad sometimes – I think I have anger issues. It’s sometimes so hard for me to be around people sometimes because I feel bad for being there. I wonder if they’re mad or angry at me and I worry too much about those things. I worry about hurting other people – I don’t want to do that but I’m so terribly good at it. I just want to be kind. I want to be a good man.

Paupers Field feels like a very personal record…
Now I’m starting to think that it’s a little too personal. It might have been a little too personal to put out to the general public. I didn’t think it was going to get this much attention. What was yours is now everyone’s. That’s the bad part…there is nothing you can say anymore, you know, because you had the guts to put it out there…so there’s really not much you can defend yourself with after that ,when people want to say things about it.

So you’re playing a few live dates in the UK…
I played the End Of The Road Festival which really turned out well. I was really nervous, I almost panicked before I went out on stage because there was nobody out there before the show and I was, like, ‘Thank God’ but when I walked out there, the whole freaking crowd was, I dunno…there were so many people. I’ve never played to that may people in my whole life.

How did you feel when you came off stage?
It was a good thing, I was buzzing. I felt like I handled myself really well, I was really proud of myself.

So you enjoy playing live?
I love it. It’s one of my favourite things to do, especially when it’s really good. Particularly with our band, everyone’s a great musician but I like it to be really rough around the edges and then get it real tight again, so there are different nights, you know? We can have a totally insanely awesome night and then have one of those nights where it’s like ‘urrgh, we shouldn’t have even gone out there.’ [With the current band] we’ve been doing this for about 4 months but I’ve been playing with John, my drummer, since I was 15.

You’re also playing the 100 Club, one of the most historical venues in London…
Yeah, the Stones played there and Muddy Waters. I’m really excited – I hope the vibe is really good in there. I’m really excited to be here [in London]. It is the most beautiful place I believe I have ever been in my life. I love it here. I like the weather.

Really?? You can take it with you if you like…

I would if I could. It’s better than the 140 degree weather in Alabama. Its pretty hot.

What are you like on tour – are you all rock and roll excess or do you like to take it easy?
Well, the first night here in London I got really drunk. The people here are so kind and so sweet. In America I would have had my ass knocked out in five minutes – I would have been in a fight. Here people just thought ‘oh he’s just having a good time’ and you’re allowed, which I enjoyed. I totally made an ass out of myself – I was dancing and stuff, and I never do that. I think the alcohol content is higher over here…it was a great buzz – I’d been searching for that buzz for a really long time and when I finally found it I lost my mind. The energy was so good and we were all excited…I still am excited.

Do you write when you’re on tour?
I write short stories a lot, more than songs, believe it or not.

Do those stories sometimes turn into songs?
Yeah. I keep this huge [pile of] paper I take everywhere and I write aimlessly all the time. I love the southern Gothic writers, like Faulkner and Tennessee Williams, and I always wanted to be able to do that. I like to do it because it’s fun, but I’m no good at it…

What inspires you to write the most?
It’s almost a thing I get right in my heart. Like, if you looked at a woman or you looked at your mother who you haven’t seen in years that you missed a lot – that’s how it feels for me. It’s so satisfying and gratifying…just an uplifting thing to do. It just makes me feel like I’m useful and I don’t feel useful a lot of the time.

Paupers Field is a record that will connect with a lot of people and mean a lot to them, so that’s pretty useful…
I would love that, I would. I really hope people enjoy it.

Paupers Field is out now on Rough Trade Records.

Illustration of Piers Atkinson Kellie Black

The Headonism exhibition is hidden in the Embankment Galleries on the lower ground floor of Somerset house, sildenafil behind the BFC tent. I’ve been down there twice, page once on Thursday and once yesterday – and both times it seemed very under attended. Actually, page all the exhibitions around the scrum of the registration area seem very quiet but they are all well worth a look, even if it is just to take a closer look at some of the collections as I did upstairs for Louise Amstrup.

Curated by milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones, the Headonism exhibition is all about the hats and is the only section of London Fashion Week to do so. There are only five exhibitors: J Smith, Little Shilpa, Noel Stewart, Piers Atkinson and Soren Bach, but the difference between the stands is remarkable. Disappointingly, the Soren Bach stand has no one manning it, nor does Little Shilpa – merely a book to leave details in.

