Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear Accessories.

Anna Schwamborn by Lorna Scobie
Anna Schwamborn by Lorna Scobie.

A couple of the collections on the catwalk at the RCA graduate show focused on accessories, medications namely millinery and bags.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Alexandra Gold photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Alexandra Gold photography by Amelia Gregory
Alexandra Gold opted to make the most of that pesky fur sponsorship, creating a series of oversized baseball caps, some of which were adorned with fur. Which just leaves me with the overwhelming question: WHY?

Paul Stafford by Lorna Scobie
Paul Stafford by Lorna Scobie.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Paul Stafford photography by Amelia Gregory

Paul Stafford did something far more interesting with oversized brims that loomed over the eyes. Some appeared to be part of a garment, fabric draped over the top of the hat then flowing down the body and belted in at the waist. Totally unwearable on an every day basis but nonetheless beautiful.

Anna Shwamborn by Sandra ContrerasAnna Shwamborn by Sandra Contreras
Anna Shwamborn by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Schwamborn photography by Amelia Gregory
Anna Schwamborn presented an unusual bag collection that included some interesting tooled leather and ruffled collars and hand cuffs. Horned straps held capacious bags across the body. She has a website!

All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexandra Gold, ,Anna Schwamborn, ,Bags, ,Fur, ,Graduate fashion shows, ,hats, ,horns, ,Lorna Scobie, ,millinery, ,Paul Stafford, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Thirty Years of Ally Capellino at The Wapping Project

little comets

Photos by Jazzy Lemon

It’s not often that a support band makes your ears prick up and pay attention; too often I’ve been to gigs where sub-standard support acts make the wait for the headliners feel that little bit longer. I doubt in their short career that Little Comets have ever had that problem.

They caught my attention when they supported the Noisettes on their national tour last year, and so it was exciting to see the band headline the Joiners in Southampton last week.

Little Comets are already favourites with the music press after a few well publicised stunts such as playing on the Metro, purchase or in the bakery isle of the local Marks & Spencer store, sales in their hometown of Newcastle. Their single ‘One Night In October’ reached No. 1 in the independent singles chart, so they’ve already got a relatively huge following.

It was the busiest I’ve seen the Joiners; it was a room full of sweaty, drunk lads who were all pretty excited for the band to start. When Little Comets play live they breathe life into their bouncy, poppy songs. It’s impossible not to get caught up in the fun of their live sets. At such an intimate venue, the gig really felt like we were watching something special.

Yes, Little Comets are a guitar band and that’s nothing new, but their songs and the way they approach them really are. In a genre that’s been done to death already, Little Comets are unexpectedly unique. In half an hour they convinced me that there is a future for guitar bands; something that no one has been able to do for a good year or so.

The audience sang along to pretty much every song as the band bounced their way through their perfectly formed pop-tracks such as ‘Friday Don’t Need It’ and ‘Adultery’, but it was ‘Joanna’ that really stood out. Unlike their other guitar-pop tunes, this a capella track quietened the room. It’s the song that sets them above their contemporaries and proves they’re not just four guys playing poppy lad-rock. They’re not a grown-up version of McFly, they’re a group of proper musicians who write proper lyrics and know how to engage the crowd.

Someone in the crowd shouted up to singer Rob, confessing that his girlfriend loved him. Rob got a lot of love that night; a couple of tracks in someone shouted that they loved him too. His witty responses, which were quicker than a heartbeat, had the crowd laughing throughout the set. Little Comets are the kind of band that will do well during the festival season. The fun they radiate is infectious and I can imagine nothing nicer than dancing in the afternoon to one of their sets.

They won over my friend whose CD collection extends to a collection of Now albums and the Glee soundtrack If they can do that, I have no doubt they’ll charm their audiences on the rest of the tour, and wherever else they get to play this summer.

Illustration by Aniela Murphy

The other Saturday I took a little trip down to The Wapping Project to see the rather splendid Ally Capellino exhibition. Completely under-publicised, drugs I have to thank Susie over at Style Bubble for bringing it to my attention. I’m a huge fan of this understated label, and I often pop into their store on Calvert Avenue in Shoreditch to salivate over their rather wonderful bags, rewarding myself with a coffee at Leila’s afterwards.

Turns out I’m a mere moment from The Wapping Project too, so I popped down with a couple of pals, only to be told by a florist, who shall remain nameless, that the exhibition was closed due to a wedding. Saddened, we stood outside hoping that we could at least get a glimpse through the window. LUCKILY, the director of the WP ushered us in. The wedding wasn’t due to start for a while (the International Sales Director of Topshop’s wedding, none-the-less, lah-de-dah) so we had twenty-two minutes to zip round.

The Wapping Project is ‘an idea consistently in transition’ and is set in the Wapping Hydraulic Power Station. Its interior remains pretty much as it would have done when in commercial use, with power hydrants and various power station ephemera still clinging solidly to the floors, around which the space is managed. During the evenings, the main room is transformed into an a la carte restaurant, and said wedding looked pretty incredible.

In the lower, darker, damper room, the Ally Capellino exhibition occupies the entire space. The central exhibition, made from recycled doors and different types of wood, tells the story of this intriguing brand, encircled by portraits of various fashionistas modelling different luggage and apparel.

Ally Capellino is the baby and brainchild of Alison Lloyd, began in 1980 (obv, being its thirtieth birthday). It’s gone from being a very small operation to an acclaimed British leather label. In her own words, she’s gone from ‘young designer to old bag lady’ and this exhibition sees Alison take a nostalgic and sometimes ‘embarrassing’ trip down memory lane.

The essence of Ally Capellino is predominantly British, with sneaky and slight European influences – often the simple style of the Scandinavians. The choronilogical exhibition explains, in just the right amount of detail, the progression of the label year-on-year.. The focus is it’s creative bag and luggage range, with clothing peppered here and there.