The only exhibitor to have put any real effort into their display is Piers Atkinson…but more on him later. The importance of showcasing your wares appropriately at London Fashion Week is shockingly something that many have left to the last minute. Read Katie Antoniou’s post on all the exhibitions to find out who did it well.

Illustration of J Smith Esquire by Kellie Black

We were lucky enough to interview two of the exhibitors prior to the show, the first was J Smith Esquire. His exhibit is immediately to your right as you enter the exhibition, displaying his most recent foray into the high street market with a Mister Smith display of flat pack hats in colourful cut out leather. He told us about the collection: ‘Mister Smith is designed to be robust, accessible, affordable millinery with high design values, so everyone can have a J Smith Esquire hat’.

Photograph from Mister Smith collection by Florence Massey

Mixing together the ready-to-wear and couture, J Smiths talent shines with his main collections, the most recent entitled ‘Illuminated’ is sure to be as highly impressive as his previous efforts. The new collection promises to be VERY eclectic, ‘(it’s) inspired by vintage Italian fashion papers to create a modern-day Edwardian couture, and yes, expect a very colourful collection!’

Illustration of Little Shilpa by Yelena Bryksenkova

Little Shilpa’s stand is on each side as you exit the exhibition space, and displays an array of great headpieces, necklaces and hats. His work is crazy, but in a good way. The designs are definitely not for the wallflowers among us, something crystalised by his naming Bjork as a dream customer!

With an Indian heritage it is unsurprising to hear that the inspiration for his Headonism show picks up on this , ‘the pieces were inspired from Bombay and London, there was an obvious juxtaposition of the 2 cities …all the pieces were specially created for Headonism as it was my first formal showing in London hence a sort of introduction to my inspirations’.

Photograph of J Shilpa by Florence Massey

Little Shilpa agrees with Piers Atkinson’s very true comment that millinery has finally become more about having fun rather than the obligatory weddings and funerals, ‘working out of India it has always been about fun and design’. Long may that continue!

Talking of Piers Atkinson and the move away from wedding/funeral hats his stand is fantastic. More of an exploded flower stall mixed with Hollywood clichés and mini people, I spent a-g-e-s peering at every single one of his creations. With lots of green felt, and miniature people Atkinson definitely taps into the fun side of millinery and his collection is so good: silly, energetic and vibrant. Spilling with colours and quirks, the Hollywood sign features heavily, as do clashing flowers and little gold spikes. If you want a break from the oh so serious fashion upstairs at BFC, pop down to Atkinson’s stand for a giggle.

Illustration of Piers Atkinson by Kellie Black

Photograph of Piers Atkinson by Florence Massey

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In our second feature on PayneShurvell’s wonderful series of four day exhibitions titled 4×4, Every collaboration is the result of a sin. Amelia’s Magazine talks to Edward Vince, curator of the third installment; How Am I Not Myself about his Product Design practice, involvement with the collective KithKin, the work of Matthew Robinson and the inspiration behind staging an archival display within the walls of PayneShurvell.

Oh! And if you missed our first review of Daisy Delaney’s Dreams of Desire, you can read it here.

PayneShurvell’s private view for How I Am Not Myself is on Wednesday 22nd September at 6pm.

What first drew you towards the two mediums of design and curation?

Before going to Central Saint Martin’s I studied an art foundation course, and as the year developed I found myself at a crossroad, it was either fine art or design, and then after getting onto the Product Design course at CSM, it was an opportunity too good to turn down, so my background and inspirations have always been split between art and design and so my work always has been as a result. The curation element came from the exhibitions and events I was involved in after graduation.

What is the practice of the collective KithKin and what is your involvement?

KithKin is a collective started by a group of friends who graduated from Product Design at the same time. We exhibited our work at the LDF in 2007 in a bid to get more exposure for our degree work and to create something tangible after the relative anti-climax of graduation. We showed 16 different pieces of design, some our own and some the work of other people we admired. The show was a great success and we went on to produce exhibitions and events internationally in Tokyo, Birmingham and Milan, returning to London and Milan for 2 consecutive years. We also completed work for The Future Laboratory, Covent Garden, WGSN and a 7 week window display for Selfridges. The aim of KithKin was to involve and inspire.

Photograph from KithKin’s SomeRightsReserved, A download only shop for design in Milan in April 2008.

Which artists (if you did) were you referencing during your time on the course and do any continue to inspire your practice?