The label was originally set up as a clothing brand, and some of the examples on display of early garments are a total treat. It’s only been the past ten years where the accessories have shone through and become the stronghold, but the label has produced some exciting and innovative clothing throughout its existence.

There were graphic patterns, floral prints and neat tailoring in the 1980s:

…While a more futuristic style came through in 1990s with clean lines and masculine shapes:

…and childrenswear has remained fun and hip, reflecting the styles of the mens and womenswear whilst remaining playful:

The focus of the exhibition is the ‘bag wall’ – a huge wall dedicated to said bags – a mixture of new styles and vintage examples sent in by dedicated followers of the brand. Each bag has it’s only story to tell and numbers attached to the bag link to a wall of numbered stories. The essence of the brand is it’s focus on quality – some of these bags, which appear relatively new, are twenty years old for God’s sake!

Rupert Blanchard is behind the recycled, industrial look of the exhibition, and he shares Alison’s ‘passion for salvage and dread of waste’ and nothing looks out of place in this historical landmark.

There’s also a great selection of press material and advertising spanning the whole Ally Capellino era, with some great menswear advertisements, photographic thumbnails, and Vogue featured-in cards:

What does the future hold for the brand? Well, more of the same, please. With a host of collaborations with the likes of the Tate galleries and Apple, I expect there’ll be more of this in the pipeline. And what to say of the bags? Well, hopefully these beautiful creations, in a variety of subtle leathers and complimentary materials, will be produced for years to come.

Head down to the exhibition fast because it’s not on for long – go on, you’ll have a whopping time, even if fashion’s not necessarily your bag. (With puns like these, I should really work in Wapping for a certain tabloid newspaper.)


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Check out all the important deets here.

Categories ,Alison Lloyd, ,Ally Capellino, ,Apple, ,Bags, ,Calvert Avenue, ,fashion, ,Hipstamatic, ,leather, ,Leila’s Café, ,Recycled wood, ,Rupert Blanchard, ,Salvage, ,shoreditch, ,Tate, ,The Wapping Project, ,vogue, ,wapping

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Amelia’s Magazine | Veja launch ‘Projet Numero Deux’ – satchels and sacks, ethical style

Shannon_Natasha_untitled
Shannon_Natasha_children

Take a look at Shannon’s website, there her Flickr or Tumblr, this web and you’ll get to peek into a world of ‘almost’ – almost grown up, almost ready, almost on your way. I feel I should apologise to Shannon in case that sounds patronising, but I mean this in the best way possible. Looking at Shannon’s photos brings back a feeling of being on the verge, excited and nervous at the thought of everything ahead. Right now, the 17–year-old is finishing her high school exams at home in Australia, and has to choose whether to go on to study photography full time or do something else. Almost entirely self-taught, she’s worried that taking her photography to a more professional level could take the fun out of it. But for one more summer, in a place infinitely more sunny than Britain, she is still free to roam around with friends and her camera.

Shannon_Natasha_selfportrait
Shannon Natasha: self portrait.

Shannon’s photos have a fresh and uninhibited feel, with a playful and sometimes dreamy streak. As her self portrait demonstrates, she knows a thing or two about technique and lighting too, and a browse through her work shows she has a good eye for intriguing detail. I think this is what they mean when they talk about talent.

What is it that you love about photography?
I love having the ability to focus on different points, pinpointing something specific you want people to be drawn to. I love creating stories and dreams in my photos, documenting events and recording emotions. I love being able to alter reality, spinning it whichever way I feel.

What sparked your interest in picture-taking?
I’ve actually had an interest in cameras since I was very young, receiving my first one as a birthday present when I was about five. I really developed my love for photography around the age of 14, and I delved further into the art by purchasing my first DSLR camera last year. This gave me much more manual freedom, which I had desired for so long. Previous to this I would often borrow the DSLRs from my school, or use my friend’s. I also used film SLRs. I’m mainly self taught, although I did learn a little more in choosing digital photography as an elective at school two years ago.
 
Shannon_Natasha_CF_VII

You have some great fashion-themed shots in your collection, but my favourites are probably the more ‘quiet’ photos, such as the wire hanger and the rose-painted doorknobs. Which style of photography do you like best?
My favourite shots are often the simple ones, although my different styles of photos all appeal to different parts of me. I love fashion and that’s why I love taking fashion shots. I also adore story telling, the ability to evoke emotion in others through art, and sometimes just having something pretty to look at, something that will sweeten my eyes and hopefully the eyes of others who see my photos. This is one thing I love about taking photos as a hobby, I take them for me. I don’t have any photos that other people have dictated.

Shannon_Natasha_hang_on
Hang on

You seem to be doing more and more fashion shoots. Is this the direction you’d like to go as a photographer?
I don’t think I could ever decide on one direction. I’m definitely interested in shooting fashion but I’d never want to limit myself. One thing I love about photography is the freedom and having the ability to capture my own visions. Sometimes I may have the intention of shooting a fashion-styled set of photos and end up getting carried away with more abstract or conceptual shots.

Shannon_Natasha_i_see_the_light_surrounding_you
I see the light surrounding you.

From where do you draw inspiration? Who are your favourite photographers?
I often draw inspiration from magazines, websites like Tumblr, amazing artists on Flickr and in the world, through music, through relationships, books and my family and friends. Many of my favourite photographers are not necessarily world-renowned. I absolutely love work by Alison Scarpulla, Jeannine Tan, Mary Robinson, Muszka, Tamara Lichtenstein, Nirrimi Hackanson and Evan Hawke. Their photos just catch my breath. 

Do you spend a lot of time getting the settings and light right, or is it a more impulsive process? Do you do much post-production?
It’s becoming much more impulsive now, although I do remember when it would take me four or five shots to get the settings right. Now it only takes one or two. Crazy weather in Australia, when the sun can’t make up its mind, doesn’t help. I don’t edit much if I’m shooting fashion or would like the photos to look more realistic, but if I’m going for something a little more magical I tend to spend a bit of time editing.

Shannon_Natasha_140410

With school over, what’s your plan?
The next thing for me will be university or possible an art college, where I will major in photography. At the moment I’d like to do both photography as well as something like law or psychology, but I may not even pursue photography in future study. I enjoy it very much as a hobby, so pushing money and survival into the equation may take some of my love from photography and replace it with nerves and fear which would ultimately be negative.

Shannon_Natasha_black

Other than photography, what makes you happy?
Other than taking photos, my passion is dancing. Mainly hip hop. Definitely dancing.

Shannon_Natasha_children

Take a look at Shannon’s website, this her Flickr or Tumblr, and you’ll get to peek into a world of ‘almost’ – almost grown up, almost ready, almost on your way. I feel I should apologise to Shannon in case that sounds patronising, but I mean this in the best way possible. Looking at Shannon’s photos brings back a feeling of being on the verge, excited and nervous at the thought of everything ahead. Right now, the 17–year-old is finishing her high school exams at home in Australia, and has to choose whether to go on to study photography full time or do something else. Almost entirely self-taught, she’s worried that taking her photography to a more professional level could take the fun out of it. But for one more summer, in a place infinitely more sunny than Britain, she is still free to roam around with friends and her camera.

Shannon_Natasha_selfportrait
Shannon Natasha: self portrait.

Shannon’s photos have a fresh and uninhibited feel, with a playful and sometimes dreamy streak. As her self portrait demonstrates, she knows a thing or two about technique and lighting too, and a browse through her work shows she has a good eye for intriguing detail. I think this is what they mean when they talk about talent.

What is it that you love about photography?
I love having the ability to focus on different points, pinpointing something specific you want people to be drawn to. I love creating stories and dreams in my photos, documenting events and recording emotions. I love being able to alter reality, spinning it whichever way I feel.

Shannon_Natasha_untitled

What sparked your interest in picture-taking?
I’ve actually had an interest in cameras since I was very young, receiving my first one as a birthday present when I was about five. I really developed my love for photography around the age of 14, and I delved further into the art by purchasing my first DSLR camera last year. This gave me much more manual freedom, which I had desired for so long. Previous to this I would often borrow the DSLRs from my school, or use my friend’s. I also used film SLRs. I’m mainly self taught, although I did learn a little more in choosing digital photography as an elective at school two years ago.
 
Shannon_Natasha_CF_VII

You have some great fashion-themed shots in your collection, but my favourites are probably the more ‘quiet’ photos, such as the wire hanger and the rose-painted doorknobs. Which style of photography do you like best?
My favourite shots are often the simple ones, although my different styles of photos all appeal to different parts of me. I love fashion and that’s why I love taking fashion shots. I also adore story telling, the ability to evoke emotion in others through art, and sometimes just having something pretty to look at, something that will sweeten my eyes and hopefully the eyes of others who see my photos. This is one thing I love about taking photos as a hobby, I take them for me. I don’t have any photos that other people have dictated.

Shannon_Natasha_hang_on
Hang on

You seem to be doing more and more fashion shoots. Is this the direction you’d like to go as a photographer?
I don’t think I could ever decide on one direction. I’m definitely interested in shooting fashion but I’d never want to limit myself. One thing I love about photography is the freedom and having the ability to capture my own visions. Sometimes I may have the intention of shooting a fashion-styled set of photos and end up getting carried away with more abstract or conceptual shots.

Shannon_Natasha_i_see_the_light_surrounding_you
I see the light surrounding you.

From where do you draw inspiration? Who are your favourite photographers?
I often draw inspiration from magazines, websites like Tumblr, amazing artists on Flickr and in the world, through music, through relationships, books and my family and friends. Many of my favourite photographers are not necessarily world-renowned. I absolutely love work by Alison Scarpulla, Jeannine Tan, Mary Robinson, Muszka, Tamara Lichtenstein, Nirrimi Hackanson and Evan Hawke. Their photos just catch my breath. 

Do you spend a lot of time getting the settings and light right, or is it a more impulsive process? Do you do much post-production?
It’s becoming much more impulsive now, although I do remember when it would take me four or five shots to get the settings right. Now it only takes one or two. Crazy weather in Australia, when the sun can’t make up its mind, doesn’t help. I don’t edit much if I’m shooting fashion or would like the photos to look more realistic, but if I’m going for something a little more magical I tend to spend a bit of time editing.

Shannon_Natasha_140410

With school over, what’s your plan?
The next thing for me will be university or possible an art college, where I will major in photography. At the moment I’d like to do both photography as well as something like law or psychology, but I may not even pursue photography in future study. I enjoy it very much as a hobby, so pushing money and survival into the equation may take some of my love from photography and replace it with nerves and fear which would ultimately be negative.

Shannon_Natasha_black

Other than photography, what makes you happy?
Other than taking photos, my passion is dancing. Mainly hip hop. Definitely dancing.

Shannon_Natasha_children

Take a look at Shannon’s website, more about her Flickr or Tumblr, and you’ll get to peek into a world of ‘almost’ – almost grown up, almost ready, almost on your way. I feel I should apologise to Shannon in case that sounds patronising, but I mean this in the best way possible. Looking at Shannon’s photos brings back a feeling of being on the verge, excited and nervous at the thought of everything ahead. Right now, the 17–year-old is finishing her high school exams at home in Australia, and has to choose whether to go on to study photography full time or do something else. Almost entirely self-taught, she’s worried that taking her photography to a more professional level could take the fun out of it. But for one more summer, in a place infinitely more sunny than Britain, she is still free to roam around with friends and her camera.