The Bauhaus was one of my earliest inspirations. Alexander Calder’s work, particularly his ‘mobiles’, first helped me to see the transition between a sketch and a 3 dimensional sculpture. Alan Fletcher is a designer whose work has such integrity and conviction that it still remains fresh and exciting decades later. I am also hugely inspired by the honest and humble message of the Arte Povera movement. Jeff Koons, John Baldessari and Wolfgang Tillmans are also artists that will always inspire my practice.

What is your relationship to the space between art and design? What do you consider this space to be?

I think there is a gap between art and design, but then in the same breath, where do you draw the line? Especially with the whole notion of the ready made, but I do think commercial design has lost its purity, no longer being about functionality and longevity but being brand driven and transient. I wish to create objects that are free from this, and for me I see this as being an art object, one of purity and simplicity. The only definite comparison I can draw is that they are both intended for consumption, albeit in varying forms.

How did you discover the work of Matthew Robinson?

Matthew is a good friend I first met in our first year of university, he studied at Chelsea while I was at CSM and then went onto the Slade. I have always enjoyed his work and am pleased to be able to involve him and to show our work together.

What was the decision process behind the idea to install a pop up museum within the gallery space? Why did you choose this display method?

The pop up museum isn’t happening in such a literal sense anymore. I am instead referencing museum collections and display through my work and the curation of the space.

How will the archival material be displayed during the exhibition at PayneShurvell?

It will be displayed in a very minimal and understated manner with subtle references to museums and galleries.

Does the display reference a particular type of museum? For instance the displays at The British Museum?I have always been inspired by museums of all sorts, finding them rather abstract spaces displaying outmoded, obscure and often unrecognisable objects in a very foreign and unfamiliar context. I also like to consider what could be a museum exhibit of the future, consciously creating ready-made artifacts by commissioning craftsmen to make my ideas. This then creates an immediate line of historical reference giving the objects a certain authority and permanence.

What is included in your archive? And what purpose does it serve?

I have a collection of castor wheels that I purchased from a british manufacturer that makes them and nothing else, not even the chairs to put them on. I saw them at a trade show on display, they do a set of 24 Karat gold plated ones they designed specifically for the Arabic market. They are incredibly tactile and desirable objects and removed from their intended function become inanimate and entirely sculptural. The purpose is to draw attention to design of the everyday and the beauty in the mundane. Also understanding that every object has been designed, so it has a background and a story to tell, much like an ancient artifact you would find in a museum.

Will the archive continue to be added to, once the exhibition at PayneShurvell finishes?

The archive will continue, I am a collector of designed objects be them intentionally artistic or not, I see little difference, there is still a creator, an author and a consumer. It all depends on the context of their display.
I think the essence of an archive is that it is always ongoing, it will never be satisfied. Speak to a stamp collector or a train spotter or even a child with a sticker album, they won’t be satisfied until it is complete, and that conclusion is never guaranteed.

Do you have plans to reinstall the museum in a new space? Would the chosen display method change in relation to a new location?

Would love to take this exhibition, or its concept, to other galleries, cities or countries. One of the big things about my work is that the objects I have commissioned are very much about where they are made and who made them, giving them geographical and historical ties, this interests me as a travelling exhibition but also the potential to create the same ideas using different craftsmen in different cultures, using different materials and techniques so creating a whole new story and aesthetic. Location and context is very important in my work.

Does the location of PayneShurvell or the relationship between yourself and the gallery impact on the work you’ve included within the space?

It is the first exhibition I have curated in an art gallery context so for me it was an opportunity to raise my game, produce work and display it in a very professional and sophisticated manner.

What interested you about constructing an archive?

I think it’s a vain attempt at trying to understand and to some extent gain control of the world in which we live.

Where does the title of the show come from?

There is a wonderful film you may have seen called I Heart Huckabees. It is about existentialism and inner identity. It is very obscure and quite light hearted. It is a quote from this film and in my exhibition refers to objects, not people.

What’s next for Edward Vince?

This is the first show I have curated on my own and was also an opportunity to make work again. I wish to work on more exhibitions in the near future either as a curator or contributing artist. I am also setting up a design studio called VINCE & SON that will re-establish an old family business founded in 1863. It specialised in horse drawn carriage building and painting, and the new studio will focus on design for the arts and culture sector.