Shannon_Natasha_selfportrait
Shannon Natasha: self portrait.

Shannon’s photos have a fresh and uninhibited feel, with a playful and sometimes dreamy streak. As her self portrait demonstrates, she knows a thing or two about technique and lighting too, and a browse through her work shows she has a good eye for intriguing detail. I think this is what they mean when they talk about talent.

What is it that you love about photography?
I love having the ability to focus on different points, pinpointing something specific you want people to be drawn to. I love creating stories and dreams in my photos, documenting events and recording emotions. I love being able to alter reality, spinning it whichever way I feel.

Shannon_Natasha_untitled

What sparked your interest in picture-taking?
I’ve actually had an interest in cameras since I was very young, receiving my first one as a birthday present when I was about five. I really developed my love for photography around the age of 14, and I delved further into the art by purchasing my first DSLR camera last year. This gave me much more manual freedom, which I had desired for so long. Previous to this I would often borrow the DSLRs from my school, or use my friend’s. I also used film SLRs. I’m mainly self taught, although I did learn a little more in choosing digital photography as an elective at school two years ago.
 
Shannon_Natasha_CF_VII

You have some great fashion-themed shots in your collection, but my favourites are probably the more ‘quiet’ photos, such as the wire hanger and the rose-painted doorknobs. Which style of photography do you like best?
My favourite shots are often the simple ones, although my different styles of photos all appeal to different parts of me. I love fashion and that’s why I love taking fashion shots. I also adore story telling, the ability to evoke emotion in others through art, and sometimes just having something pretty to look at, something that will sweeten my eyes and hopefully the eyes of others who see my photos. This is one thing I love about taking photos as a hobby, I take them for me. I don’t have any photos that other people have dictated.

Shannon_Natasha_hang_on
Hang on

You seem to be doing more and more fashion shoots. Is this the direction you’d like to go as a photographer?
I don’t think I could ever decide on one direction. I’m definitely interested in shooting fashion but I’d never want to limit myself. One thing I love about photography is the freedom and having the ability to capture my own visions. Sometimes I may have the intention of shooting a fashion-styled set of photos and end up getting carried away with more abstract or conceptual shots.

Shannon_Natasha_i_see_the_light_surrounding_you
I see the light surrounding you.

From where do you draw inspiration? Who are your favourite photographers?
I often draw inspiration from magazines, websites like Tumblr, amazing artists on Flickr and in the world, through music, through relationships, books and my family and friends. Many of my favourite photographers are not necessarily world-renowned. I absolutely love work by Alison Scarpulla, Jeannine Tan, Mary Robinson, Muszka, Tamara Lichtenstein, Nirrimi Hackanson and Evan Hawke. Their photos just catch my breath. 

Do you spend a lot of time getting the settings and light right, or is it a more impulsive process? Do you do much post-production?
It’s becoming much more impulsive now, although I do remember when it would take me four or five shots to get the settings right. Now it only takes one or two. Crazy weather in Australia, when the sun can’t make up its mind, doesn’t help. I don’t edit much if I’m shooting fashion or would like the photos to look more realistic, but if I’m going for something a little more magical I tend to spend a bit of time editing.

Shannon_Natasha_140410

With school over, what’s your plan?
The next thing for me will be university or possible an art college, where I will major in photography. At the moment I’d like to do both photography as well as something like law or psychology, but I may not even pursue photography in future study. I enjoy it very much as a hobby, so pushing money and survival into the equation may take some of my love from photography and replace it with nerves and fear which would ultimately be negative.

Shannon_Natasha_black

Other than photography, what makes you happy?
Other than taking photos, my passion is dancing. Mainly hip hop. Definitely dancing.


The Darkroom on Lamb’s Conduit Street, drug illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

A little while ago (read: ages ago and I’m only just getting around to writing this) I went along to the launch of Veja‘s new luggage line. I’ve digged Veja for ages – purveyors of neat trainers that are totally ethical in production and manufacture. They add a je ne sais quoi to the Shoreditch plimsoll trend, doctor in a host of vibrant colours and fashion-forward designs.

So when I heard they were to develop a line of bags I was over the moon. The launch happened at the Darkroom– the latest hipster shop on Lambs Conduit Street, with its achingly cool dark interior stocking some fabulous products that are hard to find elsewhere. A great atmosphere ensued due in large to cocktail after cocktail, which is brave of Veja considering their new range was dotted around the shop. I always have an acute fear of throwing a flirtini over an over-priced frock extremely over-priced artwork when I attend these functions.


Illustration by Katie Walters

The new line of bags is, quite simply, brilliant. In a range of a cool colours including dark blues, browns and creams, the bags come in a variety of shapes and sizes- from rucksacks to larger luggage styles. They’re al quality crafted, whether it be a canvas day bag or satchels in soft leather. And, as always, they’re totally ethical. The pure cotton canvas is always organic, the leather is vegetable-tanned and they’re all produced in Brazil using skilled workers who are paid well and looked after. So, not only do you look super-stylish, you can swagger guilt-free.


Illustration by Stacie Swift

Since the bag launch, Veja have released their latest season of trainers, which I reckon is the best range yet. Vegetable-tanned suede and wild Amazonian rubber make up this delicious new footwear range, called the Indigenous. You can watch the video of the shoot right here:

Veja — LOOKBOOK INDIGENOS from Veja on Vimeo.

Here are some photographs from the event for your delectation:

The best thing about Veja is that their ethical products won’t break the bank. Find out more about them on their website, and you can read more about ethical labels in Amelia’s new book.

Enjoy!

Categories ,Amazon, ,Bags, ,brazil, ,Darkroom, ,ethical, ,fashion, ,Lambs Conduit Street, ,leather, ,Rucksacks, ,Satchels, ,Veja

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Amelia’s Magazine | New A/W 2013 Season Interview: Meet Fashion Designer CC KUO

CC KUO by Laura Hickman
CC Kuo by Laura Hickman

I’ve always wondered about the phrase ‘the sun has put his hat on’. What does it mean exactly? What kind of hat is it? Is it a sombrero or a sunhat, a beret or a beanie? Maybe even a boater tipped stylishly to one side? And why does everyone assume the sun is a ‘he’? Even the French language, with its masculine and feminine nouns describes it as ‘le soleil’, but, I’ve always thought of it as a bit more femme. With CC Kuo around, this is a question (and philosophical debate) that doesn’t need to be answered (or explored in a neverending cycle of questions). Forget the sun putting his headgear on, you can get your sun on.

CC KUO

CC Kuo‘s latest collection is a range of clothes patterned with skylines and sunsets. The pieces feature cloud-cover on dresses, sunlight peeking out of coat shoulders, and even beams bursting out of busts. What more could a gal want than to have something as beautiful as dawn and dusk right there on her lapel?! Just looking at these togs makes me think of the imagery in the (ever overused but still undeniably wonderful) Auden poem Funeral Blues that they read on Four Weddings and a Funeral all that time ago. Maybe even a hint of the sun in Wordsworth’s Composed Upon Westminster Bridge and Shakespeare’s Sonnet 18 thrown in for luck.

CC KUO

Ok, I know you’re probably a bit dubious now, ‘who compares clothes to poetry?’ you ask? Well, the sky is probably one of the most beautiful things that there is, and we, (or at least, I) with our heads in our laptops and our fingers on our keypads, don’t often take notice of those funny, fluffy white things up there or the beautiful yellow gassy lightblub that gives our daylight. Unless of course you’re a big Instagrammer, or it’s about to rain.

CC KUO

CC Kuo brings our attention back to nature. Born in Taiwan CC graduated from Central St Martins. Her signature digital prints and both beautiful and wearable, and her clothes have graced the catwalk at Vauxhall Fashion Scout which is swiftly becoming part of the initiation for young designers. She launched her namesake label in 2010 and since then she’s been featured by a whole army of mags and the like, including Elle, Pop and The Independent.

Whether it’s in the form of a handbag, a heel, a dress or a coat, what could be better than having your very own chunk of the world’s ceiling? With her S/S 2014 collection on the horizon I spoke to CC Kuo about her sunset patterned collection White Lovers, the recently released video to accompany it and what inspires her to make these pretty pieces.

CC KUO

Can you describe CC Kuo in just three words?
Modernism, simplicity and fantasy.

YouTube Preview Image
How did your video collaboration with Robert Rogan and Meng-Chia Lai come about?
I have been friends with Meng-Chia for a long long time since our CSM days and we’ve always talked about working together. My PR (and good friend) Roxanne suggested the idea of an illustrative film this season as a different format of expressing the collection. I thought this would be a good opportunity to work with Meng-Chia and she introduced me to Robert Rogan.

CCKuo
CC Kuo by Maya Beus

Your new A/W 2013 collection is named ‘White Lovers’ and lists swans as one of the inspirations, is this to do with the fact that swans mate for life?
Not in particular as I was more focusing on the contrasting elements within the collection. I didn’t know that swans mate for life but now I know, I love the fact they do.

CC KUO

When did you go on the trip to Lake Balaton in Hungary that inspired this collection?
I went to Hungary last winter. I am inspired by my trips abroad and often use this as an inspiration.

Water and trees are the backdrop of this collection, do you feel that nature and fashion can coexist?
Of course it does! Nature is so important to us as human beings and I hope to use fashion to better illustrate how beautiful nature is.

CC KUO 2 by Laura Hickman
CC Kuo by Laura Hickman

Your print designs are really distinctive, where do you get your inspiration?
I am inspired by everything I see, everything around me.

Is it important to you for your clothes to be wearable?
Yes, extremely important. I think clothing only makes its biggest impact when it’s wearable.

CC KUO

You’ve learnt from the likes of Alexander McQueen and Michiko Koshino, how do you feel this helped you develop as a designer?
My experiences working with these designers has taught me that discipline and passion are essential. Determination and a great work ethic is also a necessity.

CCKuo by Jordan Andrew Carter
CC Kuo by Jordan Andrew Carter

Your graduate collection was featured in Pop magazine, how does it feel to see your clothes featured in magazines?
Proud.

What draws you to opulent fabrics like silk and velvet?
For me, clothing should make women feel good about themselves, so I always use the best materials in a collection.

What projects do you have lined up for the next few months?
I am working on my next collection at the moment but also looking for a good collaborator to develop a diffusion line.

CC KUO

Do you feel like there’s a lot of pressure for each collection to be better than the last?
No, because I put in everything I can into each collection.

What’s your personal style?
I wear a lot of my own designs. I am very comfortable in my own skin.

CC KUO

Don’t be a chicken little, afraid that the sky is falling, grab a piece of it yourself by checking out the CC Kuo website www.cckuo.com

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bags, ,CC KUO, ,Central St Martins, ,Dresses, ,fashion, ,Hungary, ,illustrative film, ,Jordan Andrew Carter, ,Lake Balaton, ,Laura Hickman, ,Meng-Chia Lai, ,Michiko Koshino, ,nature, ,Pop magazin, ,Robert Rogan, ,sunsets, ,swans, ,trees, ,Velvet, ,wearable, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Kelly Goss, aka Rock ‘n’ Needle


Illustration by Pieter de Groot

When did you found Rock ‘n’ Needle and why? 
It was in 2008. I started designing and making clothes alongside studying at The Fashion Retail Academy. Although I was studying fashion retailing I still had a passion for making clothes. I wanted to design under a name and came up with Rock ‘n’ Needle. I started organising photoshoots in London through Model Mayhem and received a great response. This inspired me to develop the clothing into a brand. I took part in a fashion show in Mayfair which led to exhibiting at FaCshion exhibition. I really enjoyed taking part in these events and decided to set up the brand full time once I’d finished my course.  