Categories ,4×4, ,Anti-design Festival, ,Archive, ,bauhaus, ,Edward Vince, ,KithKin, ,LDF, ,Matthew Robinson, ,museum, ,PayneShurvell, ,pop up museum

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Amelia’s Magazine | O.Children – Interview

petter and the pix thumbnail interview

Last week I had the pleasure of reviewing Petter & the Pix‘s second album, here Good As Gold, malady an eclectic bundle of folk and rock that never sits still longer than one track at a time. I urge you to seek it out, and you can listen to the first single off the album (Never Never) here. Petter, lead singer and ringleader of the group, of sorts, is an Icelandic chap from something of a musical family – his brother, Pontus, is half of the successful pop songwriting duo Bloodshy & Avant (not sure which one), and Petter himself used to be in Iceland’s first big reggae band, Hjálmar, as well as in a few other acts making everything from house beats to jazz. The Pix is Petter’s band, consisting of Mike Svensson on piano, Andreas Gabrielsson on bass, Nils Törnqvist on drums, and Mattias Franzen and Klas Ericsson on guitars. I had a quick catch-up with him to ask about his songwriting process.

Hi, Petter. What is it that you’re trying to do with the Pix? As in, what are you aiming for?

To make music and let everyone that is involved feel as involved as we are. I see music as some sort of get together, and I don’t want to work with anyone unless I can trust them to do their very best. For me a very big part of making music is to find situations where you can create moments of trust, with both your fellow musicians and a possible audience.

How would you describe your sound?

I’d say it some sort of pop.

Your music is extremely varied in style and instrumentation – how much to do you draw upon your experience with genres other than just ‘indie’ in making music?

I don’t really know how to define indie or pop if you are referring to it as a certain style of music. There are so many different music styles that people call indie or pop. The expressions seem to change depending on the decade in which they’re used. I think that for musicians, every piece of music they participate in changes the way they think about making music. If the musical history of the members in a group is varied, the outcome will somehow be a reflection of this.

What’s it like working with such a talented range of musicians? How much do they help in achieving that semi-orchestral breadth of sound?

The musicians are everything that there is! If I would choose another constellation of musicians then I’m sure that it would sound very different, not necessarily bad, but different. The fact that we’re all old friends makes it easier to work together.

What else influences you in your work? Where do you draw your ideas from? The world around you, friends, things like that?

The fact that it’s possible to survive as a musician, and that I enjoy playing and recording music, of course, are definitely the reasons why it’s worth making the effort to finish a song. But I think that what actually triggers the ideas could be just about anything, most likely it’s a combo of different components that effects your emotional state and I believe that music is just a product of that process.

This is your second album – do you feel that you’re progressing as a band?

Yes, I think that this album sounds different from the first one, so that would be progress. We haven’t been touring with this band so we haven’t been able to evolve in terms of meeting an audience. But we’ve played together in different constellations for at least ten years so I think that gives us the comfort to play what we like, even if doesn’t happen that often.

Last week I had the pleasure of reviewing Petter & the Pix‘s second album, this site Good As Gold, capsule an eclectic bundle of folk and rock that never sits still longer than one track at a time. I urge you to seek it out, about it and you can listen to the first single off the album (Never Never) here. Petter, lead singer and ringleader of the group, of sorts, is an Icelandic chap from something of a musical family – his brother, Pontus, is half of the successful pop songwriting duo Bloodshy & Avant (not sure which one), and Petter himself used to be in Iceland’s first big reggae band, Hjálmar, as well as in a few other acts making everything from house beats to jazz. The Pix is Petter’s band, consisting of Mike Svensson on piano, Andreas Gabrielsson on bass, Nils Törnqvist on drums, and Mattias Franzen and Klas Ericsson on guitars. I had a quick catch-up with him to ask about his songwriting process.

Hi, Petter. What is it that you’re trying to do with the Pix? As in, what are you aiming for?

To make music and let everyone that is involved feel as involved as we are. I see music as some sort of get together, and I don’t want to work with anyone unless I can trust them to do their very best. For me a very big part of making music is to find situations where you can create moments of trust, with both your fellow musicians and a possible audience.

How would you describe your sound?

I’d say it some sort of pop.

Your music is extremely varied in style and instrumentation – how much to do you draw upon your experience with genres other than just ‘indie’ in making music?