What insires you, then?
I love tattoos, although I don’t have any! Tattoo designs work really well with embroidery and there’s so much inspiration from different styles. I am also inspired by music- I’m a huge rock fan, my favourite band being Motley Crue. I love musicians who have an extravagant and iconic image. I also enjoy seeing what’s happening on the streets. To me this is the biggest inspiration – to see what people are wearing now.



Photograph by Marta F. Andrés

How do you create these tattoo-tastic designs?
 I machine embroider all the designs. It starts with a drawing and develops on the computer until it is ready to be embroidered. There is a lot of sampling involved with the imagery. I use pretty basic fabrics for the clothing, using mainly cotton; the fabric needs to be suitable for embroidery. With the bows I can experiment a bit more, adding PVC, denim and all kinds of colours!  


Does your label consider the environment?
 Yes. Any material left over I try and create into the bows and brooches. I hate fabric waste, although it isn’t always easy to incorporate it into something new. I am currently in the process of re-designing the bags, for events such as Clothes Show Live. I’m also designing Rock ‘n’ Needle tote bags which will be available to buy online soon. They will have the embroidered designs on and will use environmentally-friendly cotton.  
 


Photograph by Ryan Bater

Which other designers or creatives do you admire?
My biggest admiration has been for Vivienne Westwood. I was absolutely delighted that Rock ‘n’ Needle’s first stockist was Ad Hoc on the Kings Road, near her iconic shop. The last couple of years I have been inspired by Henry Holland, who has exploded into the fashion industry – it’s really inspiring considering he started with slogan t-shirts and now has concessions Debenhams. To me, these designers have broken so many boundaries and to have such an incredible influence on people’s wardrobes. 


What has been your proudest moment so far?
 Last year I was delighted to win ‘VQ Young Learner of the Year’ for Wales: with over 500 entries it was a tough competition! I was nominated by Swansea College and the event took place at The Senedd in Cardiff with the Welsh Assembly Government. Most recently I was in the top 100 of future fashion retail leaders with Drapers Magazine. I entered the competition online and won a place at their Next Generation Academy in London, which was a one day event with industry experts. I felt honoured to be part of it. 
 

What did you get out of your time at the Next Generation Academy?
It was an invaluable day which covered a variety of topics including e-commerce, new technologies and self promotion. Henry Holland gave an interview which was a great insight for me as a designer. I met some lovely people from Success Appointments, and witnessed inspirational talks from Drapers ‘30 under 30′ feature. There was a lot of networking opportunities which was really useful as you don’t meet people as influential as this every day!


Illustration by Pieter de Groot

How do you see your collections developing in the future?
I will soon be introducing new-style tops comprising of short sleeved t-shirts and vests. I have also designed a couple of cropped tees for Summer. Next month Rock ‘n’ Needle tote bags will be available to buy, and this Winter I am launching Rock ‘n’ Needle hoodies which will carry the signature embroidered motifs. In the future I’d love to create Rock ‘n’ Needle jeans and lingerie, and maybe even menswear!
 


Do you have any other projects on the go?
Currently I am concentrating on developing the Rock ‘n’ Needle product range to expand from t-shirts and sweaters. I would love to collaborate with a fellow designer or musician/artist. I am extremely interested in the environment and animal welfare and I’d like to develop my work with these considerations. In the early stages of Rock ‘n’ Needle I have had to be fully focused on the brand, but I’m excited about broadening my scope in the future.


Photograph by Ryan Bater

What do you do in your spare time?!
 I don’t have much spare time at the moment as I’m exhibiting at Clothes Show Live London in June! There’s so much to prepare and I am launching new products which will be available to buy at the show, and then online on my website afterwards. When I do have spare time I love music and could quite happily spend hours on YouTube! I enjoy going to gigs, reading, going out for coffee and browsing in shops. Most recently I have been reading blogs – and I love Audrey Kitching’s. Her style is awesome and I always feel motivated to create when I have been reading her work!
 

I have to ask – would you ever get a tattoo?
Not in the near future, I love them but I couldn’t imagine picking a design and being happy with it for the rest of my life! I really like Fearne Cottons’ tattoos and I once worked with Ann French, who has some pretty cool ones, which can be seen in some of the Rock ‘n’ Needle pictures. I think you have to be quite a decisive person to have one and when it comes to what I wear or look like I am very indecisive.
  


Categories ,30 under 30, ,Ad Hoc, ,Ann French, ,Bags, ,Bows, ,Brooches, ,Clothes Show Live, ,Drapers, ,embroidery, ,Fearne Cotton, ,Henry Holland, ,Kelly Goss, ,Kings Road, ,london, ,Next Generation Academy, ,PVC, ,Rock ‘n’ Needle, ,Success Appointments, ,Swansea College, ,Tattoos, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,VQ Young Learner of the Year

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bath In Fashion; Bath, 23rd – 27th March

Ross Harrison, dosage Director and Writer of Beyond the Brink, unhealthy Illustration by Francesca Bourne

Beyond the Brink is young filmmaker Ross Harrison’s personal investigation into the debate on Climate Change. After feeling inundated by the media discussions in the lead up and fall out of Copenhagen, Ross set himself the task of answering the ever present question of “What is Climate Change” followed by the more provocative  “and does it really matter?” To help himself along his journey and to find out more about the current consensus on climate change Ross interviewed a selection of commentators and scientists from  David Attenbrough, Deepak Rughani, Mark Lynas, Dieter Helm to Dr Heike Schroeder.

Amelia’s Magazine interviewed Ross about why he decided to make this film, the impact the film has had in schools and what he now thinks needs to be achieved on a personal and governmental level to tackle the impact of Climate Change.

First things first, what inspired you to make a film that investigates the vast and divisive topic that is Climate Change?

Back in 2009, it seemed like an unavoidable issue – what with the media coverage building up to Copenhagen for nearly the whole year and films like The Age of Stupid being released. I also found the subject cropping up more and more in my school work.

Film Still from Beyond the Brink

What did you feel was missing from the discussion in the media or schools during the lead up to Cop 15 in 2009?

It seemed like a very polarized debate with no middle ground. I was frustrated by hearing the same arguments again and again bouncing between the same groups of people. I didn’t understand why people weren’t cooperating more to work towards a common goal. That hasn’t changed a great deal. Probably and most importantly I wanted to provide a young person’s perspective.

How has the film been received since its release? Has it been taken around schools in the UK?

Since I launched the website at the end of last year there has been a lot of positive feedback, which is encouraging. For the week of screenings I posted about 300 DVDs to schools, universities, community groups and individual volunteers. I’ve been along to some screenings myself, but because they’re all over the country it’s mainly teachers and students using the film themselves, which I’ve tried to make as easy as possible by releasing the film for free.

What -for you- were the most difficult aspects to making this film?

Weighing up the masses of information about climate change – articles, books, blogs, programs, interviews – and trying to filter that down into a documentary that was balanced, accessible and understandable was the first difficulty. The second was trying to think of ways of doing things differently, using different language, presenting the problem in a new way that might make it more inspiring.

Beyond the Brink contains a mixture of talking heads and personal narration, what lead you to construct the film in this way?

The talking heads are in there because I felt that was the best way to convey the experts’ viewpoints. The audience hears what I heard and can draw their own conclusions. I chose to feature myself because it was a very personal project and I wanted to include my slant as a teenager.

Was it particularly important to you that the film was released for free and under a creative commons license?

Definitely. My hope is for the film to get the widest audience possible and I think making it freely available should mean more people watch it that otherwise might.

Beyond the Brink Trailer


On reflection, since Cop 16 and the overshadowing of Climate Change in the media by the recession and the arrival of the coalition government, what do you think is next for the climate movement?

Cancun was not surprising – after such a flop at Copenhagen the officials involved were bound to be desperate to publicize some sort of success. Even so COP16 was a small step rather than the deal people had set their hopes on in 2009. I don’t want to rule out the UN process completely, but I think its limited real impact in the 19 years its been running, is a sign progress needs to be made elsewhere. Those involved in the climate movement need to be pressuring the governments of their own countries to lead by example. The discussion needs to move away from talking about climate catastrophe to selling the benefits of a clean energy infrastructure and low-carbon lifestyles. People are far more likely to be driven by an appealing goal than a danger that could affect them at some point in the future.

What did you learn during the making of the film that surprised you with regards to the debate on Climate Change?

A greater proportion of the scientific community than I realized think that humans are largely causing current climate change. A scientific debate about whether we are contributing to climate change doesn’t really exist anymore, it is widely assumed we are.

Sir David Attenborough by Abi Daker

Have you plans to follow up the film with further interviews?

No, although it’s something I may come back to at a later date, after I’ve finished working on distributing this film I’ll be looking to take on a new project.

How difficult did you find approaching the range of experts -from Sir David Attenborough to Deepak Rughani and Dr Heike Schroeader- that appear in Beyond the Brink?

It was certainly a challenge. Obviously the people I met know a massive amount about the subject, much more than I do, but you still have to research lots to be able to ask good questions. Thankfully all the interviewees were very approachable and generous with their time. Like many things, you get better at interviews with practice and in the end I was really pleased with the responses I had. That’s not to say there weren’t disappointments. Sometimes technical problems meant some of the best answers couldn’t be used.

How did the animations within the film develop and do you feel they were integral to explain a few of the ideas behind the causes of Climate Change?

Concepts like the greenhouse effect are difficult to explain at all, let alone with a strict time limit and so animations seemed like the best option. The problem is they take a long time to create. I’ve still got 100 paper Earths on my shelf that I traced from my computer screen.

Film Stills from Beyond the Brink

What fact or possible event as a cause of Climate Change shocked you the most during the making of this film?

I found that the number of species threatened by potential warming was really startling. One in four land animal and plant species could be threatened with extinction this century.

Which five environmental documentaries would you recommend everybody watches?

The Age of Stupid, The End of the Line, The Planet Earth series is brilliant and Planet Earth: The Future is a conservation focused companion series. The ‘Jungles’ episode of the recent Human Planet series.

What conclusions have you come to since Beyond the Brink was completed?

Being optimistic is important. Working towards a vision of a better world with a reliable renewable energy supply, full employment, smaller bills, and healthier lifestyles, has got a far greater chance of uniting the population than struggling to avoid a catastrophe. You don’t have to be an environmentalist to want those things. And working together is essential. In whatever situation people are taking action, by joining forces with their neighbours, friends, schoolmates or colleagues, they can make their voice much louder.

Film Still from Beyond the Brink

What policies would you like to see Governments world wide implement?

I’d like to see serious investment in green technologies, stricter regulation of energy industries, and policies that make it easier for individuals to reduce their carbon footprint. Channelling money into developing renewable energy and other green products can create jobs. On the one hand if our current energy system is replaced by a carbon neutral one then individuals will not have to make many changes, on the other, behavioral change is essential because we need to start appreciating almost all the resources we use are finite. One policy I think is especially urgent and needs to be implemented by some South American and Indonesian governments is strong protection of rainforests. The rate of deforestation is mind-blowing and can’t go on.