I don’t really know how to define indie or pop if you are referring to it as a certain style of music. There are so many different music styles that people call indie or pop. The expressions seem to change depending on the decade in which they’re used. I think that for musicians, every piece of music they participate in changes the way they think about making music. If the musical history of the members in a group is varied, the outcome will somehow be a reflection of this.

What’s it like working with such a talented range of musicians? How much do they help in achieving that semi-orchestral breadth of sound?

The musicians are everything that there is! If I would choose another constellation of musicians then I’m sure that it would sound very different, not necessarily bad, but different. The fact that we’re all old friends makes it easier to work together.

What else influences you in your work? Where do you draw your ideas from? The world around you, friends, things like that?

The fact that it’s possible to survive as a musician, and that I enjoy playing and recording music, of course, are definitely the reasons why it’s worth making the effort to finish a song. But I think that what actually triggers the ideas could be just about anything, most likely it’s a combo of different components that effects your emotional state and I believe that music is just a product of that process.

This is your second album – do you feel that you’re progressing as a band?

Yes, I think that this album sounds different from the first one, so that would be progress. We haven’t been touring with this band so we haven’t been able to evolve in terms of meeting an audience. But we’ve played together in different constellations for at least ten years so I think that gives us the comfort to play what we like, even if doesn’t happen that often.

The first thing that you’ll notice about O.Children is that voice. Their singer sounds like he’s singing from the crypt – hell, physician the whole band sound like they’re howling from some horrible netherworld. Their indebtedness to the production style of the late 80s is clear (just stick on ‘Floodland‘ by the Sisters of Mercy to see exactly how much), but their sound owes just as much to more modern exponents of shoegaze and noise rock.

An introductory note here: When I first ‘got’ music, when it became something more than a tinny backing tune on the radio on the school run, it was the 80s that I fell in love with. I would stay up late listening the epic squall that opens Bauhaus’ ‘In The Flat Field‘ over and over again; or I’d search the web for grainy videos of Joy Division performing before they were canonical; or I’d even stay to the very end of Nick Cave‘s solo set at Bristol’s Colston Hall, missing my train back to London and sleeping in the station just because I couldn’t bear to miss a beat. I love how dark that music all sounded, all the space between the notes and the way that the guitars seemed to shiver while some demented sage would chant into the void about bats and judgement and all that nonsense.

Thus my fascination with O.Children, who appear to be rooted in this time period. I fired off a few quick questions to Tobi, their lead singer, on the eve of the launch of their latest single.

Can you introduce yourselves and the rest of the band?

I’m Tobi, I sing and write the songs. Gauthier plays guitar. Harry plays bass and Andrew plays drums. Collectively we’re O.Children.

I’ve been listening to your songs, and I sense an affinity with the darker sides of early 80s post-punk, and (whilst I’m not sure you’d agree with me here) especially some of those proto-goth/industrial bands like Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds and Sisters of Mercy. Where are you coming from with you music – are those the kinds of bands that you draw upon?

We’re certainly inspired by 80s goth music but we’re also into the general sound of the 80s as well as early 90s noise. The production techniques in particular. We love bands like The Birthday Party, Ciccone Youth, Big Black and Ministry, so we just take bits from all those types of bands and add them to our own personal sound. A little bit of edge.

What’s with the name? Is it a Nick Cave reference?

We bonded on ‘Shivers‘ by Boys Next Door, but then we realised that Boys Next Door was already taken and Shivers just didn’t work. O.Children was the next best thing.

What is it that you’re trying to achieve with your sound?

We just want people to enjoy the music. We’re recording out album at the moment and people will hopefully be (pleasantly) surprised by the outcome. We just want people to listen and make up their own minds.

What are you recording or planning to release? Anything soon?

Ruins‘, our second single, is released on April 19. The album should be done and released sometime in June so look out for that also.

Head over to our listings section for more info on the party to celebrate the launch of their latest single, ‘Ruins’.

Categories ,bauhaus, ,Big Black, ,Boys Next Doors, ,Ciccone Youth, ,goth, ,Gothic Rock, ,ian steadman, ,interview, ,joy division, ,Ministry, ,Nick Cave, ,noise, ,O Children, ,Post Punk, ,Ruins, ,Shivers, ,shoegaze, ,Sisters of Mercy, ,The Birthday Party

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