Dr Heike Schroeder by Sam Parr

“Are we really causing Climate Change and who cares?” (Question taken from Beyond the Brink’s website)

It is very likely we are changing the Earth’s climate by changing the composition of its atmosphere and this is a stance that the vast majority of climate scientists and scientific organizations around the world agree on, as far as I can tell. The implications are serious and everybody could be affected, but importantly the poorest people in the world who are less able to defend themselves against potential hazards are likely to be affected first.

Like many problems, climate change is easy to ignore and only a minority are taking action, even if a much larger number might say they are concerned. The next step must be to encourage changes that people want to see and which reduce our impact at the same time, like demanding cheaper, better public transport, or designing more energy efficient products. What really makes me hopeful, though, is education. I’m hopeful people my age will grow up with different attitudes to those of generations before.

After watching the film, what’s the next step for a viewer who would like to be engaged in the Climate Change debate?

Well, for a start the debate has largely moved from are we really causing climate change, to what’s the best way to minimize the impact we are very likely having. If someone wants more information, there are endless books and websites. The Rough Guide to Climate Change is particularly good. But be wary of blogs – it’s very easy for people to write anything they like and pretend to know more than they do.

In terms of getting involved, the best thing to do is join an existing network, of which there are many. There are so many organizations with basically the same aims I sometimes think if they all joined forces then they could really change things. If you’d call yourself young then check out the UK Youth Climate Coalition, some of whose members feature in the film. Other initiatives like 350 and 10:10 are building the movement, making it exciting and making an impact.


bath fashion by daria
Illustration by Daria Hlazatova

“No dear, viagra dosage I can’t sit there!” The older, polished and perfectly pronounced lady says. He tilts his head to the left, lightly bemused and replies: “You can look, plenty of spaces”. Then follows a warm, dismissing smile. She frowns: “No dear, there seem to be handbags on every single seat.” He puts his arm out and lightly touches her back, broadly smiling; “They’re goodie bags. For you.”, he says. “Oh goodness!” she exclaims. Bath in Fashion.

I was at the daytime show; two pm. It was tattering with excited ladies sipping wine and orange juice. The front row sat gracefully, if self consciously, and crossed their legs to the side. The lady behind me was rifling through the goodie bags on all the chairs, and the row in front was full of ‘Oooh, I say!’, as they saw, picked up and looked in the bags. Something I never saw at London Fashion Week, and I never felt I could do it, through the power of appearing nonchalant. But here we all were, in this beautiful room, the Octagon, cooing over Clarins. And there was a lovely atmosphere in the domed ceilinged venue. Bath is a stunning city, and unapologetically affluent. I often feel like I am entering a bubble when I go to Bath. Not necessarily aspirational, but certainly high above my own current living luxuries. For me sour dough bread and a saturday coffee out is a luxury. These ladies have bespoke kitchens – with SMEG fridges, four ovens and a wine collection – as standard. I don’t know this, but I know this.

Bath in Fashion

Most of the women here remind of when referring to my mum, as mum, feels wrong; she is mother. Mother wears, Whistles, Phase Eight, HOBBS – coincidentally like all the bags on the seats; target women. Although my mum doesn’t like being called mother, she has more to her than to be defined by these shops, and is far more friendly than ‘mother’ sounds. Just like these women here, they are relaxed, past the needs and issues that being young can hold claim to. They have lived more, seen more and have stories to tell. Which in fact many of them were doing; “I wore the most amazing things, Oh! Now, there’s that lovely boutique…” They were all very chatty with each other and talked enthusiastically about fashion and life. It all had a pleasant, relaxed feel.

Bath in Fashion

The show started with loud and vibrant music. The high street was paraded before of us, with pouting, sunglasses wearing models. They strutted stripes, flowers, maxi dresses, midi length skirt suits and colour pop! Camel, red, purple, chiffon, 30s maxi, 70s midi and maxi, little skirt suits and beautiful dresses. It was a gorgeous spring day outside, and the show made the buzz of spring streaming through thoughts, arrive firmly in the desires and excitement section of the audience’s minds. “Ooohs” and “ahhhs” were heard echoing quietly, as if we were watching a private little firework display of spring sensations. The dresses with the statement shoes were my favourite; glamorous light numbers, with red stillettos. Also block heels, headscarves and ballooning sleeves looked fresh and stylish. TOAST and Reiss stood out as particularly good this season, whilst Monsoon was flourished in the 70s trend. The fashions would certainly suit many a lady, and had just the right amount of pizazz. Kate Middleton should be wearing more of these styles. Safe but stylish, with an extra something.

Bath in Fash
A photo of the catwalk show that took place at the Roman Baths.

It was soon over and as we stood up to leave, everyone had a little natter. Eventually filing out I heard discussions of perhaps a spot of shopping, a coffee or a cool glass of white wine. I myself scooted off, back out of the bubble, but filled with the visions of beauty that Bath always leaves me with. Well done Bath In Fashion for a lovely week of events, fun and a genteel celebration of a sophisticated city. You can still see a couple of the fashion exhibitions for a while yet; Marilyn Monroe Exhibition at The American Museum in Britain, and a wedding dress exhibition at the Fashion Museum.

Categories ,American Museum in Britain, ,Banana Republic, ,Bath In Fashion, ,catwalk show, ,city, ,exhibition, ,fashion, ,Flamboyance, ,Georgian, ,Hobbs, ,Kate Middleton, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,Phase Eight, ,Roman Baths, ,Sophisticated, ,The Octagon, ,Wedding Dress, ,Whistles

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